Touring Europe by Rail
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541102 Ch01.qxd 2/25/04 8:54 AM Page 1 1 Touring Europe by Rail Rich, ancient, and incredibly diverse, the nations of Europe offer a vast array of sights, climates, cultures, and cuisines. The ten trips outlined below show the full reach of the European rail system; feel free to mix and match parts of them to create your ideal vacation. Where possible, we’ve used overnight trains on these trips, as they save you the cost of a hotel night, maximize your sightseeing time, and are a rail experi- ence in and of themselves. Remember that overnight trains, as well as the Eurostar Chunnel train, French TGV trains, and most high-speed trains, require extra reservation fees over the price of your railpass. (See p. 35 for more on overnight trains.) We’ve recommended railpasses for those itineraries below that would make good use of them; where point-to-point tickets are cheaper, we’ve noted that as well. (For an overview of when to buy a pass and when to go point-to-point, see p. 42.) Exact train times and prices are subject to change—the details in these pages were accurate as of December 2003, but you should double-check all train schedules when plotting out your journey. For more on navigating rail sched- ules, see p. 30. 1 1-Week Itineraries The average North American vacation is a mere 7 days long (we know, too short!). To help you make the best of your time in Europe, we’ve put together five 1-week rail itineraries that will give you a taste of some of the best Europe has to offer. Whether you’re a royalty fanatic who can’t get enough of the continent’s magnificent palaces or a nature buff who’d rather tackle the magnificent scenery of Scandinavia, you’ll find an itinerary below that will suit your needs. And if you happen to have more than a week to spend (lucky you!), you can mix and match these itineraries or check out the 2-week itineraries we offer in the next section. ITINERARY 1 EUROPE’S BEST CASTLES & PALACES Duration: 8 days, 7 nights Best time of year: Spring or fall Recommended passes: Second-class Eurostar ticket, plus 3-country 6-day Eurail Selectpass Arrive in: London Depart from: Munich Europe is practically overflowing with medieval castles and ornate palaces. And many of these world-famous residences (and former residences) are open to exploration by those of us whose blood isn’t Royal Blue. Touring all these bas- tions of nobility could take years, but we’ve put together an itinerary that will 541102 Ch01.qxd 2/25/04 8:54 AM Page 2 2 CHAPTER 1 . TOURING EUR0PE BY RAIL introduce you to a few of the most noteworthy castles and palaces on the Con- tinent and in London. Day 1 Tours, in the Loire valley. Check into Arrive in London. After checking into your hotel (see “Tours” in chapter 8 for your hotel, take a tour of Buckingham accommodations options) and rest up. Palace in the morning, if it’s open Day 4 (only in summer); otherwise, take in the adjacent Royal Mews and the If ever there were a spot for castle magnificent Queen’s Gallery, both of lovers, it’s the Loire valley. Unfortu- which are open year-round and feature nately, it’s not the most train-friendly lots of fabulous royal treasures. Spend spot in France, so the best way to see the afternoon exploring the Tower of the region’s famous castles is to get up London, an imposing castle complex early and take a full-day bus tour of built by William the Conqueror and the Loire chateaux. Tours leave at home to Britain’s fabulous crown jew- 9 am daily from the city’s tourist office els. If you have time, indulge in a tradi- and, alas, Tours tours aren’t covered by tional afternoon tea, or try a night out railpasses. Should you wish to explore at the theater. See “London” in chap- on your own, a few chateaux are ter 10 for more sightseeing options in reachable from Tours by rail. Try the this historic city. Gothic and Renaissance Château of Amboise or the historic Château de Day 2 Blois. Stay in Tours a second night. Fortify yourself with a good English See “Tours” in chapter 8 for more breakfast before taking the Eurostar chateaux excursions out of Tours. 1 train on a 2 ⁄2-hour jaunt to Paris, a Day 5 journey that’s discounted with your Eurail Selectpass. If you’ve got time More chateaux! Take a 25-minute train once you’ve settled into your hotel, ride to Chenonceaux (p. 285), noted visit the Louvre, which would be the for its startling river-spanning castle. largest palace in the world, if it were Return to Tours for a final dinner, then still a palace and not one of the world’s take the 7:34pm TGV back to Gare greatest art museums. Pay homage to Montparnasse in Paris, arriving at the Mona Lisa, the Venus De Milo, and 8:45pm, to connect to the 10:58pm 300,000 or so of their fellow artworks. overnight train from Paris Est station It’s a royal treat, palace or not. See to Munich, which arrives at 8:54am. “Paris” in chapter 8 for other things to (Note: You’ll have to get from Mont- do in the city. parnasse to Paris Est station by Metro or taxi, but you’ve got plenty of time to Day 3 make the connection.) Get an early morning start and take Day 6 the RER C-line commuter train (the train is covered by your railpass) out to From the Munich Hauptbahnhof, Versailles (p. 272) and spend a half take the first available train to Füssen; day touring Louis XIV’s masterpiece, a you should arrive there around structure so magnificent, that building lunchtime. Take one of the hourly it practically bankrupted the state buses to Hohenschwangau (p. 377) treasury. Return to Paris in the after- and tour that castle (the line there noon for a stroll or some other sight- should eat up most of your afternoon) seeing before taking an evening TGV and then return to Füssen for the high-speed train for the 1-hour ride to evening. See chapter 9 for more on Munich and the Romantic Road. 541102 Ch01.qxd 2/25/04 8:54 AM Page 3 ITINERARY 2: SMALL CITIES OF THE BENELUX 3 Itinerary 1: Europe’s Best Castles & Palaces NETH. 0 100 mi Amsterdam N 0 100 km U. K. London GERMANY BELGIUM Rhine Bonn el Brussels nn ha Frankfurt English C LUX. Seine Stuttgart Paris Strasbourg Seine Danube e n i h Loire R MMunichunich Füssen Tours Zurich AAUSTRIAUSTRIA FRANCE Innsbruck Chenonceaux Bern LOIRE VALLEY SWITZERLAND Geneva S P L Clermont- Lyon A Ferrand Mont Blanc Po ITALY Bordeaux A G P P E a Rhone N ro N n I ne N E S Day 7 the downtown Residenz Palace after In the morning, take a bus to checking into your hotel. Neuschwanstein (p. 377), Mad King Day 8 Ludwig’s fairy-tale folly. (This was the model for Walt Disney’s Cinderella If you have an afternoon flight, you Castle and the real thing is a heck of a might be able to get to Schloss lot better!). After lunch, take the bus Nymphenburg (p. 349), on the edge back to Füssen for the 2-hour train of Munich, in the morning. Other- ride to Munich, where you can tour wise your castle hopping will come to an end as you fly home from Munich. ITINERARY 2 SMALL CITIES OF THE BENELUX Duration: 8 days, 7 nights Best time of year: Summer Ideal passes: Point-to-point tickets Arrive in: Amsterdam Schiphol Depart from: See below Relaxing, romantic small cities can be an antidote to the typical European big- city bustle. Tack part of this itinerary onto a Paris or Amsterdam trip for a 541102 Ch01.qxd 2/25/04 8:54 AM Page 4 4 CHAPTER 1 . TOURING EUR0PE BY RAIL change of pace, or do the whole thing for a truly intimate week. All the Dutch and Belgian destinations in this itinerary are within a few hours of Amsterdam or Brussels, and you won’t have to worry about catching a train at a specific time within Holland or Belgium because all trains run on at least an hourly basis. Day 1 Day 4 Arrive at Amsterdam Schiphol airport, It’s time to leave The Hague behind. and take a train from the station Take a morning train to Antwerp’s beneath the airport terminal directly Centraal Station, store your luggage to The Hague, just 50 minutes away. there, and then lose yourself on the Check into your hotel for a 3-night streets of Antwerp, a hidden gem stay. Once you’re settled in, head for that’s the capital of Europe’s diamond Madurodam, a fascinating scale- trade. Don’t miss the largest church in model replica of dozens of Dutch the Benelux, the Cathedral of Our landmarks and attractions. After Lady, situated right off the city’s you’ve had your fill of miniatures, and medieval and picturesque Grote if you still have time, take Tram 1 all Markt. For a touch of culture, visit the way up to the beach resort of the impressive Rubens House, where Scheveningen to see how the Dutch artist Peter Paul Rubens once lived spend sunny days.