©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Even in a country of exquisite cities like , Rome is special. Epic, hot-blooded and achingly beautiful, it’s a heady mix of haunting ruins, awe-inspiring art, iconic monuments and vibrant street life. Rome’s historic cityscape, the result of 3000 years ROME of ad hoc urban development, is an exhilarating spectacle. Ancient icons such as the Colosseum, TOP SIGHTS, AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCES Roman Forum and Pantheon recall its golden age as caput mundi (capital of the world), while barn- storming basilicas testify to its historical role as seat of the Catholic Church. The city’s artistic heritage is also astonishing. Throughout history, Rome has starred in the great upheavals of Western art, drawing the top artists of the day and inspiring them to push the boundaries of creative achievement. The result is a city awash with priceless treasures. Ancient statues adorn world-class museums, Byzantine mosaics and Renaissance frescoes dazzle in art-rich churches, baroque fountains embellish medieval piazzas. Walk around the centre and without even trying you’ll come across masterpieces by the likes of Michelangelo, Caravaggio, Raphael and Bernini. But a trip to Rome is as much about lapping up the dolce vita lifestyle as gorging on art and culture. Whiling away hours at streetside cafes, idling on pretty piazzas, dining in boisterous neighbourhood trattorias – these are all an integral and enjoyable part of the Roman experience.

Rome is special...epic, Duncan Garwood, Nicola Williams hot-blooded and achingly beautiful

St Peter’s Basilica at dusk MAPICS/SHUTTERSTOCK © £# 0 500 m e# 0 0.25 miles 2 PLAN YOUR TRIP ROME Villa Borghese & Northern Rome # Villa BoEncompassesrghese & the glorious park of Villa Museo e Basilica di NortherBorghesen Rom ande the â# Galleria Santa Maria city’s cultural hub. RMKE CITY Borghese £# NEW RYO del Popolo (Map p256) Ü# Tivoli Contents (32km) £# #æ D Tridente, & the Via Plan Your Trip Quirinale Dining Out �������������������������������� 117 â# Margutta 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Vatican TridentGlamorous,e, 1Tr1ev1 idebonair1 1 1 1 1 This Year in Rome ���������������������������������4 #æ The Best ���������������������������������������������120 Museums Spanish # and1 touristy1 1 1– this1 1is 1 1 1 Hotspots for… ������������������������������������� 18 & the Qui1rin1 a1le 1 1 1 1 1 Ancient Rome �����������������������������������������122 # Steps Rome’s1 1 designer-clad1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Top Days in Rome ����������������������������� 20 Centro Storico ����������������������������������������122 £# Museo Nazionale soul.1 (Map1 1p250,1 1p2521 1 1 St Peter's Palazzo â# 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Need to Know �������������������������������������28 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale �������������� 126 Ü# Romano: Palazzo 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 iver & p256) What’s New ��������������������������������������� 30 Basilica Tiber R Barberini 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Vatican City, Borgo & ������������������� 129 Trevi Massimo alle Terme 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 For Free ����������������������������������������������� 31 Fountain #æ â# Stazione 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ������������ 131 £# 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Vatican City, Borgo Termini Family Travel ���������������������������������������32 & Gianicolo �������������������������� 134 Vatican Piazza 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 & Prati Pantheon 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 San Giovanni & Testaccio ����������������������137 Navona#æ Ü# Galleria Doria 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 City, Home to aSt astunningzione â# Monti,1 Esquilino1 1 1 1& 1 1 1 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome �������� 139 wealth ofS aartisticn Pietro Pamphilj Ü# 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Borgo £# # San 1Lorenzo1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Top Experiences ����������������������� 35 Southern Rome ������������������������������������� 140 treasures. (Map p253) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Basilica di # Monti, EBusysq areas,uilin speckledo Colosseum ������������������������������������������ 36 & Prati with glittering churches Santa Maria Vatican Museums ������������������������������� 40 & San andLo someren coolzo Capitoline Maggiore St Peter’s Basilica ������������������������������ 46 Treasure Hunt ������������������������ 143 restaurants. Basilica di Museums â# (Map p252 & 255) Pantheon ��������������������������������������������� 50 The Best ���������������������������������������������146 Santa Maria ä# Museo e Galleria Borghese ��������������� 54 Centro Storico ����������������������������������������148 Isola Roman o in Trastevere Tiberina Colosseum m Palatino ������������������������������������������������58 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale ���������������152 Forum ä# ia Ü# Basilica di on # er Piazza Navona �������������������������������������62 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati ������������������� 156 N Ü# San Clemente tto Palatino ä# do Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ������������157 # que Ac Massimo alle Terme ��������������������������� 66 Trastevere & Gianicolo ���������������������������159 Basilica di Capitoline Museums ���������������������������70 San Giovanni & Testaccio ���������������������� 161 San Giovanni Ü# Via Appia Antica ����������������������������������74 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome ��������� 161 in Laterano Roman Forum ��������������������������������������78 Ancient Trevi Fountain ������������������������������������� 84 Centro Ancient Rome Basilica di Santa Maria del Popolo ��� 86 Bar Open ��������������������������������� 163 Centro Storico Rome Basilica di San The city’s tangled # Terme di No other city has The Best ���������������������������������������������166 Storico Giovanni in Laterano �������������������������� 88 historic centre is Caracalla such an evocative Ancient Rome ���������������������������������������� 168 ä# ancient heart. (Map Spanish Steps ������������������������������������ 90 packed with incred- £# Centro Storico ��������������������������������������� 168 D Day Trip: Ostia Antica �������������������������92 ible sights. (Map Ciampino Airport p246) Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale ���������������170 (12km) Basilica di San Clemente ������������������ 94 p250) 1 1 1 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati ��������������������170 1 1 1 1 Terme di Caracalla ����������������������������� 96 Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ������������ 171 Ostia Anti1ca 1(221km1 ) £# Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) D Modern Architecture ������������������������� 98 1 1 1 1 Stazione Trastevere & Gianicolo ���������������������������175 International A1irpor1t (261km)1 Roma-Ostia Basilica di Santa 1 1 San Giovanni & Testaccio ����������������������177 £# 1 1 £# Maria Maggiore ���������������������������������102 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome ���������179 Trastevere & Gianicolo San Giovanni & Southern Rome Trastevere Treasures �������������������������104 Southern Rome ��������������������������������������179 Enchantingly pretty, Testaccio Encompassing the Galleria Doria Pamphilj ���������������������106 with tangled lanes, Monumental basilicas, beautiful, historic Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica – #æVia Appia ochre palazzi (palaces) Santowering Giov ruins,ann i Antica SouViath Appiaern Antica and Palazzo Barberini ������������������������������108 Trasandte va ebohore vibe. (Map traditional trattorias # ancient catacombs. Day Trip: Tivoli ����������������������������������� 110 to Testaccio & Giap254nic) olo and thumping nightlife. Rome Centro Storico Piazzas...... 112 (Map p255) Literary Footsteps...... 114 ROME PLAN YOUR TRIP 3 *

Showtime ���������������������������������181 In Focus Rome Today ������������������������������������� 208 Centro Storico ��������������������������������������� 184 History ����������������������������������������������210 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale �������������� 184 The Arts ��������������������������������������������218 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati ������������������� 185 Architecture ������������������������������������ 222 Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ����������� 185 The Roman Way of Life ��������������������227 Trastevere & Gianicolo �������������������������� 186 San Giovanni & Testaccio ����������������������187 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome �������� 188 Southern Rome ������������������������������������� 189 Survival Guide Directory A–Z ���������������������������������� 230 Active Rome ����������������������������191 Transport ����������������������������������������� 234 Language ����������������������������������������� 238 Spectator Sports ���������������������������������� 194 Index ������������������������������������������������ 240 Tours ������������������������������������������������������ 194 Rome Maps ������������������������������������� 245 Courses ��������������������������������������������������197 Symbols & Map Key �������������������������257 Spas ��������������������������������������������������������197

Rest Your Head ���������������������� 199 Map Section Accommodation Types �������������������������202 Ancient Rome ����������������������������������������� 246 Seasons & Rates �����������������������������������203 Getting There ����������������������������������������204 Centro Storico ���������������������������������������� 250 Useful Websites �������������������������������������204 Trevi & Esquilino ������������������������������������� 252 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati ��������������������� 253 Trastevere & Gianicolo ��������������������������� 254 San Giovanni & San Lorenzo ������������������ 255 Villa Borghese ���������������������������������������� 256

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©, JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©, KIEV.VICTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, S.BORISOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, JANNIS WERNER/GETTY IMAGES ©, MARCO RUBINO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, CATARINA BELOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MAPICS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, IRINA MOS/SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 4 Plan Your Trip This Year in Rome EMIPRESS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Rome From religious processions and neighbourhood parties to fashion shows, food fairs and major arts festivals, Rome’s calendar bursts with events. Many are played out against atmospheric outdoor backdrops, adding a wonderful sense of occasion.

From left: Natale di Roma (p9); Primo Maggio (p10); Carnevale Romano (p7) This Year in Rome PLAN YOUR TRIP 5

2019 GLORIA IMBROGNO/SHUTTERSTOCK © o Top Festivals & Events Carnevale Romano, Feb Natale di Roma, Apr Lungo il Tevere, Mid-Jun–Sep Estate Romana, Jun–Oct Romaeuropa, Late Sep–Nov MARIALBA.ITALIA/GETTY IMAGES © 6 Plan Your Trip This Year in Rome ERNESTO S. RUSCIO/GETTY IMAGES ©

January As New Year celebrations fade, 1 Alta Roma Late Jan the winter cold digs in. It’s a quiet Fashionistas swan in for the winter out- time of year but the winter sales ing of Rome’s top fashion event. Catwalk are a welcome diversion. shows and events, held in venues across town, provide previews of seasonal col- 3 Tuffo nel Tevere 1 Jan lections by established designers and By now a New Year’s Day tradition, Maurizio emerging talents. Palmulli, a local lifeguard, dives into the icy waters of the Tiber from Cavour after the Gianicolo cannon sounds at midday. Christmas holidays. To mark the occasion, 7 Shopping Sales Early Jan a costumed procession makes its way Bargain hunters flock to Rome’s shops down Via della Conciliazione to St Peter’s for the winter fashion sales. Running from Square. early January, typically the first Saturday of the month, to mid-February, the eagerly z Festa di awaited saldi offer savings of between 20% Sant’Antonio Abate 17 Jan and 50%. Animal lovers take their pets to be blessed at the Chiesa di Sant’Eusebio on Piazza z Epiphany 6 Jan Vittorio Emanuele in honour of St Anthony A witch known as La Befana delivers gifts to the Abbot, the patron saint of animals. Italian kids for Epiphany, the last day of the This Year in Rome PLAN YOUR TRIP 7

2019 PCOSTABALDI/GETTY IMAGES ©

February Rome’s winter quiet is shattered zCarnevale by high-spirited carnival cele- Romano Late Feb–Early Mar brations and weekend invasions Rome goes to town for Carnevale by cheerful rugby fans in town (pictured below), with horse shows, for the annual Six Nations rugby costumed parades, street performers, tournament. fireworks and kids in fancy dress. The program changes each year, but the 3 1 Feb –16 Mar Six Nations Rugby action is often centred on Piazza del The Stadio Olimpico (pictured above) hosts Popolo, Via del Corso, Piazza Navona Italy’s home games during the Six Nations and Piazza del Campidoglio. rugby tournament. In 2019, Italy’s first home game is against Wales on Saturday,

9 February. MARIALBA.ITALIA/GETTY IMAGES z Valentine’s Day 14 Feb St Valentine, or San Valentino in Italian, was a 3rd-century martyr who was executed near Ponte Milvio. His saint’s day is now widely celebrated – some museums and galleries

offer discounted entry, and restaurants © prepare romantic menus.

3 Equilibrio Festival Mid-Feb Performers from Scandanavia take to the dance festival. Past outings have show- stage at the Auditorium Parco della Musica cased dance from Germany and France. for the 2019 edition of this contemporary 8 Plan Your Trip This Year in Rome FPWING/GETTY IMAGES ©

March The onset of spring brings 1 Giornate FAI blooming flowers, rising temper- di Primavera Late Mar atures and unpredictable rainfall. Palazzi (mansions), churches and The city is fairly subdued, and archaeological sites that are generally with Easter not falling until late closed to the public open their doors for April low-season prices still apply. a weekend of special openings, courtesy of Italy’s main conservation body, the 1 8 Mar Festa della Donna Fondo Ambiente Italiano (FAI). To mark International Women’s Day, events are held in museums and cultural sites, many of which offer free admission to women visitors. The traditional Italian gift for the day is a sprig of yellow mimosa MISTERBIKE/GETTYIMAGES © flowers.

z Festa di Santa Francesca Romana 9 Mar Devout motorists congregate on Via dei Fori Imperiali to have their cars blessed on the feast day of St Frances of Rome, the patron saint of drivers.

z Festa di San Giuseppe 19 Mar The Feast of St Joseph, which doubles as Fa- ther’s Day in Italy, is traditionally celebrated by snaffling delicious cream puffs known as bignè di San Giuseppe (pictured above). This Year in Rome PLAN YOUR TRIP 9

2019 POLIFOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

April April is a great month in Rome, z Natale di Roma 21 Apr with lovely, sunny weather, Rome celebrates its birthday on 21 April fervent Easter celebrations, with music, free museum entry, histor- azaleas on the Spanish Steps ical recreations and firework displays and Rome’s birthday festivities. – in 2019 the city will be 2772 years old. Expect high-season prices. Action is centred on Via dei Fori Imperi- ali and the city’s ancient sites. 2 Maratona di Roma 7 Apr Sightseeing becomes sport at Rome’s annual marathon (pictured above; www. maratonadiroma.it). The 42km route starts z Easter 21 Apr and finishes near the Colosseum, taking in Easter is a big deal in Rome. On Good Fri- many of the city’s big sights. day the pope leads a candlelit procession around the Colosseum, and there are other 1 Mostra smaller parades around the city. At noon on delle Azalee Mid-Apr–Early May Easter Sunday the Pope blesses the crowds As per an 80-year-old tradition, the Spanish in St Peter’s Square. Steps are decorated with hundreds of vases of blooming, brightly coloured azaleas. z Festa della Liberazione 25 Apr z Viaggio Schools, shops and offices shut as Rome nei Fori Mid-Apr–Mid-Nov commemorates the WWII liberation of Italy Ancient history is brought to life at the by Allied troops and resistance forces in Imperial Forums with multimedia light shows 1945. (www.viaggioneifori.it) at the Foro di Augusto and, over the road, the Foro di Cesare. 10 Plan Your Trip This Year in Rome MICHAEL STEELE/GETTY IMAGES ©

May May is a busy, high-season month. 3 Primo Maggio 1 May The weather’s perfect – usually Thousands of music fans troop to warm enough to eat outside – and Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano the city is looking gorgeous with for Rome’s free May Day rock con- blue skies and spring flowers. cert (www.primomaggio.net). It’s a mostly Italian affair with big-name local 3 Open House Roma Early May performers, but you might catch the Historic and contemporary buildings that occasional foreign guest star. are normally closed to the public open their doors for a weekend of visits and guided tours during the Open House Roma event (www.openhouseroma.org), designed to GLORIA IMBROGNO/SHUTTERSTOCK © promote Rome’s architectural diversity.

3 Internazionale BNL d’Italia Early May The world’s top players slug it out on the red clay courts of the Foro Italico at the Internazionale BNL d’Italia (pictured above; www.internazionalibnlditalia.com), one of Europe’s top tennis tournaments. annual international show-jumping event 3 Piazza di Siena (www.piazzadisiena.it) towards the end of Show Jumping Late May the month. Set in the attractive confines of Villa Borghese, Piazza di Siena stages Rome’s