Special Theme: Food Culture

National Food is an essential requirement for all creatures, and has many special meanings for humans. It is a source of pleasure, mediates Museum of social relationships, and is a key component in modern industrial economies. Civilization is impossible without food. Thinking about food Ethnology is essential for understanding human existence. In this issue, five staff and visitors introduce some general views, specific cases, and Osaka current directions in food studies. (A. Nobayashi, special theme editor). Number 47 December 2018 The Human and Natural History A n in Food Production MI N

Atsushi Nobayashi t

National Museum of Ethnology h Minpaku has a long tradition of food culture research. Naomichi Ishige led this research from the beginning. He was also the museum’s third director. r Ishige’s work did not just lead Minpaku’s food culture research, but food culture research in Japan as a whole. One of the chief characteristics of his o work has been to promote food culture research with a global perspective. He

has conducted field research in more than 80 countries and regions, publishing p books such as “Cultural Noodlogy (Bunka Menruigaku)”, “Field Work of the Palate (Shita no field work)”, and “Thinking Stomach (Kangaeru Ibukuro)”. With two statements, Ishige summarized the relationship between humans and o their food: ‘Man is an animal that cooks’, and ‘Human beings are animals that

share and eat food together’. These statements inspired me to think about food l culture research in terms of the human and natural history together. The idea of the human as o an animal that cooks has been

around for a long time, but has P Contents g been extended by Ishige. We might paraphrase his words

Special Theme: Food Culture as follows: human beings y The Human and Natural History in Food are animals who plan to eat.

Production Human beings have selected A Atsushi Nobayashi...... 1 ecological resources that are useful to them from the natural N The Significance of National Cuisine in Today’s Globalized Society environment and have added the processing, cooking, and Taeko Udagawa...... 3

combining of these resources e Authenticity, Soft Power and the Japanese to their feeding behavior. The

Food Boom K

important point is that humans w Yoshimi OSAWA...... 5 practice this in a systematic manner. Most wild animals in Taste, Authenticity, and Cultural Politics of Heritage Food the natural environment exist

in a state of equilibrium, in s Shingo Hamada...... 7 which they themselves are a

Tsampa Eating, Tibetan and part of the environment. Their le tt U Tibetanness food consumption activities Theresia Hofer...... 9 are carried out within the environmental system they Column...... 11 occupy, and they rarely alter Exhibition...... 13 the environment by making an Information...... 14 unbalanced use of its ecological

New Staff...... 14 resources. One of the key e Overseas Visiting Fellows...... 15 characteristics of human use of

Publications...... 16 ecological resources lies in the r Forthcoming Exhibition...... 16 imbalance between selectivity and quantity of consumption.

http://www.minpaku.ac.jp/ 2 MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter No 47 December 2018

Figure 1. Humans have actively made selective in the project. First we looked at the Food and foodways use of ecological resources and strategies of hunter gatherer societies, consumed in mass quantities in the diversity of cultivated plants in such a way as to maximize individual agricultural societies, and a broad profit. Over time, this has caused spectrum of ecological resource- the extinction of certain animals and utilization under different ‘food’ plants. Furthermore, one of humanity’s systems. Based on the research and adaptive strategies has been to switch discussion, we proposed an overview to selective use and mass consumption of humanity’s eating behavior and its of ecological resources through the impact on the environment (Figure 1). inventions of domestication and Recently, the present author has cultivation. The result has been an also been engaged with the idea that explosive increase in the populations ‘Human beings are animals who of livestock and agricultural species, as share and eat food together’, with a well as in the human population itself. particular focus on meat-eating as one Such imbalances in the utilization of the key elements in human food of ecological resources cannot be consumption. In this project, I consider explained solely in physical terms. the relationship between ecological It is also necessary to consider the adaptation and cultural status, and social and cultural factors that lead explore the changing nature of meat- to imbalance. With this problem eating in today’s consumer culture, in mind, the author organized an including possible future trends. interdisciplinary project called “Food In the course of evolution, humanity and Foodways in Cultural and has adapted ecologically to both Environmental History” at the Graduate carnivorous and vegetarian diets, and University for Advanced Studies. has also established social relations Anthropologists, archaeologists, and through the distribution and communal informatics researchers all participated eating of meat, the use of meat in sacrifice, and the 2050 (expected) avoidance and regulation of meat- eating. With the industrialization of meat production 2017 and distribution 2000 in the latter half of the 20th century, eating 1977 meat became an everyday 1950 occurrence in developed societies. Conversely it became very rare 125,000 years ago 10～8,000 years ago B.C./A.D. 15th C. 20th C. for people to gather Age of fire Age of domestication Age of Great Voyages Age of instruments: Hominization Subsistence conversion of food refrigerator, microwave for a communal resources meal of meat eaten 21st C. Age of information directly from the Figure 2. World population and foodways timeline Internet recipe sites animal. Against December 2018 MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter No 47 3 this social backdrop, discussions on Minpaku Special Research Project Atsushi Nobayashi, the rights of animals, including the entitled “Systems of food production a professor at Minpaku, has pros and cons of meat-eating, have in human and natural history” to look carried out flourished. This is seen particularly at four aspects of food and foodways: ethnoarchaeological in the ethical approach advocated by ecology, eating, society and civilization. research in Taiwan, “Animal Liberation Theory” in Western Originally, food was a source of focusing on hunting and farming of the society. While these ethical arguments individual sustenance, all within the indigenous peoples, have also flourished in Japan, there ecological cycle of the planet. However, and the significance have been few opportunities for an the treatment of food resources in this of artifacts and integrated discussion of the complex modern era of mass production and objects made and used by them. and diverse problems behind meat- mass disposal can be said to constitute He curates the eating and related practices. At a new, dark side of civilization that Taiwan Collection Minpaku, therefore, we organized an human society has never experienced of Minpaku and has Interdisciplinary Research Project before (Figure 2). The purpose of managed exhibitions on the ethnography entitled “A study of meat-eating”, and this research is to examine, within of indigenous culture compiled the results in a book of the political and economic contexts, the and history. He also same name. Besides clarifying the mechanisms behind the current state studies the social tangled web of issues related to meat- of food production in modern society, functions of food and eating, we considered the proper role which has deviated from ecological foodways and edited, The study of meat- of meat in today’s global consumer adaptation. The problem of food will eating (in Japanese, society. The project also aimed to bring be addressed using anthropological 2018). a fresh perspective on the relationship and socio-ecological perspectives. between human and animals. Through interdisciplinary approaches, Building on the previous research, the author hopes to further advance the author is currently planning a new Minpanku’s research into food culture.

The Significance of National Cuisine in Today’s Globalized Society

Taeko Udagawa National Museum of Ethnology

In December 2017, the “Technique nationalism over food. Taeko Udagawa of Italy’s Neapolitan Pizzaiuolo” was Cuisines named after their is Professor at Minpaku. She registered as Intangible Cultural countries, such as Italian cuisine specializes in family Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. and French cuisine, are commonly and gender studies, This was the second food registration referred to as “national cuisine” or conducting fieldwork in Italy, following the “Mediterranean “national food”. National cuisine in Italy. Recently she has developed diet”. is deeply connected to the identity an interest in food In response, President Macron and image of a country and is often movements. She said that France should immediately tied to nationalism. Studies of published Italy that apply for listing of the baguette as the national cuisines in connection with Has Been Seen through My Living Intangible Cultural Heritage in France, establishing and growing nation-states Inside the Castle where the “French meal” was already have increased in recent years. Wall (2015), and was registered. Italy responded, with the However, the situation is not so one of the editors of chairman of the Italian Organization simple; a variety of factors contribute the Anthropology of Global Assistance of Farmers (CORDIRETTI) remarking to nationalism, and the meaning (2017), the to the media that, “If France says so, of nationalism varies depending on Anthropology of Work registration of the production area of how the nation-state is established. (2016), and Reading Italian Prosecco (white sparkling wine) Accordingly, the meanings of national the Anthropology of should take precedence because the cuisine have become very diverse. In Gender (2007). production areas of Champagne and particular, globalization seems to have Burgundy are already registered as brought a paradigm shift to “national World Heritage sites in France”. The cuisine”, recently. But what is national chairman also mentioned that exports cuisine? of Italian wine in 2017, already almost Nationalism is primarily a process twice as much as French exports, of how people are mobilized and increased by 11% from the previous integrated as members of the nation- year, almost twice as fast as the French state, which can be defined as an exports, and Prosecco is the driving “imagined community”. The association force behind it. This is an exchange of of this movement and national cuisine 4 MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter No 47 December 2018

by migrants raised the international recognition of Italian cuisine and led to an increase in the export of Italian food materials. Foreign tourists visiting Italy also contributed to the establishment of Italian cuisine. Such contacts with other people cannot be overlooked in the establishment of any national cuisine. Recent globalization has increased exponentially in scale, speed and complexity. The fact that people initially began to use the word “globalization” Artusi’s cook book La scienza in cucina e l’arte in an economical sense also implies di mangiar bene on sale in a modern bookshop a further permeation of market (center of the bottom row) (Rome, Italy 2006) principles. The recent movement to try to register food as UNESCO Intangible can be learned from the spread of Cultural Heritage in many countries is cookbooks and recipe collections as largely attributable to the expectation an anthropologist, Arjun Appaudurai of an economic effect. In particular, has noted. In Italy, a cookbook called among the nations that became La scienza in cucina e l’arte di mangiar independent after World War II, there bene (Science in the Kitchen and the are many cases where the outline of the Art of Eating Well) was published 30 nation was created before establishing years after 1861 when the Kingdom sufficient public consciousness. In of Italy began. The book’s success (it such cases (e.g., in some African is said that each family has this book countries), a government may select a even now) is considered to integrate meal and food without seeking people’s diverse dishes from different places consensus, and sometimes promotes under the category called “Italy”. The them as national cuisine in order to author, Pellegrino Artusi, traveled appeal to foreign tourists, to wipe through Italy, gathering recipes of each out negative images such as conflict region into one volume and revising it and to increase tourism income. many times with reference to readers’ There is, of course, the view that “top- letters received after publication. Italy down” foods should be avoided in the had been delayed in modernization national cuisine, though some have compared to other European countries. been recognized as part of real national However, by the time of La scienza, cuisine, while utilized frequently for infrastructure such as the railroad tourism and other commercial contexts. and postal system had improved, Nationalism itself is also changing. and standardization of the Italian When globalization accelerated in the language had progressed. This book 1990s, there was a concern that the was published and spread during meaning of a nation’s existence would the growth of Italy as an “imagined decline. The concern that all food community”. and culture of the world will become Currently, however, interest in uniform has been expressed in the Italian cuisine has strong economic word “McDonaldization”. Certainly implications related to tourism and now, the essentialist nationalism that trade, rather than representing dominated previously appears out of public consciousness or a symbol of date; however, it remains apparent integration. Behind this “economic that the nation is one of the most turn” lies globalization with people, important actors on the stage in goods, and information moving rapidly the era of globalization. Interest in on a global scale. cultural differences including those Of course, the movement of people related to food, and the value of these and goods beyond national borders differences is increasing. In recent is not new; in fact, it has been an nationalism theory, the word “banal essential factor in the development of nationalism” has attracted attention national cuisine to date. For instance, as a more realistic expression that migrants who left Italy during the late refers to everyday representations of nineteenth century contributed to nationalism, in sports and music for the establishment of Italian cuisine example, although these may appeal elsewhere. While being exposed to trivial, compared to essentialist and others’ eyes in a migrant society, extremist claims for the homogeneous they became aware of themselves as “imagined community”. “Italians” and recognized their own Food is an exact model of banal foods as “Italian food”. In particular, the nationalism and may be one of the success of Italian restaurants opened most effective vehicles of nationalism December 2018 MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter No 47 5 in today’s global society. While Focusing on the transformations of nationalism is becoming less essential, national cuisine will surely help clarify it is more common and complicated. changes in the position of the nation in Certainly, food is nurtured in each global society. As nationalism becomes environment and penetrates the less essentialist, national cuisine has body and the memory of the people become one of the more important living there. However, compared to indicators of the complexity of an language which is considered one of the “imagined community” foundations of nationalism, food is easy to change, translate, and acquire; it has the character of easily moving and transcending categories. Furthermore, since humans are curious about new and different foods (although there is also resistance), food is easily exposed to desires and interpretations. Some nations have started to dislike such movements and try to assert the authenticity of their foods, with examples including the Italian restaurant authentication system and the geographical indication system of food. However, such assertions easily reveal their limits if you look at how recipes from Italian cuisine have been modified by individuals around the world, as can be seen on the Internet. Museum of the Mediterranean Diet (Pioppi in Campania, Italy 2017)

Authenticity, Soft Power and the Japanese Food Boom Yoshimi Osawa National Museum of Ethnology

Japanese food has become a huge Minister discussed how the certification Yoshimi Osawa trend throughout the world. The system should work. For instance, they has recently joined Minpaku as a number of Japanese restaurants considered what types of restaurants Research Fellow. overseas is increasing every year. should be the subject of certification She specializes in According to data provided by the and how to standardise the system. ethnobotany and the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and The term “Sushi Police” was coined anthropology of food. Her research centers Fisheries of Japan (MAFF), there by the American mass media to on understanding were an estimated 118,000 Japanese satirize these efforts, after which relationships restaurants outside Japan in 2017, a the system was considerably toned- between humans and five-fold increase since 2006. down from a “certification system” to nature, particularly by looking at human There have been various reactions “recommendation program”. taste perception, food throughout Japanese society to the A short-animated series, Sushi Police and ecology. She is international Japanese food boom, in inspired by the Japanese government’s currently working particular by the Japanese government attempt was broadcast in 2016 in on the history of MSG (monosodium and food-related industries. In 2006, Japan. On its promotional website, glutamate) MAFF announced the introduction of the publisher says “Some want to consumption and its a certification system for Japanese defend authentic food culture. Others rejection in Thailand. restaurants outside Japan. The want to restore their right to eat what primary purpose was to promote they like. They are opposite sides of “correct” knowledge of Japanese the same sushi”. Such rhetoric raises food culture, to promote the export questions about what is “correct” or of agricultural and marine products authentic Japanese food. “Authentic” to international markets, and to is an expression repeatedly found in encourage Japanese food industries this kind of discourse. Is California roll to expand their business overseas by authentic Japanese food? What about ensuring the credibility of Japanese ramen, which has its origin in China? restaurants overseas. A panel of In 2013, “Washoku, traditional 11 experts appointed by the MAFF dietary cultures of the Japanese, 6 MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter No 47 December 2018

notably for celebration of the New often translated as “Japanese food”, Year” was added to UNESCO’s register is commonly used to describe the of Intangible Cultural Heritage. How food of Japanese restaurants outside to define “washoku (Japanese food)” Japan: nihonshoku resutoran (Japanese was one of the main discussion food restaurant). However, the term points during official meetings held in nihonshoku is rarely used in relation preparation for registration. According to food in Japan. Instead, nihonryori to UNESCO, washoku is “a social (Japanese cuisine) or washoku are practice based on a set of skills, used. Compared to nihonshoku, the knowledge, practices and traditions meanings of nihonryoriori and washoku related to the production, processing, are more restricted and normally only preparation and consumption of food. used to describe more traditional It is associated with an essential spirit Japanese food. Although there is no of respect for nature that is closely clear definition of nihonshoku, the related to the sustainable use of certification policy mentioned earlier natural resources”. Note here that it used the expression nihonshoku was not food itself but social practice resutoran. and culture, typically seen during New Proposing the Japanese food Year celebrations, that was recognised certification system and UNESCO as intangible heritage. washoku registration ran parallel to the Wa is a cultural concept referring Japanese government’s Japan Brand to things Japanese, as in wa-shoku strategy and cultural diplomacy. Soft (Japanese food). The concept and the power, a concept referring to socio- term wa has been used to distinguish cultural politics and introduced by Japanese from other external cultural Joseph Nye, gained attention with the influences, in particular Western and government’s earlier promotion of “Cool Chinese. As noted by many scholars Japan”. Food culture was first included including Harada and Ohnuki- in the “2005 Intellectual Property Tierney, the concept of washoku Promotion Plan” as a “Japan Brand”. originated during the Meiji period The aim was to evaluate and develop (1868-1912) to distinguish Japanese prominent aspects of food culture cuisine from other cuisines, at a time and to promote widely the “correct” when the Japanese were engaged knowledge and techniques for Japanese in “westernisation (bunmeikaika)” food consumed outside Japan. thorough various cultural borrowings Japanese food is considered to be a including culinary culture. soft power, by the government and food The question still remains: what industries, serving as a driving force is correct and authentic Japanese for economic development and political food? Japanese food, just like other good will, along with anime, manga, major global culinary traditions, has music, games, and fashion. developed by incorporating different What has motivated these actions at ingredients and cooking methods a national policy level is the potential with diverse origins, inside and economic value of Japanese food. In outside the country. Japanese food various government statements, one of prepared outside Japan tends to be the main reasons given for government more flexible in terms of cooking promotion of the credibility and quality methods, ingredients, combinations, of Japanese restaurants overseas is and presentation - for reasons such to support expansion of Japanese as the availability of ingredients and agricultural, marine and food product a desire to adapt the palette to local exports into global markets. sensitivities. The word nihonshoku, Economics is not the whole story - there is more to tell and more to learn. Toshikatsu Matsuoka (1945-2007), who initiated the Japanese food certification system as Minister of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, mentioned his experience of eating Japanese food outside Japan in an online newsletter published in the Abe Cabinet E-mail Magazine (Dec 14, 2006): “I think, as a Japanese citizen, our food is something we can be proud [of, but] … when I went overseas, I noticed restaurants serving dishes that did not in anyway resemble Japanese food, yet there was still a sign indicating a Japanese restaurant”. I have found similar Take away sushi in Melbourne, Australia (Photo by author, 2016) opinions during my fieldwork. Some December 2018 MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter No 47 7

Japanese abroad complained how on “Japanese food (washoku)”. In bad the Japanese 2019, Kyoto Prefectural University will food overseas open a new Department of Japanese tasted or told Food Culture (washoku bunka), how a Japanese providing further opportunities to chef of Japanese explore washoku in terms of history, cuisine lost arts, science, literature, culture, his motivation management and beyond. working in The question of how globalization England might strengthen or re-establish because the national and local identities has been customers did examined by many scholars and is not understand Sign identifying an highly relevant to the globalization the Japanese ‘Officially Accredited of food and foodways. The rising Authentic Japanese delicate taste. restaurant’ at a Japanese popularity of Japanese food overseas In the Restaurant in London. (I has brought us an interesting academic field, could not find any official opportunity to consider the broader the Society of information about this roles of food in cultural diplomacy, accreditation.) (Photo by Japanese Food author, 2015) political economy, culinary nationalism, Studies was and cultural authenticity. Let me close established with a quote from Sushi Police. “What is this year in order to focus on various true sushi? It is not for us to decide but global issues related to food based sushi will”.

Taste, Authenticity, and Cultural Politics of Heritage Food Shingo Hamada Osaka Shoin Women’s University

Fermentation is a cultural adaptive the old capital of Kyoto. Secondly, it strategy that can make use of over- is known as one of the first places abundant resources, such as pelagic where advanced purse seine nets were fish species that seasonally approach employed for catching sardine and shorelines and are caught in the mackerel in the late 19th and early great quantity. Japanese scholars, 20th centuries. The mackerel fishery notably Toru Shinoda and Naomichi became an iconic economic and social Ishige, have greatly contributed to our activity in Tagarasu, but inefficient understanding of fermented foods in fishing regulation and resource human history and cultural geography, management, possibly coupled with including fish sauces and other aquatic environmental changes, resulted in products in Southeast and East depletion of regional mackerel stocks Asia. This essay reports the author’s and the closure of the purse seine ethnographic research on the cultural fishery in Tagarasu in 1987. value and meaning of saba-narezushi Tagarasu individuals used to receive (fermented sushi made with mackerel) dozens of surplus mackerel after a in the rural foodscape of southwest successful fishing trip. These fish Fukui, Japan. were preserved as dried or fermented products, such as heshiko (fish Mackerel Route and Fishing History - fermented with salt and rice bran) Tagarasu is a coastal community with and heshiko-narezushi (heshiko re- a current population of approximately fermented with rice and koji rice molt). 400, located in Wakasa Bay, in Obama The narezushi in Tagarasu and nearby city of Fukui prefecture. Tagarasu is coastal communities is unique in using significant for two historical reasons: two processes of fermentation. First, Firstly, it is the starting point of the to make heshiko, fat-rich seasonal Mackerel Route (sabakaido), the mackerel are stored with rice-bran trading path that brought maritime in winter, then become aged with a products from the Sea of Japan to condensed umami flavor in the rice 8 MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter No 47 December 2018

Shingo Hamada is an associate professor in the Faculty of Liberal Arts at Osaka Shoin Women’s University and a research associate in the Department of Anthropology at Indiana University Bloomington. His research revolves around the environmental history and cultural politics of seafood in coastal Japan, with Heshiko in a fermenting house in Tagarasu. Mackerel narezushi in Tagarasu. a special focus on (photo by author, 2015) (photo by author, 2015 ) fermented seafoods and commoners’ fish such as herring. bran over a hot summer in a barrel. continue this exchange practice, even He is the author of Next, the salt and skin are cleaned long after the Tagarasu and farming “Seafood: Ocean to off the heshiko fish. The desalted communities began purchasing food the Plate” (Routledge), “The Future of Food mackerel are stored again for a second commodities in grocery stores. Studies” in Food, fermentation, this time for about two Local production, distribution and Culture & Society, weeks with rice and koji. consumption of heshiko and narezushi and “Gone with Narezushi looks and tastes different are still important aspects of regional the Herring: Ainu Geographic Names from globally known sushi such as cultural identity, though local mackerel and a Multiethnic nigirizushi and makizushi as it is and salt are no longer sufficient for History of Coastal not fresh but aged sushi made with production. Tagarasu people now Hokkaido” in fermentation. Using heshiko, not use both domestic and Norwegian Canadian Journal of Native Studies. directly salted mackerel, in the crafting mackerel for heshiko, but only domestic of narezushi makes a final product with mackerel can be used for narezushi. less fishy smell while enriching umami Commercially the fish are sold under flavors. Fermenting also helped locals the same name, masaba (literally to avoid wasting mackerel caught in ma means “real” and saba means great quantities by purse seine fishing. “mackerel”). The geographical origin of This two-fermentation process and products is labeled by regulation, but artisanal production made narezushi the fish are different subspecies. The valuable enough to be listed on the Norwegian fish are Atlantic mackerel “Ark of Taste” produced by Slow Food (Scomber scombrus) while the Japanese International. While local producers are fish are Pacific mackerel (S. japonicus). proud to have international recognition Norwegian mackerel contain about of their heritage food, registration in twice as much fat and cost only one- the Ark of Taste means that naresushi fifth compared to Japanese mackerel. is a heritage seafood at risk of Cheap and rich fat content appeals to disappearance. the taste of contemporary customers, and Norwegian mackerel now makes Satoyama-Satoumi Foodscape - up about 90% of imported mackerel in Fermentation technologies also made Japan. protein sources available for farming Norwegian mackerel are too fatty communities outside coastal for making narezushi. Their high communities. In the region of Tagarasu fat content gives the final narezushi and surroundings, there was a gift products a slight yellowish color, economy network that connected while narezushi made with domestic farming communities to fishing mackerel gives the fermented fish and communities. Fisherfolks brought covering rice a symbolically-significant seafood, including heshiko, narezushi color. A small-scale aquaculture is and other dried fish, to nearby farming currently producing local-branded communities. Fermented fish could mackerel in Tagarasu, in order to also be an important medium for maintain cultural meanings and social farming communities to obtain salt relations that the heritage seafood has and sodium in their diets. Tsuneichi held for centuries. The fish cannot Miyamoto also refers to salted salmon be simply substituted with foreign as a source of salt as well as fish in mackerel. northern Japan. In return, farmers More importantly, the authentic provide rice and vegetables. Rice taste of narezushi has recently become received from farmers in Autumn a bone of contention that prevents was used for home consumption and locals from working together to for crafting narezushi, while farmers preserve and promote their heritage received narezushi in return in early food in our post-industrial society. winter. A few Tagarasu elders still Non-local consumers tend to avoid December 2018 MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter No 47 9 salty food for health concerns, but making narezushi at home. traditional preserved foods like heshiko In Japan, rural populations have and narezushi are inevitably salty as shrunk and aged with younger salt must be used in the fermenting generations moving to cities. It is process. Some local producers recently becoming difficult to pass down the began using rice wine to sweeten artisanal knowledge and trading their narezushi because of their network of naresaba to future grandchildren’s preference. Strictly generations. Under these dire speaking, the use of rice koji in the circumstances, how does changing crafting of narezushi is also not an taste affect local efforts to preserve ‘authentic’ cooking method. Locals state and maintain narezushi? Will changing that rice koji promotes fermentation the taste of narezushi from salty to process while also making narezushi sweet, in response to the current taste sweeter. Others also use mirin health hazard of salt, follow the (sweet sake) in crafting narezushi, general trend towards sweet foods? possibly for sanitary purposes or to What taste should be authenticized, if make its taste closer to what urban possible, and passed down to future consumers are more familiar with. generations? The cultural politics of Each household had its own recipe, taste continues to be entangled with taste, and unique microenvironment the personal, social, and nutritional and fermenting house, so the taste of values of salt(iness) and authenticity in narezushi diversified. Now, the diversity the postindustrial era. is decreasing as elders begin to quit

Coastal Inland communities: communities: + = fish and salt koji

The barter economy between coastal and inland communities.

Tsampa Eating, and Tibetanness Theresia Hofer University of Bristol

The well-known staple food of Tibetans in the farming areas of the Tibetan is tsampa, roasted and ground . plateau and the high , where Barley is an ideal, hardy crop for the it is usually eaten together with either region as most inhabited areas lie well tea or yoghurt and often combined with over 3000 m above sea level. Legend and dried cheese. It is also used has it that the first agricultural field in in many different Buddhist, household was cultivated with barley in the and life-cycle rituals as well as in festive seventh century, when Tibetan kings foods, such as those eaten during the and their powerful Indian Buddhist Tibetan New Year. teachers “tamed the land” and civilized Contrary to many outsiders’ views, local religions. In the process of turning Tibetans have long had diverse regional, Tibet into a land of the dharma, political and religious affiliations or , offerings made from and they speak, write and sign many tsampa, the so-called torma, replaced different languages. This diversity the animal sacrifice of indigenous has often made the modern, political Tibetan religions. “struggle for Tibet” difficult in the Tsampa is still today a crucial daily context of occupation and integration food item for most Tibetans, especially into the People’s Republic of China, 10 MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter No 47 December 2018

Theresia Hofer is during the latter half of the 20th Senior Lecturer in century. In 1957 in the Tibet Mirror (a Social Anthropology at the University newspaper published in Kalimpong, of Bristol, UK. She ), appealed to all Tibetans currently studies as “Tsampa eaters”. Here tsampa social, political and represents Tibetanness in the face economic dynamics in the lives of deaf of threat, as explained by historian Tibetans and their Tsering Shakya in his famous essay communication Whither the Tsampa Eaters (1993). In practices in , Rice as Self (1993), Emiko Ohnuki- Tibet Autonomous Region, China. Tierney writes “The power of food Her article ‘Is as a symbol of self-identity derives from the particular nature of the Figure 2: A Tibetan forming tsampa dough balls. Sign Language symbolic process involved. One of the https://highpeakspureearth.com/2011/tsampa- (TibSL) Emerging, dimensions of food as a metaphor of a eaters-and-sweet-tea-drinkers-tibetan-identity- Endangered, or assertion-through-food/ (accessed 14 November Both? Notes on TSL’s social group is that each member of the 2018) History, Linguistic social group consumes the food, which Vitality and Tibetan becomes part of his or her body and it licking it directly out of the bowl (more Signers in the Tibet operates as a metonym for being part of common in Eastern Tibet, especially Autonomous Region’ was published in the self.” This argument could easily be Derge). As a snack, the dry tsampa 2017 in a special applied to tsampa for Tibetans. flour is also consumed by shoving it to issue on minority Tibetan Sign Language (TSL) the back of one’s mouth on a spoon. languages in Tibet visualizes the concept of Tibetanness I have no record of how the eating in the International Journal of the as tsampa-eating in its sign for bö of tsampa in the form of pak came to Sociology of Language (“Tibet”, the place) and bö pa (“Tibetan”, be used as the sign bö and bö pa in the (Open Access). the adjective) in a particularly explicit Lhasa variant of TSL. Even the earliest manner. TSL textbooks I found in Lhasa, from the year 2000, use the sign that refers to the making of tsampa dough balls. This is the main way tsampa is eaten as a daily meal in Lhasa and in Central Tibet, and the bodily movement is also a co-speech gesture used by hearing Tibetans. The gesture is also used by deaf Tibetan signers in Central Tibet, who have not come in contact with the more formalized Lhasa variety of TSL. They use this gesture to refer more broadly to either “food”, “tsampa” or pak. One would expect that deaf signers in other regions of Tibet have other gestures and signs for the food The TSL sign for “Tibet” and “Tibetan” on the left, and for “Tibet” and “Tibetan”, as as depicted in a section on ethnic groups and nationalities. From the Tibetan Sign Language tsampa is eaten in a different ways. Book: Vol 1 (2004). There is so far little contact between TSL users and deaf signers outside Central Tibet. In Lhasa today, many older Tibetans The sign bö and bö pa uses both and especially parents lament the fact hands, with the signer’s non-dominant that children no longer love tsampa as hand forming the shape of a bowl, they themselves do. They complain that within which four fingers of the when children join school (which now dominant hand perform the action from an increasingly young age means replicating the preparation of fist-sized to join boarding schools), they grow balls made from tsampa and tea (Figure accustomed to eating rice-based and 2). -based food stuffs and cease to The action of this sign iconically eat tsampa, even during the weekends depicts the forming of pak, or tsampa and holidays at home. There is even dough balls, out of a tsampa and tea a (new?) discourse that tsampa is too mixture. This is the most common difficult to digest and that Tibetans’ way to eat tsampa in Central Tibet stomachs are no longer “strong enough” and in Lhasa. There are other ways of to digest it. Many Tibetan parents are preparing and consuming tsampa in anxious that their children grow up everyday life, such as by forming the able to – and loving to ¬– eat tsampa. dough balls inside a leather tsampa bag From about two to three months (often used when travelling or herding), onwards, some will introduce tsampa or by preparing a wetter dough mixture as a solid food stuff “to make sure”, so I in a small wooden bowl and then was told, that their children will be able December 2018 MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter No 47 11 to “digest and love tsampa” when they grow up. This is quite apart from the common one-off first feeding of tsampa and butter straight after birth. The anxiety over tsampa among Tibetans in exile, who often have no access to this foodstuff, is certainly epitomized in the popular Tibetan music video from 2012 by Shapaley, a Swiss –Tibetan song-writer. This was performed in New York (home to a large ), and sung hip hop style: A snapshot from children learn not to whine for their Shapaley’s hugely རྩམ་པ་ཟ་ནའི་མི། popular song “I am ཁལ་སིད་མི་ཚོས་སད་ཆ་དྲིས་ན། sago (Schieffelin 1990). Within the a Tsampa Eater” on ངས་ལན་འདུག་སེ་རྒྱབ་ཀིས་ཡོད། recent turn in linguistic anthropology YouTube (2018). Shapaley ང་རྩམ་པ་ཟ་ནའི་མི་གཅིག་ཡིན། toward the study of language use here sits and performs and foodways, the questions of how in a New York Tibetan ཁ་བ་ཅན་གི་བོད་ལོངས་ནས་སླེབས་ཡིན། restaurant, eating tsampa ཇ་སྒྲུབ་མ་བཏུང་ནའི་དང་ཤ་སམ་པོ་ཟ་ནའི་དེ། Tibetans talk about food, and how dough balls, with a bowl language explicitly encodes dietary of tsampa flour, a tsampa I am a tsampa-eater. and social change, are certainly worth bag, and more dough If people ask me what I am, further anthropological exploration. balls on the table. I tell them this: Whether in Lhasa Tibetan Sign I am a tsampa-eater. Language, or among political activists The land of snow is where of the 1950s, or for a Swiss-Tibetan I come from. performing in New York, tsampa has I drink and eat jerky. maintained the power to signify not only a core food stuff, but also – in Ethnographers in many places popular imagination - the land of Tibet, around the world have described how the Tibetan nation, Tibetanness, and food and language interrelate, from Tibetans as people. the use of magic spells in growing yam (Malinowski 1935) to how

Column Disturbing Visitors: an Earthquake and Typhoon Peter J. Matthews National Museum of Ethnology

Within the last six months, Minpaku to buildings. The trains has received two disturbing visitors were operating fully – a powerful earthquake and an again with a few days. extraordinary typhoon. Our museum, On the morning of 18th June, a however, was closed to magnitude 6.1 earthquake struck the public for almost northern Osaka at a depth of 13 km, three months. Although very near the Museum. The quake was structural damage does felt strongly across the surrounding not appear to have region, including Kyoto, but the worst been great, there was damage was in areas near to the main widespread cracking in access routes to our museum, in the walls, ceiling materials Minor earthquake cities of Ibaraki and Takatsuki. The fell in the permanent galleries, and damage to a display homes of many staff living near the objects in some displays moved or of pottery, in the South museum were shaken, and supplies of were broken (see photo). There was Asia Gallery. electricity and water were cut over a fortunately little damage in the main large area. In the affected cities, older storage rooms for our ethnological houses lost roof tiles, but generally, object collection, but the main library there was not much obvious damage tower was badly shaken, and two- 12 MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter No 47 December 2018

At Minpaku, Matthews is Professor, a curator of the Oceania Gallery at Minpaku, and heads the editorial panel of the present Newsletter. His research is focused on ethnobotany and plant domestication in Asia and the Pacific. Recent publications include the book chapter “Evolution and Domestication of Clonal Crops” (in the Routledge Handbook of Agricultural Biodiversity, 2017), and an article, “Phylogeography, Ethnobotany and Linguistics” (Man in Exterior cladding that fell during the earthquake Research office of our Director General after the India, vol. 97, 2017). of June 18, 2018, at the public entrance to earthquake. Minpaku.

thirds (approx. 400,000 books or the practical life-span of the building, journal volumes) of the library holdings which is a registered historical were thrown to the floor. For research building designed by an award-winning staff arriving at the museum in the architect, the late Kisho Kurokawa. days that followed, an unpleasant Just as our facilities and research surprise was waiting: furniture, books began to settle back to something and papers were scattered in many like usual, Typhoon Jebi hit Osaka offices, according to how shockwaves and the surrounding region on the passed through the building. Some 4th of September. This was the most office doors could not be opened for powerful typhoon to hit Japan in hours or days because of the objects twenty-five years. Transport services, that fell or moved inside. Fortunately, electricity, and other services were few staff members were present when again interrupted. The obvious physical the earthquake hit, and the museum damage regionally was perhaps worse had not yet opened to the public, so than the preceding earthquake. there were no injuries at the museum. Large areas of metal and tile roofing The consequences of the were stripped from buildings. At our earthquake are still unfolding. The museum, numerous windows were public auditorium at our museum, blown out, and in the surrounding with a high ceiling and seating for Senri Expo Park, hundreds of trees 450 people, was found to be unfit were ripped apart. for immediate repair, as the present In the long-term, it is the 1970s design does not meet modern earthquake damage that will most safety standards. Rebuilding and affect our museum, as it has pushed reopening of the auditorium are forward the need to think about the planned, but may take a long time. security and safety of our collections, Safety in the museum generally has facilities, and exhibitions. The Museum been reassessed. Bookshelves and recently built new conservation furniture in our offices have been fixed facilities designed to assist other or re-fixed to each other and to walls, institutions with collections affected where possible. Flexible bands for by disaster. We are very fortunate holding books in place have been added to have staff members who already to many shelves. Staff members have have expertise in dealing with natural been discarding unneeded books and disaster. Ultimately, though, we have papers to improve access and safety in to accept that even our Museum is their offices. Following initial repairs “mortal” and must face the same in the galleries, the museum reopened existential questions that every other to the public on 13th September. Two building in Japan faces, given the special exhibitions were postponed, but geological forces that constantly act on are now showing and in preparation. this country. Hopefully, the spirit of the Cracks in corridor walls have been Museum will be resilient, even as the painted over, but there is still concern body weakens. about future maintenance costs and December 2018 MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter No 47 13

which participants actually Exhibition the later separation of Amish experience making Amish from the Mennonites, their quilts were conducted during The World of Amish migration to North America, the exhibition. Visitors can Quilts: Seeking Ways and the birth of various new stay longer at a cozy sofa and Amish groups that chose table space in front of many of Living, Weaving the different ways of living in this quilts to see collected picture World modern word. How Amish books and other information, quilts attracted attention of including the paper “Creating Thematic Exhibition people in the world especially Place for Caring and Pleasure: August 23 – December 25, 2018 in the late 20th century is also Living with Patchwork Quilts” examined. in N. Suzuki (ed.) (2017), Amish Amish people have Parts two and three focus on and Mennonites’ Ideas and developed communities the quilts mostly made by the Practices for Well-being: Seeking primarily in North America as first half of the 20th century. Age-friendly Communities. Senri places to care and support each Part two features Amish quilts Ethnological Reports 141. other, and to conduct a way of that express daily living and The opinions of participants life based on their Anabaptist the natural environment, and and visitors received during interpretation of the Bible. examines aspects shared with the preparations and the First of all, the main American quilts more widely exhibition enriched research purpose of the display of Amish in American history. Part three and exhibition activities at quilts and everyday items is focuses on Amish Quilts given Minpaku and the collaborating to show Japanese museum to people at the milestones institutions: International Quilt visitors that although Amish of life, including marriage, Study Center & Museum at the people seem to be apart from childbirth, and parting. These University of Nebraska-Lincoln, the modern world they actually illustrate the ties that Amish Young Center for Anabaptist interact with other people and people have woven into their and Pietist Studies, Mennonite the environment. The second changing lives. Historical Library at Goshen purpose is to deepen knowledge Part four presents the University, and American Quilt of the Amish through current situation of Amish quilt Study Group. exchanges with visitors and making. Especially women people who cooperated in have extended their living Nanami Suzuki preparing the exhibition, over a spaces by running small stores National Museum of Ethnology long period of time. at home, and Amish people Quilts and other materials have continued to volunteer were collected, during three in making quilts to collaborate Transmitting Art Minpaku museum projects with other Anabaptist groups and Craft: Japanese conducted in 2011, 2013, and such as Mennonites for fund- 2016, with the cooperation raising activities to support Industrial Design of people who are interested care for diverse people. Originating in Tohoku in Anabaptists’ way of living Visitors can pick up four and their quilts. The exhibits sheets at each section for Special Exhibition include 143 Amish and further information on the September 13 – November 2, American quilts, written Amish way of living, history of 2018 (Interview) commentary, and photo panels. American and Amish Quilts, These are presented in Amish lifecycle, and Anabaptist Associate Professor HIDAKA four parts. Part one traces the beliefs and practices for taking Shingo, chairman of the emergence of the Anabaptists, care of others. In the last executive committee, was asked part, visitors about this special exhibition can also see and its highlights. This photographs interview was first published of Anabaptist in Japanese in the “Minpaku people’s Associates Newsletter” and is life from presented here courtesy of the exchanges and Senri Foundation. documentations activities This exhibition focuses on the during the “National Research Institute collection of Industrial Arts” as the process in the origin of industrial design in United States. Japan. Could you tell us about Several its background and features gallery talks of the exhibition? When the and lectures National Research Institute of were given in Industrial Arts was founded the thematic in 1928, Japan was trying to Visitors participating the “gallery talk” conducted by Nanami exhibition hall. industrialize craftwork as a Suzuki (photo by Koji Suzuki, September 13, 2018) Workshops in pillar for promoting exports. 14 MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter No 47 December 2018

(July 6, 2018). National Museum of Ethnology

The Museum received the JICA President Award for preeminent contributions to Infinity table (photo by SAN-EI Corporation) socio-economic development in developing countries, in The National Research Institute table “Infinity”, which was used recognition of the International was established in Sendai to for the Olympic Games in Rio Museology Course organized by help craft products to lead (see photo). Unlike conventional the Museum in collaboration industrial development in (high-performance) tables, with the Japan International the Tohoku region, where its legs are made of wood. Cooperation Agency (JICA) and traditional crafts had originally Thanks to the molded other museums (October 1, prospered. The Institute plywood technique developed 2018). produced many excellent by the National Research designers and techniques up Institute, higher strength Shigeharu Sugita until the postwar period. and precision were added to Professor Emeritus In 2015, prototypes the wood – a fragile material. manufactured at the Institute Furthermore, in response to Received the Order of the were donated in bulk to the the aspiration of the president Sacred Treasure, Gold Rays Tohoku History Museum, with of the manufacturing company, with Neck Ribbon for his long- which I was involved while materials and techniques term contributions to public supporting the repair of cultural produced in Tohoku were used education (November 3, 2018). properties damaged by the as much as possible. A new Great East Japan Earthquake. color used for the table, ‘les Retirement This special exhibition has yeux bleus’, was developed as been realized as a result of my a color of life to express hope After many years at Minpaku, involvement in research on for successful reconstruction the following will retire in the donated materials. We also in Tohoku. In addition, this March 2019. exhibited the “Sono Collection”, color has a design advantage a collection of craftwork owned that makes the ball easy to see. Koji Sato by Minpaku, including a variety This exhibit represents both the Associate Professor, of tools used by craftsmen. spirit of the National Research Architectural history, ethno- Institute and the present architecture; Southeast Asia, What made you use the title Tohoku. Oceania. phrases “Originating in Tohoku” and “Transmitting Art and Craft”? How do you want the members I expect visitors to pay more of the Minpaku Associates attention to Tohoku after coming to enjoy the exhibition? You New Staff to this exhibition, and hope may think ‘industrial design’, they will focus on the wonderful is different from ‘traditional Hideaki Suzuki culture unique to Tohoku, not on crafts’. I think Japanese culture Assistant Professor, Department “devastated Tohoku.” is well-balanced in tradition of Globalization and Humanity I chose “Transmitting” as a and modernity. I would be glad key word because I think past if visitors could understand Hideaki experiences are very important through the exhibition how Suzuki works to us. I consider the concept arts and crafts and industrial on the Indian of design or culture as the design can create a future by Ocean in process of thinking about the balancing the past and present. world history, present and the future based and especially on the past. In recent years, the East we often see designs created African Coast. without looking back at the Information Specific past properly. This is very interests dangerous; our daily life goes Awards include topics such as piracy, well when our sense of values is merchants, port cities, pearl based on a proper transmission Akira Saito fishing, slavery and slave and inheritance of both success Professor, Department trading. He is the author and failure. of Modern Society and of Slave Trade Profiteers in Civilization the Western Indian Ocean: Are there any exhibits that Suppression and Resistance in you want the visitors to pay Received from Daido Life the Nineteenth Century (New particular attention to? I would Foundation the Incentive York: Palgrave, 2017, a winner like visitors to pay special Award for Area Studies for of Japan Association for African attention to the table-tennis his research on Latin America Studies Award, 2018) and December 2018 MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter No 47 15 edited a collection of articles Lecturer and as a philologist and linguist focusing on the abolition of researcher and spent two years in Central slavery in various regions in History Asia between 1993 and 1995. I entitled Abolitions as A Global Department was fascinated how indigenous Experience (Singapore: NUS at the peoples preserved their cultures Press, 2016). He is currently University despite the Communist ideology, writing a global history of the of Maroua, and then started to revive them abolition of slavery which will Northern in the post-Soviet era. I have be published next year. Cameroon. started collecting folklore to He has better understand indigenous Tetsuya Tanaka specialized in Islamic studies culture. In the last 25 years I Assistant Professor, Centre for in the Chad Basin, employing have travelled through Central South Asian Studies, National comparative methods to and Inner Asia, Russia, Museum of Ethnology and understand Chad Basin people and China to meet Research Fellow, Center for and societies. His publications Altaic peoples. Transdisciplinary Innovation, include a recent book entitled: National Institutes for the “Islam, Ethnicity and Power Theresia Hofer Humanities in Chad Basin from 1960 to Senior Lecturer, 2000, Comparative Studies University of Bristol Tanaka of Cameroon, Nigeria and specializes in Chad, (2015). His ongoing Being trained the History of research and teach focus on as a social and Religions and ethnicity, Islamism, post- medical an- South Asian Islamism, fundamentalism, thropologist, I Studies. and analysis of efforts to the have over the He has counter violent extremism past few years conducted in the Chad Basin region developed a re- fieldwork with and beyond. He is a national newed interest Marwaris, representative member of the in how social known as one of the most RESOLVE Network Research processes successful trading communities Advisory Group that supports and practices relate to, or are in India, and especially their research initiatives through expressed, through language. I management of Hindu temples the United States Institute of came to Minpaku to learn from and public trusts in North Peace (2017-2018). From 2018 four linguists and an anthro- India. His main interest is the he will focus on issues related pologist studying sign languages transformation of religion in to Islamic education in West and deaf communities in Asia, public areas and interactions Africa. At Minpaku, he is using in a project headed by R. Ki- between religion, law and the historical and anthropological kusawa. I am currently writing public in colonial and post- approaches to develop the Signs of Resistance? Signing colonial India. He received ethnological database and and Belonging to Tibet, based on his PhD in March 2014 from archives which include oral fieldwork in Lhasa. I work as Se- Kansai University, and was and audio literature and nior Lecturer in Social Anthro- a JSPS (Japan Society for ethnographic objects from pology at the University of Bris- the Promotion of Science) several ethnic groups in tol, UK, and previously curated Postdoctoral Research Fellow Northern Cameroon collected the Bodies in Balance exhibition (2014-2016), Associate Fellow by the late Paul Kazuhisa at the Rubin Museum of Art in at the International Research Eguchi. New York (with a publication Centre for Intangible Cultural of the same title). My second Heritage in the Asia-Pacific David Somfai Kara monograph Medicine and Mem- Region (2016-2017), and a Researcher, Institute of ory in Tibet: Amchi Physicians in JSPS Overseas Research Fellow Ethnology, Research Centre an Age of Reform has just been (2017-2018). His major works for the Humanities (Hungarian published with the University of include Business Community Academy of Sciences) Washington Press. and Hindu Temple Management in India: Charity, Devotion, I was born Yuka Kadoi and Interest for Marwaris (in in Budapest Visiting Scholar Japanese, Fukyosha, 2014). but spent Al - Sabah Collection/ Dar al – summer Athar al - Islamiyyah vacations in the Great Yuka Kadoi is a historian of Hungarian Islamic and Asian art. Since Overseas Visiting Fellows Plain where the completion of her doctoral I met the research (PhD in History of Art, Adama Ousmanou local Cuman University of Edinburgh), she Senior Lecturer, University of people. This aroused my has worked internationally as a Maroua interest in the language and researcher, lecturer and curator. culture of the Kypchak Turks. She is the author or editor of Adama Ousmanou is a Senior I started my academic training several books and numerous 16 MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter No 47 December 2018

Forthcoming Exhibitions

Thematic Exhibition Special Exhibition Traveling Music: The String Toys Expo - Children in Instruments of South Asia Modern Japan Feb.21 – May.7, 2019 Mar.21 – May.28, 2019 National Museum of Ethnology, Osaka National Museum of Ethnology, Osaka

car

vichitra vina Cadillac

articles, aimed at a future exhibition of MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter including the Gluck Collection of modern Islamic Persian arts and crafts (a The Newsletter is published in Chinoiserie: June and December. “Minpaku” collection held at Minpaku). is an abbreviation of the The Art of Japanese name for the National Mongol Iran Museum of Ethnology (Kokuritsu (Edinburgh Minzokugaku Hakubutsukan). University Publications The Newsletter promotes Press, 2009; available online at: a continuing exchange of minpaku.ac.jp/publications information with former visiting paperback, scholars and others who have 2018; Chinese and Persian been associated with the museum. translations, forthcoming) Bulletin of the National The Newsletter also provides a and Arthur Upham Pope and Museum of Ethnology 42 forum for communication with a A New Survey of Persian Art wider academic audience. (Brill, 2016), and the curator Issue 4: Nobayashi, “Clothes as Available online at: of Islamic art exhibitions in Means to Visualize Ethnicity: minpaku.ac.jp/publications Chicago (2010), Edinburgh A Case of Name Correction (2014) and Hong Kong (2018). Process of Taiwan Indigenous General Editor: Kenji Yoshida Editor: Peter Matthews Her current major project is Sakizaya People”. Editorial Panel: Hatsuki Aishima, publishing a comprehensive Kazunobu Ikeya, Ritsuko Kikusawa, catalogue of Islamic jade in Bulletin of the National Yoshitaka Terada association with the Al-Sabah Museum of Ethnology 43 Address for correspondence: Collection / Dar al-Athar al- The Editor Islamiyyah in Kuwait. As a Issue 1: H. Kondo, “The MINPAKU Anthropology Newsletter grant recipient awarded by Actual as Possessing the National Museum of Ethnology the Austrian Science Fund Land: Demarcation from the Senri Expo Park, Suita, Osaka (FWF), she has just launched a Perspective of the Embera 565-8511, Japan Tel: +81-6-6876-2151 research project on the history (Panama)”. Fax: +81-6-6878-8479 and historiography of Persian E-mail: [email protected] art at the Institute of Art Senri Ethnological Studies Signed articles represent views of History, University of Vienna. 99 the authors, not official views of At Minpaku, she is helping Museum. on developing the data for the R. Fleming Puckett and Middle Eastern collections, in K. Ikeya, (eds.) Research © National Museum of Ethnology collaboration with Minpaku’s and Activism among the 2018. ISSN 1341-7959 Centre for Modern Middle Kalahari San Today. 353pp Printed by the General Department, Eastern Studies. This work is (monograph). Mainichi Newspapers