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a guidebookPskov to historic city centre

This publication has been produced with the financial support of Latvia- Cross-Border Cooperation Programme 2014-2020. Its contents are the sole responsibility of City Administration and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Programme, Programme participating countries Latvia and Russia, alongside with the European Union.

1 A specialof russian city history The ancient city of Pskov, located at the confluence of the and the 16 Rivers, was first mentioned in the “Tale of Bygone Years” under the year 903. But its PSKOV history goes much further and IS MOTHER LAND dates back about 2000 years OF PRINCESS OLGA, according to archaeological the first Christian ruler data. of Rus and its first saint. Olga, during whose reign a fortified settlement turned into a town, is considered the founder and the patron saint of Pskov.

Once, standing on the left bank of the Velikaya River, princess Olga saw the three rays of light 43 crossed at one spot on a high cliff covered with a forest and prophesied a big and glorious town to be founded there.

A smithed cross and Olginskaya chapel at the place from where princess Olga saw the heavenly sign according to the legend.

2 The seal of Pskov Hospodariat

Being initially the tribal centre of “krivichi” in the 10th – THE (ASSEMBLY) beginning of the 12th centuries, SQUARE Pskov was a part of Old Russian is the centre of political life state and then of Novgorod of Pskov of the 13th – 14th land. In 1348 it became the centuries. The Veche, a popular capital of Pskov Veche republic. assembly of the period of Pskov In 1510 it was incorporated republic that dealt with the into the Grand Principality Veche in Pskov. most important state matters, of . By Viktor Vasnetsov gathered here.

Pskov Veche republic (Pskov Hospodariat) – a unique medieval state formation on the territory of Rus. The history of Russian democracy originates in Novgorod and THE ARCHITECTURAL MODEL OF THE Pskov republics. “PSKOV – THE HOME OF THE HOLY TRINITY” in the form of the 15th century, the heyday period of the city.

We are admiring This city is so spacious, that Pskov. God, what a its circumference embraces Up until the beginning great city! several cities, and in of the 18th century Like Paris!... Germany Pskov was one of the there is no city the Roman Catholic biggest towns of Russia priest Piotrovsky, equal to Pskov. a personal secretary and . of Stephen Bathory, 1581. Livonian chronicles, 13th century

3 The Home of the

THE CATHEDRAL PskovHoly was founded as the Home 2 Trinity of the Holy Trinity. It was here OF THE HOLY TRINITY The height in the 10th century where the is the heart of Pskov and its of the Trinity first Orthodox church in Rus main symbol. The domes of Cathedral is 78 was built. Until the 14th century the Cathedral floating high metres and it was the only church devoted above the city are visible from its iconostasis to the Holy Trinity. anywhere in the city. is 42 metres high.

4 THE RELIQUARY WITH THE CHIRSKAYA ICON RELICS OF THE PSKOV SAINTS: OF THE MOTHER OF GOD A UNIQUE SEVEN-TIERED the blessed showed the miracle of ICONOSTASIS Vsevolod-Gabriel and lacrimation during the of the Trinity Cathedral of the Dovmont-Timothy, the martyr pestilence in 1420 and is 17th century is a rare example Ioasaph Snyatogorsky and the venerated by the Pskovites for of the “Flemish carving.” fool –for-Christ Nikolai of Pskov. making them free of the disease.

Mosaic icon-over-the-gates of the Pskov Kremlin THE NAME OF THE SAINT “The Old Testament Trinity.” VSEVOLOD-GABRIEL sketched by E. Klimov is connected with the building THE PSKOVO-POKROVSKAYA of the first stone church of the ICON OF THE MOTHER OF GOD Holy Trinity, construction of OF THE 16TH CENTURY the Velikiye (Great) Gates and is unique not only for its subject, building of the Annunciation showing the events of the period There are 40 functional church. The legends have of Pskov siege by the troops churches within the preserved many examples of of the Polish king Stephen boundaries of modern his assistance and patronage Bathory in 1581-1582, but also Pskov. at the turning points of the for depicting a detailed plan of military history of the city. Pskov in it.

5 The fortress-city

Pskov fortress is one of the mightiest and most impregnable medieval fortresses of Europe. Being the only of its kind, it had five rings of defence, three of which have been preserved up to the present day.

THE KROM (KREMLIN) 1 is the heart of Pskov fortress, the historic and architectural as well as city-planning centre of Pskov.

THE POKROVSKAYA 26 (INTERCESSION) TOWER is the mightiest Pskov tower and one of the largest ones in Europe. It is included into fortification system of the THE PERSI Okolny (outer) Town of the – is the “chest” of the Pskov 15th – 16th centuries – the Kremlin, its southern assault wall. fifth ring of defence of Pskov.

The area of the Pskov fortress is 215 ha, the length of fortress walls is 9,5 km. The fortress had about 40 towers and 14 gates

6 THE DOVMONT TOWN 8 is a unique architectural complex that had no analogues in Rus. It was constructed as an added defence line of Krom in 1270-1280 during the period of princedom of Dovmont. It used to be the administrative and spiritual centre of Pskov land of the 14th-15th centuries.

41 9

On the premises in Dovmont town in THE PLOSKAYA AND VYSOKAYA the 12th – 14th centuries there were (FLAT AND HIGH) TOWERS more than 20 religious and civil stone constructions. The foundations of half in the ancient time were connected by a wall with the of them can be seen nowadays. waterway openings that were blocked by the movable lattice gates to protect the entrance to the Pskova River.

PETER’S BASTIONS, 49 constructed during the beginning of the , became the “sixth line” of Pskov fortifications. It is one of the largest fortifications of the kind, an example of military engineering of the beginning of the 18th century.

The remains of Svinorsky bastion with the monument on the occasion of 300th anniversary of defence of Pskov against the troops of Stephen Bathory located on it.

7 Garden Suare of the Fallen Fighters Kunetskaya st. Grahdanskaya st.

Kuopio Park Letniy Garden 35 (Finskiy park) La Tolstogo st. Serdloa st. 50 Oktyabrskiy prosp. Belinskogo st. Gogolya st. Stakhanoskaya st. Ippodromnaya st. 34 Botanic Garden Pionerskaya st. 29 Serdloa st. Jana Fabritsiusa st. Voroskogo st. Nekrasoa st. Sportinaya st. Atoaodskaya st. Grahdanskaya st.

12 Gertsena st.

Pskoa Rier Pskoa 15 12 Kutuosky Pobedy Pushkinа st.garden suare 51 Oktyabrskiy prosp. suare

Alley of Heroes

14 lane lane 20 Komsomolskiy 33 Mueynuy K. Marksa st. Gertsena st. 28 49 Truda st. 19 Olega 21 27 Kosheogo st. Garden suare LeninаOktyabrskaya st. Detsky 26 park 18 Kalinina st. Volkoa st. of the people suare 24 Pskoa Rier in loe 16 25 12 Troitskiy 30 12 37 Lenina 23

Shkolnaya st. bridge 13 17 st. Georgieskaya suare 22

31 Soetskaya st. 12 st. Detskaya

Embankment of the Velikaya Rier 50th of of October of Bridge

38 Garden Suare anniersary 32 st. Profsoyunaya 5 of twin cities 12 Peromayskaya st. 8 10 48 7 11 6 3 39 1 Velikaya Rier Dendropark Zastennaya st. 4 2 46

L. Poemskogo st. bridge Olginskaya embankment Krasnoarmeyskaya st. 40 9 Olginskiy 41 43 45 Rier 36 Velikaya 44

Obseration Kremlin deck Maksima Gorkogo st. The Okolny city Suare Mirnaya st. The Okolny city (Zapskoie) Pier of the 60th OUTSIDE the Okolny city anniersary Yubileynaya st.

(Outer city) Cycle lane 47

of the October st. Lagernaya

Krasnoarmeyskaya st. Krasnoarmeyskaya

42 st. Kommunalnaya

Rihskiy prosp. Rihskiy Rosa Luxemburg st. Luxemburg Rosa Paromenskaya st. Paromenskaya Reolution

1 Pskov Kremlin Ensemble, 9th – 17th centuries, Kremlin 13 Church of Archangels Michael and Gabriel, Oktyabrskiy prospect, 9 2 Holy Trinity Cathedral with Bell Tower, 14th – 17th centuries, Sovetskaya street, 18 21 Menshikovs’ Chambers, 17th century, 17th century, 1830, Kremlin 14 Church of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul “from Bui”, Sovetskaya street 50, 50-a 3 Smerdja Tower restored in the 19th century, Kremlin, 12 16th century, K. Marksa street, 2 22 Bekleshov’s Manor House (The first building 4 Kutekroma Tower (“Kutniy Koster”), 15th century, Kremlin, 16 15 Offices (Cadet Corps), end of the 18th – middle 19th, 20th of the Pskov provincial gymnasium), 17th – 19th centuries, 5 Sredniaya Tower (Middle) restored in the 20th century, Kremlin centuries, Nekrasova street, 23 Georgievskaya street, 4 6 Troitskaya Tower (Chasovaya) restored 16 Monument to the Great Equal-to-the-Apostles 23 Church of St. George from Vzvoz, 1494, in the 20th century, Kremlin Princess Olga 2003, Oktyabrskaya square Georgievskaya street 1 7 Administrative Chamber, 1695, Kremlin, 4 17 St. Nicholas Church at “Usokha” (Drained place), 1536, 24 Church of the Assumption at Polonische, 1811, 8 Dovmont’s Town Sovetskaya street, 19 Georgievskaya street 3-а 9 Ploskaya (Flat) Tower, 14th – 19th centuries, Kremlin, 4 18 Church of St. Basil the Great On the Hill, 16th century, 25 Intercession and the Nativity of the Mother of God Church 10 Holy Gates Tower restored in the 20th century, Dovmont’s Town Oktyabrskiy prospect, 5 at Prolom, 16th century, Sverdlova street, 1 11 Vlasjevskaya Tower restored in the 20th century, Kremlin, 7 19 Sculptural composition “Skobar” (Hardwareman), 2014, 26 Pokrovskaya Tower, 16th century, Embankment 12 Сomplex of fortifications of the Okolny (Outer) Detsky park of the Velikaya River, Sovetskaya street , 3 City:8 the fortress walls of the 16th – 17th centuries 20 Church of Anastasia the Roman at Kuznetsy, 1539, 27 Church of Joachim and Anna, 16th century, Kalinina street, 18 Garden Suare of the Fallen Fighters Kunetskaya st. Grahdanskaya st.

Kuopio Park Letniy Garden 35 (Finskiy park) La Tolstogo st. Serdloa st. 50 Oktyabrskiy prosp. Belinskogo st. Gogolya st. Stakhanoskaya st. Ippodromnaya st. 34 Botanic Garden Pionerskaya st. 29 Serdloa st. Jana Fabritsiusa st. Voroskogo st. Nekrasoa st. Sportinaya st. Atoaodskaya st. Grahdanskaya st.

12 Gertsena st.

Pskoa Rier Pskoa 15 12 Kutuosky Pobedy Pushkinа st.garden suare 51 Oktyabrskiy prosp. suare

Alley of Heroes

14 lane lane 20 Komsomolskiy 33 Mueynuy K. Marksa st. Gertsena st. 28 49 Truda st. 19 Olega 21 27 Kosheogo st. Garden suare LeninаOktyabrskaya st. Detsky 26 park 18 Kalinina st. Volkoa st. of the people suare 24 Pskoa Rier in loe 16 25 12 Troitskiy 30 12 37 Lenina 23

Shkolnaya st. bridge 13 17 st. Georgieskaya suare 22

31 Soetskaya st. 12 st. Detskaya

Embankment of the Velikaya Rier 50th of of October of Bridge

38 Garden Suare anniersary 32 st. Profsoyunaya 5 of twin cities 12 Peromayskaya st. 8 10 48 7 11 6 3 39 1 Velikaya Rier Dendropark Zastennaya st. 4 2 46

L. Poemskogo st. bridge Olginskaya embankment Krasnoarmeyskaya st. 40 9 Olginskiy 41 43 45 Rier 36 Velikaya 44

Obseration Kremlin deck Maksima Gorkogo st. The Okolny city Suare Mirnaya st. The Okolny city (Zapskoie) Pier of the 60th OUTSIDE the Okolny city anniersary Yubileynaya st.

(Outer city) Cycle lane 47

of the October st. Lagernaya

Krasnoarmeyskaya st. Krasnoarmeyskaya

42 st. Kommunalnaya

Rihskiy prosp. Rihskiy Rosa Luxemburg st. Luxemburg Rosa Paromenskaya st. Paromenskaya Reolution

28 Pskov- Joint Museum-Preserve (The Pogankin`s Sovetskaya Embankment, L. Pozemskogo street, 46 at Paromenye, with the Bell Tower, 1521, Rizhskiy prospect, 3 Chambers) the main building, Nekrasova street ,7 37 Church of Elijah the Prophet at the Wet Meadow, 1677, 45 Chapel of St. Anastasia, 1910 – 1911, 29 Church of Intercession of the Holy Mother of God at Torg Volkova street, 9-а Olginskaya embankment, 5-b (Market place), 17th century, K. Marksa street, 36 38 Postnikovs’ Chambers, (“Bag”), 17th century, 46 Church of St. Clement, the Pope and Peter Aleksandriysky, 30 Theological Seminary Building, 1st half of the 18th – O. Koshevogo street, 2 16th century, Olginskaya embankment, 16 early 19th centuries, Sovetskaya street, 21 39 Church of the Resurrection at Stadische, 1532, 47 Church of , 1908, Mirnaya street, 1 31 Church of Cosmas and Damian at “Primostje” (At the bridge), Nabat street, 4-a 48 Ensemble of the Spaso-Mirozhsky Monastery. 1463 – 17th centuries, L. Pozemskogo street, 7 40 Church of St. Varlaam of Khutyn at Zvannitca, 1495, The Cathedral of the Transfiguration of Our Saviour, 32 Meyer Rope Factory, early 20th century, L. Pozemskogo street, 22 L. Pozemskogo street, 53 12th century, Mirozhskaya embankment, 2 33 Church of Epiphany in Zapskovie, 1496, 41 Vysokaya Tower (Tall), 16th century, 49 Monument in honor of the 300th anniversary of the heroic Gertsena street, 7 Sovetskaya embankment defense of Pskov from the troops of Stephen Batory in 1581, 34 Church of Cosmas and Damian at Gremyachaya hill, 42 Cathedral of John the Baptist of the Ivanovsky Monastery, 1881, Pobedy square 16th century, Gremyachaya street, 7-а 12th century, Gorkogo street, 1-a 50 Monument “Pushkin and a Countrywoman”, 1983, 35 Gremyachaya Tower, 16th century, Gremyachaya street 43 Olginskaya Chapel, 2000, Olginskaya embankment, 4-a “Letniy garden” square 36 Varlaamovskaya Tower, 16th century, 44 Church of the Assumption of the Mother of God 51 Stela “The ”, 2010, Pobedy square9 A city of military glory For 800 years Pskov has been the The first units stopped centre of defence of the north-west here the Keiser troops on their of Russia against foreign invaders. way to Petrograd in February Ambitious plans of famous western 1918. During the years of the military commanders – Polish king Great Patriotic War Pskov was Stephen Bathory and Swedish king transformed into a powerful Gustav Adolf – crashed on the walls defensive post. Unfadable of Pskov fortress, while Karl XII act of courage of the Pskov did not even dare to storm the town. paratroopers of the 6th troop took its place in the history of Russia.

Pskov successfully stood 26 sieges. The longest one – in 1581-1582 during the – lasted 5,5 months while the famous “Pskovskoye The by the Polish sidenje” (Pskov siege) – the king Stephen Bathory in 1581. By Karl Brullov (1839-1843) episode of 1615 of the Russian- Swedish War – 2,5 months.

THE MONUMENT THE SWORD OF PRINCE DOVMONT “” is one of the main Pskov sacred commemorating the victory objects, a symbol of independence of Alexander Nevsky over and invincibility of ancient Pskov. It the Livonian knights on the belonged to the Pskov prince, who ice of Chudskoye lake on became a legend during his lifetime, 5 April, 1242. It was erected a talented military leader, who had on Sokolikha hill on the way not a single defeat during his 33 of the Russian troops to the years of princedom. battle place.

10 “THE VARLAAMOVSKY CORNER” 36 is the fortification complex of the Okolny (outer) town at the turn of the 15th and 16th centuries connected with the defence of Pskov against the troops of Swedish king Gustav Adolf in 1615. In ancient times there was a fortress and northern gates. The Varlaamovsky corner

The course of the long Livonian War was decided under the fortress walls of the Pokrovsky corner of the Okolny (outer) town.

It is true that Pskov… shielded Russia from the greatest danger and the memory of it will not be obliterated out of our history until we lose our name and love for our motherland. Nikolai Karamzin

The monument commemorating the first victory of the Red Army in 1918.

THE BATTLE NEAR PSKOV in 1918 laid foundation for forming the Red Army and celebrating of the Soviet Army Day – nowadays the “Defender’s Day” holiday.

“CANOPY” 51 THE TITLE “THE CITY OF MILITARY GLORY” is the monument to the 6th troop. was awarded to Pskov in 2009.

11 The city of medieval

Pskov – is a city with a distinctive outlook,culture one of the medieval centres of stone architecture, monumental and icon-painting that gave the world unique monuments THE SNETOGORSKY MONASTERY of cultural heritage. was founded in the end of the 13th century by the Pskov prince Dovmont. Its church of the Nativity of the Mother of God was built in 1311 in the image of the Mirozhsky monastery and was frescoed two years later THE FRESCOES OF THE CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY 10 Pskov churches are OF THE MOTHER OF GOD on the Unesco’s World Heritage List. are the only preserved work of art of the Old Russian monumental painting of the 1st half of the 14th century and an outstanding example of the Pskov School of Painting.

THE CATHEDRAL OF THE TRANSFIGURATION 48 OF OUR SAVIOR OF THE 12TH CENTURY in the Mirozhsky monastery is a cross-domed church, having a unique architectural type for the Old Russian art. It is one of the best examples of of the pre- Mongol period. UNIQUE MIROZHA FRESCOES were created presumably by the Greek masters and are one of a kind in the whole world in terms of the area covered with Mirozha frescoes painting and the degree of preservation.

12 THE CHURCH OF ST. BASIL THE GREAT ON THE HILL 18 of the 15th-16th centuries with the characteristic features of the Pskov church.

There are more than 300 architectural monuments of the 12th – 20th centuries preserved in Pskov. In terms of 33 The Church of Epiphany quantity and variety of in Zapskovie, 15th century the monuments of civil architecture Pskov has Belfries and a famous Pskov ADMINISTRATIVE no equals among Russian 7 “necklace” (a decorative CHAMBER cities. About 40 of them element) “porebrik – – the central body have been preserved begounets - porebrik” – is a of Pskov government up to the present day. characteristic feature of Pskov in the 17th century. masters.

ONE OF THE MAIN SACRED OBJECTS OF PSKOV – THE ICON OF MIROZHSKAYA MOTHER OF GOD (the second half of the 16th century, a copy of the icon of the 13th century) with the figures of afore standing saint prince Dovmont (Timothy) and his wife princess Maria (Martha in monasticism), also hohored as a saint, the granddaughter of Alexander Nevsky.

A collection of Old Russian painting of the Pskovo-Izborsky united museum-preserve counts more than 700 icons.

13 A medieval centre of trade and crafts The skill of Pskov stone masons, smiths, smelters, shoe-makers, fishermen and potters has been long known far beyond the town boundaries.

THE FAMOUS PSKOV SNETOK (SMELT), a small fish of the smelt broodline, is a local gastronomic brand.

Pskov of the period of “Denga Pskovskaya independent veche republic had 10 (Pskov coin)” its own money that were coined with the image at the Pskov mint from 1425 till of prince Dovmont THE RYBNITSKAYA TOWER 1510. of the Pskov Kremlin derived Pskov played an important role in the trade process of Russian land its name from the Rybny Torg with the West as a leading partner of the . (Fish market) located on the bank of the Pskova River.

“GOLD EMBANKMENT” was named the “German bank”, 19 because the Germans had residence there. ACCORDING TO THE LEGEND the Pskovites got the nickname “skobary” courtesy of Peter I, who, possessing exceptional By the XVII century there strength, didn’t manage PSKOV were more than 40 kinds to unbend a timber dog made became home for the Hansa of crafts in Pskov. by the skilled Pskov smiths. Days of the New Age in 2019.

14 Mysterious city – heavenly and underground

ONE OF THE MOST MYSTERIOUS PERSONAGES IN PSKOV HISTORY IS NICHOLA SALOS, who had been fool-for-Christ for more than 30 years. In 1570 he went up against tzar himself and by his fearless patronage saved Pskov from massacre. 44 It is believed that even nowadays fool-for-Christ Nicholai protects the city. Pskov is safeguarded by its heavenly patrons and THE POGANKIN CHAMBERS 28 according to the legends it will is one of the most outstanding be standing until the pigeon monuments of Russian civil architecture at the cross of the church of of the 17th century. Inside a massive Dormition at Paromenje (by the stone building there is a number of secret ferry) will be sitting there. rooms and passages, concealed niches An underground system of and hiding spots. Even the surname of defence constructions, girding the owner of the chambers – merchant the whole town and leading far Pogankin – is shrouded in legends: behind the fortress wall, the whether he got it for his cruel disposition ruins of churches and towers, or for ill-begotten riches. treasures and burial places THE GREMYACHAYA TOWER concealed under the bastions 35 – all these have become is shrouded in many legends. known not only from the According to one of them, in its archaeological excavations but dungeon among immeasurable from multiple legends as well. treasures an enchanted princess is fast asleep and no one has managed to set her free.

Text: Vladimirova L. Translation: Kidanova N. Authors, sources of photo materials: oroch2, evdoha, Cad_wizard, Igor-SPb, Kannap, sikaraha, www.depositphotos.com; Christina Bitenix, www.vk.com/draganesh; Dmitriev Roman, www.vk.com/clubkepadjan; Valentina Lomakina, www.vk.com/kustic31; Victor Gruznov, www.fotokto.ru; unknown authors: www.monetnik.ru, www.365saints.blogspot.com, ru.wikipedia.org, www.museums.pskov.ru, www.towntravel.ru, www.sverdlovsk.roskazna.ru, www.Uspenie-kamishin.prihod.ru, www.pskov-eparhia.ru, www.dic.academic.ru, www.berdysh.ru, www.pln-pskov.ru. 15 This publication has been produced with the financial support of Latvia-Russia Cross-Border Cooperation Programme 2014 – 2020. Its contents are the sole responsibility of Pskov City Administration and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Programme, Programme participating countries Latvia and Russia, alongside with the European Union.

Latvia-Russia Cross-Border Cooperation Programme 2014 – 2020 supports joint efforts for addressing cross-border development challenges and promotes sustainable use of existing potential of the area across border between the European Union and Russian Federation.

The Programme website is www.latruscbc.eu

This publication has been produced in the framework of the project LV-RU-002 “Preservation and promotion of the cultural and historical heritage in Latvia and Russia”/ LV-RU HERITAGE