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• Short ‘N’ Snappy • Gopalkrishna Gandhi’s letter • The eye-pecking snake MADRAS • The narrow road to North • Decline of Manikkodi

Vol. XVIII No. 6 MUSINGS July 1-15, 2008 New Assembly complex raises many Modern-Dravidian’s the style logistics ome idea of the design for the new Assembly building com- Splex scheme of the Government of has been published. The buildings, it appears, will be modernistic in look but will incorporate some Dravidian elements. issues The original layout had five circular courtyards, with the With“A ‘Sound prices andsoaring, Light’ all show that Iwith- can main Assembly hall in the fourth. It has now been decided to affordout any now sound is to or take light... pictures Brilliant, of the I (By A Special Correspondent) have four courtyards only and the Assembly has been shifted to thingsthought!” I want to buy! the second court. The Assembly Hall earlier had a dome whose he design plans for the new that the impact of placing the design the powers-that-be did not particularly like. This has now Does that include TState Assembly complex Secretariat/Assembly complex been modified to resemble the gopurams of the rathas of have been unveiled, but the in the heart of the most impor- Mahabalipuram. It is reliably learnt that all buildings will be of the building? plan raises not a few logistics is- tant thoroughfare has not been locally available granite and, hopefully, they will not be faced ‘Routine’ once meant a happy sues which it will be well worth studied as yet. It is only now with the regulatory red granite that our PWD is so fond of. stew of both individual and the Government’s while to pon- that traffic experts have been The entire complex will be divided into two principal blocks, joint programmes. der over before work begins. called in. They will, therefore, the first one being the Assembly and the second the Secretariat. There are reports that the second one will have around 20 Not any more. The only entry and exit for ve- have no option but to accept A typical day now means a ve- the site as a reality and work to- storeys, making it one of the tallest buildings in the city. There hicles, and this includes the will also be a Convention Centre in the complex. hicle filled to the brim with at high security convoys, will be (Continued on page 3) least three generations, plus a near the intersection of Anna few who ‘need to be dropped’. The to-do list reads veg- Salai and Sivananda Salai etables-shopping-family-vis- (Adam’s Road). This is a very its-pick-up-repaired-cell- busy intersection, being an oft- City neglected as a phone/test-results/child- used route for those wishing to from-coffee-shop-finish- access Central Station. Siva- brisk-walk-buy-wedding-gift nanda Salai is a narrow stretch … and too bad if you are part with the river on one side and tourism destination of only one of these the MRTS going directly above ourisim is booming in It is simply that Chennai and G The city has over 20 muse- programmes. it. It is also one of the last green With these fuel prices, indepen- T Tamil Nadu, but why is its significance as the birthplace ums. Yet there are no booklets, dence is unaffordable. stretches in the city. With Gov- Chennai not considered a sight- of Modern India are not SOLD etc. providing such informa- Your vehicle is now the most ernment vehicles having to fre- seeing destination? Why does it by the Tourism Department. tion. Compare this with cities high-maintenance ‘thing’ in quently use this road and also not compare with the other This is done neither abroad nor such as London or the success the house – and you once , there are chances three metros all of which see on arrivals at railway stations or of small museums in India, such thought it would be your that traffic will be stopped tourists in large numbers spend- airports. This contrasts with as the Raja Dinkar Kelkar Mu- teenagers. whenever ministerial convoys ing time there? The reasons are many cities abroad and in India, And with cooking gas now on a use them. This will lead to an not far to seek. like , Delhi and Jaipur. (Continued on page 2) luxury list, civilisation is cer- enormous pile-up of traffic. It tainly declining and falling all must be borne in mind that in over the place. order to access Fort St George, Price tags are often far heavier Record visitors, record earnings to lift than the items them- the convoys at present use here is good news on the tourism front in line to the State in impressive numbers. As for selves. Beach Road, which sees less TTamil Nadu. The State set a new record by Indian States, neighbouring Andhra sent in the Yet, messages come at you from traffic and is also very broad. earning Rs 5,430 crore in 2007 from foreign maximum number of 39 lakh visitors last year. every direction: “Look, Ev- That not being the case in the tourists. This is roughly 80% higher than the Karnataka, Kerala, Maharashtra, West Bengal eryday People, look at all the new location, traffic bottle- amount earned the previous year. The number of and Uttar Pradesh followed in that order. goodies out there…Buy, Buy, necks are foreseen. foreigners who visited the State last year is given The State Government is extremely pleased Buy….” The PWD, never known to as 17,53,000, 31.3% more than the previous and is planning a slew of measures to improve Exactly how fast are average be proactive, has stated that it year. The increase in spend vis-à-vis the increase amenities for visitors. A Rs. 5.5 crore package people supposed to run, be- needs to study the relocation of in numbers indicates that per tourist spend is on has been announced for Vellore, which is fast fore they can catch up with bus-stops along Mount Road the increase in the State, which points to higher emerging as a tourist hub, the presence of the this promised Life, this ‘Ar- value added services. On the domestic tourist golden domed Sripuram temple being a major rived’ list? and Wallajah Road junction. front too, the State has registered impressive fig- attraction. The Tourism Department has Money has lost its ‘money-ness’, The pedestrian entry to the As- ures. A whopping 506.47 lakh Indians from analysed and found that tourists are going in or seems to be re-defining it- sembly complex will be along other States visited Tamil Nadu last year, which large numbers to Gangaikondacholapuram, self. this intersection. If the bus- is an increase of 28% over the previous year. Mahabalipuram, Thanjavur and the wildlife If the sky is the limit for soaring stops are to be moved away There are some interesting statistics in terms sanctuaries in the State. But what is striking is prices, we still have far to go. from here, it will mean pedes- of geographic spread of tourists as well. Interna- that Chennai is completely absent from the list. Meanwhile, the limitless sky is trians will have to walk much tionally, Sri Lankans top the list when it comes The city, while serving as an entry and exit lowering heavy grey clouds longer and, perhaps, cross the to Tamil Nadu as a destination, with over 3.60 point, is obviously not considered by most tour- on to the heads of hapless roads at all kinds of places, lakh arrivals last year. They are closely followed ists as worthy of stay. This excludes those who citizens. by visitors from Malaysia and Singapore. Visitors come in as part of health tourism, in which case thereby making their journey from the UK, USA and France also made a bee- the city is an obvious destination. Ranjitha Ashok more hazardous. It is strange CMYK 2 July 1-15, 2008 Can sister cities Heritage by any other name get together he longer The Man from thing for the sake of doing it longs to an i-pod, which is a TMadras Musings lives, the and then heaving a sigh of re- portable musical gadget that more he is convinced that the lief that it is all over and done stores an awesome number of on riverfront heritage movement in Madras with. MMM suspects that there songs in it. Here again, there is that is Chennai is blighted from must have been a budget for subliminal sub-communalism, the start, mainly because it the event, which those in for, the man whose i-pod holds development? lacks supernatural blessings. charge would have been eager 53,259 songs looks down on And what better way to get to spend. Now that the expen- the chap whose gadget has only e missed the news that with this agreement for them than numerology? It is diture has been incurred, all are 3245. Size matters. on February 27, 2008, Chennai? the in-thing now. MMM did happy. What does it matter if it To come back to the point, W not take it seriously till he re- was up for a day, an hour or the i-pod is in, say, pocket A, the Mayor of San Antonio We propose to initiate an ex- ceived an invitation from an even just a minute? with its wires firmly plugged to (Texas, U.S.A.), Phil Hard- change of students, physicians, organisation calling itself the the ear. The mobile phone is in berger, and Chennai’s Mayor, cultural and art forms... the ar- Artss Academy. MMM seri- Agile and mobile pocket B, with its own set of M. Subramaniam, signed a Sis- eas are vast. This declaration of ously thinks that Madras wires. Now as soon as the ter City agreement between the friendship will be a two-way im- Musings must change its name he Man from Madras phone rings, or buzzes, or vi- two cities. provement for both our cities, to Chennai Chatter. After all T Musings used to run for brates, or whatever else it can San Antonio’s Sister City attract investment, encourage who muses today? Everyone exercise. That was until a fall do, sometimes all of the above, agreement with Chennai is ex- business partnership and gener- chatters – and continuously in a heritage building (of all the walker takes off the wires ally be an exchange of com- into cell phones, at that. This places) put paid to some part of from the music gadget and pected to lay the foundation for his spine identified by a letter merce, culture and education. will be more in keeping with plugs the phone wires in. All significant economic and cul- the trend. such as C or L or S or some this is fraught with danger, for, tural exchanges in such areas as What will be one special Also Chennai Heritage itself such. As a result of this, MMM the wire that is idle can trip you commerce, health, education, immediate action? could be spelt as Chennai is now only allowed a dignified over and then, in addition to and technology. This agreement We hope to be a single point Heritaje. MMM is told certain walk. And as he walks along he listening to the music, you can with Chennai is San Antonio’s of contact as a facilitating office letters have more strength than looks about, always on the also see stars. There was a time 8th sister city relationship and to get rid of bureaucratic mush. others and ‘j’ is far more pow- look-out for material to fill this when only your shoelace could the first and the only one they Please share your thoughts erful compared to the mere ‘g’. column. And what amazes him do that, but then we live in dan- will have with India. on the achievements during Phonetically it will not make a is that times are changing. gerous times. your mayorship. difference; after all, it could There was a time when men There is a third variety One of Mayor Hardberger’s took their dogs for walks. Now I believe that public spaces have been infinitely worse with which is still getting used to the path-breaking initiatives, options such as Chennnnai just about everyone takes his mobile phone. This kind be- successfully completed during knit a community together, and Herrritagge etc. Now for the mobile phone for a walk. This lieves that it has to roar every his tenure, has been extending I have sought to rediscover San buildings. could realisation dawned on MMM word into the instrument, the development of the 13-mile Antonio’s historic beauty. To- be Ribbon Building. If only Gov- when, one day, early in the thereby disturbing the public San Antonio River. Other gether with my able team, I led ernment House had been named morning, when it was not yet peace. There is a fourth variety noteworthy achievements in- the charge to restore Main Plaza, Gorement House, its fate would which appears to have gradu- clude renovating the main the city’s birthplace, as a stun- or could have been a lot differ- ated from the old walkie-talkie. plaza, purchasing a ranch and ning central gathering spot con- ent. We could have Chebag SHORT Walkers of this type keep developing it into a park, and necting city and county govern- Palace, Merina Beach, Central switching the phone from ear Tesan and so on. About Eg- ’N’ to mouth. While speaking they homeless rehabilitation in a sus- ment, the San Fernando Cathe- dral and the San Antonio River. more, MMM is not all worried. bring it close to their mouths tainable way. After all, in its history it was SNAPPY and while listening they press it His curator wife, Linda What has been on top pri- named Elumuroo, Ezhumbur to the ear. They barely stop Hardberger, has done wonders ority for you? and so on. So a change to Egg- bright, MMM was walking short of barking “Over” at the with their city museum and is The San Antonio River, more would not matter. MMM along a tree-lined avenue and end of every sentence. hopeful of lending a helping which attracted the city’s first would request those who worry espied a well-dressed if over- One thing is common hand to Chennai museums too! settlers to San Antonio, is a top about heritaje, sorry heritage, weight man talking to himself among all these types. There is Hardberger is currently serving priority for me. While the River to consider this. as he walked on. He appeared very little walking done. Which Walk is a great attraction for to be arguing or even fighting is something that MMM gets his second term as mayor in San with himself. Perhaps it was a done because he belongs to that Antonio. A noted adventurer, both locals and tourists, I am Fly-by-night exhibits determined to improve a full 13 struggle between the body and rare breed that does not bring pilot, sailor and racecar driver, peaking about Elumuroo the immortal soul? along a phone. But, then, most Mayor Hardberger has com- miles of the San Antonio River Sor Ezhumbur or , MMM is always a votary of cannot be bothered with such pleted ascents of Mt. Rainier to create hike and bike trails The Man from Madras Musings safety first and, so, thinking outcasts, can they? and Mt. Kilimanjaro. linking Brackenridge Park to was away when the centenary that this man may be non com- Ranjini Manian, Editor, At a Mission Espada and connecting of its station was celebrated. pos, he decided to give him a Zeal v Greed Glance and CEO, Global Adjust- the city from North to South. But he was happy to note that wide berth. But the other gent Can’t wait to do that walk an exhibition of photographs was a swift walker and soon here is news on the ille- ments, caught up with Mayor gal building front. Appar- with you, Mayor, and can’t wait about the building and the caught up with MMM, all the T Phil Hardberger for a brief in- South Indian Railway, whose while yelling at himself. As ently, those who have been teraction and we are indebted for Chennai’s rivers to be served demolition notices after cleaned up and made beautiful northern terminus it was, was MMM slowed down, wonder- to her for raising some questions put up. MMM was looking for- ing what could be offered by the High Court passed judge- with Mayor Hardberger that are one day. There is hope for us all! ward to returning and enjoying way of self-defence, he realised ment have appealed using a pertinent to Chennai today. EDITOR’S NOTE: With San the display when he found that that the other was wearing a new logic. They have accepted But one question we have for Antonio also looking at its the exhibition was on only for a twinkling ornament over his that their buildings violate all norms, but they claim that they the Mayor is what has hap- riverfront, perhaps it could day. ear which extended halfway In any other country, they down his cheek. This, MMM are entitled to a one-time par- pened to the already exisiting share ideas with those in don, because their intention sister cities’ membership with Chennai who keep promising a would have dined out for a year later came to learn, is the famed on this, but here it is more a was not to violate but they were green riverfront development of ‘blue tooth’, which is not the Denver, Colorado. question of putting up some- term for a tooth that has re- overcome by their zeal to do What do you hope to do the Adyar. ceived an excessive dose of an- business which must not be aesthetic, but a gadget which mistaken for greed! CITY NEGLECTED AS A TOURISM DESTINATION provides you handless contact The Man from Madras Musings marvels at the brains (Continued from page 1) inaccessible. So what does that long festive season beginning with your mobile. So you keep the mobile in your pocket, stick that come up with such unique seum in Pune and the Dolls’ leave the tourist with? Temples, with music festival in Novem- reasoning. He also wonders Museum in Calcutta. churches and mosques are the ber to the the blue tooth into your ear, answer all your calls and, hey why, if the builders had become There is simply no street sole remaining choices and not in January. Can this not be mar- presto! you look loony but your overzealous, the Corporation signage near any monument. many may want to have an itin- keted effectively? Two years work gets done. These strollers or the CMDA did not dampen Those not knowing much about erary dedicated to them. The ago, there was an announce- are the highest in status. They their enthusiasm even during the city have no chance of see- beach may be the only attrac- ment that a consultant had appear to communicate with the planning stage by pointing ing places unless accompanied tion. been called in by Government the clouds and most often have out the violations. Were the authorities also motivated by by an informed local resident. There is no well organised to submit a report on marketing their heads in them. the zeal to do business of some Then there is the second va- Most of the monuments guided tour of the city led by The Season. But nothing seems kind or the other? MMM hopes and buildings are poorly main- guides with a sense of history. to have happened. riety of walker who has a com- plicated set of cables dangling and prays that such gobblede- tained. To cite a few examples: Calcutta has one for 25 years There are many ways in gook will not be paid any heed the National Gallery has been now and is booked weeks in ad- which tourists can be made to all over. This one has not yet attained the status that the blue to and that all violators will be closed for repairs for years, the vance. Can Chennai not do stay and spend time in the city. tooth-wearer has. Among the brought to book. something similar? But unless concerted efforts are Senate House is locked up, and many cables, the first set be- – MMM most parts of Fort St George are The city is home now to a taken, this will never happen. July 1-15, 2008 MADRAS MUSINGS 3 Chennai ‘free to air’ again hennai is looking brighter and cleaner, hundreds of illegal hoardings on pavements, river Cnow that the skyline is no longer cluttered banks, bridges, markets, schools and colleges and Regulations ignored Ekamra Nivas in has with advertisement hoardings. placed them before the Court. This included a notification published by created another void in the field Advertisement hoardings represent indis- 50+ hoarding list between the residence of the Chief Justice and the , and a the CMDA in 2001 read: of intellectual researches in the criminate use of public spaces for private adver- A tisement. Several of them are also structurally 100+ hoarding list at the junction Before buying property between disciplines of Science and Maths. unsafe and unable to withstand weather on- in Chennai. and Sea Shore, slaught. Also, the primary problem with hoard- please check whether: Dr. Ramakrishnan’s yeoman The 23-year stand of CAG that public spaces ings is its fundamental purpose – to distract road cannot be privatised by advertisers has finally The site lies beyond 500 mts. service to create awareness of • users – and the larger the hoarding, the bigger been vindicated by a Supreme Court order which from high tide line. Science and Maths is laudable. the distraction. recognises the validity of CAG’s long pending The plot lies in an approved He started the Maths-Science • It was for these reasons that CAG began its arguments for regulating hoardings to safeguard layout. Institute in Madras that became battle against hoardings in 1985, when CAG’s pedestrian, motorist and public safety. • The construction is as per the a Deemed University and had trustees filed several PILs pointing out the approved plan. helped many young persons ea- threats posed by these hoardings to the people The Supreme Court ruling has allowed • Ask the seller to furnish ap- ger to do researches to pursue and the city. CAG’s PILs also drew attention to several buildings of architectural splendour and several green and open spaces to reappear over- proval details. their studies abroad. the repeated cutting of trees by hoardings con- • Check the authenticity of the night. CAG welcomes this ruling on advertise- A product of P.S. Higher tractors to make the advertisement visible from approval details in CMDA. all directions, and the unacceptable wastage of ment hoardings in Chennai and the consequent • You may also get written con- Secondary School in Mylapore, electricity for neon signs and hoardings that are removal of several hundreds of hoardings around firmation within a fortnight he had given many lectures lit brightly at night. the city. (Courtesy: Public Newsense, the journal from CMDA. about Astronomy or Astro- Over the long duration of this battle to pro- of the Citizen consumer and civic Action Group Despite these warnings, a Physics in his alma mater. One tect public spaces, CAG photo-documented (CAG). multi-storey building came up thing about his talks. He always about four years ago within 500 interacted with the audience to six months and described the is- Ltd, the and North Pix for metres of high-tide level on learn what they felt about the land as resembling Kerala. The Chennai Thermal Power Sta- e plan to celebrate beach. Thereaf- presentation. Complex ques- only mode of transport then was tion and the Ennore Port, Madras Day 2008 with a ter, quite a few building com- tions were debated by him with boat. The huge sand dunes, the would perish and the disaster W photographic exhibition on the plexes and houses have come young or old across the table at thick vegetation with age-old would be 100 times that of the . Could up even within 200 metres, let P.S. Higher Secondary School’s trees, natural springs, pristine Bhopal tragedy. readers help with photographs alone the 500 metres stipulated Science Club. water and calm atmosphere I urge the Government to showing boats in the canal with by the authorities. were sights to cherish. reconsider its decision and lo- P.A. Ranganathan goods, anywhere within Ma- With such blatant violations Such industries coming up so cate the ship-building industry 16/24, Vedachala Garden dras, and boats being pulled by of the prescribed regulations, close to the city will only add to or any other industry 200 km Mandaveli Street two men on either side of the how can we expect the authori- pollution and traffic in North from Chennai. Let Kaatupalli Chennai 600 028 bank? Readers can also partici- ties to be concerned about pro- Madras and the nearby villages. be. pate in an exhibition on Madras tecting the environment or Possible dangers The most dangerous issue Gov- J. Chandrasekaran of the 1900s. We will welcome conservation of heritage struc- ith reference to Prof. ernment should consider is the 50, Sullivan Garden Road pictures of buildings, festivals, tures? Sanjeeva Raj’s letter catastrophe which could occur W Mylapore, Chennai 600 004 events, transports, attire includ- Srinivasan Pattoo (MM, June 16th) on Ennore in a war – or by an extremist – ing headgear, day-to-day mat- Founder-President and island, I totally en- using bombs. Such sensitive Wasted pages ters, newspaper clippings and Wecare Foundation dorse his views. places like the Secretariat, RBI, old books published in Madras, Bayview Apartments I have been familiar with , numerous banks am curious to know the rea- 19/22, New Beach Road in short any thing of Madras in Kaattupalli and other villages on Rajaji Salai, the factories at sons for publishing an ac- Thiruvanmiyur, Chennai 600 041 I the 1900s. ever since 1965, when the se- Tiruvottriyur, the Manali refin- count of “The Buchanan- Across the table nior Sankaracharaya Sri Chan- ery, with a dozen polluting Stanley Wedding in Madras” in th If you want to participate, he passing away of Dr. drasekharendra Saraswati chemical companies including the MM, May 16 . I am unable contact me by August 10th on TAlladi Ramakrishnan of camped at Kaattupalli for about the Tamil Nadu Petroproducts to understand what relevance it mobile No. 98408 70172 or has today insofar as the readers Raja Seetharaman at 98400 of Madras Musings are con- 37001. Logistics – and the new Assembly cerned. In what way are they benefited by knowing about an D. Hemchandra Rao (Continued from page 1) is something no one seems con- from Germany has undergone a event that had happened and wards changing the traffic flow, cerned about. May Day Park, number of changes, apparently was reported in The Madras adopting a post facto approach, which has remained a sylvan with ideas being offered from Mail in April 1932! a solution that is always fraught oasis, will soon be run over by the highest level. The designers hangers-on and petitioners, al- had, it is whispered, incorpo- The motto of Madras READABILITY with problems. Musings is ‘We care for Madras, What the presence of a tall ways to be associated with any rated in their original design PLEASE Government complex. Government House, Gandhi that is Chennai’. This does not skyscraper, which is what the mean that MM should be pub- Dear Readers, Secretariat promises to be, will The original design as Illam and . But it was lishing such articles concerning As letters from readers increase, do to the aesthetics of the area worked on by the architects suggested to do away with the first two and only retain the the Englishmen of that period. I we are receiving more and more third. And, so, Rajaji Hall has am sure none would be inter- hand written letters, many of OUR ADDRESSES been left untouched. What ev- ested and two valuable pages them in a hand so small and For matters regarding subscriptions, donations, non-receipt of eryone conveniently forgets is have been wasted and the valu- illegible or large and scrawled as able time of readers too. receipts etc.: Chennai Heritage, 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, that two buildings, one of them to be unreadable. Often this leads to our discarding a letter, , Chennai 600 014. among the oldest buildings in T.M. Sundararaman Madras Musings now has its own email ID. Letters to the editor the city and the other a museum 19, Nallappan Street particularly if some part of it is can be sent via email to [email protected]. Those who dedicated to the Mahatma, Mylapore, Chennai 600 004 unreadable. wish to intimate change of address can also do so provided the have been done away with. If you wish us to consider your subscription number is quoted. A new question that now EDITOR’S NOTE: The same letter for publication, please type argument could be used for much For non-receipt of copies, change of address, and all other emerges is related to the future it with enough space between of the other material that appears lines or write it using a medium circulation matters: MADRAS MUSINGS, C/o Lokavani Southern of Rajaji Hall itself. Till now it in Madras Musings. Of what inte- hand, clearly dotting the ‘i-s’ and Printers Pvt. Ltd., 62/63, Greames Road, Chennai 600 006. had been a convenient venue rest is it to readers of Madras On editorial matters: The Editor, MADRAS MUSINGS, C/o for meetings organised by those Musings today to read of Manikkodi crossing the ‘t-s’. Lokavani Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd., 62/63, Greames Road, Chennai with limited budgets. Now, the or Ramunni Menon or Sir Arthur Many readers also try to fill 600 006. building, practically shut off in- Cotton or anyone else out of the every square centimetre of a No personal visits or telephone calls, please. Letters received will side what will be a high security past? We publish such pieces be- postcard space, making reading enclave, will be practically use- cause they reflect how life was lived or editing impossible. be sent from these addresses every couple of days to the persons at one time and how things have concerned and you will get an answer from them to your queries less. And everyone knows what Please help us to consider your happens to heritage buildings changed. If a reader doesn’t want letters more favourably by mak- reasonably quickly. Strange as it may seem, if you adopt the ‘snail mail’ to read such historic, nostalgic or that are not used regularly. ing them more legible for us. approach, we will be able to help you faster and disappoint you less. old lifestyle material, he doesn’t Perhaps that is also part of a have to; we are not compelling him THE EDITOR THE EDITOR grand plan. to waste his time doing so. 4 MADRAS MUSINGS July 1-15, 2008 July 1-15, 2008 MADRAS MUSINGS 5

urban surroundings. It occurs Finn added that two punctures throughout India, except in the were subsequently observed on The positives and The Snake Northwest and the Gangetic the upper and one on the lower The ‘hidden’ legs Gem-bright and patterned coils basin. Outside India, it is found lid of his eye and, rubbing his eye, you weave, in Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Myan- he removed a tooth from the ne theory about the origin why one of the names for the mar and Southeast Asia. lower lid. Finn’s is, perhaps, the Oof snakes is that they snake in Sanskrit is goodapâdah A living stream of reasoned flesh evolved from terrestrial lizards – one with hidden legs. the negatives and bone earliest published account. Apart from its general and, in the course of evolution, There is a saying in Tamil, , Through the familiar grass, and lost their limbs. All traces of Pâmbinkâl pâmbariyum, mean- (Continued from last You will notice another new 1. A Punjab farmer with 5 then you leave appearance which is quite fasci- Malcolm Smith had personal fortnight) ‘visual’. acres earns less today than a nating, it has many interesting experience of this snake. He said the forelimbs and the pectoral ing “a snake’s legs only a snake Ancestral markings on the sand, girdle have disappeared. But can see”. This proverb is often We wear rather more rings on Class IV government employee. beside some stone: features. Firstly, its head is in his The Fauna of British India spoke of the greatly improved some of the primitive species – used in the metaphorical sense our fingers than we used to. If 2. Global warming could unusually long and pointed, – Serpentes (1943) that “in [his] the boas, the pythons and the that only persons with similar Iquality of India’s new roads. more rings are seen on fingers, mean floods and droughts and More delicate than spider webs, almost resembling a bird’s beak. garden in Bangkok where it was or tiger’s bristles, blind snakes – still have rem- traits can recognise these in The traffic on them is another more strings are seen on wrists. we need urgently a flood code, a Secondly, it has an equally common, [he] often caught it nants of the pelvis and the one another. matter! 3.7 million trucks and Does this show a heightened re- drought code and a good- Your tongue’s twin tips flick unusual, elongated fleshy nasal and placed it among the flowers hindlimbs which do not look But the proverb is, perhaps, earthward – smell and taste goods vehicles were reckoned in ligiosity? I do not think so, Sir. weather code. appendage at the end of its snout. on the table... there it would like limbs at all. capable of a different interpre- 2004 as plying on India’s roads. Our forebears were not less If we do not follow up on the What there is need to, amid Thirdly, while, in most snakes, remain almost motionless, turn- A recent newspaper report tation also. Though the obvi- twigs and thistles – At any point in time today, 3 mil- prayerful than us. Perhaps we logical corollary of what he has the pupil of the eye is round (in ing its head from side to side.” stated that a 92-million-years- ous meaning of kâl is ‘leg’, the lion trucks are said to be actually Something to feed upon, or love, diurnal species) or elliptical- Smith added: “When handled, it old fossil of a two-legged snake word also means ‘way, path’. fear the loss of security more said, we could be in great diffi- or flee in haste. on India’s roads, racing with vertical (in nocturnal species), in has a peculiar habit of watching had been discovered in Leba- See The Tamil Lexicon, Univer- than they did. culty. non even though only one leg sity of Madras, 1982. The prov- their overloaded tare of mer- Superb, unmindful of the the vine snake, the pupil is hori- one’s face and suddenly making I spoke of the transforma- I spoke of our democracy. We was imprinted on the surface of erb could then mean that “a chandise, against some 9.5 mil- Scripture’s Curse, tional change in the status of are the world’s largest democ- zontal. It is believed that this a dart at it, aiming usually for the the rock. Researchers at the snake knows the way another lion cars and jeeps and, Sir, hold women. But, and I say this with racy. Dinosaurs were large! You thread your ancient way tri- gives the snake a three-dimen- eyes.” European Light Source (ESRF) snake has gone”. That makes your breath, more than 50 mil- shame, in several parts of India There is something called qual- umphantly, sional vision and helps it in hunt- in Grenoble, France, confirmed sense and conforms to a com- lion two-wheelers. We are on the female foetuses have been sys- ity, independent of numbers. Did Around man’s ignorance (save a ing its prey among the foliage. Thus, there is a substantial by X-rays that the creature had mon observation which is the move. But when we need to pro- tematically destroyed. If the not someone say ‘Give me one few) and nurse Fourthly, its eyes are so designed body of published material* in its other leg buried in the rock. basis for the superstition that if ceed, we race. Don’t ask, Sir, too number of men in India is greater Satyamurti?’ We are proud of our No hatred in your calm fluidity. as to have a range of vision con- support of the belief that the The 85 cm long creature has a snake is killed, its mate will closely about our sense of cour- than that of women it is not be- elections, but our pride holds its That day is pleasant, if some siderably more than in other snake pecks at the eye. Notwith- been named Eupodophis soon appear to take revenge. A tesy, road-safety or traffic-law cause, genetically, women die breath at poll-time lest manipu- pathway leads snakes – something like 330°, standing this, in discussions descouensi. snake is wont to follow another abidance. Or about the quality of To your bright beauty, flowing which is just 30° short of a full among knowledgeable people, The ancient Indians of the opposite sex by means of earlier than men; on the con- lation or violence mars it. De- thought that the snake had the scent trail left by the musk the trucks and their road-worthi- trary, it is because we have not mocracy is also undermined by through the reeds. circle. Fifthly, it has an interest- the general tendency is to dismiss ness. And please don’t ask about this as a foolish belief. The only limbs, but that they were hid- glands. — (Courtesy: Cobra) allowed them the life-span na- two invisible but real psycholo- – P.H.W. Bachmann ing threat display. When den from human sight. That is the toxic emission levels from all ture has intended for them. gies – first, by the calm uncon- (1949) alarmed, it raises its head and published statement I could find B.V. these vehicles. ‘Tamil India’, following Kerala, is cern in ‘India Inc’ for the India quoted by Carl Kauffeld: forebody, dilates the forebody, in support of this contrary view I spoke of our mobile phones doing far better than the rest of that is not incorporated. And, Snake – The Keeper bringing into view black and was by Romulus Whitaker. In his and their 245 million users. India. The sex ratio in Tamil second, by the rage in Unincor- and the Kept (1969) white patterns, opens its jaws The common vine snake (Ahaetulla nasuta) – Threat display. Photo: S. R. 1978 book Common Indian Again, don’t ask me what it is Nadu is 987 and Puducherry’s is porated India over what it is do- wide and grotesquely spreads out Ganesh. Snakes, he said: “The vine snake The Plain Tiger in fact in the plus – 1001. ing without. In the turbulent is accused of poking one’s eyes 245 million of us talk about. My freshly caught, it “repeatedly guess is that a great deal of the I spoke of our exhilarating space between these two , [emphasis added].... The vine space missions. There is a down- violence grows. In ‘Maoist’ af- strikes at anyone confronting it”. snake can inflict a painful (but of Chennai talk, one way or another, re- He quoted one E.E. Green as say- volves around money – the mak- side to the world of space probes. fected villages, terror divides the harmless) bite on a finger or even ‘The snake that ing that a captive specimen “will a nose, but no one has ever I do not refer to their cost-effec- innocent, mocks at authority. ing of money, more and more of strike out blindly often in the money, the saving of money, the tiveness, on which there can be Our law enforcing agencies received an eye injury.” (He views such as ‘What do we gain shoulder an enormous and oner- direction of the face of the oppo- seems to have overlooked some stashing of it, the spending of it, nent”, and, again, that “it repeat- the splurging of it. We were al- by reaching the Moon when ous responsibility. They must of the published accounts quoted nearly 300 million of us are be- maintain the peace and stamp pecks at the eye’ edly struck at his (Green’s) face above, particularly, Finn’s.) The ways, as a people, worried about low the poverty line?’ Well, we out criminality. At the same time though it would not take any same is his position in the revised money because there was so little notice of his hand. It also struck of it. But we are now fairly ob- edition of this book published as he common vine snake its mouth sidewards. All these The following observations repeatedly at the eye-piece of a recently as in 2006. In the Jour- sessed with it because one part of The letter to Satyamurti written by Gopalkrishna pair of binoculars.” Green was a India still has far too little of it, T (Ahaetulla nasuta), or the contortions of body and face and may throw some light (or dark- nal of the Bombay Natural History Gandhi, Governor of West Bengal and grandson person knowledgeable about the while another verily drowns in it. whip snake as it is sometimes its huge pink gape make the ness?) on the subject: Society vol.67 (1) 1970, he has of Gandhiji and Rajagopalachari. called, is a more than three feet snake look most fearsome. snakes of Sri Lanka and Wall said: “... while handling a green Much of the mobile-talk also long – reaching even over six feet An early comprehensive quoted him extensively in his whip snake... it made a sudden revolves around deep-seated If further threatened, it will account was by Frank Wall, an papers. have been living in several cen- they must see that no innocent at times – slender, bright green jab at my face (which is a com- anxieties. Our new technology snake found moving about dur- not hesitate to strike. (It will also acknowledged authority on the mon habit of this species) [empha- turies at the same time. I refer, person comes to harm. Law and Wall has also quoted Finn to locks in with our old mindsets. ing the day on low bushes and strike without this warning dis- snakes of India and Sri Lanka. In sis added] and made a quick bite English name : Plain Tiger rather, to the fact that other Order responsibilities on the one the effect that “when holding The Siddhi Vinayak temple in trees with utmost felicity. It is play.) For all this bluff, it is a the very first (1905) of a series of on the tip of my nose”. Zoological name : Danaus chrysippus countries and agencies are also hand and Human Rights impera- two specimens, [he] was bitten Bombay inaugurated a scheme often seen in gardens even in rather harmless snake as far as 26 papers which appeared in the Wingspan : 70-80 mm under which one can punch a ‘up there’, with their eyes in the tives, on the other, go to make a humans and large animals are Journal of the Bombay Natural by one that struck at his eye.” To sum up, there is common text messaged – SMS – prayer. skies which can photograph our formidable challenge for the concerned. It has no venom and History Society under the title ‘A The quote is from the Journal of ground in the observation that, Description: A medium- den by the overlapping fore- We have always been a prayerful terrain, our installations, many of State. its toxic saliva, which can paral- Popular Treatise on the Com- the Asiatic Society of Bengal when the snake is handled or the sized, orange butterfly with a wings. community – a wonderful trait – them vital to our security and our You can see within our Swa- Suspicion replaces trust, con- yse its prey of lizards, frogs, small mon Indian Snakes’ which (1898) (I presume this is Frank face brought close to it, it is likely white-spotted black border all The adults visit various flow- but do you know, Sir, how many very survival. As we probe, we raj, Sir, several smaller forms of flict unseats cooperation. birds and mice, can only cause appeared between 1905 and Finn (1868-1932), the British to lunge at the face. But do the around both sets of wings, broad ers, but females lay their eggs messages came flooding into the are probed. As we explore, we in- Swaraj, and they are bewildering. Time has so shrunk, the knit some mild local reaction, if at all, 1914, he dealt with the common ornithologist, who had done eyes of the person confronting at the apex of the forewings and mainly on the leaves of milkweed temple within the first week of vite exposure. Our times are haz- Arising within our one free- of competition is now so tight in humans. vine snake. He wrote that, when some work on the birds of India). the vine snake trigger an aggres- thin elsewhere. The under- plants (family Asclepiadaceae), that scheme’s inauguration? Ten ardous, Sir. dom, many freedoms compete and the scramble for rights so in- sive reaction aimed at his eyes? I surface of the wings is much paler like the giant milkweed, which is thousand – in just one week. I spoke of our missiles. That with each other. A ‘satya’ exists tense that victories are cel- Even so, it is much feared in do not know. But I know one with larger, bead-like white spots also favoured by the Common That makes 1428 messages per we have them makes us, as Indi- for someone or the other, in each ebrated with aorta-bursting parts of its range, in South India thing for sure: in matters along the black border. The tho- Crow butterfly and also by the day and 60 messages per hour, or ans, feel safe. That the world segmented freedom or its aspira- abandon. But is the joy at one’s and Sri Lanka, for its reputation Why should we protect snakes? concerning many snakes, a rax is black with white markings Painted Grasshopper. one per minute. Our high-tech needs them should make us, as tion. K. R. Narayanan famously own victory or at the opponent’s that it will peck at the eye of the stubborn disbelief is as injurious and the abdomen is yellow. The The caterpillars devour the inhabitants of Planet Earth, feel said to Gandhiji in 1945 that the prayers have high insecurity. We defeat? The era of contending beholder. For this reason, it is he textbook answer is that they play an important role in to the discovery of truth as a greenish caterpillar is thick and leaves of these poisonous milk- are in the grip of multiple and worried. choice between violence and without wrangling, competing called the ‘eye-pecking snake’ Tdestroying vermin like rats and other agricultural pests. True blind belief. The vine snake’s smooth with a few sets of long, exuding plants and injest the inter-leaved fears. I spoke of our Corporate sec- non-violence, right and wrong, without envy, racing without (Kankuthi pãmbu) in Tamil and and not true. This is a narrow view posited on the arrogant assump- own propensities certainly call curling spines and is heavily poison therein which makes tor. While not much more than truth and untruth, is simple. tripping the competitor seems Malayalam. Its name in Sinha- tion that man’s interests are supreme and all other denizens on earth, for further studies. – (Courtesy: marked with thin, black and red- them, as adult butterflies, unpal- I spoke of the watches most of 2% of our population owns But, he said, it is when the choice gone. Success is snatched, not lese is ehetulla, meaning ‘eye plant or animal, have their relevance only so long as they contribute dish bands. atable to predators. Some other us now wear. But are we more Cobra, the journal of the stocks and shares, bourses and is between one right and another attained. plucker’ and it is this which is the unreservedly to our own material welfare. Trust) Behaviour: These are active non-toxic butterflies like the punctual than before? Are we Sensex graphs dominate our right, one truth and another I can now read another ques- butterflies with strong flight and Daniad Eggfly (female) mimic origin of its scientific name Snakes deserve to be protected for their own sake. These splen- more mindful of the value of oth- news and telecasts. Something is truth, that the difficulty arises. tion in your thoughts : ‘Are you Ahaetulla. Some herpetologists B. Vijayaraghavan are common in Chennai – in this butterfly to gain protection ers’ time? Which reminds me – I wrong with our priorities, Sir. People are ready to give their didly-endowed creatures in command of faculties denied to us, some not overbalancing the positive feel that there is some truth in of which are beyond our understanding and some, perhaps, even be- fact, they are among the com- from its distasteful reputation. have been talking for too long. Our Prime Minister had to re- lives for their segment of the with the negatives?’ Well, as you this, though they are not sure monest of Indian butterflies. Plain Tigers are found all over yond our imagination, have a significant place in life on this planet * By S. Soderberg of Tempe, Let me speed. mind India’s corporate leader- truth. Sacrifice, consequently, know, Sir, being partially of Sri how much, while others dismiss that we smugly call ‘ours’ but which certainly is not ours alone. — They rest with the wings closed India, in the plains and upto Science and its opposite, the ship to re-shape its life-style. has also become fragmented. Vaishnava stock, I tend to see this as just one of those snake (Courtesy: Cobra) Arizona, USA, P.J. Deoras, Beni above the back or opened flat. 1800 mts in the hills. – empirical and the inexplicable, I spoke of our agriculture. Dr. Each broken piece of the mir- the ‘duality’ of things. legends of which there is Charan Mahendra, J.C. Daniel, When the wings are held flat and (Courtesy: Madras Naturalists’ therefore, coexist happily in Swaminathan said two impor- ror carries a face. One person no dearth everywhere in the B.V. and Anslem De Silva, among drooping back, the black spots Society.) India. tant things recently: adores it; another fears it. (To be concluded) world. others (1976). on the hind wings may get hid- Preston Ahimaz CMYK 6 MADRAS MUSINGS July 1-15, 2008

Yet life was full of excite- ment, every Sunday being en- livened by the first division The Narrow Road league cricket match played on the famous Railway grounds, one of the few home grounds owned by a club, patterned on (Current Affairs questions are to the North minor county club grounds of from the period June 1st to England, with a tile-roofed pa- 15th. Questions 11 to 20 per- ere is a tip on gamesman- all commerce, art, culture, me- schoolboy, enjoying the pristine vilion with steps leading to the tain to Chennai and Tamil Hship. The next time some dia, civil administration, eco- cleanliness of brand new ICF- members’ sitting area and a bar, Nadu.) well-travelled friend goes on ex- nomic prosperity and public life built rail coaches, to describe a scorer’s nook and a roller at 1. Who was the Player of the Se- citedly about an exotic country in the city. which we added the exotic new one end of the verandah that ries in the inaugural Indian Pre- you have never visited, perhaps Yet this was not always so. word “vestibule” to our growing mier League that concluded on propped up a manual Austria or Uzbekistan, try this: To the North there was the English vocabulary. June 1st? scoreboard where was recorded Ask him which part of the business and commercial heart- Schooling was a serious affair the score at the fall of each 2. Whose record did Rafael Nadal country he spent most time in. land till the 1960s; and in a then for the new factory labour equal by winning his fourth wicket, end of an innings or in If he says the North, then you much earlier era a place where straight men’s singles title at the class who wanted their children multiples of 10. There was no French Open tennis champion- say, “Ah, but, of course, you’d the animals of the caravans en- to be better educated than they shortage of volunteers to do it ship? find the South is very different, tering the city used to be teth- were. A few classmates of mine more often, scurrying around wouldn’t you?” And, of course, ered, which is still known as El- 3. After five years of futile efforts therefore were from semi-liter- the fence, but the stern eye of to confirm sightings, which pin- vice versa. You can enjoy see- ephant Gate. Immediately adja- ate families who had a touching the scorer and his marker-assis- niped has been announced as of- ing his jaw drop at your vast cent to the station was an area faith in the school as an institu- tant kept us at bay. A typical ficially extinct and becomes the general knowledge! of small, cheap lodges for the tion and the teacher as the re- railway-style railing fence went only seal to vanish due to human The strange truth of the small traders and occasional pository of wisdom and culture. right round the “library” causes? matter is that everywhere – the visitors from the countryside to Many of our humble teach- grounds as it was called and the 4. What important decision hap- US, Britain, Italy, Germany, stay, and a maze of lanes and ers of those days, it must be said inner entrance gave on to a pened on June 6th as regards the Spain, France, China – some- bustling alleys that generally to their credit, lived lives of cream-tinted colonial building, Democratic Party’s chances in thing fundamentally different went by the name of , quiet struggle, an honest exist- all pillars and verandahs, hous- the American Presidential elec- separates life in the North from Mint or just “Town”. ence from meagre salaries. ing the Anglo Indian Institute, tions? that in the South. This is true the social centre of the commu- 5. Apple’s new mobile device un- of cities too, as I discovered nity and venue of dances and growing up in the North Ma- veiled recently is called…? We publish this article written by parties. Quite why it was called dras suburb of . the library building we never 6. What record did IBM’s ‘Road- S. Ramachander many years ago, runner’ set in the world of com- The title of the piece is from found out, but it was clear that puting recently? a book of poems by the Japanese as a tribute to his memory. this establishment stood in a 7. Which ‘new’ European nation poet Basho, which applies also different class from the other adopted ‘Europe’ as its National to what seems an undeservedly ground across the railway line Anthem recently? remote Northern corner of our One of the oldest northern Few looked unkempt or on the less leafy side called the 8. In which Asian capital city was city, because for most of its rul- suburbs where a nucleus of the sloppy in their dress, although Southern Railway Indian Insti- the Global Summit of Women ers and high society, it still re- professional classes emerged is it must have cost them a bit to tute. In any event, their team (GSW), informally called the mains an area of darkness, Perambur, defined by the mas- maintain freshly laundered was not of the same rank to us “Davos for Women”, held re- reached by narrow lanes. There, sive presence of Binny’s at one clothes all the time. Eking out schoolboy spectators as they cently? the dark satanic mills grind and end and the Railway complex on the teacher’s income with pri- hadn’t graduated to the first di- 9. Why was a British Indian busi- belch out soot and smoke, the the other and, much later, the vate tuition was such a rarity vision. nessman, Virendra Rastogi, in the centuries-old roads are forever factories of the ‘Simpson’ group. that neither the teacher nor the The only other Sunday treat news for all the wrong reasons, re- congested, and the poor toil and The Buckingham & students cared to reveal the worth mentioning was the cently? sweat for the Sahibs of the Carnatic Mills on the periphery need for the extra help. chance to have a few knocks 10. Name the Indologist who was South! was a huge hive of activity em- Land was available for the around the boundary during the presented with the Padma To this day, many residents ploying at its peak over 13,000 asking and at throwaway prices, lunch interval and impress any Bhushan by the External Affairs and visitors have little to do workers, which made it one of but that didn’t matter much of the adult player-heroes who Minister Pranab Mukherjee re- with anything that lies to the the largest employers and con- anyway to people who had little deigned to look on, with the cently and who became the first three sides, other than the tributors to the local economy to throw away. The genteel occasional rash pull or stylishly Chinese to receive the honour. front, of Central Station, the then. To the other side was the educated classes, compelled to mimed late cut. When cricket * * * traditional entry point into the “joint” office of the MSM and live within an invisibly marked was off, Sundays dragged on 11. Which place in Chennai has metropolis. What life is like be- SIR, the two original rail com- line of separation from the with no escape from homework, been referred to as ‘Vrundha- yond the railway junction, and panies that merged seamlessly working class, were on an ex- unless the morning show at a raNyam’ (beautiful garden) in or Perambur, which into the Southern Railway. The cruciatingly tight monthly bud- nearby cinema featured the rare Puranic scriptures? are technically much closer to majestic Integral Coach Fac- get exactly equal to the take Tarzan or Laurel & Hardy or 12. Which temple in the State the downtown area than, say, tory, a dream project of the new home pay. All excursions, holi- Abbott & Costello films, as represents Chandrastalam (asso- Besant Nagar, is a mystery to India, was ushered in to coin- days, feasts and special pur- ciated with the moon)? many. It is as if the southern di- cide with the Congress, chases awaited the annual bo- 13. What is the actual name of rection of the map monopolised to which I was taken as a nus from the factory! (Continued on page 8) the entity commonly called ‘’? 14. Tyche Life and Indian Soil are textile brands of….? Subscriptions and contributions CHENNAI HERITAGE 15. Which two districts border G No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 Pudukkottai District in the Since Volume XIV, No.1 (April 16, 2003), Madras Musings has been priced at Rs.5 a copy, ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION: Rs.100/-. Please make out your cheque only to I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List No...... ) / I have southwest? CHENNAI HERITAGE and send it, together with the COUPON, to CHENNAI just seen Madras Musings and would like to receive it hereafter. 16. Which Tamil hit was a re- HERITAGE, 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 or C/ make of the Telugu Okkadu? O LOKAVANI SOUTHERN PRINTERS PVT. LTD., 62/63, GREAMES ROAD, CHENNAI I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for 17. Which Tamil writer was 600 006. Rs. 100 (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI HERITAGE, MADRAS, An ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION of just Rs.100 covers only a part of our costs. Cor- awarded Sahitya Akademi award as subscription to Madras Musings for the year 2007-08. porate support and YOUR support will continue to be essential for Chennai Heritage posthumously for his play and Madras Musings to play a greater role in creating awareness about the city, its As token of my support for the causes of heritage, environment and a better Pisiranthaiyar? heritage and its environment. 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(Answers on page 8) — The Editor July 1-15, 2008 MADRAS MUSINGS 7 The decline of A stormy petrel Manikkodi of journalism uppuswami Srinivasan was (Continued from delineated required him to be small group of regular contribu- K born in Sirkazhi on May 30, lavish with description and in- tors, but it had considerable in- 1899 and studied in Presidency last fortnight) College, Madras, where he com- terpretation. He may have fluence. Va. Raa., born a Brah- hitti wrote: “It was a rare pleted his post-graduation. While been, as a consequence, prone min, rejected the strictures of he was pursuing his studies in law, Cprivilege for me to have to indulge in excessive analysis his class and caste; he and his C. Rajagopalachari invited him to been welcomed into this gallery of his characters, but owed his contributors felt free to experi- serve on the staff of the National of distinguished writers. While success to his narration of prob- ment with Tamil as well and School that had been established I was not as dedicated a creative lems in the human situation. they were inspired by Bharati. when Mahatma Gandhi fired a writer as the members of this Chidambarasubramaniam, on After the disappearance of nation’s patriotism. But before gallery, I was interested in seri- the other hand, was steeped in Manikkodi, many of its regular long, Srinivasan drifted into ous literature, though I began the traditional culture of the contributors went to work with journalism, which was to remain his forté. writing in lighter vein initially. I country and bestowed great at- Dinamani, an important news- He first joined the Daily Express, then Swarajya founded by was more like the circus clown tention on the fundamentals of paper read by middle classes in T. Prakasam. He had a spell with Tamilnadu before he came who parodies the feat of the human existence. His style is as Tamil land. Others went into under the adventurous influence of the legendary Sadanand strong man in the rings. On limpid as the flow of thought in other communications media who started the Free Press News Agency which, true to its more than one occasion I was his characters. Another writer, such as the radio; they included name, strove always to be free in expression during an era of myself surprised to find that I T. J. Ranganathan, believed in P. G. Sundararajan (pen-name curtailed freedom. After working as the Agency’s Central As- sembly Correspondent in Delhi for a time, Srinivasan went to had achieved some success in direct narration without re- Chitti), an important critic, short story or essay.” He added, London to cover the proceedings of the Sankaran Nair Com- course to extraneous devices. who wrote a book about Bharati mittee, which was set up by the Government of India to work in “Ku. Pa. Rajagopalan, who and Tamil writing.” association with the much-hated Simon Commission on re- passed away four years before Richard Stanton Kennedy, who undertook research on the The days spent with Va. Raa. forms to India. His work there for more than 18 months marked Pudumaippiththan, had also him out as a stormy searcher after the uncomfortable truth, and left a rich legacy of lasting qual- Tamil short story, said in his and Manikkodi were regarded as his capacity to discover things in the face of official resistance ity in his short stories. He rev- Ph.D. thesis, “Manikkodi at this being part of the golden era by and unnecessary curbs soon attracted the attention of the en- elled in dealing with human re- point was in a transitional stage the group of writers who partici- tire journalistic world. lationship, especially between between being primarily a po- pated in the literary adventure. litical nationalist magazine and Meanwhile, the founder Srini- Returning to India at a time when the struggle for freedom man and woman, with a deli- was at its height, Srinivasan assumed the editorship of The Free cacy and tact befitting a diplo- becoming the literary journal of vasan had to go to Bombay to Press Journal, the powerful mouthpiece of the Congress and mat. His portrayals of charac- look after the Free Press Journal. which had been declared unlawful. When the publisher, ters in embarrassing situations Srinivasan had asked Chokka- Sadanand, was punished for an editorial by Srinivasan, the lat- are like miniature paintings. His lingam to look after the business ter took the issue to the courts. Srinivasan’s contention that the sense of form in the short story G by side of Manikkodi. It was not article was not illegal was upheld by the High Court. The rest- is evident in his choice of K.R.A. NARASIAH much, as the magazine had a less spirit which was to possess Srinivasan later was first themes, which enables him to circulation of less than one glimpsed when, soon after this incident, he left the journal and thousand, but was sought after went to Benares to learn Sanskrit on the banks of the Ganga sketch in the essential details and assimilate the spiritual essence of Hinduism. without resorting to interpreta- by many aspiring writers. tive incursions. He would cre- the latter half of the decade. In Within a year of its existence, The call of the country, however, proved irresistible and ate tension in the mind of the the early editions, Va. Raa. con- Va. Raa. was relieved of the edi- Srinivasan soon returned to throw himself heart and soul into reader which is as intense as the torial responsibilities by the freedom movement. He was responsible for the continued tinued to write political essays publication of the Congress’ underground bulletin. He was re- suspense undergone by the while an occasional short story, Chokkalingam under circum- stances that sometimes plagued warded with 15 months’ imprisonment, which he spent in Nasik characters. His famous story often written by B. S. Ramaiah, Jail! Vidiyumaa is a case in point. . . the subsequent editor of even the most distinguished movements in public life. The Where Pudumaippiththan’s Manikkodi, or a review of music K.R.A.N. voice is resounding, Raja- appeared. What Manikkodi re- incident, which disturbed many gopalan’s is a mild whisper. ally was introducing to Tamil writers like Chitti was never ex- Va. Raa. (V. Ramaswami Iyen- published every Thursday, to a Both have attempted with great literature at this point was a plained and the trio who began gar) its editor, T.S. Chhokkalin- bi-monthly, mainly for short success to deal with what new sense of criticism. . . The the journal never met to discuss gam, who was managing the stories, with an occasional appeared in their day a contro- real contribution Manikkodi it. It was obvious that clash of business, had problems with Va. political essay thrown in. P. versial theme, namely sex. Raja- made at this stage was to intro- egos was at the bottom of the Raa. within a year. Ramaswami assumed charge of gopalan may be said to have duce regular essays on topics of whole affair. publishing. But a financial crisis pioneered this departure from literary criticism. In the Decem- When Va. Raa. was engaged What V. Sundaram had to made the publication to cease conventional themes. He suc- ber 17, 1933 issue, Srinivasan in spreading the Congress mes- say during the Golden Jubilee in 1939. The number of short ceeded more by understanding began the weekly article ‘Re- sage, touring the Coimbatore year of Manikkodi sums up the stories written by star writers of than by vivid description where porter Ramayanam’ in which area, the Manikkodi issue dated short lived magazine’s glory: “It that day in Manikkodi’s 46 issues he had to deal with repressed writers discussed the problems October 21, 1934 carried this is usual for critics and chroni- was B.S. Ramaiah (20), N. emotions and extra-marital ex- of literary criticism in the short message: “It is published in the clers of modern Tamil writing to Pichamurthy (11), Pudumaip- cursions. Pudumaippiththan, story, novel and the puranas.” refer to Manikkodi as the ac- Press that Manikkodi editor Sri on the other hand, pictured the Ramaswami Iyengar spoke in pithan (S. Vridhachalam) (17), Prof. Brian Weinstein of knowledged mouthpiece of a Ku. Pa. Rajagopalan (6), Chitti nature of stark desire with as- Literary Renaissance in Tamil. many places. This is wrong tounding realism. Both steered Howard University observed in statement. We wish to inform (12), C.S. Chellappa (12), N. an article:“While Bharati was Manikkodi was indeed an avant- Chidambara Subramanian (10), clear of any tendency to titillate garde journal, setting new that there is no connection the reader. They had the bal- alive, a small group of wealthy whatsoever between Sri Rama- Mouni (8), T.J. Ranganathan Tamils, such as a police official, trends, establishing new norms, (1), Sangu Subramanian (3), anced outlook resulting from proclaiming new values, de- swami Iyengar and Manikkodi – their experience in handling a Krishnaswamy Iyer, and the Editor”. K.N. Subramaniam (Ka. Naa. Mandayam family in Madras, stroying old customs, and up- Su.) (4), Ke. Raa. (17), P.M. variety of themes, which helped holding new ideas. Though it In October 1934, Va.Raa. them to distinguish between paid his printing costs. After his Kannan (8), Sundha (Meenak- death, Va. Raa., a writer, critic died within six years of its birth, took over the editorship of shi Sundaram) (8), M. V. obscenity and sex, as well as be- it achieved its avowed mission Veerakesari, published from Co- tween reportage and realism.” and editor, publicised Bharati’s Venkatram (9). style and form; Va. Ra. encour- of proclaiming to all the world lombo. T.S. Chokkalingam Then there were others who aged younger Tamil writers in that Tamil literature is a move- joined the Dinamani, as its Edi- (Concluded) joined the rich tradition set up the 1930s and 1940s to study ment and not a condition; a tor, and K. Srinivasan left for by these writers. and made the Bharati and to resist the temp- journey and not a harbour.” Bombay to assist Swaminath AUTHOR’S NOTE: All Sadanand again with his short story the vehicle of their tation to write in English. The Publication of Manikkodi Free material culled from my Sadha- self-expression, like C. S. main vehicle for his message started on September 17, 1933, Press Journal. rana Manithan, a biography of Chellappa and Chidambara- was his literary review in and the journal folded in 1939. In March 1935, B.S. Chitti P.G. Sundararajan, and subramaniam. The meticulous Manikkodi. Like so many other Though it existed less than six Ramaiah took over as the Edi- from the blog Chitti recollects in care with which the sentiments avant-garde reviews, Manikkodi years, it had made an impact. tor of Manikkodi and converted the net sponsored by Korea N. of Chellappa’s characters were had a limited audience and a While K. Srinivasan had made the weekly, which was being Kannan. 8 MADRAS MUSINGS July 1-15, 2008

Students to get lessons Synes of the Tymes t a hotel: ‘Help! We need inn-experienced people’. A On a butcher’s window: ‘Pleased to meat you.’ in Indian heritage On a roller coaster: ‘Watch your head’. On a drycleaner’s window: ‘Drop your pants here’. ow many school- and col sult in a tremendous growth of The students are expected to On a parking space at a garden nursery: ‘Reserved for plant Hlege-goers know about the creativity in the various forms of pass on their knowledge to the manager’. little historical monuments art, he added. community. The Ministry has At an auto repair shop: ‘May we have the next dents?’ tucked away in their neighbour- Under the scheme, student recommended an outlay of Rs. At a New England church: ‘Will the last person to leave hood? Or, for that matter, volunteers will be trained by 1 billion for the Eleventh Five please see that the perpetual light is extinguished?’ about the rich literary and the- scholars, educationists and art- Year Plan (2007-12) and Rs. At a shoestore: ‘Come in and have a fit’. atre traditions of India? ists. The students would also be 200 million for the annual plan In front of a carwash: ‘If you can’t read this, it is time to wash Blame this lack of knowledge engaged in recording and docu- 2007-2008. your car’. on the “ill-effects of globali- menting the most threatened Under the scheme, master At a cocktail lounge, Norway: ‘Ladies are requested not to sation”, says the Culture Minis- forms of cultural heritage. trainers – either teachers, lec- have children in the bar’. try which is planning to teach turers or university officials – At a Budapest zoo: ‘Please do not feed the animals. If you young students about Indian will be selected who, in turn, G by have any suitable food, give it to the guard on duty’. culture and heritage, be it will select 100 student volun- Doctor’s office, Rome: ‘Specialist in women and other dis- monuments, art forms or litera- KAVITA BAJELI-DATT teers. eases’. ture. This volunteer group will Information booklet about using a hotel air-conditioner, Ja- The Ministry has set up a then be asked to develop a dis- pan: ‘Cools and heats: If you want condition of warm air in your Cultural Heritage Volunteers “There is a need to protect trict cultural map on the rich room, please control yourself’. (CHV) scheme and submitted young people from margina- heritage of their area. The heri- At a Nairobi restaurant: ‘Customers who find our waitresses it to the Planning Commission lisation and neglect by ensuring tage could include oral tradi- rude Ought to see the Manager’. this month (June), under which their social inclusion and in- tions, music, dance and theatre, On the grounds of a Nairobi public school: ‘No trespassing about 12,000 senior secondary volvement in civic and cultural social practices, rituals and fes- without permission’. schools and 5,000 colleges will programmes,” the Ministry said tive events, practices regarding At a Mumbai restaurant: ‘Open seven days a week and week- be covered. in its proposal. nature and traditional crafts. ends too’. They will be trained on the “While looking at the They could also list sites that At a Tokyo bar: ‘Special cocktails for the ladies with nuts’. lines of the National Cadet present state of affairs or the bear witness to multiple cultural At a Moscow restaurant lobby near a Russian Orthodox Corps, but in the field of cul- prevailing conditions in India, it identities, list deteriorating monastery: ‘You are welcome to visit the cemetery where fa- ture, a Ministry official stated. is seen that the ill-effects of monuments, artefacts, books, mous Russian and Soviet composers, artists, and writers are The training would inculcate in globalisation are slowly and manuscripts and historical ob- buried daily except Thursdays’. students the ability to appreci- gradually killing the basic tenets jects. – (Courtesy: Hindustan ate art and culture and will re- of our cultural ethos.” Times) – Collected by T.M. Sundararaman THE NARROW ROAD TO THE Answers to Quiz (Continued from page 6) called off at a moment’s notice 1. Shane Watson; 2. Bjorn Borg; 3. Caribbean Monk Seal; 4. Senator NORTH as punishment for an instance Hillary Clinton formally ended her presidential campaign and endorsed of routine mischief getting out support to Barack Obama; 5. Apple iPhone 3G; 6. It became the world’s jungle lore or harmless slapstick the whistle of the train on most fastest computer and is designed for a peak performance of 1.7 petaflops; were the strict parental limits of days, starting with the earliest of hand. 7. Kosovo; 8. Hanoi; 9. He was given a 9½ year jail sentence after being our permissible recreation. Mail trains that came tearing Adyar, of course, was land’s found guilty of defrauding some 20 banks of more than £350 million in one Tickets cost half a rupee, and a past the sleeping suburb just end then and a village of the biggest frauds in recent banking history; 10. Ji Xianlin. few more paise brought us before dawn. We only felt any where some of the electric fresh, roasted, spicy groundnuts sense of being a part of the rest trains used to terminate during * * * wrapped in old newspaper. of the city when we went on off peak, presumably due to 11. Tiruvallikeni or ; 12. Tingaloor Kailasnathar; 13. Tamil Train spotting, which cost very rare visits to cousins on the obvious lack of customers Nadu Co-operative Milk Producers’ Federation Limited; 14. Lakshmi nothing at all, was another other side or saw off a visiting for their services beyond Mills; 15. Ramanathapuram and Sivaganga Districts;16. Ghilli; 17. natural occupation in this area; uncle at Central Station, both that point. (Courtesy: Business Bharatidasdan; 18. Greenway’s Road; 19. T. Rajendar; 20. ‘Cho’ S. and we could tell the time by of which were treats likely to be Line) Ramaswamy.

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