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Welcome to Rome An intoxicating cocktail of haunting ruins, iconic monuments, awe-inspiring art and vibrant street life, Italy’s hot-blooded capital is one of the world’s most charis- matic cities. It’s la dolce vita (the sweet life) at its Italian best. Rome’s historic cityscape, the result of 3000 years of ad hoc urban development, is an exhilarating spectacle. Ancient icons such as the Colosseum, ROME Roman Forum and Pantheon recall its golden age as TOP SIGHTS, AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCES caput mundi (capital of the world), while barn- storming basilicas testify to its historical role as seat of the Catholic Church. The city’s artistic heritage is also astonishing. Throughout history, Rome has starred in the great upheavals of Western art, drawing the top artists of the day and inspiring them to push the boundaries of creative achievement. The result is a city awash with priceless treasures. Ancient statues adorn world-class museums; Byzantine mosaics and Renaissance frescoes dazzle in art-rich churches; and baroque fountains embellish medieval piazzas. Walk around the centre and without even trying you’ll come across masterpieces by the likes of Michelangelo, Caravaggio, Raphael and Bernini. But a trip to Rome is as much about lapping up the local lifestyle as feasting on art and culture. Whiling away hours on a sun-baked cafe terrace, getting lost in backstreet alleys and hidden piazzas, indulging in sunset aperitivi (evening drinks) in on-trend cocktail bars, dining after dark in raucous neighbourhood trattorias – all this, too, is part and parcel of the exquisite Roman experience. …a trip to Rome is as much about lapping up the local lifestyle as feasting on art Nicola Williams, and culture Alexis Averbuck, Duncan Garwood, Virginia Maxwell The Colosseum (p36) F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK © 000-title-opener-bo-rom4.indd0-title-opener-bo-rom4.indd 1 221/05/20191/05/2019 11:54:20:54:20 PPMM 2# 0500m N# 0 0.25 miles Villa Borghese & 2 Northern Rome This is where you’ll find A the glorious park of Museo e Villa Borghese and Basilica di A Galleria the city’s cultural hub. Santa Maria KE CITY Borghese (Map p252) Contents 2# NEW RYORM del Popolo A Tivoli Plan Your Trip (32km) 2# r Tridente, Trevi & This Year in Rome .................................4 Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore ....108 Vatic the Quirinale Hotspots For... ....................................18 Trastevere Treasures ......................... 110 Tride Vatican A Glamorous, debonair Top Days in Rome ............................. 20 Craft-Cocktail Culture .......................112 Mon A Museums Spanish A and packed with Need to Know .....................................28 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Tra s tourists: this is Rome’s A Steps Antica – Palazzo Barberini ...............114 2# Museo Nazionale designer-clad soul. What’s New ....................................... 30 San St Peter's Palazzo A A Romano: Palazzo For Free ...............................................31 Day Trip: Tivoli ................................... 116 Villa River (Map p245) Basilica Tiber Barberini Trevi Massimo alle Terme Family Travel .......................................32 Sout Fountain A A Stazione # 2Termini Dining Out ................................119 Piazza Pantheon A Vatican City, Navona A The Best... ..........................................122 Sho Stazione Monti, Esquilino & Top Experiences ......................... 35 BorgoSan & PietroPrati San Lorenzo A Ancient Rome .........................................124 Clas 2# A Colosseum .......................................... 36 Home to a stunning Busy areas, speckled Basilica di A Centro Storico ........................................124 Live wealth of artistic Santa Maria with glittering churches Vatican Museums ...............................40 treasures, the Sistine Vatican City, Borgo & Prati ................... 128 Thea Capitoline Maggiore and cool restaurants St Peter’s Basilica .............................. 46 Chapel among them. Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale .............. 129 Club Museums A and bars. (Maps p245 Pantheon ............................................. 50 (Map p253) & p255) Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ............133 Cine A Walking Tour: Isola Roman Trastevere & Gianicolo ...........................135 Tiberina Colosseum Centro Storico Piazzas ...................... 54 Forum iamo A Basilica di on San Giovanni & Testaccio ..................... 139 A Museo e Galleria Borghese ................56 A Villa Borghese & Northern Rome.......... 141 Act Palatino A San Clemente Palatino ............................................... 60 A Southern Rome ......................................142 Cycl Acquedotto Ner Piazza Navona .................................... 64 Walk Basilica di Museo Nazionale Romano: San Giovanni A Spec Palazzo Massimo alle Terme ............. 68 Treasure Hunt ........................ 145 in Laterano Capitoline Museums ...........................72 Food The Best... ..........................................148 Via Appia Antica ..................................76 Centro Storico .......................................150 Centro Storico Ancient Rome Roman Forum...................................... 80 A Terme di Vatican City, Borgo & Prati ....................153 The historic centre’s Caracalla No other city has Trevi Fountain ..................................... 86 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale .............. 154 tangled streets are A such an evocative Basilica di Santa Maria del Popolo ... 88 2# Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ............159 packed with incredi- Ciampino Airportancientr heart. The Walking Tour: Literary Footsteps ..... 90 (12km)Colosseum, Palatino Trastevere & Gianicolo ..........................160 ble sights, including Basilica di San Giovanni and Roman Forum are palaces, piazzas and Ostia Antica (22km) in Laterano ...........................................92 San Giovanni & Testaccio ..................... 162 2# ruins. (Map p250) Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) r all here. (Map p246) Stazione Spanish Steps..................................... 94 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome......... 163 International Airport (26km) Roma-Ostia Roman Market Meanders .................. 96 2# 2# Day Trip: Ostia Antica ........................ 98 Bar Open ................................. 165 Basilica di San Clemente ................ 100 Trastevere & Gianicolo San Giovanni & Southern Rome The Best... ..........................................168 Enchantingly pretty Testaccio Via Appia Encompassing the Terme di Caracalla ............................102 A Ancient Rome .........................................170 and largely car-free, Monumental basilicas, Antica beautiful, cobbled Via Modern Architecture.........................104 with labyrinthine towering ruins, A Appia Antica, one of the Centro Storico ........................................170 lanes, ochre palazzi traditional trattorias world’s oldest roads, (mansions) and a boho and thumping nightlife. lined with historic vibe. (Map p254) (Map p255) catacombs. 000-title-opener-bo-rom4.indd0-title-opener-bo-rom4.indd 2 221/05/20191/05/2019 11:55:03:55:03 PPMM Imag The By: K Keyw CONTENTS PLAN YOUR TRIP 3 tion, ture, foun gree land orna relax * sum vaca 108 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati .................... 171 110 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale ...............172 In Focus Tride .112 Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ............172 Rome Today .....................................208 MED Trastevere & Gianicolo ...........................175 History ..............................................210 LPT0 Tour 114 San Giovanni & Testaccio ......................176 Architecture .....................................218 116 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome..........178 The Arts ........................................... 223 Cred Southern Rome .....................................180 The Roman Way of Life ....................227 119 Keyw Showtime ................................ 183 Issue 122 Survival Guide .124 Classical Music & Opera .......................186 Directory A–Z .................................. 230 .124 Live Music ..............................................186 Mon Transport ......................................... 234 128 Theatre & the Arts ................................ 188 Language ......................................... 238 SHU 129 Clubbing .................................................191 Imag Index ................................................ 240 .133 Cinema ...................................................191 Rom Rome Maps ..................................... 244 .135 di Sa Symbols & Map Key ........................256 139 Sant .141 Active Rome ........................... 193 ica a .142 Cycling & Scootering ............................ 196 Rom Walking & Running ................................196 Rest Your Head ...................... 201 By: v Spectator Sports ...................................197 Accommodation Types .........................204 145 Food & Wine ..........................................198 Where to Stay ........................................205 Keyw 148 basil 150 cath .153 cross 154 gold .159 land 160 papa 162 naiss sant 163 vatic 165 Anci 168 MED shut .170 Rom .170 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: KAMIRA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©; VAIVIRGA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; Cred S.BORISOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; ANYAIVANOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; MARCO RUBINO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; TRAVELER1116/GETTY IMAGES ©; TTSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; NEJRON PHOTO/ SHUTTERSTOCK © Keyw ruin, colum cultu 000-title-opener-bo-rom4.indd0-title-opener-bo-rom4.indd