Registered with the Reg. No. TN/CH(C)/374/15-17 Registrar of Newspapers Licenced to post without prepayment for under R.N.I. 53640/91 Licence No. TN/PMG(CCR)/WPP-506/15-17 Publication: 15th & 28th of every month Rs. 5 per copy (Annual Subscription: Rs. 100/-) WE CARE FOR MADRAS THAT IS INSIDE • Short ‘N’ Snappy • A trail of hope • Different villages • Canal chronology • The birth of MATSCIENCE

Vol. XXIV No. 19 MUSINGS January 16-31, 2015 Madras Landmarks highs and lows – 50 years ago

he water in it may be fairly (By The Editor) water levels in the canal even Tstagnant at least as far as during low tides, have mostly the city is concerned but, when to be undertaken if it is to be disintegrated. In any case these it comes to news about it, the made navigable for ferrying need to be replaced for they Buckingham Canal is full for passenger and industrial and were designed for much smaller highs and lows. Within the last agricultural produce. At a time vessels. But with the Centre fortnight we have had hearten- when the road network in the pledging Rs. 2000 crore for the ing and disappointing news – country is coming under great revival of inland waterways, all there are plans for its revitali- strain, the canal can be a viable this should not be an issue. sation and, at the same time, an alternative especially for goods What is needed is speedy execu- insensitive public is doing its that do not have to be trans- tion of the whole project. Much best to pollute the few surviving ported very quickly. It is to be will depend on whether the De- G Like many other firsts, Madras also holds the record for the first ever race pristine portions of the water noted that the Canal can serve tailed Project Report is com- meet in India. This was in 1780 and held on the Island. But it would appear that was the area earmarked for racing as early as in 1777 when 81 body. to transport nearly 15 million pleted as planned by June this cawnies of land was taken from the villages of Velacherry and Venkatapuram Late last December the Cen- tonnes of goods along its route. year. for the construction of a racecourse. tral Government announced The Centre’s survey will cover And now for the bad news. Almost from 1790 or so the Assembly Rooms on the racecourse were a land- that it was keen to revamp the the three States of , As is well known, our city has mark of the city. William and Thomas Daniell did a painting of the building in Canal, in particular the portion Andhra Pradesh and Pondi- been one of the major contribu- 1792. The racecourse stood to the left of the Assembly Rooms, where it still is, that runs between Chennai and cherry. tors to the destruction of this and according to the Daniells, “the amusement took place in the cool season, Yanam. This declaration was Preliminary studies have canal. Used as a sewage chan- when the ladies of the settlement are invited to a splendid ball.” Racing in the made on the occasion of the revealed that encroachments nel for long, the last nail on its early years began at six in the morning and ended by ten so that people could opening of the new regional and silting have narrowed the coffin was the construction of get to work. The sport received a setback during the Mysore Wars and was office of the Department of canal considerably along most the Mass Rapid Transport Sys- revived in 1804. Land amounting to 35 cawnies was added facilitating the Inland Waterways, located in of its route. Originally planned tem on the canal bed. That laying out of a second and smaller track meant for training horses. Vijayawada. It is learnt that a to be 32 metres wide, it is at blocked the waterway for good It is not clear as to who managed the races in the early years. The Madras comprehensive survey of the many places less than 6 metres. and destroyed all hopes of its Race Club was set up in 1837 and functioned till 1875 when the Prince of Canal will be taken up at the The depth which was to be revival. But with the MRTS Wales, afterwards Edward VII, visited it. It faded thereafter, to be revived in earliest. It is also understood maintained at 2.5 metres, is less running only within the old city 1887 by Lt. Col. George Moore, President of the Corporation of Madras. A than a metre now. The locks, new Madras Race Club came into existence in 1896, taking over the assets that the Centre is aware that limits and the canal extending and liabilities of the earlier one. considerable amount of moder- which at one time maintained nisation of the Canal will have (Also see page 6) (Continued on page 8) Racing suffered during the First World War but was revived in 1919 thanks to the efforts of the Governor, Lord Willingdon. The Bobbili and Venkatagiri stands were constructed a year later. The Guindy Lodge, built initially for the club Secretary, and now the home of the Madras Race Club proper, came up in 1931. The importance of An article on Guindy by the humorist S.V. Vijayaraghavachariar (SVV) appeared in at around the time and this is what it had to say: “Guindy is the place where races are held at stated seasons of the being smart year. On race days the whole city gets empty and congregates at the course, from HE the Governor of Madras down to Muniammal, the vegetable seller. A racecourse is the most democratic place in the t is just a fortnight since we digital signboards that give up- world. It would be nothing surprising if a Secretary to Government G Ibrought you the news that a by A Special dated information on bus ar- should take Muniammal aside and request her to whisper in his ears national magazine survey Correspondent rival timings. the name of the winner. And mind you, Muniammal knows the birth, placed Chennai at the top of Compare this with what is upbringing and idiosyncrasies of every horse that runs in the race even better than the owner himself. It is really staggering what an amount the chart on the liveability to report – out of 11.64 lakh happening in other cities – of money passes from the hands of visitors through the small apertures index. We now have the other property owners in the city only Bangalore is working overtime of the ticket-selling windows. Guindy is the bottomless sink into which side of the tale to tell – when it 70,000 pay their taxes online, to meet its self-imposed dead- all the wealth, earned or borrowed in the city, disappears without comes to the digital divide. 10 per cent of electricity con- line of installing GPS in all leaving a trace behind.” Chennai ranks very low on sumers pay their bills online and 6,500 of its buses within this SVV may have felt it was classless but going to the races was considered a Internet connectivity and also out of 7.35 lakh buildings with year, Ahmedabad is setting up social grace in the upper echelons of society till at least the late 1960s. This was facilities that are available water connections, just about clusters where free internet also the time when certain well-known figures of Madras society cut a dash at online. 60,000 use the online payment connectivity will be available the turf – M.A. Chidambaram (MAC) and the Janab Ravu Janardhana This finding has come to facility. The record when it and Delhi police is working Krishna Ranga Rao, the Zamindar of Chikkavaram, being two such. MAC light following the expiry of the comes to public transport is wonders on mobile applications was to be steward for long and it was at his initiative that classic races were deadline set by the Centre for even worse – out of 3,600 buses for smart phone users – there is introduced in Madras in the 1950s. In 1953 he united the five race clubs of the States to nominate their an app to report lost property South India – Madras, Mysore, Bangalore, Hyderabad and Ooty – and formed plying in Chennai, only 50 have the Southern India Turf Club which, once again thanks to him, was recognised smart cities. A national daily global positioning systems and there is another one for by the Royal Calcutta Turf Club and the Royal Western India Turf Club. In based outside of Chennai has (GPS) installed and out of 1800 some rather depressing statistics bus stops just a handful have (Continued on page 8) (Continued on page 6) CMYK 2 MADRAS MUSINGS January 16-31, 2015 Pleas against posters he Man from Madras Once you have climbed to T Musings was delighted to the top, it is best that you tarry see the latest initiative by the a while. This is to let your Corporation of Chennai. It has heart rest and get its beat rate put up signboards all along the down to normal. Most vehicles Eco-friendly dry toilets He now adds: flyovers, after it has finished pause here anyway, for at a n Madras Musings, Febru- These cylindrical monobloc painting them a garish green particular spot on the summit, ary 1, 2005, I wrote,” says concrete latrines can be modi- which, incidentally, is said to they attain a kind of equilib- “I be the favourite colour of those rium, with the entire chassis reader K.V.S. Krishna: “The fied by Industry for use in estates, industry or villages with who matter. These signboards poised evenly as on a fulcrum. plantation companies in South request those who paste post- You can also get a good view India have long been providing bore hole or flush-out latrines ers on public walls to think of the scenery of the surround- latrines for workers according to for Indian style or even West- before they do so, for the ing countryside. But then all the Plantation Labour Act. ern style system. flyover has been painted with good things have to come to an Additionally, they can be the money that comes from the end. You can’t stay on for too “For example, dry-pit la- prefabricated and transported taxes paid by those who paste long anyway for those behind trines are provided by the man- to site and installed within a day posters. Thus far, the appeal will be coming up and wanting appears to have had its effect, their share of the air at the top. agement. A later version has a or two, even a few hundreds of 1.5’ to 1.75’ bore hole dug for the flyovers that MMM is And so you begin the descent. them at a time. familiar with have remained Signboard at a flyover Here again it is advised that all manually to a depth of 15’ or Each district can have poster-free. leading the battle against post- regulations that apply to a 20’. On top of this is mounted a several “Government Con- However, MMM does have ers? MMM is certain that the roller coaster need to be cylindrical concrete monobloc various publishing houses of trolled Manufacturing” units, so some differences of opinion followed. Expectant mothers, latrine which usually has a 36” with those who came up with the city definitely pay their elderly people or those with as to reduce cost of transport internal diameter and is 6’ high, this idea for deterring the taxes but when it comes to lumbar or cardiac problems and cost of each unit. putting up posters their record with the top and bottom con- poster nuisance. Firstly, do are advised to say their those who actually paste post- is not particularly edifying. The prayers, as also those who are crete slabs fused together. The Fixing 500 million units in a year will not be difficult, but ers on walls pay any taxes? latest issues of the vernacular susceptible to motion sick- bottom has an opening aligned magazines in particular are creating a manufacturing base Highly unlikely is MMM’s ness. The only advantage in to the bore. view for these are the people widely advertised by means of coming down is that it is in over 1000 districts or more who belong to the fringes of posters and these are to be invariably quick and you can “These cylindrical mobile needs a proper plan, which our society. And so how does the found everywhere. always see what lies ahead of toilets can be refixed, after the engineers can easily do. Corporation aim to protect Lastly, by putting up this you, which is not always the bore is filled with sullage, on a Private enterprises too can public walls from them? Sec- signboard, is the Corporation case during the ascent. But stating that public property new bore within minutes. be encouraged to do this with ondly, do those people who there is one thrill that awaits When the second bore is filled, commission these posters pay alone is to be spared of posters you as you come down. The suitable monitoring. Then there and private walls can be used the first bore can be cleared of any taxes? That too is highly area beside the speed breaker are those special movable toilets debatable. The biggest offend- with impunity? That is a matter being at a lower level, a night soil (used as manure) and mounted on ploughs for farms ers are the political variety, and to ponder over. But having said considerable amount of water refixed on the same bore hole. to convert faecal matter to “These cylindrical toilets can night soil, a useful way to add be made with just two bags of organic matter to the soil. cement, jally, sand and steel This was implemented SHORT ’N’ SNAPPY rods for reinforcement. In 1975, during the 1970s in Central they cost Rs. 150 when normal Travancore. toilets cost Rs. 350-400. K.V.S. Krishna 2A, Parkland Apartments these are largely men and all that, MMM is of the view accumulates at the base when- “The dry pit toilets can also Kamala Bai Street women from outstation who that the latest signs are very ever it rains. You therefore not be made with Indian-style seats T. Nagar, Chennai 600 017 spend money on posters and much an improvement on the only descend with a splash, for wet use. The sullage is cutouts featuring their city- old ‘Stick No Bills’ or ‘Those you also liberally douse any- cleared as in the dry toilet by Poster culture based political top bosses. The Pasting Posters will be one else who is around. All posters of the film industry Prosecuted’. this for free. To think people having two bores, five feet bout ten years back the closely follow these. There were paying through their apart, and two drain pipes at- Awalls along again, taxes are a sensitive sub- Driving up, and down nose at aqua themed parks for tached to each of them. How- from Junction to ject. Next come the posters the same kind of experience. ever, where contamination of Golf course were painted featuring the dear departed. he Man from Madras Given that ours is a welfare soil is likely, a septic tank can beautifully and I used to stand These posters, depicting two T Musings has in the past state, it was but to be expected and enjoy their aesthetic weeping eyes around a photo lamented about the state of the that the powers that be would be specially designed to recover speed breakers on our city beauty. They depicted the rural of the deceased, are again give us, apart from food, gas, the sullage as manure. sensitive subjects. MMM roads. The lack of standardi- medicine, entertainment and ambience of Tamil Nadu. “One particular design that I expects those who order print sation in curve, slope, width information, some good clean Gradually they got washed away and texture has been dealt with saw years ago was the Chinese runs on this theme to be so fun also for free. by rains and atmospheric grief stricken that taxes are in detail. So also has the lack of Once you are on the model of a mobile toilet meant pollution. At that point of time perhaps the last topic on their markings to indicate that a ground there is no time to for rural areas. The toilet is the walls of Golf course were minds. MMM however is not speed breaker is lurking on a relax, for these speed breakers particularly dark stretch of mounted on a plough so as to permanent urinal spot and so sure of those posters that were evidently designed by are put up to commemorate road. But before you go on to those who specialised in open a furrow. After use, the people used to stop their bikes toilet is pulled 1.5’-2’ forwards the first (and second and third the next article with a muttered putting up amusement parks and cycles and ease themselves comment about how MMM so that the faecal matter is cov- and so on) anniversary of the with thrilling rides. More often on those spots. deceased. has lost it and is repeating him- than not, another of the same ered by fresh soil. Everytime the Now these walls have been A new variety of offenders self, lend him your eyes a little, kind follows this sort of a toilet is used, it is moved for- taken over by the cinema and is the Sabha or classical music for MMM now writes of the speed breaker at a very short ward by about two feet. A fam- political posters.The walls along organisation. MMM is rather new kind of speed breaker that distance. Like the animals in ily of five can get it to move 12- puzzled as to what joy the has manifested itself. Noahs ark, these go about in Chamiers Road upto Turnbull secretary of a Sabha gets by MMM is fairly sure that you two and two. 14 feet a day, or 4,500 feet a flyover have the maximum year. This system saves water, putting up posters of artistes have come across it. It is broad Oh, yes, and before MMM disfiguration. Cinema stars and which are then chewed by our unlike the earlier ones that signs off on this story let him does not produce sullage but re- political leaders who have four-legged brethren or uri- were sharply curved. But such warn you. There is still no sults in field manure and there joined the Clean India nated upon by the two-legged is its width that it gives you the standardisation on the mark- is no room for groundwater con- campaign with great fanfare can variety. But this is a recent feeling that you are climbing up ings for these speed breakers. a hill. If you are in a car, every- tamination. perhaps do something to bring trend. MMM doubts if tax is a Several become evident only relevant topic in this industry one is thrown back as the when you hit them and your “The agricultural engineer- about a better sense of aware- too. It is notorious for low fees vehicle makes the ascent. If vehicle rises sharply in the air. ing departments attached to ag- ness.This wall poster culture at least on paper by which you are on a two-wheeler and If you do experience this, it is riculture colleges can reinvent appears to be unique to Tamil MMM does not mean poster you hit the up slope with some best to keep your seat belt this mechanism. Obviously, this Nadu, unlike to other parts. paper. speed, chances are that you fastened and pray for freedom system can only be used in farms What of the media which take off like a rocket and land from air turbulence. T. Santhanam rightfully speaking ought to be in the next postal district. – MMM and rural areas.” [email protected] January 16-31, 2015 MADRAS MUSINGS 3 A trail of hope The name Jealous irginia smiles in perfect understanding when you, like a mil he opening lines in The more about Laurence Hope. He worldliness about her; yet her Vlion before you probably, ask about her extremely unusual TChief’s Madras Miscellany travelled in the Middle East, I direct, searing gaze must have surname. column in The Hindu Metroplus remember, and he became disconcerted the men around “My father spent some time tracing family history, and supplement of December 15, friends with an Indian gentle- her, used to perhaps very differ- compiling the family tree,” she replies. “He had a theory of how 2014 read: ‘When Virginia man, Partha, a friendship that ent treatment. Her nickname we came by this name, and believed it may have come to England Jealous speaks to members of lasted for more than 25 years. I was ‘Violet’, thanks to her vio- in the 17th century with the Huguenots, who were craftsmen in the Madras Book Club this think it was Partha who intro- let eyes. She wore her hair in wood, well known as lattice makers in particular. ‘Lattice’ in evening she might report that duced my parents to the works fringe bangs, and wore bangles, French is ‘jalousie’, so perhaps the name grew out of a midst all the tall grass in the of writers from India.” sarees, and was mostly comfort- profession, which in time may have morphed into ‘Jealous’. It is unkempt St. Mary’s Cemetery Virginia, who is described as able reclining, barefoot, on a a good story, isn’t it? Better than being given this name because you were a jealous person!!” she laughs. on The Island she found the someone who ‘lives out of a sofa, while smoking. A search through Wikipedia reveals that slats, or louvers, in tombstones of Adele Florence suitcase’, has travelled exten- She also liked dressing up windows, called ‘Jalousie’ in France, not only kept out harsh Nicolson and Lieutenant Gen- sively, written guide books for like a Pathan Boy. sunlight, but also the gaze of jealous, prying eyes – la jalousie, eral Malcolm Nicolson.’ Lonely Planet, and published No one knows why she chose probably so named as they permitted one to see without being And, as life and luck would essays and collections of poetry. this particular pseudonym. But seen. have it, that’s precisely what Hidden World, a compilation choose she had to, given that it The Chief, overhearing this conversation, points out that we travel writer, poet and essayist, of her poems which grew out of just wasn’t okay back then for a use the word ‘jaali’ here. Virginia Jealous, announced a three-month Asialink writing woman to write the way she The Laurence Hope effect – everything connected with her – that evening at the Madras residency in India in 2012, was wrote. seems to lead to further information-seeking quests. Book Club event. published by Hallowell Press in Laurence Hope, says Vir- – RA It’s great when Life decides 2013. ginia, was “extraordinarily fa- Virginia has presented talks mous” by 1901. to show off, revealing its ability at-home British imagined India to evoke that perfect touch of and participated in writers’ fes- By 1904, she was dead. Recalling certain lines in tivals in India, Singapore and The couple, having realised Laurence Hope’s poems, which to be like. drama that reinforces Human- Laurence Hope was the kind’s eternal belief that there Australia. that they were most at home in speak of a lonely place with sun- Laurence Hope was the ‘sec- India, left their only son in En- shine and the sea, Veronica says highest selling poet in the early are such things as ‘special mo- part of the 20th century, in both ments’… unscripted, sudden, ond love’ of her father’s life, says gland, as was the practice in she had to fight back tears while Virginia. those times, and settled down walking around the property, UK and in USA, the music add- miraculous even… or just plain ing a lease of life to her poetry. fun. Hope’s last collection of po- near Calicut. Tragedy then gazing at tiles dating back to more than a century, imagining Then, in 1945, she disappeared In the past few weeks, much ems, published by Heinemann, struck, with a routine surgery Laurence Hope walking on from the scene. The world has been written, both here in was put together in 1904 in going horribly wrong, resulting them. Tender passion seems to changed, and she went out of Madras Musings and elsewhere, Madras. in the General’s death. Friends follow the poet, now in the form fashion. on Virginia Jealous, her father Her work dealt with passion, in Madras looked after Adele, of graffiti on the old walls, tell- Perhaps what keeps the in- John Jealous, and the latter’s at- sex, loss, death, longing and for- tried to comfort her. But on 4th ing of tales of love in the present terest going is the fact that so tempts to unearth the story of time: “Arjun loves so-and-so very little is known about her. Raj-days poet ‘Laurence Hope’, forever….” She has always been a mystery, a pseudonym used by Adele G by Ranjitha Ashok Hope’s most famous poem: so theories and rumours Florence Nicolson – yes, we’re Kashmiri Song was set to music abound. Of affairs. Of possible up to speed on all of that. bidden love. A 1910 review uses October 1904, at 4.30 pm she around 1902 by Amy Wood- lesbian relationships. Her best Now, your own connect with forde-Finden, a composer well- known poem had people specu- Laurence Hope is almost non- the words ‘feverish abandon’ to committed suicide, swallowing describe her writing. mercury. A verdict of suicide, known for her ability to link di- lating about a fling with a existent. Almost, because, verse cultures through music, young, unknown Kashmiri. without having a clue about Here are some lines from her ‘while insane’ was brought in. poem, Afridi Love: She was 39. and from then on till 1945, the Somerset Maugham based his their origin, you have come story, ‘The Colonel’s Lady’ on Some one who took last night his She was buried in St Mary’s, song was heard in tea houses across the words: ‘Pale Hands I her life and work. Over the fill of pleasure, Madras, next to her husband. and parlours, becoming a Loved Beside the Shalimar…’, years, there has been some As I took mine at dawn! The knife While John Jealous, back in drawing room standard. The the opening line of her most fa- Chief, in his welcome address, imaginative writing on her, like mous poem, ‘Kashmiri Song’. went home ’89, had found well-tended Straight through his heart! God recalls hearing the song in ‘That Bloody Female Poet (a Except that it was through a graves, Virginia, in 2014, found book before Google)’ by Tim only knows my rapture the going more difficult, and London. character in a P.G. Wodehouse, Rudolph Valentino has sung Orchard. as he ‘…sat in the bath tub Bathing my chill hands in the had to search for the graves ex- warm red foam. it. And now Finden’s great- Her son, Malcolm, did in- soaping a meditative foot, and tensively, with the help of Raja herit her effects. With access to who, by one more of those play- granddaughter sings a modern singing, if I remember it cor- You can’t help thinking this version. early manuscripts, he wrote a rectly, ‘Pale Hands I loved be- must have raised eyebrows in ful coincidences, happens to be play based on his mother’s life, the son of the old caretaker who The years haven’t reduced side the Shalimar,….’ hardly a Edwardian London. the poignancy of the words. The ‘An Unusual Woman’. deeply revealing introduction. Laurence Hope was born had once helped her father. She A very reclusive person, finally found them on the morn- longing remains, sighing that That evening, the Book Adele Florence Cory in 1865. while love never goes, it can, Malcolm Nicolson moved to Club meet was about Virginia’s Her father was Colonel Arthur ing of December 15, 2014…. Majorca. not so well-tended this time. and does, go horribly wrong. journey, a daughter’s tribute to Cory, employed in the British And Laurence Hope prefers Years later, the BBC tried to Virginia admits that her fa- her father’s magnificent obses- Army at Lahore, where he was Death to Farewell. make a documentary on the life ther had died before her own sion, following his trail, tracing editor of the Lahore arm of The Pale hands I loved beside the of Laurence Hope, but with no interest in this search peaked. the life of Adele Florence Civil and Military Gazette. Shalimar, success. Virginia admits there You get the feeling that this Nicolson, aka Laurence Hope. Her sister, Annie Sophie Where are you now? Who lies appears to have been a certain search seems to be as much for John Jealous first came to Cory, went on to becoming the beneath your spell? ‘Family Silence’ firmly in place. her father as it is for the long Madras in 1989 on the trail of author of racy, exotic novels, Whom do you lead on Rapture's Malcolm died last year – in gone poet. Laurence Hope, and had, in under the pseudonym ‘Victoria roadway, far, his 80s. His care-giver, fact, found her grave, alongside Cross(e)’. You are told of Dunmore Before you agonise them in fare- Alejandro, inherited all the her husband’s, during that visit. This seems to have been a House, here in , where well? documents, with little idea Looking back, how did this family that created, for its time, Adele and her husband lived I would have rather felt you round what to do with all the unpub- particular obsession ever begin? an amazingly supportive envi- briefly. The house no longer ex- my throat, lished material he found in “I went to live in Australia ronment for its rather remark- ists, and part of the property Crushing out life, than waving me boxes in the attic. in ’83, and my father wasn’t re- able daughters. surrounding it became, decades farewell! Virginia and Alejandro are ally interested in Laurence In her early 20s, Adele met later, Venus Studios, and is now now in touch with each other. Hope back then,” Virginia Jeal- and married the much older Venus Colony. You can’t help The poem first appeared in “I have all the facts without ous, in a pretty floral kurta, is Lieutenant General Malcolm thinking Laurence Hope, given Hope's first collection of poems, objects, and he had all the ob- relaxed, smiling….she’s just fin- Nicolson, well into his 40s. Sta- the central motif in her work, ‘The Garden of Kama (1901)’, jects without the facts.” ished addressing the Madras tioned in India, she appears to would have been amused by the also known as India's Love Lyr- Virginia plans to go to Book Club. A friend remarks have re-defined the term: happy aptness of this name. ics. The illustrations that ac- Majorca. Her father’s dream of that Virginia reminds her a bit ‘Army wife’. A photograph in Virginia followed the trail to companied her work were done writing a book on his pet obses- of Meryl Streep. “But, by about Virginia’s audio-visual presen- Calicut, and found their house, by people with little or no expe- sion was never fulfilled…. the late 80s, he was obsessed tation shows a woman with a 10km out of town, using a 1995 rience of India, and so were full with the thought of finding out certain air of remote other- sketch made by her stepmother. of stereotypes of what the stay- (Continued on page 6) 4 MADRAS MUSINGS January 16-31, 2015 January 16-31, 2015 MADRAS MUSINGS 5 Why can’t Tamil Nadu villages aim to be like these?

G India, having an agro-based economy, depends the most on its There are, however, increasing examples of villages that are villages for growth. The gaon always has a distinct nostalgic charm. different. These ten villages featured here could even make metros But as India becomes urbanised, the villages are, unfortunately, blush. Can’t Tamil Nadu villages emulate these, showing examples deteriorating. Poverty, lack of education, lack of sanitation, etc. are of rural progress? what we now associate with villages. Tamil Nadu, despite its rating – THE EDITOR as one of the best States in the country, is no exception to this. (Dr. Y. Ramalinga Sarma sent us this feature which he states was sourced from BABA-MAIL)

Mawlynnong – Asia’s cleanest village Punsari – the village with WiFi, CCTVs, AC classrooms and more Mawlynnong, a small village in Meghalaya, was awarded the prestigious tag of ‘Cleanest Village in Punsari, in Gujarat, puts most metros to shame. Funded by the Indian Government and the village’s Asia’ in 2003 by Discover India magazine. Located at about 90 km from Shillong, the village offers a own funding model, Punsari is no NRI-blessed zone. The village also boasts of a mini-bus commute skywalk for you to take in the beauty as you explore it. According to visitors, you cannot find a single system and various other facilities. – (Source: Dainik Bhaskar). cigarette butt/plastic bag lying around anywhere.– (Source: Flickr).

Hiware Bazar – The village of 60 millionaires Dharnai – First fully solar-powered village Chappar – a village that distributes sweets when a girl is born Korkrebellur – A village that really loves its birds Hiware Bazar, in the Ahmednagar district of Maharashtra, has transformed from being a place Dharnai, a village in Bihar, beat 30 years of darkness by developing its own solar-powered system for Chappar village in Haryana has a woman Sarpanch. But Neelam is no ordinary Sarpanch. She has Korkrebellur, a small village in Karnataka, believes in the conservation of nature. While most other fraught with issues to being possibly the richest village in India. The sole reason for this fairy-tale change electricity. With the aid of Greenpeace, Dharnai declared itself an energy-independent village last July. made it her life’s mission to change the attitude of the villagers towards women, and she has succeeded. villages consider birds a nuisance because they harm crops, Kokrebellur boasts of rare species of birds is one man called Popatrao Pawar. He banned all addictive substances to minimise expense and encour- Students no longer need to limit their studies to daytime, women no longer limit themselves to stepping Not only do the women of the village not wear the ghunghat any more, but despite Haryana being the that fly around and don’t even mind humans much. The villagers treat their winged compatriots as aged the villagers to invest in rainwater harvesting, milch cattle, etc. There are a record 60 millionaires out only in the day in this village of 2400 residents. (Source: Greenpeace). State with the lowest girls ratio (an abysmal 877), every newborn in this village, regardless of its sex, is family and have even created an area for wounded birds to rest and heal. (Source: Flickr). in the village and barely any poor. From 168 Below Poverty Line families in 1995, Hiware Bazar now welcomed into the world with sweets and festivities (Source: Youth Connect Mag). has just three. The villagers continue to strive to see a day when not one person is poor (Source: Hiware Bazar).

Ballia – the village that beat arsenic poisoning with indigenous method Pothanikkad – The village with a 100% literacy rate Bekkinakeri – the village that rid itself of open defecation by Shani Shingnapur – A village so safe that people don’t need doors Ballia village of Uttar Pradesh had an itchy problem to deal with. The water that the villagers were Unsurprisingly, in Kerala, Pothanikkad village was the first in the country to achieve a 100% lit- ‘greeting’ lota-bearers Shani Shingnapur, in Maharashtra, is a village that defies every newspaper report you have ever drinking contained arsenic, which caused serious skin problems and even physical deformation. What is eracy rate. Not only does the village boast of city-standard high schools, but it also has primary schools Bekkinakeri village in Karnataka has redefined the point of wishing someone a ‘Good morning’. read. Touted as the safest village in India, this place is known for its lack of doors to houses. Not just arsenic, you ask? A harmless element on its own, but when combined with oxygen or water, it turns and private schools. Guess the number of people the village has educated? Well, according to the 2001 Frustrated with the practice of open defecation, the village council attempted to curb it by requesting that, there is no police station in the village. And Shani Shingnapur has ‘broken’ another interesting toxic. Ironically, the village faced the problem after the government introduced many hand-pumps in the census, there are 17,563 residents living in the village and all of them are considered literate! (Source: people not to do so. When that didn't work, they stationed themselves early morning near ‘popular’ record. The village has now the country's first lockless bank branch (UCO Bank). (Source: Woman area for easy water access. The level at which the hand-pumps were dug led to excessive interaction Deokothamangalam). defecation sites and wished every perpetrator a very good morning. The trick worked! Too embarrassed Planet). between arsenic and water. When the villagers realised what had happened, instead of waiting for the to go on with their business, the openly defecating population has now stopped the practice completely government to act on it, they (physically) fixed their old wells and went back to an older, safer time. (Source: World Bank). (Source: The Better India). 6 MADRAS MUSINGS January 16-31, 2015 Madras How the Buckingham Landmarks (Continued from page 1) 1966 the SITC was broken up when Canal was born it was felt that Madras and Banga- lore could be independently run and the Madras Race Club became a turf authority by itself. It was also under n 1800, the Government (the Board of Revenue) was anxious to 1854 First lock at (near ) MAC that modernised tote machines Ibuild a navigable canal from Ennore to Madras by connecting 1857 Reaches Durgarayapatnam (Armagaon), 112 km. were imported from Australia and many large and small water bodies, utilising the seasonal river 1876 Reaches Krishnapatnam, 147 km. installed in Madras, a first in the Elambore. Certain people who had a monopoly in the salt trade 1877 Reaches Pennar River (famine period), 182 km. country. showed interest, but the Governor was not in favour. However, 1878 Reaches Peddaganjam – connecting Krishna-Godavari The biggest setback to racing in Ma- dras came in August 1974 when the the project was advertised in the Gazette of December 1801. Canal, 297 km then State Government through an A person called Heefke responded to the advertisement and its Extended upto in Madras ordinance banned it on the grounds conditions, which allowed him to collect a reasonable toll for 45 Called “North Canal” – length 315 km (196 miles) that speculation over it caused the years, apart from enjoying some other privileges from the Govern- ruin of common folk. Statues were ment. South Canal erected on both sides of the Anna The inception of the Canal was thus due to a private enterprise. 1857 A new canal excavated from towards Flyover to commemorate this. But in In 1801, Heefke, with one Basil Cochrane as security, obtained a Papanchavadi and further south, joining large water 1978 the Supreme Court struck concession from the Government. He commenced the excavation bodies, 56 km. down the ordinance. There was a of a canal, for small craft, from the northwest Blacktown wall 1878 Papanchavadi to Palar River (Sadras) completed. scare in the 1980s when the betting 1882 Reaches Marakkanam lake, 123 km activities were taken over by the Gov- through strips of land and shallow backwaters from Madras to ernment of Tamil Nadu’s Racing Ennore, a distance of 11 miles. 1882 Named ‘Buckingham Canal’. 1883 Construction of flood gates and diversion canals. Department and talks of a ban re- The work was finished in 1806 by Cochrane who, in 1802, had sumed. An arbitration panel ap- obtained the entire control of the Canal. This portion was named 1897 Locks construction. pointed by the Supreme Court voted Cochrane’s Canal. This canal was soon afterwards extended by him 1900 The whole canal (420 km) becomes navigable. Total in favour of continuing racing and it to Lake, 25 miles north of Ennore. length 257 km in Andhra Pradesh and 163 km in Tamil has since functioned unimpeded. The canal remained the property of Cochrane till 1837, when Nadu. Litigation concerning various aspects 1877 Link canal from Cooum River to Adyar River. Famine of horseracing, however, remains period. 8 km. endemic to the Club. G Several people have over the years wanted Racing is conducted in Madras accurate details about the Buckingham Buckingham Canal Locks mainly from November to March. A Canal. D.H. RAO, who has been delving in smaller monsoon season, ranging the archival records, provides the detailed North Canal from August to October has been story of the Buckingham Canal. recently initiated. Around 540 horses Name of lock/ Distance from Madras Year are registered with the Club. The location (miles-furlongs) Madras Race Club is also indepen- Sadayankuppam dently a thriving social club with he left India, leaving its management to Arbuthnot & Co. It was (near Ennore) 7 1854 (abandoned many amenities. Sadly, the original then taken over by the Government, who paid Cochrane in 1895) Assembly Rooms, which survived till Rs. 14,061 a year till 1847, the date of expiry of his lease. Govern- Ennore lake (south) 10-2 1886 the 1990s, were demolished despite ment then paid him compensation and took over the canal. In Ennore lake (north) 11-3 1889 pleas from heritage conservationists. 1852, extensive improvements to the existing line of canal and Chintamani 19-7 Imagine destroying what the Daniells further northward extension were undertaken. In 1854 the first Pulicat (south) 27-1 once painted! lock was built at Sadayankuppam. By 1857, the canal had been Pulicat (north) extended to Durgarayapatnam, 69 miles north of Madras. It was Locks then called the East Coast Canal. Pambli 65-3 At the same time, a new canal was excavated from the Adyar Swarnamukhi (south) 75- 2 A trail of River southwards for a distance of 35 miles from Madras by joining Swarnamukhi (north) 75- 4 the backwaters along the coast. Kandaleru (south) 90-1 hope By 1876, the North Canal had been extended to Krishnapat- Kandaleru (north) 92-5 nam, 92 miles from Madras. The next year, a fresh impetus was Kodur (south) 101- 4 (Continued from page 3) given to extending the canal as a measure of famine relief to the Kodur (north) 101-4 poor, and the canal was extended up to the Pennar River, 114 Pennar (south) 114-1 Virginia hopes to complete the miles north of Madras. About the same time, the Junction Canal Pennar (north) 115-4 task, bringing closure for John was excavated, within Madras city, to connect the Cooum and Pyderu (south) 123-6 Jealous’s quest. Adyar Rivers, the starting points of the North and South Canals Pyderu (north) 123-7 The audio-visual presenta- respectively. The extension of the canal to the northern limit at Isakapalli (south) 125-7 tion ends with an image of Peddaganjam was completed in 1878, and its extension to the Isakapalli (north) 126-7 Laurence Hope’s hands. southern limit at Marakkanam was completed in 1882. The canal Chippaleru (south) 132-6 was then renamed the Buckingham Canal. Chippaleru (north) 132-7 The poet also liked to paint, Soon after the completion of the excavation of the entire canal, Elikeru (south) 150-6 and her hands appear strong, it was found that it was fit only for navigation at high tide by small Elikeru (north) 151-0 yet sensitive…artistic, creative craft. This state of affairs necessitated an entire reconsideration of Manneru (south) 158-7 hands. the design. Between 1883 and 1891, flood gates and diversion ca- Manneru (south) 159-7 John Jealous, says Virginia, nals in some places were added. By the end of 1897, locks had been Manneru (north) 160-4 was equally fixated on India, constructed along the whole length of the Canal, with provision Paleru 168-0 and admits she carries a certain for passing upland drainages across the Canal, so as to retain a Musi 169-7 ‘colonial baggage’. India, for surface water level approximating the level of the highest prevail- Mudigondi 183-2 her, is both ‘beautiful and ter- ing tide. Gundlakamma 187-1 rible’. When the Canal was completed it was approximately 265 miles Romperu 194-7 (31 locks) “You have so much history (420 km) long. Link Canal and, at the same time, you are A chronology Cooum River – Adyar River barrelling into the future … visitors have to absorb all of it North Canal Cooum River – behind uty. 1901 in one day.” 1800-02 Preparations for a navigable canal by Government. Adyar River – Greenways Virginia tells the Madras 1802 Heefke given the work to ‘cut’ a canal from Ennore to MRTS Station (north) 1884 Book Club: “I was so happy to Madras. Work starts from northwest bastion of Black South Canal find the grave today. It was as if Town wall towards Ennore River. Adyar river (south) she wanted to be found,” and 1806 Reaches Ennore Lake and then Pulicat Lake, 40 km. (Sadras lock) 5-5 1883 adds that while the work of this 1837 Cochrane leaves India, but continues to get lease Lattice Bridge truly unusual woman was natu- amount through his agents, Arbuthnot & Co. (north) 20-0 rally of her time, in her poems 1847 Government takes over Canal. Covelong (south) 23-0 East and West did mingle... the (Continued on page 8) twain did meet. January 16-31, 2015 MADRAS MUSINGS 7

G NOSTALGIA The birth of Matscience (Continued from last academic trips around the bilist, I was only a novice in fortnight) world and it was to prove the relativistic quantum mechan- Author with Professor Neils Bohr. most significant and influential ics. I wanted to learn from the lmost from the start of his called upon to undertake at Los trip in his carreer. high powered seminars (at they would win the Nobel Prize, tenure at the University of Alamos a task unprecedented A The trip began in February Princeton) rather than go which they did that year. Madras, Prof. Alladi Rama- in its objective, undefined in its 1956 with a six-week stay at the through the grinding mill of Einstein, the most cel- krishnan actively participated scope, unpredictable in its famous Yukawa Hall in Kyoto, graduate courses. My ambition ebrated of the members of the in several conferences through- consequences – the creation of which was the Institute headed was to be realised a year later Institute, had died in 1955, and out India. At one of the meet- the atom bomb. It was a leap by Nobel Laureate Hideki when I received from him a gra- so Father did not get an oppor- ings of the Indian Academy of into the unchartered future of Yukawa. The atmosphere of cious invitation.” tunity to meet him. Instead he Sciences he presented a talk on mankind and he achieved it Yukawa Hall with its steady From Rochester Father went got to meet Robert Oppen- his new work on Inverse Prob- with the pragmatism of an stream of eminent visiting to Boston and then to Chicago heimer whose presence domi- ability. Sir C.V. Raman, American and the vision of a scientists, and the inspiration to meet the great astrophysicist nated most of the seminars. In founder of the Academy, was universalist. Tormented by they provided to the many Chandrasekhar. Although his Diary, Ramakrishnan impressed by the presentation, moral ambiguities, he found his young Japanese scientists, Father had corresponded with describes his contact with Opp- and so, in 1954, had him pro- haven at the Institute for greatly influenced Prof. Rama- Chandrasekhar and had pub- enheimer at the Institute: “My posed for election as Fellow of Advanced Study, the environ- krishnan. During the speech lished papers in the Astrophysi- meeting with Oppenheimer the Indian Academy of Sci- fulfilled my expectations about ment to which he belonged...” ences. Within a few weeks Fa- this legendary figure who domi- The one year in Princeton ther received a letter from Sir nated not only American exposed Ramakrishnan to the Raman informing him of his KRISHNASWAMI ALLADI describes the science, but influenced the des- revolutionary developments in election as Fellow. story of the birth of MATSCIENCE, The tiny of the world as the archi- elementary particle physics, and To inspire his students, and Institute of Mathematical Sciences, the tect of the atom bomb. Lean the opportunity to hear about to strengthen his own research efforts of his father, Professor Alladi and of medium height, he had these developments in seminars programme, Ramakrishnan was Ramakrishnan, and the role of his Theo- an oval head, prominent cheek delivered by the makers of keen to get eminent physicists retical Physics Seminar in the creation bones and piercing eyes. He modern physics. In addition, he from overseas to visit the Uni- of this Institute in Madras on January 3, could pick his men while light- had also the opportunity to visit versity of Madras. 1962. ing his pipe, each for the ap- other centres of learning and In 1954-55, three world pointed task according to his make further new contacts that famous physicists who were talent and inclination, from a helped his own research pro- visiting India came to Madras Nobel prizeman to a truck gramme and the career of his given by Ramakrishnan some cal Journal, it was his first meet- for lectures and spent time at driver. He was magnanimous in students. years later at the inauguration ing with Chandrasekhar. his family home for leisurely and providing opportunities for In April 1958 after having of MATSCIENCE, he said: “In There, at the University, he prolonged discussions on mod- young scientists, and enjoyed been infected with the seminar the ’domestic’ environment of heard Chandrasekhar’s lecture ern physics. They were Nobel discussions at every seminar spirit at the Institute for Ad- the Yukawa Hall, young Japa- on radiation theory and was Laureates P. A. M. Dirac and C. where his very presence invited vanced Study, Father returned nese physicists, the hope and struck by his thoroughness in F. Powell, and Sir Mark Oli- impartial criticism... to India full of visions to create pride of their country, just preparing even regular seminar phant. “His intellectual interests in Madras a centre for advanced resurrected from the second lectures. Chandra, as he was In December 1954, Professor ranged from theoretical physics learning that would have the World War, gathered together popularly known, took Father Dirac, one of the greatest physi- to Hindu philosophy, and in spirit of Princeton. This dream in enlightened leisure to discuss to Yerkes Observatory where he cists of the 20th Century, gave Rabi’s estimate he understood that began in Fall 1958 and the most abstruse problems of worked with a team of observa- a lecture at Senate House of the the whole structure of physics became a reality four years later modern physics. That strange tional astronomers to confirm . The with absolute clarity....It was through the Theoretical Physics enchantment... (made me) play his scientific theories. Senate House overflowed and said that he had two passions – Seminar that he conducted at with the idea of creating some- This academic tour had a many listeners heard the lecture physics and the desert! He Ekamra Nivas. thing like the Yukawa Hall in profound effect on Father’s ca- on loudspeakers while in their found the one in the other my own home town. reer and research, as well as on (To be continued) cars on the parking lot! Dirac when at the age of forty he was was the first international From California, Ramakrish- his PhD students. physicist to visit our family nan flew to Rochester to partici- * * * home. pate in the High Energy Physics In February 1957, Prof. A natural consequence of Conference. Ramakrishnan received a letter Father’s visit to Australia was There he met Robert from Robert Oppenheimer, in- CHENNAI HERITAGE Sir Mark Oliphant’s acceptance Oppenheimer, Director of the viting him to visit the Institute Institute for Advanced Study in for Advanced Study for the aca- No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road to deliver the Rutherford Me- , Chennai 600 014 morial Lecture at the University Princeton. He later wrote in his demic year 1957-58. He applied of Madras in early 1955. Profes- Diary: “It was during lunch time to the Asia Foundation for the I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List No...... ) / sor Oliphant stayed at Ekamra that a fortuitous incident travel grant to go to Princeton, I have just seen Madras Musings and would like to receive it Nivas and, being a vegetarian occurred which altered the and a grant-in-aid to defray his hereafter. himself, enjoyed the fare offered course of my scientific career. living expenses for the year. G I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for Rs. 100 at our home. Then in Decem- Since I was a stranger to the The academic year 1957-58 (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI HERITAGE, ber 1955, Nobel Laureate C. F. group of high energy physicists, that Ramakrishnan spent at MADRAS, as subscription to Madras Musings for the year Powell visited and lectured at I sat alone at a separate table in Princeton was a turning point 2014-15. the cafeteria when Oppenhei- in his career. He heard over one the University of Madras. G As token of my support for the causes of heritage, environ- The visits of Dirac, Oliphant mer walked in, and with a hundred lectures at seminars at ment and a better city that Madras Musings espouses, I send and Powell were the informal politeness characteristic of true the Institute by the leaders of Chennai Heritage an additional Rs...... beginning of the Theoretical greatness, asked me whether he modern physics on the latest (Rupees ...... ) Please keep/put Physics Seminar, although the could join me for lunch at the and most important develop- me on your mailing list. table. When he asked me what ments. T.D. Lee and C.N. Yang seminar formally began only in Name : ...... 1959. my future plans were, I took the were in residence at the Insti- Address: ...... * * * opportunity to express to him tute and everyone was excited ...... my desire to spend a year at the about their recent sensational In 1956 Father went on what All cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. DD/Cheque should be sent was to be the first of many Institute for Advanced Study. discovery of non-conservation Though I was a seasoned proba- of parity and wondered whether by Speed Post only. 8 MADRAS MUSINGS January 16-31, 2015 The importance of being smart

(Continued from page 1) G engage effectively with local At a time when it is consid- people in local governance ered ‘unsmart’ to be queuing up users to alert the nearest police and decision by use of open at counters to do tasks that can station when in danger. Hyde- processes and e-processes; be accomplished at the click of rabad, which is in many ways G make use of creative indus- a button, it is time for Chennai the pioneer among smart cities tries, community and social to wake up. It is certainly a in India, has expanded its e-seva networks to achieve these waste of human resources to portal which it launched way aims. have people go from govern- back in 2006, to encompass all Does Chennai fit into any of ment department to depart- transactions with the public on these? Sadly, the answer has to ment to get their work done. civic amenities and services. be no. There is no consistent What is needed is a policy state- Internationally, it is ac- policy for such a development ment to make Chennai smart cepted that for a city to be de- to happen. Take, for instance, and then having a Chief Tech- Till February 6: Layers of percep- abandoned furniture factory as a fined as smart, it needs to use the project of fitting GPS on nology Officer for the entire city tion and difficulties of some realities political aspect of social outcasts information and communica- city buses. This was launched whose task it will be to get it – an exhibition of paintings by and Deidi on the other hand ex- tion technology to with much fanfare and funding moving quickly on the digital Sanjeeva Rao (at Appa Rao Gal- plores the hidden agenda of poli- G make physical infrastruc- from the Jawaharlal Nehru Na- highway. leries). tics in a series of scaffoldings as a ture more efficient thereby tional Urban Renewal Mission Most American cities have Till January 30: All that lies beneath metaphor (at Appa Rao Infin- making the socio-cultural a few years ago. A change of one as does London. Singapore the surface – an exhibition of ity). environment much stron- government was enough to en- too has created this post. What mixed media works featuring January 17-18: Street Food Fest and ger; Manish Nai (at Bergamo, Garden Show. The Friends of sure that the entire process was is the point in claiming to be G learn, adapt and innovate mothballed. Such shortsighted working on becoming world Khader Nawaz Khan Road). DakshinaChitra and the living and therefore respond much January 21-30: The Urban Story – museum at Muttukadu in thinking is making sure that our class when the building blocks faster to changing circum- city lags behind when all others for such a status are yet to be in an exhibition of photographs by Chennai together present their stances; Deidi Von Schaewen and annual fundraiser. Upma- are marching ahead. place? George K. Both artists explore, pesarattu (upma stuffed pesarattu), in the medium of photography, sannas with gravy, Manglorean explores an inward journey in two different aspects of the ur- idlis with veg/non-veg accompa- her expressionistic work, Natraj ban city. George looks at an niments, Burma noodles – South uses wit, humour and absolute BUCKINGHAM Indianised noodles – and many fantasy in his tableaux. more food items will be on Till January 30: Myth narrative and CANAL HOPES display. Rare and exotic plants the story – an exhibition of paint- Buckingham (Petunias, Gerberas, Adeniums as ings featuring Alexis Kersey, (Continued from page 1) next step. This is also being aided well as Bonsai of Casuarinas and Amit Ambalal, Ketna Patel, far beyond that, it was always by the dumping of garbage along Canal Ficus nurtured by professional Redappa Naidu, Suryakant felt that the rest of it stood a fair its banks. Rather ironically, this green thumbs will take centre- Lokhande and Umashankar chance for rejuvenation. But narrowing of the canal has come Pathak (Apparao Galleries @ Chronology stage. with the city now growing rap- about after the State Govern- the Leela Palace). For more details on the Street idly, it is seen that the same ment has spent a considerable (Continued from page 6) Food Festival contact 98841 Till January 31: Exhibition of malpractices are in full swing in amount of money in widening it 20150, on the Garden Show paintings and drawings by the new parts also. to 100 metres along a distance of Edaiyur (north) 36-2 contact 9677029265 (Dakshina- G. Ramana. His style is distinct, almost 13 km. Chitra, 11am to 5pm). mostly depicting rural folk or Large apartment complexes Edaiyur (south) 36-3 and commercial establishments To what purpose will the Pudupatnam (north) 41-0 Till January 20: Exhibition by Arts musicians and all aspects Management Students on celebrating life. His black and have begun doing what they Central Government efforts to Pudupatnam (south) 41-4 were always good at – discharg- give the canal a new life be if the Palar (north) 43-5 Temples of South India (at Dak- white drawings are well known shinaChitra). for their strength and simplicity ing untreated effluent and sew- local populace works consis- Palar (south) 44-5 Till January 28: Spectrum of expres- and his paintings have few age into the canal. The water- tently against it? Is it not in our Palar (south) 46-2 sions – an exhibition of paintings primary colours filling in compli- way is shrinking rapidly and is nature to be socially conscious? Voyalur (double locks) featuring works of Eleena Banik cated and defined lines filling quite likely to end up the way it It is high time residents of Kaddalur (double locks) and S. Natraj. Both artists are every bit of the canvas (at has in the rest of the city. From Chennai woke up to their re- Kadambakkam (double locks) expressive. While Eleena DakshinaChitra). there to building on it is but the sponsibilities.

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