Fuchsia Shock

CLEAR SKIES THE RAIN IN LOS ANGELES STOPPED JUST IN TIME FOR THE 86TH ACADEMY AWARDS, WHERE THE RED-CARPET FASHIONS RANGED FROM RED TO WHITE TO BLUE AND BLACK. FOR MORE ON THE OSCARS, SEE PAGES 21 TO 23.

SAID EYEING U.S. RETAILER Fast’s Global Ambitions Could Involve J. Crew

By EVAN CLARK

FAST RETAILING CO. LTD.’S Tadashi Yanai appears ready to spend big time in his drive to become the world’s largest fashion retailer — including up to $5 WWD billion to snap up J. Crew Group Inc. and bring on board his idol, Millard “Mickey” Drexler. Uniqlo-parent Fast Retailing is in talks to acquire J. MONDAY, MARCH 3, 2014 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Crew from owners TPG and Leonard Green & Partners, and should the talks go smoothly, a deal could be final- ized within the next two months, according to a source. Drexler himself would earn a major windfall — he owned 5.4 percent of the retailer in 2010, although sources say he may have increased his stake since then. A buyout would be a major coup for Yanai, chairman, president and chief executive officer of Fast Retailing. Long an admirer of Drexler, J. Crew’s Fuchsia chairman and ceo, Yanai borrowed much of the casual basics playbook the merchant developed during his years at Gap Inc. and used it to successfully march Uniqlo out across the world. J. Crew — which has dipped a toe in international markets but is still mostly raw potential abroad retail- wise — would give Fast Retailing a strong growth vehi- Shock cle globally and a solid foothold in the U.S., enabling it to better take on its rivals H&M, Gap and Inditex, parent of Zara. J. Crew has 330 stores, almost all in With a strong play on color and America, and saw revenues of $2.43 billion last year. impressive tailoring, Raf Simons But a sale to Fast Retailing isn’t the only option. J. Crew and its owners are also exploring an initial delivered his best Dior collection public offering with Goldman Sachs, which declined yet. Double dresses were a key look. to comment. The talks with Fast Retailing were first reported by The Wall Street Journal Friday. Simons worked them in bold contrasts A Fast Retailing spokesman in Tokyo declined like this short emerald silk crepe to comment, while Drexler could not be reached. underpinning topped Interestingly, the legendary retailer was in the Far East last month during New York Fashion Week and with a sturdy missed J. Crew’s seasonal presentation. It was un- fuchsia wool usual for Drexler to do so, since he generally uses layer slit FALL 2014 SEE PAGE 8 high and embroidered PARIS with a faux COLLECTIONS Nasty Gal Adds Execs, brooch. For more from Expands Collections Paris, see pages 10 to 19. By RACHEL STRUGATZ

NASTY GAL KEEPS growing up. The rapidly evolving online retailer continues to bolster its executive ranks and to add more product categories to its in-house designed collections. In another major step, the brand is planning the opening of its first brick-and-mortar store. The company, estimated to have sales close to $130 million last year, has brought on Sheree Waterson as president and chief product officer. Most recently, Waterson spent five years at Lululemon as chief product officer, a post she left shortly after the company’s high-profile recall in the spring of too-sheer yoga bot- toms. At Lululemon, she spearheaded supply chain, merchandise and design during a period where the company saw significant growth. “Lululemon did a really good job of managing that [the fabric issue]. They had a ton of changes of leader- ship — they have a new ceo,” Sophia Amoruso, Nasty Gal founder, chief executive officer and creative director, said of Waterson and her tenure at Lululemon. “She [Waterson] had a great run and she was there for five-and-a-half years and built an amazing business. I don’t look at much more than that.” Waterson fills a role that previously had been held by Deborah Benton, Nasty Gal’s chief operating officer and president, who left the company last month. Waterson is the latest addition to an executive team that now, as well as Amoruso, includes chief financial officer Robert Ross, who joined in December from Ideeli but had a 13-year stint at Urban Outfitters Inc., PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 6 T:21” T:13.875”

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Client: L’Oréal COS (0030005503) Document Name: IG_N14HC001D_05.indd Product: Advanced Hair Styling (HC) (0010022925) Document Path: ME Production:Volumes:ME Production:Loreal:HC:Newspaper:N14HC001_AdvancedHairCare:IG_ Job #: 10185309-1252-F0 N14HC001D_05.indd Print/Export Time: 2-20-2014 12:56 PM Font Family: Helvetica (Medium; Type 1; OK), Trade Gothic (Bold Condensed No. 20; Type 1; OK), Helvetica Neue (77 Bold Print Scale: 100% Condensed, 45 Light, Condensed Bold; Type 1, True Type; OK) User Name: erick.wilson Ink Name: CMYK Proof #: 5 Link Name: IG_9279MCN_ls_fin8_NP_v5.tif (CMYK; 710 ppi; Up to Date; 63.36%), IG_9016MCN_sleekB&W_ext_fin3_NP_ PM: Ralph Cirillo v4.tif (CMYK; 448 ppi; Up to Date; 140.42%), IG_SLEEK IT_Trio_v3_NP_v4.tif (CMYK; 638 ppi; Up to Date; 47%), Paris_R_ InDesign Version: CS6 KO_2-worth_PERIOD.ai (Up to Date; 73.85%) Slug Name: BEAUTY MagNwp 4 WWD MONDAY, MARCH 3, 2014 WWD.COM Old Navy Taps Sarah Holme THE BRIEFING BOX street in Shanghai’s downtown of the Old Navy business, repre- IN TODAY’S WWD By DAVID MOIN Jing’An District, the store’s senting an estimated 50 percent opening was celebrated in exu- of the volume. Most of Old Navy’s OLD NAVY HAS BROUGHT on berant fashion with perfor- shoppers are women, who also Sarah Holme as vice president mances from the University of buy the value chain’s men’s and of women’s design, a key role of Southern California’s drumline. kids’ merchandise. Paris Fashion Week heightened significance in light Old Navy is planning to open Holme previously was the cre- street style. For more, of the brand’s accelerating over- a total of ﬁve stores in China this ative director of U.K.-based Jack see WWD.com. seas expansion and development year, concentrating on Shanghai Wills, where she was instrumental of “a global collection.” for the time being, before testing in growing the brand in that coun- “Essentially, it’s one broad line the waters in other Chinese cities. try and bringing it to Asia and the that each of the countries selects In about a month, Old Navy U.S. Earlier, she worked at Laura from,” said Jill Stanton, the chain’s plans to launch a franchise busi- Ashley and Abercrombie & Fitch. executive vice president of global ness in the Philippines. Old Navy’s At Old Navy, she reports to product design and development, Asian expansion commenced with Stanton, who said that while describing the global collection. a pilot store in Japan in 2012. Last Holme’s arrival does not signal Old Navy’s first store in year marked Old Navy’s Asian ex- any major shift in the design direc- China opened Saturday on pansion in earnest, with about two tion, her skill set will be critical to Shanghai’s Nanjing West Road. dozen stores opening in Japan. Old Navy’s expansion. “She brings

Simultaneous with the opening, The brand sees 43 units operating a broader skill set. Instead of just DABROWSKI KUBA Old Navy, which is a 1,000-unit in Japan by the end of 2014. product design, she understands division of Gap Inc., launched a Outside the U.S., Old Navy brand building,” Stanton told PHOTO BY dedicated e-commerce site for operates in Canada and has an WWD. Stanton also cited Holme’s China. The plan is to open a total e-commerce presence in nearly expertise in textiles, colors, pat- of five stores in China in fiscal 80 countries. Last week, Gap Inc. terns and prints. Holme takes the 2014. Inclement weather didn’t chairman and chief executive of- job previously held by Lenard Japanese retailer Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. is looking to cement stop a crowd of umbrella-wield- ficer Glenn Murphy singled out Matias, who left the company. its position as a global retailer, chasing a $5 billion deal to buy ing shoppers from descending on Old Navy International as po- On the design front going for- J. Crew Group Inc. PAGE 1 the Shanghai flagship opening. tentially delivering among the ward, Stanton said Old Navy is “This is it! China is where the highest return on investment building up its assortment of Online retailer Nasty Gal continues to bolster its executive apparel growth is and bringing for the corporation, among the pixie pants, which have stretch ranks and add more product categories to its in-house designed Old Navy here is a central part retailer’s growth strategies. He and are a bit more dressed up collections. PAGE 1 of our global strategy,” Robert also singled out the potential of than jeans while still casual. She Frank, Old Navy’s executive vice the emerging Athleta division, also cited cropped pants as be- Old Navy has brought on Sarah Holme as vice president of president of international, said. creating a “seamless inventory” coming more important to the as- women’s design, a key role of heightened significance in light of “This is the hopping off point to and omnichannel initiatives. sortment, as well as maxidresses, the brand’s accelerating overseas expansion. PAGE 4 make it work for the rest of Asia.” Holme will head up all of Old linen, slub T-shirts and color.

Located on Nanjing West Navy’s women’s design, which — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS Advisers for Road, the premier shopping is considered the major driver FROM CASEY HALL Jos. A. Bank Clothiers Inc. and The Men’s Wearhouse Inc. are set to begin discussions regarding a

possible combination of the two chains. PAGE 6

NMG Upbeat for Spring Despite Q4 Headwinds Victoria Beckham has opened a 340-square foot shop-in- shop at Printemps in Paris. PAGE 6 NEIMAN MARCUS GROUP LTD. LLC, pushed to a are actually selling them. I think as the weather net loss in the last quarter by the sale of the company breaks customers will get back into the stores Bruce Oldfield will be holding trunk shows in New York at The last year, the weather and a data breach, is nonethe- quickly,” Katz said during a conference call. Mark hotel beginning Wednesday. PAGE 8 less heading into spring feeling upbeat about busi- She began the call by addressing the data secu- ness and the buying mood of its luxury customers. rity breach, and disclosing that the investigation Rihanna and Beth Ditto shared the front row for the second “Through the holiday season, we certainly found has determined that about 350,000 payment cards straight day at the Givenchy show in Paris on Sunday. PAGE 20 that our customer was definitely embracing luxury,” could have been exposed to the malware clandes- Karen Katz, president and chief executive officer’’ tinely installed on NMG’s system and designed to Coverage of the pre-Academy Award parties in California as of NMG, told WWD on Friday. “She is feeling good “scrape” payment card data from July 16, 2013 to nominees and other celebrities were getting prepared for the about her surroundings.” Oct. 30, 2013. Previously, Neiman’s reported that big night when the Oscars were handed out. PAGE 21 Product that’s “exciting and differentiated” is sell- about 1.1 million customer payment cards were ing, Katz noted, citing particular success with Tom potentially exposed to the malware. Katz said the Kate Moss made a showing at a party in Paris on Saturday number was greatly reduced because it was deter- Ford, Van Cleef & Arpels and Stefano Ricci, which hosted by French men’s monthly magazine Lui. PAGE 22 is sold exclusively at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf mined that the malware was not operating at all Goodman stores. Katz also cited strong response to NMG stores, nor was it operating every day in af- designer labels that reflect a “casual luxury” lifestyle fected stores from July to October. Of the 350,000 ON WWD.COM approach, such as Brunello Cucinelli and Moncler. payment cards that may have been affected, Visa, “It’s always been our emphasis to try to have MasterCard and Discover notified NMG that about THEY ARE WEARING: WWD went off the runways and onto differentiated product. It continues to be our goal. 9,200 were subsequently used fraudulently else- the streets and sidewalks for the best looks from Paris We are looking to enhance where, Katz said. She also Fashion Week. For more, see WWD.com. the number of luxury lifestyle said there is no indication brands to our assortment.” We are looking to that social security numbers Earlier Friday, NMG, and birth dates were com- CORRECTION which was acquired by Ares promised, or that Neiman Management LLC and Canada enhance the number of Marcus cards were used The Lanvin image on Thursday’s cover was photographed by Pension Plan Investment Board fraudulently, that any online Dominique Maître. in October, reported a net loss luxury lifestyle brands customers were impacted or of $68 million for the second that any PINs were at risk quarter ended Feb. 1 compared to our assortment. since Neiman’s does not use FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA with net earnings of $40.4 mil- PIN pads in stores. @ WWD.com/social lion in the prior-year period. — KAREN KATZ, NEIMAN Katz also cited progress Excluding purchase ac- on the emerging Last Call TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS MARCUS GROUP LTD. LLC [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. counting and certain trans- Studio stores, mentioning WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. action-related and other that six new ones will open COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. expenses, adjusted net earnings for the second in San Francisco, Chicago, New Orleans, Atlanta VOLUME 207, NO. 43. MONDAY, MARCH 3, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, quarter of fiscal year 2014 were $41.6 million, and Brooklyn, N.Y., within the next nine months, on and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance compared with adjusted net earnings of $56.4 mil- top of the six already operating. “We’ve been fine- Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, lion in the prior year. Among the expenses, the tuning the concept, adjusting size of store and mer- Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, company listed $53.2 million in transaction costs chandise assortment.” The company has learned and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West related to its takeover by Ares and CPPIB, $2.1 that Last Call Studio stores from 14,000 to 17,000 Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . 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If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever Neiman’s total revenues in the quarter came ing a new merchandising system that Katz described dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new to $1.43 billion compared with $1.36 billion in the as a “multiyear project to deliver a truly omnichan- subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please prior year. Comparable revenues increased 5.5 per- nel shopping experience.” Neiman’s also recently call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. 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Toll free:18004630849,[email protected] www.swarovski.com/professional TODAY’S PRODUCTS. TODAY’S Be inspiredbyournewshapes,colors, and effectsforSpring/Summer2015. For moreinformation,please contact: SWAROVSKI NORTH AMERICALTD. TOMORROW’S TOMORROW’S TRENDS FOR FOR TRENDS WE OFFER OFFER WE 6 WWD MONDAY, MARCH 3, 2014 WWD.COM Nasty Gal Grows Team, Products Men’s Retail Chains {Continued from page one} as a technology company first, The brand has started “tinker- Set to Talk About Deal and senior vice president, cre- and one with an active commu- ing” with lingerie, and will spend ative, Lina Kutsovskaya, who pre- nity online, she sees the stores more time on developing that $825 million bid to acquire viously was at Sephora and also as an opportunity to be a “next- category this year, according to By VICKI M. YOUNG Eddie Bauer Holdings Inc. joined the company in December. generation retail experience.” Amoruso. She’s also just brought from Golden Gate Capital. “I realized that there are only While several other pure- on a home buyer in preparation LET’S DEAL. A transaction at $65 a share a handful of brands — maybe play e-tailers have ventured into for the debut of lifestyle products Advisers for Jos. A. Bank would bring the total value two [handfuls] — that are ac- wholesaling — like Bonobos and on the site. “What does the Nasty Clothiers Inc. and The Men’s of a deal up to $1.8 billion. tually transforming the retail Warby Parker — Amoruso said Gal lifestyle look like in her Wearhouse Inc. are set to Shares of Jos. A. Bank space, and this is one of them,” this is not in the plan. “It’s not house?” Amoruso asked. begin discussions regarding continued their ascent Waterson told WWD on Friday, ‘hell no,’ but it’s not ‘yes,’” she When asked if she would a possible combination of Friday, rising 3 percent to her first day at Nasty Gal, consider licenses for the two chains. close at $62.08 in Nasdaq which is headquartered in categories like cosmet- Douglas Ewert, chief ex- trading, while shares of a 50,000-square-foot space ics and fragrance, she ecutive officer and presi- Men’s Wearhouse shot up in downtown Los Angeles. said: “Licensing can dent of Men’s Wearhouse, in 6.7 percent to $53.79 in Big For her, the fact that be tricky, but under a written response Friday to Board trading. the company began from Sheree’s guidance I’m the letter sent by Jos. A. Bank a pure vision (Amoruso open to it. But I would chairman Robert Wildrick started selling product out tread lightly.” a day earlier, said he would of her apartment on an A Nastygal.com. be returning a signed confi- $63.50 eBay store in 2006) is the au site for the brand’s dentiality agreement, with reason why it’s been able to Australian customers a few minor changes, to his become a young brand with will also launch in April. competitor as the first step PRICE PER SHARE OF JOS. A. “incredible margins that Amoruso maintained before discussions and due BANK CURRENTLY OFFERED created a new kind of space that the company isn’t diligence can begin. BY MEN’S WEARHOUSE. altogether.” Waterson attri- seeking further invest- He also said that Jos. butes this to strong product, The Nasty Gal Web site. ments. Nasty Gal has A. Bank’s preference for community engagement raised $49 million in a cash deal wouldn’t be a Investors seem to pre- and a large fan base — that all said, adding that it’s something funding to date from Series A and problem since that’s the fer a Jos. A. Bank deal in- started online. that could be explored in 2015. Series B rounds that took place same one Men’s Wearhouse volving Men’s Wearhouse Together, Amoruso and Nasty Gal has plenty on its in March and August 2012 from has envisioned. to one with Eddie Bauer. Waterson plan to open the first plate before the opening of Index Ventures. Ewert said his team will That’s a function of want- brick-and-mortar Nasty Gal store the brick-and-mortar store. In “They [investors] want you reach out to its counterpart ing the certainty of today in L.A. by year’s end. They are April, the company will launch most when you have the least time at Jos. A. Bank to set up a over the promise of tomor- shopping for retail space in the swim — its fourth in-house-de- for them, and that’s always a fun schedule for talks. row. It’s easier to determine area right now. signed category. Nastygal.com game to play. We’re not exploring The current Men’s Wear- the immediate synergies in “One of the benefits of being already carries swimwear from anything right now,” she said. house offer for Jos. A. Bank a combination with Men’s online first and now going into outside vendors, but this will be Amoruso added that, while is $63.50 a share, which Wearhouse, even though at retail is that we aren’t burdened the first time the design team there are no imminent plans Jos. A. Bank rejected, even some point the risk is how with the legacy systems that big will create swimsuits under the for an initial public offering, though it said it was open to to grow two already mature retailers have. They [other re- Nasty Gal label. Own-label foot- the team is always evaluating talks. Men’s Wearhouse said brands. With Eddie Bauer, tailers] are not going to know wear was introduced in August the business. “We’ve got a long it was willing to go as high the projections for gains are what hit them,” Amoruso confi- and Nasty Gal brand denim road of growth ahead of us. I am as $65 a share, subject to based merely on a presump- dently said of Nasty Gal’s evolu- and apparel in 2012. For 2013, up for whatever happens, but certain conditions, such as tion that the perceived early tion from brand to retailer. in-house product comprised 30 there’s nothing specifically in completion of due diligence turnaround of the chain will Because she built Nasty Gal percent of overall sales. the works,” she said. and Jos. A. Bank dropping its gain momentum.

every territory the same. My Victoria Beckham’s Corner of Paris customer wants quality, luxury. She wants to feel empowered, confident. She wants to feel her gleaming silver panels and with Spice Girl lived in Paris for a best,” she said. a low table for leather goods, good chunk of 2013 when her hus- Based in London, Beckham plus a wall niche for eyewear band, soccer star David Beckham, sells her collection in about — is her latest expansion in spent five months playing for the 60 countries, with the U.K. her Europe ahead of the fall open- Paris Saint-Germain team before strongest market, the U.S. in ing of a flagship on London’s retiring from professional sport. second and Asia third. Dover Street. “It sounds like an obvious While the latter two remain “My clothes sell very well thing to say, but the women here Beckham’s strategic priorities, here,” she said of Printemps, are very sophisticated and chic,” she said she would take her which also stocks her more she said. “I’m very excited to be time to grow on the Continent. affordable second brand — here during fashion week. Yo u “Every territory that we have Victoria, Victoria Beckham — in know the energy is incredible. It’s entered into is growing rapidly, its Maria Luisa area. “I’m very a beautiful, beautiful city. I love and I just want to do this the excited to have this space. I like the energy, the shopping. I loved right way. I don’t want to rush the way they buy.…This is like a living here.” anything,” she said. “The prod- Printemps’ stepping stone for me, and it’s Beckham described her aes- uct is selling very, very well Maria Luisa very exciting to reach out to my thetic as European, and said and when the retailer is selling Poumaillou and customer here in Paris and to her fashions are targeted at a product then they want to buy Paolo de Cesare have more product available.” global clientele. more. And nobody can argue with Victoria The designer and former “I like to treat women in with sales.” Beckham.

somewhat annoying.” By MILES SOCHA A good chunk of the designer floor at Printemps’ PARIS — Good luck keeping Boulevard Haussmann ﬂagship Victoria Beckham off the sell- — which houses brands such as ing floor — and out of the fitting Prada, Saint Laurent and The rooms — when she parachutes Row —was roped off for the in for a store event. meet-and-greet. “I just can’t help myself,” “I do lots of retail events, the English designer con- which aren’t press events. It’s fessed on Friday in Paris, me, meeting with my retail- where Printemps christened a er, getting in the fitting room 430-square-foot shop-in-shop with my customer, doing trunk for her signature brand in the shows,” Beckham said. “I really middle of fashion week here. have to get to know my customer “I always have to be very hands more and more and more to un- on because I have a very strong derstand what she wants so I can opinion of what I want. make sure that — yes, I am satis- “I always find something I fying myself fashion-wise — but want to change,” she continued, I’m giving her what she wants.” MURA FRANCK smiling sweetly and adding: Beckham’s space at The new Victoria Beckham shop-in-shop at Printemps in Paris.

“My attention to detail is totally Printemps — bordered in PHOTO BY

8 WWD MONDAY, MARCH 3, 2014 WWD.COM

Fast Retailing Setting Sights on J. Crew

{Continued from page one} being driven by Leonard Green, Tadashi laid the groundwork to open 100 the opportunity to meet senior which has a clause to get out of Yanai doors annually in China until it fashion editors and other retail- the investment after seven years has 1,000 stores in the market. ers, as well as to’’ do interviews but wanted to strike sooner, and Fast Retailing also owns the with the global fashion press. is mulling its options between a 375-door French fashion brand While other strategic play- buyout and an IPO. Comptoir des Cotonniers, as well ers and private equity firms are Uniqlo is growing in the U.S., as Princesse Tam Tam, Theory, said to be eyeing J. Crew, the with about 17 stores and hubs in GU and J Brand. Dealmaking is price Fast Retailing appears San Francisco and New York, a key part of Fast Retailing’s ex- willing to pay would seem to be and would certainly benefit pansion plans. The company ac- prohibitively high at about 13.5 from J. Crew’s intimate knowl- quired a stake in Link Theory in times adjusted earnings before edge of the market. Another 20 2003 and made an unsuccessful interest, taxes, depreciation and Uniqlo stores are expected to Millard play to buy Barneys New York amortization for 2013. That’s in a open in the U.S. this year. “Mickey” for $950 million in 2007. While market where 10 times EBITDA As for J. Crew, it would bene- Drexler Fast Retailing has been consid- is seen as a very healthy valua- fit from Fast Retailing’s interna- ering takeover targets in the U.S. and Europe, investment bankers A successful deal for J. Crew To keep pace with Yanai’s said its preference has been an would mark a major turning point ambitions, the retailer could use American retailer. We hope to become the biggest maker in Fast Retailing’s expansion and the sales shot in the arm J. Crew Bankers in the U.S. said would put the company, which would provide. As of January, Fast Fast Retailing has looked at and retailer in fashion. The dream will already has a strong presence in Retailing projected a sales in- teen retailers American Eagle Europe and Asia, on a truly global crease this fiscal year of 15.7 per- Outfitters Inc. and Aéropostale come true if we can grow our business footing. Only a handful of retail- cent — a growth rate that would Inc. as possible acquisition tar- ers — including Wal-Mart Stores more than double to more than gets. Last year, the company was Inc., Carrefour, Inditex and H&M 37 percent on a pro rata basis if J. also said to have made over- by at least 20 percent each year. — can claim to genuinely have a Crew were brought on board. tures to Gap Inc., although both worldwide empire of stores. Yanai clearly has a close companies denied the talks. — TADASHI YANAI, FAST RETAILING CO. LTD. Yanai made his global am- eye on the competition. Fast The company has noted, “The bitions clear in 2009, when Retailing’s Web site lists the objectives of our [mergers and tion and 12 times ranks as great. tional acumen and its resources, he laid out plans to grow Fast major global specialty apparel acquisition] activities are, first, Fast Retailing can afford the which would enable it to step up Retailing’s sales by 2020 to 5 retailers — and ranks itself to acquire businesses overseas

deal, though: As of August, it had its global expansion, especially trillion yen, more than $49 bil- fourth, behind Inditex, H&M and and in new markets to strength- STEVE EICHNER cash and cash equivalents of in the Far East. International lion at current exchange. Gap and just ahead of L Brands en our business platform. M&A 295.62 billion yen, or $3 billion. expansion is a major oppor- “We hope to become the big- Inc. and Ralph Lauren Corp. will enable us to expand our Drexler, who joined J. Crew tunity for the U.S. retailer, gest maker and retailer in fash- In Japan, where Fast retail store network and obtain in 2003, took the company public which currently has only three ion,” he said at the time. “The Retailing draws about 60 per- top-quality talent, even in new in 2006 in one of the most suc- stores outside North America, dream will come true if we can cent of its sales, Uniqlo still has markets. The second objective of cessful IPOs in retail history, and all in London. It has 10 stores grow our business by at least 20 the image of a discount retailer, our M&A activities is to acquire then took it private again four in Canada. The company last percent each year.” although it’s trying to re-brand brands with the potential for years later in a $3 billion deal month revealed plans to open For the year ended Aug. 31, itself as a more upmarket yet global development.” ’’ DOMINQUE MAÎTRE; DREXLER BY with TPG and Leonard Green. two stores in Hong Kong in May Fast Retailing’s sales rose 23.1 well-priced label with an em- J. Crew ticks off both of TPG took a majority of the re- as its first move into Asia. percent to 1.14 trillion yen, or phasis on basics, as well as tech- those boxes. tailer, while Green had a minor- Fast Retailing also could help $12.65 billion at average exchange. nologies such as its Heattech — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS ity. But sources said the talks J. Crew more quickly roll out its Profits jumped 26.1 percent to apparel that moderates body FROM VICKI M. YOUNG AND AMANDA KAISER in the Fast Retailing deal are other formats, including Madewell. 90.38 billion yen, or $1 billion. temperature. Uniqlo has also PHOTO BY TADASHI Oldfield Prepares to Take on New York For the first time in a decade things that flattered,” he said, add- By SAMANTHA CONTI — and after some tactful nag- ing that he thrives on the buzz of MIKE MARSLAND/ ging from his Stateside clients making women feel good with tac- CHOPARD LONDON — Bruce Oldfield has — Oldfield will be holding trunk tile fabrics and tricks “to conceal FOR been creating dresses for royals, shows in New York at The Mark all the bits you’re trying to con- actresses and the international hotel beginning Wednesday in a ceal, and making fabulous things.” IMAGES rich for nearly four decades, but bid to capitalize on a renewed Oldfield, whose evening nothing makes him wince like vigor in the market. dresses range from about 9,000 the words “couturier” or “fash- “Everybody I speak to who pounds to 15,000 pounds, or ion designer.” has knowledge of the U.S. busi- $15,000 to $25,000 at current ex- KEENAN/GETTY “I hate that word ‘couturier.’ ness says that in New York the change, will be taking orders for

I would rather be known as a women are ready to spend again. his winter collection in a pop-up STEFANIE TIM GRAHAM/GETTY IMAGES; MIRREN BY dressmaker, or a dress designer. I And they are spending,” said the showroom at The Mark. BY don’t want to be a fashion design- designer, who’s dressed in luxe On Thursday, he plans to er because I don’t do fashion. We street style: black, tailor-made do a Q&A at Parsons The New leave that to other people,” said cashmere blazer, an old Vince School for Design with Kyle KARDASHIAN Oldfield, 63, from his small ate- hoodie, dark Zegna trousers and Farmer, one of his former assis- lier on Beauchamp Place, where white Marc Jacobs sneakers. tants, who is now an associate he’s had a shop since 1984. Oldfield said New Yorkers professor there. WIREIMAGE; PRINCESS DIANA PHOTO BY “I design clothes, proper get his straightforward ap- Even at 63, Oldfield remains Princess Diana, Helen Mirren and Kim Kardashian in Oldfield designs. clothes, for proper occasions. proach to design. wide-eyed about the poten- That’s where my business is. I “I do clothes you don’t have tial America offers: “Oh, to be began attracting big-name cli- Khan, Queen Rania of Jordan don’t do ready-to-wear, it’s all to intellectually play with be- in America. We always used to ents such as Charlotte Rampling. and a host of Middle Eastern made-to-measure. I’m like a cause I’ve never seen the point think, you know, that being in He famously began dressing royals, while Sienna Miller, Savile Row tailor — except I pro- in it. When I was at Central Saint Europe is fantastic because we Lady Diana Spencer in 1980 Rihanna, Taylor Swift, Kim duce new designs twice a year.” Martins, we were trained to cut were kind of independent in a even before her marriage to Kardashian and Kelly Brook way. Look at Michael Kors. He’s Prince Charles, and continued have all worn his dresses. reached a billion in his own per- to whip up her power suits and And while Oldfield is stick- Bruce sonal wealth. It’s extraordinary. lush evening gowns until the ing with couture, he remains at- Oldfield Here, to make a business in any end of the decade. tracted to the mass market. way successful, you really have In 2011, having already made The sole owner of his busi- to take it out of this country.” many a royal and socialite’s ness, the designer said he loves Oldfield graduated from bridal outfit, Oldfield was widely watching “likes” ping onto his Central Saint Martins in 1973, tipped to be the designer of Kate brand’s Facebook page, and and later that year showed his Middleton’s dress, which was said he’s in talks with a few collection at Henri Bendel, hav- eventually made by Sarah Burton, high-street retailers regarding a ing been invited by its president creative director at Alexander potential collaboration for 2015, Geraldine Stutz, the woman who McQueen. Asked if he’s made which is also the 40th anniver- famously transformed the store anything for the Duchess of sary of the company. into a hub for designer brands. Cambridge, Oldfield said with a “It would have to be the right Oldfield established his busi- cheeky smile, “Not yet.” high-street store, so we can pro- ness in 1975, selling rtw on both Over the years, he’s cre- duce something that has the sides of the Atlantic. In 1978, ated one-off designs for cli- quality. I mean, if it’s good qual- TIM JENKINS he added couture, and became ents including the Duchess of ity and it’s, say, 190 pounds [$317 known for his clean lines, embel- Cornwall, Britain’s First Lady at current exchange], then I’m

PHOTO BY lishment and embroidery, and Samantha Cameron, Jemima happy with it,” he said. PURE 50 Wolford’s InnovatIon of the season

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Dior: Raf Simons has arrived at Dior. After a period of polite, Dior Comme des Garçons often lovely and sometimes uncomfortable homage, for fall, Simons started to put his mark on the house in no uncertain terms. It was a necessary move that signaled Dior’s willingness to temper New Look worship with real-world pragmatism. “When you take a position at a heritage house, you also think about your whole situation and your own position,” he said before the show. “What you stand for, what you believe in and what you express naturally and how you can add that to the world you’re representing.” Simons was probably smart to transition into that process, using his earlier collections to prove his respect for and command of the house history and codes. That accomplished, this collection was his strongest yet for the label. This time, he led his Dior woman from spring’s dense, mysterious garden to more urban enclaves, represented by the “electric flowering” of creative, color- changing ceiling lighting. That meant all kinds of situational clothes, including a situation designers seldom reference when discussing their runway fare — work. Impressive tailoring was rendered succinctly — a lean pantsuit in burgundy flannel — or in masculine-feminine opposition as in a double- breasted jacket over a short, fluid dress. And yes, there were coats. Simons turned classics into statements by adding saucy corsetlike lacing up the sides, and tinged a gorgeous gray astrakhan with shots of lilac. Though his sleeveless minks made a snappy styling ruse tossed over the right arms of girls in jackets, one longed to see at least one of them on, especially as they came in exuberant yellow and green. Too often in his color plays, Simons worked in the brights- with-black genre, which at times swung mundane. Not so the bolder pairings that recalled the designer’s heady Jil Sander days. Double dresses paired a sturdy layer cut for ease over a short, racy underpinning, the former slit high up one thigh and left free to fly open despite an embroidered faux brooch. In fuchsia wool over emerald crepe and yellow over pale pink, these played like enchanting, postmodern cotillion dresses. And speaking of enchantment, evening dazzled with long, embroidered tank and T-shirt dresses worn over T-shirts. A fabulous way for a young woman to dress up — and dress her age.

Comme des Garçons: Oh, that Rei! Backstage, where everyone runs postshow to get her seasonal deep-thought words (or in this case, word) Paris Collect to grasp on to, she offered the frightful, “Monster.” To wit, Kawakubo’s green- lipped models plodded by ominously trancelike, arms bound and faces sometimes obscured, encased in piles, shed a little more light on the that could be ugly or beautiful.” his/her inner Rei — that’s the may be passionate in her piles and more piles of thick, motif. “It’s not about the typical Genuinely deep thoughts, last thing a monthlong fashion exploration of the convergence undulating padded knits (and monster you find in sci-fi and realized to perfection: crazy — season needs. We do need the of ugly and beautiful, we might the occasional ill-fitting but video games,” she wrote. “The check. Beyond common sense — occasional flight of the ordinary be amused. Dare we tell her natty Prince of Wales check), craziness of humanity, the check. Absence of ordinariness delivered by someone who that her knit-one/purl-two their bodies mere foundation fear we all have, the feeling of — double-check, and hundreds has earned the right to send gyrations are perversely on for lumpy, bumpy, misshapen going beyond common sense, of shows into the season, it packing. Along the way, we trend? That there’s a word for masses of woolen darkness and the absence of ordinariness, Godspeed. Not, by the way, that might be thrilled, outraged, a collection built on a base of multiple sleeves. expressed by something anyone wants everyone with awed, annoyed — so be it. stretchy catsuits with a dash In show notes, Kawakubo extremely big, by something runway clearance to unleash This fall, though Kawakubo of cropped tops and naughty WWD MONDAY, MARCH 3, 2014 11 WWD.COM

print dress with beautiful Givenchy Céline butterfly wing motifs on the bust, and a butterfly print blouse with a ruffle in the outline of a heart on the chest. As an aggressive contrast to the flou, many of the soft blouses had stark, linear strips across the shoulder blades. Similar strips and panels — Bauhaus-inspired, according to Tisci — recurred throughout the show, adding potent strokes of color and geometry to his modernist riffs on knit twinsets and tailoring cut with a Forties masculine allure. For example, pale pink strips flanked the hips of charcoal high-waisted trousers worn with a cropped double-breasted jacket. The palette deepened and brightened throughout the show on abstract butterfly and snake motifs, leathers and opulent furs which included stunning blonds, deep browns and extravagant printed leopard spots. The show culminated on a darkly seductive note: lean gowns with fitted shell-like tops and black pleated skirts. Mariacarla Boscono’s bodice was fully embroidered in a rainbow of three-dimensional crystals and paillettes; Kendall Jenner’s was molded in purple snakeskin with a butterfly crystal neckline. She looked all grown-up.

Céline: Phoebe Philo’s professional raison d’être has always been about finding practical solutions to real-life wardrobe concerns. Typically, she has tackled the question of what women need and want, and come up with a clear, finely honed seasonal message. For fall, she seemed to take on another sartorial concern: what her stores need and want. Judging from this collection, they want diversity, as this was as wide-ranging a Céline lineup as Philo has ever shown. She started with a lady moment worked with a proverbial Phoebe twist: fit- and-flare coats with off-beat button treatments; for example, a double-breasted closure with three buttons on one side and six on the other, the latter forming an obtuse angle rather than a row. That ruse continued with portrait collar tops tucked into wide-legged trousers. This FOR MORE REVIEWS established a subtle retro vibe AND IMAGES, SEE that wafted in and out. There was a strong lineup WWD.COM/ of coats, the most striking a runway. glamorous large-collared camel number cinched with a wide fur belt. It also established via button treatments the notion of asymmetry, with some intriguing off-kilter cuts. Both directions proved interesting. Ye t except for her coats, Philo seemed THE WEEKEND SHOWS ABOUNDED WITH disinterested in working through her proposals. She touched on PRECISE TAILORING, INVENTIVE FURS AND great-looking sweater dressing, the occasional athletic reference WHIMSICAL RIFFS ON KNITWEAR. GIANNONI tions and some arty touches such as fraying-edge fringe. Along the

GIOVANNI way, she made some peculiar BY choices. Why, for example, a passing nod to blue gingham

PHOTOS two seasons after Miuccia Prada made such glorious use of the sparkle panties — sexy? Or different people. In fashion it’s traditional while layering on with this woman who is feeling fabric? And you can turn an maybe we should thank her for usually code for clothes for a fantasy, modernity and loads more like a woman.” elbow slit vertical, but it still sending a message of sartorial mature audience in silhouettes of luxury. There were furs and He created a tension between belongs to Helmut Lang. tolerance: Monsters are just that stem from the traditional. they were fabulous. rich romance and powerful Such elements might have like the rest of us. In the throes Proper wife, mother and lady “The collection is about tailoring, opening with the been developed and taken of a bleak winter, they want to stuff, but with a tinge of desire. celebrating femininity and the former on wispy, buttoned-up somewhere, but instead Philo feel cozy, too. Riccardo Tisci redeﬁned rock woman,” said Tisci after the silk blouses and skirts with soft delivered a fashion pastiche this premise with his incredible show. “I’ve been doing the kind of pleats and tucks. Increasingly that lacked cohesion while Givenchy: Womanly. The word fall collection, amplifying the young and more street look for so dreamy incarnations of that still managing to deliver plenty means different things to sensuality and subverting the long, and I wanted to experiment silhouette came in a leopard- of chic.

14 WWD monday, march 3, 2014

Haider Ackermann Yohji Yamamoto Chloé

FALL 2014 PARIS COLLECTIONS

Haider Ackermann: Challenging top and wide trousers under gentleness within a men’s- — evoking the bleak softness the Chloé girl” for fall. In fact, fashion — in the home stretch a matching coat, the look’s inspired framework while that has defined some of the collection held steady with of fall 2014, it’s fair to say the linear-but-loose, floor-sweeping simplifying the clothes without Yamamoto’s best collections. the calmly desirable aesthetic season could use more of it. proportions establishing the very losing himself in the process. Then the exaggerated black she has honed since her arrival Haider Ackermann specific template for what was Ye t surface simplicity should coats became startling canvases at Chloé. challenges. He challenges to come: funnel-neck dresses, not be confused with easy. His for bold illustrations by artist The designer heeded the call himself, he challenges us, jumpsuits, coat-over-pants clothes radiated a grandeur — Yasuto Sasada, who also of the wild by plying her pretty he challenges his customers. looks, all in mannish, winter- hauteur, even — antithetical collaborated on Yamamoto’s tomboy baseline with colorful This time, he sought to “find weight fabrics and completely to much of current fashion most recent men’s collection. geometric prints, fuzzy fringed a kind of gracefulness in the unadorned by anything other and lifestyle and intended The wild collisions of imagery textures and animal motifs that masculinity,” he said after his than the occasional texture of a for women unafraid of the included painted faces, koi, produced some nice outerwear show. “It’s complicated, because graphic houndstooth. subversive side of timeless chic. angry bears with voluptuous such as a fierce, shaggy fur masculine is about force and Breaking up this stark, Challenging indeed. lips and tongues, splatter paint coat in leopard spots spliced about strength, and I was trying tailored polish, sportier looks and jewels. They summoned with red, black, yellow and to find this kind of delicateness were anchored by hoodies Yohji Yamamoto: Witness the the psychedelic, manga, graffiti orange stripes. A big coat with and gracefulness. And a certain and bombers that, under power of the puffer jacket in and, in the case of giant florals a generous fold-over collar was simplicity as well.” Ackermann’s care, took on the hands of Yohji Yamamoto, linked by chains, vintage done in spongy ivory jacquard On the last point, the change newfound toniness. One who elevated that most banal Versace. Some were prints, with a yellow-and-black was dramatic — and not without featured a sleeveless man- staple of cold-weather sportif to others were hand-painted on pattern. The most emboldened commercial significance. Over tailored vest over fur jacket conceptual fashion with his fall thick leather jackets and skirts graphic moment came via the the past couple of seasons, over hoodie in a masterful collection, using it to convey and noble robes that evoked the demonstrative gold geometric Ackermann has decreased take on layering that managed two very different, visually spirit of street royalty. hardware — circles, squares the signature complications not to turn bulky. With these arresting moods. and zigzags — on a black skirt of his clothes, tempering but looks, Ackermann varied his He began with plain black Chloé: Things are going very and tunic dress. not eliminating the wraps, silhouette, at times cinching in extreme volumes, cutting well for Clare Waight Keller at Ye t the statement coats drapes, pilings and floating the waist with a wide belt and grand, robelike silhouettes Chloé. After a series of trial- and decorative effects were appendages. Here: gone. Nary a replacing the full-cut trousers out of what was basically a and-error runs with designers, outnumbered by moments of chiffon floater in sight. In their with skinny alternatives. down comforter. The shapes the house has stabilized tranquil femininity with a sporty place: tone-on-tone silhouettes As for the challenging were beautiful and strange — under Waight Keller, who said attitude. Sweatshirts, blanket flush with the power of plain. aspect, Ackermann achieved some were padded to give the she wanted to mine a “more coats and fluttery silk dresses He opened with a gray flannel his desired fusion of masculine illusion of a pregnant belly mysterious and wilder side of were worked in mild shades

w03a014(15)a.indd 1 3/2/14 6:20 PM 03022014182302 WWD MONDAY, MARCH 3, 2014 15 WWD.COM

Jean Paul Gaultier Akris Sonia Rykiel

FOR MORE REVIEWS AND IMAGES, SEE

WWD.COM/ GIANNONI runway. GIOVANNI BY PHOTOS of ivory, beige and powdery by age demographics — had to a fictional space odyssey with georgette dress in red, and a media outlets that cover the purple. Some of the best looks go through an amusing security JPG as pilot. variation in green, featured Victoria Secret model’s every were updates on the classic check. The clothes reflected the an abstract Ruff Photogram move. Ye t this wasn’t the main Chloé ivory crepe blouse, as theme. Rendered in interesting Akris: Ten years ago, Akris left its print, for example, while night act of savvy this season. well as dresses and loose, long techy materials, there were St. Gallen nest for the big stage images of German homes graced Designer Geraldo da culottes with graceful triangle metallic flight and moto jackets, that is Paris Fashion Week. coats and dresses in a moody Conceicao worked the house and circle lace insets. padded pants and skirts, During that time, the Swiss interplay of architecture and aesthetic and knit base with a zippered sweaters with silver house grew on a global scale, silhouette. Less commercial fresh polish. He opened with a Jean Paul Gaultier: Ready for insets, and shimmery jumpsuits. impressively so, especially in were LED-equipped pieces clear homage to Rykiel herself: takeoff? Jean Paul Gaultier Many pieces were marked by the U.S. including a coat, pants and three a fur vest shown with a knit top, certainly was as he embarked cocoon shoulder treatments; the On Sunday evening, Albert dresses that, when lit, read like layered over a skirt and cropped on another campy trip, this time more sculptural ones had hints Kriemler marked this moment a starry night. pants and finished with platform to space. On Saturday night, the of Courrèges and Cardin. with one of his strongest When he wasn’t referencing shoes. Its sophistication should designer showed a retro-futuristic The look worked best collections to date. It featured art, Kriemler worked a appeal to Rykiel devotees, some lineup that while sometimes when slightly softened. A a striking collaboration with sophisticated vibe with great furs of whom have moved away from outshone by the theatrics, leather slipdress, for example, Thomas Ruff, inspired by an and crisp looks including a white the brand in recent seasons, as demonstrated he still has his own came with a chiffon overlay exhibition on the German artist double-face wool A-line dress well as new clients. perspective on Planet Fashion. embellished with crystal stones. he saw in Munich two years with a plunging neckline, a chic The innovative knits also Gaultier chose the modernist It was sexy, even a bit sensual ago. “I thought it had to be gray alpaca parka shown over impressed, from waffle textures Espace Oscar Niemeyer — the — in a galactic way. something special,” Kriemler a knitted top and red silk faille to luxe velour jersey numbers French Communist party’s Halfway through the show, said before the show, referring skirt and a black mink patchwork that read Ultrasuede, such as base — as the venue, which was the designer took a space walk to the milestone. “When I coat. These pieces had on the paneled V-neck dress swathed in green lights. Some into punk with Mohawked got my thoughts together in modernity and ease — a winning with a Seventies ease. guests, including Rihanna and women, men and children in November, I just called him to combination sure to help fuel A few of the looks had extra Beth Ditto, were seated under tartans and Union Jacks. see if he was ready.” Akris’ next decade in Paris. charm. A “Moi” logo added an an impressive dome at long The overall takeaway: The designer selected exaggerated whimsy to tops desks that were primed for Austin Powers meets Sid images from five of Ruff ’s Sonia Rykiel: Miranda Kerr and pants, while graphic rose politburo committee meetings. Vicious. A disconnect, yes, but series — among them “Stars,” opened and closed the Sonia patterns on knitted coats and Before stepping onto the perhaps deliberately so. After “Nights” and “ma.r.s.” — and Rykiel show — a smart move, as separates, some in lovely black- runway and boarding Spaceship all, one of the few places the used them as the base for motifs it’s sure to give the brand much and-navy combos, bolstered the Jean Paul, each model — cast two could coexist would be on and embroideries. A sweet silk play in the tabloids and social collection’s chic attitude. 16 WWD monday, march 3, 2014

Viktor & Rolf: One of the best fashion-related New Yorker Viktor & Rolf FALL 2014 Maison John Galliano cartoons ever depicts a smiling Martin department-store saleswoman PARIS Margiela holding up a sweater and telling the customer: “It comes COLLECTIONS in midnight gray, charcoal gray, slate gray and gray.” You’d be hard-pressed to find two more enthusiastic cheerleaders for gray than Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, who not only decorated their new Paris flagship entirely in charcoal felt but also dedicated their fall Viktor & Rolf collection to the gray mélange knit V-neck sweater. It didn’t lend itself to the most riveting production values, and the dirgelike guitar plucking and wailings of Joan As Policewoman — who performed a torch-song version of “Highway to Hell” on a two- lane set dotted with streetlights — didn’t help. Ye t as forlorn as a gray V-neck might be, the Dutch duo turned out some peppy interpretations, from the blanket-esque smock and tank dresses that opened the show to the bedazzled sweaters with asymmetric peplums similar to ones they showed in latex during couture. Abstractions on the sweater were often striking, particularly V-necks as trompe l’oeil prints on velvet tops. Free-floating panels of gray felt on georgette were arranged to mimic twinsets — a nifty effect. There were flashes of sky blue and orange, plus a groovy white mesh minidress fronted with knit panels and a strip of crystal embroidery. A longer version of the latter style also came in gray.

Maison Martin Margiela: Those four telltale white stitches, signifiers of Maison Martin Margiela, have company next season: The Harris Tweed label occupies prime real estate on the exterior of trim overcoats and peak- shouldered jackets that underpinned a charming, borderline chaste collection. The show had the relaxed, friendly feel of a Sunday stroll. Cue the park-bench seating and the grandparent-friendly fabrics, including brown herringbones and plaids, tea-stained curtain lace and pajama-striped cotton. The Margiela edge came seem more of the moment. another Chalayan specialty, wild at heart and weird on top,” an infusion of luxe textures, through in the tailoring: Copper zippers traced a but here, the loose proportions and cited creatively titled color strong colors and ample fun. nipped waists and hunched biker-jacket line on a princess drooped on generously cut schemes such as “Wild Lula He started with several shoulders, and sculptural coat while rectangular crystals tailoring and scarf dresses. Lime” and “Midnight Dorothy.” sophisticated dresses, sleeves that resembled winked from the seams of a Wild and weird graphic including one black style apostrophes viewed from the sculpted siren gown. Kenzo: Because David Lynch patterns such as zigzags with a sculptured bodice — side. Grandpa’s pants, hitched The show was a no-frills automatically makes things and undulating lines in its plunging neckline held over the bosom, became a affair, but it pointed to a cooler, weirder and generally bold colors were delivered together with a graphic quirky bustier. fruitful path for Gaytten to more interesting than they on sharp tailoring and metal clasp — and a sheer Aran and Norwegian continue following. would be otherwise, Humberto voluminous coats. Wearing a plissé skirt. Some languid sweaters were sculpted like Leon and Carol Lim had him full skirt over a trim, printed pieces featured cascading Medieval armor, and didn’t Chalayan: With every Hussein do the music and set for their suit is silly, but the look hems: a tricky proposition, need stitches or labels to read Chalayan show comes the fall Kenzo show. The Lynchian emphasized the collection’s though Gn rendered it with a as cool. expectation of the conceptual. special effects included a clash of patterns and romantic vibe. For fall, it was a trio of sheer sculpture of a creepy, dead, proportions. Within the visual The designer’s surface John Galliano: With his fall dresses embroidered with grids baby-ish head surrounded by a onslaught, the clingy knits details were particularly collection, Bill Gaytten etched of fake fingernails, two done film screen projecting smoke, done in bold intarsias and interesting. There were the brand’s retro, romantic in graphic black-and-white a snappy American soundtrack foiled embroideries stood out. Baroque appliqués on several legacy with a light hand while manicures, and one in classic and an extra-narrow runway shift styles, and snakeskin asserting his penchant for pinks, reds and black. The ruse that wound through the Andrew Gn: Tina Chow and insets on chic Ikat pencil modernism. He also went played out on layered gowns audience and allowed for Yayoi Kusama, Andrew Gn’s skirts. The latter worked for a dressier, ladylike look with slashes down the front extreme, up-close viewing of two muses this season, may best when shown with a heightened by elbow-length that could have been the work the clothes — points for Lynch not have a lot in common green sweater featuring a gloves and sweetheart necklines. of a sharp set of claws. If not on that front. sartorially, but the two Japanese mangalike patchwork Fit-and-flare dresses and his most intellectual or visually The collection had a strong coexisted effortlessly on the robot, the collection’s main taut peplum jackets with compelling gambit, the nails point of view, though its ties designer’s fall runway. visual motif. It balanced the demonstrative fur collars made for an imaginative moment to the director’s body of work One was strikingly cool, whimsical with the chic just- nodded to the Fifties, though the in a collection otherwise focused were tenuous, boiling down to the other artfully eccentric. so, and ultimately became lustrous and scuba-type fabrics on draped daywear. the language in the show notes, Together, the mix elevated Gn’s most effective fusion of and embellishments made them Languid constructions are which read, “The whole world is Gn’s ladylike leanings with Kusama and Chow.

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Chalayan Kenzo Andrew Gn Maxime Simoens

Maison Ter et Bantine Rabih Kayrouz

FOR MORE REVIEWS AND IMAGES, SEE WWD.COM/ runway.

Maxime Simoens: Add film buff Maison Rabih Kayrouz: Rabih Ter et Bantine: Manuela Maxime Simoens to the list Kayrouz celebrated his hybrid Arcari’s delicately of designers looking to the culture — one foot in his conceptual yet highly final frontier for inspiration: native Lebanon, the other in wearable Ter et Bantine He name-checked the Oscar his adoptive Paris — with a collection let off a peaceful, contender “Gravity” backstage. collection that took its cues Far Eastern vibe. The There were hints of Sixties from the hamam. designer used sensual brands like Courrèges in his Gingham-patterned silk or kimono wrappings on lean boxy “space cadet” tailoring cream fringed cashmere were bathrobelike overcoats, and short shift dresses banded draped loosely around the while her quilted jacquard with fur or crystals. body for dresses inspired by jackets riffed on cocoon-ish The theme mainly bath towels, while nubby coats Tibetan sheaths. Patches influenced surface decoration looked as inviting as robes. of Mongolian longhair on body-con pants, pencil Kayrouz drew inspiration placed around the waist skirts and cocktail dresses. from a burnoose to create of softly tailored trousers Laser-cut rabbit fur was chic hooded jackets, including and nonchalantly across a meant to mimic lunar one in a vintage quilted gold T-shirt’s shoulder further fed landscapes; silver glitter, brocade, and ample dresses into the Asian theme. MAÎTRE Lurex and sequins gave a with oversize pockets. Elsewhere, interesting night-sky aspect to the sexy, A long navy dress, evening options came in showy clothes. meanwhile, featured panels the form of tops: bare- DOMINIQUE

While his day and cocktail draped over the shoulders and shouldered turtlenecks AND clothes could use more knotted in front — Kayrouz and lightly draped bustiers youthful verve, Simoens has dubbed it his “hug” dress. that Arcari paired with scored on the red carpet, “With this collection, I really either slouchy wool pants or GIANNONI having recently dressed the wanted to show the Orient of midcalf skirts and leggings. likes of Bérénice Bejo, Léa the ﬁve senses,” the designer Done in black on black with GIOVANNI Seydoux and Rachel McAdams said backstage. “So you see occasional touches of cream BY on the festival and awards something, you smell it, you and brown, this collection had circuits. Stargazing, indeed. touch it, you live with it.” an air of calm chic. PHOTOS 18 WWD monday, march 3, 2014

Junya Watanabe: After last season’s high-energy trip to Native Americana, Junya Watanabe explored a Junya Watanabe Isabel Marant darker, more romantic spirit for fall — beautifully so, with clothes that showed off the designer’s strong workmanship. Watanabe stuck almost entirely to black — one exception was a white patchwork sweater — and made a statement with impressive cutting techniques. Most notably, he worked a circular pattern as a base to build upon. For example, tailored coats and jackets, ponchos and tops were constructed from fabrics in round shapes seamed together, mapped over one another and artfully bunched to add volume. These looks could have been tricky, but Watanabe demonstrated just enough restraint for unexpected lightness, almost like a whipped-up confection. When teamed with cropped pants decked out in black sequins, the effect mesmerized. The outerwear particularly stood out; the best looks included a coolly deconstructed toggle coat and a moto jacket with voluminous patchwork sleeves. Ye t it wasn’t all soft fare. Some pieces — like the formfitting shiny puffer coats and the languid ribbon dresses that ended the show — read sinister. Dark indeed, and with ample allure.

Isabel Marant: There was a noticeable shift on Isabel Marant’s fall runway, where the designer did more than just hit “refresh” on her same-old look of a fitted jacket with pronounced shoulders tossed over skinny pants or a flimsy, flirty dress. She was due for a change. It felt good. Instead of playing a one-note theme, Marant sampled several tomboy aesthetics: a cozy nomadic look, sulky military grunge and urban androgyny — all laced with a little glamour. An oversize black-and- white sweater with a tribal graphic was worn with a short wrap skirt and laced fur booties. A great tweed robe coat came over a chunky moss-green sweater and sequined skirt. The collection felt much more substantial than recent seasons, with a heightened design quotient including a new proportion for pants: wide and slouchy with a high, paper-bag waist. Marant didn’t abandon her signatures — the sharp shoulder jackets and leather rocker pants remained — but she took risks to balance the reliability.

Acne Studios: Looking to the late Sixties and early FALL 2014 Seventies, Acne creative director Jonny Johansson worked a psychedelic swirl print throughout his PARIS spirited fall lineup. Sometimes the motif resembled kitschy wallpaper and other times it veered toward COLLECTIONS neo-ethnic, such as with the zebra-printed ponyskin on a high-neck anorak. There was also a group of peach and ice-blue denim numbers that had a post-hippie street feel; the culottes and high-waisted pants looked especially fresh. And while a vintage vibe was the leitmotif, some of the silhouettes felt almost futuristic. A series of one-arm tops were wrapped around the body like scarves, while large metallic discs worn as neckpieces over technical Windbreakers proved that Johansson was in an experimental mood.

Vivienne Westwood: Continuing on her quest to save the rainforest, Vivienne Westwood recently spent time with the Asháninka people in Peru. Her fall runway paid tribute to their elegant tribal prints, embroideries and feathery hairdos. — streamlined tailoring with an upscale artisanal red-and-black for an hourglass dress with a scooped In fact, Westwood’s show, staged in a Paris church, undercurrent and a touch of lingerie edge — which décolletage. The same dress shape was even more was an ecstatic melting pot of ethnic dress. The Caylor developed nicely for fall. striking when the motif was embroidered in bright red designer blended looks as varied as ruched African Lean, elegant tribal jacquard coats in shades of over a fuzzy gray-and-black leopard-printed wool. dresses and striped cotton desert tunics into one deep purple, black and gray/blue looked great over There were plenty of quieter looks, too: elegant dynamic collection. Imperial Asian influences came printed slipdresses. Touches of leather and fur, some riding skirts worn with slouchy high-heeled boots, as through on tailored jackets and ample skirts done of it in bright yellow set against black, emphasized the well as variations on Leroy’s signature tweeds. This in beautiful Chinese brocades, while samurailike luxury angle. season, the latter came in monochrome versions, ponchos evoked origami with their complicated folds. mismatched on a series of layered outfits. Other than the face paint and the theatrical, Julien David: Following a dreamy and colorful spring Graphic metallic half-belts cinched the fronts of some layered-up styling, Westwood remained mostly in season, Julien David steered into street-style territory outfits — a silver-plated style looked especially chic on a commercially viable territory, delivering a run of great with black as his central shade. The designer showed a long black wool coat that hung loose in the back. coats in blanket checks and military greens; her softly series of ankle-length sweater dresses and baggy pants wrapped dresses oozed easy romance. that were sometimes pulled up by side drawstrings for Roland Mouret: Roland Mouret is in a reflective mood. For the finale, Westwood worked yards of white tulle a cool vibe. “The show is more about my emotion, about me,” he into a frothy bridal look, an homage to the House of The simple cuts did not distract from the rich said backstage. “I am in my 50s now. It’s a rich time for Worth, as the church’s organs swelled. textures, which David worked strongly. He gave varsity me because I can use everything that I did in the past.” jackets and matching skirts character by using burnt A slightly misleading statement, perhaps. Known Maiyet: Kristy Caylor built her fall collection around a leather; fluffy, hand-knit wool had a nice cocooning for his linear, graphic tailoring, there were indeed self-portrait of Frida Kahlo, working off the self-reflective flair, and wool jacquard tops came in 3-D patterns that elements from the designer’s previous collections — an concept of “a look inside.” Backstage before the show, looked similar to the aforementioned fluffy wool. origami fold here, a cut-to-the-body shape there — but Caylor pointed out the graphic jacquards and silk prints Then, as the soundtrack turned from street to jazzy, this was no “best of ” lineup. Instead, Mouret broke up developed from a vintage African textile that related David brightened things up with a series of looks in his aesthetic with decorative effects, from textural to conveniently to the coat Kahlo wears in the painting. In allover metallic embroidery in shades of silver, violet, embellished, and softer silhouettes. addition, super shiny patent leather jackets played on electric blue and sometimes ombré. Backstage, the Taken apart, there were strong pieces, but as a the idea of a mirror, while knits, hand-done in Peru, had designer said it took up to “six kilometers of thread collection it lacked a cohesive statement. A red shift cutouts at the hips, elbows and “over the heart.” and 24 hours of machine work” to finish one piece. dress was rendered with gridlike surface insets, while Storytelling has been somewhat of an obsession at a black zippered jacket was shown with a skirt done Maiyet since it launched with its own curious brand Véronique Leroy: A deconstructed chevron — the two in whimsical, stringlike car wash panels. Mouret bio that needed explaining. Now that the backstory sides of the arrow touching but misaligned — ran also infused men’s wear touches via an exaggerated has been established, at least within the industry, through Véronique Leroy’s fall collection. gray Prince of Wales vest over a red draped skirt in a the label needs to create a strong aesthetic identity. The pattern was printed on a perforated gabardine matching pattern. Spring was the first solid expression of a specific look that came in a variety of colorways, including burnt- Standouts came toward the end: dresses adorned in

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Vivienne Roland Julien David Véronique Acne Westwood Mouret Leroy Studios

Maiyet Pedro Issey Lourenço Miyake

feathers, some which were worked into patches on the skirt for a romantic touch to Mouret’s signature look.

Issey Miyake: Nature proved a fertile source of inspiration for Yoshiyuki Miyamae’s fall collection for Issey Miyake, which used the brand’s signature hand-pleating and “steam-stretch” techniques to evoke tree rings. Miyamae always makes sure he adds a performance element to his shows, and for this one, musician Ei Wada played a guitar contraption attached to giant strings while Chiyako Maeda provided ethereal vocals. Models emerged carrying metallic bags shaped like half-circles, which they opened and placed ﬂat on the ﬂoor to reveal circular piles of fabric. These unfolded into accordion-pleated dresses and jackets that the models slipped over their black shirts and pants. Graphic patterns with intersecting circles brought to mind African cloth, but the steam-stretch looks were the most alluring. Ponchos with wavy hemlines bounced hypnotically with every step, and a brown top was one of several items featuring an undulating pattern woven via computer. The poetic display felt like an oasis of calm in the frenzy of MAÎTRE fashion week.

Pedro Lourenço: Pedro Lourenço glossed his slick, sporty silhouettes DOMINIQUE with shiny treatments, whether gold and silver lamé, tortoise- AND printed, sequined Neoprene or leather, sometimes doubling up on FOR MORE REVIEWS the reflective treatments with, for example, foil-printed silk lamés. AND IMAGES, SEE There were whiffs of Nicolas Ghesquière’s Balenciaga in the GIANNONI futuristic fabric vision. The materials were impressive, charging WWD.COM/ runway. the architectural cuts — tailored coats and blouses and dresses GIOVANNI done in graceful folds — with a speedy energy. The use of black, BY gold, yellow and silver brought to mind racing, and the space blankets issued at marathon ﬁnish lines. PHOTOS 20 WWD MONDAY, MARCH 3, 2014 WWD.COM

wake of the revelation in January that impossible,” she said, trying to wrap her he was having an affair with actress tongue around the French word for fury. FASHION SCOOPS Julie Gayet. Rihanna, Aïssa Maïga and Farida Khelfa Other guests at the show included were among the other guests seated at Jessica Alba, Emma Roberts and Evan Peters, pulpits in the room. Ruth Wilson, Eva Herzigova, Marisa Berenson “It looks like an igloo. J’adore,” THE ODD COUPLE: and Harvey Weinstein. exclaimed Noémie Lenoir. The Rihanna and Beth Peters will be seen in FOR MORE French model and actress Ditto shared May in “X-Men: Days of SCOOPS, SEE said that after her short-lived the front row Future Past,” and said stint on the French version for the second playing the character of WWD.com. of “Dancing With the Stars,” straight day at the Quicksilver required four she is recording tracks for her Givenchy show in hours a day of hair and debut album, which she hopes Paris on Sunday, makeup. “You just talk, hang out, play to release later this year. where the pair on your phone, maybe read a little bit,” “It’s going to be dark, but positive at was overheard he shrugged. — J.D. the same time,” said Lenoir, who has trading tips on spoken openly about her suicide attempt hot bands. The TRADING PLACES: The old adage that the in 2010. “It’s autobiographical. It speaks previous night, grass is always greener on the other to all women, actually. It’s going to be they both attended side holds true for some of the French moving — I hope people like it. I’m going the Jean Paul actresses who took in the John Galliano to ask Rihanna for advice.” — J.D. Gaultier show. show in Paris on Sunday. “Maybe we both Laura Smet, who won plaudits for have the same her big-screen debut as a cancer STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE tastes,” said Ditto. patient in “Les corps impatients” (or “Her birthday is Rihanna and Jessica Alba and “Eager Bodies”), relished the chance the day after mine. Laetitia Casta Harvey Weinstein of playing a beauty queen in the

Only she’s like 12 ALL PHOTOS BY upcoming “Etats de femmes,” a comedy years younger.” directed by Katia Lewkowicz. “It’s totally Fellow guests included Kanye West, EYE ON THE PRIZE: Making her way over the top,” she said of her role. “I Isabelle Huppert, Noomi Rapace, Rila Fukushima, backstage after the Dior show on Friday, play a girl who is slightly lost, a Miss Angel Haze, Bobby Gillespie and Hidetoshi Nakata. Rihanna — wearing a red fur coat from the Francophone Countries. I have breasts Laetitia Casta was keeping her fashion fall 2013 couture collection — stopped to out to here. She’s a bit ridiculous and projects under wraps, but was happy to greet fellow guests including Azzedine Alaïa, that made it a lot of fun.” talk about her next movie, “Sous les jupes Suzy Menkes and blogger Bryan Grey Yambao, Meanwhile, Frédérique Bel is working des filles” (“Very Bad Girls”), coming out in aka Bryanboy. hard to shed the character that made June. Directed by Audrey Dana, the film boasts After embracing designer Raf Simons, her famous in France. She played a strong female cast including Isabelle Adjani, Rihanna posed for photographers, letting blonde airhead Dorothy Doll in “La Vanessa Paradis and Marina Hands. her coat slip off seductively, even though minute blonde,” a daily satirical “Actually, Audrey Dana interviewed it was already cut out at the shoulders. interview segment on Canal Plus, but Kris Van Assche around 400 women from all walks of life “I’m going to call you because I want to has now dyed her hair brown in the and Dries Van Noten and so the story ended up being quite wear, like, 20 things on there,” Rihanna hope of landing meatier roles. “The universal — what women talk about and told Simons before leaving. movie world is quite misogynistic, and who they are,” she said. “We support Almost drawing as much attention was when you play an objectified woman, GREEN THUMBS: Claude Montana, Erdem each other. I think it’s going to be a very Valérie Trierweiler, making her first public it is quite difficult afterwards to claim Moralioglu and Kris Van Assche were interesting film, and very funny, too.” appearance in Paris since her split from the right to be anything else. So it’s among the designers who attended — JOELLE DIDERICH French President François Hollande in the been hard,” she said. “I think a pretty the preview of the exhibition “Dries woman with a brain bothers some Van Noten Inspirations” at Les Arts people. So now that I’m a brunette, Décoratifs in Paris on Thursday. maybe I’m entitled to have a brain.” “I don’t know him; I came to see Bel will be seen next in a comedy the exhibit out of curiosity,” said the about racism called “Qu’est-ce qu’on notoriously reclusive Montana, who had a fait au Bon Dieu?” She plays a been part of an exhibit at the museum lawyer whose parents struggle with in 2010 which regrouped designers from the fact that their daughters marry the Seventies and Eighties. men of different origins. Esther Garrel, The event was hosted by Barneys the younger sister of actor Louis Garrel, New York, which will dedicate its said she would soon start filming windows to the Belgian designer. “It “L’astragale,” based on the novel of the will be all Dries very soon,” said Dennis same name by Albertine Sarrazin, a Freedman, the store’s creative director, convict and prostitute who died in 1967 who added he was lucky enough to visit at the age of 29. “I play the writer’s Van Noten’s garden in Antwerp. “It is girlfriend, Marie,” said Garrel, noting one of the most exquisite landscapes that her mother, Brigitte Sy, is directing you’ll ever see.” the film. — J.D. Moralioglu, a self-proclaimed fan of the designer with plenty of his pieces, said Van Noten inspires him: “He is very Jean Paul Gaultier independent — literally and figuratively.” and Beth Ditto Moralioglu doesn’t have a green thumb himself. “I have more of a red one, actually,” he said, laughing: “I guess from sewing, you know the needles.” Frédéric Malle, who created a fragrance with Van Noten, said he felt “reassured” after seeing the exhibit that the scent featuring notes of sandalwood was “accurate” in re-creating the designer’s universe olfactively. “I love plants, but since I travel so much I cannot water them,” deplored Anja Rubik, dressed in Balmain. “Now I [have] bamboo — for good luck — and it doesn’t need so much taking care of. I am sure Dries gets a lot of inspiration from gardening; it is like meditation.” COOL ROOM: “Is this really the After fashion week, Rubik will return headquarters for the Communist home to New York and start working on Party?” asked Beth Ditto, stepping the new issue of her magazine 25, which into the central cupola of the Sixties is slated for September. building designed by Oscar Niemeyer. Pierre Hardy, who moved his The futuristic venue in Paris is regularly showrooms to Paris’ Left Bank earlier rented out for events like Jean Paul this month, said he is preparing a Gaultier’s show on Saturday. “I think it’s retrospective exhibit at the Shinsegae WHERE TITANS OF INDUSTRY TALK kind of amazing,” the singer marveled. department store in Seoul, to coincide wwd.com/summitsondemand Ditto was still buzzing from with the opening of his first store in presenting the award for Best Original South Korea. Featuring videos from each event, Fairchild Summits Score at the Césars ceremony the Meanwhile, model Hanne Gaby Odiele, On-Demand offers you the opportunity to watch as the previous night — in French, no less. “I accompanied by Raquel Zimmermann, said don’t think my French was like, super she will become a gardener soon. She titans of industry inform, inspire, and offer valuable insight amazing, but at least I tried. Do you beamed: “I just bought an apartment in for navigating the ever-changing business landscape. know what, the hardest thing I ever New York, and I’ll have a rooftop.” tried to say was fureur. It’s impossible, — LAURE GUILBAULT WWDSTYLE MEMO PAD

Kate Moss on the March cover of Lui.

IN THE FLESH: Kate Moss made a showing at a party in Paris on Saturday hosted by Lui, the French men’s monthly magazine whose name in English means “him.” Moss — who recently turned 40 — appears naked on the cover of the publication’s March issue. For it, Terry Richardson photographed her sitting on a director’s chair. Turn the page and there’s a second cover and then a third, each revealing more of the model. Inside are racy fashion spreads also shot by Richardson, which feature Moss in the buff — save for a transparent leotard by Alexandre Vauthier, an Azzedine Alaïa python-print halter-style bra and a satin-and- mesh panty by Agent Provocateur worn with a Tom Ford gold harness necklace. The 198-page issue’s advertisers include Jennifer Lawrence in Amy Adams in Gucci Premiere Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren and Dior Homme. Christian Dior Haute Couture. couture and Tiffany & Co. Cate Blanchett in Armani Privé. Moss also sported her birthday suit in Playboy’s 60th anniversary issue. LOS ANGELES — After days — LAURE GUILBAULT of torrential rain, the clouds THE NOMINEES ARE...: Nominees for Style parted just in time for the Coalition’s 5th Annual Fashion 2.0 Awards have been released for outstanding Clear Skies 86th Academy Awards and achievements and communication strategies the stars to walk the red across a variety of digital media channels. This year, both Burberry and Ralph Lauren carpet. There was no obvious fashion trend this time around, with actresses led the pack with the most nominations opting for everything from ﬁre red (Jennifer Lawrence) to powder blue (Lupita followed by ASOS, DKNY, Free People and Nyong’o) to black (Julia Roberts) and everything in between, generally in classic Michael Kors. The founders of Warby Parker will be honored with the Visionary Award. silhouettes. For more on Oscar weekend, see pages 22 and 23. Burberry was nominated in such categories as Best Twitter, Best Facebook, Lupita Nyong’o in Julia Roberts Best Online Campaign and Top Innovator, custom Prada and in Givenchy while Ralph Lauren was nominated for Fred Leighton. and Bulgari. Best Facebook, Best Online Campaign, Best Online Video and Top Innovator. Other categories include Best Start-Up, Best Wearable Tech, Best Pinterest, Best Instagram and Best E-Commerce. The public can cast their vote for the winners at fashion20Awards.com/vote through March 14. Celebrity stylist and on-air personality Robert Verdi will emcee the black-tie festivities on March 20 at the Merkin Concert Hall at Kaufman Center in New York. They will be live-streamed online and on Twitter via #fashion20. Fashion GPS is the event’s industry partner. — LISA LOCKWOOD

IT’S ALL IMPOSSIBLE: Lily Cole is taking her social giving Web site Impossible to the U.S. this month and the model will be talking it up in the next few weeks. First up is a speaking engagement at Harvard’s Berkman Center for Internet & Society on Wednesday with Internet pioneer Sir Tim Berners-Lee. Wikipedia founder Jimmy Wales and Nobel prize winning economist Muhammad Yunus are also part of her inner circle. The model will discuss her giving networking site Thursday at RISD. On March 13 Cole can be found on the SXSW Neiman Marcus-backed panel “Make Some Noise,” and on March 19 she will chat with Chelsea Sandra Bullock in Clinton at the Apple store in SoHo in New SARDELLA DONATO Alexander McQueen York. Cole will keep the conversation going and Lorraine Schwartz. about Impossible later in the month too. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG PHOTOS BY 22 WWD MONDAY, MARCH 3, 2014

Emma Watson eye in Vera Wang.

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye.

Brad Pitt in Tom Ford with Jared Leto in Saint Laurent. Angelina Jolie in Elie Saab.

“Mr. Armani designed this for me,” Blanchett said of her paillette-strewn pale gold gown. As for her Chopard jewels, “Opals Gold Rush are a must-have in Australia, so it’s a little touch of home.” AS USUAL, some of the best came last on the Lupita Nyong’o also had home on her mind. red carpet of the 86th Academy Awards in While her soft blue gown was custom-made Los Angeles. by Prada, and inspired by Champagne And it appeared to be a lighter shade of bubbles, she noted, “This reminds me of pale — from icy white on Naomi Watts and Kate my hometown in Nairobi. The walls of my Hudson to powder pink on Jessica Biel, Penélope school were the same color, and back then, Cruz, Camila Alves McConaughey and Lady Gaga, and I couldn’t wait to get out, but now, it’s a nice silvery shades on Angelina Jolie, Jennifer Garner and reminder of home.” Julie Delpy. Even the de rigueur gold dresses were While all three of the aforementioned more akin to Champagne this year. Sally Hawkins stars had massages on Oscar morning to rolled up in one such gown as last call was relax, Kevin Spacey, a producer of Best Picture Charlize Theron in Christian Dior being announced, still in a state of shock. “I’m in nominee “Captain Phillips,” admitted to Haute Couture and Harry Winston. Valentino, so how can I not feel like a goddess?” drinking whiskey to calm his nerves. she gushed. “I’m incredibly lucky to be on the Even Julia Roberts, another Oscar veteran, red carpet at the Oscars, wearing Valentino, seemed to have a case of the jitters. “This nominated for a Woody Allen film. I mean, does it morning it was fine, right now is another get any better than that?” Hawkins was unaware story,” she laughed. that her “Blue Jasmine” screen sister Cate Glenn Close described her first Oscars as Blanchett was standing just behind her, mouthing a downright terrifying experience. “I heard the word “beautiful” before feigning a demented this roar from the crowd when I got out of the expression and pretending to grind her heel car and I felt like I was going to be fed to the into Hawkins’ train. “Go away, you’re making me lions. It was like going into the Colosseum.” Anne Hathaway in look bad,” she scolded Hawkins. — MARCY MEDINA Gucci and Neil Lane.

Matthew McConaughey with Kerry Washington SARDELLA DONATO Camila Alves McConaughey in Gabriela Naomi Watts in Calvin Klein Pharrell Williams in Lanvin Leonardo DiCaprio in Jason Wu and Cadena and Lorraine Schwartz. Collection and Bulgari. with Helen Lasichanh. in Giorgio Armani. Jennifer Meyer. PHOTOS BY WWD MONDAY, MARCH 3, 2014 23 WWD.COM

Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie

Reese Witherspoon in Giambattisa Valli.

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Patton Oswalt spared no one in Matthew McConaughey and WWD.com/eye. Fired Up his monologue, Camila Alves McConaughey including Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, and Bruce Dern, who interview platform, a huge gust of wind AFTER MONTHS of breathless flipped him the bird when the comic said nearly blew the tent down. “It looks like anticipation, of campaigning and that Dern came to the show “to see the there’s a storm coming. If we all die here, prognosticating, there was just one ocean one last time.” it’s been nice to know you,” she said. more day to go before it was all over. On Jared Leto donned a grunge-inspired Later that night, the annual Oscar- Saturday night, Hollywood was taking a Balmain ensemble, and had fun running eve dinner hosted by Charles Finch and breather before its own Super Bowl, the into overtime in his acceptance speech Chanel at old-school Italian eatery 86th Academy Awards on Sunday. There for best supporting actor for the film Madeo was again the antithesis of most was little pressure, for instance, at the “Dallas Buyers Club,” thanking everyone Hollywood parties: no step-and-repeat, Film Independent Spirit Awards, this year from Pink Floyd to Mozart and River no celebrity handlers, no drama. held inside a tent on Santa Monica Beach. Phoenix. “I’d also like to thank my future Instead of being greeted by a phalanx These prizes used to have little in common ex-wife, Lupita Nyong’o, all the women of reporters, guests — Julie Delpy, Lily Garrett Hedlund and Michael B. Jordan with the Oscars, but that was back when I’ve been with, and all the women who Collins, Adrien Brody, Alice Eve and Vanessa at the Film Independent Spirit Awards. movie stars only worked for the studios. think they’ve been with me,” he said. “And Getty among them — descended a “All those rules that used to apply to things just for a little social media trending, stairway to the musical 15 years ago don’t apply anymore. The most #mymindisblown, thank you, Twitter.” stylings of a mariachi Eve Hewson, an early arrival. exciting films these days are independent Blanchett, who won the best actress band and into the narrow, Gerwig showed up moments films. As an actor, it’s a great opportunity award for her turn in Woody Allen’s “Blue candlelit restaurant. Many later, donning her first-ever to actually act,” Reese Witherspoon said Jasmine,” arrived in the backstage in attendance are regulars Chanel dress. “I feel like a backstage. There’s so much overlap in interview room just as the best actor at the dinner, but each princess,” she said. “I went nominees these days that the indie prizes award was about to be called out. year brings a few new from rocking an orange-on- now function as a sort of casual dress Instead of muting the video feed to faces — this year’s crop orange Narciso Rodriguez at rehearsal for many of the stars who were take questions, she asked the room, included Anne Hathaway, the Independent Spirit Awards up for awards at both events, like Cate “Should we wait and see who wins?” It Greta Gerwig, Sienna Miller to this ladylike look.” Blanchett, Matthew McConaughey, Bruce Dern, was McConaughey for “Dallas Buyers and the “Game of Thrones” Caroline Sieber scrapped Chiwetel Ejiofor and Lupita Nyong’o. Emcee Club.” When she finally stepped up to the actress Emilia Clarke. Models Paris Fashion Week for including Poppy Delevingne, Oscar and said of the awards Helena Christensen and Rosie season frenzy: “It’s an exciting Huntington-Whiteley and change. Everyone in town is so filmmakers like David O. fired up.” Russell and Oliver Stone made Clarke had a different up the rest of the crowd. view. “I guess I’m getting “This is the first party used to it,” she said, but then I’ve gone to Oscar week, so Shailene Woodley at reconsidered. “Actually, I I’m not tired from having the Film Independent take that back. You never get been out every night,” said Spirit Awards. used to it.” — M.M.

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