VOLUME 08 OCTOBER - DECEMBER

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TOM SANDHAM & BEN MCFARLAND THINKING DRINKERS

THE DISTILLED GUIDE TO: FOOD GUIDE TO FOOD

WELCOME TO THE EIGHTH EDITION OF 2019 SPIRITS SUPPLEMENTS 2 WELCOME FROM DISTILLED. 4 THE THINKING DRINKERS 6 AGAVE AFFECTION 10 ALMA DE CUBA Our final Distilled edition for 2019 focusses on a topic 14 CAMERA which I am sure is a firm favourite amongst many of If you fancy something a little different to a sloe gin this us – food! And not just food, but food and spirits – what winter, try Boodles Mulberry Gin. It works as a great 20 DESIGNS ON FOOD a pairing! alternative to port to compliment a rich blue cheese and the berries sweet and tart flavour balances beautifully 24 FOOD PAIRINGS The concepts of the ‘aperitif’ and ‘digestif’ certainly with game and duck dishes. 28 FOUR PILLARS aren’t new ones, but when it comes to matching food to drinks, spirits haven’t always been front of mind. Onto a couple of fruity rums. Hoxton Banana is bottled 30 LIQUEURS GRAND MARNIER SAVOY However, with the growing consumer trend towards at 40% abv so doesn’t have the sweet and sometimes 32 TOP OF THE POP spirits and a range of great brands on the market, it artificial tones of some banana rums. Perfect for sipping really should be one to consider. Our Distilled guide to after an indulgent meal or with a pudding course. RedLeg 36 WHISKEY & FOOD food will hopefully provide some inspiration on how to Caramelised Pineapple will certainly spice up your rum promote spirits with food, particularly, as we approach range. Made with natural caramel and pineapple flavours the important festive season. along with Jamaican ginger and vanilla spices, it’s perfect CHECK US OUT 40 KETEL ONE CITROEN over ice-cream or in your favourite rum cocktail. FOR FULL EXTENDED 42 VILLA ASCENTI GIN To get the taste buds going, the aperitif, usually dry CONTENT PLEASE VISIT and refreshing, is the perfect way to start a meal. Ketel Think chocolate orange and your first thought isn’t 44 CRABBIE’S YARDHEAD WHISKY DISTILLEDUK.COM One Citroen is a staple for a variety of aperitif serves likely to be a gin! The team at Sipsmith have cleverly including a zesty martini or the alternative Andalusian combined orange blossom, black cardamom and raw 46 GIN SUL Buck, sharpened with some manzanilla sherry. cacao nibs to create wonderfully rich, dark chocolatey 48 GLENFIDDICH FIRE & CANE WHISKY character in their juniper-heavy gin. CALL US Next up Villa Asceti gin which uses acutely Italian CALL 0845 072 7092 50 OLD FORESTER BOURBON ingredients including Moscato grapes, fresh mint and Cold brew coffee is creating a buzz across the high TO PLACE AN ORDER 52 BOODLES MULBERRY GIN thyme. Perfect with Italian-style small plates or sushi. street, which you can bring to life with Slane Irish WITH YOUR SALES Sticking with seafood, oysters specifically and not the Whiskey, for a cool twist on the traditional Irish Coffee. MANAGER 54 HOXTON BANANA RUM usual vodka pairing you would expect! Yardhead whisky Make sure you have some interesting coffee serves on 56 REDLEG CARAMELISED PINEAPPLE is sweet and mellow which with sea-salty oysters creates your menu to maximise the spirits opportunity at the end an intense savoury/sweet balance on the palate. of a meal. FOLLOW US 58 SIPSMITH ORANGE & CACAO GIN 60 SLANE IRISH WHISKEY Gin Sul has botanical influences from around the world Finally, our mixer addition from Franklin & Sons is a  DISTILLEDUK – heavily influenced from Portugal and Germany, it also personal favourite of mine. Rosemary tonic water with  DISTILLEDUK 62 FRANKLIN & SONS ROSEMARY TONIC matches nicely with spicy dishes such as curry. It’s got black olive is just a delicious balance of herbaceous and WATER WITH BLACK OLIVE the botanical freshness to slice through the heat and, the salty flavours, which is perfect with a vermouth and effervescence of a tonic mixer, prepares the palate for olive garnish. the next mouthful. Hopefully that has given you some inspiration for pairing Distilled is a trading name of Carlsberg All products are supplied subject to our standard terms and conditions of sale; copies are available For a bit of sweet and spice, Glenfiddich Fire & Cane spirits and food for the winter season as well as getting UK Limited. at www.carlsberguk.co.uk/termsandconditions. By law, we cannot sell or supply alcohol to anyone Customer Contact Centre: 08456 013 432 who isn’t over 18. By placing an order you confirm that you are 18 or over and have accepted is a must try. It may well divide opinions but it’s a great your taste buds going… Carlsberg UK Limited. Registered office: and agreed to be bound by all applicable terms and conditions. Whilst any recommendations or conversation point and perfectly matched with spicy Bon Appétit! Jacobsen House, 140 Bridge Street, representations in this guide or otherwise made by Distilled are given in good faith, you should not foods and meats. Old Forester is a great Bourbon and Northampton, NN1 1PZ rely on them in place of your own independent professional advice. All images are for illustration will jazz up any BBQ-style burger and ribs menu and Katie Hewitt Company number: 00078439 only, product packaging may differ. Details correct at time of going to print. We reserve the right CARLSBERG UK IS A MEMBER OF THE to change details without notice. Errors and omissions excepted. These terms and conditions and perfect in a Smash serve. Category Manager Spirits PORTMAN GROUP – PROMOTING any dispute or claim arising out of or in connection with them shall be governed by English Law and RESPONSIBLE DRINKING subject to the exclusive jurisdiction of the courts of England and Wales. THE GUIDE TO FOOD THE THINKING DRINKERS THE THINKING DRINKERS THE GUIDE TO FOOD

THE GUIDE TO FOOD

We are fans of eating, which is locally and finding ways to align into opening a new bar and the For whisky advice, we turn to Finally there’s a bit of a round-up useful, because food is essential for the kitchen with the bar menu. decisions Phil took, from concept Ervin Trykowski, who as a bar on page 22 for anyone dipping life. Some people argue spirits are This special edition of Distilled to cocktail menu. professional set up the Glasgow a toe into the world of food and less essential, but we tend to ignore pays tribute to some of them, but Bartenders Club, and who now spirits. This provides some top-line these people. Spirits to us are as not all, because there simply aren’t Part of the ambition with this travels the world talking whisky as flavour ideas and the spirits that important as food. Even if medical enough pages to recognise the special edition was to turn a an ambassador for Diageo Malts. might work well with familiar bar experts disagree, we can give them nationwide talent. Even so, we’ve spotlight onto specific spirits, One of the more recent projects for favourites. equal billing in this Distilled special got some excellent examples so we’re delighted that Deano The Singleton single malt whisky edition, because food and spirits across the pages. Moncrieffe took time out to provide was to work with world-famous Hopefully, then, a decent dollop of or cocktails pair brilliantly. Added some tequila talk on page 4. pastry chef and ‘pie king’ Calum inspiration for you; plenty to pile to which, the rise of street food Phil Robins in Edinburgh’s new His new bar Hacha has earned Franklin for an evening to pair onto your plate as you weigh up the culture combined with the casual Camera bar is a fine example to almost instant global recognition his creations with whisky, and we food and drink on menus in your dining phenomenon, has created get you started. The bar sits under and is a stunning blend of delicious report back on the suggestions. own bars. a customer that now demands the restaurant Sonder, and while it agave drinks and fantastic quality chow with a discerning is a separate entity, chef and bar Mexican cuisine. We also talk about the meal that is drink. Food and spirits are now team work together. As a result, chips. Yep, chips. For some people, definitely a thing, and for bar the Camera drinks complement We’ve also taken a look at liqueurs chips are a side dish or snack, but owners, both should be essential. the vibe of the restaurant with a with Grand Marnier and the drinks thanks to Poptata we can now lively palate cleanser that blends of Victor Maggiolo at the Savoy’s consider them our main course. A To an extent we’re preaching to Grand Marnier / Bitters / Sugar / American Bar, and considered gin street food sensation, Poptata has the converted, because the UK Blanc de Blanc and sets you up for after enjoying a dinner where Four chip stalls in sites across London, is packed with bar professionals Sonder’s beef short rib, watercress, Pillars was used in a series and more recently added a bar with who are already working closely soy, pickled onions. Turn to page of dishes. excellent cocktails. On page 30 with chefs, carefully sourcing food 12 to get a fascinating insight owner Marco Maiocchi tells us how the chips work with the cocktails. 4 5 THE GUIDE TO FOOD AGAVE AFFECTION AGAVE AFFECTION THE GUIDE TO FOOD AGAVE AFFECTION AGAVE AFFECTION AGAVE AFFECTION

Last year we were lucky enough to travel to Mexico and sample outstanding tequila with legendary distiller Carlos Camarena in Jalisco, before a trip to Oaxaca where we enjoyed the awesome mezcals of QuiQuiRiQui. One takeaway from the trip, in case there had been any doubt before we travelled, was that agave spirits work brilliantly with food, particularly the native cuisines. Take a blanco, for example: the spice and fresh quality of the spirit are obvious, but with 100% agave tequila you’ll also find a sweet quality. This combination of flavours makes it a perfect pair with seafood, vegetable dishes, but particularly ceviches or crudos. A rich reposado, meanwhile, works brilliantly with fattier meat dishes, the modest oak aging amplifying the sweet notes of agave to pair with spicy pork or beer dishes. Drinking neat tequila in the best Mexican restaurants was a true highlight of the trip.

This relationship between Mexican spirit and cuisine has been part of the British consciousness for a while, but only a Hacha is the name of the rather hefty axe handful of quality bar owners or agave used to split the agave piña in half before aficionados have managed to honour it is cooked. It’s a brutal tool, as it needs to the culture. The iconic Cafe Pacifico in be, because agave piñas are massive and London’s Covent Garden always springs to this is a tough job, but when it comes to mind, and more recently the work of Stuart Deano’s bar, the aligning of food and drink McCluskey in Edinburgh, whose El Cartel flavours is far more subtle and innovative. sites are fantastic. To this end, Deano presents the tequila with flavour enhancers – small edible tasters THE RISE AND RISE OF AGAVE SPIRITS, AND THE Now we can add Deano Moncrieffe and that pair with the flavours of a designated BASIC UNDERSTANDING MOST PEOPLE HAVE AROUND his London bar Hacha to the list. agave spirit. MEXICAN FOOD, MAKES THE MATCH OF SPIRIT AND CUISINE Based in Dalston, this is a venue that AN EASY WIN AT THE BAR. presents agave spirits in all their glory and ‘I wanted to make agave approachable in pairs them with innovative and authentic a unique way, so I pair each spirit with a flavours along the way. specific flavour enhancer that brings out BAR OWNER DEANO MONCRIEFFE KNOWS THIS the characteristics of that particular spirit. BETTER THAN ANYONE, HAVING OPENED HIS OWN AGAVE ‘The main inspiration behind opening Think anything from a mezcal being served SPIRITS AND FOOD BAR HACHA IN LONDON. DEANO HAS Hacha was to make agave spirits more with milky bars, garlic and chilli olives, to WORKED IN THE DRINKS INDUSTRY FOR DECADES, AND IS A approachable in a simple yet new way,’ even beef-flavoured Monster Munch crisps! RENOWNED EXPERT WHEN IT COMES TO AGAVE says Deano. ‘My idea was “less is more”, We have a raicilla, served with 3 drops which is why there are only 25 spirits on my of CBD oil which brings out incredible SPIRITS, SO PROVES THE PERFECT PERSON TO BRING back bar, we call this the agave list. The list earthy and grassy notes and is a stunning PAIRINGS WITH TEQUILA AND constantly changes: whenever I feel like I enhancer that has proved really popular. MEZCAL TO THE MASSES. want to freshen it up, I bring in new bottles.’ We have tequilas paired with anything from Seedlip Garden to chargrilled pineapple soaked in rum.’ 6 7 THE GUIDE TO FOOD AGAVE AFFECTION AGAVE AFFECTION THE GUIDE TO FOOD

There’s a lot of prep, experimentation and the occasional bit of science behind the idea, but in essence, it’s really simple. Deano knows his agave spirits inside out, has selected an eclectic rotating mix of ‘I think it’s fair to say that most of our local styles, and then found some familiar or customers are not coming because they unfamiliar flavour companions to make it are fans of agave spirits; they are coming an education for the customer. And it’s a because they are fans of good cocktails fascinating talking point in the bar, that has and they love the ambience and space we proved incredibly popular with customers. have created. The vast majority have been Hacha has a food menu, and we’ll get to pleasantly surprised by how versatile agave that, but these flavour enhancers have been spirits are.’ a big win. It helps that the bar also looks stunning. Such an offering means Hacha is far from a ‘I would say the biggest surprise has been ‘My partner and business partner Emma novelty. Deano is drawing customers in with how many customers are trying the agave Murphy is the creative director, and she the concept, he’s convincing them agave spirits for the first time, and how they love did everything from the interior design to spirits are worth a try with the serves and the idea of the different flavour enhancer. all of the marketing and branding, so she enhancers, but then he’s encouraging them In just over six weeks we’ve sold around deserves enormous credit for how Hacha to stay for the evening with a food menu 50 bottles of different agave spirits, which looks and feels as a bar.’ that enables them to make a night of it. is an incredible achievement. This has The success is perhaps emphasised by the probably been the most pleasing thing for The flavour enhancers alone earn Hacha a popularity of mezcal here. Once a bartender me, because it backs up my theory that place in this supplement dedicated to food, secret, thought to be too assertive and if you have fewer options then customers but Deano has also ensured the wider food challenging for the customers, the stories are more likely to experiment. I’m 100% menu plays to the strengths of the spirits. and intrigue behind this rustic spirit are convinced that if I had 150 different agave ‘The food was massively important and now genuinely having an impact. Deano is spirits on the list, I would’ve sold a lot fewer we wanted it to be Mexican-inspired with proving that if you can get the punters to different bottles, because too many a Latin twist,’ he explains. ‘The kitchen is the bar and offer an interesting choices can be slightly bewildering for a a resident kitchen by Conga and they are experience, they will be encouraged to try casual consumer.’ amazing. During our development stages something new. we worked closely on the flavours I was Another win for bringing new people trying to create in the cocktails, and how ‘So far, the most popular spirit has been to agave spirits has been the cocktail they would work well with the food; even mezcal, by a country mile,’ he says. ‘Our menu. Designed to be approachable but though we don’t call it a direct pairing it customers are fascinated by the artisanal, interesting, the drinks are also was important that there was synergy small-batch, traditional story behind the recognisable in name but different in between the two. The food is amazing and category. I think there’s an element of appearance and ingredients. has been so well received. My main focus romanticism around it. On average we do was to make everything small plates and around 16 mezcal flights a week and 10 ‘The mirror margarita is a number-one- shareable, because I think that is that the tequila flights a week, which has been a selling serve and it’s fair to say that essence of Mexican community; it’s about big success considering we are 48 covers everyone absolutely loves it. It took about people coming together and having a great (including outside). This doesn’t include three months for me to perfect it, and it’s an time – the food and drink. people just buying a single serve, which is absolutely crystal-clear margarita served very often.’ on the rocks and has all the characteristics ‘We have dishes like a Mexican ceviche and flavours you would find in a regular served on fried breadfruit, yuca chips, On one hand, Hacha is a simple, margarita. It’s tequila-based but I’ve just pulled pork tostadas, Mexican prawns neighbourhood bar in Dalston; others might finally managed to create a mezcal version, on green plantain tostadas; but our even imagine it to be like a ‘theme bar’; which is being launched very soon. most popular dishes are also vegan and but Deano and the team have put so much vegetarian, like the spicy black bean tacos energy and thought into the experience that and spiced aubergine tostadas.’ it is much more than either of these things. It’s a genuine spirits experience. People are coming from all over the country to see what he’s achieved, and perhaps more importantly than that, he’s proving agave spirits can be a real asset behind any bar. 8 9 AGAVE AFFECTION AGAVE THE GUIDE TO FOOD ALMA DE CUBA ALMA DE CUBA THE GUIDE TO FOOD

There was a time, not that long ago, when all you could eat and drink at Alma de Cuba ALMA in Liverpool was a very small glass of red wine and a piece of wafer.

The huge impressive structure, which now houses one of Liverpool’s most impressive DE venues, was once the oldest surviving Catholic church in Liverpool until it closed down in the late 70s.

Mother Teresa even attended Mass there but now those stepping into this building created for the worship of Christ are doing so with entirely different spiritual reasons. Alma de Cuba is a divine drinking and dining concept, one of several venues in Liverpool owned by Signature Living, When designing the menus for both the whose reputation as one of the most restaurant and the bar, Matthew strives innovative and exciting operators in the to create customer journey for guests, UK is continuing to grow – the company regardless of whether they’re a regular is renowned for Liverpool’s newly opened or one of the growing number of tourists football-themed Dixie Dean Hotel, the visiting the city. “Every customer is equally Titanic-themed 30 James Street and a important and from our point of view, portfolio that stretches to Belfast, Cardiff it’s essential that we don’t take them for and Preston. granted or assume that we know what they want,” he said. “We try to cater to all palates While Alma de Cuba translates as “Soul of and give everybody something to love.” Cuba”, the food and drink here draws on all manner of influences with that of Latin It’s essential to not just keep up with fast- America being the most pronounced. The paced food and drink trends but to be seen food offering is accessible and down to as setting them. “Food trends are a constant earth, never pretentious, with dishes that evolution and trends can change from day are honest, well-crafted and designed with to day – the key to a fresh business is to the guest in mind. try and set them rather than follow them,” said Matthew. “I think everyone knows when “Our culinary influences are massively a trend is really taking hold as no matter varied! While we are a Cuban-themed where you go to eat or drink you get almost restaurant, we have to remember that our a carbon copy of the last place you went.” guests are in Liverpool for a huge number of reasons,” says Matthew Cox, Signature In terms of drinks trends, Instagram and Living’s Group Executive Chef. “So, we try social media have catalysed change. “What to reflect the DNA of the restaurant in our was laughed at a couple of years ago as CUBA menus; they’re vibrant, colourful, spicy, being kitsch, old fashioned and obsolete is Latin and most of all loved.” now the go-to drink in the bars in the city. 10 11 THE GUIDE TO FOOD ALMA DE CUBA ALMA DE CUBA THE GUIDE TO FOOD Essential to Alma de Cuba’s approach is the close collaboration between the bar and the kitchen “The two absolutely need to ALMA work together in order for the business to The mantra at Alma de Cuba is that “it’s Another pairing occurs after the main function,” said Matt. “On a day to day basis, never too early for a cocktail”. Staff are course, with a profitable glass of port paired they talk, discuss and probably argue about trained to only suggest cocktails with food with the dessert and cheese board. “This is flavour pairings and how each team can where appropriate. “We try to make sure a nod to tradition and not something that support the other.” that food and drink is never pigeonholed everyone goes for. However, it is the most “It doesn’t take a lot to change trends as and that no combination is too ‘out there’,” natural of combinations, the sweetness of social media is responsible for everything “The bar cannot upsell drinks to diners explains Matthew. “Within reason, our bar port and the saltiness and tang of a good changing at warp speed. 20 years ago it without the diner being there in the first offering should complement every item on blue cheese,” added Matthew. would take people multiple nights out to place. Also, a diner won’t stay long in the our menu. There are some that are probably be aware of a new trend or gimmick, now restaurant without good service and a a push – like a cocktail with a bowl of soup “Tradition has lasted for a long time for it can be shared in minutes. As the name perfect drink to accompany their meal.” and a steak – but in general we try and keep a reason. Staff are well versed in what to suggests, influencers are also responsible Matthew admits that, in terms of margin and everything accessible to all.” recommend but we don’t forcefully sell for changes and demands.” GP, there is traditionally more money to be anything and it is only ever a suggestion to made from beers and wines. “But that gap As ever, communication with the customer enhance the offering. That, and I love port!” While one eye needs to be kept on culinary is getting smaller as people’s tastes and is key. “It’s important to learn more about trends emerging from elsewhere, creativity palates develop and they like a more refined your guest as there can be a multitude of In light of the success of aperitifs such as in the kitchen is key to the business. The wine or a craft ale.” reasons why they may not want cocktails,” the Aperol Spritz and the Negroni, the pre- Head Chef and her team are given 100% added Matthew. “The sooner you can learn dinner moment also represents a profit- freedom to experiment and test anything what their evening is about, the sooner you making opportunity – and proof that trends they think will work best for their restaurant know what their drink expectations might can appear from unexpected sources. – and have the final say on anything be. A quick bite to eat after work before coming into the kitchen or ultimately driving home is obviously not the correct “Not too long ago, Aperol would have been going on the menu. time to be pushing our alcoholic cocktails a bottle gathering dust at the back of the but if it’s a date night that will end in a bar or bar. It’s absolutely the same for the Negroni club, then that changes everything.” as well, I can remember a time not too long ago that it was a very real conversation to Whenever you increase the secondary remove Campari, vermouth and Aperol from spend, there is always potential for profit the bars. Now they are a big part of drinks and upsells are the past, present and poured each and every weekend.” future of all successful businesses. “A well drilled service and bar staff that are always With a multitude of booths on the ground pushing high margin, positive GP drinks will floor, a substantial chunk of spirit sales are “We run specials, so we’ll introduce items CUBA support the business through all dips and presented by bottles sales – often before or daily if time allows,” added Matt. “We do troughs” added Matthew. “As long as each after a meal. wholesale changes to the menu quarterly, element of each drink is well-costed, and roughly in line with the seasons. But the your sales staff are competently trained “It’s a phenomenally huge part of the fluctuating British weather can catch you then profit is attainable.” business as we are now so well known unaware – it can be quite embarrassing to for our booth packages,” added Matthew. launch a summer menu in rain and freezing As part of their training, all staff must try all “There’s an even split between gin and sleet, but it’s been known to happen!” the dishes and cocktails on the menu and vodka and they are both drinks that can go the company organises mini cook-offs when with a variety of mixers – but what they start Essential to Alma de Cuba’s approach is the new staff start; and a big all staff cook-off drinking to what they end up drinking is close collaboration between the bar and when the menu changes. sometimes wildly different.” the kitchen “The two absolutely need to work together in order for the business to One of the most popular dishes on the function,” said Matt. “On a day to day basis, menu is one that draws on a classic Cuban they talk, discuss and probably argue about cocktail from Havana – the Mojito Lamb. flavour pairings and how each team can “It’s a very clever dish that works on two support the other.” influences, with mint being the predominant flavour of a mojito and the most natural of accompaniment to lamb,” said Matthew. “It tastes amazing, as well as potentially being a signature dish for us for years to come! Our wonderful Head Chef is completely responsible for this.” 12 DE 13 THE GUIDE TO FOOD CAMERA CAMERA THE GUIDE TO FOOD IN THE WHAT HAVE YOU TRIED TO CREATE? We’ve tried to create a place where people feel happy, relaxed and comfortable, regardless of whether they are the only person in the room or every seat is taken. Over the years, most of the bars I’ve worked in have thrived on really high energy. I always loved the idea of a bar PICTURE as a sanctuary, rather than somewhere you felt as though you were just being swept along by everyone else’s mood or behaviour. In Camera, by the time guests have been seated, they should have had three hellos from the team: one at the door, one by whoever is on the floor and one from whoever is behind the bar. Our menu is designed and worded in such a way that hopefully nothing feels intimidating and TELL US ABOUT THE BAR no questions feel silly. Our music is very We’re called Camera, and opened in April carefully curated to be wonderful and 2019 in the south side of Edinburgh, really interesting, either as the background to near The Meadows. Three of us worked on your conversation or if you are sitting and the overall dynamic of the place; the style, listening intently. We hope that the little the flow and how we wanted it to feel. points of detail put guests at ease and build I think it’s the perfect number because a mutual trust and respect over the course we all brought a different perspective and of a visit. approach, but there was always someone to cast a deciding vote if it was necessary. At the time, I was reading a book and the WHY IS IT A UNIQUE PROPOSITION expression ‘in camera’ came up between FOR EDINBURGH? a lawyer and the main character. I’d never I think what we are hoping to do is heard it before so did a bit of research and encourage people to relax into their night PHIL ROBINS HAS RECENTLY OPENED THE CAMERA BAR it turns out it’s a legal term for ‘in private’. out a little bit more, make it a bit less of a The direct etymology of the word ‘camera’ mission and a bit more of a slow and steady IN EDINBURGH, BASED BENEATH THE RESTAURANT is Latin, and it translates as ‘vault’ or thing. As a bar, you’ve got a responsibility ‘chamber’. In a very literal sense, a camera to make tasty drinks for people – that’s SONDER. HERE HE GIVES A FASCINATING INSIGHT INTO is something that captures a moment and the most basic requirement, making sure creates memories, so we all felt the name you clean your beer lines regularly, your HIS APPROACH TO SETTING UP A NEW BAR, AND THE was a nice fit for our little basement bar – a glassware is well maintained, etc. On top private space to take a moment to of that, it is totally up to you how much you RELATIONSHIP THE BAR HAS WITH THE RESTAURANT. yourself or share with people you enjoy celebrate your guests and how you go about being around. doing that. We’ve worked that back so every action has a purpose, and at each step we try to take the focus away from a server and customer relationship, and build it into a much more human interaction. 14 15 THE GUIDE TO FOOD CAMERA CAMERA THE GUIDE TO FOOD

WHAT HAS GUIDED YOUR CHOICES? Above all, quality and tastiness. That doesn’t mean to say we only stock ‘premium’ products. Out of our three Scotch whiskies at the moment, only one of them costs us over £40 per bottle, but every guest who has wanted a whisky has been blown away by whichever one they have been recommended. We want everything on the bar to be accessible for anyone out looking to have a nice time, and hopefully in the process of making them feel comfortable through the overall experience, they come across and try something they haven’t tried before. WHAT ARE YOU PARTICULARLY PROUD OF? I’m proud of the simplicity of our drinks. Working towards simplicity in every facet of life and work is quite a difficult thing to achieve, I think, and I’ve never really bought into things just being done for the sake of it or because they are ‘on trend.’ I think if you set out your own objectives and try and stick to them, rather than trying to hit someone else’s brief of what’s cool or whatever, you end up with something with way more integrity and authenticity. We’ve tried to have a lot of fun with our drinks and make sure they are relatable. The first drink on our first menu is a drink we described as ‘Robinson’s diluting juice for people pretending to be grown ups’. It puts people at ease and is a really tasty low-ABV number made with Aelder Elderberry Elixir, thyme liqueur, apple vinegar and pressed apple HOW IMPORTANT IS THE ROLE OF WHAT IN YOUR OPINION IS THE BEST BLEND juice. I had caught up with the guys at Aelder while we A PRE-DINNER DRINK? OF FLAVOURS AND TEXTURES THAT PREPARES were still in the planning stage of the bar, and had been I think we are still very set in our ways in THE PALATE FOR FOOD? so impressed by their ethos and how they went about terms of the structure of going out for I love fine bubbles. I’m not a big champagne their business. It’s nice to try and buck the trend of bars a meal in this country. It’s nice that the drinker at all but in one of my first bar jobs, HOW IMPORTANT HAS YOUR SPIRITS demanding support from the booze brands, and try starter/main/dessert format has slowly we stocked Ruinart Blanc de Blanc. An SELECTION BEEN? and throw all the guys who are doing great work some started to fall by the wayside over the last absolute baller had come in, smashed a Our spirits selection was hugely important support the other way, no strings attached. I think it few years and we are starting to adopt couple of glasses and left, so we all had a in the overall makeup of the bar. First makes for much more genuine relationships. I also have eating and drinking rituals from countries glass and I’d never thought about bubbles and foremost, a lot of thought went into a soft spot for the Strega Sour we popped on early that just do it better than us. The pre- like that before. They were so perfect and constructing an offering that motivated bells. It was our first ever market menu drink and was dinner drink perfectly showcases how our fun. I think the smallest splash of soda the team through the creativity they are made with Strega, lemon juice, chocolate bitters and drinking attitudes are starting to change, changes everything, and especially when encouraged to showcase. We’ve tried to some foaming agent. Again, the construction of this too, with the widespread adoption of Italian guests don’t know it’s there, it plays a nice be as ruthless as possible in how many drink couldn’t be simpler, but using the Strega for all of spritz culture the most obvious example. game with their tongue and palate. Rhys just of each spirit we stock, to force us to do the sweetness and using so few ingredients for a drink The way we laid out the first drinks list for put a drink on the market menu using lemon our research and only stock products with so many layers of complexity in terms of flavour Sonder was under the titles Pre-Dinner yoghurt along with some pisco, Porter’s the whole team is behind. It’s easy to and texture, I think that’s what this drinks making thing Suggestions, Accompaniments and After Tropical Old Tom and white chocolate. write a list of 20 of your favourite albums, is all about. Rhys (our bar manager) has subsequently Dinner Indulgence. It didn’t really work at Although it sounds more suitable for after but it’s much harder to pick your top come in and taken the drinks to a whole new level, but all, and so the team have reworked it now dinner, it’s soft and silky and the tartness three. Secondly, we wanted to champion I like to think I gave him the platform to shine, like when based on what guests seem most drawn of the drink gives it a wonderful length too: producers who are trying to break the you can’t open a jar and give it to someone else who towards. As far as specifically pre-dinner perfect for a pre-dinner palate cleanser. mould and don’t necessarily fit easily into an does it no bother. You’ve always got to let them know drinks go, I think it can have a huge bearing Flavour-wise, I really think you can go in any existing category. Our back bar is laid out you loosened it for them. on the overall enjoyment of your whole direction. The Cocoa Collins at Coupette in geographically to encourage conversation evening, but ultimately it shouldn’t be Bethnal Green is hands-down the best and make it easier for the team to interact overthought. Highballs and spritzes make ‘pre-dinner’ drink I’ve ever had. I was with guests in a way that is interesting for the most sense to me, and mean you can be smiling the whole way through it. Again, rum both parties. consistent and experimental easily and at and cacao don’t seem like flavours you’d the same time. necessarily associate with pre-meal, but it did pretty cool things to my mouth. My kind of meal prep. 16 17 THE GUIDE TO FOOD CAMERA CAMERA THE GUIDE TO FOOD

“WE ONLY WHAT IS THE MARKET MENU CONCEPT? We wanted to keep our main menu super HAVE FIVE tight and concise, as we wanted it to be a stepping stone for guests to order purely based on their flavour preferences. We only COCKTAILS have five cocktails on our main menu, and the market menu is the bridge between guests wanting to play it safe and going ON OUR completely into the unknown. The ultimate aim of the market menu is to encourage creativity and ownership from the team MAIN MENU” and get live feedback from guests. It also gives guests a fair bit of ownership as to what makes it onto the main menu, as we encourage them to be as vocal as possible in terms of what they like and dislike about the market menu drinks. We go for singular flavour descriptions as names for the drinks, such as Grass, Strawberries and Liquorice Allsorts. The market menu is set up to be fun, practical and interesting.

DO YOU WORK WITH THE CHEF FOR INSPIRATION IN THE COCKTAILS? OR VICE VERSA? Definitely. Paul’s palate is unbelievable, and he is as honest as they come so doesn’t hold back. He often suggests combinations HOW DO YOU APPROACH THE MATCHING WHAT IS IT ABOUT THE RELATIONSHIP AND he thinks will work or something he has OF SPIRITS AND COCKTAILS WITH FOOD? CONCEPT BETWEEN BAR AND RESTAURANT worked on that turned out better than With cocktails, usually I would start by looking at THAT SETS YOU APART? he thought it would. A lot of the time, the whether it would make more sense for the drinks to It might be a total cop-out but we are just blueprint won’t turn into a dish that is menu- complement or contrast with the food. I think ratios doing what we do. I think if you set out to worthy, but the components will give us of booze are hugely important, as not only do you not try and do something to try and please inspiration for a drink. want the drinks totally taking over the palate, but you everyone, you can end up a bit lost and really don’t want guests to be steaming halfway through without an identity. We have looked at the WHAT IS THE CHEF’S VIEW ON THE BEST their meal. So watch the ABV. Change up the textures. building as a whole, the area and the city we DRINK PRE DINNER? Keep servings relatively small. Make sure they fit with are in, and tried to get the most out of all of Paul quite likes his short, boozy numbers the menu visually. Meanwhile, every spirit can be used those things. We have a young, hungry team before or after dinner. We did a drink with in food pairing. I usually tend to use younger spirits and and have set up in a way that encourages Cynar, Ocho, grapefruit and soda which was it’s easy to lean more towards light, clean spirits, but it’s them to look at the bar as their own. We a big pre-dinner hit with the kitchen team. probably more exciting to try and go bold and then rein want people who come in to be blown away As far as ‘the best’ goes, he wouldn’t give a in the big flavours of, say, whisky or a big dirty by how much the team love what they do. I straight answer, as he would argue that that Jamaican rum. think if you start there and then continue to depends entirely on setting, company and analyse, develop and learn, then you’re on what you’re having for your dinner. to a winner.

18 19 DESIGNS ON FOOD THE GUIDE TO FOOD

The city is fast emerging as an inspirational bar scene, but with a burgeoning street food culture that has cleverly crept into the cocktail culture.

With this in mind, we asked Catherine Gwynne of 2G Design and Build (www.2gdesignandbuild.com), a company responsible for the design of some of the best bars in the city, to offer up some ideas. Here she turns her focus to foodin bars and how to best communicate this area of your business, considering everything from ‘Instagrammable’ features to efficient and functional bars and even the toilets.

WHY IS DESIGN IN A BAR SO CRUCIAL We often zone areas, which should be done TO THE BUSINESS? subtly through colours and materials, but can create an area that allows comfortable Design of the bar itself is key because eating. This is how we created Tap & it becomes a focal area and can be an Tandoor, a bar we created in Solihull that incredible source of creativity. It will give serves Indian street food paired with craft customers a perfect first impression, and a beer. We needed to create a space that well-designed bar reflects the personality of allowed families and friends to come and a place. It can define a space and allows the enjoy a comfortable meal but also an ever-desired ‘instagrammableness’. inviting space for the drinking consumer – who could have a snack or simply enjoy the Most importantly, the design of the bar eclectic bar drinks menu. The venue can be Design is is crucial for functionality and efficiency. very full at weekends, and the combination Many people ignore the detail of the design works very well. of their bar, and so overlook the elements a crucial of flow of people (for both employees and It’s worth noting that it’s highly popular customers). This impacts the efficiencies to open up kitchens to show that this is of how to serve during peak times. We have an offering, and lighting is imperative in element of recently redesigned The Cuban Embassy in portraying the right environment for the Moseley for that exact reason. They had a type of cuisine in the right environment. compact bar in the middle of the venue and it meant staff were leaning over each other getting a food to create cocktails at speed. We moved the bar to the side of the venue and created a long serving area with individual cocktail offering working in stations. This has meant they can serve a lot more customers quickly, with more the bar; one city that space for customers to drink. ARE THERE ELEMENTS OF DESIGN THAT HELP COMMUNICATE THAT THE BAR we’ve noticed getting SERVES FOOD? A design is unique to an area; it should reflect the personality of place, so subtle this spot on nods to the food are crucial to tie in the two. In practical terms, seating is important to design of a space that serves food, so: is Birmingham. comfortable and accessible seating. 20 21 THE GUIDE TO FOOD DESIGNS ON FOOD DESIGNS ON FOOD THE GUIDE TO FOOD

ARE THERE ELEMENTS PEOPLE OVERLOOK?

Toilets in all bars are becoming increasingly HOW IMPORTANT IS CONCEPT? important. When serving food, there has been research to say that people judge the Concept is imperative. We start every standard of food by the toilets. But another design with defining a concept. The element that must be considered is the concept is the backbone of the entire world of social media. A well designed, WHAT ARE YOU MOST PROUD OF IN TERMS OF THE project. The concept is a collection of quirky toilet is gold dust for bars wanting PROJECTS YOU’VE WORKED ON AND WHY? design elements that sets the tone and presence on Instagram – people love a direction, and reflects everything that good toilet selfie! These often work within We are proud of many projects for you are about and what you are trying to a concept, and themed toilets are a lot of different reasons: achieve – this will work into the detail of fun! We worked on Café Colette, where – The work at The Cuban Embassy was a project that colour, texture, patterns etc. art deco was the theme throughout, and had a clear aim of bringing efficiency to the designed four separate toilets that worked business, while giving the feel you have just jumped We have worked with Alex Claridge on like this. Each one was unique and quirky into the heart of Havana. We absolutely achieved Nocturnal Animals and The Wilderness, – we used inspiration from a number of this, and footfall has increased notably. It has also which are different reflections of his sources including Miami Vice and flapper- allowed more space for the food in the evenings personality. The concept was crucial to girl ‘powder rooms’. The result was exactly that matches the style of the bar. understanding this and the atmosphere the effect we wanted. – Our work on Nocturnal Animals was to build the he wanted to create. The Wilderness space with the many intricate design elements and is a good manifestation of his vision ARE THERE ANY COMMON DESIGN reflect the personalities within the design. The and cuisine, for example, and worth MISTAKES BARS WILL MAKE WHEN result is a high-standard build that is an checking out. It’s hard to advise on a TRYING TO COMMUNICATE THE FOOD Instagrammable wonderland. It is a bar that has general concept for anyone reading this SIDE OF BUSINESS? absolutely combined an incredible bar area with and starting from scratch; genuinely a restaurant. every project is unique, and styles and There are a lot of mistakes … but some – Tap & Tandoor was a very run-down pub in a failing concepts are unique to every one. [factors] that come to mind instantly are: area, and we needed to bring a whole new lease of life to the place and to subtly intertwine Indian – Music and acoustics of a place that street food with craft beer. It needed to welcome allow an inviting atmosphere for families, beer drinkers, cocktail drinkers, sport eating customers; watchers and foodies all within one venue. – Furniture layout – having the right The design was crucial to this, and it has become furniture to be multi-purpose; an absolute success story as it immediately – Efficiency of the layout so as to allow worked, and venue number two is currently for an efficient flow of people that can being completed. combine a busy drinking environment – The Wilderness needed to ensure it reflected the with an enticing space for those ‘rock and roll fine dining’ that Alex is well known for. wanting to enjoy food; It reflects his fine-dining taster menus yet also – Many places are redesigning a the informality and uniqueness of Alex himself. historical site where food was not an – As mentioned, the build of Café Colette to reflect offering (i.e. an old run-down pub/bar). the art deco and the awesome design of the toilets, Therefore, a re-launch and redesign has been a great Instagrammable treat! We were (with the elements discussed above) proud of what we achieved there. is crucial to take old impressions away and give people an incentive to try the cuisine. With all designs you must WHAT ARE YOU MOST PROUD OF IN TERMS OF THE always respect the loyal base as well as PROJECTS YOU’VE WORKED ON AND WHY? give new customers a reason to visit. BlackTail in New York and Lyaness in London are amazing. Also, a bit less obvious – but incredible – is Bar The Clinic, in Santiago, Chile. This is a political bar where menus for the food are on newspapers, yet it creates an environment that is informal and inviting for the drinker and the foodie… 22 23 THE GUIDE TO FOOD FOOD PAIRINGS FOOD PAIRINGS THE GUIDE TO FOOD

Not everyone reading this will be trying to present customers with complex cuisine, but with a focus on some simple standards you start to learn that most food can be enhanced But venture wider on the meat and look to with the appearance of some spirits. Here are seasoned chicken dishes with an alternative a few very basic flavour suggestions that can spirit upgrade. Jerk chicken for example with simple Appleton rum highball serve, cover popular fare from the kitchen. work in Jamaica, so should work in your bar. Wray & Ting was once a thing when we were young drinks writers, it still works, the overproof rum is lifted by the citrus and STARTERS you can garnish with some lime or mint to Depending on the scale of your seafood improve the aesthetic. haul, you might not expect to bait the customer with an ocean of options. But Hawksmoor is an essential reccie for any even if you put a little fish on, just for the meat lover, and the group has always put halibut, you can find some easy pairing cocktails high on the agenda. Pay particular wins. If you’re looking to pair spirits with attention to the drinks menu, which has light fresh starter dishes, try gin with shrimp. been arranged in order of occasions – Sounds a bit fishy but seriously, list it and so pre dinner and post dinner serves to then reel them in…. it’s a real oppor-tuna- MAIN match the mood of the customer. Another ty (that’s enough now, we’re floundering). While it was meat ‘n’ veg when we were must-visit is MEATliquor, particularly the We were impressed by the combination in Belvedere and 30ml sweet white vermouth growing up, it’s increasingly just veg for a lot new site in Regent Street, on the site of the California, and to be more specific, it was in a spritz glass over ice, top with soda of people. And for those who still require the old Match Bar it has put strong emphasis with a martini, but it was the zest water to top, add two or three chunks of meat, it’s always ok to go with meat on the cocktail menu and the excellent and botanical spice of the gin with the grapefruit and garnish with a thyme sprig. ‘n’ whiskey. Shooting From the Hip (El Jimador tequila, lightly seasoned sea food that blackcurrant and citrus goes with just about combined marvellously. Staying with salmon, you could attempt MEAT anything – it’s also served in a huge hip flask the Scandinavian traditional aquavit with Having just returned from Dallas Texas, which is a nice touch. Pairing gin with seafood shouldn’t come as a smoked salmon, gravlax and cured fish. we can highly recommend anything bbq’d total surprise, gin and Oysters for example, Very low on prep, but enough to provoke with American whiskey. One of the best Meanwhile, since we’ll have a gin martini that has long been a combo, but the point is, a bit of conversation with the customer. culinary experiences of our lives was at the with anything and since one of the best seafood and spirits can be a surprising but Another vodka to consider here would be Pecan Lodge, at the famous ‘Pittmaster’ martinis you’ll find is served at Happiness successful package for the punters. the Icelandic spirit Reyka, a really clean, – a plate of Brisket, pulled pork, sausage, Forgets in London, we aren’t averse to one grain vodka that has the added talking point topped with slaw, bbq sauce and fresh in the bar’s sister restaurant Petit Pois. Son of A Gun in LA offers up a shrimp toast of being distilled using sustainable energy sliced jalapeños. We were there with the It pairs perfectly with the fantastically sandwich with hoisin, herbs and sriracha from geothermal heat. exceptional Texas Single Malt Balcones, seasoned but simple steak frites and mayo which pairs perfectly with an aviation and whether served neat or as a whisky and knock-out Bernaise sauce. off their classics menu. Gins like Villa But experiment, Mark Hix who has made a soda, it really does combine beautifully with Ascenti, with its pungent and assertive beautiful job of blending brilliant cocktails all or any of that meat. Italian botanicals, herbal and a slight mint with his cuisine, and once suggested a as well as citrus gives you an idea of the Lagavulin butter to go on a lobster. After In the supplement listings you’ll find Old seasoning scope. our own experience of pairing Isla whisky Forrester, a stand up bourbon, and bourbon with freshly caught shellfish by the water is a useful ally in meat matching since the Vodka with caviar is more obvious, if a little at the Lagavulin distillery, we can attest spirit has the oaky assertive tannins to cut indulgent, but vodka works across the more this is a quality combination. Islay whiskies through the fat, but with strong caramel and textured, often meaty fish, or something in general are a great addition to food vanilla to match with flavours in the meat, a little oily and salty like smoked salmon. pairing plans, the smoke of a whisky like particularly a burger. In fact, try the Belvedere Spritz served up Laphroaig 10 Year Old for example, provide with a simple salmon dish and celebrate the an assertive backbone to subtle dishes, or contrast between oil, fat and smoke with indeed cheese dishes or chocolate at the light, carbonated citrus. Simply pour 30ml end of the meal. 24 25 THE GUIDE TO FOOD FOOD PAIRINGS FOOD PAIRINGS THE GUIDE TO FOOD

BIT OF AFTERS We’re not suggesting After Eights here, although put We once read a science article that them of the menu with a Grasshopper and you might suggested eating chocolate after dinner can be surprised at the uptake. Rather, this is more about enhance the absorption of the amino acid a luxury chocolate serve that plays to the strength tryptophan. We don’t know what tryptophan of some specific luxury spirits, so our favourite is, nor why enhanced absorption would be combinations: beneficial, but it sounded like a defence for VEG eating the stuff, so we nailed a Snickers Duo Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva – when the spirit itself Vegan and vegetarian options can be with a clear conscious. tastes like chocolate you’re off to a great start and in equally inventive of simple. The Hug & Pint this luxury rum, you’ve got aromas of mocha and vanilla in Glasgow is a great example of what can Chocolate is about the easiest score any that convert on the palate with caramel and then an be achieved with this style of fare. The bar has for an upsell at the end of night. If unmistakable chocolate flavour hitting the middle of the award-winning vegan restaurant offers a you serve food and people eat dinner with palate. This is the master of the chocolate pairing, there ‘Boozy Brunch’ for £20 – three dishes and you, they will automatically think about are no real limitations, making it one of the essential three drinks of choice, including cocktails. desert. Such psychological motivations offerings on a post-dinner menu. The rum brand Much of the food has an Asian influence have been drilled into us from when the recently teamed up with luxury chocolatier Paul Young and it’s here that the vegetable dishes will first mush passed our toothless gums to spectacular effect. The Cornish Sea Salt chocolate shine, with the spice and stodge of curried as babies - eat your greens and you get is particularly appropriate if you’re dropping any pirate dishes a perfect foil for high ball or spritzed pudding. Sometimes people (weirdos) entertainment with your post-meal rum pitch. up cocktails. decide not to finish dinner with desert, but even these people (weirdos) will be craving Quiquiriqui Mezcal – When we perform in Edinburgh Beer is a little ahead of the pairing game, something sweet, it’s forced nature. This is we stay around the corner from Chocolate Tree in the but Bundobust in Leeds is another useful where a simple offer of some chocolate will Bruntsfield neighbourhood. These folks have picked up research trip, the vegetarian dishes are rarely be turned down, and if you stick the on the Spanish conquistador love of cacao in Mexico based on Indian street food and largely opportunity on a menu with an interesting and have subsequently soaked the ancient criollo suggested with craft beer. But the parallels spirit, you can score a sneaky upsell. hybrid cacao of Tabasqueño in Mezcal. Pretty amazing between the textures and consistency of stuff. It works brilliantly with the smoke of a neat mezcal the dishes with the spirits pairing is obvious. serve and Quiquiriqui is ideal with the smoke being The Desi 75 for example mixes Sipsmith’s slightly sweeter and subtler than some of the more sloe gin, lemon juice and cinnamon syrup rustic mezcals out there. topped with Prosecco and pairs beautifully with the Bhel Puri a samosa pastry, with Sipsmith Orange & Cacao – Considering there’s a puffed rice, peas, red onion and tomato hefty dose of juniper in this gin, there’s an incredible tossed in tamarind chutney and topped with marmalade rind aroma and a state of dark chocolate pomegranate seeds. And if you want to get with candied orange and Madagascan vanilla. Made with truly creative, try something in the glass orange blossom and cacao nibs, before resting the gin that will match the fruits and spices on the on fresh orange zest there’ also a long-finish of fresh plate, Hoxton Banana Rum for example, pine and ginger spice. It’s a beautiful spirit, loads going infuses both dried and fresh ripe bananas on and a simply luxurious serve. But there can be no for five weeks, and works brilliantly neat more appropriate pairing than with a segment from a or in a cocktail next to some spiced Indian Terry’s Chocolate Orange. banana fritters. Courvoisier VSOP – Finally Cognac and chocolate is a sure fire winner, with plenty of tradition attached as a pairing. Courvoisier VSOP is a great spirit for introducing people to Cognac, and could be served as a refreshing long drink at the end of the meal, there’s no reason you have to stick to convention. But the Courvoisier range is a great example of how you can offer neat sipping variety. Due to the way they select their eau de vies from independent producers, you’ll find a broad style at Courvoisier and if you broaden your knowledge you’ll see how one house provides a varied flavour palate. The key then is to really understand the cognac in question and then potential offer a flight with chocolates to match and really turn the pairing into an experience. 26 27 THE GUIDE TO FOOD FOUR PILLARS FOUR PILLARS THE GUIDE TO FOOD

The Yarra Valley in Australia may be a long “We make a ‘Metropolitan Negroni’ that is jam-pack way from Yorkshire but there’s a Barnsley- filled with Coffee beans, and after the maceration born chef doing some seriously innovative process we sent those beans to Frank Body (a well- stuff down there with gin. known coffee bean body scrub brand) and they got made into a Negroni Body Scrub,” added Matt. Matt Wilkinson, who owns the Pope Joan While there’s clearly a commercial benefit to these eatery in Melbourne and runs the Pie Shop products, sustainability is an equally important driver. business, has joined forces with the Four “In finding a new way to reutilize the spent botanicals we Pillars Gin to create some culinary delights are lowering the original energy inputs into growing the using the distillery’s spent byproducts spices,” said Matt. and botanicals. “Sustainability has always been one of Four Pillars Three years ago, Matt had already hosted Gin core beliefs. One big venture for Cam Mackenzie a “Gin Pig” dinner at Pope Joan, where he (co-founder/head distiller) and I is to potentially dry used botanicals to wash a pig with – before the botanicals and make cattle feed from them. I have smoking the pig over an open fire pit. had the used botanicals tested and they have a high Inspired by this, and coupled with a passion amount of minerals. We are also looking into ways of to reduce food waste and reuse food repurposing the water we use to clean the stills.” products, Matt began playing around with the spent ingredients from producers that One of the ingredients in the botanical basket used to he admired. make their Navy Strength Gin are finger limes, local to Australia. “They have an incredibly unique flavour but “I got addicted to the spent gin botanicals,” they are quite bitter and we’re thinking of trying to make said Matt. “There is still great flavor in the a pilsner lager out of them. Watch this space!” spent botanicals and citrus we use in the A gin-making, and that for me is a minefield With his chef’s hat on, Matt reckons the favourite dish of other opportunities and ways to he’s created with the Four Pillars botanicals is the gin- repurpose them.” washed and gin-smoked Yarra Valley Salmon Caviar. “It really is amazing and would work on any restaurant Matt has been handed a mission to create menu,” added Matt. “I also think we are a first to make a host of innovative products using gin and Gin Vinegar, using the spent botanicals and potentially byproducts of the distilling process used the water from washing the still – it’s a new, unique for a variety of different gins, which include long product.” whole oranges, Tasmanian pepperberries, lavender and other spices. In terms of pairing, Matt combined with Jimmy Irvine, Four Pillars Creative Director of Drinks, to come up with Four Pillars has created Gin Pig (where a series of gin cocktails to match the food menu used at Yarra Valley Berkshire pigs are fed with Matt’s Gin Pig dinners and Four Pillars events. leftover gin botanicals after a distillation), marmalade made from the oranges that are One of note was a cocktail called Purple Yamos, made used to make the gin, gin-washed cheese, way with Four Pillars Bloody Shiraz Gin, purple yam, whey chocolate made from gin botanicals, and and citrus. “It’s an incredible drink but surprisingly Christmas puddings made using their paired brilliantly with “Gin Pig” pigs in a blanket and Christmas gin which they make once a year. baby cucumbers that I had marinated in the spent botanicals then mixed with chilli, sour cream and dill,” As well as some awesome ice creams, the said Matt. next of Matt’s ideas to hit shelves will be the Salt & Four Pillars Gin crisps. Yet it’s “I have heaps of ideas and I’d love to get them all into not just food ideas he’s developing – smoke from production and out into retail shops but we are taking pellets, facial cream for men and meat rubs our time to carefully tailor each one,” he added. “We are in the Four Pillars pipeline – oh, and a also need to strike the right balance and remember that body scrub. we make really great GIN first and really good ‘Made from Gin’ products second.”

28 Yorks hire 29 THE GUIDE TO FOOD LIQUEURS GRAND MARNIER SAVOY LIQUEURS GRAND MARNIER SAVOY THE GUIDE TO FOOD

collaboration with The Savoy’s executive The 50th anniversary of the chef, Fabrice Lasnon, to create the menu. Apollo Moon landing has, quite rightly, “Each section lists cocktails with certain key spirits – we wanted to create three been the cause of much celebration and sections with drinks that shared the same flavour profile,” added Victor. commemoration this year. In the “Music” section, cocktails made with rum, vodka and bubbles were designed to be light and refreshing in style and accompanied by light dishes such as oysters and caviar. Within the “Drama” section, darker spirits such as cognac and whiskey come to the fore in bode, richer styles that could accommodate bigger food flavours such as a sharing assortment of satays.

When pushed, Victor picked out his favourite pairings: “I like vodka with oyster or caviar but also “The Tempest”, a very delicate rum cocktail with notes of Green apples, pears and hints of smoke, that is coming out from drops of Islay peaty whisky: the contrast between the saltiness of the seafood and the sharp freshness of the drink is great!”

Within the “Drama” section, he suggests something smoky too – a cocktail called “There’s a wide array of flavour notes and “Birnam wood”: a powerful, smoky, salty I think it could be also a great aperitif if drink with an Islay whisky as the main paired in a good way,” added Victor. “I would ingredient. “There are some herbal notes But amid the widespread hailing of arguably As well as champagne and grapefruit juice, the go for some aged cheese or also some good coming out from Chartreuse and Seedlip humankind’s greatest achievement, few have key component of the cocktail was the iconic charcuterie, something that could balance which goes perfectly with the mentioned that Buzz Aldrin took a bottle of wine French liqueur Grand Marnier, a mix of fine the sweetness of the liqueur, adding some tuna tataki, cutting through the richness to the Moon with him. Yes, he may not have been cognacs and distilled essence from wild, tropical ice to the liqueur or some kind of bubbles to and creaminess of it – it’s one of my the first man to walk on the moon, but he was oranges. Fifty years on, it is also the fulcrum in lengthen would also definitely help.” favourite pairings.” certainly responsible for ensuring there was a bit the “To the Moon and Back”, a commemorative of an atmosphere up there. cocktail created by Victor Maggiolo, the senior And what would he pair with the “To the Guests, however, are welcome to combine bartender at The Savoy’s Beaufort Bar. Moon and Back”? “It can be enjoyed as an drinks and food from different sections. On their return to Earth, the first alcoholic drink aperitif, with some fresh seafood, or with “Everyone has different palates,” added Aldrin and Armstrong enjoyed in 1969 was the “It’s a little twist on the classic “Moonwalk” some bruschetta with olive oil and chopped Victor. “I always encourage to pair drinks historic “Moonwalk”, a cocktail inspired by their cocktail and an elegant mix between a spritz cherry tomatoes, Mediterranean style,” with food that could enhance their drinking legendary lunar journey. It was sent to them in a and a champagne cocktail,” said Victor. “It’s a added Victor. experience, at The Beaufort Bar we have an flask by Joe Gilmore, the then head barman of bittersweet combination between Campari, a amazing champagne selection by the glass, The Savoy hotel’s American Bar – who received a cordial of rosebuds and grapefruit peel, Grand The Beaufort Bar has placed the pairing and an incredible spirit selection as well. letter back from Neil Armstrong thanking him and Marnier, all topped up with Champagne.” of dishes with its beautiful drinks at the Our bar wants to elevate the guest drinking saying it was the first drink they had when they forefront of their current menu, which experience, and food should be functional came out of quarantine. It’s a drink inspired by both of The Savoy’s famous is divided into three sections – “Music”, to that.” bars – the classic cocktails of the American “Magic” and “Drama”. “Since I joined the Bar and the DNA of the Beaufort Bar, born as Savoy three years ago, we are putting more a champagne bar back in 2010. Victor strongly and more stress on the importance of believes that Grand Marnier has the versatility serving food according to our drinks – in to be more than something to be simply enjoyed fact, at the moment we would say that the during that after-dinner moment. food is created according to the drinks.” Victor and his team worked in tight 30 31 THE GUIDE TO FOOD TOP OF THE POP TOP OF THE POP THE GUIDE TO FOOD

Chips are almost incomprehensibly amazing. They combine simplicity with satisfaction like almost no other culinary dish. Are they a ‘dish’? Maybe some people see them as side dish. Dunno, either way, they’re flippin’ brilliant. In case you’re not sure of what chips are, they’re just potatoes really, cooked in a different way to the other potato styles – you TOP know, like mash, roast, jacket, dauphinoise, bravas, that sort of carry-on. Boiled? No, not boiled please.

Interestingly, the top search became the kings of street Although integrally linked to on Google for ‘chips’ offers fries and now have sites in the success of the fries, Marco up the motorcycle cop show Croydon and Shoreditch created the bar as its own CHiPs, which makes Google Boxparks, Portobello Market entity. ‘The bar has elements of seem a bit at odds with our and Tooting Market. cool urban design with vibrant own valuation of the chips you splashes of colour to enhance eat. The Americans call them What the folks at Poptata have its fun and edgy cocktail fries, which seems strange, done is realise that as beautiful offering,’ he says. ‘The central but for them chips are crisps, as chips are, they deserve a bar is surrounded by copper- which might explain this Google little more respect, and as a finish high stools, as well as an anomaly. But the Americans result they have turned a simple assortment of intimate seated are wrong. They are chips. culinary serve into something tables, and communal benches Having said that, chips are wonderful, memorable and for larger groups. Industrial- OF THE fried potato, and they start to stand-alone. If you serve chips style fixtures will be offset by appear in early European texts in your bar, take notes. a wall of foliage; the aim was with the note that they are fried to create an Instagram-worthy potatoes, so fries might be more It’s in the Tooting site that backdrop to the whole bar. universal. Regardless, this is just things get more relevant to semantics: the point is, chips drink, because it is here that ‘The aim with our approach to really are incredible. the owners recently opened drinks was simply Being POP! a bar, proving that perhaps We don’t have to forget our The folks at Poptata are already the best thing to have with a roots and where we are located. well aware of how important portion of chips is a quality We started as a street food chips are, and they call them cocktail. Named Top of the business in 2015 and we are fries. Set up in 2015 as a stall Pops, the cocktail bar operates located in a street food market, at the Portobello Market in upstairs at the Tooting Poptata, so our menu is POPular but with London, Poptata’s street food offering playful cocktails, craft our twist. To help, the cocktails spin on fries was the brainchild beers and wines to accompany have been named with influence of Marco Maiocchi and Luca Poptata’s signature premium from the POP ART movement.’ Sammartino. Identifying a gap in street fries. the street food offering, they set Like any new bar, the spirits about peeling and cutting the The creative selection of drinks selection is important to Marco best potatoes they could source includes a Gin & Tonic trolley and his team, and while the fries by hand, frying them twice at as well as cocktails on tap. are crucial, there has to be a different temperatures and then The tap bar has an espresso common sense consideration of adorning them with everything Martinis and Aperol spritz, what they stock on the back bar. POP from cheese to smashed while the signature cocktail avocado, chorizo, chicken and menu offers botanical twists on pulled pork. Suddenly they classic cocktails. 32 33 THE GUIDE TO FOOD TOP OF THE POP TOP OF THE POP THE GUIDE TO FOOD

‘With our Guaca fries (cheesy But whatever your approach fries, smashed avocado, to food in the bar, the Poptata halloumi and mild spicy sauce) story is inspiring evidence that we would obviously recommend any addition to the menu can a margarita, but for the halloumi earn a place with a cocktail fries it would really depend pairing, and as a culinary on the dips. With the banana enthusiast it’s no surprise to ketchup it would be something hear Marco is passionate about Coffee-infused Campari exotic maybe with rum, and aligning great food with drink. with the pink garlic mayo a Gin pink gin spritz, which is very ‘Generally speaking, food is a Instagrammable!’ must!’ he says. ‘Think about Cocchi Vermouth di Torino it. Look what’s happening in One of the best spirits coming London in most of the food and up against fries might be vodka, market halls, you’ll see how the simply because it is such a central bar is increasing sales clean, pure spirit. Unlike some being surrounded by different of the richer meats or spicy street food vendors.’ vegetarian dishes in the street food world, fries can be more We agree, and even if you’re

Negroncino subtle, so the vodka doesn’t not sure of your food offering, overpower any flavours. The know that a simple serve of Girlie Door cocktail on Marco’s chips with great cocktails could menu is a great case in point, help the business. mixing Belvedere Vodka, Luxardo Maraschino, pineapple, ‘The spirits research started Of course, chips are not an and Belvoir Raspberry and after an accurate analysis of the entirely unique addition to Rose Cordial. demographic of the area,’ says quality cocktail environments. Marco. ‘We are certainly looked Years ago Milk and Honey made at trends and new products, a point of serving great chips and want to get a good balance in a very high-profile member between local and well-known bar; then you have the recent brands without giving up our opening of the new MEATliquor core values. We see these as in the old Match Bar site in being unique while combining London, where again, chips simplicity with quality. prove the perfect garnish to excellent cocktails. ‘Gin remains an evergreen So, could chips prove to be the trend, so you can’t ignore it, ultimate bar snack? Better than but there’s an amazing growth nuts, crisps? Spiced rum in tequila and mezcal sales right now. Meanwhile in south ‘Certainly, yes,’ says Marco, Ancho Reyes London, spiced rum is a ‘especially if freshly cut and strong product. cooked to order, like we do. Ginger beer Chips are extremely good as ‘Low-ABV drinks are on trend, well as suitable for everybody, Angostura bitters especially at the beginning of due to an almost zero content the week, and another fast- of allergens. growing trend that is actually one of our bestsellers is our ‘When it comes to pairing with

SPRITZ (Aperol, elderflower drinks, we find that bubbly long in When Portobello and Limoncello).’ drinks work very well. They clean out the palate from the oil of the chips and the fat of the cheese. 34 35 THE GUIDE TO FOOD WHISKEY & FOOD WHISKEY & FOOD THE GUIDE TO FOOD

Taking a whisky style and flavour profile is On the highball serve, I think a simple essential when matching with food. If you offering like The Singleton and Soda is are a bartender, tasting a whisky neat is vitally important when breaking down always the best place to start, especially if misconceptions around whisky. People you are looking to match it with or create are too quick to pigeonhole Scotch, and a cocktail. A deep understanding of the for years we have been telling people how whisky – not only the flavour notes but finish not to drink it; advice like, Don’t add ice, and texture – is essential if you want to don’t add water, you certainly never put create something world class. single malt in a cocktail. But when you serve Scotch with a bit of energy and a bit If you are looking to convince a customer of excitement in a new way, people tend on pairing whisky with food, then whether to get on board. The Singleton and Soda, it’s neat or with a cocktail serve depends on or highball, is the most important drink for who you are talking to. I start every pairing us to bring people into the complicated event or dinner with a highball: this is a world of single malt. It bridges the gap great way to open up the palate and bring between Scotch enthusiasts and complete people on board who aren’t necessarily newcomers: it’s still seen by experts as Scotch whisky drinkers. It’s important to showing Scotch off in a positive way, and it’s bring people into the category, and serving brought down to an ABV that people who someone a neat 43% Scotch isn’t always aren’t used to drinking neat spirits can get the best way to go about it. I often start with on board with; all at the same time showing cocktails and finish with a neat or Scotch off the quality single malt inside. on the rocks, and that helps the customer understand the versatility of Scotch. WHISKEY & ANYTHING Ervin Trykowski spent years Scotch whisky has the most diverse flavour profile of any spirit, ranging from light and honing his craft as a bartender in fruity all the way up to robust smoky. This the best bars, and also set up the means that we have a plethora of options when thinking about matching with food, Glasgow Bartenders Club. He now and also means that Scotch whisky can be works as the global Scotch Whisky paired with almost anything. Ambassador for Diageo, and here tells us why the spirit is the perfect foil for food.

36 37 THE GUIDE TO FOOD WHISKEY & FOOD WHISKEY & FOOD THE GUIDE TO FOOD

THE PERFECT SERVES

Looking for the ultimate food and whisky pairing, here’s what Ervin had to say: ‘Talisker with an oyster. Sorry for the short answer but it’s just perfect.’ But in a bid to expand the repertoire a bit, The Singleton recruited world-famous pastry chef and ‘pie king’ Calum Franklin for an evening to pair his creations with whisky; the results were stunning and emphasised the versatility of a single malt. Beyond the customer, though, one of the out small samples that look like neat Scotch most important relationships when pairing but are actually cocktails. It will surprise whisky with food is obviously between people and elevate their experience. What’s bartender and chef. It can make or break crucial is to remember that this is why TINNED CURRY JELLY a business but also elevate experiences people go out now: it’s not for just food and SALMON & TOAST PIE & to new levels if you get it right. Bartenders drink any more; it’s to experience something learn from chefs about the pairing of they can’t do at home. SANDWICHES & CHIPS ICE CREAM flavours, but the bartenders can also help chefs understand which Scotch can If you’re looking to learn, the best whisky Singleton-whisky-cured Slow-cooked curried lamb Singleton-infused jelly dome elevate their drink to the next level. The bar in my experience has been Black Rock, salmon and asparagus terrine, shoulder, onion and potato pie, (made with vegetarian gelatine) biggest things we have learned from them in London. Primarily because it’s about topped with pickled shallot wrapped in a pithivier-style suspending summer berries are techniques and mise en place. The a whisky menu, it’s about the way they rings and caviar, set inside a domed shortcrust pie case, sat on a hazelnut ice cream way bartenders now prepare ingredients describe the spirit and the clever approach ring pull tin – sealed and to be served with a mango salsa and and genoise sponge sandwich. wouldn’t have happened without the to organising whisky in the cabinet. The opened at the table. Toasted chip shop curry sauce in jugs. The finished dish looks like influence of chefs. best whisky menus aren’t written down but rye miniature bagel and sliced Pressed, thinly sliced confit an edible snow globe, and recited by someone who lives and breathes pickled gherkins served to potato chips dusted in salt and the jelly wobbles on the top For the people who approach whisky and the spirit. The best whisky bar in the world is accompany. Vegetarian option: vinegar served to accompany. when the plate is moved. food, the opportunities are endless, and The Pot Still, for this very reason: you never Mediterranean vegetable Vegetarian option: curried root Whisky: Singleton Scotch Mist: one thing that never fails to amaze me is know what the guys are going to put in front terrine. Whisky: Served with The vegetable pie. Whisky: The Glenfiddich 15YO, blackcurrant how the world makes Scotch their own. I of you, but it’s always an experience. Singleton Seaside Soda, made Singleton Trade Route, made up jelly, tonka ice cream and a was in the Philippines, eating Balut – which up of Singleton 12YO, of Balvenie Doublewood 12YO, delicious aroma. definitely falls into the unusual category If you’re looking to put whisky on a chip shop cordial, lemon soda pineapple and turmeric sugar – and afterwards washed it down with a menu, then don’t position your malts and caperberries. and Angostura bitters. It comes Singleton and Soda. Not a food paring I’d geographically but by flavour. Not everyone served in an old-fashioned-style jump back to, but it was most certainly an is born with an understanding of whisky glass with a block of ice. experience. Bartenders should really open distilleries, regions or complex production up their minds to all possibilities. methods, but everyone can understand and experience flavour. So just describe what But if you feel the customer isn’t ready, then these whiskies remind you of or taste like, recreate that ‘Classic Scotch moment’ with and structure the menu around that. a twist at the end of a dinner. You can send 38 39 THE GUIDE TO FOOD KETEL ONE CITROEN KETEL ONE CITROEN THE GUIDE TO FOOD

KETEL ONE CITROEN 40%

£19.01 PER 70CL VODKA APERITIF

According to the saying, when life one from Spain, which delivers a With wheat at its base and distilled gives you lemons, you should make full, distinctive character; and one in copper stills, each batch of Ketel lemonade. But that seems to be an from Guinea, West Africa, which One Vodka is personally approved acutely unambitious approach – injects an intense taste. by a member of the Nolet family why not do like the Nolet family did, prior to bottling. Acutely authentic and craft a quality vodka? Limes also play a part, with the and steeped in loads of history vodka’s citrus freshness coming and distilling heritage, Ketel One Back in 2000, the famous Dutch from two varieties sourced from Citroen is magnificent in as a distilling dynasty created Ketel One the Caribbean. Both citrus fruits classic martini; but if you’re looking Citroen Vodka, a citrus vodka that come to the fore on the nose: for an alternative aperitif, the ANDALUSIAN BUCK was a deftly designed departure refreshing sweet lemon zest and a Andalusian Buck – sharpened from those less-authentic subtle hint of lime. with some manzanilla sherry – is a 35ML KETEL ONE CITROEN VODKA alternatives whose ingredients may superb yet straightforward serve 20ML SHERRY lack integrity. The palate is beautifully balanced; that will skilfully stimulate the a touch of tartness followed by salivary glands ahead of a meal. 20ML FRESH LIME The Nolet family, whose distilling freshness, conjuring up strong, TOPPED WITH GINGER SODA & TWO heritage dates back more than freshly cut, zesty lemons amid 300 years, makes this vodka by a full fruit bowl of flavours. Soft DASHES OF ORANGE BITTERS infusing its flagship vodka with in mouthfeel but with a beautiful GARNISHED WITH A LEMON WEDGE citrus essential oil essence. They citrus bite and tang, the finish use four types of lemons – two provides a long and rich lemon from Sicily, which imbue the vodka custard send-off. 1. BUILT IN THE MULE CUP with a lovely, lively rich sweetness; 40 41 THE GUIDE TO FOOD VILLA ASCENTI VILLA ASCENTI THE GUIDE TO FOOD

41% VILLA ASCENTI VILLA ASCENTI CLASSICO (SHARING COCKTAIL) £25.81 PER 70CL GIN SUSHI 125ML VILLA ASCENTI GIN 500ML PROSECCO 125ML SODA WATER A SPLASH OF SYRUP

1. COMBINE THE INGREDIENTS IN A SHARING CARAFE 2. GARNISH WITH FRESH HERBS & GRAPES 3. SERVE OVER PLENTY OF ICE

Last spring saw drinks giant Beyond the use of classic smooth with a soft sweetness Diageo strengthen its hand in the botanicals, Villa Ascenti also and a flurry of summer fruit on the gin market with the unleashing of uses acutely Italian ingredients finish. Terrific lengthened with tonic an artisan, Italian gin produced including Moscato grapes, fresh and magnificent in a Martini, it can using ingredients from the hills mint and thyme – and the herbs are sit on the dinner table in a carafe of Piemonte. hurried into the still within hours of designed to be shared. harvesting. The Moscato grapes, Villa Ascenti, a super-premium meanwhile, are picked in August The Villa Ascenti Classico, Italian gin, is created on a Frilli and September when the fruit is at lengthened with sparkling wine, copper pot still from the 1970s that its best, before undergoing a trio of is an ideal accompaniment to has been refurbished as part of a distillations – the most significant small Italian-style plates, while £360,000 investment that has also being the final distillation, during Villa Ascenti also suits the subtle seen the building of a brand-new which the grapes are infused with flavours of sushi… distillery in Santa Vittoria. Tuscan juniper berries in the Frilli copper pot still. The creation of Villa Ascenti is overseen by Master Distiller and What comes off the still combines locally trained winemaker Lorenzo the classic gin flavour profile with Rosso, who has more than 20 years the spirit of the Piemonte region. of experience working with both Opening up with lively juniper, mint the grape and the grain. Lorenzo, and thyme on the nose, the palate born and bred in the Piemonte is straight out of Piemonte with the region in the northwest of Italy, flavours of those Moscato grapes, works hand in glove with local synonymous with the region, producers and farmers to source enhanced by an ABV of 41%. local ingredients. It’s fresh, it’s light, and it’s seriously 42 43 THE GUIDE TO FOOD CRABBIE’S YARDHEAD WHISKY CRABBIE’S YARDHEAD WHISKY THE GUIDE TO FOOD

CRABBIE’S YARDHEAD WHISKY 40%

£15.44 PER 70CL WHISKY OYSTERS

SAILOR’S SAVIOUR 25ML YARDHEAD 10ML LIME CORDIAL 2x DASHES OF ANGOSTURA BITTERS GINGER BEER

1. BUILD IN A TALL GLASS AND GARNISH WITH A LIME WHEEL

Yardhead Whisky is a modern dram and the palate, with sweet vanilla Ginger Beer (aka ‘The Sailor’s deliberately designed to disrupt the coming off the American whiskey Saviour’) suits spicy buffalo chicken world of Scottish single malts. casks, while fresh fruit, vibrant wings: the carbonation from the citrus notes and a rich rum-like effervescent mixer cleanses the The latest addition to the range mellow finish. palate while the sweetness of the of whiskies owned by the whisky soothes the spice. Edinburgh-based John Crabbie Crabbie’s, which is named after & Co. is an acutely accessible a distillery that operated in Leith Alternatively, a Yardhead Old no-aged entrant to a single malt back in the 1800s, opened the Fashioned is a strapping sidekick to category which, for Chain Pier distillery in Edinburgh a succulent steak, while a Whisky some consumers, remains last year – making it the first Mac – equal parts ginger wine aloof, unapproachable and new single malt whisky distiller in and Yardhead over ice in a rocks often intimidating. the Scottish capital for nearly glass – is a classic cocktail that’s 100 years. downright delicious with rich apple In an attempt to demystify the pie: the spiced notes of ginger single malt whisky category and Made specifically for mixing, and wine complement the sweet/tangy distance itself from what it regards aimed at less clichéd whisky- apples and the whisky’s malt as a preoccupation with regional drinking occasions and consumers notes are the perfect match for provenance, Crabbie’s Yardhead who have not found their way into the oaty crumble. has chosen not to unveil the whisky, Yardhead joins a Crabbie’s distillery from which it’s sourced. range that consists of an eight- As an aperitif, though, we But what they do reveal is that it’s a year-old Highland single malt, a particularly like the idea of oysters Highland single malt Scotch whisky peated 12-year-old Island malt, with a Whisky Sour or, indeed, aged in ex-bourbon casks, bottled and three separate Speyside malts whisky neat. The brine-y shellfish with maximum drinkability in mind aged for 25, 30 and 40 and the sweet mellow whisky and aimed at twenty-something years respectively. create an intense savoury/sweet consumers who drink bourbon balance on the palate. and rum. Halewood has created several Yardhead long drinks and cocktails Elements of both these spirits can designed to dovetail with a variety be discovered on both the nose of dishes. A simple Yardhead and 44 45 THE GUIDE TO FOOD GIN SUL GIN SUL THE GUIDE TO FOOD

GIN SUL 43%

£29.42 PER 50CL GIN CURRY

Earlier this year, the firm behind the western Algarve adorn the gin like this, twinned with bespoke Jägermeister made its first foray with an uplifting aroma. tonics, lends itself to direct pairings into the UK’s thriving super- with dishes. premium gin market with the Other botanicals include organic launch of Gin Sul. juniper, fresh rosemary, coriander, Paired with a dry tonic, a Gin Sul rose blossoms, lavender and G&T can lift the weighty textures of In an increasingly competitive cinnamon, while the water is strong cheese from the palate or category, Gin Sul is distinctive sourced pure from Lüneburg Heath even pork and shrimp dumplings. in that it boasts a unique dual and filtered through ice-age shingle As a salute to gin’s historical heritage: it’s made using ingredients in Germany. association with the subcontinent, from Portugal, where founder celebrate its kinship with spicy Stephan Garbe originally came up It looks the business too. Gin Sul dishes such as curry – it’s got with the idea, yet is distilled, with rocks some serious standout the botanical freshness to slice GIN SUL G&T trademark Teutonic efficiency, in skills on shelf with a distinctive through the heat and, again, the 50ML GIN SUL Germany at the Altona Distillery white- glazed and screen-printed effervescence to prepare the in Hamburg. stoneware bottle with thick palate for the next mouthful. FEVER TREE PREMIUM ceramic walls that shield the gin’s INDIAN TONIC WATER Distilled on a 100-litre copper still delicate flavours from troublesome On its own, meanwhile, we in small batches, Gin Sul is aimed temperature changes and laugh in suggest the classic combination LARGE ORANGE PEEL SPIRAL unequivocally at the upper end of the face of light-strike. of Gin Sul, Fever-Tree Premium ROSEMARY SPRIG a UK gin market whose impressive Indian Tonic Water and a garnish growth is showing little sign of While the classic gin & tonic has consisting of a sprig of rosemary waning. Its quality credentials lie in traditionally been enjoyed as and a large orange peel spiral – 1. COMBINE IN A LARGE BALLOON GLASS its ingredients; fresh lemons and an aperitif, the more complex complementing the Mexican bitter WITH PLENTY OF ICE hand-picked gum rockrose from combination of flavoursome gins oranges in the tonic water. 46 47 THE GUIDE TO FOOD GLENFIDDICH FIRE & CANE GLENFIDDICH FIRE & CANE THE GUIDE TO FOOD

GLENFIDDICH FIRE & CANE 43% SMOKY SERVE 35ML GLENFIDDICH FIRE & CANE PER 70CL £29.83 WHISKY SPICY SAUSAGE ORANGE PEEL ICE

1. ADD CUBED ICE TO A ROCKS GLASS TO CHILL 2. POUR IN FIRE & CANE 3. FLAME ORANGE PEEL ZEST OVER SERVE

Glenfiddich is a single malt that to create an elegant On the nose, fusing with some deftly strikes a balance between whisky that combines the sweet fruit notes, there’s a float tradition and trailblazing. smokiness of a campfire with a of soft peat, like a distant drifting terrific toffee sweetness. smoke from a billowing bonfire. While it proudly hails its impressive The campfire character continues history, it certainly doesn’t want Described as ‘the whisky through onto the palate, with oak to get stuck there and, in Brian experiment that will divide you’, notes, toffee apple and a bit of Kinsman, Glenfiddich has a malt Glenfiddich Fire & Cane is a seared marshmallow and some master who is constantly coming lightly peated, no-age-statement sharp green fruit. The smoke up with creative innovations. Fire single malt that’s been matured in then lingers on the finish, before a & Cane, launched last year as the ex-bourbon casks before being smooth sweet send-off. fourth expression in the brand’s finished in ‘Latin-style’ rum casks ‘Experimental Series, is a complex for several months. Serve it up as a soothing pairing coming together of smoky and to some spicy sausages from the sweet notes. Sourced from the Caribbean and BBQ – a combination capable South America, the casks held of converting even the most Previous releases from the ongoing a blended rum that is bigger and dyed-in-the-wool whisky doubters. Experimental Series include bolder than the rum that was used While able to hold its own in Glenfiddich Project XX and the IPA to finish the Glenfiddich 21 Year an Old Fashioned, and lovely Experiment, which was a whisky Old Gran Reserva – which wouldn’t lengthened in a highball, Fire & aged in beer barrels that had have had the strength of flavour Cane is phenomenal over ice with a previously held hop-forward India to stand up to the smoky peat torched orange peel. Pale Ales. whisky. With a glorious golden hue, Fire & Cane is a single malt that But for his latest limited-edition gently rocks and rolls between that Glenfiddich release, Kinsman has classic peaty campfire character married peated whisky and malts and the mellow molasses matured in bourbon barrels and sweetness delivered by dark then finished it in Latin rum casks – sipping rums. 48 49 THE GUIDE TO FOOD OLD FORESTER OLD FORESTER THE GUIDE TO FOOD

OLD FORESTER 43% OLD FORESTER SMASH 50ML OLD FORESTER 86 PROOF £16.94 PER 70CL BOURBON BURGER 15ML SUGAR SYRUP 2:1 4 WEDGES LEMON MUDDLED (OR 20ML FRESH JUICE) 8 MINT LEAVES

1. PLACE ALL THE INGREDIENTS IN YOUR FAVOURITE COCKTAIL SHAKER WITH CUBED ICE 2. SHAKE WELL AND STRAIN INTO A ROCKS GLASS OVER CRUSHED OR CUBED ICE AND GARNISH WITH MINT LEAVES

‘Yee’ and indeed ‘hah’. All hail this Prohibition single barrel whiskey character, some rich tobacco leaf legendary Louisville ‘slugger’ that released in 1938. in there and some smooth vanilla comes with a whole load of history from the barrels – which also give behind it. Eighty years later, Old Forester has it that solid oaky core. Rich but returned to its original home on the smooth, it’s a great go-to whiskey Old Forester was born back in 1870 iconic Whiskey Row in Louisville for bourbon-forward cocktails, when a young pharmaceutical with a new, $45 million, state-of- splashed over rocks or simply salesman by the name of George the-art distillery – still overseen by lengthened in a highball or Garvin Brown created a high- the fifth-generation of the Brown classic cocktail. quality, consistent Kentucky family. bourbon that would meet the But if you’re looking for something medicinal needs of his customers. They’ve had to make some room to sit alongside American-style for a load of recent industry burgers, brisket, ribs and other Old Forester was launched as the awards, including Gold at the San BBQ dishes then serve up an first ever bourbon to be exclusively Francisco Spirits Competition Old Forester Smash – one of the available in glass bottles – each and a Liquid Gold Award in the most popular cocktails of 1850’s one adorned with a promise from latest 2019 edition of Jim Murray’s America. A sibling to the Cobbler Dr William Forrester, a leading esteemed Whisky Bible. and the Julep, the Smash is a physician in Louisville. It read: “This cocktail that works for both those whiskey is produced by us only, and Made to the original mash bill of who love whiskey and those who we are responsible for its richness 72% corn, 18% rye and 10% malted don’t love whiskey … yet. and fine quality. Its elegant flavor barley, Old Forester is twice- is solely due to original fineness distilled, first in a column still, then It’s a serve that opens up to a developed with care. There is again using a thumper still. The new multitude of variations, seasonality nothing better in the market.” whiskey is then transferred to new and trending opportunities – and medium charred oak barrels, which it’s a fine accompaniment to food, Its theoretical medicinal properties they make themselves, with the caramel sweetness to mean that Old Forester also and matured for a minimum of complement the charred meat and remains the only bourbon to four years. the sharpness to slide through the be distilled pre, during and post fatty textures. Prohibition by the same founding It’s sweet and spicy, intense yet oh- family. It is also the first post- so accessible with a full-on floral 50 51 THE GUIDE TO FOOD BOODLES MULBERRY GINN BOODLESS MULBERRY GIN THE GUIDE TO FOOD

BOODLES MULBERRY GIN 30%

£19.73 PER 70CL GIN GAME

Ask yourself this: how much do you know something about the only for life to be breathed back you know about the mulberry? mulberry. You’re welcome. into it six years ago using a recipe Not much, probably. It crops up that, unusually, is bereft of citrus in nursery rhymes and is better Anyway, the folk behind the botanicals. The original gin forms known as a ‘fabulous’ fashion quintessentially English Boodles the base for this fabulously fruity, brand; the mulberry is a frequently Gin have made their very own autumnal offshoot. overlooked fruit, deep purple in mulberry-flavoured gin as a rather hue, and often mistaken for salubrious alternative to classic The sweet medley of berries the loganberry and the sloe gins, and – let’s face it – the perfectly complements Boodles common blackberry. plethora of flavoured and pink British Gin’s unique botanicals of gins that can be seen jostling each rosemary, nutmeg and sage. It’s a The mulberry is anything but other on the back bar. fresh interpretation of Sloe gin, a common – in both senses of classic British drink that is ripe the word. Not only does it grow Boodles, distilled in the UK at for rediscovery. less abundantly than its prickly- G&J Distillers, is an upmarket branched peers (such as the sloe, gin named after the historic and When it comes to food pairings, its for example), it can often be found famous Boodle’s Gentlemen’s Club berry sweetness and tart balance BOODLES ROYALE sprouting in the manicured gardens in London. Arguably Britain’s most is gorgeous with game, delicious 1 PART BOODLES MULBERRY of stately homes, fancy squares, prestigious gentlemen’s club, it was with duck and, when mixed into a private gardens and old orchards. founded in 1762 by future British glass of bubbles, moreish with pre- 3 PARTS CHAMPAGNE prime minister, Lord Shelburne dinner munchies. Equally, if you’re The reason why you’ll seldom (William Petty), and named after its looking to boost your after-dinner LEMON WHEEL see them on public streets? Well, original – and particularly ascetic – spend, serve it up with Stilton as an historically, planners have not head waiter, Edward Boodle. innovative alternative to port. 1. COMBINE IN A LARGE BALLOON planted them because the falling The original Boodles British Gin GLASS WITH PLENTY OF ICE fruit will stain passers-by. So, now was first distilled back in 1845, 52 53 THE GUIDE TO FOOD HOXTON BANANA RUM HOXTON BANANA RUM THE GUIDE TO FOOD

HOXTON BANANA RUM 40%

£23.27 PER 50CL RUM SIPPING / PUDS

DARK & BANANA 50ML HOXTON BANANA RUM ADD 250ML BRITVIC GINGER BEER 15ML LIME JUICE

1. POUR BOTH THE RUM AND LIME JUICE That the flavoured rum category is Hoxton Banana undertakes an It’s the palate that brings the nice INTO A GLASS FILLED WITH ICE in extremely fine fettle will not be arduous production process and natural big banana notes, 2. TOP WITH GINGER BEER, AND STIR news to those in the bar business. involving fresh and dried bananas there’s a touch of tropical fruit, being macerated for five weeks in some warm caramel notes and Over the past couple of years, it’s a selection of quality Caribbean vanilla on the finish. It’s off-dry and been the engine room behind the rums. The blend of authentic thankfully doesn’t have any of the success of the wider rum category, rums, aged from between 3 and 8 saccharin sweetness that features in which golden, dark and premium years, is sourced from Barbados, in other flavoured rums. rums are showing similarly the Dominican Republic and impressive increases in popularity. Nicaragua, and consists mostly of And it’s worth remembering that a column-still rums, with 15% of the lot of people like bananas. A lot of But, as ever with a burgeoning blend represented by pot-still rums. people. In fact, 100 billion bananas drinks trend, not all the new brands are eaten every year in the world, competing in the flavoured rum Unlike more frivolous flavoured making them the fourth most category could be considered rums out there, Hoxton Banana popular agricultural product on entirely authentic when it comes contains no artificial colourings the planet. to their ingredients. If trust and or flavours, and only uses 100% transparency are high on your natural ingredients. And it’s While Hoxton Banana Rum makes tick list when it comes to stocking bottled at 40%ABV; higher than a magnificent twist on a pre-dinner your backbar, then have a look at a lot of other competitors entering mojito and is a perfect premium Hoxton Banana Rum. the category. party spirit to use in a rum punch, it can also be sipped neat as an Each step of the drink’s If you like bananas, you’ll like accompaniment to a pudding or development, from the production this – but it doesn’t bash you on dessert. The Dark and Banana, process to the new-look bottle the bonce with overly big banana especially, works well with banoffee aesthetic, has been designed by flavours. The aromatic banana pie and adds some extra oomph to none other than Gerry Calabrese, character is a gentle one, merging spend per head. son of the legendary Salvatore ‘The nicely with the molasses rum on Maestro’ Calabrese. the nose.

54 55 THE GUIDE TO FOOD REDLEG CARAMELISED PINEAPPLE REDLEG CARAMELISED PINEAPPLE THE GUIDE TO FOOD

REDLEG CARAMELISED 37.5% PINEAPPLE £15.47 PER 70CL RUM ICE CREAM

Looking to spice up your … erm … Made with 100% natural pineapple Caramelised Pineapple suits the spiced rum range? Then introduce and caramel flavours, this latest sipping occasion over ice and is the latest release from RedLeg to release from RedLeg uses the an absolutely delicious drink to your back bar or speed rail. core rum’s original combination of accompany desserts – spicing up RedLeg Caramelised Pineapple, oak barrel aged rum infused with the spend-per-head in the process. a premium spiced rum made with Jamaican ginger and vanilla spices. caramelised pineapple, has been There’s an instant aromatic hit of One of the recommended serves unleashed into a hugely buoyant sweet vanilla and pineapple while is a simple Pineapple and Tonic, flavoured and spiced rum sector the palate presents some mellow made by adding a double measure that is the engine room of an overall caramel, a touch of toffee and that of RedLeg Caramelised Pineapple rum category showing impressive superb spicy ginger hit for which to a Collins glass with ice, a dash growth in the UK. RedLeg is renowned. of gomme syrup topped with tonic water and a squeeze of lime. Now worth more than £1 billion a While pineapple rums have year, rum is, according to some traditionally been associated with However, with a couple of THE PINEAPPLE industry experts, expected to tiki culture, they are now being scoops of ice cream, have it like DAIQUIRI eclipse gin sales by the year widely used in more complex Hemingway in a daiquiri. 2020 and spiced rum will classic cocktails such as the It’s delicious. 50ML REDLEG CARAMELISED PINEAPPLE represent a major chunk of its Old Fashioned and fruit-forward 35ML FRESH LIME JUICE on-trade success. concoctions. Delivering flavour and sweetness, RedLeg Caramelised 20ML SUGAR SYRUP Just as the gin boom has branched Pineapple can also conjure up that out into flavours so too has rum holiday feeling – a transportive 1. POUR THE REDLEG CARAMELISED – with pineapple rum being a taste of the tropics! PINEAPPLE, FRESH LIME JUICE AND particularly popular variant among SUGAR SYRUP INTO A COCKTAIL SHAKER both bartenders and, indeed, With versatility being very WITH ICE. customers making their first forays much spiced rum’s key virtue, 2. SHAKE WELL AND STRAIN INTO A into the rum category. the sweetness of RedLeg COUPLE GLASS. 56 57 THE GUIDE TO FOOD SIPSMITH ORANGE & CACAO GIN SIPSMITH ORANGE & CACAO GIN THE GUIDE TO FOOD

SIPSMITH ORANGE 40% & CACAO GIN

£19.37 PER 50CL GIN HOT CHOCOLATE

It’s been ten years since Sipsmith experimental gins are developed That’s not all. Before bottling, they was set up in a tiny workshop in by the expert Sipsmith distilling lay it down on fresh orange zest to Hammersmith by Sam Galsworthy, team and sent out to gin lovers. create a lovely, zesty, citrusy gin Jared Brown and Fairfax Hall – it with a strong juniper thread running was the first traditional copper Harking back to historical through it – providing an entirely distillery in London since 1820. distillation techniques and drawing different profile from other sweet inspiration from the classic and fruity gins. Over the past few years, Sipsmith combination of chocolate and has been the flavour-focused orange, it’s certainly not a flippant It’s a spirit that can straddle the ZESTY ORANGE G&T flagbearer at the forefront of the foray into the flavoured-gin seasons – during the warmer remarkable gin renaissance. category. months, it stands up superbly in 50ML SIPSMITH ORANGE & CACAO GIN Still distilled in small batches in a Gin & Tonic, simply served long PREMIUM INDIAN TONIC WATER West London on a trio of small While other distillers may dial down with Fever Tree Indian Tonic Water copper stills, its classic London the juniper character in their citrus and garnished with an orange. WHEEL OF ORANGE (TO GARNISH) Dry Gin has developed a loyal gins, Sipsmith turns it up – with Alternatively, as autumn arrives and bartender following. 50% more juniper than its London temperatures drop, add some easy 1. FILL A THIN-RIMMED HIGHBALL GLASS Dry Gin recipe – before adding additional margin by suggesting UP TO THE TOP WITH ICE CUBES In April this year, they unveiled their liquorice for some sweetness. 50ml of Sipsmith Orange & Cacao 2. ADD 50ML SIPSMITH ORANGE & latest expression at an exclusive Then orange blossom and black to a Hot Chocolate and garnish CACAO GIN 10-year anniversary party following cardamom are added alongside with a wedge of Orange. Or maybe 3. TOP WITH A PREMIUM INDIAN rave reviews from the Sipsmith raw cacao nibs – which conjure a chunk of chocolate. TONIC WATER Sipping Society, a bi-monthly up a wonderfully rich dark 4. GARNISH WITH AN ORANGE WHEEL membership where one-of-a-kind, chocolate character. 58 59 THE GUIDE TO FOOD SLANE IRISH WHISKEY SLANE IRISH WHISKEY THE GUIDE TO FOOD

SLANE IRISH WHISKEY 40%

£18.50 PER 70CL WHISKEY COLD BREW COFFEE

Whatever you do, don’t mention Ireland, the Irish distilling scene The award-winning triple-casked this in Scotland but, according to now finds itself in fine fettle with Slane Whiskey is a blend of grain the history books, it was the Irish more than two dozen whiskey- and malt whiskeys aged in three who invented whisk(e)y. makers spread across each of the different casks – virgin barrels, four provinces. bourbon barrels from Louisville, Some centuries later, Scottish and sherry casks from Spain. distillers stole a march on their Irish The growth in distilleries has been counterparts when they embraced accompanied by a surge in global This creates a whiskey with lots of the ideas of Aeneas Coffey, the sales, rising from 6 million cases depth. Autumnal fruit and caramel, Irish inventor who created a (72 million bottles) in 2010 to 10.7 butterscotch and vanilla; brown continuous still in 1831. Coffey had million cases (130 million bottles) spice and toasted oak on the patented the idea and taken it to in 2018 – with sales of Irish whiskey nose. Then, on the palate, spice the Irish but they turned him away, soon to outrank those of Scotch notes segue into sweetness with preferring the pot still. in America. vanilla and toffee followed by a finish of dried fruits and oak and The continuous Coffey still was At the forefront of this Irish whiskey caramelized sugar. Scotch whisky’s springboard for renaissance is Slane Whiskey, the SLANE COLD BREW global domination, sending sales brainchild of the Conyngham family While whiskey has a well-renowned soaring at the expense of Irish of Slane, renowned in Ireland for culinary kinship with dark 40ML SLANE IRISH WHISKEY whiskey – and as anyone who hosting huge rock concerts within chocolate and, indeed, cheese, we 10ML COFFEE LIQUEUR (OPTIONAL) has sat through a performance the grounds of their family castle. suggest the best way to enhance of Riverdance will know, the Irish the dining occasion with Slane is in 10ML CARAMEL MONIN decision to reject the column still In association with Bacardi Brown- the shape of a Slane Cold Brew, a is one that they’ve been kicking Forman Brands, father and son cool, chilled twist on the traditional, 60ML COLD BREW COFFEE themselves about ever since. Henry and Alex Conyngham have margin-boosting, Irish coffee. built a state-of-the-art sustainable 1. SH AKE WITH ICE But now, Irish whiskey is making a distillery which has breathed life 2. SERVE IN A CAN GLASS OVER ICE stirring comeback. Having reached back into a rich history of whiskey- 3. GARNISH WITH THREE a nadir back in the 1980s, when making in the Boyne Valley. COFFEE BEANS there were just two distilleries in 60 61 THE GUIDE TO FOOD FRANKLIN & SONS ROSEMARY TONIC WATER WITH BLACK OLIVE FRANKLIN & SONS ROSEMARY TONIC WATER WITH BLACK OLIVE THE GUIDE TO FOOD

FRANKLIN & SONS ROSEMARY TONIC WATER WITH BLACK OLIVE

£ POA PER 200ML MIXER

It all used to be so simple: choice their knowledge of the brands the opportunity to try new within the tonic water market was a they drink, from ingredients and combinations, and adds depth basic, binary and, let’s face it, flavour pairings to brand history and complexity to drinks, whilst rather boring one. and heritage. enhancing, not masking, the botanicals or profile of the spirits. But now, the premium tonic Franklin & Sons finds itself at water market is overflowing with the forefront of this, and has The Rosemary Tonic Water with innovation, exciting new entrants strengthened its hand in the sector Black Olive is a unique combination and bespoke variants designed to with the newly-released Franklin & that combines savoury elements be paired with premium spirits from Sons Flavour Collection, developed with a balanced herbal note. It’s bourbon and tequila to gin and in conjunction with leading incredibly versatile in its mixability Scotch whisky. industry mixologists. – delicious when dovetailed with a ROSEMARY BY ANY sweet vermouth and a squeeze of OTHER NAME Consequently, there’s simply no Coming in four flavours – orange, and garnished with a sprig 40ML DRY VERMOUTH reason to let your mixer offering go Rosemary Tonic Water with of rosemary and a slice of orange. flat. Certainly not from a financial Black Olive, Rhubarb Tonic Water Serve in a large glass, or a wine 10ML LEMON JUICE perspective – the premium tonic with Hibiscus, Elderflower Tonic glass filled with solid cubed ice for a water market is up 27% by volume Water with Cucumber, and Pink refreshing, herbaceous highball. 10ML TRIPLE SEC and value and is now worth £407m, Grapefruit Tonic Water with TOP WITH FRANKLIN & SONS up from £321m last year. Bergamot – the dual flavours set Alternatively, when mixed with the tonics apart from competitors Martini Bianco, orgeat, lemon ROSEMARY TONIC WATER WITH The market has become more and grant unlimited opportunities bitters and prosecco, Franklin BLACK OLIVE informative and innovative, with for bars to experiment with & Sons Rosemary Tonic Water consumers becoming more the finest gins, spirits and with Black Olive creates a GARNISH WITH ROSEMARY AND interested in trying new flavours fortified wines. sophisticated, refreshing Aperitivo BLACK OLIVES. and discovering new elements of – perfect with pre-prandial nibbles their drink that improve the overall Providing a mix of sweet and such as olives, bread sticks, 1. COMBINE IN A LARGE BALLOON GLASS experience. They want to become bitter flavours to suit every palate, crostini, tapenade and other WITH PLENTY OF ICE everyday connoisseurs, improving the range gives consumers appetite-stimulating starters. 62 63