Best of Rome 2019
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Rome Even in a country of exquisite cities like Italy, Rome is special. Epic, hot-blooded and achingly beautiful, it’s a heady mix of haunting ruins, awe-inspiring art, iconic monuments and vibrant street life. Rome’s historic cityscape, the result of 3000 years ROME of ad hoc urban development, is an exhilarating spectacle. Ancient icons such as the Colosseum, TOP SIGHTS, AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCES Roman Forum and Pantheon recall its golden age as caput mundi (capital of the world), while barn- storming basilicas testify to its historical role as seat of the Catholic Church. The city’s artistic heritage is also astonishing. Throughout history, Rome has starred in the great upheavals of Western art, drawing the top artists of the day and inspiring them to push the boundaries of creative achievement. The result is a city awash with priceless treasures. Ancient statues adorn world-class museums, Byzantine mosaics and Renaissance frescoes dazzle in art-rich churches, baroque fountains embellish medieval piazzas. Walk around the centre and without even trying you’ll come across masterpieces by the likes of Michelangelo, Caravaggio, Raphael and Bernini. But a trip to Rome is as much about lapping up the dolce vita lifestyle as gorging on art and culture. Whiling away hours at streetside cafes, idling on pretty piazzas, dining in boisterous neighbourhood trattorias – these are all an integral and enjoyable part of the Roman experience. Rome is special...epic, Duncan Garwood, Nicola Williams hot-blooded and achingly beautiful St Peter’s Basilica at dusk MAPICS/SHUTTERSTOCK © £# 0 500 m e# 0 0.25 miles 2 PLAN YOUR TRIP ROME Villa Borghese & Northern Rome # Villa BoEncompassesrghese & the glorious park of Villa Museo e Basilica di NortherBorghesen Rom ande the â# Galleria Santa Maria city’s cultural hub. RMKE CITY Borghese £# NEW RYO del Popolo (Map p256) Ü# Tivoli Contents (32km) £# #æ D Tridente, Trevi & the Via Plan Your Trip Quirinale Dining Out �������������������������������� 117 â# Margutta 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Vatican TridentGlamorous,e, 1Tr1ev1 idebonair1 1 1 1 1 This Year in Rome .................................4 #æ The Best ���������������������������������������������120 Museums Spanish # and1 touristy1 1 1– this1 1is 1 1 1 Hotspots for… ..................................... 18 & the Qui1rin1 a1le 1 1 1 1 1 Ancient Rome .........................................122 # Steps Rome’s1 1 designer-clad1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Top Days in Rome ............................. 20 Centro Storico ........................................122 £# Museo Nazionale soul.1 (Map1 1p250,1 1p2521 1 1 St Peter's Palazzo â# 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Need to Know .....................................28 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale .............. 126 Ü# Romano: Palazzo 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 iver & p256) What’s New ....................................... 30 Basilica Tiber R Barberini 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati ................... 129 Trevi Massimo alle Terme 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 For Free ............................................... 31 Fountain #æ â# Stazione 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ............ 131 £# 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Vatican City, Borgo Termini Family Travel .......................................32 Trastevere & Gianicolo .......................... 134 Vatican Piazza 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 & Prati Pantheon 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 San Giovanni & Testaccio ......................137 Navona#æ Ü# Galleria Doria 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 City, Home to aSt astunningzione â# Monti,1 Esquilino1 1 1 1& 1 1 1 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome......... 139 wealth ofS artistican Pietro Pamphilj Ü# 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Borgo £# # San 1Lorenzo1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Top Experiences ����������������������� 35 Southern Rome ..................................... 140 treasures. (Map p253) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Basilica di # Monti, EBusysq areas,uilin speckledo Colosseum ������������������������������������������ 36 & Prati with glittering churches Santa Maria Vatican Museums ������������������������������� 40 & San andLo someren coolzo Capitoline Maggiore St Peter’s Basilica ������������������������������ 46 Treasure Hunt ������������������������ 143 restaurants. Basilica di Museums â# (Map p252 & 255) Pantheon ��������������������������������������������� 50 The Best ���������������������������������������������146 Santa Maria ä# Museo e Galleria Borghese ��������������� 54 Centro Storico ........................................148 Isola Roman o in Trastevere Tiberina Colosseum m Palatino ������������������������������������������������58 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale ...............152 Forum ä# ia Ü# Basilica di on # er Piazza Navona �������������������������������������62 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati ................... 156 N Ü# San Clemente tto Palatino ä# do Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ............157 # que Ac Massimo alle Terme ��������������������������� 66 Trastevere & Gianicolo ...........................159 Basilica di Capitoline Museums ���������������������������70 San Giovanni & Testaccio ...................... 161 San Giovanni Ü# Via Appia Antica ����������������������������������74 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome.......... 161 in Laterano Roman Forum���������������������������������������78 Ancient Trevi Fountain ������������������������������������� 84 Centro Ancient Rome Basilica di Santa Maria del Popolo ��� 86 Bar Open ��������������������������������� 163 Centro Storico Rome Basilica di San The city’s tangled # Terme di No other city has The Best ���������������������������������������������166 Storico Giovanni in Laterano �������������������������� 88 historic centre is Caracalla such an evocative Ancient Rome ........................................ 168 ä# ancient heart. (Map Spanish Steps������������������������������������� 90 packed with incred- £# Centro Storico ....................................... 168 D Day Trip: Ostia Antica �������������������������92 ible sights. (Map Ciampino Airport p246) Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale ...............170 (12km) Basilica di San Clemente ������������������ 94 p250) 1 1 1 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati ....................170 1 1 1 1 Terme di Caracalla ����������������������������� 96 Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ............ 171 Ostia Anti1ca 1(221km1 ) £# Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) D Modern Architecture�������������������������� 98 1 1 1 1 Stazione Trastevere & Gianicolo ...........................175 International A1irpor1t (261km)1 Roma-Ostia Basilica di Santa 1 1 San Giovanni & Testaccio ......................177 £# 1 1 £# Maria Maggiore ���������������������������������102 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome..........179 Trastevere & Gianicolo San Giovanni & Southern Rome Trastevere Treasures �������������������������104 Southern Rome ......................................179 Enchantingly pretty, Testaccio Encompassing the Galleria Doria Pamphilj ���������������������106 with tangled lanes, Monumental basilicas, beautiful, historic Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica – #æVia Appia ochre palazzi (palaces) Santowering Giov ruins,ann i Antica SouViath Appiaern Antica and Palazzo Barberini ������������������������������108 Trasandte va ebohore vibe. (Map traditional trattorias # ancient catacombs. Day Trip: Tivoli ����������������������������������� 110 to Testaccio & Giap254nic) olo and thumping nightlife. Rome Centro Storico Piazzas ��������������������� 112 (Map p255) Literary Footsteps ����������������������������� 114 ROME PLAN YOUR TRIP 3 * Showtime ���������������������������������181 In Focus Rome Today ..................................... 208 Centro Storico ....................................... 184 History ..............................................210 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale .............. 184 The Arts ............................................218 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati ................... 185 Architecture .................................... 222 Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ........... 185 The Roman Way of Life ....................227 Trastevere & Gianicolo .......................... 186 San Giovanni & Testaccio ......................187 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome......... 188 Southern Rome ..................................... 189 Survival Guide Directory A–Z .................................. 230 Active Rome ����������������������������191 Transport ......................................... 234 Language ......................................... 238 Spectator Sports .................................. 194 Index ................................................ 240 Tours ...................................................... 194 Rome Maps ..................................... 245 Courses ..................................................197 Symbols & Map Key .........................257 Spas ........................................................197 Rest Your Head ���������������������� 199 Map Section Accommodation Types .........................202 Ancient Rome ����������������������������������������� 246 Seasons & Rates ...................................203 Getting There ........................................204 Centro Storico ���������������������������������������� 250 Useful Websites .....................................204 Trevi & Esquilino ������������������������������������� 252 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati ��������������������� 253 Trastevere & Gianicolo ��������������������������� 254 San Giovanni & San Lorenzo ������������������ 255 Villa Borghese ���������������������������������������� 256 CLOCKWISE