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ISSN: 1309-3851 t AUGUST 2014 he he comple t e gu ide t o go o ® THE HISTORY OF THE SEA NAVAL MUSEUM: EXCITING NEW OPENINGS OPEN AIR CONCERTS … AND MUCH MORE MORE MUCH … AND ART EVENTS EVENTS ART

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Your traveling companion since 1936® ® WELCOME Editor's Letter wheremagazine

WHERE MAGAZINE İSTANBUL EDiTORIAL up your Summer in Style! EDITOR Dilek Koç MANAGING DIRECTOR Gürkan Kınacı İstanbul welcomes the last month of summer with a full schedule of colourful Contributing editor Emma Levine events. First up is an exciting line-up of concerts by top vocalists including Greek englısh edıtorıal dırector Bob legend George Dalaras (p. 21), Emma Shapplin (p. 20) with her unique take on DesignerS Tijen Tezel, Yasemin Şahin French songs, Latin music queen Lara Fabian plus major Turkish vocalists. There contrıbutors Ardan Zentürk, Özden Akbal deputy edıtor Özlem Aykın Kınacı are also several rock and electro music festivals, including the Rock Off Festival at oaykin@ whereistanbul.com.tr Küçükçiftlik Park featuring metal and rock groups, and the Isle of Dreams at Life Park, photo edıtor Sami Atalan where electronic music fans will experience the spirit of Ibiza with famous DJs (p. 21). consultant Aynur Koç responsıble edıtor Aslı Koç Don’t forget to experience the summer menus in the city’s restaurant gardens and ADVERTISING & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT terraces. Chef Mezze and Kalamata at Sortie, as well as Ulus 29, Sunset and Reina SALES DIRECTOR Selen Uzeroğlu Kaya (p. 26), are some of İstanbul’s favourite dining and entertainment destinations. [email protected] busıness development & marketıng The city’s galleries have hardly slowed down this summer, with joint exhibitions marketing dırEctor Mahmut Bölükbaş featuring the works of many fine artists. You’ll especially want to see exhibition [email protected] of street art and graffiti, Duvarların Dili (‘The Language of the Walls’) at the Pera Evren Satır [email protected] productıon Museum, as well as Çok Sesli (‘Plurivocality’) at İstanbul Modern (p. 19). productıon manager Aybüke Kevser Of course we’d recommend you visit the major historic landmarks like assıstant Selda Ceylan Toprak and the Basilica Cistern on the Historic Peninsula, plus important neighbourhoods controller Yıldırım Uğurgelen from more recent times like Karaköy, Balat and Şişhane. And while you’re here, you’d do well to check out the many autumn discounts in our fabulous shops! where (c), cee & dıvısıon United Guides Hungary Wishing you a wonderful stay in our city, MANAGING DIRECTOR András Wiszkidenszky regıonal manager Bianca Otero DİLEK KOÇ Editor, Where İstanbul

Managing Director Europe Morris Visitor PublicationS Chris Manning MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN & CEO William S. Morris III PRESIDENT William S. Morris IV PUBLISHER DSTİL TASARIM İLETİŞİM TİCARET LTD. ŞTİ. Teşvikiye, Deryadil Sok. Şeren Apt. 104/10, Şişli 34365, İstanbul Tel: 0212 296 0039 Fax: 0212 225 0552 Prınted by turkuvaz matbaacılık yayıncılık A.Ş. Akpınar Mah. Hasan Basri Cad. No.4 Sancaktepe, İstanbul Tel: 0216 5859000 Fax: 0216 585 9130 Issue No.56 ISSN: 1309-3851 Publication type: Monthly periodical

Plan ahead for your next visit to İstanbul, subscribe to where istanbul: 12 issues for overseas subcriptions $50. Contact: [email protected] Facebook: Where İstanbul Magazine Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

CONCIERGE ADVISORY BOARD Union Internationale des Concierges d’Hotel “Les Clefs d’Or” is an International Association of Concierges. Registered at 12, Rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, France. Members are as follows Ali Öner - Intercontinental İstanbul Cengiz Görkem - Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul Halil Tınaztepe - Four Seasons Bosphorus Yiğit Emen - Hilton İstanbul Koray Tüfekçi - Park Hyatt İstanbul Maçka Palas Cenk Caner - The Ritz - Carlton, İstanbul Sedat Tuncay - Sheraton Hotel Ankara Adnan Öner (President) - Swissôtel The Bosphorus Alpaslan Yıldız - The Grand Tarabya Oğuz Uzun - Divan İstanbul Fetih Güçlüer - Shangri La Bosphorus, İstanbul Endorsed by the Society of the Golden Keys of Turkey

2 WHERE İstanbul I August 2014 August 2014www.wheretraveler.com I İstanbUl WHERE 53 Where now | CALENDAR AUGUST View the art of Özcan Ukur at Zorlu Center 1 Art Gallery (p. 19). Rock out to rock and metal at the Rock Off 2 Festival (p. 21) Take in the İstanbul panorama from HOT DATES 3 Frankie’s terrace (p. 52) Visit Sinan the Architect’s masterpiece, the 4 Süleymaniye Mosque (p. 17) Join the fun at the Isle of Dreams Festival SATURDAY 5 at Life Park (p. 21) Catch Monica Molina’s concert at Harbiye 6 Open Air Theatre (p. 21) Make the most of discounts on top world 7 brands at Beymen (p. 37) 9 View the Non-existing Images exhibition at 8 Mixer (p. 19) LIFE IN COLOR Enjoy the Life In Color party with hot DJs at This colour-fuelled, exiting 9 Küçükçiftlik Park (p. 21) Florida-based event is now at Discover the beauty of the Küçükçiftlik Park. Known as 10 from Pierre Loti Hill. the World’s Largest Paint Party, Shop in 500-year-old living history at the Life in Color combines brilliant 11 Grand Bazaar (p.30) colour and hot DJs for wild music Take the kids to the Alive Museum celebrations you’ll never forget 12 at Vialand (p. 32) (p. 21). Sit back for a break from the summer 13 heat at Bebek Cafe. T: 0212 257 6651. See local art at the Plurivocality exhibition 14 at İstanbul Modern (p. 19) SATURDAY Soak up the sunshine at Suma Beach, with 15 great music at night . www.suma-beach.com Sample delicious at İskele Restaurant 16 in Beylerbeyi (p. 46) Enjoy an alfresco lunch Hardal restaurant in 2 17 stylish Nisantasi (p. 48) ROCK OFF FESTIVAL Explore the traditional market streets in 18 Balat. This three-day festival at Küçükçiftlik Park features major Browse for Turkish ceramics, carpets and 19 jewellery at Nakkaş (p. 34) bands including Magadeth, HIM, Amon Amarth, Gojira and Catch British band Portishead’s concert at 20 Küçükçiftlik Park (p. 21) Stratovarius, plus some of the hottest bands in Turkish rock See The Gali Collection’s original designs 21 for home and yacht (p. 38) today (p.21). Start your day with Turkish 22 at Namlı in Karaköy. www.namligida.com.tr Visit La Déesse boutique to create your TUESDAY 23 own personal fragrance. ladeesse.com.tr Take a coffee break with Turkish appetisers 24 at NaN in Şişhane (p. 46) Enjoy a peaceful stroll around the flowers 25 in Gülhane Park. Spend a day exploring the Prince’s İslands 5 26 by bicycle. ISLE OF DREAMS Swings, roaller coasters and lots of activities Prominent DJs from around the 27 await you at MoiPark at Mall of İstanbul (p. 32) world come together for this Don’t miss Yasmin Levy’s concert at the electronic music festival, for three 28 Cemil Topuzlu Stage (p. 21) days of nonstop music. DJs including Take in a concert by the legendary Greek Avicii, Paul Oakenfold, Ingrosso, 29 singer George Dalaras (p. 21) Afrojack and Alesso join forces to Enjoy a boat trip on the Bosphorus by keep the music flowing, recreating 30 moonlight. the music and culture of the Island of See global street art at ’s Ibiza (p. 21). 31 Language of the Wall exhibition (p. 19).

4 WHERE İstanbul I AUGUST 2014 Where Now | İSTANBUL in 2014

MOI PARK ADVERTISING FEATURE ADVERTISING

Sultan Abdülhamit II ordered the museum to An exhibition of Ottoman wood art includes be built, so Admiral Hikmet Pasha and Major rigging used in the , including the Süleyman Nutki followed his wishes and founded head rig of Orhaniye Frigate, thought to be the in 1897, as a small museum and library. During largest in the world with a length of 14.5m. World War II, valuable exhibits were transferred to Anatolia for protection. After the war ended, it It’s fascinating to get an insight into Turkish was agreed to be restore the museum in İstanbul naval history in a chronologic and thematic once again, and it was relocated to Dolmabahçe way through these illuminating exhibits, telling Palace. Following the latest restoration, museum the story of prominent individuals, vessels and has reopened to visitors, in its current Bosphorus- circumstances that left their mark on the nation. side location in Besiktas.

Today, you’ll see the rich collection consisting İstanbul Deniz Müzesi Komutanlığı of around 20,000 treasures, including personal Sinan Paşa Mah. Beşiktaş Cad. 6/1 Beşiktaş. belongings of Atatürk, weaponry, maps, uniforms T: 0212 327 4345/46. and many other items of naval heritage. It also www.denizmuzeleri.tsk.tr houses Ottoman galiots, including the world’s oldest ship, and caiques used by Atatürk. Bringing the sea’s An exhibition of Ottoman wood art includes rigging used in the Ottoman Navy, including the head rig of Orhaniye Frigate, thought to be the past to life largest in the world with İstanbul Naval Museum is a significant venue for many reasons. Turkey’s largest naval a length of 14.5m. museum boasts a diverse range of exhibits, telling the very significant story of the country’s maritime history from Ottoman times to the present.

6 WHERE İstanbul I August 2014 August 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 7 www.wheretraveler.com 13 Where Nonow || İSTANBULROYAL LONDON in 2014

AQUA RESTAURANT

Sebastiano Spriveri meals. We keep in line with the concept along with Turkish wines. Executive Chef of healthy eating, not only with our Where do you enjoy spending your ingredients, but our cooking techniques free time? In Bebek, for a walk along the Tell us how you began as well. Bosphorus. your career. How do you feel about ? Like every Italian boy, What new cooking trends do you see on It’s a great cuisine with rich flavours and I grew up watching my the horizon? I would say easy cooking. detailed cooking techniques, using fresh, mom cook for the whole family. Her Simple food, cooked with fresh produce seasonal ingredients. passion for cooking helped me decide to that people are familiar with. be a professional chef. What are your signature dishes? Aqua Restaurant’s signature dishes are paccheri Four Seasons Bosphorus, What about your pasta with lobster, cherry tomatoes and Çırağan Cad. 28, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 381 4059. restaurant’s ; charbroiled 30-day dry aged beef www.fourseasons.com. menu? ; ciabatta bruschetta with black At Aqua and with Restaurant, we black truffles. make Italian dishes using What are your favourite restaurants local products in the city? I like to visit to different in season, and fish restaurants and steak houses. focus on healthy, Sometimes I prefer small local light summer restaurants where I can enjoy mezes

10 WHERE İstanbul I August 2014 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS Byzantine church after Hagia Sophia and the only Jurassic Land Sightseeing one with a surviving atrium. Also open for special Jurassic Land invites you to discover the world events and ceremonies, the museum hosts various of the dinosaurs, where these most magnificent Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıcı) events. Requires prior appointment by phone. TL creatures – the last of which died out 65 million The largest covered cistern in İstanbul, named after 20. Topkapı Palace 1st Courtyard, Sultanahmet, years ago – come back to life. Designed in an a basilica once located nearby. Built during the Eminönü. T: 0212 512 0480. ‘edutainment’ concept combining fun and reign of Justinian I (527-565) to provide water for F5. education. Daily 10am-8pm. Museum Pass neighbouring palaces. 143m long, 65m wide, Hagia Sophia Museum Advantage Point (%15 discount on tickets) with a total area of 9,800 square metres. Open daily (Ayasofya Müzesi) www.jurassicland.com.tr. Forum İstanbul, Kocatepe between 09:00 am and 18:30 pm Admission fee: TL Built between 532 and 537 by Byzantine Emperor Mah. Paşa Cad. Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 640 8088. 20. www.yerebatan.com. Alemdar Mah. Yerebatan Justinian I in the old city centre, Hagia Sophia, or Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Cad. 1/3, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 522 1259. F5. Church of the Holy Wisdom, is the oldest and most Kılıç Ali Paşa Mosque Cistern Of Philoxenos quickly constructed cathedral in the world, and fourth largest in terms of its area. A masterpiece This mosque, designed by Mimar Sinan, resembles (Binbirdirek Sarnıcı) of art, history and architecture, it served two a small Hagia Sophia, and is adorned with famous The second-largest water reservoir in İstanbul Abrahamic religions -916 years as the central Iznik tiles of the period. It also includes a külliye, or after the Basilica Cistern, this structure was built church of the and 477 years as complex consisting of a Turkish bath, a tomb and a in the 4th century according to Byzantine sources. mosque - before being converted into a museum madrassah. Tophane, Beyoğlu. When Emperor Constantine I rebuilt the city, it D5. in 1935. Tue-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission fee: TL 25. was constructed to provide water to the Byzantine Maiden’s Tower (Kız Kulesi) Museum Pass Point Ayasofya Meydanı, palace. Columns bear pyramid-shaped capitals. Built on a small Bosphorus islet off the coast of Sultanahmet. T: 0212 522 0989. F5. The Cistern of Philoxenos serves as a museum Üsküdar, the Maiden’s Tower has been at the centre today. Daily 9am-8pm. Admission fee: TL 10. İstanbul Aquarium of many myths. According to one, it was built by www.binbirdirek.com. İmran Öktem Sk. 4, The İstanbul Aquarium is the world’s largest an emperor to protect his daughter who he saw Binbirdirek, Sultanahmet. thematic aquarium, and has received huge positive die of snakebite in a dream. The effort proved T: 0212 518 1001. F5. response from the public. Daily 10am-8pm. futile as the snake hid itself in a fruit basket and Dolmabahçe Palace Museum www.istanbulakvaryum.com. Şenlikköy Mah. bit her anyway. Having served as a customshouse, Yeşilköy Halkalı Cad. 93, Florya. watchtower, lighthouse, radar station, and (Dolmabahçe Sarayı Müzesi) T: 0212 444 9744. warehouse throughout its 2,500-year history, it Commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecit I, this palace Off map. was built between 1843 and 1856. It reflects the Western influence in Ottoman architecture in the late 18th century. Design contains eclectic elements from the baroque, rococo and neoclassical styles. It served as Atatürk’s residence during the early Republican Period and hosted many high level foreign guests before being converted into a museum. Daily open except Mon&Thu 9am-4pm. Admission fee: TL 40. www.dolmabahce.gov.tr. Dolmabahçe Cad. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 9000. B7.

Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi) Located in the Galata district, it was built in 1348 by the Genoese in addition to the city walls to defend The Weeping the region from outside attacks. The tower has A Spot of Mystery in the a superb panoramic view of the Bosphorus, the Column Golden Horn and the city. The restaurant located at the top floor of the tower offers Turkish and Certain columns stand out Middle of the City international dishes. Daily 9am-8.30pm. from the others with their Admission fee: TL 18,5. www.galatatower.net. decorations of peacock eyes Bereketzade Mah. Büyük Hendek Cad. 2, Kuledibi, The first striking impression as you enter the Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan and hanging branches. One Şişhane. T: 0212 293 8180. D4. Sarnıcı, also known as Underground Palace) is the forest of marble column with teardrop motifs Galata Mevlevihanesi Founded in the late 15th century, this Mevlevi columns rising out of the water. is said to have been placed there in memory of the slaves lodge is a fine place to acquaint yourself with the Islamic Mystic philosophy and practices which who were killed during the his is one of Istanbul’s most intriguing corner to see two of the columns supported hold such an important place Anatolia’s cultural cistern’s venues, built between 527 and 565 by enormous carved Medusa heads, heritage. Operating as a museum since the last construction. quarter of the 20th century, this historical site A.D. by Byzantine Emperor Justinian considered fine examples of Roman marble T consists of three floors, including the Semâhâne, I in order to meet the water needs of sculpture. A Mysterious Tower where the dervishes perform their famous ritual A real Istanbul landmark on the Asian side, located just off the coast of Üsküdar’s , and especially the nearby The cistern has undergone various repairs whirling dance. The museum’s collection also Salacak neighbourhood, Maiden’s Tower (Kiz Kulesi) is shrouded in legend. Grand Palace. since its initial construction, includes calligraphic panels, musical instruments, Originally constructed in the 12th century by Emperor Manuel Komnenos as Covering a total area and since 1987 it has been costumes and other items from Mevlevi culture. Daily open except Mondays 9am-7pm. a tomb on the rocky outcrop, over the centuries it has served as a lighthouse, of 9,800 square metres, one of İstanbul’s most popular Museum Pass Point www. hospital, radio station and customs building. Today it is easily accessed via a the cistern is supported tourist destinations, as well galatamevlevihanesimuzesi.gov. tr. short boat ride, taking you to its current incarnation as a restaurant. There are by 336 columns, each 9 as the location for the 1963 Galip Dede Cad. 15, Beyoğlu. several different myths about its past, including the young woman (hence the metres high, able to hold James Bond film, From Russia T: 0212 245 4141. D5. tower’s name) who was imprisoned by her father and who died of a snake bite. 100,000 tonnes of water. with Love. Hagia Irene Museum (Aya İrini Müzesi) Irrespective of their accuracy (or lack thereof), it offers one of the finest views of As you take the wooden Located in the outer courtyard of the Topkapı Alemdar Mah. Yerebatan Cad. 1/3, the Bosphorus (p. 13). walkways through the Palace, Hagia Irene is a Byzantine structure dating Sultanahmet. T: 0212 522 1259. back to the 4th century. It is the second largest cistern, head to the far

12 WHERE İstanbul I August 2014 August 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 13 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS also marked the entrance of the Bosphorus. The of Sultan Abdülaziz (1861-1865), this replaced the mathematics, optics, medicine, chemistry, communication. Located on the shores of the Santralistanbul reality. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission fee: TL foundations and most of the lower storey of the previous wooden waterfront palace. Previously technology and architecture were discovered, Golden Horn, its collection includes thousands of The first power plant in the , 25. Museum Pass Advantage Point (30 % off tower were built during the reign of Mehmet II, and it was generally used in summers, particularly to reached Europe via various routes, and gradually objects from gramophone needles to ships and this complex was later upgraded in keeping with adult tickets, 10% discount on Museum Gift Shop it took its final shape during the reign of Mahmut host foreign heads of state including the Prince absorbed into those cultures. Wed-Mon 9am-6pm. aircrafts. Tue-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. advances in technology and served İstanbul until and Café) www.masumiyetmuzesi.org.

II. Daily 9am-00:30am. Museum cafe 9am-6:45pm. of Serbia, King of Montenegro, Shah of and Museum Pass Point Gülhane Parkı İçi, 1983 as the Silahtarağa Power Plant. Now within Admission fee: TL 12,50. Museum Pass Advantage Çukurcuma Cad. Dalgıç Çıkmazı, 2, Beyoğlu. Live music-dinner (Reservations required) 8:15pm- French Empress Eugenie. Garden contains a Eminönü, Fatih. www.ibttm.org. T: 0212 528 8065. E5. Point (20% off adult tickets and 10% discount on the campus of a private university, the historical T: 0212 252 9738. C5. 12:30am. Museum Pass Advantage Point (25% off cafeteria and sales booths. Daily except Mon&Thu gift shop purchases) www.rmk-museum.org. building has recently been renovated to serve as Mustafa Kemal Museum The Quincentennial Foundation adult tickets and 20% discount on Breakfast/Lunch/ 9am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 20. Abdullahağa Cad. tr. Hasköy Cad. 5, Hasköy. T: 0212 369 6600. B3. an art and culture centre. Highlights include the Dinner/Brunch purchases) Beylerbeyi, Üsküdar. T: 0216 321 9320. This three-storey house in the Akaretler Row Museum Of Turkish Jews Off map. old engine rooms preserved to establish an Energy Houses, where the founder of the Turkish Republic (500. Yıl Vakfı Türk Musevileri Müzesi) www.kizkulesi.com.tr. Salacak Mevkii, Üsküdar. D7. Sadberk Hanım Museum Museum, plus contemporary art exhibitions and Chora Museum (Kariye Müzesi) Mustafa Kemal Atatürk stayed frequently between Funded by the Vehbi Koç Foundation, this museum cultural events. Tue-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am- (Also Known As Jewish Museum) Miniatürk First built as part of a monastery in 534, this 1912 and 1919, was also the residence of his mother is located in a renovated old waterfront mansion. 8pm. Admission fee: TL 15. Historical documents, information and objects Covering an area of 60,000 square metres, is the only remaining structure from a larger Zübeyde Hanım, his sister Makbule Atadan and his Exhibiting a collection of archaeological artefacts, www..org. Eski Silahtarağa documenting the 700-year of history of Jewry in Miniatürk is the largest model park in the world, complex. Since its construction, it has seen major adopted son, Abdurrahim Tunçak. Now a museum it earned the 1988 Europa Nostra Award for its the Ottoman Empire. A work by sculptor Nadia Elektrik Santralı, Kazım Karabekir Cad. 2/6, Eyüp. displaying 105 1/25 scale models of major renovations in the 11th and 14th centuries. The displaying Atatürk’s belongings and historical modern museum practices. Thu-Tue 10am-5pm. Arditti to commemorate the Turkish-Jewish T: 0212 311 7809. Off map. structures in the Turkish and former Ottoman modern building consists mostly of the portions items from the time. Daily 9am-4pm. Admission Admission fee: TL 7. Museum Pass Advantage soldiers fallen while defending their country greets region. Open daily between 9:00 am and 7pm. renovated during the Ottoman and Republican free. Süleyman Seba Cad. Akaretler Sıraevler, 36, Point (You can buy the ticket with a special discount) TBMM Department of National Palaces visitors at the entrance. Mon-Thu 10am-4pm, Admission fee: TL 10. www.miniaturk.com.tr. periods. Its magnificent mosaics and frescos are Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 3329. A7. www.sadberkhanimmuzesi.org.tr. Büyükdere Art Museum Fri&Sun 10am-2pm. Admission fee: TL 10. Borsa Durağı Mevkii. İmrahor Cad. Sütlüce. among the finest examples of Byzantiane art. Daily Military Museum (Askeri Müze) Cad. 25/29, Sarıyer. T: 0212 242 3813. Off map. The Apartment of the Heir Apparent at www.muze500.com. Karaköy Meydanı, Perçemli T: 0212 222 2882. Off map. except Wed 9am-6pm. Admission fee: TL 15. Dolmabahçe Palace, itself an architectural symbol Sok. 1 (Behind Selanik Arcade), Karaköy. Museum Pass Point Ayvansaray Mah. Constructed in 1841 as a Military Academy, this Sakıp Sabancı Museum of the princes’ adoption of a free lifestyle, has T: 0212 292 6333. D5. Sapphire Kariye Camii Sok. 26, Edirnekapı, Fatih. building serves today as the Military Museum. The main building of this museum is a villa built in A hot destination since the day it opened, 5,000 objects selected from the museum’s been converted into a world-class museum. T: 0212 631 9241. C2. 1927 by Italian architect Eduard De Nari for Prince Opened in March 2014, the museum displays 202 Topkapı Palace (Topkapı Sarayı) Sapphire’s observation deck offers a stunning 360° collection of 45,000 items include arms, uniforms, Muhammad Ali Hasan of the Egyptian Khedive Built in 1478, during the reign of Mehmet II (the panorama that takes in the Galata Tower, Hagia Doğançay Museum tents, flags, swords, helmets and Ottoman-era paintings depicting the late Ottoman Empire. family. Purchased by the Sabancı Family in 1950. In 174 of the works are from the National Palaces Conqueror), Topkapı Palace served as the seat Sophia, the Bosphorus and more. Daily 10am- Housed in an historical 5-storey building, this artefacts. One of the oldest military bands in the 1998, it was given to Sabancı University along with of government of the Ottoman Empire and 10pm. www.istanbulsapphire.com. Emniyet Evleri, museum presents paintings by Adil Doğançay and world, the Janissary Band gives concerts between Collection; the remaining 28 are from Topkapı its collections and furniture to serve as a museum. Palace. Tue-Wed 9am-5pm. Fri-Sun 9am-5pm. the residence of Sultans for 380 years, until Eski Büyükdere Cad. 1/1, . his world-renowned son Burhan Doğançay. Free of 3 and 4pm. Wed-Sun 9am-5pm. Admission fee: TL The mansion houses a rich calligraphy and painting the construction of Dolmabahçe Palace. It was T: 0212 268 8383. charge. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. 4. www.tsk.tr. Valikonağı Cad. 2, Harbiye. www.dolmabahce.gov.tr. Dolmabahçe Cad. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). collection. Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10am-6pm. organised as a museum during the reign of www.dogancaymuseum.org. Hüseyin Ağa Mah. T: 0212 233 2720. B6. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 9000. B7. Turkuazoo 10am-8pm, Wed 10am-8pm. Free entrance at Abdülhamid II, but not opened to the public until Balo Sok. 42, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 7770. C5. Turkey’s first public aquarium, Turkuazoo is situated Naval Museum (Deniz Müzesi) Wednesdays. Museum Pass Advantage Point The Museum of Innocence 1924. It consists of several sections, including in the huge Forum İstanbul shopping centre. In İstanbul Archaeological Museums Largest maritime museum in Turkey and among the (TL8 for adult ticket and 10% discount on Museum The Masumiyet Müzesi (‘Museum of Innocence’), the Imperial Gate, the First Courtyard (Court of Gift Shop) muze.sabanciuniv.edu. Sakıp inspired by the 2008 novel of the same name the Janissaries), the Second Courtyard (Divan addition to observing marine life, visitors can (İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri) most important worldwide with its rich collection also experience one of the most breath taking Founded in 1891 by painter and archaeologist of 40,000 items. Barges, marine uniforms, Sabancı Cad. 42, Emirgan. T: 0212 277 2200. by Nobel prize-winner Orhan Pamuk, is the first Square), the Third Courtyard (Enderun Courtyard), activities of a life time; Diving with Sharks. Mon-Sun Osman Hamdi Bey, this museum houses artefacts manuscripts, scale models, standards, maps, Off map. museum in history inspired by a novel and made the Fourth Courtyard (Imperial Sofa) and the 10am-8pm. www.turkuazoo.com. Forum İstanbul from the many civilizations that have left their paintings, sultans’ seals, coats of arms, galleys, Shopping Center, Kocatepe Mah. Paşa Cad. 5/5, marks upon history. It is also the first museum navigation tools and weaponry. Tue-Fri 9am-5pm, Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 640 2015. founded in Turkey, and considered one of the ten Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission fee: TL 6. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). foremost of its kind in the world. It is actually three www.denizmuzeleri.tsk.tr. Deniz Müzesi different museums under the same administration: Komutanlığı, Barbaros Hayrettin Cad.Beşiktaş. Yıldız Palace, Şale Mansıon The Archaeological Museum, the Ancient Orient T: 0212 327 4345. B7. (Yıldız Sarayı, Şale Köşk) Museum (Eski Şark Eserleri Müzesi) and Part of Yıldız Palace, Şale Köşk is one of the most Museum (Çinili Köşk Müzesi), which together form Panorama 1453 History Museum fascinating examples of 19th-century Ottoman an outstanding attraction in the city. Witness the conquest of İstanbul 560 years later architecture. It consists of three main buildings www.istanbularkeoloji.gov.tr. Tue-Sun 9am-6pm. and relive the moment Mehmet II entered the city. constructed in between 1880 and 1898, located Open daily between 8am and 6pm Admission fee: Admission fee: TL 15. Museum Pass Point (10% in a garden surrounded by high walls. Its last two discount at the Shop and Café) TL 10. www.panoramikmuze.com. Maltepe Mah., sections were constructed to host Kaiser Wilhelm Cankurtaran Mah., Alemdar Cad. Osman Hamdi Topkapı Kültür Parkı Panorama 1453 Tarih Müzesi II during his visit to İstanbul. Daily except Mon-Thu Topkapı, Zeytinburnu. T: 0212 415 1453. Off map. Bey Yokuşu, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 520 7740. E5. 9:00am-5pm. www.millisaraylar.gov.tr. Admission fee: TL 10. Palanga Cad. 53, Yıldız, Beşiktaş. İstanbul Modern Pera Museum Founded by the Suna and İnan Kıraç Foundation, T: 0212 259 8977. A8. Non-profit cultural institution offering exhibitions and events held with the support of private museum hosts three permanent collections individuals, institutions and establishments as well including Anatolian weights and measures, Kütahya museums as local governments through joint projects. tiles and ceramics, and orientalist art, consisting of 300 paintings. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 12am-6pm. Adam Mickiewicz Museum Tue-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu 10am-8pm. Admission fee: TL 10. Museum Pass Advantage Residence of one of Poland’s three national poets, Admission fee: TL 17. www.istanbulmodern.org. Meclisi Mebusan Cad. Liman İşletmeleri Müd. Point (20% off adult tickets and 10% discount on who came to Turkey during the Crimean War to Perakende Artshop and Pera Café) Antrepo 4, Karaköy. T: 0212 334 7300. D5. organize the Polish troops on the allied side. www.peramuzesi.org.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 65, Tue-Sun 9.30am-4:30pm. Admission free. Serdar İstanbul Railway Museum Tepebaşı. T: 0212 334 9900. C5. Ömer Cad. Tatlı Badem Sok. 17, Dolapdere. This collection of 300 rail-related items explores T: 0212 237 2545. B5. all aspects of the Turkish Railways, including items Press Museum (Basın Müzesi) Transformed into a museum in 1988, this is the Aşiyan Museum from the original Orient Express. Tue-Sat 9am- 5pm. Sirkeci Train Station, Eminönü. first press museum in Turkey and the fourth in the Residence of prominent poet and writer Tevfik world. The incredible variety of objects exhibited T: 0212 520 6575. E5. Fikret. Personal belongings of Tevfik Fikret and includes lithography samples, platen machines, Abdülhak Hamid as well as photographs and Museum for the History of Science and letterpresses, proofing tables, old typewriters and belongings of other prominent members of the Technology in Islam (İstanbul İslam telex machines. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Admission Edebiyat-ı Cedide literary movement. Free of Bilim ve Teknoloji Tarihi Müzesi) free. Divanyolu Cad. 76, Çemberlitaş. charge. Tue-Sat 9am-4pm. Bebek, Aşiyan Yolu 15, This museum displays modern copies of inventions T: 0212 513 8458. F4. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 263 6986. Off map. and discoveries by Muslim scholars which were Rahmi M. Koç Museum Museum used for centuries but largely forgotten. The displays illustrate clearly how works of Islamic The first major museum in Turkey dedicated (Beylerbeyi Sarayı Müzesi) to the history of transportation, industry and Built by architect Serkis Balyan during the reign science in areas including astronomy, geography,

14 WHERE İstanbul I August 2014 August 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 15 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

brother Osman III, built by Mustafa Aga. With its baroque style and the three-dimensional stone churches AND patterns, it is one of its kind in world architecture. SYNAGOGUES The mosque’s two minarets feature the first stone combs used instead of lead ones. Nuruosmaniye, Churches and synagogues hold an important place Eminönü. T: 0212 513 0692. E4. in the vast cultural geography of İstanbul, which has served as capital of three major empires over Ortaköy Mosque 1,600 years. The following are the most important Located next to Ortaköy Pier, this mosque was of Istanbul’s churches and synagogues for their commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecit to Karabet history and architecture. Synagogues require a Balyan. The structure underwent restoration permit, available from the İstanbul Chief Rabbinate. between 1960 and 1972. It is a baroque structure T: 0212 293 8794. featuring a single dome with two slim minarets. White stone was used for walls, mosaic and Armenian Patriarchate marble for the mihrab, and porphyry for the pulpit. Just a 20-minute walk from Hagia Sophia, the Blue Ortaköy, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 359 5908. A9. Mosque and Topkapı Palace. In 2001, almost the entire Armenian community of İstanbul celebrated Rüstem Paşa Mosque the 540th anniversary of the Armenian Patriarchate This mosque in the Tahtakale area, near the at this church. Open Mon-Fri 9am-4pm. Egyptian (Spice) Market, was commissioned to the Sevgi Sok. 6, Kumkapı. T: 0212 517 0970. B4. famous architect Sinan by the daughter of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. Begun in the year 1561, Ayios Dimitrios Church it is a classical Ottoman structure, adorned with Unusually for a 16th century Greek Orthodox beautiful 16th-century Iznik tiles bearing floral church, it displays clear Ottoman architectural and fruit motifs. Tue-Sun 9am-12pm, 1pm-5pm. influence. Formerly the church of Ayios Athanasios, Hasırcılar Çarşısı, Eminönü. F4. it is said to have changed its name when an icon of St. Dimitrios was brought here from a small church Sokullu Mehmet Paşa Mosque in the Kasımpaşa district. Kurtuluş Square, the last With a single dome and minaret, and built in bus stop on Kurtuluş Cad. Ateşböceği Sok. 2, Şişli. Kadırga in 1507, this mosque was commissioned T: 0212 250 6248. Off map. by Ottoman Grand Vizier Sokullu Mehmet Pasha to Mimar Sinan for his wife. Its interior features Beth Israel Synagogue İznik tiles and special hand-carvings, with a mihrab Built in 1920, this synagogue provides religious Magnificent Carved Stone covered with calligraphic tiles. Şehit Mehmet Paşa services under the Neve Shalom Foundation. It is After you’ve visited the opulent Dolmabahçe Palace don’t miss the nearby Yokuşu, Kadırga, Eminönü. F4. the most active synagogue in Turkey. Bomonti, Kazım Orbay Cad.Efe Sok. 29, Şişli. Dolmabahçe Mosque located on the same site, perched on the edge of the Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque T: 0212 240 6599. Off map. Bosphorus. It was built in neo-classical style in the 1850s by the renowned architect One of the most famous landmarks of the Turkish Garabet Balyan. Originally commissioned by Bezm-i Alem Valide Sultan, the mother and Islamic world, Sultanahmet Mosque is a highly Church Of St. George Of Fener Greek Orthodox Patriarchate of Sultan Abdulmecid I, he continued its construction in her honour after she died. admired structure by all visitors. An example of classical Turkish art, it is the only one of its kind The centre of the Orthodox Christian world, this Inside, don’t miss the mihrab of decorated red marble, and its many windows that let to be originally built with six minarets, and stands church hosts many relics including the column on in plenty of light to show off its architectural features. Ömer Avni Mah. Beyoğlu. out on the city’s skyline from the Bosphorus. It which Jesus was whipped and remains of three is also known as the Blue Mosque for the İznik great saints. Fener Rum Patrikhanesi, Dr. Sadık tiles that adorn its interior. Entering the structure Ahmet Cad. 35, Haliç. T: 0212 531 5152. C3. through one of its three gates, visitors are greeted Harem. Guided tours in the Harem section require Each has a unique history and architecture, and Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church by its rich and colourful ornamentation including additional ticket purchase. Wed-Mon 9am-6pm. is open to visitors at vario times of the day. Located at the intersection of Sıraselviler Street engravings, tiles and stained glass windows Admission fee: TL 30. Harem, 9am-6pm. The following is a list of some of the highlights. and İstiklal Street in Taksim, this church is a that complement the grandeur of its exterior. Admission fee: TL 15. Museum Pass Point Most open daily from dawn to sunset. synthesis of Byzantine and modern architecture Sultanahmet. T: 0212 458 4468. F4/F5. www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr. Sultanahmet Meydanı. No admittance during the Friday prayer times with a cruciform plan and twin bell towers. T: 0212 512 0480. E5. between approx 12pm-1pm. Before entering the Süleymaniye Mosque Daily 9am-5pm. Meşelik Sok. 11/1, Taksim. mosque, visitors should cover their arms and legs; Commissioned by Sultan Süleyman I (Süleyman the T: 0212 244 1358. C5. Yıldız Palace Museums women should cover their heads. Magnificient), this mosque was built between 1550- (Yıldız Sarayı Müzeleri) Neve Shalom Synagogue 1557 by Sinan the Architect. Described as a work Complex of former imperial Ottoman pavilions and Eyüp Sultan Mosque The most famous Jewish synagogue in the city. from Sinan’s apprenticeship period, the mosque is villas representing the last examples of Ottoman Located in Eyüp on the northern tip of the Golden Shabbats, weddings, funerals, brit milahs, bar/bat actually part of the Süleymaniye Complex (Külliye), palace architecture. The first building in the area Horn, where one of the first followers of Islam, Eyyubu mitzvahs as well as high holidays are celebrated also including a madrasah (religious school), was constructed during the reign of Ahmet I in El-Ensari was buried after he was killed during the here. Büyük Hendek Cad. 67, Kuledibi, Beyoğlu. library, hospital, bath, kitchen, treasury the 17th century. The palace in its current form Arab siege of Constantinople. Mehmed II ordered T: 0212 293 7566. D4. and shops. Resting on four massive columns, the was built at the order of Abdülhamid II in 1880, the construction of a shrine and a mosque on the mosque’s dome is 53 metres high and 26.5 metres St. Anthony Of Padua Church who wanted his seat of government beyond location. The first mosque, which was completed in in diameter. Its interior is subtly decorated, with Roman Catholic church with the largest the reach of bombardment from the sea. Items 1458, was later destroyed, with the present structure the windows on the mihrab wall executed in with congregation in İstanbul. The entrance to the exhibited today originally belonged to the palace, constructed by Uzun Hüseyin Efendi between 1798 stained glass. Süleymaniye, Beyazıt. church is between the two apartment buildings including Abdülhamid II’s personal belongings and 1800. Eyüp. T: 0212 418 9393. A1. T: 0212 532 0623. E3/E4. where priests reside. Reinforced concrete and gifts presented to him, and products of the Hirka-I Şerif Mosque construction built in Italian neo-Gothic style by Yıldız Porcelain Factory still located on the palace Valide Sultan Mosque (Yeni Camii) Built in 1851 by Sultan Abdülmecid in Ottoman architect Guillio Mongeri. Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, premises. Wed-Mon 9am-6pm. Located in Eminönü Square next to the Egyptian style, to house the Hırka-ı Şerif (the cloak of the Sun 9am-12:30pm, 2pm-5pm. www.yildizsarayi.com. Admission fee: TL 8. Bazaar (Spice Market), this mosque in the centre Prophet Mohammed presented to him by Uwais al- İstiklal Cad. 171, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu. Museum Pass Point Yıldız, Beşiktaş. of a complex is one of the most glorious of the Qarani) this mosque is open throughout the month T: 0212 244 0935. C5. T: 0212 258 3080. A8. monumental mosques built on the coastline. It was of Ramadan. Daily 10am-4.30pm. Fatih. commissioned by Safiye Sultan in 1597 and built by T: 0212 631 6453. D2. Architect Davud Ağa, an apprentice of Sinan. MOSQUES Nuruosmaniye Mosque Upon his death in 1598, Dalgıç Ahmet Çavuş İstanbul’s mosques are among the most Commissioned by Sultan Mahmut I in 1748, this became its architect. Largely destroyed by a fire in outstanding witnesses to the city’s long history. mosque was completed during the reign of his 1660, it was reopened in 1665. Eminönü. E4.

16 WHERE İstanbul I August 2014 August 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 17 GALLERIES GALLERIES Armaggan Art & Design Gallery visual and audio arts in Turkey. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm, From 3 Aug: Ayşegül Kırmızı presents a collection Thu 10 am-8pm. www.istanbulmodern.org. Meclis-i of animal and female figure paintings, in her solo Mebusan Cad. Liman İşletmeleri Sahası 305, exhibition Haz (Pleasure). Mon-Tue 10am-9pm. Antrepo 4, Karaköy. T: 0212 334 7300. D5. www.armaggangallery.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. Mixer 65, Nuruosmaniye, Eminönü. T:0212 522 4433. E4. To 14 Sep: The exhibition Varolmayan Resimler Arter (‘Non Existing Images’) presents works by several To 17 Aug: Füsun Onur presents significant works artists in a variety of media including photography, in her exhibition Aynadan İçeri (‘Looking Glass’), design and neon installations. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm, named after Lewis Carroll’s children’s novel. Tue & Sun noon-6pm. www.mixerarts.com. Boğazkesen Thu 11am-7pm, Fri-Sun noon-8pm. www.arter.org.tr. Cad. 45, Tophane. T: 0212 243 5443. C5. İstiklal Cad. 211, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 3767. C5. Pera Museum Artnext İstanbul From 13 Aug: Duvarların Dili (‘Language of The To 30 Aug: Figüratif Yaz Sergisi (Figurative Summer Wall’), presents an exhibition based on street art Exhibition) presents figure-based works by nine and graffiti by a variety of artists.Tue-Sat 10am- artists in a variety of techniques. Mon-Sat 11am- 7pm, Sun 12am-6pm. www.peramuzesi.org.tr. 7pm. www.artnext.org. Windowist Tower, Meşrutiyet Cad. 65, Tepebaşı. T: 0212 334 9900. C4. Eski Büyükdere Cad. 26, Maslak. Plato Sanat T: 0212 999 3990. Off map. To 21 Sep: İrfan Önürmen presents paintings and art ON İstanbul GALLERY İLAYDA drawings on paper, covering his career of more To 12 Sep: Geldiğim Yer, Gittiğim Yön (‘The Place I Tema(s)sız (’Theneless/Contactless 4’) p.19 than 25 years, in the exhibition Portfolyo Serisi 4 Come From - The Direction I Am Going’), presents (‘Portfolio Series 4’). Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. digital versions of design works from Atlas, a book artists under the age of 35. Tue-Fri 11am-7.30pm, www.platosanat.org.tr. Ayvansaray Cad. 45, Balat. of poems by İlhan Berk, plus nu-designs. Mon-Sat Sat noon-7pm. www.galerizilberman.com. T: 0212 621 1247. C2. 11am-7pm. www.artonistanbul.com. Şair Nedim İstiklal Cad. Mısır Apt. 163, K.3 Beyoğlu. Proje 4L Cad. 4, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 259 1543. A7. T: 0212 251 1214. D5. To 23 Aug: 40 Yaş Altı Heykeltıraşlar (‘Sculptors Borusan Contemporary Gallery İlayda Under The Age of 40’) presents striking modern Borusan Contemporary presents West To 16 Nov: To 31 Aug: Tema(s)sız 4 (‘Themeless/Contactless 4’) sculptural pieces by young artists. Wed&Fri 10am- Coast Visions, featuring artists and works from the includes paintings, sculptures and installations by 5pm, Sat 10am-4pm. www.proje4L.org. Meydan San Francisco Museum Art’s Media Art Collection. gallery artists. Mon-Sat 10an-7pm. Sok. Beybi Giz Plaza, B Blok, Maslak. The exhibition presents works by artists including www.galleryilayda.com. Hüsrev Gerede Cad. 37, T: 0212 290 2525. Off map. Jeremy Blake, Bill Fontana, Doug Hall, Steina and Teşvikiye. T: 0212 227 9292. A7. Bill Viola, including major pieces employing new TEB Nişantaşı Private Banking Center and old technology. Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. Institut Francais De Turquie To 31 Aug: Aylin Erözcan’s photographs depict www.borusancontemporary.com. (Fransız Kültür Merkezi) the world of mineworkers, in her exhibition Soğuk Ateş (‘Cold Fire’). Mon-Fri 11am-6pm. Bostan Sok. Perili Köşk, Baltalimanı Hisar Cad. Rumeli Hisarı, To 31 Aug: Selçuk Demirel’s exhibition İnsanoğlu Göksun Apt. 2, Şişli. T: 0212 219 0930. Sarıyer. T: 0212 393 5200. Off map. Kuş Misali (‘Mankind is Like a Bird’), features his Off map. drawings published in the press since 1974. The World’s Colours Bozlu Art Project İstiklal Cad. 4 Taksim. T: 0212 393 8111. C5. The 40 Colours Photograph Project, To 16 Aug: İklim Değişimi (‘Climate Change’), an To 23 Aug: exhibition of works by 13 artists and curated by İstanbul Modern with works by photographers travelling around the world, continues with an exhibition of photographs Özlem İnay Erten, features works in a variety of To 9 Nov: The exhibition Yolda (‘On The Road’) Diverse Minds, media including painting, sculpture and video. features photographs documenting major events from Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Discovering Art Tue-Sat 10am-7pm. www.bozluartproject.com. in Turkey from 2003 to 2013 by Nar Photos, an Sat 9am-3pm. www.40renk.com. Cumhuriyet Cad. Diverse Teşvikiye Cad. 45/131, İsmet Apt 1, Nişantaşı. independent collective, reflecting its egalitarian, Cumhuriyet Apt. 17/2, Taksim. T: 0212 361 2000. C5. T: 0212 232 7232. democratic approach. Çok Sesli A6. To 27 Nov: X-İst on the Streets (‘Plurivocality’) is a selection of contemporary Helsinki Fotoğraf Okulu İstanbul’da Interpretations Evin Art Gallery To 6 Sep. works that delves into the interaction between (‘Collected North: Helsinki School of Photography Photographs, design, paintings To 31 Aug: Yaz Karma Sergisi (‘Summer Group Duvarların Dili/Graffiti-Sokak Sanatı (‘Language Of The Wall’), at the Pera in İstanbul’) explores the photographic process – and video installations form the Exhibition’) includes works by artists of several generations, on a wide range of subjects. Mon-Fri the language of the 21st century – through works Museum from 13 August, rediscovers the art to be seen on city streets. exhibition Varolmayan Resimler 11am-7pm. www.evin-art.com. Büyük Bebek Deresi from the Helsinki School of Photography. Mon (‘Non Existing Images’), on 11.30am-7.30pm. Tue-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. raffiti and street art have been Sok. 13, Bebek. T: 0212 265 8158. Off map. display at Mixer (to 14 Sep), www.artxist.com. Abdi İpekci Cad. Kaşıkçıoğlu Apt. among the most popular themes in MIXER Gallery Eksen 42/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 7784. The exhibition explores ways A6. the art world for several years, but To: 31 Aug: Works by over 150 different artists G in which viewers perceive the Vialand only a very few exhibitions have been held in oils, pastels, watercolour, sculpture, ceramics, To Dec: Consisting of more than 100 works, Canlı on the subject in Europe and America. Taking works, rather than the works engraving and design, in the exhibition Koleksiyon (‘Collection’). Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. Müze (‘Alive Museum’) presents reproductions the most fascinating examples of graffiti from themselves (p. 19). www.galerieksen.com. Maçka Cad. 29, Nişantaşı. of works by famous artists and images that have the street into the museum, this exhibition become permanently etched on human history, MIXER T: 0212 219 0850. B6. also creates a new platform for its discussion. reinterpreted through three-dimensional video and Gallery Mcrd animation. Daily 10am-10pm. www.canlimuze.com. The exhibition incorporates works by 20 To 20 Sep: A selection of new works in four Yeşilpınar Mah. Girne Cad. Eyüp. T: 0212 397 1930. artists including the US, Germany, France, exhibitions: Work In Progress, Gerçeğin Ötesi Off map. Japan, Spain and Turkey, with prominent (‘Beyond Reality’), Arayış (‘The Quest’) and Reflex. Zorlu Center Art Gallery names from different generations and Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. www.galerimcrd.com. Tomtom Mah. Boğazkesen Cad. 69, Tophane, To 3 Aug: Artist Özcan Ukur creates two- and three- disciplines of street art including Futura, Arter dimensional works in different types of plastic Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 4070. C5. Carlos Mare and Cope 2. Aynadan İçeri arts, presenting faceless bodies and the drama of Meşrutiyet Cad. 65, Tepebaşı. Gallery Zilberman (’Looking Glass’) mankind, in his exhibition Genesis. Mon-Sun 10am- The exhibition Genç, Yeni, Farklı V 10pm. www.zorlucenterpsm.com. Zorlu Center, T: 0212 334 9900. www.peramuzesi.org.tr To 10 Aug: p.19 (‘Young, Fresh, Different V’) presents works by six Beşiktaş. T: 0850 222 6776. Off map. 18 WHERE İstanbul I august 2014 august 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 19 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT CONCERTS: POP, Fabian, 13 Aug, 9pm: Çeçeli performs with guest vocalist Fabian in a concert of old songs plus pieces TURKISH & WORLD from his latest album. Ferhat Göçer Symphonie The Symphonie Turkcell Starry Nights D’Orient Project, 16 Aug, 9pm: D’orient project features new and old songs plus Q & A Harbiye Cemil Topuzlu covers of songs by Amy Winehouse, Sting, Adele and Open-Air Theatre Pink Floyd. Candan Erçetin, 21 Aug, 9pm: Catch Monica Molina Ajda Pekkan, 1 Aug, 9pm: The Turkish superstar a concert by this powerful Turkish pop vocalist. takes the stage with her unforgettable songs and Kenan Doğulu, 22 Aug, 9pm: Doğulu is known for Known for her enchanting voice and indomitable stage presence. Emma Shapplin, 2 his energy, dance group and stage shows. Funda trademark love songs, Spanish diva Aug, 9pm: The French vocalist performs from her Arar, 23 Aug, 9pm: The Turkish vocalist performs Monica Molina performs at the Harbiye well-known hits from her 15-year career. most recent album, Dust of a Dandy. Sertab Erener, Hande Cemil Topuzlu Open-Air Theatre (6 3 Aug, 9pm: Popular Turkish pop vocalist Erener Yener Symphonic Concert, 25 Aug, 9pm: Yener performs a concert including her recent single Ben is accompanied by a 50-strong symphony orchestra. Aug). She shares her thoughts with us Öyle Birini Sevdim Ki. Serdar Ortaç, 5 Aug, 9pm: Yasmin Levy, 28 Aug, 9pm: The Israeli singer- about music, and İstanbul. songwriter performs her trademark Judaeo-Spanish This popular singer songwriter celebrates 20 years What does music mean to you? music. George Dalaras - Rembetiko Unplugged, since his first album.Monica Molina, 6 Aug, 9pm: Music is the best way I know how to express A singer of magical love songs, Molina performs 29 Aug, 9pm: Greek singer Dalaras is a living myself and it reaches one directly. I think it is from her latest album, Mar Blanca. Birsen Tezer legend, performing a wide range of songs with a one of the most beautiful ways to bring art & Bülent Ortaçgil, 7 Jul, 9pm: This dynamic concentration on Rembetiko, commonly known as duo has a long list of unforgettable songs to their the Greek Blues. Şebnem Ferah, 30 Aug, 9pm: to the people. names. MFÖ, Symphonic Concert, 8 Aug, 9pm: This popular Turkish vocalist performs songs of love, The popular Turkish group performs their classic pain and freedom. 2Cellos, 31 Aug, 9pm: Young hits with a full symphony orchestra. Iyeoka, 9 Croatian cellists Luka Sulic and Stjepan Hauser bring Aug, 9pm: Talented vocalist Iyeoka sings blues their own interpretation of pop, rock and classical numbers in traditional styles. Şevval Sam & music.Behind the Hilton Hotel, Harbiye. Kurtalan Ekspress, 12 Aug, 9pm: Turkish rock T: 0212 232 1652. A6. band Kurtalan Ekspress invites guest vocalıst Şevval Jolly Joker İstanbul Sam to share the stage. Mustafa Ceceli & Lara Halil Sezai, 1 Aug, 10pm: Vocalist Sezai performs his blend of Arabesque, soft rock and Latin guitar.Fettah Can, 2 Aug, 10pm: The Turkish vocalist perform from his third solo album Yalanlar Cumhuriyeti. Mabel Matiz, 8 Aug, 10pm: Known to critics and fans as an ‘urban bard’, Matiz has kept his identity quiet, releasing songs for two years over the Internet. www.jjistanbul.com. İstiklal Cad. Balo Sok. 22, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 0749. C5. Tell us some of the musicians and composers that you admire. Küçükçiftlik Park Beirut, 17 Aug, 9pm: The US band presents their I love Portuguese singers Cristina Branco and rocking blend of Western European and Balkan Amalia Rodrigues. I’m also very fond of some music. www.kucukciftlikpark.com. Kadırgalar Brazilian and Italian artists, like Caetano Yokuşu 5, Maçka. T: 0212 231 3045. B6. Veloso, Lucio Battisti and Zucchero, and of The Lovers course I cannot forget to mention the great Unusual Singing Superstar FESTIVALS Turkish singer Sezen Aksu, with whom I hope With hit songs including Küçükçiflik Park to work one day. Spente le Stelle and Cuor Senza Emma Shapplin performs at İstanbul’s Harbiye Cemil Topuzlu Rock Off Festival What about a particularly memorable Sangue from her first album concert? 2-4 Aug, 1pm: The festival’s debut features three Open-Air Theatre following the recent release of her latest album of Carmine Meo, Emma Shapplin days of music by Turkish and foreign metal and The concert that brings back the fondest sultry songs, Dust of a Dandy. sold 100,000 copies in just rock bands, headlined by Megadeth and Amon memories was my very first performance in three months. Amarth. Turkey. There are so many beautiful venues he French vocalist, whose real Soon gaining worldwide popularity, Emma Life in Color in my memory, like the Aspendos theatre in name is Crystèle Joliton, Shapplin released her second album, 9 Aug, 2.30pm: First held in Florida in 2006, this Antalya. I love to sing in open-air theatres. popular dance party, famed for the audience developed a fine Etterna, in 2002 as well as Le Concert de Tell us about your upcoming concert in T sprayed with paint throughout the show, now Istanbul. soprano voice in spite of her Caesarea, recorded at a live concert. With brings a great line-up of world-famous DJs to I try to include the songs that the audience family’s objections to her her astounding success, she continues Istanbul. expects from me, but there are always new pursuit of a musical career. to perform for eager audiences around Midtown Fest songs that I slowly introduce into my concerts. She began singing lead the world with her unique sensual style. Portishead, 20 Aug, 2pm: Iconic British group vocals in a hard rock group, Taşkışla Cad. Harbiye. T: 0212 232 1652. Portishead headlines this music festival, featuring What are your impressions of İstanbul? six bands. even while studying privately Istanbul is an exceptionally beautiful, special Küçükçiflik Park, Kadırgalar Cad. 4, Maçka. with a teacher from Paris city and one where you always discover A Musical T: 0212 231 3045. B6. new things and places. Every time I come to Conservatory. Raising her voice Istanbul, my love for the city, the country and to a professional level once again, Life Park Celebration its people grows. The culture, the arts, the she began working with French musician Jean- Isle Of Dreams, 5-7 Aug, from 10am: The The legendary British band Portishead, electronic open air music festival hosts an exciting landscape... one can only surrender to all that Patrick Capdevielle. The French songs she wrote going strong since 1991, headlines for programme of renowned DJs including Paul Turkey has to offer! for her first album Carmine Meo were translated Midtown Fest at Küçükçiftlik Park Oakenfold, Avicii, Pete Tong, Afrojack, Steve Aoki, Harbiye Cemil Topuzlu, Open-Air Theatre into Latin by a medieval historian, and the album Alesso, and many more. Mehmet Akif Tabiat Park, on 20 August (p. 21). Behind the Hilton Hotel, Harbiye. was released with Latin lyrics. Bahçeköy, Sarıyer. T: 0212 226 3987. T: 0212 232 1652. www.isle-of-dreams.com. B6.

20 WHERE İstanbul I AUGUST 2014 AUGUST 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 21 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE Duble Bar décor and objects d’art. Must-tries include their MEYHANE & FASIL Duble is on the terrace of a building given to the asparagus tempura and Peking duck roll; they also Elmadağ Meyhanesi Italian musician Giuseppe Donizetti, as a gift by make a mean Bloody Mary. Daily 12pm-2am. Keeping traditional meyhane culture alive, this Sultan Abdülmecit. The menu specialises in mezes www.group-29.com. charming meyhane serves a selection of traditional made with seasonal vegetables and seafood. Ahmet Adnan Saygun Cad. Ulus Parkı içi 71/1 Ulus. Turkish, Greek and Armenian mezes, and almost Wed, Fri and Sat nights are livened up by the music T: 0212 265 6181. Off map. certainly something you haven’t tried before. Every of DJ Aslı Köse. Sun-Thu 7pm-2am, Fri-Sat 6.30pm- 360istanbul Suada Club Friday and Saturday a live band plays old classical 2am.www.dublemezebar.com. Meşrutiyet Cad. Unique delicious cuisine, a warm ambience and Turkish favourites as well as modern popular songs. 85A, Palazzo Donizetti, Pera, Beyoğlu. a wonderful Bosphorus view combine with great Mon-Thu 6:30pm-12am. Fri & Sat 6:30pm-1am. T: 0212 244 0188. C5. music and house cocktails like the lifeguard and www.elmadagmeyhanesi.com. Cumhuriyet Cad. Sıdıka Pink Bikini in a lively, tropical atmosphere. Pak Apt. 30/A, Elmadağ, Taksim. With its quiet music and simple, wooden interior, Daily 10am-1pm. www.360istanbul.com. T: 0212 241 0320. B6. Sıdıka’s menu is inspired by healthy Aegean Suada Club, Kuruçeşme Park, Beşiktaş. Galata Meyhanesi cuisine. There’s special focus on the cuisine of T: 0212 2636623. Off map. This meyhane serves the flavours of Turkish cuisine Cunda, an island across from the town of Ayvalık, Anjelique as well as fasıl music, with a four-member group settled by immigrants from Crete. Three-storey venue overlooking the Bosphorus, a including violin, kanun, oud and drum providing Try the special shrimp and sea bream mezes. combination of restaurant, club and bar. The sea- a quintessentially Turkish atmosphere. Mon-Sat Mon-Sat 5pm-12am. www.sidika.com.tr. level floor offers the exotic flavours of East Asia, 7.30pm-00.30am. www.galata.com.tr. Şair Nedim Cad. 38, Beşiktaş. while the middle and top floors serve fine French Orhan Adli Apaydın Sok. 5/A, İstiklal Cad. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 259 7232. A7 / B7. dishes. Different music on each floor, sometimes T: 0212 293 1139. C5. by well-known DJs. Daily 6.30pm-4am. Garibaldi Meyhanesi Bars & Clubs www.anjelique.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. Salhane Sok. 5, Ortaköy. T: 0212 327 2844. A9. Named after Giuseppe Garibaldi, this Beyoğlu 29 Food Bar meyhane serves a rich selection of Turkish mezes Ulus 29 Lounge’s new reincarnation, 29 Food Bar Arabesque and features a fine group of musicians playing the maintains its impressive elegance with its stylish Presenting a new twist on the typical Lebanese best of Turkish classical music for a classic İstanbul evening out. www.garibaldi.com.tr. Mon-Sat 10am -1am. Perukar Çıkmazı 3, İstiklal Cad. Beyoğlu. T: 0535 719 0343. C5.

Kalamata Meyhane Sortie’s Tavern took its new name after its relocation to Akaretler. Its warm atmosphere and simple interior become even more inviting with live music performances five days a week. The venue is run by one of the few female tavern owners in Turkey, Beyza Gürbüzer, who also prepares the mezes herself. Daily 7:30pm-4am. Sortie, Muallim Naci Cad. 54, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 258 8788. Off map.

Latife Hanım Meyhanesi This meyhane with its ‘Republican’ theme is full of photographs of Atatürk and modern women Cool Nights on the of the new Turkish Republic, with Turkish classical songs playing round the clock. The meze selection is quite varied; make sure to sample the and Terrace . Sun-Thu 12pm-12am, Fri-Sat 12pm-1am. www.latifehanim.com. Overlooking Old İstanbul and the Golden Horn, Nu Teras, located İstiklal Cad. Bekar Sok. 22/A, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 0068. C5.

on the 6th floor of the Nupera building, is just the place to enjoy the Safi Meyhane sunset with a drink and some relaxing music. This modern meyhane in Şişhane serves mezes in the bar as well as the dining room. Home-style dishes feature for lunch, and the mezes include erving global cuisine with an emphasis Relax with a drink and enjoy the view from new flavours plus the venerable classics. Music on Turkish flavours, the bar, or dance into the night on their ranges from 70s and 80s Turkish pop and classical. Sthe restaurant glass dance floor. Or why not enjoy a www.safimeyhane.com. Meşrutiyet Cad. 84, transforms into a special live concert and party until Şişhane. T: 0530 240 4908. C4. nightclub on Friday dawn. Summer Nights on the and Saturday Nu Teras’ vast cocktail menu modern meyhanes nights, playing has something to please Aheste Bosphorus favourite tunes everyone; why not try the This warm, retro-style restaurant offers 20 different The entertainment hub Sortie is this summer’s hotspot, with plenty of choices for from the 80s and Martini, or Strawberry mezes from Turkey, Iran, and Greece, dining. Choose from Kalamata with its Ottoman and traditional İstanbul dishes, Café 90s. Its quality Ice Monkey made with including favourites such as calamari with , de Paris with signature 24-spice sauce, Kazancılar for fine , Minyon for light sweetbreads and confite. There are food, music, view strawberries and raspberries. dishes, limitless meat at Al Catra, Mori for fish, and Narita Niwa where fans will live jazz performances to enhance the evening. get their fill. With bars to choose from, there are plenty of reasons to continue late and cocktails make Daily 9am-1am. it one of the city’s Meşrutiyet Cad. 67, Tepebaşı, www.ahestegalata.com. Hacı Mimi Mah. into the night. favourite summer night Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 6070. Serdar-ı Ekrem Cad. 30A, Beyoğlu. Muallim Naci Cad. 54, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 327 8585. spots. www.nupera.com.tr T: 0212 245 4345. C5.

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serves dishes from around the world. One of the www.livingindigo.com. İstiklal Cad. Akarsu Sok. city’s most elegant spots, it offers some of the Mısır Apt. 1/2/4/5, Galatasaray. finest food and DJ performances anywhere. T: 0212 244 8568. C5. www.fenixistanbul.com. Thu-Sat noon-4am. Sun-Wed noon-2am. Nispetiye Cad. 79, . Jolly Joker İstanbul T: 0212 265 5588. Off map. With its fine acoustics and infrastructure, this is a groundbreaking venue in sound quality in Fosil Turkey. Among the many genres performed are With its unusual retro décor and unique cocktails live electronic, acoustic, funk, pop, rock, hip hop, such as Libido and Oh Papatya, Fosil is the perfect house and techno. Mon-Sat 9:30pm-2am. place for a night of rock music, from Jim Morrison www.jjistanbul.com. İstiklal Cad. Balo Sok. 22, to Elvis, The Beatles and Guns N’ Roses. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 0749. C5. Mon & Tue 4pm-midnight. Wed-Sat 4pm-4am. www.fosil.com.tr. Kemankeş Cad. 34/C, K:3, Kiki Karaköy. T: 0507 812 8531. D5. Cocktails made with homemade , a comfortable environment and great music come Garajistanbul together at this gastropub featuring Italian, A contemporary performance arts centre located Spanish and world cuisine. DJs play every night. in Beyoğlu, staging a variety of performances inc Tue-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri & Sat 5pm-5am, Sun theatre, dance, festivals, exhibitions, and concerts. 5pm-midnight. www.kiki.com.tr. Kiki Sıraselviler, Daily 8:30pm-2am. www.garajistanbul.org. Tomtom Sıraselviler Cad. 42, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 5373. C5. Mah. Yeni Çarşı Cad. Kaymakam Reşat Bey Sok. Kiki Ortaköy, Osmanzade Sok. 8, Ortaköy. 11/A, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 4499. C5. T: 0212 258 5524. Off map.

Gaspar Le Fumoir Pavillion Located in an old three-storey, high-ceilinged This Bar In The Çırağan Palace Kempinski building, Karaköy venue is always full to İstanbul boasts a splendid view directly onto the overflowing thanks to its quality French food bosphorus. With palm trees, water pipe service and great music. Mon-Thu 10am-12am. Fri&Sat and comfortable seating, the venue exudes REINA 10am-4am. Müeyyeyzade Mah. Necatibey Cad. Romance Savour, premium , malt whiskies, Muallim Naci Cad. 44, Ortaköy. T: 0212 259 5919. Arapoğlan Sok. 6, Karaköy. T: 0212 293 6660. D5. exclusive wines, champagnes, and cocktails. Daily 7/24. www.kempinski.com. Çırağan Cad. 32, Gold Bar Beşiktaş. T: 0212 326 4646. Off Map. restaurant with its predictable hummus, belly Bleu Lounge & Grill Gold Bar has a brilliant, six-metre long aquarium. dancers and oriental glitz, Arabesque successfully With a Bosphorus view and comfortable ambience, The main area, available for small parties, is Limoncello combines the oriental spirit with contemporary Bleu serves tempting cocktails and gourmet flanked by a comfortable seating area with low Named after the famous Italian liqueur, this nightlife. With walls decorated by famous Beirut flavours all day long. In addition, they feature a sofas. This welcoming venue also features a lush exclusive boutique nightspot boasts colourful graffiti artist Yahya Muhakkin. Daily 8pm-2am different style of live music every day of the week. green terrace, a perfect place to take a pleasant furniture under trees, fresh fruit cocktails, Taşkışla Cad. 19, Demokrasi Parkı Yanı, Maçka. Daily 10am-2am. www.ritzcarlton.com. break from the bustle of city life. Daily 9am-2am. and performances by top name DJs. Tue-Sat T: 0212 231 0356. B6. Ritz Carlton, İstanbul, Askerocağı Cad. 6, Şişli. Every Wed&Fri 7pm-11pm Lounge / Chill Out DJ 10pm-3am. www.limoncello.com.tr. Süleyman Seba T: 0212 334 4188. B6. sessions. www.editionhotels.com. Cad. 34, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 258 9822. B7. Babylon The İstanbul Edition Hotel, Büyükdere Cad. 136, Chilai Enjoy concerts, an extensive menu, cocktail Levent. T: 0212 317 7700. Off map. Lucca pitchers, electro, house, chill out and world Located directly on the Bosphorus, the venue Spacious restaurant-bar with ample armchairs, long music. Daily 8pm-4am. www.babylon.com.tr. brings a breath of fresh air to İstanbul’s nightlife Hayal Kahvesi wooden tables and a high ceiling, serving as a café Asmalımescit, Şehbender Sok. 3, Beyoğlu. with its unusual contemporary décor and This popular venue hosts live performances by until 7pm, after which the menu offers a blend of T: 0212 292 7368. C5. bold dishes prepared by renowned chefs. The different bands every night. world cuisines and the DJ performance takes over. three-floor dining complex includes a sushi bar, www.hayalkahvesibeyoglu.com.tr. This is one of İstanbul’s most popular bars, and Babylon Lounge bistro, lounge, bar, dining room, shop, Hayal Kahvesi Beyoğlu, Daily 4pm-4am. İstiklal Cad. popular with the after-work crowd. Daily 10am- One of New York’s most cutting edge music c h a r c u t e r i e a n d a r t g a l l e r y . M o n - S a t 1 0 p m - 2 a m . Meşelik Sok. 10, Taksim. T: 0212 244 2558. C5. 2am. www.luccastyle.com. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 51/B, venues, Babylon Lounge is a place where young www.chilai.com.tr. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 60, Bebek. Hayal Kahvesi Çubuklu, Daily 4pm-4am. Bebek. T: 0212 257 1255. Off map. musicians create, discuss, meet the masters, and T: 0212 263 6315. Off map. There are 2 restaurants; Tapas and İstanbul Balık. develop new ideas and projects. With its own www.hayalkahvesibeyoglu.com. Masquerade Club unique musical scene, its stage is open to anyone Corridor Burunbahçe, Eski Gazhane Binaları, Çubuklu. Famous R&B singers and DJs from Turkey and This dark and intimate bar located in the deepest and everyone making good music. T: 0216 413 6880. Off map. abroad perform music from around the world Mon-Sat 10pm-2am. www.babylon.com.tr. corner of the Milli Reasürans Çarşısı (market) hosts at this new club with a capacity of 2000. Making Jurnal Sok. 4, Asmalımescit. art shows and photographic exhibitions. House Hodjapasha Culture Center a name for itself with its unusual concepts and T: 0212 245 3800. C5. music during weekdays changes to 80s tunes later This cultural centre located in the historic performances, Masquerade creates a visual and in the evening; alternative rock and popular hits Hocapaşa Hamam presents an ever-changing musical celebration. Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 11pm-5am. Biber Bar from the 80s and 90s dominate the sounds during series of exhibitions and performances, presenting Yıldız Posta Cad. Sinan Pasajı No:38/26 Gayrettepe. Homely atmosphere suitable for dinner and drinks weekends. Mon-Sat 5pm-1.30am. Milli Reasürans the finest examples of Turkish culture. The brick T: 0212 347 1347. Mobile: 0533 027 0387. with jazz or lounge music in the background. The Çarşısı, 47-48, Abdi İpekçi Cad. Nişantaşı. and stone building with its high central dome hosts mas queradeistanbul.com. Off map. menu of mainly İstanbul and Southern American T: 0212 343 0241. A6. many fascinating events including the Mevlevi cuisines includes to burgers, , tapas, Sema Ceremony (Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun 7.30pm) Members İstanbul filet mignon and chicken shish . Çubuklu 29 and the Hodja Pasha Dance Show (Tue & Thur An impressive-looking Bosphorus nightspot where, Daily L & D & N. www.biberbar.com. Overlooking the Bosphorus, Çubuklu 29 occupies 8pm, Sat & Sun 9pm) performed by the Hocapaşa the excellent DJs play mostly Turkish hits, with the Cevdet Paşa Cad. 26/A, Bebek. Off map. a spacious building illuminated by lanterns. In Dance Team. www.hodjapasha.com. Ankara Cad. fun continuing until the first arrival of dawn. addition to its pool open during the day. Tandoori Hocapaşa Hamamı Sok. 3B, Sirkeci. Tue-Sat 10pm-4am. Muallim Naci Cad. 71, Ortaköy. Bird lamb, with and grilled meatballs are T: 0212 511 4626/4636. E5. T: 0212 236 7357. Off map. Unique flavours from world cuisines are served up just some of the specialties on offer. in a warm atmosphere dominated by music from Daily 6pm-3am. www.cubuklu29.com. Indigo Minimüzikhol the 50s and 60s. The menu here features mostly Barbaros Cad.Paşabahçe Yolu 22, Çubuklu. Known as a temple of electronic music, this club If you’re out to avoid ‘subculture’. Set your own meat dishes with impressive portions, such as steak trend and dance to world music, local sounds and T: 0216 322 2829. Off map. offers a vibrant programme based on alternative tartare and green curries, with their own special and electronic music, with new sounds and electronic beats, then check out this new spot cocktails. Mon-Sat 11am-2pm. www.bird.com.tr. Fenix İstanbul reflecting the developments in the world of in hip Cihangir. DJ performances, special events Meşrutiyet Cad. 103, Şişhane, Beyoğlu. This restaurant and nightclub, with a magnificent music. Fri, Sat 11pm-5am. and a very unique atmosphere created by to its T: 0212 245 7085. C4. high-ceilinged bar decorated with palm trees,

24 WHERE İstanbul I AUGUST 2014 august 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 25 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE

reservations. Daily 7pm-4am. www.reina.com.tr. host of special events including tango dances on night progresses. Daily 8:30pm-5am. Muallim Naci Cad. 44, Ortaköy. T: 0212 259 5919. A9. Wednesday nights. Daily 5pm-2am. İstiklal Cad. 12, www.etilersamdan.com. Nispetiye Cad. 92, Etiler. wıne bars K:6, Fitaş Binası. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 2451. C4. Office: İhsan Aksoy Sok. 5/8, Çamlık, Etiler. Rouge Sofyalı 9 T: 0212 257 3042. Off map. Located near Taksim Square, this classic wine Very popular two-storey restaurant with the Unter, Karaköy bar has over 260 Turkish and foreign wines, atmosphere of an Aegean-Mediterranean . Unter’s ground floor is a café, the next is a lounge, Zelda Zonk accompanied by local , appetizers and Greek music and cuisine including a choice of 33 and the top floor a party space. Try the Caipiroska Newly opened on the upper floor of the Gradiva main courses. Pleasant atmosphere, with walls meze (appetizers). Mon-Sat 12pm-1am. cocktail with Jaegermeister, and the long relaxed Hotel overlooking the Golden Horn, Zelda Zonk filled with art. Daily 10am-2am. Lamartin Cad. 11/3, www.sofyali.com. Asmalımescit, Sofyalı Sok. 9, Sunday . Private overnight parties with has a simple menu, but after 11pm it turns into a Taksim. T: 0212 237 0190. B6. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 0362. C5. music by DJs promise great entertainment until bar with DJ performances until dawn. Mon-Sat dawn. Tue-Thu 9am-12am, Fri 9am-2am, Sat 9am- 10pm-4am.www.gradivahotels.com. Bankalar Cad. Sensus Wine & Boutique Sortie 2am, Sun 9am-10pm. www.unter.com.tr. 2/1, Karaköy. T: 0530 382 3822. D4. Owned by the Anemon Hotels, Sensus doubles Located in the old bosphorus neighbourhood of Kemankeş, Karaali Kaptan Sok. 4, Karaköy, Beyoğlu. as a wine and cheese shop. Close to the historic Kuruçeşme. Sortie welcomes its guests with Turkish Zilly Pera T: 0212 244 5151. D5. Galata Tower, this typical wine bar boasts music on Wednesdays and R&B on Sunday nights. Falling somewhere in between a disco and exclusively local cheeses and wines. Daily 10am- Daily 7pm-4am. www.sortie.com.tr. Muallim Naci W Lounge nightclub, Zilly is one of Istanbul’s most popular 10pm. www.sensuswine.com. Anemon Hotel Cad. 54, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 327 8585. Off map. One of the trendiest spots in İstanbul, hosting a music spots. Sporting a 70s atmosphere, Zilly keeps Galata, Bereketzade, Büyükhendek Cad. 5, multitude of parties accompanied by fine music. the fun going until dawn with old and new Turkish Kuledibi. T: 0212 245 5657. Suada Club Extensive menu, stylish decoration and ambiance. songs. Tue-Sat 11pm-4:30am. Meşrutiyet Cad. 69, D4. İstanbul residents and visitors alike take refuge Tue-Sat 24 hours. www.wistanbul.com.tr. Beyoğlu. T: 0533 575 3397. C4. from the heat of summer in the soft Bosphorus Süleyman Seba Cad. 22, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. breeze sweeping the pool and restaurants of Suada T: 0212 381 2121. B7. Club. Easily accessible thanks to its central location in the city, and housing six restaurants, Suada Club ANJELIQUE is sure be a hot spot this year as well. An ideal spot TURKISH MUSIC Muallim Naci Cad. Salhane Sok. 5, Ortaköy. T: 0212 327 2844. for an aperitif after work, the middle bar of Suada Club entertains its guests throughout the summer Cahide Cümbüş with live performances. www.suadaclub.com.tr. Guests are given different J&B keys with designs based on the concept of each room at unusual decor. 11pm-4am. www.minimuzikhol.com. Pop Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 263 7300. Off map. Sıraselviler Cad. Soğancı Sok. 7, Cihangir. This venue in Nupera has something to suit every Cahide, which takes a very unique approach Sultana’s 1001 Nights Show to entertainment. Bellboys take guests and T: 0212 245 1996. C5. taste, playing top hits from the 80s to the present. With its informal atmosphere and great selection Venue offering authentic Turkish-themed shows. their luggage to the selected rooms. Fairy tale of drinks, Pop has become one of the most popular Tables surround a raised centre stage, featuring characters approach in an erotic and humorous Just off İstiklal Caddesi and much frequented by spots in Pera. Wed, Fri, Sat 12am-4am. shows that begin with belly-dancing, followed by way. In the wee hours, Cahide’s show team artists and writers, Mojo is loved for its alternative www.nupera.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 67, Tepebaşı. folk dances and a harem show. . presents a wet dance performance under a shower. rock, jazz, ethnic and rock music as well as live Daily 9am-5am. www.sultanasb-nights.com. Daily 7pm-2am. Kadırgalar Cad. Maçka Demokrasi T: 0212 245 6070. C4. music by local and foreign bands on Mon-Sat Cumhuriyet Cad. 40/D, Elmadağ. Parkı içi 2, Maçka. T: 0532 513 7789. B6. 10pm-4am. Daily 12am-4am. Public House T: 0212 219 3904. B6. www.mojobeyoglu.com. Büyükparmakkapı Sok. 26, This cosy pub is ideally equipped to host parties Club Albüm Supper Club Turkish pop parties every night, at this nightspot Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 2927. C5. and other special events. The cold and hot snacks, shots and pitcher cocktails are delicious. Part of a chain launched in Amsterdam, this overlooking the Bosphorus, are followed by live Nardis Jazz Club Daily 8am-2am. Asmalımescit Mah. 9, Beyoğlu. nightclub offers electronic, chill out, funk and percussion and dance shows. The deluxe drink A true jazz club for real local jazz fans, with live house music, and an alternative menu. Daily menu serves a host of original, tempting cocktails. T: 0534 211 6062. C4. music nightly modern, ethnic and creative non-jazz 11:30pm-5am. www.supperclub.com. Muallim Naci Daily 11pm-5am.Muallim Naci Cad. 71, Kuruçeşme. works. Extensive menu inc finger food, steak and Reina Cad. 65, Ortaköy. T: 0212 261 1988. A9. T: 0212 236 7256.Off map. chicken plus salads and desserts. Mon-Sat 8:30am- Gazing over the Bosphorus, you can begin 1:30am. www.nardisjazz.com. Galata Kulesi Sok. 8, your night out dining in one of its six different Topless Teras Hittaera This popular İstiklal Caddesi meeting spot at the Playing Turkish songs from past to present, this Galata. T: 0212 244 6327. D5. restaurants featuring diverse themes. Entertainment every night with chill out, pop and top of the Fitaş building boasts a terrace with a venue hosts prominent DJs, plus top cocktails and Nomads Turkish pop music. Very glamorous; phone to make magnificent view over the Golden Horn, with a nonstop entertainment. Tue-Sat 11:30pm-4am. At Nomads, dishes are served with on Meşrutiyet Cad. 89/A, across from the Pera Palas large brass trays, accompanied by DJ Hakan’s Hotel, Asmalımescit, Beyoğlu. T: 0536 594 1139. C4. sublime mix of Arab and Western music. With a bright, airy garden surrounded by alcoves with Off Pera pillows and couches, and Bosphorus views from the A popular venue for musicians and actors, Off top floor. Tue-Sat; 8pm-2am. Pera provides a nonstop programme of Turkish www.nomads.nl. Muallim Naci Cad. 65, Ortaköy. music. This pop spot in Beyoğlu’s Asmalımescit neighbourhood holds different themes through T: 0212 258 0777. A9. the week: Tuesday nights with Asu Maro, selections Nupera from classical, opera and famous musicals by Launched in 2001 in the 200 year-old Passage Güvenç Dağüstün on Wednesdays. de Petit Champs, Nupera houses a variety of Daily 4pm-4am. Gönül Sok. Canova Apartmanı restaurants, a bar and private club with an open 14/A, Asmalımescit. T: 0212 249 2697. C4. terrace during the summer – something for everyone. Daily 6pm-12am. Fri&Sat 6pm-4am. Scotch Disco www.nupera.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 67, Tepebaşı, With a 20-year history, this venue offers Turkish music and DJs, offering the unique experience of Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 6070. C4. the music halls of the 1980s. Serves beer and fresh Orient Bar popcorn. Daily 10:30pm-5am.

Breakfast, Turkish and Mediterranean treats and a www.scotchclub.com.tr. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 29/1, Good Music, Fine Food Those in search of a great night out in Karaköy need look no farther than Fosil, wide variety of snack dishes served on an elegant. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 246 5696. A6. The meals are complemented by original cocktails offering a cocktail menu as well as snack foods, salads and steaks and its popular Şamdan Etiler plus domestic and foreign wines served all day. Fosil Hamburger. You’ll also enjoy rock and roll nights with music from all your old Offering a magnificent interior and selections Daily 10pm-2am. www.jumeirah.com. Pera Palace favourites, four nights a week. Hotel Jumeriah, Meşrutiyet Cad. 52, Tepebaşı, FENIX İSTANBUL from world cuisines, Şamdan turns into a popular entertainment spot at night. The evening starts Kemankeş Cad. 34/C, K 3, Karaköy. T: 0212 812 8531. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 3774000. C4. Nispetiye Cad. 79, Etiler. T: 0212 265 5588. with soft chansons, replaced by disco hits as the

26 WHERE İstanbul I AUGUST 2014 AUGUST 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 27 SHOPPING SHOPPING

Timepieces with Italian Flair Exclusive

The renowned Italian watch company Officine Panerai has opened its first İstanbul store in one of the city’s most stylish districts, Nişantaşı. Watch Series On the back of the case, irst opening in 1960 in the Italian city of Panerai’s limited-edition Florence as both a watch workshop and İstanbul model bears a Fstore, Panerai originally made sensitive relief of Hagia Sophia, a measuring instruments for the Italian Army. Later, quintessential landmark it began producing diving watches for submarine for both the Byzantine and commanders to use on special missions. It Ottoman empires. The most continued to produce military watches only until outstanding architectural 1996, when it put these fine timepieces onto the masterpiece of its international market. period, Hagia Still bound to that tradition with its Luminor Sophia now and Radiomir collections, Panerai’s 55th shop, features on two a large space on two floors, has now opened in exclusive Nişantaşı’s Abdi İpekçi Avenue. Panerai The Panerai VIP Lounge, with decor inspired watches. by a fine sailing ship, invites customers to get to know its prestigious and unique collection.

Abdi İpekçi Cad. Altın Sok. 3, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 5959. www.panerai.com

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galleries. With its national and international brands, Ataköy Plus SHOPPING CENTRE MAP pleasant cafes, restaurants and quality nightlife, Ataköy Plus Shopping Centre is open to it is a favourite area especially with İstanbul’s exploration with an architectural aesthetics, elite crowd. Nişantaşı lies at busy hub of several spacious circulation spaces, and special services major streets (the busiest of which are Teşvikiye, that make shopping an insatiable experience. Valikonağı and Rumeli Avenues) and it’s easy to get Situated on the coastal road only five minutes from to, a quick dolmuş ride from Taksim Square. A6. the Atatürk International Airport, Ataköy Plus offers 140 brands original designs. www.atakoyplus.com. Daily 10am-10pm. Adnan Kahveci Bulvarı, Ataköy SHOPPING CENTRES 6. Kısım Ataköy, Bakırköy. T: 0212 661 7515. Off map.

Addresİstanbul Capacity With a host of leading Turkish and foreign Four-storey shopping centre with 180 stores home furnishing and houseware stores offering, carrying Turkish and foreign brands. Sephora, hundreds of brands, this shopping centre has Banana Republic, Gap and many more brands everything you need to decorate an entire flat in cater to a vast range of tastes while Electro World a single day. Take a break for a delicious treat at serves technology-savvy customers. Fast food, Kitchenette Restaurant, and enjoy live music on restaurants and movie theaters. Daily 10am-10pm. Sundays. Daily 10am-7pm. www.capacity.com.tr. Zeytinlik Mah. Fişekhane www.addresistanbul.com. Halide Edip Adıvar Cad. 7, Bakırköy. T: 0212 661 6705. Off map. Bulvarı Mah. Çiftecevizler Deresi Sok. 4, Şişli. T: 0212 320 6262. Off map. Capitol Major shopping and entertainment centre with Akasya Acıbadem stores, restaurants and fourteen movie theatres. This largest shopping mall on İstanbul's Asian side Various activities organised every week. Daily offers famous world brands, 10 movie theatres, a 10am-10pm. www.capitol.com.tr. Mahir İz Cad. concert hall, a theatre, and Kidzania, where children Altunizade, Üsküdar. T: 0216 554 7777. Off map. can meet, play and take part in over 60 different activities. Daily 10am-10pm. www.ak-asya.com. City’s Major Shopping Makers, Jewellers, Mirror Makers, etc. This is the Çeçen Sok. Koru Etabı, Koru Kule, K:36, 192, City’s Nişantaşı is a centre of fashion and style. place for hand-woven carpets, jewellery, traditional Acıbadem. T: 0216 428 3132. Off map. Leading national and international brands, Areas Turkish art, famous Turkish style silverware, copper, delightful cafés and restaurants, dazzling bronze giftware and decorative objects, ceramics, Akmerkez architecture. Entertainment for children and 7 Akaretler Row Houses onyx, leather products and souvenirs from all over Offering the best local and foreign brands in movie theatres. Citylife’s cinema foyer with its Built in 1875 by Ottoman Sultan Abdülaziz, the Turkey. Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm. an elegant shopping atmosphere as well as an peerless sea view adds to the pleasure. The fun beautiful Akaretler Row Houses has a new lease on www.kapalicarsi.org.tr. Beyazıt-Eminönü. E4. array of entertainment and social venues, Joker lasts late into the evening. Daily 10am-10pm. life since its huge renovation. New life has been Entertainment Park promises a good time for www.citysnisantasi.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 162, breathed into this Beşiktaş neighbourhood and it’s Çukurcuma children and adults alike. Papermoon, located at Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 3333. A6. now one of İstanbul’s foremost cultural quarters, World-renowned for its antique shops, this the Ulus entrance, serves . offering a host of colourful art galleries, stylish area has the atmosphere of an old Ottoman Daily 10am-10pm. www.akmerkez.com.tr. Demirören İstiklal cafés and restaurants, and a tempting selection neighbourhood. Antique shops are scattered Nispetiye Cad. Etiler. T: 0212 282 0170. Opened upon the rebuilding of the Sin-Em Han, of designer shops. Officially named Şair Nedim through the streets. Mon-Fri 9am-7pm. Sat-Sun Shopping Centre Map (p.32). home in the 1930s to the famous Saray pudding Caddesi, this sloping street, with the W Hotel as 9am-7pm. Çukurcuma Cad. Firuzağa Mah. shop and the Lüks cinema, this 25,000 square a prominent landmark, is lined with commercial Faik Paşa Cad. Turnacıbaşı Sok. Beyoğlu. Aqua Florya metre venue is home to a host of famous shops galleries such as Rampa, Art On Gallery and T: 0505 709 3857. C5. This shopping mall offering world-class brands and including Sephora, Brandroom, the Satürn Galerist, and design house Autobahn. Find luxury entertainment hides an added surprise: The İstanbul technology chain, the Gap and Atasun Optik. Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar jewel-encrusted pieces at Sevan Bıçakçı, tasteful Aquarium, the largest thematic aquarium in the world. Daily 10am-10pm.www.demirorenistiklal.com. Alongside the New Mosque (Yeni Cami) and next linens and household items at Haremlique, and Learn about aquatic life in the world's oceans, lakes T: 0212 249 9999.İstiklal Cad. 52-54, Beyoğlu. to the Flower Market, the Egyptian Bazaar is one of C5. prepare for the Big Day at Vakko Wedding. Should and rivers, and enjoy a meal at one of the many cafes the oldest covered bazaars in İstanbul, renowned you need a break after all that browsing and and restaurants overlooking the Marmara Sea. Galleria for its herbalists. In addition to spices, Turkish shopping, tempting treats await at stylish Cafe Daily 10am-10pm. www.aquaflorya.com.tr. A major shopping centre featuring world delight (lokum), and other souvenirs, natural Minyon (part of W Hotel), or taste top Turkish wines Şenlikköy Mah.Yeşilköy Halkalı Cad. 93, Florya. brands as well as a broad range of restaurants, medicines, herbs, flower seeds, roots and barks of entertainment, sports activities and striking paired with cheeses at Corvus. T: 0212 574 5900. Off map. www.akaretler.com.tr. Süleymen Seba Cad. rare plants used in traditional medicine as well as a interiors. Daily 10am-10pm. vast selection of dried nuts, delicatessen products Maçka, Beşiktaş. B7. www.galleria-atakoy.com. Sahilyolu, Ataköy. and other food items are available. Mon-Sat Guidelines T: 0212 559 9560. Off map. Bağdat Caddesi 8:30am-6:30pm. Eminönü Square. E4. Named after Murat IV’s successful campaign to This directory, grouped by category, is a list of İstanbul Cevahir recapture Baghdad, this posh street on İstanbul’s İstiklal Caddesi establishments recommended by the editors of The city centre’s largest shopping mall lets you Asian side extends from Kızıltoprak in Kadıköy to In the historical district of Beyoğlu, which was the Where Magazine and includes regular shop any time you want. In addition to a slew Cevizli in Maltepe. The section between Suadiye primary neighbourhood of the foreign community advertisers. of top-rated stores, it also boasts cafés and and Caddebostan is especially well known for its as well as non-Muslim Ottoman subjects, Beyoğlu restaurants offering flavours from around the gradually attained a European look with the arrival MAP LOCATIONS exclusive shops, cafés and restaurants frequented world, a movie theatre, state theatres and the Fun of foreign embassies as well as Christians from Note that the references in bold at the end of by local youth and business people. Many top Lab Entertainment World for children. Daily 10am- Galata, eventually forming a new community in each listing (A1; B5 etc) refer to the coordinates Turkish and world brands have at least one shop on the street maps on pages 70-71. 10pm. www.istanbulcevahir.com. Büyükdere Cad. 17th-century İstanbul. The allure of the street here. Well served by public transportation, this 22/A, Şişli. T: 0212 368 6900. Off map. faded in the 1970s but was followed by major bustling street with its chic restaurants and cafes information revival in early 1990s. It is now a the city’s major İstinyePark is an excellent place to go window shopping and Visitors should note that Value Added Tax (VAT) entertainment district, full of bars, clubs, cafés, people watching. Off map. varies between 8% and 18% and is generally In addition to the top brands this shopping restaurants, and scores of top shopping brands. included in the price of goods. Overseas visitors centre offers, it stands out with its architecture. Covered (Grand) Bazaar Beyoğlu. C5. can shop tax-free in Turkey recouping around 5 Designed to cater to a host of tastes and needs, it Built in 1461, this amazing complex, the world’s to 13% of these amounts, respectively. demonstrates a distinct concept with 147 clothing Nişantaşı oldest shopping center, is a colossal maze taking Look for shops with signs for Global Refund stores and 43 world brands. Various theme areas Nişantaşı is both a lively and bustling in 66 streets and 4,000 stores— all covered. Each (T: 0212 232 1121) and DSD Refund including Brands Street, Nostalgic Marketplace neighbourhood and an area known for its exclusive (T: 0212 546 0790). street in the Bazaar is named after the specific and Children’s Entertainment Centre in addition shopping centres, brand-name stores, malls and guild that once inhabited it, such as the Kalpak to nearly 40 cafés and restaurants, and 12 movie

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Çobançeşme, Koşuyolu Bulvarı 3, Bakırköy. SHOPPING CENTRE MAP T: 0212 414 9494. Shopping Centre Map (p.30).

Metro City Accessible by subway, this shopping centre offering world brands, restaurants, and book stores is also popular for its regular events. Beymen Club and Vakko stores offer top-line smart and smart- casual men’s and women’s clothing. Daily 10am- 10pm. www.metrocity.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 171, 1. Levent. T: 0212 344 0660. Shopping Centre Map (p.32).

Optimum Bringing the outlet concept into the city centre, Optimum İstanbul serves nearly nine million visitors a year in the bustling neighbourhood of Kadıköy on the Asian side. In addition to famous brands like Tommy Hilfiger, Fracassetti and Diesel, you’ll find local brands like Derimod, Vakko and Atasay. There’s a huge daylit food court and open-air terraces, plus a 540 m2 ice skating rink. Daily 10am-10pm. www.optimumoutlet.com. İstiklal Sok. 10/4, Yenisahra, Ataşehir. T: 0216 664 1414. Off map. Tailoring Palladium Largest shopping centre in İstanbul’s Asian side. In addition to 170 large stores, movie theatres and an excellent food court, it also includes a 32-storey your residence. Its inspiring architecture includes a colossal glass hemisphere for a roof. The chic mall personality also houses world-renowned brands including Marks&Spencer, C&A, Banana Republic, and Zara. Daily 10am-10pm. www.palladium.com.tr. Barbaros Mah. Halk Cad. 8/B, Yeni Sahra, Kozyatağı. T: 0216 663 1500. Off map.

Sapphire At 261 metres high, İstanbul Sapphire is the city's tallest combined shopping mall and andresidential building; it’s also Turkey’s first ‘green’ structure, and one of few such buildings in the world. Combining western, traditional and modern architecture, Sapphire presents a modern shopping experience with prestigious world theatres inc a 3D IMAX screen. Daily 10am-10pm. www.kanyon.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Levent. brands and entertainment. Daily 10am-10pm. www.istinyepark.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. 73, T: 0212 317 5300. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). www.istanbulsapphire.com. Emniyet Evleri, Eski Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 5555. Büyükdere Cad. 1/1, Levent. T: 0212 268 8080. Mall of İstanbul Shopping Centre Map (p.32). Shopping Centre Map (p.32). Offering both indoor and outdoor street shopping, Forumİstanbul this mall contains around 350 shops, elegant Trump Towers Mall In addition to shopping, Forum İstanbul offers an gourmet restaurants, cinemas, arts events and This mall that offers shopping, movies, a place to perform music, a gym and a convention hall also extensive choice of leisure activities. At the top of MoiPark for children. One of Turkey’s largest has a play center and ice skating school for kids. the list of attractions is Turkuazoo, Turkey's first and shopping malls, it also features the Traditional Daily 10am-10pm. www.trumpistanbul.com.tr. biggest aquarium. The mall also boasts a 10-screen Art Street offering examples of Turkish art. Karkuyusu Sok. 19, Şişli. T: 0212 348 7867. Off map. movie theatre, a game and entertainment centre, Daily 10am-10pm. www.mallofistanbul.com.tr Süleyman Demirel Bulvarı, Mahmutbey, bowling alley, play spaces for children and a host of Vialand Başakşehir. T: 0212 801 1000. dining choices. Look out for the newest addition: Off map. Turkey’s first world-class mega theme park offers Jurassic Land, an 8000-m2 family entertainment Marmara Forum a host of different entertainment alternatives centre set due to open later this year. Daily 10am- The Marmara Forum shopping centre is home to including a show centre, shopping centre, a 5000- 10pm. www.forumistanbul.com.tr. Kocatepe Mah. world brands, and brings new ideas and trends seat auditorium plus a train, a roller coaster and other rides and theme zones. www.vialand.com.tr. Paşa Cad. Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 443 1350. to Turkey. In addition to famous men’s, women’s Yeşilpınar Mah. Girne Mah. Eyüp. T: 0212 618 9797. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). and kids’ clothing and lingerie brands – including Massimo Dutti, Benetton, Mango, Lacoste, DKNY, Off map. Kanyon GAP and Armani Kids – you’ll also find top national Zorlu Center Major shopping centre with 160 stores, 9 movie and international jewellery brands like Atasay, This mall in the heart of the city is home to luxury theatres and a health and sports club. Pleasant Gülaylar, Assos and Swarovski. The mall is also boutique stores including Beymen, plus Turkey’s atmosphere offering the best Turkish and world home to 15 cinemas, and the largest Food Court first outlets of brands such as Brooks Brothers, brands, gourmet restaurants, cafés, open air in İstanbul, with 65 different cafes and restaurants. Industrie Denim, Cos, Lanvin, Pomellato, Stella Mim Kemal Öke Cad. İkizler Apt. 14/3, Nişantaşı, İstanbul / Turkey Tel: 0212 247 0445 performances and dazzling colours and sounds. And not forgetting the two separate terraces with McCartney and Superdry. The venue also has 14 Restaurants and cafés in Kanyon offer early views of the Marmara Sea. Daily 10am-10pm. cinemas, including two VIP cinemas with 1,600 breakfasts and late dinners. Daily 10am-10pm. www.marmara-forum.com.tr. Osmaniye, seats each. Daily 10am-10pm. www.zorlucenter.com. www.corentte.com 32 WHERE İstanbul I AUGUST 2014 SHOPPING SHOPPING

Clothing – Children www.dolcegabbana.com. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3398. Off map. Miki House SHOPPING CENTRE MAP Japan’s most famous and prestigious children’s Emporio Armani brand, Miki House is a favourite for boys and girls Italy’s most famous fashion brand, Emporio aged up to ten years old. There’s a vast choice of Armani offers ready-to-wear, jewellery, lingerie, items from clothing, bags and packs, a wide range glasses and watches while renewing itself with the of shoes, toys, hats and other accessories. appealing and unique designs of its EA07 watch Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.mikihouseturkey.com. and Kaka jean creations. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. Maçka Cad. Narmanlı Apt. 24/B, Nişantaşı. www.emporioarmani.com. İstinyePark Shopping T: 0212 236 3649. A6. Centre 519, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 6110. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). Clothing – Men Giorgio Armani The miraculous Italian line that shapes fashion with Corentte its simple yet stylish collection stands out with its Known for its made-to-measure shirts and suits, casual, smart designs ideal for business life. Daily plus silk and cashmere neckties, the company 10am-10pm. www.giorgioarmani.com. İstinye Bayırı uses fabrics from famous brands such as Charles Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 518, Sarıyer. Clayton, Loro Piana, Valentino, Dormeuil, Vitale T: 0212 345 6110. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). Barberis Cononico, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Fratelli Italia De Delfino. www.corentte.com. Gucci Mim Kemal Öke Cad. İkizler Apt. 14/3, Nişantaşı. Italian fashion brand with shoes, handbags, T: 0212 247 0445. Off map. luggage, leather goods, furs, a ready-to-wear collection and much more. Daily 10am-7:30pm. Damat/Tween www.gucci.com. Maçka Cad. Maçka Palas 33/C, The Damat Collection’s main fabric line consists Teşvikiye. T: 0212 225 2080. A6. of specially woven, environmentally friendly, wool and wool blend Bio-Tech fabrics that are both H&M sophisticated and eye-catching. Daily 10am-10pm. Operating in cities around the world since 1947, www.damat.com.tr. Valikonağı Cad. 63, Nişantaşı. H&M offers fashionable, quality products for men, Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Beşiktaş. Bookstores T: 0212 343 8550-51. A6. women and children at attractive prices, and also T: 0212 444 9496. Off map. D&R stocks attractive local textiles. Daily 10am-10pm. Ermenegildo Zegna İstinyePark Shopping Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. 73, Offers a broad selection of books, music, films, The brand offers two distinct lines inc Zegna Sport Sarıyer. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). ANTIQUES AND electronics, games, gifts and stationary in a and Z Zegna. Particularly the environmentally COLLECTIBLES modern and relaxed atmosphere, with 45 stores friendly Oasi Zegna Cashmere jumpers in basic Massimo Dutti throughout İstanbul. Check website for the nearest colours appeal to both sight and touch. The perennial choice of people unwilling to Horhor Antique Centre store. Daily 10am-10pm. www.dr.com.tr. www.zegna.com. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm. compromise on their appearance in a busy This seven-storey building is famous with local Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre K:1, Abdi İpekçi Cad. 46/A, Nişantaşı. and fast-paced business life. Daily 10am-10pm. antique collectors, and each object here has a 179, Levent. T: 0212 353 0870. T: 0212 241 6500. A6. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre story, from armour worn by an English knight in Shopping Centre Map (p.32). 211/310, Etiler.T: 0212 282 0939. Hugo Boss his last battle, to the massive armchair of a French Shopping Centre Map (p.32). aristocrat. Daily 10am-6pm. www.horhor.com. Bringing together modern accessories and casual and sporty lines, Hugo Boss offers endless choices Mavi Kırk Sok. 24, Horhor, Aksaray. E2. Carpets Agora Halı inc ready-wear, watches, accessories, lingerie, Appealing to a vast range of tastes in jeans and Khaftan Art & Antique bodycare products and more, under lines including casual clothing, this world-renowned Turkish brand This amazing store’s 18,000-piece private A delightful venue hosting a collection of fine its Boss Black, Boss Orange, Boss Green and Boss also offers exclusive concept products for special collection includes regional carpets such as Old antiques and works by modern Turkish artists. Selection. Daily 10am-10pm. occasions. Daily 10am-10pm. Kazak, Konya, Sivas, Bergama and Uşak, plus the Khaftan’s vast array includes Ottoman era textiles, www.hugoboss.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. www.mavi.com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez exciting Contemporary Art collection. ceramics, silverworks, oriental paintings, books, İstinyePark Shopping Centre 339/468, Sarıyer. Shopping Centre 235/238, Etiler. www.agorarug.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. engravings and maps collected both in Turkey T: 0212 345 6001. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). T: 0212 282 0423-24. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). Türbedar Sok. 9, Cağaloğlu. T: 0212 528 7441. E4. and abroad. Also available are oil paintings by La Misura Naracamicie contemporary Turkish artists, miniature paintings Loomart A leader in custom tailoring, La Misura designs a Italian luxury shirt designer and manufacturer and calligraphic art. Daily 9am-8pm. When it comes to aesthetics, LoomArt is wide range of made-to-measure suits, tuxedos, Naracamicie presents four collections under the www.khaftan.com. Sultanahmet, Şifa Hamamı Sok. committed to the best in carpet design. Its coats, shoes, accessories and more. Flash and Base labels. In addition to bold, unusual 16, T: 0212 458 5425. huge collection includes unusual antique pieces F5. www.lamisura.com.tr. Levent Cad. 54, 1. Levent. shirts and blouses, you’ll fine classic shirts, white from Kerman, Konya and Tabriz (Iran), funky T: 0212 283 0022. Off map. shirts and a host of original styles. Portakal Art And Culture House contemporary pieces with bold designs and bright Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm, Sun 12am-7pm. The Portakal Family has contributed to Turkish arts colours, and woven kilims. Some of its larger www.naracamicie.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. and culture for three generations, since early 20th creations as the Pera Palace Hotel, and residence Clothing – Bostan Sok. Ayda Apt. 11 / 1, Nişantaşı. century provide art consultancy services for private of the President of Turkey! Daily 8:30am-7:30pm. T: 0212 236 5600. A6. museums, institutions and special collections. www.loomart.com. On the boutiques floor of Men & Women Mon-Sat 9am-7:30pm. www.rportakal.com. The Ritz-Carlton. Gümüşsuyu, Askerocağı Cad. 9, Burberry Network Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 8, Nişantaşı. Elmadağ. T: 0212 252 5095. B6. Clothing for women, men, children and babies Network is a global brand inspired by the T: 0212 225 4637. A6. Nakkaş inc a winning mix of classic and funky raincoats, multicultural character of the 21st century, separates and accessories. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. introducing new trends for men and women. Sahaflar Çarşısı In İstanbul's old Sultanahmet district, there's a truly www.burberry.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 1, Nişantaşı. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.network-tr.com. The oldest market to have survived from Ottoman remarkable store: Nakkaş. Built over a beautifully T: 0212 241 5516. A6. Teşvikiye Cad. 103, Nişantaşı. times, it is located on Beyazıt Square in the restored 6-century Byzantine cistern, Nakkaş T: 0212 236 6579. A6. historical neighbourhood of Beyazıt, next to the offers fine wearings, ceramics and jewellery in the Dolce & Gabanna Grand Bazaar. A must-see for booklovers visiting tradition of quality crafts manship. A visit to this The creation of Italian designers Domenico Ralph Lauren the Grand Bazaar, with old and new Turkish and column-filled cistern is the first step to an exciting Dolce and Stefano Gabanna, this famous brand Athletic and inspiring garments, coats and jackets foreign books, as well as old banknotes, coins and shopping adventure. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. dazzles the eyes with its brilliant designs. The new give the feeling of an American holiday. Ralph stamps. Eminönü, Çadırcılar Cad. 103-203, www.nakkasrug.com. Nakilbent Sok. 13, collection makes heavy use of wool with black, gold Lauren offers unique choices for lovers of the Beyazıt. E4. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 516 5222. F4 / F5. and lamé designs. Daily 10am-10pm. classics with its Purple Label and Black Label lines

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celebrity clients. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Abdi İpekçi Salvatore Ferragamo Department Stores Vakko Cad. Nazen Apt. Maçka. T: 0212 368 6300. A6. Creativity and passion have been passed down This leading Turkish brand presents its own through generations in the Ferragamo family, and Beymen interpretation of today’s fashions in men’s and Dior with close attention to quality and detail, Salvatore Beymen Men is renowned for its eye for fine detail, women’s wear while remaining true to its superior Highly distinguished world brand with John Ferragamo has become known as the shoemaker special fabrics and quality. Beymen Women offers fabric and manifacturing quality. Daily 10am-10pm. Galliano’s haute couture, men’s-women’s for the stars. In addition to purses and shoes, the timeless garments with romantic, nostalgic and www.vakko.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, prêt-à-porter, home decoration, skin product and brand’s other lines of clothing have also had great feminine details that will never go out of fashion. Kanyon Shopping Centre 138, Levent. jewellery designs, Dior’s perfumes are also the success. Daily 10am-8pm. Leading international brands also available. T: 0212 353 1080. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). choice of top world personalities. Daily 10am- Abdi İpekçi Cad. Polat Palas, 63, Nişantaşı. www.beymen.com.tr. Nişantaşı, Mon-Sat 10am- 10pm. www.dior.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. T: 0212 241 6049. 8pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 23/1, Nişantaşı. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 478, Sarıyer. A6. T: 0212 3734800. A6. Zorlu Center, Daily 10am- Gift & Collectables T: 0212 345 5930. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). Stella McCartney 10pm. Zorlu Center, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3300. Assouline The daughter of former Beatles member Paul Escada Off map. With branches in Paris, New York, Las Vegas, Los McCartney, the British designer is known for Prestigious international fashion house offering Angeles and now İstanbul, Assouline stores offer her creations for famous personalities including Boyner luxury apparel, accessories and fragrance a selection of limited-edition book bags, book Madonna, Jude Law and Gwynneth Paltrow. Its men’s, women’s, children’s wear, active collections for daytime, weekends and evenings. stands, stationery, bookends and fine antiques. Daily 10am-10pm. www.stellamccartney.com. sportswear, footwear & accessories, cosmetics and Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.escada.com. Abdi İpekçi Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 12am-6pm. Cevdet Paşa Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. housewares departments offer a vast selection of Cad. 25/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 247 8483. A6. Cad. 25/A, Bebek. T: 0212 287 5534. Off map. T: 0212 306 3396. Off map. local and international brands. Daily 10am-10pm. Fendi İstinyePark Shopping Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. Cashmere House Italian brand has launched a new boutique which V2K Designers Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 5070. Cashmere House is the place to look for exquisite will house handbags, shoes, small leather goods, Prestigious Turkish couture offering elegance and Shopping Centre Map (p.32). Bağdat Cad. 360, latest styles of cashmere shawls from Nepal and watches, jewellery. Daily 10am-10pm. a modern style. Carries many famous hip brands Suadiye. T: 0216 385 1409. Off map. Kashmir, as well as real silk shawls produced in the Zorlu Center, Koru Sok. 2, 180, Beşiktaş. under its collection. Mon-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm. Turkish cities of Bursa and Denizli in a wide variety Harvey NicholS T: 0212 999 9810. www.v2kdesigners.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 31/1, of colours and styles. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. Off map. Kanyon Shopping Centre is the home of this Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 9498. A6. www.cashmerehouse.com.tr. Keseciler Cad. Louis Vuitton ultimate luxury designer destination. Spread over 49-51, Grand Bazaar, Beyazıt, Fatih. E4. Ready-to-wear dresses as well as bags and Valentino 3 floors, it offers over 300 of world’s top designer accessories from the famous monogrammed The Italian fashion designer’s elegant shops offer labels in ladies’, men’s and children’s wear, Fırça Ceramics leather by Marc Jacobs. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. haute couture designs dominated by red and cosmetics, fashion, and home accessories, also This is Turkey’s first handicraft centre to produce www.louisvuitton.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 23, black, collectors’ pieces, women’s accessories and including premium brands. Daily 10am-10pm. hand-made ceramics with lead-free glaze and Nişantaşı. T: 0212 246 6975. A6. glasses. Daily 10am-10pm. www.valentino.com. www.harveynichols.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, a high percentages of quartz, equal to original Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. Kanyon Shopping Centre, Levent. İznik quality. You can also enjoy a fascinating Max&Co. T: 0212 306 3392. Off map. T: 0212 319 1155. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). demonstration of traditional pottery making Collection representing a modern, feminine, seductive and distinctive style. Daily 10am-10pm. www.maxandco.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 492, İstinye. T: 0212 345 5731. Shopping Centre Map (p.32).

Max Mara and more casual selections with Polo Ralph Lauren. inc Balmain, Alexander Wang, Versace, Diane Von Max Mara covers all the bases for lovers of classic Daily 10am-10pm. www.ralphlauren.com. İstinye Furstenberg, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Salvatore Ferragamo, styles, providing a casual look for women of all Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 58, Sarıyer. Tom Ford, MCQ, Catherine Malandrino, Ashish, ages. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.maxmara.com. T: 0212 345 7012. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). Emilio Pucci, Thomas Wylde, Paul & Joe, See Teşvikiye Cad. 7, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 259 6550. A6. by Chloe, Vivienne Westwood Anglomania Tom Ford and Helmut Lang, as well as broad selection of Miu Miu One of the world’s most prestigious brands, famed Designed as an independent brand by Prada, Miu for its outlandish, unique styles, this store presents cosmetics. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 12pm-8pm. Miu’s trendy footwear and dresses appeal to the one of the designer’s most astounding collections www.demsagroup.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. child in you. Daily 10am-10pm. ww.miumiu.com. in a contemporary atmosphere. Mon-Sat 10am- Polat Palas 63, Maçka. T: 0212 241 6049. A6. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 58, 8pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad 46/B, Nişantaşı. BCBG Max Azria Sarıyer. T: 0212 329 8158. T: 0212 296 7575. A6. The choice of many Hollywood celebrities like Shopping Centre Map (p.32). Zara Paris Hilton, Carmen Electra, Eva Mendes and Perspective Spanish brand offering men’s, women’s and Sharon Stone, Max Azria caters to women who Modern collections featuring elegant but children’s clothing. Some of its stores, inc Zara prefer a modern style. Extensive product offers comfortable work, casual and evening wear design Home, feature home furnishings and accessories. casual wear to evening dresses, shoes and for women with over 100 stores in 41 countries. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. www.zara.com. Metro City handbags. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 12pm-7pm. Shopping Centre G, 1. Levent. T: 0212 344 00 44. www.bcbgmaxazriagroup.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. www.perspective.com.tr. Rumeli Cad. 2/1, A, Shopping Centre Map (p.32). Bostan Sok. 4, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 241 2242. A6. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 3355. A6. Bottega Veneta Prada Clothing - Women Comfortable, quality footwear and handbag Considering fashion, luxury and style a mission that designs offering elegance and luxury. Barbara Bui goes beyond the mere production of clothes, bags, Reflecting the energy and strength of the urban Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. www.bottegaveneta.com. and shoes, this famous Italian brand leads the woman, Barbara Bui has represented sophisticated İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre world in fashion and style. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Parisian style for 27 years. This season’s collection 463, Sarıyer.T: 0212 335 6790. www.prada.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 34, Nişantaşı. embodies a powerful rock spirit, and sculptural Shopping Centre Map (p.32). T: 0212 368 8450. A6. designs. Mon-Thu 10am-8pm. Fri & Sat 10am- Chanel Saint Laurent 8.30pm. Sun noon-8pm. St. Regis İstanbul, World-renowned French brand Chanel offers Known For His Designs Aimed At Daring, Feminine Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 35-1, Nişantaşı. a wide range of products from ready-wear to Women, The French Designer’s Shops Offer A T: 0212 230 3752. A6. accessories, beauty products and watches. Chanel Range Of Bold Pieces. Daily 10am-10pm. Brandroom counts Nicole Kidman, Victoria Beckham, Lily Allen, www.ysl.com. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Offers apparel for all occasions by select brands Catherine Denevue and Audrey Tautou among its Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3390. Off map.

36 WHERE İstanbul I AUGUST 2014 august 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 37 with a kick wheel. Sultanahmet, Daily 9am-7pm. in many colours and styles. Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm. Cankurtaran, Alemdar Cad. 2/A, Sultanahmet. Kapalıçarşı, Koltuk Kazancılar Sok. 27, Eminönü. T: 0212 511 9300. Kariye, Daily (closed Wed) T: 0212 528 69 72. E4. 9am-6pm. Derviş Ali Mah. Kariye Camii Sok. 4 Edirnekapı. T: 0212 534 4916. C1/2. Homewares Gali Collection, The This home and marine collection features Armaggan nature-inspired forms alongside contemporary Venue offering its exclusive products that hand-crafted silver jewellery. View the fine silver reinterpret the inspiration of Anatolia through collection, and Gali-designed slippers to ward off modern designs created in its own workshops. The the evil eye. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm. limited editions include jewellery and home textiles www.thegalicollection.com. Kültür Mah. collections as well as custom clothing produced Küçük Çamlık Sitesi, Esra Sok. E Blok 2H D2, Etiler. using natural dyes—all exhibited in its seven-storey building. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. T: 0212 234 0138. A6. www.armaggan.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Bostan Sok. Godiva 8, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 6292. A6. For a wonderful romantic moment or a surprise This exclusive store's new Nuruosmaniye outlet treat, this world-famous Belgian chocolatier is the presents a wide variety of specially designed sweetest choice. Creating the finest chocolates objects, such as jewellery, naturally-dyed textiles, since 1926, Godiva’s tradition and legendary carpets, leather goods, textiles and fine dining, all flavour await you. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm, Sun 12am- under one roof. Not only that, but it is also home 6pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Ünsal Apt. 6-4, B, Nişantaşı. to Nar Gourmet, Nar Restaurant, Nar Café, the T: 0212 246 4186. A6. Culinary Arts Center (YESAM), the Armaggan Art Gallery and Bora Travel. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Hiref www.armaggan.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 65, Reflecting Anatolian art and culture in the world Beyazıt. T: 0212 522 4433. of contemporary Turkish design, Hiref has now E4. added its new Bakır, Beykoz and Abdan collections Beymen Home to its offerings. Daily 10am-10pm. www.hiref.com. Leading world brands in everything from tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre decoration to home textiles, lighting to table 50-51, Levent. T: 0212 353 5450. design as well as one-of-a-kind products by Shopping Centre Map (p.32). world-renowned designers. Objects created of fine materials such as crystal, brass and bronze. Daily Lokum İstanbul Creating unique and original designs on İstanbul’s 10am-10pm. www.beymen.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. European side since 2005, Lokum İstanbul features Akmerkez Shopping Centre, Etiler. , cologne, candles, confections, T: 0212 316 6900. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). cards and very special fabrics. Daily 9am-8pm. Chakra www.lokumistanbul.com. Kuruçeşme Cad. 15, Towels and bathrobes from bamboo fibre that Kuruçeşme, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 287 1528. Off map. softens when washed, in a variety of colours and Lotus İznik Ceramic patterns. Cosmetics specially produced for Chakra Lotus Iznik Ceramics offers the best quality, in Paris under the brand Chakra SPA Collection handmade and handpainted, world famous Turkish also available. Drop by for an alternative look at Ceramics and Tiles. They carefully select the finest houseware. Daily 10am-10pm. www.chakra.com.tr. examples of traditional and modern İznik and Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre B2, Kütahya ceramic designs. Each art piece is custom Levent. T: 0212 353 0757. ordered to outstanding local artists, who sign every Shopping Centre Map (p.32). one of their achievements. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. Dantell Nakilbent Sok. 13, Sultanahmet. A wonderful new place for fine bed linens, T: 0212 516 5222. F4. tablecloths, towels, pillows, napkins and bathrobes, Moser including the Dreamy Whites, Everyday Glamour, Find some of Europe’s best crystal, porcelain Spring Garden, Ecclechic and signed Tuvana and silver here, boasting some of the world’s top Büyükçınar’s Tuvanam For Dantell collections. celebrity names as its fans. The collections include Special exclusive design accessories also available. Kosta Boda, Meissen, Orrefors, Georg Jensen, Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.dantell.com. Haviland, Daum and Lalique. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Teşvikiye Mah. Şakayık Sok. 56/17 Nişantaşı. www.moserturkey.com. Ebulula Cad. 47, 1.Levent. T: 0212 224 0867. A6. T: 0212 280 30 24. Off map. Haremlique Paşabahçe Boutique Company offering own production of luxury The right address for delightful premium linens and towels as well as fine silks, cashmeres, glassware, with special collections such as upholstery and home accessories for the finest Ottoman, Enamel Glass, Calligraphy on Glass, homes, yachts and boutique hotels. Mon-Sat 10am- Mosaic, Ashura, Boutique Glass and others, 7pm. www.haremlique.com. Zorlu Center Koru Sok. as well as crystal, porcelain/ceramics, and 2/194, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 3843. Off map. accessories. Daily 10am-10pm. İznik Works www.pasabahcemagazalari.com. Büyükdere Cad. A homely store in the heart of the Grand Bazaar, Silver & Genuine Rough Stone Jewellery 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre G 141, Levent. İznik Works offers the centuries-old glory of Turkish T: 0212 353 0730. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). tile and pottery making. The finest examples of Koltuk Kazazlar Sok. No:27 Kapalıçarşı (Grandbazaar), İstanbul Tash Corner İznik tiles in blue, green and white embellish the Tel: +90212 528 69 72 GSM: +90532 412 32 21 A warm, welcoming shop offering handmade store. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.iznikworks.com. designs, from silver and semiprecious stones, Grand Bazaar, Takkeciler Sok. 82-84, Eminönü. e.mail: [email protected] plus imported earrings, necklaces and bracelets T: 0212 522 4242. F5.

38 WHERE İstanbul I AUGUST 2014 AUGUST 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 39 SHOPPING

Yazzma quality gold, platinum and semi-precious stores, This shop selling shawls, scarves, kaftans, slippers the jewellery collection features the utmost in Turkish Delicacies and pillows in a riot of colours has something to craftsmanship and quailty. Daily 9am-6pm. Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir suite any taste. The authentic products fit not only www.tiarajewellery.com. Yavuz Sinan Mah. An international brand with an extensive exports classic decor, but modern homes as well. Ragıp Gümüş Pala Cad. 69, Unkapanı. network spanning the world from Japan to New Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm. www.yazzma.com. T: 0212 526 6363. F5. Zealand, the Middle East, Latvia, the United Kapalıçarşı, Takkeciler Sok. 58-60, Eminönü. Tiffany & Co. Kingdom and the United States, it offers Turkish T: 0212 524 6841. E4. Renowned for its rare and magnificent diamonds, delight or lokum,hard candies, pastes, halvahs Tiffany & Co. has for decades been the world’s and dragees. Daily 8am-8pm. İstiklal Cad. 83/A, Jewellery premier jeweller and America’s finest house of Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 2804. C5. design. Tiffany style is defined by groundbreaking Assos Diamond Bebek Badem Ezmesi designers and glamorous collections. This store is filled with elegant and out-of-the- Sweet shop famous for its and Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.tiffany.com. ordinary designs, with distinct wedding, gold, pastes. Products are always fresh and made from Abdi İpekçi Cad. Atiye Sok. 9/B, Teşvikiye. silver, precious stone and diamond collections top-quality ingredients. Daily 9:30am-8pm. Cevdet T: 0212 219 8346. A6. which offer something to suit every taste. Paşa Cad. 53/C, Bebek. T: 0212 263 5984. Off map. Mon-Sat 8.30am-6pm. www.assosdiamond.com. Urart Cemilzade 1883 Molla Feneri Mah. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 60, This jeweller in bustling Nişantaşı stands out Many traditional Turkish delight varieties as well Eminönü. T: 0212 528 3500. E4. with its unique, modern designs that draw upon as its exclusive fruit Turkish delights, hard candies and interpret the very special works of Anatolian Bvlgari and nut pastes, each as sweet as the next, but light civilisations and cultures. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Leading name in Italian-style jewellery and as well. Mon-Sat 10am-8:30pm, Sun 11am-7pm. www.urart.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 18/1, Nişantaşı. precious fashion pieces since 1884. Mon-Sat 10am- Nispetiye Cad. 104/B Etiler. T: 0212 257 2865. T: 0212 246 7194. A6. 9pm. Bayıldım Cad. 2, Swissôtel the Bosphorus, Off map. Maçka. T: 0212 259 0227. B7. Faruk Güllüoğlu Cartier Boutique Leather & Fur Popular both in Turkey and around the world, Watches, wedding and engagement rings, Desa Güllüoğlü in Karaköy has served traditional Turkish diamond jewellery and other luxury items are Established in 1972, this brand now operates with and other sweets for two centuries with the available from this leading French brand. Mon-Sat 73 stores in Turkey and 2 abroad. In addition to same meticulous care at every stage in the process. 10:30am-7pm. www.cartierboutique.com. Abdi leather products, it also produces silk, chiffon, Mon-Sat 7am-7pm. www.gulluoglu.com.tr. İpekçi Cad. 20, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 1317. A6. cashmere and knitwear skirts, jackets, trousers, Rıhtım Cad. Katlı Otopark Altı 3-4, Karaköy. coats and accessories. Daily 10am-10pm. T: 0212 293 0910. D5. Damas www.desa.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 1, Nişantaşı. Since its founding, this brand has followed the Koska Helvacısı T: 0212 232 1290. Bağdat Cad. 443/A, Suadiye. trends and innovations in the world of jewellery and A6. Leading manufacturer and exporter of Turkish T: 0216 416 4368. Bağdat Cad. 244, timepieces, and successfully represented world- Off map. , a -based cofection popular over a Göztepe. T: 0216 369 8037. İstinyePark renowned brands. Mon-Sat 10am-6:30pm. Off map. vast region, as well as other traditional flavours inc Shopping Centre 398, Sarıyer. T: 0212 245 6739. www.damasjewellery.com.tr. Atiye Sok. 34, preserves, paste and molasses, Turkish Shopping Centre Map (p.32). Nişantaşı. T: 0212 240 5967. A6. delight and light products for diabetics. Available Derishow in all major food retailers. www.koska.com. Dora Establishment providing fine leather products and Being awarded the most innovative wedding Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi different designs for its customers since 1987. ring designer Dora is worldwide known in over The origins of coffee culture throughout the Daily 10am-10pm. www.derishow.com.tr. İstinye 40 countries for its customised wedding and world today can be traced back to . Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 507, engagement rings. Brand’s latest flagstore and For centuries, coffee was originally purchased as Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 5908. taking a glance at sought-after pieces handpicked green to be taken home, roasted in pans, Shopping Centre Map (p.32). by Colin Cowie, wedding&event planner to then ground in hand cranked mills or mortar and Hollywood celebrities including Oprah Winfrey, Kuzu Deri pestles. This long, tedious and exhausting process Jennifer Lopez, Nicole Kidman. Mon-Sat 10.30am- Keeping up with fashion with the finest leather and had to be undertaken every time to savour a cup of 8pm. Çırağan Cad. 27/1. Beşiktaş. fur goods since 1960, Kuzu Deri also has branches coffee. Daily 8am-7pm. www.mehmetefendi.com. T: 0212 236 7535. B8. in France, Sweden, Norway and Russia. Check out Rüstem Paşa, Hasırcılar Cad. Tahmis Sok. 66, their special new designs in their Zeytinburnu and Eminönü. T: 0212 511 4262-63. E4. Gasia Nuruosmaniye stores. www.kuzu.com.tr. Gasia is a manufacturer and wholesaler of design Bab-ı Ali Cad. 7/A Cağaloğlu. jewellery, specializing in 24 karat hand hammered T: 0212 513 5898. F5. Watches products. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.gasiajewelry.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 21/1, IWC Schaffhausen The famous luxury watch brand presents its Pilot’s Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 2715. A6. Shoes & Bags watch celebrating the history of aviation. Other Gilan Christian Louboutin notable models include Aquatimer Diver; the The number one name in haute couture jewellery in This season, timeless French designer Louboutin Da Vinci; Ingenieur, celebrating technology and Istanbul, Gilan brings the brilliance of the Ottoman, is renowned for his high-heeled, red-soled shoes. engineering; and the Portofino, created in honour The brand for stylish kids Roman and Byzantine eras back to life. The Summerissima is one of the many striking of 1930 Portuguese sailors. Mon-Sat10.30am- Daily 10am-10pm. www.gilan.com. shoes from the collection. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 6.30pm. www.iwc.com/turkey. Mim Kemal Öke Four Seasons Hotel İstanbul at the Bosphorus, 12am-8pm. www.christianlouboutin.com. Cad. Altın Sok 4/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 224 4604. A6. Tesvikiye Mah. Maçka Cad. Narmanlı Apt. No:24/B Nisantası, lstanbul Tel: 0212 236 36 49 Çırağan Cad. 28, Beşiktaş. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 22/A, Nişantaşı. Panerai T: 0212 258 2163. Off map. İstinyePark Shopping T: 0212 296 7870. A6. www.mikihouse.co.jp Opened in 1860 in the city of Florence as a watch- Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. 459, Sarıyer. [email protected] Deriden making workshop and a shop, Panerai has its T: 0212 345 5008. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). Local distributor of world-famous brands inc roots deep beneath the sea. Providing sensitive Please instagram/mikihouseistanbul Tiara DKNY, Timberland, Sebago, Kowalski, Calvin Klein, measuring instruments for the Italian Army, the ask your Tiara Jewellery offers a splendid collection Bikkembergs, Boticelli, Lion, Palladium, Logan, and company specialised in diving watches for special concierge of jewellery inspired by the artistic history of Buffalo. Daily 10am-10pm. operations of the Undersea Commandos.Mon-Sat for more Anatolian civilizations and the creativity of www.deriden.com.tr. Çırağan Cad. Vapur İskelesi 9am-6:30pm. www.panerai.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. details contemporary artists. Made of the highest Sok. 1, Ortaköy. T: 0212 261 7666. A9. Altın Sok. 2/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 5959. A6.

40 WHERE İstanbul I AUGUST 2014 DINING best of İstanbul dining

Park Fora Since 1996, Park Fora has been renowned as one of İstanbul’s most elegant restaurants, which you instantly feel on entering its waterfront terrace. In keeping with the exclusive ambience, it’s matched by a stellar Bosphorus view, amazing park setting and outstanding service. There’s a huge variety of beautifully presented seafood, such as stuffed anchovies and marinated sea bass, plus a brilliant selection of wines from around the world to raise the bar for restaurants throughout the city. Muallim Naci Cad. Cemil Topuzlu Parkı İçi 54/A, Ortaköy. T: 0212 265 5063. www.parkfora.com

Tapasuma Located in the Sumahan Hotel in Çengelköy on İstanbul’s Asian side, Tapasuma possesses a calming atmosphere, mainly thanks to its location overlooking the Bosphorus, plus its striking design with its attractive stone walls. In addition to seasonal fish, Tapasuma’s menu offers unusual Turkish and Mediterranean dishes and bite-size Turkish mezes. Some of its outstanding items include shank of Thracian lamb , and cooked on a . Boat service from Kuruçeşme is available. Kuleli Cad. 43, Çengelköy. T: 0216 401 1333. www.tapasuma.com

Ritim Galata Traditional Flavours, First Italy, Just a few steps from the entrance to Galata Tower, this café’s high ceilings and smart décor give it a distinct historical atmosphere, highlighted by the black- Now İstanbul and-white photographs decorating the walls. With its lively mood and delicious choice of snack foods, it’s the ideal spot for a break on your tour of Galata. Magical Flavours Chef Massimo Bottura hails from the three Michelin Galata Kulesi Sok. 3/D, Galata, Beyoğlu. Ristorante Italia di Massimo Bottura, featuring a menu created by starred Osteria Francescana T: 0212 292 4929. award-winning Italian chef Massimo Bottura, is part of Eataly restaurant, rated third among at Zorlu Center. the 50 Finest Restaurants in the World. Ristorante Italia is his djacent to Eataly İstanbul’s top-floor regional flavours from the Northern Alps to first restaurant outside Italy. shopping and restaurant section, the southern tip of Pantalleria, set it firmly ARistorante Italia di Massimo Bottura apart from other Italian restaurants. boasts its own terrace and an stunning bar Its dishes depart from classic recipes in com- adorned with fine art. Its fine-dining cooking pletely modern interpretations, presenting the NaN Şişhane techniques and ingredients, combining flavours of Italian cuisine in the most minimal, Just five minutes from the Galata Tower and bustling İstiklal Caddesi, the after- elegant way possible. Always brought in fresh work parties at NaN Şişhane’s Aperitivo Italiano are the perfect way to unwind; daily, Eataly’s ingredients ensure an unforgettable the wood-dominated, minimalist décor with brick walls and hanging lamps add dining experience. warmth to the mood. Offering Turkish and world cuisine, it’s a wonderful new From the Milanese dish osso buco served with hangout for the Şişhane crowd. risotto to the mozzarella in Carozza, the menu fea- Evliya Çelebi Mah. Meşrutiyet Cad. 102 A, Şişhane, Beyoğlu. tures the classic dishes of Italy. Specialities include T: 0212 243 0174. spaghetti cetarese and lingua con . Zorlu Center, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 336 6666. www.osteriafrancescana.it/ristoranteitalia

42 WHERE İstanbul I AUGUST 2014 ADVERTISEMENT DINING DINING

A big hit with noodle lovers, this restaurant offers a www.chocolatecafe.com. Eytam Cad. 33, Maçka. including the famous Viennese blend. The pleasant and entertaining dining ambiance. T: 0212 343 2461. A6. “Eiskaffee” with ice cream is a summer favorite. HHH Daily L & D. www.wagamama.com.tr. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.cafewien.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre, Mangerie Maçka Cad. Reasürans Çarşısı 62, Teşvikiye. Mangerie has been a top eating spot for Istanbul Levent. T: 0212 353 0474. T: 0212 233 7860. A6. and Bebek socialites. With its extensive menu and Shopping Centre Map (p.32). wine list to match, plus a commanding view of Fes Café Zuma Bebek Bay, it’s become an Istanbul classic. Try the Nestled in the Grand Bazaar, Fes Café with its Japanese dining traditions, alive and well in the lamb and hand-cut noodle , the skewered Ottoman -and- contemporary style interior, is an heart of İstanbul. Exciting interior is an extra shrimp and Mangerie burger. HH Daily B, L & D. ideal spot for a coffee break without having to attraction to this restaurant overlooking the www.mangeriebebek.com. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 69/3, leave the authentic atmosphere of the bazaar. Bosphorus. Japanese and world cuisines available Küçükbebek. T: 0212 263 5199. Off map. HH Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.fescafe.com. Halıcılar at sushi and grill bars. Booking required. Cad. 62, Kapalıçarşı. T: 0212 528 1613. E4. HHHH Daily L & D. www.zumarestaurant.com. Nişantaşı Brasserie With décor by Zeynep Fadıllıoğlu, Nişantaşı Limonata Apartment Salhane Sok. 7, Ortaköy. T: 0212 236 2296. A9. Brasserie is one of İstanbul’s most popular spots. Limonata is one of İstanbul’s most fashionable The menu offers classic dishes adapted for modern spots. Enjoy a delicious lunch or dinner, or choose brıtısh tastes, including French soup, duck’s liver, from an impressive selection of cocktails at the steak Tartare, and ‘Café de Paris’ filet mignon. unique Limonata bar. HHH Daily L & D. Bostan Sok. Tom’s Kitchen HHH Daily B, L & D. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Bostan Sok. 13, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 2300. A6. Tom’s kitchen serves comfort food favourites in a 23/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 343 0443. A6. relaxed and environment, from brakfast to dinner. Limonata Downtown Menu highlights include fish pie, steak tartare, Limonata is one of İstanbul’s most fashionable shepherd’s pie. HHH Daily B & L & D. CAFE spots. Enjoy a delicious lunch or dinner, or choose Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. from an impressive selection of cocktails at the A La Carte Restaurant HHH T: 0212 353 6677. Off map. unique Limonata bar. Daily L & D. Meals surrounded by magnificent Bosphorus Süleyman Seba Cad. 46, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. scenery and splendid historical buildings. T: 0212 236 5017. A6. bıstro HHHH Daily B, L & D. www.legacyottomanhotel. com. Legacy Ottoman Hotel, Hobyar Mah. Mavra Chocolate One of the most populated cafes of the Hamidiye Cad. 16, Eminönü. T: 0212 527 6767. E4. Offering an exquisite dining experience, this spot neighbourhood frequented by photographers, serves international cuisine, but predominantly Café Wien actors and designers. Mavra is a cozy little café Italian dishes adjusted to Turkish tastes. All European-style coffee and cakes made in house, offering classic but very tasty café fare, including a ingredients are natural, organic and fresh, offering a Viennese style café atmosphere. 26 variety of breakfast platters, sandwiches, indulge- prepared with special herbs. HHH Daily B, L & D. and 18 coffees and to choose from, worthy appetizers, salads, pastas, and meat-heavy

spacious interior decorated in classical Chinese food in a modern atmosphere. Featuring natural AEGEAN style. Specialties include crispy duck and stir-fried wood décor and a Zen garden, it offers a wide dishes. HHHH Daily L & D. www.hilton.com.tr. variety of Japanese dishes plus a sushi menu. HHH Eleos Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet Cad. Harbiye. Daily L&D. Mahzeytinoğlu Cad. Yaren Sok. 6/ 14-15, Spacious décor and unique flavours from both T: 0212 231 6200. Akatlar, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 352 0222. shores of the Aegean Sea. In addition to classic B6. Off map. flavours of İstanbul’s taverns, Eleos’ menu includes Hori P.F. Changs Greek and Armenian specialties as well as With its traditional Japanese menu, serene music This Chinese bistro is famed for its delicious food, Aegean wild greens. HHH Daily L & D. and lush green garden, Hori is everything you authentic décor and fine service, and the majestic www.eleosrestaurant.com. İstiklal Cad. 231, K:2, would want in a Japanese restaurant. The menu horses that greet its guests at the door. Exotic Hıdivval Palas, Beyoğlu, Tünel. includes sashimi, sushi and fried and steamed flavours in portions large enough to share are T: 0212 244 9090-91. C5. selections. HHH Daily L & D. www.hori.com.tr. accompanied by a good choice of wines, special Grand Hyatt Hotel, Harbiye Mah. Taşkışla Cad. 1, cocktails, sake and beer. HHH www.pfchangs.com. Lokanta Maya Şişli. T: 0212 230 9000. B6. tr. Nispetiye Cad. 94, Etiler. T: 0212 358 6060. A warm, simple restaurant with a menu focusing Off map. on Aegean and Mediterranean specialities, Maya Miyako uses only fresh seasonal ingredients. Some of the Award-winning restaurant offering three fine Asian Shang Palace favourites include chicken liver pate, marinated sea dining experiences: sushi bar, Teppanyaki cuisine Exciting classical and innovative Chinese dishes bass and fish croquettes. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. plus tatami room. The Japanese garden adds a are served alongside information on the cuisine. www.lokantamaya.com. Kemankeş Cad. 35 A, further Asian touch. Sake is served warm or cold to Favourites include Peking duck, filet mignon slices Karaköy. T: 0212 252 6884. D5. accompany the meal. HHHH Tue-Sun 7pm-11pm. D. marinated in Chinese wine, and ginger seafood. www.swissotel.com.tr. Bayıldım Cad. 2, Swissôtel HHHH Daily L & D. Sinanpaşa Mah. Hayrettin The Bosphorus, Maçka. İskelesi Sok. 1, Beşiktaş. ASIAN & Far EASTERN T: 0212 326 1100. B7. T: 0212 275 8888. B7.

Banyan Maromi Teppanyaki Alaturka The exquisite flavours of the Far East. Famous for The restaurant has been an Istanbul hit since the Asian and Turkish delicacies are prepared with its varieties from 20 countries. Menus day it opened, enhanced by a mystical atmosphere the traditional Japanese teppanayaki griddle include with Vietnamese-style vegetable with decor brought from Japan. Stars on the menu technique, and served in a dramatic fashion. chili sauce, Singapore-style and sushi. include tofu salad and calamari crepes, and for The interior is dominated by a wood décor ; VIP HHHH Daily L & D. www.banyanrestaurant.com. dessert, green tea ice cream. HHH Daily L & D. sections also available. HHH Daily L & D. Muallim Naci Cad. Salhane Sok. 3/2, Ortaköy. www.divan.com.tr. Divan İstanbul, Asker Ocağı www.teppanyakialaturka.com. Nispetiye Cad. 107, T: 0212 259 9060-70. Off map. Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 315 5500. B6. Etiler. T: 0212 287 8228. Off map.

Dragon Restaurant Miyabi Sushi Wagamama Delicious dishes by Hong Kong chefs served in a The elegant restaurant serves top-class Japanese Extensive menu offers distinctive asian flavours.

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mains. Daily B & L & D & N. Daily 9:30am-2am. caught local seafood and native Kıvırcık lamb. favourite items such as calamari yahni: -baked Poseidon highlights include octopus beğendi, hot wild HH Serdar-ı Ekrem Sok. 31/A, Galata. HHHH Daily D. Tomtom Suites, Boğazkesen Cad. Guidelines octopus with new potatoes, tender spinach and Seafood at its best against a magnificent view greens platter, sea bass wrapped in chard, and T: 0212 252 7488. D5. Tomtom Kaptan Sok.18, Beyoğlu. asparagus. HHH The Grand Tarabya, of İstanbul. Specialties include stuffed calamari, fried shrimp pastries. Daily L & D. This directory, grouped by category, is a T: 0212 292 4467. C5. Haydar Aliyev Cad. 154, Tarabya, Sarıyer. baked as well as Greek-style grilled octopus, www.revmabalik.com Arnavutköy, Bebek Cad. NaN Şişhane compendium of establishments recommended www.thegrandtarabya.com. cold meats, a variety of Turkish and foreign wines No:7, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 263 5060. Off map. NaN Şişhane’s Aperitivo Italiano are the perfect Nopa by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. T: 0212 363 3300. Off map. and a special şöbiyet (cream-filled baklava) from way to unwind; the wood-dominated, minimalist Among the cafés you’ll find this elegant restaurant Sur Balık Arnavutköy Gaziantep. HHHH Daily L & D. décor with brick walls and hanging lamps add with a long bar, vertical gardens on its walls, a Sur Balık is located in a simple 150-year-old MAP LOCATIONS Park Fora www.poseidonbebek.com. Küçük Bebek, Cevdet warmth to the mood. Offering Turkish and world glass ceiling and an exclusive cocktail menu. Note that the references at the end of each list- Popular restaurant offering delicious seafood and seaside mansion, with walls sporting old İstanbul Paşa Cad. 58, Bebek. T: 0212 287 9531. Off map. cuisine, it’s a wonderful new hangout. Recommended dishes include exotic seafood ing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to pages 70-71. high-quality service. Appetizers include salted photographs. Sea bass marinated with basil, www.nanşişhane.com Meşrutiyet Cad. 102 A, specialities, plus beef ribs roasted for 12 hours, and bonito, octopus salad, shrimp roquefort and grilled Revma Balık anglerfish ricado and with tahini are Şişhane, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 0174. lamb shank menu for two. HHHH Daily L, D & N. C5. GENERAL information calamari. Fishcakes and -baked fish highly Located in the beautiful Bosphorus quarter of just a few of the highly-recommended treats. Atiye Sok. 6, Nişantaşı. T:0212 327 5868. Reservations for most restaurants are strongly HHH Ritim Galata A6. recommended. HHHH Daily L & D. Arnavutköy, and boasting an impressive view, Daily L & D. www.surbalikarnavutkoy.com. advised. Check when booking that the restau- Bebek Arnavutköy Cad. 52, Arnavutköy. This café’s high ceilings and smart décor give it a Pancaldi rant will accept your credit card. Value Added www.parkfora.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. Cemil Revma Balık serves original house mezes and fish T: 0212 257 2743-44. Off map. distinct historical atmosphere with its lively mood In keeping with Turkish hospitality and Ramada Tax (VAT) is automatically included in the bill, Topuzlu Parkı 54-A, Ortaköy. T: 0212 265 5063. A9. dishes in a welcome, homely atmosphere. Menu and delicious choice of snack foods, it’s the ideal Worldwide’s superior standards of quality and but tips are generally not added. A 10% cash Tapasuma gratuity is common. spot for a break on your tour of Galata. Galata service, Pancaldi Restaurant offers delicious Tapasuma serves traditional Turkish treats in hot Kulesi Sok. 3/D, Galata, Beyoğlu. selections from local and international cuisines. and cold tapas form, along with fresh fish from PLEASE NOTE: ALL RESTAURANTS & T: 0212 292 4929. HHH the Bosphorus and a range of mezes. Enjoy the C5. Daily B, L & D. BARS ARE NON-SMOKING. www.ramadaplazaistanbul.com. panoramic views on the shores of the Bosphorus Halaskargazi Cad. 63, Ramada Plaza, Osmanbey. index to abbreviations – there’s also a boat service available from HHH CAFE, restaurant& BAR T: 0212 315 4444. A6. B: Open for breakfast L & D: Open lunch & Kuruçeşme. Daily L & D. www.tapasuma.com. dinner only. Kuleli Cad. 43, Çengelköy. T: 0216 401 1333. Ada Bosphorus Off map. It is an ideal place to relax while sampling PRICES delicious dishes while enjoying a stunning view FISH & SEAFOOD Prices per person for three courses and coffee, Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçı of the Bosphorus. The space is open and airy and no alcohol. This historical fish restaurant offers fresh fish every Akıntıburnu breakfast on the terrace overlooking the water is a H – TL 0-30 per person weekday between 12pm and 4pm. Fish is displayed This lovely restaurant in Arnavutköy offers a HH special treat. HH Daily B&L&D. – TL 30-60 per person at the entrance; select your fish and wait for it to be glorious Bosphorus view, freshly-caught fish and HHH – TL 60-90 per person www.adakitapcafe.com. Muallim Naci Cad. prepared by expert chefs. HHH Daily L & D. seafood, and mezes prepared daily. The mackerel HHHH – over TL 90 per person Öksüz Çocuk Sok. 1, Kuruçeşme. www.tarihikarakoybalikcisi.com. Tersane Cad. with , baked shellfish and T: 0212 263 9003. Off map. Kardeşim Sok. 45, Karaköy. T: 0212 251 1371. D4. are some of the favourites. HHH Daily L & D. Chapelle 1. Bebek Cad. 115, Akıntıburnu, Arnavutköy. the quality of its fish and its Bosphorus view. This stylish venue’s delicious charcuterie plate T: 0212 263 4829. Off map. Established as a Greek coffeehouse in the early french and rich choice of wines are reminiscent of a Arnavutköy Balıkçısı 1800s, it became a Greek tavern before assuming Parisian brasserie. Chapelle’s decor is a fascinating Brass A cozy restaurant with simple, unpretentious its current form in 1950. Specialties include grilled Combining two types of contrasting cuisine in combination of mystic, modern and classic, with calamari in soy sauce, shrimp in vine leaves, turbot, decor complemented by nostalgic photos of the luxurious simplicity, the menu at Brass offers a spacious garden. HHH Daily L & D. Rixos Pera, sea bream, haddock and gurnard. HHH Daily L & D. Arnavutköy waterfront. The menu includes cold such treats as bouillabaisse and filet mignon with Meşrutiyet Cad. 44, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu. www.cengelkoyiskelerestaurant.com. mezes like mackerel with soy sauce, salt-cured béarnaise sauce, miso soup, tofu and tuna tataki T: 0212 377 7000. C4. Çengelköy İskele Gazinosu Sok. 4, Çengelköy. and sea bass salad, and hot appetizers like sauteed salad, and a selection of Asian desserts. T: 0216 321 5506. The House Café monkfish, fried calamari and fish croquettes. Off map. Guests can also enjoy live jazz performances HHHH Daily L & D. www.arnavutkoybalikcisi.com. The House Cafe was established in 2002 at an Eftalya (Fri&Sat). HHH Daily 11am-11pm. 1. Cadde 4, Arnavutköy. T: 0212 257 0525. apartment building in Teşvikiye. In a short period of Off map. With a maritime-themed interior complete with www.martiistanbulhotel.com. Abdülhak Hamit Cad. time, the cafe became a success with its seasonal 25/B, Taksim. T: 0212 987 4020. Balıkçı Sabahattin mermaid reliefs, choose your fish and enjoy C5. and fresh ingredients providing food, wide range Extensive fish menu and excellent service, appetizers with marvellous Bosphorus views. of beverages and cosy environment. La Brise Brasserie located in the historical area of Cankurtaran, Be sure to try the and onion salad, fried www.thehousecafe.com. A brasserie with an Art Nouveau décor, La Brise near Sultanahmet. The skillfully prepared fish calamari and seasonal fish varieties. HHH Daily L The House Cafe Ortaköy, Salhane Sok. 1, Ortaköy, offers always seasonal cooking and a great is especially good with rakı, and the & D. www.eftalya.net. Arnavutköy Mah. 1. Cad. 32, T: 0212 227 2699. Off map. selection of drinks. Unmissable dishes include pilaf and courgette with yoghurt come highly Arnavutköy. T: 0212 287 2520. Off map.Suadiye, The House Cafe Teşvikiye, Atiye Sok. 10-11, steak tartare, duck confit and Chateaubriand. recommended. HHH Daily L & D. Kazım Özalp Sok. 60, Suadiye. Teşvikiye. T: 0212 259 2377. HHH Daily L & D. www.brasserielabrise.com. A6. T: 0216 350 0152. www.balikcisabahattin.com. Şehit Hasan Kuyu Sok. Off map. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 11A, Nişantaşı. 1, Cankurtaran, Fatih. T: 0212 458 1824. F5. contemporary Galatalı Balık T: 0212 244 4846. A6. Bebek Balıkçı Galatalı Balık serves Cunda cuisine (from Turkey’s La Petite Maison northwest coast) including Aegean wild greens, European This restaurant located in the upmarket With a menu that takes you to the French neighbourhood of Bebek on the Bosphorus serves calamari with almond tarator and mackerel with Riviera, this restaurant with high ceilings and Circle Brasserie a full array of seafood, with specialities including . It also boasts incomparable views of the a formal garden is pure French. The cuisine Located in the Mualla Hanım Mansion, Circle grilled and pan-fried fish, and fish cooked in paper. Prince’s Islands. HHHH www.galatalibalik.com. focuses especially on the dishes of Nice and the Brasserie offers casual fine dining in a romantic HHHH Daily L & D. www.bebekbalikci.net. Plaj Yolu Sok Suadiye Park, A Blok 18, Kadıköy. Mediterranean; the grilled lamb sautéed in herbs is atmosphere, directly on the sparkling waters of the Cevdet Paşa Cad. 26/A, Bebek. T: 0216 410 3959-69. Off map. Bosphorus. The menu offers a tempting variety, one of the stars of the menu. Daily L & D. T: 0212 263 3447. Off map. from asparagus risotto to lamb shanks, octopus Kıyı www.lpmistanbul.com.tr Maçka Palas, Maçka Cad. marinated in wine sauce and delicious . Chef Mezze A unique fish restaurant on the Bosphorus with 33/B, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 0232. A6. HHHHDaily B, L & D. www.circle.com.tr. Köybaşı Located actually in the Bosphorus, this restaurant wood-paneled décor and photographs and Mama Shelter Cad. Daire Sok. Mualla Hanım Yalısı, 5/A,Yeniköy. offers fresh seafood plus Middle Eastern, paintings by Turkish artists that give an intimate Designed by Philippe Starck and offering delicious T: 0212 262 8455. Mediterranean and Aegean mezes. Shrimp risotto club feel. Try the delicious seafood and liver dishes. Off map. creations by French chef Jérôme Banctel, Mama and linguini with lobster are two of the most- HHH Daily L & D. www.kiyi.com.tr. Haydar Aliyev Nicole Shelter’s wood turn out a tempting array of ordered specialties. Daily L & D. HHHH Cad. 186, Tarabya. T: 0212 262 0002. Off map. pide and pizzas. Other dishes include a variety of Nicole occupies an elegant terrace with a view www.chefmezze.com. Sortie, Muallim Naci Cad. 54, of the Historic Peninsula, the Prince’s Islands and Limani meat dishes including beef tartare with sesame Kuruçeşme. T: 0530 067 5040. Off map. beyond. The chefs create new interpretations The restaurant is a simple, comfortable restaurant and soy sauce. HHH Daily B & L & D. of classic flavours, with fresh vegetables from Çengelköy İskele Restaurant right on the shores of the Bosphorus. It specialises www.mamasehelter.com. İstiklal Cad. Atıf Yılmaz Feriköy’s organic market, focusing on freshly- Best fish restaurant on the Asian side, both for in fresh seasonal fish with traditional sauces, plus Sok. 50-54, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 0100. D5.

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world. In addition, it also serves its special coffee backdrop of white sailboats riding at anchor. care and love. HHH Daily L & D. INTERNATIONAL and cocktails day and night. HHH Daily B, L & D. HH Mon-Fri B, L & D; Fri & Sat B, L, D & N. www.cinarhotel.com.tr. Çınar Hotel Fener Mevkii, 360 İstanbul Restaurant&Bar www.thesofahotel.com. The Sofa Hotel, Teşvikiye www.divan.com.tr. Amiral Fahri Korutürk Yat Limanı, Yeşilköy. T: 0212 663 2900. Off map. Commanding a full panoramic view of İstanbul Cad. 41-41 A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 368 1818. A6. Kalamış. T: 0216 414 5703. Off map. Laledan including Hagia Sophia and the Sea of Marmara. Cantinery Galata Kiva Boasting an open buffet breakfast with over 250 DJ and live performances combined with great This restaurant, featuring decor by American One of the most notable products of the items with 80% organic ingredients, and Arab, cuisine, and contemporary interior at the top of designers Roman & Willams, offers a wide range of multicultural Ottoman civilization is its cuisine. Kiva Asian and sushi corner between 6.30am and 11am. a 19th- century building. Try the Zen soup for innovative dishes including lobster burger, shrimp offers the perfect opportunity to rediscover the Legendary Çırağan Brunch on Sundays from 12pm- starters, then choose from mains like filet mignon carpaccio, codfish gyoza and . secret flavours of Anatolia. Also with a branch on 4pm. Laledan Restaurant serves an all-day dining with chili and bitter chocolate, or lamb confite, and The fresh Italian-style baked daily are the Asian side. HHH Daily B, L & D. Galata Tower menu, with delicious comfort food and regional top it off with the “death by chocolate” dessert. especially delicious. Daily B, L & D. Zorlu Center, Meydanı, Şahkulu, Şah Kapısı Sok. 4, Beyoğlu. specialties. HHHH www.kempinski.com. Çırağan HHHH Daily L & D. www.360istanbul.com. Zincirlikuyu. T: 0212 353 6365. Off map. T: 0212 292 98 98. C5. Palace Kempinski İstanbul, Çırağan Cad. 32, İstiklal Cad. Mısır Apt. 163, K:8, Beyoğlu. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 7333. B8. T: 0212 251 1042. C5. Cipriani Hardal Nişantaşı This international restaurant chain is, famous for A comfortable and colourful venue designed La Torre Agatha Restaurant its unique approach to world dining. The interior around the concept of “Eat, Play, Drink”, this Exclusive Located in Le Méridien İstanbul Etiler, The main restaurant of the recently-reopened Pera is striking with its and earth-toned interior funky eaterie is dominated by orange and yellow featuring creative takes on Mediterranean and Palace Hotel, Agatha combines French, Italian and and low tables, and the menu offers all the classic décor and graffiti on the walls. Specialties include Turkish cuisine by award-winning chefs. Try the Turkish flavours – all on the route of Orient Express flavours of Harry’s Bar in Venice. HHH Daily L & D. hot wings, steak fajitas, and sirloin with café de stuffed köfte with cheek of beef, and the crab – and presents them in a stylish atmosphere. www.cipriani.com. Edition Hotel, Levent Mah. Paris sauce. HH Daily B, L & D. www.hardal.com.tr. tartare appetizer. HHH Daily L & D. Very good wine list. HHH Daily B, L&D. Büyükdere Cad. 2/1, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 317 7787. Teşvikiye Mah. Atiye Sok. 7, Nişantaşı. www.latorre-restaurant.com.tr. Le Meridien Pera Palace Hotel, Meşrutiyet Cad. 52, Tepebaşı, Off map. T: 0212 219 7323. A5. İstanbul Etiler, Cengiz Topel Cad. 39, Etiler. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 377 4000. C4. T: 0212 3840000. Off map. City Lights Huqqa Antiochia Commanding a breathtaking Bosphorus view from This world cuisine restaurant overlooking the Masa This restaurant is the only place in Beyoğlu where the roof of the Taksim Ceylan Intercontinental Bosphorus is dominated by lively décor featuring Dishes include salmon sashimi, bresaola followed you can find a genuine Antakya-style dürüm, Hotel, City Lights adds live music, delicious food, pastels and geometric designs. The menu includes by grilled meat, poultry and fish courses, as well as flavored with peppers and allspice and wrapped in fine wines and a great selection of cocktails. If it’s both regional Turkish and Italian dishes; the pizza and pide from a wood oven. The chocolate thin bread. The menu also includes Syrian, an exclusive evening you’re after, look no further. Funghi Carnaval and Oreo Dream Cheesecake are souffle is well worth the calories. Frequented by Lebanese, French and Ottoman specialities such HHHH istanbul.intercontinental.com.tr. well worth a try. No alcohol. HHH www.huqqa.com. celebrities. HHH Daily L & D. as locally spiced grilled meats, and mezes of olives Intercontinental İstanbul, Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, Muallim Naci Cad. 56, Kuruçeşme. www.masainternational.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. HH with zahter and hummus. Mon-Sat L & D. Taksim. T: 0212 368 4444. B6. T: 0212 265 0666. Off map. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 486, Sarıyer. www.antiochiaconcept.com. Asmalımescit, T: 0212 345 5323. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). Minare Sok. 21, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 1100. C5. Cloud7 Restaurant, Bar & Terrace İst Too Located on the top floor, this restaurant takes in a This spot between Dolmabahçe Palace and the Maybe Salomanje Bej Karaköy breathtaking Bosphorus view. With its new name Naval Museum serves fine Japanese, Southeast Try local delicacies like stuffed chard, Turkish With a menu offering both Turkish and European and remodelled interior, the restaurant offers a rich Asian, Mediterranean and Turkish dishes, including dumplings, mücver, cızbız köfte, çentik kebabı and cuisine and fresh fruit cocktails, this French-style selection of Turkish and world cuisines. a good selection of sushi and noodles. mosaic cake in this great spot for lunch, a romantic restaurant stays open into the night on weekends. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.hilton.com.tr. Hilton Mon-Sat L & D. HHHH www.shangri-la.com. dinner or Sunday brunch. Its bar is also highly Make sure to sample the salads and desserts. ParkSa, Maçka Bayıldım Cad. 12. Shangri-La Bopshorus, Hayrettin İskelesi Sok. 1, popular. HHH Daily L&D. www.salomanje.com.tr. HH Mon-Thu 10am-12am, Fri & Sat 10am-2am. T: 0212 258 5674. B7. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 275 8888. B7. Atiye Sok. 4/2, Teşvikiye. Sun 10am-5pm. Kemankeş Cad. Fransız Geçidi T: 0212 327 3577. A6. İş Merkezi, 11 A, Karaköy. T: 0212 251 7195. C5. Compass Roof Restaurant&Bar Kız Kulesi (Maidens Tower) Located in the Titanic Hotel in Kartal, this spot Located in the middle of the Bosphorus, with Midpoint Big Chef offers many special flavours ranging from seafood superb 360-degree view, the Maiden’s Tower Select varieties from international cuisines, warm Whether you’re just starting your day or going for to select Far Eastern dishes. Savour the variety of serves as a coffee house during the day and architecture and unparalleled presentation. Among lunch, a coffee break or dinner, Big Chef has a great cocktails while enjoying live music in the elegant restaurant in the evenings, with tasty international the many choices, the vegetable fettucini and thin range of choices. The rich menu, from burgers to and charming modern ambiance. HHH Daily D. cuisines. Live music by local and international taco salad, Cajun basket, Bosphorus kebab and healthy salads, filling wraps and fresh juices, is sure Kaptan-ı Derya Cad. 37, Titanic Business Hotel, musicians after 10pm. Accessible by boat service Carribean dessert are particularly worth a try. to have something to appeal to everyone. Kartal. T: 0216 453 5050. Off map. departing from Salacak on the hour. HH Daily B, L & D. www.midpoint.com.tr. Abdi HHH Daily B, L & D. www.bigchefs.com.tr. HHH Daily L & D. www.kizkulesi.com.tr. Salacak İpekçi Cad. 59, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 9401. A6. Delicatessen Meşrutiyet Cad. 96, Tünel, Beyoğlu. Mevkii, Üsküdar. T: 0216 342 4747. D7. Featuring dishes that combine Turkish tastes, Minyon T: 0212 251 7180. C5. local ingredients and international delicacies, Kitchenette Minyon presents world cuisine in a modern, Bosphorus Grill the extensive menu includes breakfast, starters, A quality chain with locations throughout İstanbul, unpretentious ambiance. Minyon’s olives, 29-day This elegant, shaded restaurant overlooking the sandwiches, fresh ravioli, lasagne, meat and fish Kitchenette boasts a broad array of dishes aged ribeye , and chocolate almond tart Bosphorus serves a tempting menu of grilled courses as well as an extensive wine list. HHH including breakfast, starters, sandwiches, salads, are just a few of their very special dishes. HHH meats, fish and seafood, plus Turkish favourites. Daily B, L & D. www.delicatessenistanbul.com. pastas, meat, fish-seafood, fresh bread, cakes, and www.minyon.com. W İstanbul, Süleyman Seba Cad. This summer’s surprise is a selection of specially Nişantaşı, Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 19/1, Nişantaşı. exclusively produced house wines, olives and 22, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 381 2121. B7. marinated meats and fish cooked in an Indian-style T: 0212 225 0604. A6. Pera, Asmalımescit Mah. oils. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.kitchenette.com.tr. . HHH Daily D. Çırağan Palace Kempinski Oteller Sok. 10-B, Beyoğlu. The Marmara Taksim, Gümüşsuyu Mah. Takı Zafer Nikol This concept shop and kitchen turns out İstanbul, Çırağan Cad. 84, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 244 8455 - 56. C4. Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 292 6862. B6. chocolates, pastries, organic , snacks, T: 0212 236 7333. B8/B9. Divan Brasserie Bebek La Boom salads and more. Take a close look at the décor; Brasserie, The The brasserie offers breathtaking views and a menu New York Citty’s neighborhood styled bistro, everything in this modern vintage venue is for sale! International and local flavours meet at this chain that combines the best of Turkish and international restaurant, and cafe, La Boom offers international HHH Daily B, L & D. www.nikolgalata.com. Serdar-ı with branches throughout İstanbul. The venue cuisine, including classic and modern flavours, tastes like crab served on oyster shells, Rigatoni Ekrem Sok. 9, Galata. T: 0212 251 5158. D5. makes a point of using fresh natural and organic complemented by an extensive wine cellar. Pitti or Praline fete. HHH Daily B & L & D & N. Try Something Thai! ingredients. HHH Daily B, L & D. HHH Daily B & L & D. www.divan.com.tr. Cevdet Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 14, Emirgan. The restaurant that introduced İstanbul to Thai cuisine, ÇokÇok’s architecture and Olivos Restaurant Decorated in warm, brilliant colours, Olivos www.eliteworldhotel.com.tr. Şehit Muhtar Cad. 42, Paşa Cad. 28/A, Bebek. T: 0212 263 2973. Off map. T: 0212 277 8807. Off map. authentic décor creates the magical atmosphere of Asia. Boasting a wide selection of Restaurant’s award-winning culinary team offers Elite World İstanbul Hotel, Taksim. delicious dishes, the service is fantastic, and a lounge bar with Chillout and World Music Divan Brasserie Kalamış La Delicatesse Restaurant Mediterranean and international cuisine in smart, T: 0212 313 8383. B5. This is an excellent choice for those looking to Looking for something different? completes a great evening out. casual and comfortable surroundings. HHH Daily B, Cafe Sofa escape the city’s hustle and bustle, a safe haven Try La Delicatesse to take in the colours of the Meşrutiyet Cad. 51, Tepebaşı. T: 0212 292 6496. L & D. www.radissonblu.com. Radisson Blu Airport This delightful café with a simple, home-style of calm and elegance where you can enjoy seaside and enjoy the enchanting moonlight with Hotel, E-5 Karayolu 20, Küçükçekmece. décor, offers a menu of dishes from around the Divan chefs’ most enticing specialities, against a family and friends, and savour dishes prepared with T: 0212 411 3838. Off map.

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spectacular setting along the Bosphorus. The Tue-Sat D; Sun L. www.anticalocanda.com.tr. portions. Delicious! HHH Daily L & D. also offers delicacies from world cuisines. Chill-out restaurant draws local and foreign guests with its Satış Meydanı 12, Arnavutköy. T: 0212 287 9745. www.fratellilabufalaistanbul.com. Kar Kuyusu Sok. cosy, groove, acid jazz and beach house music innovative Mediterranean menu highlighting fresh Off map. Trump Towers Mall, Zemin K:13 Şişli. between 4pm-8pm and after dinner. HHH seafood dishes. HHHH Daily B, L & D. Çırağan Cad. T: 0212 347 99 00. Off map. Daily L & D. www.mirrorbistro.com. Suadiye Park, Aqua 46, Radisson Blu Bosphorus Hotel, Ortaköy. A Blok 2, Kat: 3, Suadiye. T: 0216 464 2710. Off One of the most talk-about restaurants in İstanbul Jamie’s Italian T: 0212 310 1500. B8. with its master chefs, unparalleled service and With a creative menu featuring authentic gourmet map. Sultan Restaurant excellent location. Modern interior. Mainly dishes made with the freshest ingredients, Jamie’s Morini Elegant, wood-dominated interior reminiscent of Mediterranean and Italian dis hes, minestrone menu includes delicious köfte, chicken with From the décor to the quality service, Morini is palaces surrounded by glass walls. The talented soup, line caught sea bass filet, mixed sea-food , and treats from around the world, in a pure New York. The home-made pastas reign plate. HHHH Daily B, L & D. 6am-11pm. kitchen team produces select flavours from Turkish warm, welcoming environment. supreme here; the favourite of celebrities such as and world cuisines. HHHH Daily L & D. www.fourseasons.com. Four Seasons Bosphorus, HHH Daily L & D. www.jamieoliver.com. Catherine Zeta Jones, Brad Pitt and Heidi Klum, its www.grandcevahirhotel.com. Grand Cevahir Hotel, Çırağan Cad. 28, Beşiktaş. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. dishes are created by Michelin-star chef Michael Darülaceze Cad. Okmeydanı, Şişli. T: 0212 381 4059. A9. T: 0212 353 6808. Off map. White. HHHH Daily B, L & D. Daily B & L & D. T: 0212 314 4242. Off map. Carluccio’s Mezzaluna Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. Txm People The İstanbul branch of this restaurant, named after Mezzaluna serves cold appetizers and carpaccios, T: 0212 353 6767. Off map. Txm People’s serves delicious Turkish and famous chef Antonio Carluccio himself, serves thin crust pizzas baked in a wood oven, and fresh Papermoon international dishes and offers 64 different wines. authentic Italian flavours in a relaxed, authentic hand-made pastas all in a colourful, cheerful This elegant venue serves unique Italian delicacies. The cocktail list is impressive, and with music atmosphere. Check out their gourmet market. atmosphere. HHH Daily L & D. HHH Its spacious bar and café are open all day, and covering tracks from the 70s onwards, offers Daily B, L & D. Kanyon Shopping Centre, www.mezzaluna.com.tr. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 21, something for locals and visitors alike. HH Daily B & Büyükdere Cad. 185, Levent. T: 0212 353 0545. loved by İstanbul high society. Reservations Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 3142. A6. L & D & N. www.cvkhotels.com. CVK Hotels Taksim, Shopping Centre Map (p.32). recommended. HHHH Daily L & D. Sıraselviler Cad. 11, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 8383. C5. Mirror www.papermoon.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Cento Per Cento This venue includes both a restaurant and bar in Shopping Centre 224, Etiler. T: 0212 282 1616. Turkuaz Restaurant With a concept based on everyday Italian food, a minimalist interior. Predominantly Italian menu Shopping Centre Map (p.32). Restaurant offering delightful international starters are served in snack-sized portions so it’s flavours. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.dedeman.com. easy to sample a wide range of dishes. Chef’s Dedeman İstanbul, Yıldız Posta Cad. 50, Esentepe. homemade ravioli, fresh pastas and classical T: 0212 337 4500. A7. Neapolitan pizza by-the-meter are some of the highlights. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. Tuti www.centopercento.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. In the middle of the city, this stylish restaurant Zati Apt. 36, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 6202. A6. 360ISTANBUL SUADA CLUB boasts a menu with world flavours, plus a fine wine Kuruçeşme Park, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 263 6623. cellar with over 200 selections. HHH Daily B, L & D. Da Mario www.themarmarahotels.com. The Marmara Taksim, With a typical southern Italian atmosphere Taksim Meydanı. T: 0212 334 8300. B6. and delicious Mediterranean dishes including homemade fresh pastas and pizzas from the wood Park Şamdan T: 0216 400 0000. Off map. Ulus 29 oven. Extensive wine list. HHHH Daily L & D. A classic venue in town, Park Şamdan offers Flavours from around the world by international Wiew Point Restaurant www.istanbuldoors.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. an extensive menu of delicious Turkish and chefs who prepare sushi and Mediterranean dishes The first Art Tech hotel in Turkey, Point Hotel Dilhayat Sok. 7, Etiler. T: 0212 265 5186. Off map. international delicacies. Wide variety of local and plus Turkish specialties such as kebab and pide. Barbaros Roof restaurant with its excellent foreign liquors and cocktails. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. Dazzling panoramic view of Bosphorus. Booking Del Mare Bosphorus view offers an open buffet featuring the www.parksamdan.com. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 14, required. HHHH Mon-Fri L & D, Sat-Sun D. Excellent location on the Bosphorus with a exquisite flavours of Turkish cuisine. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 0710. A6. www.club29.com. Adnan Saygun Cad. Yol Sok. 71/1, delightful view, especially inviting at sunset. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.pointhotel.com. Ulus. T: 0212 358 2929. Off map. Try specialities including mussel ravioli, paella, and Park Şamdan Pera Point Hotel Barbaros, Esentepe Yıldız Posta Cad. fish on mashed . Also accessible by boat With its new location in the Rixos Pera Hotel, Park 29, Şişli. T: 0212 337 3000. A7. Veranda Grill & Bar from Kuruçeşme on the European side. HHHH Şamdan offers fine dining featuring Turkish and Enjoy a wonderful combination of alfresco dining Daily L & D. www.del-mare.com. Kuleli Cad. 45/1, international specialities, plus exciting nightlife Sarnıç with a Bosphorus view, and select Turkish and Çengelköy. T: 0216 422 5762. Off map. spiced up by Turkish music. HHH Mon-Fri L, D & N. A restaurant dating to the Repuclican period international dishes including delicious kebabs and www.parksamdan.com. Tamer Hatun, Meşrutiyet housed in a cistern at the end of an old Ottoman fresh charcoal-grilled fish and burgers. Or head to Eataly Cad. 44, K:8, Tepebaşı. T: 0212 377 7000. C4. street. Favourites include shrimp cocktail, crepe the bar for a wonderful cocktail with a breathtaking With 24 branches including New York, Chicago and Bosphorus, paçanga börek, Karsky Oriental, and İstanbul sunset. HHH www.hilton.com.tr. several Italian cities, this new venue of the market- Parlé desserts like fried banana and pineapple with Daily D. Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet Cad. Harbiye. restaurant chain offers top-quality Italian cheeses, This elegant and sophisticated restaurant serves ice cream. Daily D. www.sarnicrestaurant.com. T: 0212 343 8081. B6. pastas, sauces and more. Featuring fine food and fine international cuisine in its own unique style. Soğukçeşme Sok. 26, Sultanahmet. quality shopping, Eataly scores high points with its Highlights of the menu include filet mignon with T: 0212 512 4291- 0212 513 3660. F4. Vogue Restaurant & Bar pizzas and desserts HHH Daily 10am-11pm. Cafe De Paris sauce, roast duck and seafood salad Located on the top floor of BJK Plaza, this elegant Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu. www.eataly.com.tr. HHHH Sekizİstanbul with goat cheese. Daily L & D. restaurant offers 70 different sushi varieties. T: 0212 336 6600. Off map. Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu Cad. Beşiktaş. A popular spot with simple white décor, regulars Enjoy white and red house wines as well as olive T: 0212 353 6340. Off map. love the delicious treats from its pizza oven, snack oils exclusively prepared for Vogue against a Emporio Armani Ristorante selections and 37 tempting dishes, both Turkish superb Bosphorus view. Reservations required. This casual dining spot features a cafe and bar on Picasso Restaurant and international. HHH Daily L & D. Wed-Sat L, D & HHHH Daily L & D. www.istanbuldoors.com. its lower floor. The furniture, dominated by ivory Ottoman and Spanish cuisines are well represented N. www.sekizistanbul.com. Kuloğlu Mah. Gazeteci Spor Cad. BJK Plaza A Blok 92, K:13, Akaretler. and black, is accompanied by Armani sparkle on on Picasso’s a la carte menu and in the buffet. Erol Dernek Sok. 1, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 8924. C5. T: 0212 227 4404. B7. the wall. The menu features outstanding traditional HHH Daily L & D. www.barcelo.com. Italian and Mediterranian flavours including Millet Cad. 186, Barceló Eresin Topkapı. Sky Bar scallops with cream sauce, capesante and classic T: 0212 631 1212. Off map. A la carte restaurant on the top floor of the Plaza ITALIAN Italian panna cotta. HHH Daily L & D. İstinye Park A Corner of Japan in İstanbul Hotel with one of the finest panoramic views of 519, İstinye, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 6140. Hori is a sushi restaurant, designed with traditional wood screen partitions and featuring Remina Restaurant Antica Locanda the city, featuring international cuisine and fine Shopping Centre Map (p.36). the quintessential flavours of Japanese cuisine. The menu also offers fresh sashimi, plus In one of the most beautiful spots on Kalamış bay, The former of the Taxiarchis Greek service. HHH Tue-Sun D. www.theplazahotel.com. traditional fried and steamed dishes, along with serene background music. Remina serves a tempting selection of international tr. Barbaros Bulvarı 165, The Plaza Hotel İstanbul, Orthodox Church – İstanbul’s largest Ottoman- Fratelli La Bufala dishes. Try their pepper cream soup, Chalcedon era Greek church – is now a restaurant serving Known for its buffalo mozzarella, this restaurant is Grand Hyatt Hotel, Taşkışla Cad. 1, Şişli. T: 0212 230 9000. Balmumcu, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 370 2020. A8. burger, and basil-parmesan bread fresh from the traditional Italian food. Favourite menu items also famed for its Neapolitan-style pizzas. Taste http://istanbul.grand.hyatt.com oven daily. HHH Daily B, L & D. Starboard Restaurant include the Sardinian-style potatoes with mint and the superb cheese on the pizzas themselves, and

Wyndham İstanbul, Fener Cad. 38, Kalamış. Enjoy al fresco dining complemented by a stuffed homemade fagottini. HHH Wed-Sat L & D; you can even order it in single 125- or 500-gram

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Piola spend a long, relaxing weekend morning; at night A wide variety of grills, daily set menus and Now boasting a branch in Turkey, international Floripa turns into a bar featuring great DJ sets. southern Mediterranean specialties promise chain Piola is known as the ‘pizzeria to the stars’ HHH Daily B, L, D & N. www.d-ream.com.tr. a delightful experience. HHH Daily B, L & D. with regulars in its US branches including Will Rumeli Hisarı, Baltalimanı Cad. No:4 Sarıyer. www.orangemedgrill.com. Kayışdağ Cad. 1 /1, Smith and Jennifer Lopez. Three-quarters of T: 0212 287 6220. Off map. İstanbul Marriot Hotel Asia, Ataşehir. its menu consists of pizzas, with fresh toppings T: 0216 570 0038. Off map. including mozzarella, shrimp and porcini. Frankie HHH Daily L & D. www.pointhotel.com. Point Otel Boasting three different sections, choose from the Sunset Grill&Bar Barbaros, Esentepe, Yıldız Posta Cad. 29, Şişli. terrace, city lounge and main restaurant. Among This well-known İstanbul venue offers a the most impressive offerings are their artichoke magnificient Bosphorus view accompanied by an T: 0212 337 3000. A7. mücver in cheese fondue, and talaş börek on a exclusive wine list and . Ristorante Italia bed of beef. Or stop by in the evening and enjoy Bar opens in the evenings, offering an entertaining With a simple, grey-dominated decor and art-lined live music along with their signature passion fruit night with a DJ. Booking required. HHHH Mon-Sat walls, the menu here features traditional Italian cocktail. HHH Daily L, D & N. Sofa Hotel, Teşvikiye L & D. www.sunsetgrillbar.com. Adnan Saygun Cad. dishes created by Chef Massimo Bottura. Tue-Sun Cad. 41, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 230 6666. A6. Yol Sok. 2, Ulus. T: 0212 287 0357-58. Off map. L & D. www.osteriafrancescana.it Zorlu Center, Galliard, The Topaz Zincirlikuyu. T: 0212 336 6600. Off map. Serving predominantly Spanish, French and Italian Chic restaurant offering traditional and modern cuisine, specialities at this contemporary elegant Turkish/Mediterranean cuisine. The traditional lebanese restaurant include homemade pastas, plus their Turkish menu includes yuvarlama soup and chard special bread with , raisins and wine. stuffed with meat and ; the modern menu Al Bushra Tue-Sat L, D & N. Sun & Mon L & D. features roasted cheek of beef, celeriac puree, Nestled on the 9th flor of Hilton İstanbul, Al Bushra www.thegalliard.com. Nispetiye Cad. 104, Etiler. crème brulée with foie gras and sweet marsala promises a delightful and unforgettable dining T: 444 0 233. Off map. sauce. HHH Daily L & D. www.topazistanbul.com. experience featuring authentic Lebanese dishes İnönü Cad. Devres Han 50, Gümüşsuyu. by expert chefs, select wines and a brathtaking Halat Restaurant T: 0212 249 1001. B6. Bosphorus view. HHH Daily L & D. Located inside the Rahmi M. Koç Museum, this www.hilton.com.tr. Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet restaurant boasts an eye-catching interior where Sir Winston Brasserie Cad. K:9, Harbiye. T: 0212 343 8081. B6. sailboats are used for décor. The menu is based on This elegantly and meticulously decorated venue Mediterranean cuisine with an extensive local and really stands out. On the menu, Italian pizzas, foreign wine list. HHH Daily L & D. pastas and risottos are paired with traditional wines MEDITERRANEAN www.halatrestaurant.com. Rahmi Koç Museum, from Turkey’s Urla region. Try their delicious salads, 34 Restaurant Kumbarhane Cad. 2, Hasköy, Sütlüce. and chicken, meat and fish marinated in a special T: 0212 369 6616. sauce for a feast fit for a king – and top it off with a Personalised service with live kitchen shows B2. splendid dessert. HHH Şair Nedim Cad. 3, Beşiktaş, form just part of the exclusive atmosphere at 34 Lacivert Akaretler. T: 212 259 9919. B7. Restaurant. Its ‘Food under the Sun’ concept, Exquisite Mediterranean flavours combined with based on Mediterranean and Turkish cuisine, a most romantic Bosphorus view. The restaurant X Restaurant ensures a unique dining experience. Daily L & D, delights its guests with seasonally changing menus New venue located on the 6th floor of the Taşkışla Cad. 1, Taksim, Beyoğlu. and excellent seafood. Anything that comes out İstanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts. Mainly T: 0212 368 1234. C4. of the sea, from calamari to octopus, and Mediterranean menu offers risottos, pastas, pizzas shrimp as well a vast selection of fish. and desserts plus Turkish dishes. HHH Daily L & D. A’jia Restaurant Brunch on Sundays. HHHH Daily L & D. www.xrestaurantbar.com. Sadi Konuralp Cad. 5, With its unique fusion of contemporary www.lacivertrestaurant.com. Körfez Cad. 57/A, Şişhane. T: 0212 244 7101. interior design and 18th-century architecture C5. Anadolu Hisarı, Beykoz. T: 0216 413 4224. Off map. in a spectacular Bosphorus-front location, this Yelken Restaurant restaurant has a reputation for quality service. La Mancha Boasting lovely Bosphorus views, this modern HHHH Daily B, L & D. www.ajiahotel.com. Serving a mix of Italian, Moroccan and Spanish restaurant serves an excellent selection of classical Çubuklu Cad. 27, A’jia Hotel, Ahmet Rasim Paşa cuisine, La Mancha offers a delicious variety Turkish fish dishes plus original Mediterranean Yalısı, Kanlıca. T: 0216 413 9300. Off map. of hot and cold tapas dishes, fresh seafood flavours including moules marineieres, surf and and Moroccan-style lamb tagine, along with turf, seafood linguini and paella. HHH Daily L & Bloom 150 wine selections and cocktails. Daily L & D. D. www.yelkenrestaurant.com. Köybaşı Cad. 58, This high-ceilinged spacious venue has another www.lamancha.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. 107, Yeniköy. T: 0212 262 9490. surprise – a wide green terrace filled with Off map. Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 257 1144. Off map. grapefruit, olive, and orange trees. The stars of the menu include dishes cooked in Mia Mensa MODERN OCAKBAŞI their stone oven; try beef tas kebabı, and köfte with This restaurant, serving Mediterranean and Italian kashar cheese, to name just a few. HH cuisine plus international dishes, is enhanced by Ali Daily B, L & D. Ambarlı Dere Cad. 6, Ortaköy. its enchanting Bosphorus view. Try the flounder With a view of the historic peninsula, high ceilings T: 0212 288 6582. Off map. with lemon sauce, the four-cheese pizza and the and a modern design, Ali’s menu is devoted mainly tiramisu. HHH www.miamensa.com. Muallim Naci to kebabs and meats. Specialities include their Flamingo Cad. 64/C, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 263 4214. Off map. signature Ali Kebap and the traditional pumpkin Mediterranean cuisine with a focus on Italian takes dessert served with tahini and ice cream. HHH centre stage at this high-end restaurant, which Müzedechanga Daily L & D. Arap Camii Mah. Tersane Cad. 45/ 4, converts into a nightclub after dinner. Items include The restaurant takes in breathtaking Bosphorus Grifin Han, Karaköy. T: 0212 293 1011. C5 pizzas, pastas and risottos, plus desserts including views and centuries-old pine trees, with an chocolate mousse, chocolate tart and tiramisu. excellent menu to match. Be sure to try the fresh The Prosecco cocktail comes highly recommended. blackeyed peas with tarator, filet mignon new anatolıan HHHH Mon-Sat L, D & N. www.flamingoist.com. with green bulgur pilaf, tortellini with spinach and Mikla Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 232 6868. B6. lor cheese, mosaic pastry and tiramisu. HHH Tue-Sat L & D, Sat-Sun B. Mikla opened in October 2005. The initial idea was Floripa www.changa-istanbul.com. Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 42, to create a refined but contemporary “İstanbullu” This restaurant, café and bar in , on one Restaurant. Both the menu and the general feel Atlıköşk, Emirgan. T: 0212 323 0901. Off map. of the loveliest spots on the Bosphorus, welcomes of the Restaurant reflect the Turkish-Scandinavian you with its Mediterranean food including salads, Orange Restaurant background of Mehmet Gürs. HHHH Mon-Sat D. pastas, and pizzas cooked in a real wood oven. This venue offers the flavours of Moroccan, www.istanbulyi.com. The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet Its vast breakfast menu makes it the ideal place to Algerian, Lebanese and Turkish cuisine. Cad. 94, K:7, Taksim. T: 0212 293 5656. C4.

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www.theplazahotel.com.tr. Barbaros Bulvarı 165, Kay Ngee Tan, and managed by a London-trained Raika fried diced liver, and lamb roulade are just a few of The Plaza Hotel İstanbul, Balmumcu, Beşiktaş. management team. HHH Daily L & D. The immensely varied cuisine of Anatolia is its delightful specialities. HHH Mon-Sat D. T: 0212 370 2020. A8. www.cokcok.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 51, Tepebaşı. served in an innovative presentation, with strong www.refikrestaurant.com. Asmalımescit Cad. T: 0212 292 6496. emphasis of seasonal ingredients. Located on C4. Sofyalı Sok. 6, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 2834. C4. the terrace floor of The Marmara Taksim, and Pera Thai A Place That Deserves Its Name sPECIAL SPOTS boasting a panoramic view of the city, the bar with Seasons The name Ferah Feza alludes to fresh, open spaces, and with its terraces offering a Outstanding presentation of Thai cuisine, which its magnificent view is the perfect spot for early Spacious antique-themed interior surrounded Mahalle stunning view of the Galata Tower and Historic Peninsula, this restaurant lives up to has risen to prominence in recent years. Jazz and evening get-togethers. HHHH Daily L, D & N. Located on the top floor of City’s Nişantaşı by glass. Seasons Restaurant serves Turkish its name. The décor, reflecting the Karaköy’s artisan tradition, creates a comfortable, ethnic music tunes provide a smooth ambiance for The Marmara Taksim Hotel, 20/F, Taksim. shopping centre, Mahalle offers a variety of dinners. Original flavours and exotic atmosphere specialities featuring local products Braised welcoming atmosphere. The Turkish cuisine reflects the cultural mosaic of the T: 0212 2433773. C5. services under one roof from a butcher to a flower from Thailand brought to guests in a simple Artichoke, Hengel Ravioli, cold cress- Mediterranean, with specialities including salmon in vine leaves with tahini sauce, shop, greengrocer, bookstore and coffee shop. interior decorated with authentic objects. Mon-Sat Refik Restaurant and with lamb ragout. HHHH Daily B, casserole with grilled octopus, green apple and scallop risotto, and chicken with There’s something for every need and occasion. L & D. HHH www.perathai.com. Meşrutiyet Cad. One of the best taverns in town for 65 years, L & D, Sunday brunch. www.fourseasons.com. caramelised figs . Daily 10am-10pm. www.citysnisantasi.com. 74/A,Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 5726. C4. this spot is an İstanbul classic with its congenial Tevfikhane Sok. 1, Four Seasons Sultanahmet Kemankeş Cad. 31/5, Karaköy. T: 0212 243 5154-55. Teşvikiye Cad. 162, Nişantaşı. atmosphere. Pastırma in paper, ‘Albanian style’ Hotel, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 402 3000. E5. T: 0212 373 3333. A6. TURKISH Trump Cadde Located on the terrace floor of Trump Towers Casita Shopping Centre, this is home to event spaces plus Very popular for its mantı, a Turkish dumpling brands including Limonata, Bali Bey, Nezih Kebap, served with yoghurt, and soup, Casita also Rumi , Fiorucci, PapaBubble and Plus offers temptations like Bodrum’s famous çökertme Kitchen. It’s an ‘avenue with a view’ which creates kebab, casserole and “paper the carefree spirit of the street. doll” dessert. This restaurant is open 24 hours daily. HH Daily L&D. www.casita.com.tr. Atiye Sok. Karkuyusu Sok. Şişli. T: 0212 3487867. Off map. 3, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 327 8293. A6. steakhouse Çintemani Restaurant Named after one of the most important motifs in Maçka Günaydın Et Restaurant traditional Ottoman art, this venue is open all day. With a wood-dominated, historic feel, this spot Menu inspired by the most distinguished dishes of serves a variety of kebabs and meats. Try the the Mediterranean and Ottoman Court cuisines. smoked meat platter, succulent steaks and the HHHH Daily B, L & D. Daily 6:30am-11pm. hand-churned HHH Daily L & D. www.ritzcarlton.com. The Ritz-Carlton, İstanbul, www.gunaydinet.com. Swissôtel the Bosphorus, Elmadağ, Şişli. T: 0212 334 4188. Off map. Bayıldım Cad. 2, Maçka. T: 0212 258 1203. B7. Günaydın N Burger This simply-decorated two-storey restaurant, with This cosy restaurant’s menu includes the Nusret a spacious garden, serves delicious kebabs and Burger, Lokum Burger and Sucuklu Burger, along other grilled meats. The mainstays of the menu with a selection of köfte and meats. The tulum are the fındık (an appetizer-sized version cheese salad and baklava are some of its most of the familiar ‘Turkish pizza’), stuffed köfte and popular dishes. Daily L & D. www.d-ream.com.tr. chopped kebabs, including their special pistachio Abdi Ipekçi Cad. 57/A, Reasürans Çarşısı, Nişantaşı. kebab. HHH Daily L&D. Kazım Özalp Cad. 58, Şaşkınbakkal. T: 0216 417 9209. T: 0212 231 2470-71. A6. Off map. Karaköy Lokantası Nusr-Et In keeping with Nusret’s decor, meats are brought Located across from the customs house, this on teak planks and served on white porcelain. The restaurant looks like a French bistro from the outside, but the Ottoman style interior with its restaurant focuses on meat, salads and wine; meats turquoise tiles and wrought iron railings gives are cooked to order. HHH Daily L & D. Nispetiye the feel of a warm, welcoming tavern. Specialities Cad. 87, Etiler. T: 0212 358 3022. Off map. include mezes like mashed broad beans and The Market @ Bosphorus smoked octopus, plus skewered lamb and fish Minimalist design meets classic Turkish and world . HHH Daily L & D. Kemankeş Cad. 37/A, Tuğra Restaurant cuisine, with classic meats, steaks and burgers, plus Karaköy. T: 0212 292 4455. D5. ottoman A favourite of gourmets, this venue serves classical foie gras and a selection of seafood. Daily B, Ottoman dishes accompanied by live Turkish Ma’na Asitane Restaurant L & D. HHH Kuruçeşme Mah. Muallim Naci Cad. 56, classical music in an authentic atmosphere on the A nostalgic venue with a meyhane atmosphere, Specializing in Ottoman Court cuisine, this is an Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 257 4111. A9. waterfront. HHHH Daily D. serving Turkish delicacies with Turkish semi- exciting venue with a menu based on the 1539 www.kempinski-istanbul.com. Çırağan Cad. 32, Steak N More Istan’bull classical music in the background. The impressive ‘Book of Feasts’. The menu offers specialties like Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul, Beşiktaş. Synonymous with its chef Fikret Özdemir (p. 4), this rakı menu offers 33 different varieties. As in any chestnut soup, shrimp-stuffed calamari, hassa T: 0212 258 3377. B8. restaurant concentrates mostly on meat and fish. meyhane, the mezes reign supreme; they also serve börek, kırma chicken kebab, sea bass biryan and All dishes are made from 100% Turkish meat, plus a very good kadayıf pastry for dessert. -scented for dessert. HHH Daily L & D. its local cheese and wines. Try the piri piri shrimp, HHH Mon-Sat L&D. Kemankeş Mah. Fransız Geçidi www.asitanerestaurant.com. Kariye Camii Sok. 6, PUB lamb shanks, and künefe for dessert. HHH Daily L 53/8, Karaköy. T: 0212 293 0993. D5. Edirnekapı. T: 0212 635 7997. & D. www.radissonblu.com. Radisson Blu Hotel, C2. Divan Pub Elmadağ Peymane İstanbul Şişli, 19 Mayıs Cad. 12, Şişli. The extensive and tempting menu includes a range Located in a five-storey registered historical İstanbul and its Cuisine Matbah T: 0212 375 0000. Located in a building that was used as a prison until the late Ottoman period, Surplus Off map. building, the restaurant also contains a charcuterie Offering authentic specialities from Ottoman of local specialties, including döner kebab. Daily B Restaurant serves popular Turkish dishes. Boasting a 360º view that encompasses the with fine cheeses and cold meats. Above the Palace cuisine in an historical setting, Matbah in & L & D. www.divan.com.tr. Divan İstanbul, Asker entrance is a VIP salon, with an indoor dining room Golden Horn, Galata, the Bosphorus and most of the Historic Peninsula, Surplus offers Ocağı Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 315 5500. B6. thaı the Historical Peninsula is surrounded by iconic on the top floor. The kebab grill lends an elegant delicious traditional dishes including Tatar mantı, satır köfte and grilled lamb. buildings like Topkapı Palace and Hagia Sophia. Ph Pub HHH ÇokÇok Thai Restaurant & Bar decorative touch. Daily L & D. Ragıp Gümüş Cad. 54, Kat 3-4, Eminönü. T: 0212 520 1002. HHH Daily B, L&D. www.matbahrestaurant.com. A wide variety of appetizer buffets, grills and Rich authentic Thai menu in a sophisticated www.peymane-lacucina.com. Tomtom, Boğazkesen Caferiye Sok. 6/1, Sultanahmet. desserts are served from 11:30am to 8:30pm in PH setting. Created by an award-winning female Thai Cad. 65/1, Tophane. www.surplus.com.tr T: 0212 514 6151. F4. pub on the lobby floor. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. chef, designed by renowned Singaporean architect T: 0212 244 0955. C5.

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in vine leaves with tahini sauce, and bean casserole Feriye Lokantası presentation on gold-plated service all add up to with the distinct flavours of southeastern Turkish with grilled octopus. HHH Daily B, L, D & N. Historical building that housed a police station a a memorable meal. HH Daily L & D. cuisine in a quiet, peaceful atmosphere. HHH www.ferahfeza-ist.com. Kemankeş Cad. 31/5, century ago. Menu offers Turkish and Ottoman www.konyalilokantasi.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Daily L & D. www.mabeyin.com. Eski Kısıklı Cad. 7, Karaköy. T: 0212 243 5154-55. D5. cuisines, with excellent Bosphorus views and stylish Kanyon Shopping Centre, Levent. Kısıklı. T: 0216 422 5580. Off map. ambiance. Specialities include sauteed lamb T: 0212 353 0450. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). Gile Restaurant fillet and pumpkin dessert. Heated terrace in Nar Lokanta Young chefs Cihan Kıpçak and Üryan Doğmuş add winter. HHHH Daily L & D. www.feriye.com. Çırağan Konyalı Lokantası Topkapı Sarayı With its menu of traditional Turkish and Ottoman a contemporary edge to familiar flavours, creating Cad. 40, Ortaköy. T: 0212 227 2216. Off map. Once home to the Ottoman Sultans, Topkapı specialities, Nar Lokanta celebrates the Ottoman new flavours such as filet mignon with fenugreek, Palace now offers its unparalleled Bosphorus view culinary tradition. Outstanding dishes include 24-hour lamb shank, and Saroz shrimp grilled over Hacı Abdullah Lokantası to diners. Enjoy the views and historical ambiance stuffed köfte, palace-style mantı, and şekerpare red pine. HHH Daily L & D. A long-established restaurant with a 121-year while savouring fine Turkish cuisine. Specialties with figs and poppyseeds. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. www.gilerestaurant.com. Şair Nedim Cad. history, ensuring continuity of Ottoman culinary include stuffed lamb, hünkar beğendi, islim kebabı www.narlokantasi.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 41, K:5, tradition, serves specialities including lamb-based Akaretler, Sıra Evler B Blok. 14, Akaretler. and a rich selection of desserts. HHH Wed-Mon L & Çemberlitaş. T: 0212 522 2800. E4. T: 0212 327 1166. A7/B7. meat dishes as well as and pilafs. D. www.konyalilokantasi.com. Topkapı Palace. HH Daily L & D. www.haciabdullah.com.tr. Pandeli T: 0212 513 9696. E5. Münferit Atıf Yılmaz Cad. 9/A, Taksim. T: 0212 293 8561. C5. An İstanbul classic located in the Egyptian Market, This chic, modern tavern-style restaurant is right at Köşebaşı its walls are covered with glamorous İznik tiles. Hamdi Et Lokantası the entrance of the Galata Residence. The menu This internationally-recognized chain restaurant With its Turkish delicacies, Pandeli is an ideal stop A classic İstanbul dining experience, this offers a combination of traditional and modern offers meat dishes from Adana and Tarsus region during a visit to the old city and the markets. restaurant’s glass-covered terrace offers a flavours, including marinated sea bass, hot grilled based on traditional recipes. The gavurdağı Toros, HH Daily L. www.pandeli.com.tr. Mısır Çarşısı 1, panoramic view of the city. With more than 40 shrimp on humus, black couscous with mussels, Abaganos fındık lahmacun, şaşlık kebab and Eminönü. T: 0212 527 3909. kebabs on the menu; plum kebab and E5. poached sea bass with clams, and shredded cheek halvah are especially good. Playground kebab are highly recommended. HHH Daily L&D. Safran of beef with . HHH Mon-Sat D. Yeni Çarşı Cad. available for the kids. HH Daily L & D. www.hamdirestorant.com.tr. Tahmis Cad. Multi-award winning venue with a magnificent 19, Taksim. T: 0212 252 5067. C5. www.kosebasi.com. Bronz Sok. 5, Maçka, Kalçın Sok. 11, Eminönü. Bosphorus view matched by a Turkish and T: 0212 230 3868. A6. REVMA BALIK Okka T: 0212 512 5424. D4. Ottoman-themed menu and interior. Live classical With turquoise ceramic columns and antique Mabeyin Turkish music every Wed and Fri. HHH Daily D. Bebek Cad. 7, Arnavutköy, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 263 5060. www.revmabalik.com Havuzlu Lokanta diamond-cut mirrors, Okka is definitely not your Located in the historical Mabeyinci Manor. Enjoy istanbul.intercontinental.com.tr. Intercontinental usual kebab restaurant. A welcoming atmosphere Experience five centuries of history in this restaurant nestled in the Grand Bazaar, featuring traditional Turkish cuisine in an exquisite setting. İstanbul, Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, Taksim. combines with a unique selection of mezes and exquisite Ottoman architecture. Specialties among Ideal choice for those who want to combine history T: 0212 368 4444. B6. Sofyalı 9 Borsa kebab. Highly recommended are the beef ribs, its home-style dishes include mashed eggplant, Turkish and Greek tunes provide the background A classic in İstanbul dining, this restaurant’s lamb küşneme (the finest cut of meat for kebab), roasted lamb and Abant-style kebab. HH Mon-Sat to warm conversation, while at least 25 mezes updated menus capture the flavours of Turkish steaks and the wonderfully varied meze plate. L. www.havuzlurestaurant.com. Gani Çelebi Sok. 3, tempt the taste buds - firm classis like chard stuffed cuisine with a Western twist. The result is stunning. HHH Daily L & D. www.wistanbul.com.tr. Kapalıçarşı, Eminönü. T: 0212 527 3346. E4. with mince meat, çoban , fincan pastry Paintings by famous artists exhibited in the W İstanbul, Süleyman Seba Cad. 22, 3/F, Akaretler. and ‘Albanian style’ diced fried liver, to seafood entrance welcome guests into this elegant venue. T: 0212 381 2189. B7. Hünkar Nişantaşı delicacies like mussels in red wine sauce, grilled HHH Daily L&D. www.borsa.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. Surplus Cosy, spacious, serving traditional Turkish dishes shrimp and octopus. Daily L, D&N. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, Sarıyer. and desserts. Popular choices include wrapped With views of both the historic peninsula and Pera, www.sofyali.com.tr. Asmalımescit Cad. Sofyalı Sok. T: 0212 345 5333. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). liver, tandoori lamb and lamb casserole with this restaurant serves fine Turkish cuisine. Must-try 9, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 3810. C4. yoghurt; for a truly Turkish dining experience Core Grill & Bar dishes include the roast lamb, satır köftesi and lamb try the lamb’s trotter soup, hünkar beğendi and Yeni Lokanta Radisson Blu Hotel, İstanbul Asia’s restaurant taraklık. HHH www.surplus.com.tr. Ragıp Gümüş Cad. semolina halvah. HH Daily L & D. Mim Kemal Öke Rustical, and decorated simply with tiles, trees is bright, relaxed and friendly. Ingredients from 54, Kat:3-4, Eminönü. T: 0212 520 1002. E5. Cad. 21, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 4665. A6. and flowers, Yeni Lokanta serves traditional dishes various cuisines blend harmoniously with Turkish made with ingredients from Anatolia. The bulgur dishes, with the chef’s specialties including chicken Kanaat Lokantası salad with sour cherries, mantı filled with dried schnitzel with kadayıf pastry and their Core kebab. TURKISH (tradıtıonal) Kanaat offers a stunning menu of 100-120 dishes eggplant and with are some HH Daily L & D. www.radissonblu.com. Beyti prepared daily including meat dishes, of the must-try offerings. HH Mon-Sat L & D. Radisson Blu Hotel, İstanbul Asia, Yakut Cad. Frequented by kings, prime ministers, celebrities dishes, desserts, ice creams and yoghurt. www.lokantayeni.com. Kumbaracı Yokuşu 66, HH Ataşehir. T: 0216 579 1100. Off map. and high society, this restaurant enjoys worldwide No alcohol. Daily L & D. Daily 6:30pm-11:30pm. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 2550. C5. www.kanaatlokantasi.com.tr. Selmanipak Cad. 9, Dai Pera fame for its meat dishes. An indisputable master of Üsküdar. T: 0216 341 5444. D8. Zeyrekhane Blending İstanbul’s vast history of Balkan, meat cookery with a dish named after him, owner Near the Zeyrek mosque, originally part of a Rumelian, Albanian, Jewish and Armenian Beyti Güler handpicks the ingredients. Its chorcoal Kandilli Borsa monastary, and entered through old wooden elements with a modern vision, the venue offers grilled meats are divine. HHH Tue-Sun L & D. Excellent ambiance in the garden of the historical houses, this restaurant offers a breathtaking view of traditional İstanbul flavours including white bean www.beyti.com. Orman Sok. 8, Florya. Adile Sultan Palace on a hilltop overlooking a Süleymaniye Mosque, the Blue Mosque and other stew with meat, Albanian-style liver, baked mantı T: 0212 663 2991. Off map. dazzling Bosphorus view. Top Ottoman palace historic landmarks from its terrace. The Turkish and quince dessert. HH Mon-Thu 9am-2am. dishes and traditional Turkish cuisine, the menu Darüzziyafe cuisine is complemented by a warm and nostalgic Fri&Sat 9am-4am. Sun 10am-2am. Yeni Çarşı Cad. also includes surprising blends of Mediterranean, Superb Turkish cuisine, with a lengthy menu interior filled with original paintings, imperial 54, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 8099. and Far Eastern cuisines. HHH Daily L & D. C5. reflecting centuries of Turkish dining traditions. edicts, quilted turbans, calligraphy and ornate tiles, www.borsarestaurant.com. Adile Sultan Sarayı, Divan Lokanta Located in the Süleymaniye complex and all originals.www.zeyrekhane.com. HHH Vaniköy Cad. 12, Vaniköy, Üsküdar. Divan Lokanta creates an innovative menu by seating over 1000, Darüzziyafe is an ideal place Tue-Sun B, L & D. Zeyrek Mah. İbadethane Arkası T: 0216 460 0304. Off map. combining the best of Turkish and Mediterranean to experience select Turkish dishes along with Sok. 10, Zeyrek, Fatih. T: 0212 532 2778. D3. dining, plus Divan’s signature dishes. The delicious sherbets and desserts. HH Daily L & Kaşıbeyaz Bophorus copper-leaf bar and ceiling-hung glass sculptures D. www.daruzziyafe.com.tr. Şifahane Cad. 4, Don’t be misled by its thoroughly modern 21st- TURKISH (MODERN) shimmering golden red set the tone in an inviting Süleymaniye. T: 0212 511 8414. E3. century decor; this restaurant serves traditional and elegant atmosphere, with countless vintage Turkish cuisine. Dominated by meat and kebabs, Develi Boğaziçi Borsa wines in illuminated racks. HHH Daily L & D. the menu also features home-style dishes and a A classic in İstanbul dining, this restaurant’s Located on legendary Kalamış Bay, Develi offers For Lovers of Asian Food www.divan.com.tr. Divan İstanbul, Asker Ocağı variety of sautéed and fried dishes. Daily L & D. Miyabi Sushi Japanese Grill Bar serves top-class Japanese food in a modern, elegant updated menus capture the flavours of Turkish a delightful atmosphere and stylish decor. Fine Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 315 5500. B6. www.kasibeyaz.com.tr Köybaşı Cad. 10, Yeniköy. cuisine with a Western twist. The result is stunning. Gaziantep and Turkish specialties include Ali Nazik atmosphere. Featuring natural wood décor and a Zen garden, it offers a wide variety of T: 0212 299 5000. Off map. Paintings by famous artists exhibited in the FerahFeza kebab, küşneme, maş piyazı, , and Japanese dishes plus a sushi menu. HHH entrance welcome guests into this elegant venue. With décor alluding to the local artisan tradition, Antep style stuffed dried . Konyalı Kanyon Mahzeytinoğlu Cad. Yaren Sok. 6/ 14-15, Akatlar, Beşiktaş. HHH Daily L & D. www.borsa.com. this new venue boasts two breezy terraces Daily L & D. www.develikebap.com. Konyalı is run by the fourth generation of the Lütfi Kırdar Convention & Exhibition Centre, overlooking Galata Tower and the Historic Münir Nurettin Selçuk Cad. Kalamış Marina, family, Mehmet Eren Doğanbey. Exclusive concept T: 0212 352 0222 Harbiye. T: 0212 232 4201. A6. Peninsula. Favourites on the menu include salmon Kadıköy. T: 0216 418 9400. Off map. and ambiance, the fine menu and luxurious

56 WHERE İstanbul I AUGUST 2014 august 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 57 ESSENTIALS ESSENTIALS USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency, Medical Emergency Ambulance Public. Open 24 hours. T: 112. Medline Private ambulance service. Open 24 hours. T: 0212 331 2000-444 1212. American Hospital Vehbi Koç Foundation American Hospital is a foundation-owned, acute general care hospital. Each year the Hospital serves 150.000 patients, providing a comprehensive array of primary care and specialty services. The medical staff includes over 500 active and visiting physicians. The Hospital is accredited by the Joint Commission International. www.amerikanhastanesi.org. Güzelbahçe Sok. 20, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 444 3777. Medamerican Outpatient Clinic MedAmerican Outpatient Clinic, located on the Asian side of İstanbul, is an outpatient clinic of the American Hospital. The clinic offers a wide array of medical, surgical, and ancillary health care services. www.medamerikan.com. Cemil Topuzlu Cad. 46 Çiftehavuzlar. T: 0216 468 2555.

Emergency, Dental Byomed Private medical centre that puts patient Ask The Concierge satisfaction first and approaches patients with empathy, offering services with a live support system. www.byomed.com.tr. ByOtell, Kozyatağı This month we spoke about İstanbul with Sarı Kanarya Sok. 14. T: 0216 571 6140. Murat Turan, concierge at Swissotel The Bosphorus. Dentistanbul First and only dedicated dental hospital in Turkey. Specialised and experienced staff, fully equipped operating room, ambulance and bed services. www.dentistanbul.com.tr. Yıldız Cad. 71, Beşiktaş. hat kind of city is İstanbul in choices; for a fish dinner, Rigel and İsmet T: 0212 444 0347. your eyes? Baba are the best. The Hard Rock Cafe is Pharmacies İstanbul is a city of thousand also a good choice. W Pharmacies are open during day until 7:30pm. international flights but mainly domestic flights, tastes, with both a historic and modern What about nightlife? Which bars and Every day, a different pharmacy remains open Gezidükkanları 7, Taksim. T: 0212 444 2538. airports plus all the budget airlines. Transport to and from fabric, and something to appeal to for 24 hours as a night pharmacy in every Atlasjet clubs are popular now? the airport include city buses, and taxis. As the neighbourhood. The names of the night www.atlasjet.com. T: 0212 444 3387. İstanbul has two major international airports; one everyone. İstanbul’s two most popular clubs now are airport is far away from central locations, ground pharmacies are displayed on the window of on the European side and the other on the Asian British Airways services provider Havataş also runs buses to and If your guests had just one day in İstanbul, Reina and Sortie – not only for dancing; every pharmacy. Pharmacists can check blood side. www.britishairways.com.tr. Maslak Mah. Bilim Sok. where would you send them? have dinner there and then party into the pressure, dress minor wounds and provide from Kozyatağı and Taksim. 5, K:15, Şişli. T: 0212 367 9292. Atatürk Airport Havataş Call Center T: 0212 444 0487. I think the perfect tour of İstanbul should night! Köşebaşı, Blue Topaz, Sortie and recommendations on medical assistance. The first and largest of İstanbul’s two airports www.havas.com.tr. www.treczane.com. Emirates this is situated 24km west of the city centre, on start in the historic neighbourhoods of Kalamata, all located inside Reina, turn out Sabiha Gökçen Airport T: 0216 585 5000. www.emirates.com. Şişli Plaza, 19 Mayıs Cad. 5/7, the European side. With both international and Fener and Balat. The Iron Church and the wonderful dishes. Useful Numbers www.sabihagokcen.aero. A Blok K:8, Şişli. T: 0212 315 4545. domestic flights operating round the clock, it Greek Patriarchate are especially worth Where do you like to spend your free time İstanbul Directory, 11811. Gulf Air boasts fully equipped emergency health services. LOST LUGGAGE OFFICE seeing. Turkcell Directory 11832. in İstanbul? , www.gulfair.com. Cumhuriyet Cad. 131, Harbiye. The airport is accessible by metro; however, a taxi Sabiha Ökçen Airport: International Terminal Lost Avea Directory, 11855. Where would you recommend for I especially love the informal restaurants T: 0212 231 3450. is recommended, particularly if carrying heavy Luggage Office T: 0216 588 8802. Domestic Vodafone Directory 11842. , luggage. Regular shuttle buses run by ground Terminal Lost Luggage Office T: 0216 588 8650. shopping? in Kandilli and Kuzguncuk on the shores of Same Area Calls, just the 7 digit number. KLM services provider Havataş approx every 30 mins For clothes, I send my male guests to La the Bosphorus. I also love the Beşiktaş Fish Area Codes in İstanbul, Europen Side: 212, www.klm.com.tr. Emirhan Cad. 145, Atakule A Blok depart to and from Taksim, stopping at Aksaray, Misura where they can have clothes made Market, and go there with friends as often Asian Side: 216. K:14, Dikilitaş, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 310 1900. Etiler and Bakırköy. Check for schedule. AIRPORT TRANSFER to order; and for women I recommend as I can. From Area to Area, 0+area code+number Lufthansa Havaş Call Center T: 0212 444 0487. Havataş: Offers shuttle services to and from the International, 0+0+ country code+area www.lufthansa.com.tr. Atatürk Airport International the wonderful designs at Arzu Kaprol. If www.havas.com.tr. airport every half hour between Atatürk Airport- code+number. Terminal, Yeşilköy. T: 0212 354 8888. they’re interested in jewellery, I send them Atatürk Airport Enq T: 0212 463 3000. Taksim and Sabiha Gökcen Airport-Kadıköy / to Boybeyi and for carpets, Eğinci Halı and Pegasus Airlines www.ataturkairport.com. Sabiha Gökcen Airport-Taksim. Hereke Halı are the shops I trust the most. airLINEs www.flypgs.com. T: 0212 444 0737. LOST LUGGAGE OFFICE www.havatas.com.tr. T: 444 44 36. Atatürk Airport: TAV-(International and Domestic How about restaurants in İstanbul? Air France Singapore Airlines www.airfrance.com.tr. www.singaporeair.com. EGS Business Park Plazaları Terminals Lost Luggage Office) T: 0212 465 3000. For an elegant dining experience I’d Emirhan Cad. 145 Atakule A Blok Dikilitaş, Beşiktaş. B2, K:8, 278, Yeşilköy. T: 0212 463 1800. Sabiha Gökçen Airport GETTING AROUND recommend Frankie, Vogue and Sunset. T: 0212 310 1919. Turkish Airlines (THY) Located on the Asian side, Sabiha Gökçen Airport Buses If they want to try Turkish cuisine, then Anadolu Jet www.turkishairlines.com. Cumhuriyet Cad. is 40km from Kadıköy, 12km from Pendik and 50km The City buses and Bus Rapid Transit systems are Matbah, Asitane and Borsa are great www.anadolujet.com.tr. Cumhuriyet Cad. Gezidükkanları 7, Taksim. T: 0212 444 0849. from Taksim. A smaller airport, this has some run by the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality.

58 WHERE İstanbul I AUGUST 2014 AUGUST 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 59 ESSENTIALS ESSENTIALS

TRAIN HOURS T: 0212 444 9977. with its fine decor and food service. Brunch, lunch TOURISM polıce Greece, www.greekembassy.org.tr. Turnacıbacı Ayrılık Çeşmesi-Kazlıçeşme and dinner served during the tours. Sok. 32, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 393 8290. Ayrılık Çeşmesi-Kazlıçeşme 6am-12am. Rentel Yerebatan Cad. 6, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 326 1100 ext. 8272. Kazlıçeşme-Ayrılık Çeşmesi 6am-11:40pm. Providing a top-notch car rental service to T: 0212 527 4503. Germany, www.germanembassyank.com. Sea Taxis İstanbul’s visitors with its expert rental staff. İsmet İnönü Cad. 16/18, Gümüşsuyu. Ayrılık Çeşmesi-Kazlıçeşme Dependable, well-equipped luxury car fleet, 6am-7am (10 min) www.deniztaksi.com.tr. T: 0212 444 4498. V.I.P. T: 0212 334 6100. chauffeured vehicles, rental and VIP transfer 7am-10am(7min) Su Samuru services, with efficient, quality service. , www.indembassy.org.tr. Cumhuriyet Cad. 10am-4pm (10min) BOSPHORUS TOURS With their specially built boats and a well-trained www.rentel.com.tr. Irmak Cad. Kaşkaval Sok. 21, 18/7, Dörtler Apt. Elmadağ. T: 0212 296 2131. 4pm-8pm (7min) team of captains, this sea taxi gives 24-hour service Beyoğlu. T: 0212 444 1 434 Private Bosphorus Yacht Tours 8pm-12am (10min) year round. www.su-samuru.com. These VIP yachts will give you a Bosphorus Italy, www.consistanbul.esteri.it. Boğazkesen experience like no other. Recommended by Cad. Tom Tom Kaptan Sok. 15, Tophane, Beyoğlu. FEES T: 0533 777 7718. sıghtseeıng Istanbul’s finest hotels including the Swiss Hotel, T: 0212 252 5437. İstanbul Kart/Akbil electronic ticket Four Seasons, The Ritz Carlton and more, our and all others: Big Bus Tours Japan, Büyükdere Cad. 209, Tekfen Tower K:10, 4. Payment is with the İstanbul Kart – an electronic HELI SERVICES yachts will give you all the comforts of a 5-star Full rate: 2,15 TL Student: 1,10 TL Disabled, Big Bus Tours provides the perfect introduction Levent. T: 0212 317 4600. card purchased for a deposit fee at sales points. 65 Years and over: Free of Charge Kaan Air to İstanbul, a city that straddles two continents: hotel as you enjoy the beauty of the Bosphorus. A special occasion in one of our yachts will go Valid on buses, trams, metro and ferries, it is easily Transfer Fees: Kaan Air offers helicopter sales, rentals, VIP Europe and Asia. This carefully designed tour Korea, Kaptanpaşa Mah. Piyale Paşa Bulvarı, charged at machines located in many stations, Full rate: (1st transfer) 1,60 TL transportation and air taxi services. takes people to the major landmarks and historic from special to unforgettable. Orta Doğu Plaza K:19, Okmeydanı, Şişli. and provides half-price transfers. (2nd transfer) 1,50 TL Kemerburgaz Cad. Suvatlar Sok. 1, Ayazağa . sites. www.bigbustours.com. www.kiraliktekneler.com. Halil Rıfat Paşa Mah. T: 0212 368 8398. Ticket prices vary according to distance. (3rd, 4th and 5th transfers) 1,30TL T: 0532 111 9992 - 93. www.kaanair.com Bindirdirek Mah. Dostluk Yurdu Sok. Yeşil Apt. 1/5, Ertan Sok. İstanbul Apt. No: 26 / 1-3 Şişli Malaysia, Halaskargazi Cad. 150, Çankaya Apt. www.iett.gov.tr. Student: (1st transfer) 0,45TL, Sultanahmet. T:0212 283 1396. T: 0212 251 5272. K:4, D:7, Şişli. T: 0212 247 1728. Information Line T: 0800 211 6068, (2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th transfers) 0,45TL offıce space rental Headquarters T: 0212 245 0720. SPECIAL TOURS YACHT Russia, www.turkey.mid.ru. İstiklal Cad. 219, Taxis Sürmeli Business Floor & Lounge Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 5101. Ferries The bright yellow taxis are available around the Offers guests a comfortable working environment İstanbul Walks M/Y Halas 71 City ferries operate out from Sirkeci, Eminönü clock, and are best hailed on the street. It is best with breakfast and food service throughout the The only travel agency which organises more The M/Y Halas, featuring luxury yacht service and Saudi Arabia, Konaklar Mah. Çamlık Cad. and Karaköy piers all day long to the Bosphorus, to avoid taxis waiting outside major tourist venues day, a 360° panoramic view of İstanbul, wireless than 40 İstanbul tours in English, inc the Istanbul rich decor from Haremlique, offers personalized Akasyalı Sok. 6, 4. Levent. T: 0212 281 9140. the Asian side, and Princess Islands. and hotels. Fares should always run on the meter, internet, computers, and a meeting room free of Classic, Bosphorus, Dolmabahçe Palace, the food service all day long. www.myhalas.com. Visit www.sehirhatlari.com.tr. for the latest with the same tariff now for both day and night. charge for one hour. Daily 7am-11pm. Jewish Quarter, Blue Mosque Area, Bosphorus Tokmak Burnu, İstinye. T: 0549 334 2104. South Africa, www.southafrica.org.tr. updated timetables. T: 0212 444 1851. Ensure the meter is running as soon as you get in, www.sürmelihotels.com. Prof. Dr. Bülent Tarcan Cruise, Walk in Asia and much more. Alarko Holding A.Ş. Muallim Naci Cad. 69, and refuse to take a journey where the driver tries Sok. 3, Gayrettepe. T: 0212 272 1161. www.istanbulwalks.com. Ortaköy. T: 0212 227 5200. Metro consulates to agree a price in advance. Şifahamamı Sok. 1, K:1, Sultanahmet. Spain, Karanfil Aralığı Sok. 16, 1. Levent. The underground railway in Istanbul has 4 These are a safe mode of transport day and night. Windowist T: 0212 516 6300-01. Argentina, Süzer Plaza, Askerocağı Cad. 9, K: 16, European lines (3 in service, all will be extended; Windowist raises the bar on the instant office T: 0212 270 7410. 1 under construction); 2 Asian lines (1 in service, Train concept with full office services 24/7, offering 34367, Elmadağ, Şişli. T: 0212 243 1170. Switzerland, Büyükdere Cad. 173, 1. Levent will be extended; 1 under construction), with 65 SİRKECİ TRAIN STATION smart, innovative solutions in İstanbul’s financial TOURISM , Sümbül Sok. 17/1, Levent. Plaza A Blok K:3, Levent. T: 0212 283 1282. stations inservice. www.istanbul-ulasim.com.tr. and residential centre of Maslak. TCDD station located on the European side. City Tourim and Culture Directorate T: 0212 325 8042. Visitors may buy tickers at the counter here for all www.windowist.com. Eski Büyükdere Cad. 26, Maslak. United Arab Emirates, M1-Aksaray-Atatürk International Airport www.istanbulkulturturizm.gov.tr. Main Office, Alay T: 0212 214 7000. M1A: Aksaray, Emniyet/Fatih, Ulubatlı/Topkapı, destinations to Europe and elsewhere in Turkey. Köşkü, Gülhane Parkı içi, Eminönü. China, www.chinaembassy.org.tr. Kireçburnu www.uaeconsulate.com.tr. Bayrampaşa-Maltepe, Sağmacılar, Kartaltepe/ Trains to anatolian Turkey depart from Haydarpaşa T: 0212 528 6821. Branch, At Meydanı 31, Mah. Mısırlı Cad. Memduhpaşa Yalısı 6/8, Sarıyer. Büyükdere Cad. Meşeli Sok. 11, 4. Levent. T: 0212 317 9257. Kocatepe, Otogar, Esenler, Terazidere, station near Kadıköy on the asian side. Private İstanbul Sultanahmet. T: 0212 518 1800. T: 0212 299 2634. Davutpaşa/Yıldız Teknik Üniversitesi, Merter, For enquiries, www.tcdd.gov.tr. T: 0212 527 0050. Tourism Information Offices Egypt, Konaklar Mah. Akasyalı Sok. 26, 4. Levent. United Kingdom, www.britishembassy.org.tr. Zeytinburnu, Bakırköy-İncirli, Bahçelievler, Ataköy- Seabuses Tours Sultanahmet, At Meydanı, T: 0212 5181802 - T: 0212 324 2133. Meşrutiyet Cad. 34, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu. Şirinevler, Yenibosna, DTM/İstanbul Fair Center, Seabuses operate on 19 lines, and serve 32 points. İstanbul Tour Studio 0212 5187454. Taksim, Hilton Hotel entrance, T: 0212 334 6400. Airport Finland, Yeni Çamlık Cad. Ayaz Sok. 5, 4. Levent. www.ido.com.tr. T: 0212 444 4436. Bringing new meaning to quality in city tours and Elmadağ, Taksim. T: 0212 233 0592. T: 0212 283 5737. USA, www.istanbul.usconsulate.gov. M1B:Esenler, Menderes, Üçyüzlü, Bağcılar, Kirazlı tour guides, the skilled İstanbul Tour Studio team Yeşilköy, Atatürk Airport, Yeşilköy. FAST FERRY LINES İstinye Mah. Kaplıcalar Mevkii 2, İstinye. takes a fresh, innovative approach to tourism with T: 0212 4653151 - 0212 4653547. M2 -Yenikapı-Hacıosman Yenikapı-Bursa-Yenikapı • Yenikapı-Bandırma- France, www.consulfrance-istanbul.org. İstiklal T: 0212 335 9000. Yenikapı, Vezneciler, Haliç, Şişhane, Taksim, Yenikapı • Yenikapı-Yalova-Yenikapı • Pendik- intriguing ways to see the city. Some of the most Cad. 8, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 334 8730. popular choices are its photography, cuisine, Osmanbey, Şişli/Mecidiyeköy, Gayrettepe, Levent, Yalova-Pendik. cycling, sailboat and jewellery workshop tours. 4.Levent, Sanayi, İTÜ Ayazağa, Atatürk Oto Sanayi, INTER-CITY SEABUS LINES Where İstanbul readers are entitled to a 10% Darüşşafaka, Hacıosman Bosphorus Line: Beşiktaş-Kadıköy discount with the special Z_VDUPO coupon.

M3-Başakşehir PRINCES’ISLANDS SEABUS LINES www.istanbultourstudio.com Halaskargazi Cad. 3, Metrokent, Başak Konutları, Siteler, Turgut Özal, Kabataş-Kınalı-Burgaz-Heybeli-Büyükada- K: 6 Harbiye. T: 0533 355 3049 İkitelli, Sanayi, Olimpiyat Ziya Gökalp Mah, İstoç, Bostancı. Mahmutbey, Yeni Mahalle, Kirazlı RENT A CAR TRAMS AND FUNICULARS BOSPHORUS TOURS Istanbul is served by three separate tramway Airport Tours systems. The Asian side has a heritage tramline, Half- and full-day Bosphorus and Princes’ Islands www.airport-tours.com. Atatürk Airport whereas the European side has both a heritage Tours. International Terminal, Yeşilköy. T: 0212 465 4550. tramline and a modern tram system. Istanbul is İdo Nostalgic Bosphorus Tours Avis also served by two underground funicular rail- • Eminönü Dep. 10:35am - 1:35pm • Beşiktaş Dep. www.avis.com.tr. T: 444 2847. ways, of very different ages and styles. 10:50am - 1:50pm • Anadolu Kavağı Dep. 3pm - We let our customers enjoy the beauty of the and customer satisfaction with our unparalleled MARMARAY 5pmT: 444 44 36. Budget Bosphorus to the fullest. We work with Turkey’s VIP Bosphorus Tour. In short, we love our work. Marmaray is a railway project connecting www.budget.com.tr. T: 444 4722. Bosphorus Tours By Private Boats elite agencies and companies as well as İstanbul’s We know that the Bosphorus is worth seeing and Istanbul’s European and Asian rail systems via a 76 Half-day tours on private boats. Historical venues Eurocity Rent A Car five-star hotels. Our portfolio also includes experiencing. The full beauty of the Bosphorus is km tube tunnel from underneath the Bosphorus. such as the Çırağan Palace and Beylerbeyi Palace www.eurocityrentacar.com. Atatürk Airport ultra-luxury yachts to meet our customers’ needs. hidden in the details, and the details are hidden in Being the deepest constructed tunnel in Europe, may also be included in the programme. International Arrivals Terminal, Yeşilköy. Den Den Yachts guarantees the finest conditions Den Den Yachts. Marmaray currently has 5 stations between www.plantours.com. T: 0212 234 7777. T: 0212 603 6266 - 68. Ayrılık Çeşmesi and Kazlıçeşme, of which 3 of them are below the surface. The stations are: Swissôtel Interlimousine Halil Rıfat Paşa Mah. Ertan Sok. İstanbul Apt. No: 26 / 1-3 Şişli Tel: +90212 251 52 72 Mobile: +90533 447 10 47 Ayrılık Çeşmesi, Üsküdar, Yenikapı, Sirkeci and Owned by the hotel, The İstanbul, extends the www.interlimousine.com.tr. Inter Kat Otoparkı, www.kiraliktekneler.com • [email protected] • [email protected] Kazlıçeşme www.marmaray.gov.tr elegance of Swissôtel to the Bosphorus as well Cemal Reşit Rey Konser Salonu Altı, Harbiye.

60 WHERE İstanbul I AUGUST 2014 AUGUST 2014 I İstanbUl WHERE 61 Central Istanbul Map

T: +90212 251 52 72 www.kiraliktekneler.com [email protected] [email protected] ∆ PRIVATE YACHT RENTAL [ WHERe IN Ista nbul] My Perfect Day

Which historic İstanbul monuments Which İstanbul nightspot do you go most impress you the most? often? I’m most impressed by the Basilica Cistern I’ve been going to Reina since it opened; it’s and Topkapı Palace; there you can experience the only place where I always love the music both Byzantine and Ottoman history. Both and atmosphere, and always feel at ease. have a special magic that takes us out of our everyday world.

How about fish restaurants? İstanbul has so many, do you have a favourite? What is your favourite restaurant for Papalina in Ataköy is my first choice, because Ottoman cuisine? it’s so quiet. I love their salad with jumbo Hünkar Restaurant in Nişantaşı is definitely my shrimp, onions and balsamic . My next favourite; it serves wonderful Turkish cuisine, choice would be Sur Balık in Arnavutköy. and their olive oil dishes and Hünkar Beğendi are wonderful. Where do you most like to shop? I prefer Akmerkez for shopping, and my How about the arts – any favourite favourite brands are Damat & Tween, museums or galleries? Dolce & Gabbana and Vakkorama. Because of my profession, I’m a frequent visitor to the Naval Museum (Deniz Müzesi). Tamer I also love the exhibitions at İstanbul Modern. Köseoğlu (CEO, Den&Den Yachtst) Since 2005, Tamer Köseoğlu has been the CEO of Den&Den Denizcilik, providing Bosphorus cruises and VIP services to companies, hotels and agencies.

What about İstanbul’s neighbourhoods? İstanbul has a character that is both frenetic and relaxing; this is most obvious along the coast. The seaside neighbourhoods of Kuruçeşme, Bebek, Rumelihisarı, Kanlıca and Çengelköy are lovely places where I could go any hour of the day.

How do you spend your weekends in the city? I love to take a boat on the Bosphorus or to the Islands; or spend a calm day with good music. It’s a passion that relaxes and refreshes me.

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