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Pictures from the Balkans 1pffTIIPFs .E PICTURES FROM s THE BALKANS FOSTER FRASER JOHN FOSTER FRASER CASSELL PICTURES FROM THE BALKANS By JOHN FOSTER FRASER With Four Full-page Plates POPULAR EDITION CASSELL AND COMPANY, LTD London, New York, Toronto and Melbourne 1912 First published 1906 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 1 01 r > 5" v- -3 PUBLISHERS' NOTE Six brief years have passed since "Pictures from the Balkans " was first published, yet in that short time much history has been made. Austria has ex- tended her boundaries, and Bosnia and Herzegovina are now parts of her empire. Bulgaria has shaken herself free from the Turk, and her Prince is now a Tsar in his own kingdom. Turkey has known the stress of revolution, has seen one Sultan fall and another rise, and her grip on the Balkan peoples has been weakened by a desert war. These political changes, however, have but little affected those general conditions which, in "Pictures from the Balkans," Mr. Foster Fraser so ably described, and in issuing this popular edition the Publishers have not thought it necessary to make any alterations in the Author's graphic and far-seeing text. —A CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. A KETTLE OF FISH. PAGE An Affray at Orovsji—Civil War between Rival Christian Churches—Jealousies between the Powers—The Mace- donians a Mixture of Races—Bulgarian " Bands " and their Methods—Greek " Bands "—Conversion and Re- conversion—European Officers and the Gendarmerie— Big Massacre Wanted—Servian " Bands " in Macedonia Turk and Greek—The Remedy 1 CHAPTER II. BELGRADE. A Russian Town made Clean—Military Officers—The Mark of a Crime—Rival Dynasties, Ohrenovitch and Karageorgo- vitch—King Milan—King Alexander and Queen Draga Austria's Hand in the Plot—Breaking into the Palace The Search for the King and Queen—A Woman's Shriek —Murder of the Queen's Brothers, of Ministers and Officials—Where the King and Queen were Buried Indignation of the Powers—The Servian People not Responsible for the Crime—Plot and Counterplot—The Serbs a Nation of Peasants—The National Garb Dying Out 18 CHAPTER III. A SITTING OF THE SERVIAN PARLIAMENT. A Mean House of Parliament—A Debate—Short-lived Govern- ments—Dealing with Irregular Elections—Democratic Appearance of the Members—A Congeries of Cliques The Pay of Members and Ministers—The Leader of the Opposition—The Minister of Justice—An Interview with the Prime Minister 37 —A vi CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. A MONASTIC RETREAT. VAQK The Most Famous Monastery in Servia—The Archimandrite —A Glimpse of the First King of Servia—The Vicissitudes of a Silver Coffin—Sacredness of the King's Remains— Devout Brigand—Dinner in the Monastery—The Church —Feast of St. Mary 47 CHAPTER V. THE PEASANT NATION. The Serb a Hater of Town Life—A State without Towns The Servian Pig—Why British Trade is Dwindling—Peasant Proprietorship—A Country Ruled by Local Government Taxation—Military Service—A Simple, Genuine Folk . 59 CHAPTER VI. SOFIA. A Miniature Brussels—A City in the Making—The Public Build- ings—The Church of St. Sofia—The Bulgar's Qualities— Kaleidoscopic History—Prince Ferdinand—His Unpopu- larity—Bulgarian Ambitions—The Prince a Factor for Peace—The Most Efficient Army in Europe—A Nation that Believes in Education 66 CHAPTER VII. A BIT OF OLD BULGARIA. Out of the World—Tirnova in the Sunrise—A Primitive Inn The Tariff—" Ver' Good English "—A Litigious Community —The Churches—Monastery of the Transfiguration . 77 CHAPTER VIII. OVER THE SHIPKA PASS. Memorials of the Great Fight—Traces of Turkish Days—The Joy of Early Morning-~Shipka Village—How the Russians Behaved after their Victory—Glimpse of the Plain of Thrace 87 CHAPTER IX. THE ROSE GARDEN OF EUROPE. Where the Best Attar of Roses Comes from—Kasanlik—A Rose Garden Eighty Miles Long—The Plantations—The Process of Distilling—Adulteration—Prices—Potency of Attar of Roses • • 93 —— CONTENTS. vii CHAPTER X. THE CITY OF THE PLAIN. |>AGE A Sunday Evening at Philippopolis—Individuality of the City —A Passion for Education—Bulgarians not Speculative Agriculture—Industry of the Peasants—Return of the Turks —Bulgar Characteristics—Fleeing from the Heat—Monas- tery of St. Petka—A Night in the Open . .100 CHAPTER XI. IN THE LAND OF THE TURK. Adrianople—Mistaken for a Person of Distinction—The Real East—A Mixed Population—The Mosques—A Great Fire —A City of Terror—An Armenian's Adventure—Celebrating the Sultan's Accession—A Turkish Exhibition—Turkish Time—A Visit to the Vali 110 CHAPTER XII. WHERE THE " BEST BORDEAUX " COMES FROM. Turkish Roads—A Halt—Kirk Kilise—Shipping Wine to Bor- deaux—Visiting the Governor—Etiquette—The Return Visit—Elaborate Make-believe—A Representative of Great Britain 123 CHAPTER XIII. IN THE BORDERLAND. Insurrection and Reprisal—Taken for a British Secret Service Official—The Village of Dolan—The Headman—Sileohlu Bulgarians and Turks Living Together Amicably—Incessant Coffee-drinking 132 CHAPTER XIV. his majesty's representative. A British Consulate Described—Comfort the Triumph of English Civilisation—Home Thoughts—England Honoured in the Balkans ......... 143 CHAPTER XV. THE TURK AS RULER. Virtues of the Turk—The Sultan's Point of View—The Two Turkeys—The Reform Party—Universality of Corruption Abuses of Taxation—The Peasant—The Turk Incompetent to Rule 151 — viii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVI. UNDER THE EYE OF BRITAIN. pACE Drama, the Centre of the British Sphere of Influence—British Officers Wearing the Fez—An Expedition into the Hills Spies—Enmity between Greeks and Bulgars—Philippi Memories of Greeks and Romans—St. Paul's Visit—Kavala —Skittish Turkish Ladies—Where the Tobacco for Egyptian Cigarettes is Grown—A Moslem Monastery—Birthplace of Mahomet Ah 160 CHAPTER XVII. THE CONDITION OF MACEDONIA. The Different Parties—Decrease of the Moslem Population Nationality not a Matter of Race—A Hotbed of Intrigue The Macedonian Committees—Austria and Russia as Watch- dogs—Greece the Tool of the Sultan—Where the Future of the Balkans is Likely to be Decided . .174 CHAPTER XVIII. SALONIOA. Mount Olympus at Sunrise—Ancient and Modern Greeks Albanians—Women of Different Races and their Dress The " Converts "—English Manners and Others—The Turks of Salonika—The Art of Driving Bargains . .183 CHAPTER XIX. HILMI PASHA, " BONHAM'S BABIES," AND SOME STORIES. The Viceroy of Macedonia—Major Bonham and the Gendarmerie School—" Bonham's Babies "—The Salonika Explosions " " —Tales of Greek and Bulgarian Bands . .197 CHAPTER XX. MONASTIR. The Cut-throat Part of Europe—Murder a Commonplace Massacres by the Turks—Bursts of Ferocity and Bursts of " Philanthropy—Outrages by Greek and Bulgarian " Bands —The Risings of 1903—Audacity of the Komitajis—dela- tions between the Bulgarian and Turkish Governments . 205 —— CONTENTS. ix CHAPTER XXI. THE QUAINT CITY OF OCHRIDA. FAGlB Among Brigands—Attacked by Goat-dogs—The Dogs Dismayed —A Grateful Albanian—Resna—Melons, Melons all the Way—Hard Life of the Albanian Peasants—A Thirsty Ride—Water at Last—A Young Turkish Soldier and his Devotions—Ochrida—The Chief of Police and his Horse A Hotbed of Intrigue—Healing Water . .218 CHAPTER XXII. THE MOUNTAINS OF ALBANIA. Lake Ochrida,—Struga—A Nation of Dandies—Why the Turks Provided an Escort—Confidence of Albanians in the English —A False Alarm—Kjuks—A Beautiful Prospeot—A Start at Daybreak—A Perilous Descent—Roman Bridges Rudimentary Roads ..... 233 CHAPTER XXIII. ELBASAN. The Central Town of Albania—Albania like Scotland and the Highlands in the Sixteenth Century—Chronic Guerilla Warfare—Elbasan—Twenty or Thirty Murders a Week Ducks as Scavengers—Albanian Silk—The Best Hotel in Elbasan—A Single-minded Landlord—Mr. Carnegie's Fame 245 CHAPTER XXIV. THE ALBANIANS. Albanian Ferocity and Chivalry—A High Sense of Honour Language—Religion—Customs—Lack of Unity—Outrages 250 CHAPTER XXV. BERAT. A Dismal Journey—Berat at Sunset—A Fever-breeding Town —Koritza—A Specimen of the Eastern Christian—Goodbye to Berat 261 CHAPTER XXVI. KOUGH EXPERIENCES IN THE MOUNTAINS. A Refuse-heap of Nature—Benighted—A Dangerous Path A Cheerless Night—Cigarettes for Breakfast—On the Moun- tain Top—The Down Grade—Permet—A Short Cut over —A x CONTENTS. PAGK the Mountains to Liaskovik—Turkish Courtesy—Albanian Wedding Festivities—A Turkish Bride—A Sixteen Hours' Ride—Koritza Again—An Antiquity ! —Back at Monastir . 269 CHAPTER XXVII. A NIGHT ALARM. USKUP. THE FINISH. Difficulties in Hiring—A Disturbed Region—Taking Refuge in a Harem—A Midnight Visit from a " Band "—At Uskup War the only Solution of the Macedonian Problem— Gloomy Forecast—Germany's Designs . .281 ILLUSTRATIONS An Insurgent Band of Bulgarians . Frontispiece Facing page In a Mixed Village : Turks and Bulgarians 116 A Good Trade in Daggers 116 Macedonian Peasants ...... 202 A Group of Servians 256 PICTURES FROM THE BALKANS. CHAPTEE L A KETTLE OF FISH. An Affray at Orovsji—Civil War between Rival Christian Churches —Jealousies between the Powers—The Macedonians a Mixture of Races—Bulgarian " Bands " and their Methods—Greek " " Bands —Conversion and Reconversion—European Officers and the Gendarmerie—A Big Massacre Wanted—Servian " Bands " in Macedonia—Turk and Greek—The Remedy. Biding in Macedonia I passed the village of Orovsji. The inhabitants had just buried seven Bulgarians and four Turkish soldiers who had killed each other the previous day. Otherwise all was quiet. Indeed, the Balkan peninsula was never so quiet. There were no wholesale massacres of peaceful Christians by ferocious Moslems, no fire and sword campaign by the troops of the Sultan, no batches of outrages on peasant women by devils wearing the fez. There were few incidents which newspaper correspondents at Constantinople heard of and tele- r graphed to London. And yet, if totals count, there were more murders in Macedonia in 1905 than during any of the years which have thrilled Christian Europe and caused worthy folk to exclaim, " Some- " thing must be done ! The reason Macedonian methods have attracted B ; 2 PICTURES FROM THE BALKANS.
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