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Marni Con Risso MF fashion II il primo quotidiano della moda e del lussoMF Anno fashion XXXII n. 253 mercoledì 23 dicembre 2020 ONLINE SU MFFASHION.COM LE GALLERY FOTOGRAFICHE DELLE COLLEZIONI S-S 2021 UN LOOK MARNI SPRING-SUMMER 2021 MMarniarni rrinnovainnova cconon RRissoisso IInn eesclusivasclusiva MMFFFF aanticipanticipa llaa cconfermaonferma ddelloello sstilistatilista aall ttimoneimone ddellaella mmaisonaison ddii OOtb.tb. ««FrancescoFrancesco hhaa fforgiatoorgiato uunana nnuovauova ddirezione,irezione, ssonoono ffeliceelice ddii aandarendare aavantivanti cconon llui»,ui», hhaa sspiegatopiegato iill ppresidenteresidente ddelel ggruppo,ruppo, RRenzoenzo RRosso.osso. NNell’ultimoell’ultimo aannonno iill bbrandrand hhaa ssfioratofiorato 220000 mmilioniilioni ((+8%)+8%) rancesco Risso non lascia. Anzi, raddoppia. Il primo direttore cre- ativo del brand succeduto, quattro anni fa (vedere MFF del 22 ottobre 2016) alla fondatrice Consuelo Castiglioni , che aveva crea- Fto la label nel 1994, si vede riconfermato al timone del marchio che ha contribuito notevolmente a far crescere, sviluppandone una visione al confine con l’arte, molto amata dai giovani di tutto il mondo. «Quattro an- ni fa fui onorato dell’opportunità che mi veniva offerta e, oggi, sono ancora più grato per questa rinnovata fiducia», ha anticipato in esclusiva a MFF lo stesso Risso. «Francesco ha forgiato una nuova direzione per il marchio, ringiovanendolo e appropriandosene. Sono felice di poter continuare a lavorare insieme per gli anni a venire», gli ha fatto eco Renzo Rosso, che ha acquisito il brand nel 2012. La maison è oggi di uno dei gioielli della corona del gruppo Otb, assieme a Maison Margiela e subito dopo Diesel. Marni (+8% nel 2019) ha sfiorato i 200 milioni nell’ultimo esercizio, secon- do quanto raccontato dal ceo Ubaldo Minelli a MFF lo scorso 10 marzo. «Marni sta ringiovanendo la sua clientela internazionale, già per oltre il 50% sotto i 35 anni. Le vendite hanno visto un incremento di oltre l’8%, con un comparto accessori al 58%, con 8 nuove aperture», aveva preci- sato il manager. Rimanendo fedele allo spirito del brand, Risso ha spinto il marchio oltre i suoi confini, promuovendo la creatività a tutti i livelli e trasformando Marni in un crocevia di dialoghi artistici. Prima di approda- re da Marni, Risso ha svolto un ruolo importante nel gruppo Prada, dove è approdato nel 2008 e ha lavorato alle collezioni femminili e a progetti speciali. Diplomato al Polimoda di Firenze con studi di perfezionamento al Fit-Fashion institute of technology di New York e ancora alla Central Saint Martin’s di Londra, lo stilista ha poi iniziato a lavorare da Anna Molinari, per decollare con Alessandro Dell’Acqua e Malo. «Quello che Direttore ed editore Paolo Panerai - Direttore Stefano Roncato 23.12.20 COSÌ I LUXURY STOCKS NELLE PIAZZE MONDIALI Dati in dollari Tapestry 29,87 1,7 10,3 Safilo Group 0,74 - -29,4 Lvmh 492,30 0,4 19,0 Dati in dollari Hong Kong STATI UNITI Prezzo ieri Var.% % 12m Tiffany & Co 131,17 0,0 -1,8 Salvatore Ferragamo 15,34 1,3 -19,2 Roche Bobois 19,65 0,3 12,3 HONG KONG Prezzo ieri Var.% % 12m Stefanel - - - Abercrombie & Fitch 19,02 -2,3 14,1 Under Armour 17,14 -1,2 -20,5 Smcp Sa 4,64 -2,1 -52,9 Chow Tai Fook Jewellery 5,28 -2,4 -48,6 V.F. Corp Tod’s 28,28 0,3 -31,7 Amazon 3.191,50 -0,5 78,0 83,81 -1,3 -14,8 Dati in pence Esprit Holdings 1,00 - -38,3 Vince Hldg 6,01 -8,2 -68,8 Zucchi 1,73 3,0 -6,0 Canada Goose 30,88 -3,5 -18,0 REGNO UNITO Prezzo ieri Var.% % 12m Global Brands 0,19 -1,6 -73,2 Capri Holdings Ltd 41,81 -0,2 10,3 Dati in euro Dati in euro Asos 4.570,00 0,4 41,7 L’Occitane 19,28 0,5 1,8 Coty 7,54 11,0 -31,6 Prezzo ieri Var.% % 12m GERMANIA Prezzo ieri Var.% % 12m ITALIA Burberry Grp 1.772,50 0,7 -20,7 Prada 44,00 -2,2 37,3 Estee Lauder 257,91 1,3 25,2 Aeffe 1,14 2,7 -44,0 Adidas-Salomon 293,50 2,1 0,8 Farfetch Mulberry 202,00 -1,9 -29,4 Samsonite 12,50 -4,0 -31,8 65,14 1,1 576,4 Basicnet 3,95 2,3 -24,8 Hugo Boss 26,91 1,6 -37,8 Fossil 9,29 -0,3 19,9 Dati in corone svedesi Dati in corone danesi Brunello Cucinelli 36,92 2,6 13,7 Puma 90,06 2,9 31,3 Gap Inc 20,31 -0,5 15,0 SVEZIA Prezzo ieri Var.% % 12m Prezzo ieri Var.% % 12m Caleffi 0,71 0,7 -43,2 Zalando 90,60 1,3 101,1 DANIMARCA Guess 18,73 0,9 -14,6 Dati in euro Hennes & Mauritz 171,60 1,5 -10,8 Pandora 651,60 1,0 124,6 Iconix Brand Grp Cover 50 6,80 0,7 -29,2 1,10 3,4 -3,0 SPAGNA Prezzo ieri Var.% % 12m Dati in franchi svizzeri Kontoor Brands 41,16 0,7 -1,3 Csp Int. Ind. Calze 0,43 1,9 -30,0 Dati in yen giapponesi L Brands 37,82 -2,2 107,0 Fope 8,70 -0,6 -3,3 Inditex 25,76 1,7 -18,6 SVIZZERA Prezzo ieri Var.% % 12m GIAPPONE Prezzo ieri Var.% % 12m Dati in euro Lululemon Athletica 359,96 -3,6 57,8 Geox 0,80 1,9 -32,5 Richemont 78,72 1,2 2,6 Fast Retailing 84.420,00 0,6 26,8 Giorgio Fedon Prezzo ieri Var.% % 12m Men`s Wearhouse 0,30 - -92,9 5,15 -4,6 -23,7 FRANCIA Swatch I 236,50 1,4 -12,3 Shiseido 7.054,00 -1,1 -10,6 Italia Independent 1,81 -1,6 12,4 Nike Inc 142,92 -0,8 42,9 Essilorluxottica 128,40 1,6 -7,1 Dati in euro Dati in real brasiliani Pvh Corp. 92,37 -2,4 -11,9 Moncler 48,38 1,7 18,6 Hermes Intl 856,00 0,4 26,5 Ralph Lauren Corp. 99,33 -2,0 -15,7 Ovs 1,01 0,2 -50,3 Kering 556,90 2,1 -4,3 AUSTRIA Prezzo ieri Var.% % 12m BRASILE Prezzo ieri Var.% % 12m Revlon Inc 12,87 3,0 -41,2 Piquadro 1,52 - -37,7 L’Oreal 301,80 2,1 13,8 Wolford 6,60 6,5 10,9 Alpargatas 40,53 -2,3 24,1 Finanza Gmi acquisisce il calzaturificio Broma MFF rivela un’importante operazione nel mondo della supply chain. Consilium sgr costituisce così un polo da 100 milioni di fatturato l’anno. E lavora a un altro takeover per il 2021. Andrea Guolo e Matteo Minà mi-Gruppo manifatture italiane sino e ha chiuso il 2019 con un fatturato di 24 to in esclusiva a MFF Alberto Zunino, a.d. mette a segno una nuova acqui- milioni di euro, registrando negli ultimi tre di Gmi, proseguendo: «Abbiamo già iniziato sizione. Il gruppo, controllato anni una crescita annua media del 20%. Con i primi approcci con altre realtà interessan- Gda Consilium sgr e nato a fine l’operazione appena conclusasi, Gmi affian- ti, anche fuori dalla Toscana, con l’obiettivo 2019 (vedere MFF del 24 ottobre 2019) ca ai tre calzaturifici toscani River, Energy di un’acquisizione all’anno e con la prossi- con l’obiettivo di costituire un polo di ec- e Claudia un’altra eccellenza, e oggi conta ma nel 2021, rimanendo però focalizzati sul cellenze italiane nella produzione di sneakers oltre 20 mila metri quadrati produttivi, cir- mondo della calzatura da adulto». Stefano e scarpe formali di lusso, ha siglato il deal ca 1.200 dipendenti tra Toscana, Albania e Iamoni, founding partner di Consilium per l’acquisto del 100% di Broma, azien- Tunisia, avvicinandosi ulteriormente alla ha poi aggiunto: «Siamo molto soddisfatti da di Cerreto Guidi (Firenze) specializzata produzione obiettivo di un milione di paia dell’acquisizione per creare un gruppo leader nella produzione di scarpe formali da uomo l’anno, con un fatturato complessivo di ol- nella manifattura di calzature di alta qualità». e sneakers per le griffe. La notizia, appresa tre 100 milioni di euro. «Broma ha un’ottima L’operazione è stata realizzata anche trami- da MFF, è stata confermata ieri dal gruppo complementarità con le altre aziende. Pur ri- te un finanziamento di Antares Az I, fondo nel giorno del closing. Broma conta oltre 50 manendo nella sua sede, come per le altre gestito da Azimut libera impresa sgr. (ri- Lo stabilimento toscano River dipendenti in Italia e 100 nel tomaificio tuni- realtà è stata acquisita al 100%», ha spiega- produzione riservata) abbiamo ottenuto negli ultimi anni non sarebbe stato possibile senza il sostegno di Renzo Rosso, del grup- a cura di Laura Bittau, Camilla Bordoni e Benedetta Curti po Otb e senza la dedizione dei team intorno a me. News Mentre il viaggio continua, sono entusiasta di guida- re Marni verso il futuro, con ancora più creatività, Gucci, svelata la co-lab con The north face Piacenza 1733 e Ibm onestà e impegno», ha proseguito Francesco Risso a proposito del rinnovo del suo contratto. «Da quando è L’annuncio era arrivato a settembre per la filiera digital entrato a far parte del team nel ruolo di direttore crea- quasi in sordina sui social di Gucci, Piacenza 1733 (nella foto, la sede), nota tivo, Francesco ha che aveva condiviso tre video brevi per la produzione di tessuti e abbigliamen- abbracciato pie- con una bandiera mossa dal vento to di alta qualità, svela la sua collaborazione namente il Dna fresco dell’alta montagna.
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