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EAT TOGETHER Talking taste

writer : Kimberley Lovato

For ‘foodies’, the abundance cheese and a whisky. Freddy of fantastic restaurants Vandecasserie of La Villa Lorraine is one of ’s biggest was the greatest influence in my draws. From Michelin stars professional career. to hidden snack stands, What’s the most embarrassing thing there is always something that has happened to you in your delicious to try. But beyond restaurant? the border, what do people Having a Flemish guest speak to me, really know about the and only nodding and smiling because ? We pull up a chair I had no idea what he was saying with four Belgian chefs who What does ‘Chambar’ mean ? are also making a name My grandmother came up with the name for themselves abroad. - an old French phrase meaning ‘when the teacher leaves the room, all the kids go crazy!’ In French it is spelt chambard NICOLAS SCHUERMANS - the ‘d’ is silent. Nicolas Schuermans, ‘Nico’ to his friends Left : What is your fondest memory than and chocolate! For example, Nicolas Scheurmans and family, studied at the prestigious What advice would you give of Belgium ? I have or pigeon on my winter CREPAC School of Culinary Arts to someone dining at your restaurant R i g h t : My dad’s whole braised squab with baby menu, something Americans rarely eat. Bart M. Vandaele in Belgium and apprenticed at La Villa for the first time ? potatoes. The best squabs always came Shrimp are a favourite. Lorraine (two Michelin stars), before Be open-minded and without from my granddad’s pigeon house. We make them fresh, using baby grey working at Comme Chez Soi, (two expectations. Leave your day at the shrimps imported from Belgium. Michelins). Schuermans has cooked door and enjoy the experience of Who influenced for many celebrities and has travelled brave food, great and a vibrant your the most ? Do you ever let others cook for you ? the world working in prestigious . atmosphere. My dad. He had his own restaurant and Of ! When I’m not working, I love raised me in his . I also had the to be invited for dinner. What I love most What is your fondest memory of Chambar Restaurant privilege of having two important mentors, are the simple things. B e l g i u m ? 562 Beatty Street Crosstown Piet Huysentruyt whose restaurant of the Spending summers at my grandparents’ Vancouver BC, US same name received one Michelin star, Tell us something about you that home near Barvaux (). T. +1 604 879 7119 and Roger Soevereyns whose restaurant, would surprise those who know you. www.chambar.com Restaurant Scholtesh, earned three. Do you have an Oreo Cookie fetish, Where do you like to eat for example? when you visit ? What is the most popular Belgian No, sour gummy bears and Cola bottle I make it home every other year to see dish on your menu ? sweets! I also love raspberry jam on family, and always eat at Le Passage BART M. VANDAELE Vlaamse stoverij (carbonades flamandes), Gouda cheese or on peperkoek (Dutch (Uccle) and enjoy the wood-fired steak Bart M. Vandaele was born in Roeselare a with a special beer , spiced cake), but the rest of my fetishes at L’Etable in Barvaux. and studied in Bruges. He has held served with fries and . are for another conversation… various executive chef positions in Who has influenced the and Belgium and most Washington DC diners are fairly Belga Café your cooking the most? recently for the Dutch Ambassador sophisticated. Are they curious 514, 8th Street, SE My grandfather. He is a great lover to the US. “When I arrived 12 years ago, about Belgian cuisine or do they Washington DC, US of food and the ritual of dining - an I immediately knew I loved this place,” have preconceived notions ? T. + 1(202) 544 0100 aperitif, a great dinner followed by he says. We definitely have much more to offer www.belgacafe.com

66 – Together #10 October 08 Together – 67 EAT TOGETHER

Olive menu with founder Laurent Halasz allowed a complete new way of cooking.

How would you describe your style of cooking ? I try to keep a Mediterranean inspiration and touch, and try to find the right olive oils that will complete the dish perfectly.

In your opinion, what makes a great chef ? Simplicity. You don’t want too many flavours on the plate, but you want the right ones with the right ingredients.

Which cooking tools or gadgets are indispensable to you? I finally got a Berkel Manual Slicer - Pascal Lorange PASCAL LORANGE I now want one in all my restaurants. In , Pascal Lorange is a 3rd The customers love to see us cut generation Belgian chef, whose nephew prosciutto or jambon in front of them. The has just taken over the kitchen at L’Art Pacojet is also an amazing creation. It de Vivre in Spa, where all his relatives still makes fabulous ice cream and tapenade. live: “They are my breath of fresh air ; they give me a lot of energy.” Where do you see yourself in ten years ? What is your fondest food memory I lived for seven years in the Canary of Belgium ? Islands and loved it. I think I’ll end up My father always eats at Le Grillon in the south of or Spain, in Ostend. I love their croquettes de but I’m not ready for that yet. crevettes, and sole. It’s my favorite place to go when I come back to Belgium. Fig & Olive 808 Lexington Avenue Do your Belgian roots have 62nd-63rd Street an impact on your cooking style ? New York, NY 10021, US My style has definitely changed from T. +1(212) 207 4555 when I started. The creation of the Fig & www.figandolive.com

68 – Together #10

LAM_0816_AdResizes_Final.indd 1 6/17/08 3:13:18 PM THE MOST EXCLUSIVE LABELS

Nicolas De Visch NICOLAS De VISCH the ruler of Dubaï, ‘Your Majesty’ instead © Louis Lesko This young energetic chef, born in Braine of ‘Your Highness’ in front of everyone l’Alleud, Belgium, has clients clamouring when he visited my kitchen. to get into his restaurant in the Dordogne region of France. De Visch combines Who in your life has influenced the fine ingredients of the Périgord your cooking the most ? with world and the local seafood, Philippe Cassart, of Le Piano de Julien, inspired by his love of travel and years for my start in the job ; Atillio Basso as a chef at the opulent Burj Al Arab of Ecailler du Palais Royal, for a real taste Hotel in Dubai. of hard work ; Yves Mattagne, Sea Grill, Radisson SAS , for finesse. What is your fondest food memory of Belgium ? When you’re not working, what do Like everyone, my mother’s cooking - you do for fun? tarte au sucre, boulettes sauce tomate, I love playing football with my local team and croquettes aux and cycling. I also love to play Texas Hold crevettes ‘Em with my friend and neighbour, Russ.

How often to you get back Do your Belgian roots have an to Belgium to visit ? impact on your cooking style? I don’t go back that much, but at least As a Belgian, I love taking pleasure in life DE CONINCK Wine & Spirit Since 1886 once a year. We now have the line open and having the ability to laugh at oneself. Visit our cellars fom Thursday to Saterday from 10 AM to 19 PM between Bergerac airport and Charleroi. Belgian is not a style ; it’s a way of life. NEW I can’t wait to take a quick break after the season and fly over. La Brucelière Chée de Bruxelles 37 Avenue du Pesage 1 Avenue Orbanlaan 3 Place Cdt De Blockplein 21 Place de la Capelle 1410 Waterloo 1050 Ixelles 1150 Brussels 1780 Wemmel What’s the most embarrassing thing 24560 Issigeac, France Tél.: 02 353 07 65 Tél.: 02 640 44 65 Tél.: 02 772 40 65 Tél.: 02 460 44 65 that’s happened to you in a T. +33(0) 5537 38961 Fax.: 02 353 07 10 restaurant kitchen ? www.bruceliere.com Calling Sheikh Mohamed al Maktoum, [email protected] www.deconinckwine.com 70 – Together #10 WHERE NEWS & BUSINESS MEET GLAMOUR & GOOD TIMES #10 /OCTOBER 2008

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