Bozahouses, Coffeehouses and Taverns in the Light of the 16 and 17 Century Court Records of Istanbul
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WHERE PEOPLE MET: BOZAHOUSES, COFFEEHOUSES AND TAVERNS IN THE LIGHT OF THE 16TH AND 17TH CENTURY COURT RECORDS OF ISTANBUL by Sultan Toprak Submitted to the Graduate School of Arts and Social Sciences in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts Sabancı University August 2014 WHERE PEOPLE MET: BOZAHOUSES, COFFEEHOUSES AND TAVERNS IN THE LIGHT OF THE 16TH AND 17TH CENTURY COURT RECORDS OF ISTANBUL Approved by: Tülay Artan …………………………………… (Thesis Supervisor) Yusuf Hakan Erdem …………………………………… Hülya Adak …………………………………… Date of Approval: 05/08/2014 © Sultan Toprak 2014 All Rights Reserved Abstract WHERE PEOPLE MET: BOZAHOUSES, COFFEEHOUSES AND TAVERNS IN THE LIGHT OF THE 16TH AND 17TH CENTURY COURT RECORDS OF ISTANBUL Sultan Toprak History, MA Thesis, 2014 Thesis Supervisor: Tülay Artan Keywords: bozahouse, coffeehouse, tavern, intercommunal relations, court registers, Istanbul This study is an exercise in discussing intercommunal relations through certain public venues –bozahouses, coffeehouses and taverns- in Istanbul by looking at 16th and 17th century sharia/kadı court registers (sicils). Since these businesses were both work and meeting places for people from various backgrounds, they are supposed to contribute to the intercommunal relations. In order to explore this issue, I used the court records as main primary sources as they offer a variety of information about the sale, exchange and disposal of these commercial enterprises as well as the social environment in which they were operated. Besides, most of the secondary sources discuss these businesses by focusing on certain patterns such as historical formation and political control which can be gleaned from a variety of primary sources, but their public character has not been analyzed in consideration of intercommunal relations through the court records. Due to this gap in the literature, I have investigated how Muslims and non-Muslims established relationships over these public venues by using the sicils. The registers shed light on economic aspects of aforementioned businesses in terms of business partnerships and rental/sale of shops, but they do not provide enough information on social aspects with regard to intercommunal relations. Rather they offer significant information on food and beverage consumption in bozahouses and taverns as well as on the question of sharing the day and the night in taverns. iv Özet İNSANLARIN BULUŞMA MEKANLARI: 16 VE 17. YÜZYIL İSTANBUL MAHKEME KAYITLARI IŞIĞINDA BOZAHANELER, KAHVEHANELER VE MEYHANELER Sultan Toprak Tarih, Yüksek Lisans Tezi, 2014 Tez Danışmanı: Tülay Artan Anahtar Kelimeler: bozahane, kahvehane, meyhane, cemaatler arası ilişkiler, mahkeme kayıtları, İstanbul Bu çalışmada, 16 ve 17. yüzyıl İstanbul kadı mahkemesi kayıtları kullanılarak, kahvehane, bozahane ve meyhane gibi umuma açık alanlardaki cemaatler arası ilişkiler incelenmiştir. Bu işletmeler, farklı alt yapılara sahip insanların iş yapma ve buluşma mekanları olduğundan, cemaatler arası ilişkileri destekleyici alanlar olarak düşünülmüştür. Bu varsayımı desteklemek için mahkeme kayıtları birinci el kaynak olarak kullanılmıştır; çünkü bu kaynaklar bahsi geçen işletmelerin kiralanması, el değiştirmesi, kullanım hakları ve işletildikleri sosyal çevre hakkında bize geniş bir bilgi yelpazesi sunmaktadır. Bunun yanında, varolan yazın, bu işletmelerin tarihsel oluşumu ve bu yerler üzerindeki siyasi kontrol gibi belli başlı meseleleri ele almakta; fakat mahkeme kayıtları kullanılarak bu yerlerin umumi yönlerini cemaatler arası ilişkiler açısından ortaya koymakta yetersiz kalmaktadır. Yazındaki eksiklikten yola çıkılarak, bu çalışmada, Müslüman ve gayrimüslimlerin bahsi geçen işletmeler üzerinden kurdukları ilişkiler kadı sicilleri kullanılarak incelenmiştir. Yapılan incelemeler sonucunda sicillerin, işletmeler üzerinden kurulan ekonomik ilişkiler –iş ortaklığı ve işletmelerin alım-satımı/kiralanması- konusuna ışık tuttuğu; fakat cemaatler arası ilişkilerin sosyal yönlerini açıklamak konusunda yetersiz kaldığı sonucuna varılmıştır. Sicillerin, daha ziyade, bozahane ve meyhanelerdeki yiyecek-içecek tüketimi; ayrıca meyhanelerde günün ve gecenin paylaşımı hususunda önemli bilgiler sunduğu kanısına varılmıştır. v Acknowledgements I am grateful to those who directly and indirectly contributed to this thesis. First and foremost I express my sincere gratitude to my advisor, Tülay Artan, for her comments and endless support in all stages of this work. She always gave me constant advice and encouragement to express my thoughts and findings despite her busy agenda. Without her instructions, this thesis would not have completed. I would like to acknowledge to my jury members Yusuf Hakan Erdem and Hülya Adak for their valuable comments, suggestions and criticisms that help me to clarify my thoughts. I extend my sincere thanks to all members of the Department of History at Sabancı University. Every course made great contributions to my knowledge and understanding of the past. I am also grateful to Fikret Yılmaz who helped me to realize different approaches to public venues in the Ottoman Empire. This study also acknowledges my dear friends Abigail Rood Bowman and Silvia Ilonka Wolf who contributed to editing process of several chapters and helped me to think how to express my arguments more influentially. I owe my debt of gratitude to the professors of the Department of History at Middle East Technical University. They always supported me in the way to academia. In particular, I wish to thank to Güçlü Tülüveli for his trust and encouragement since my undergraduate education in history. A special mention goes to TÜBİTAK-BİDEB for providing me financial support during my undergraduate and graduate education. Without the material and, even more, the moral, support of my family, I would never finish this work and I would never find the courage to overcome many difficulties. Many thanks must go to my mother, my brothers and my cousin who accompanied me along this road. Finally, I wish to thank to İbrahim Öker for his endless support through this process. He always kept me studying when I wanted to give up my hope to finish this thesis. He gave me a new appreciation for the meaning of love and companionship. With him, I made perfect what Albert Camus said: “I know of only one duty, and that is to love” you. vi TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................................ 1 1. Boza and Bozahouses ................................................................................................ 5 2. Coffee and Coffeehouses ........................................................................................ 12 3. Hamr and Taverns ................................................................................................... 17 4. Thesis Structure ....................................................................................................... 21 CHAPTER 1: BOZAHOUSES, COFFEEHOUSES AND TAVERNS AS WORK PLACES .......................................................................................................................... 22 1. Business Partnerships .............................................................................................. 23 2. Rental and Sale of Shops......................................................................................... 28 2.1. Waqf Shops ...................................................................................................... 28 2.2. Individually Owned Shops ............................................................................... 41 Conclusion................................................................................................................... 43 CHAPTER 2: BOZAHOUSES, COFFEEHOUSES AND TAVERNS AS MEETING PLACES .......................................................................................................................... 44 1. Food and Beverage .................................................................................................. 45 2. Sharing the Day ....................................................................................................... 58 2.1. Clients, Activities and Intercommunal Relations ............................................. 59 2.1.1. Bozahouses ................................................................................................ 59 2.1.2. Coffeehouses .............................................................................................. 61 2.1.3. Taverns ....................................................................................................... 67 2.1.3.1. Sharing the Night ................................................................................ 73 Conclusion................................................................................................................... 76 vii CONCLUSION ............................................................................................................... 77 APPENDIX ..................................................................................................................... 80 REFERENCES ............................................................................................................... 82 viii INTRODUCTION In the early modern Ottoman city, people from different ethnic, religious and social backgrounds came together in certain public venues such as bozahouses,1 coffeehouses, and taverns. These establishments and the marks they left in historical