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march 2015

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Editor-in-Chief Stephen George Senior Editors Oscar Holland, Will Philipps, Karoline Kan, Marianna Cerini Assistant Editor Vivid Zhu Designers Tin Wu, Qian Nan Yang Staff Photographer Noemi Cassanelli Contributors Andrew Chin, Stan Aron, Alex Taggart, Mia Li, Trevor Marshallsea, Nikolai Blackie

Urbanatomy Media

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2 | march 2015 | www.thatsmags.com editor's w i n Jay Electronica, as appearing on March 17 at the note Jue Music and Art Festival march

One man’s trash is another man’s treasure, and so it is true of weird buildings. You say, “abominable eye-sore” – I say, “stunningly attractive.” The point being, concepts of taste are entirely subjective and open to interpretation. President Xi Jinping – who We‘re giving away last year publically called for an “end to weird architecture” – no doubt has his own take on what constitutes weird, though he has so far chosen not to elaborate. The absence of an of- tickets to some of the - tive) has left many, myself included, wondering what it might mean for Beijing. biggest events, parties ficial clarification following Mr. Xi’s remarks (weird, it appears is ambiguous as well as subjec Literary Festival in 2013, American author Lionel Shriver publicly declared the capital to be and talks at both the Granted, this city is not everyone’s idea of a beautiful place. During a talk at the Bookworm willingness to experiment with bold architectural forms to be among its primary attractions. JUE Music and Arts the ugliest city she had ever seen. Each to their own. Personally, I’ve always found Beijing’s Festival and The But what do the people responsible for designing these buildings think? For this month’s Bookworm Literary bestCover and Story worst (page buildings. 34), I meet with seven of the most exciting architects currently working out of TheBeijing Cover to getStory their also responses provided to me Mr. with Xi’s one comments, last opportunity and find outto work their alongside views on the excepcity’s - Festival, alongside tionally talented Noemi Cassanelli before she leaves China later this month. Noemi, whose a whole other host willphotography be hugely features missed andprominently we wish throughouther the very this best month’s of success Cover in her Story, future has endeavors.been an essential of free meals, drinks part of what we’ve been trying to achieve at the magazine since our redesign last March. She discounts and Elsewhere in the magazine, Karoline Kan investigates the authorities’ efforts to clamp down- on the ancient practice of fortune telling (page 10); Andrew Chin previews the very best of - giveaways throughout the forthcoming JUE Music and Arts Festival (page 24); Oscar Holland has breakfast with mys nextterious time, London stay weird dubstep Beijing. pioneer The Bug (page 26) and Will Philipps meets the man respon March. Scan the QR sible for crafting Great Leap Brewing’s new must-try pizza menu (page 54). And so, until the code below and follow Stephen George us on Wechat for your Editor-in-Chief chance to win. We're Hiring We’re expanding our sales team – come with readiness to work overtime where and work for China’s leading English- required – a good work ethic is vital. language media company. A full-time We’re looking for a candidate with one position, the ideal candidate will be an to two years of sales experience in the outgoing and driven young professional advertising industry and an established with excellent communication skills. track record. Bilingual English/Chinese The job will require the establishment, written and verbal skills are a must. Col- development and maintaining of relation- lege degree preferred. ships with clients, both new and current, Candidates should be comfortable FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA in order to generate new business. Addi- working in an international environment, tionally, you will be required to write clear while a knowledge of all things Beijing is Thats_Beijing and effective proposals, and work with a vital. If you think this sounds like you, send team to produce weekly reports. The job a resumé and cover letter to bjadvertis- twitter.com/Thats_Beijing requires a minimum 40-hour, 5-day week, [email protected]. facebook.com/pages/Thats-Beijing

www.thatsmags.com | march 2015 | 3 QUOTE OF THE MONTH

“Conservation is important, for a

something you should do artificially, ornumber at the ofexpense reasons, of butinnovation. it’s not Stifling creativity is dangerous” Architect James Shen offers his view on the future

of Beijing’s built environment, page 42. 6 CITY

8 TALES OF the CITY Beijing mayor courts controversy by calling the city “unlivable.” 9 CONFUCIAN COUNSEL

Sugardaddy be called upon? When times are hard, should a 15 urban dictionary The unstoppable force of Chinese 8 consumerism explained.

16 LIFE & STYLE

17 spotlight

Chinese craftsmanship alive. Michelle Chan on keeping 18 fashion

amalgamation to follow. ‘Athleisure’ is this season’s fashion 20 SCENE & HEARD Unique boutiques and stylish new 20 openings reviewed.

22 ARTS

26 THE BUG “In China I want to physically and mentally test people.” 31 HORATIO CLARE

One of many writers appearing at32 the MI Bookworm’sCHAEL MEYE LitR Fest. That’s-writer-turned-best-selling- author on his latest, In Manchuria. 26

50 EAT & DRINK

53 SERBIA BURGER

be crying out for. The restaurant concept we’ve all 54 PIZZA PILGRIMS

We all know Great Leap can do beer56 RAG – whatER aboutPIE pizza? 53 pies, we calmed down. We came, we raged, we ate five

4 | march 2015 | www.thatsmags.com THE WRAP

34 Strange days are these

How have Beijing-based architects reacted to calls for an end to ‘weird’ architecture?

10 FADING FORTUNEs Uncertain futures for Beijing soothsayers under police scrutiny.

24 JUE FESTIVAL 2015

and arts festival returns. The nation’s most vibrant alternative music

www.thatsmags.com | march 2015 | 5 THE BUZZ

RANDOM MOUTH FULL OF SOUTH NUMBER "If you have a milkshake... Wondering why that glass of tap water you and I have a milkshake... regularly enjoy tastes a little fresher than and I have a straw; there usual? The chances are that you’re one of the it is, that's the straw, see? watch it. My straw 5 million Beijing residents now enjoying water reaches across the room... brought to the capital from a tributary of the and starts to drink your Yangtze River, over 1,200km away. Designed milkshake: I... drink... to alleviate the drought facing the north of the your... milkshake! I drink it up!" country, China’s landmark south-to-north water … is the number of guide dogs in Beijing, despite there being over diversion project is the largest of its kind in the 67,000 blind people in the capital. The good news is that all ten of world. The amount of ‘southern’ water siphoned them will be allowed on the subway from May 1, provided their (very) away to Beijing is set to double by May, with lucky owners can present a ‘certificate of visual difficulty’ and a 9.5 billion cubic meters a year expected to be guide dog license. redirected to northern regions by 2030.

6 | March 2015 | www.thatsmags.com [email protected]

NO FOREIGNERS, NO PROSTITUTES, Ask a Laobeijing NO DUNG BEETLES We met 78-year-old Mr. Liu – who was laden with fresh A ban on naming Beijing streets after vegetables – on his way home to prepare lunch for his foreigners or Chinese leaders could be grandson near Dongsi. introduced under new proposals drafted by the capital’s municipal authorities. Guidelines on the naming of roads, plazas and alleys could also spell the end for names containing “vulgar” words – of which there are actually quite a few. Historically, it was nelli N O EMI cassa BY P HOTO not unknown for hutongs to be named nelli N O EMI cassa BY P HOTO after animal excrement or local prostitutes. The clever use of homonyms has already What do spared some blushes, with ‘Dung Beetle you think (qiang lang) Hutong’ being renamed as the of western identical-sounding ‘Always Shining Hutong.’ fast food like McDonalds? “I don’t allow my grandchildren to eat McDonalds, or any other fast food. I think it’s all rubbish! I don’t trust anything that can be prepared that quick. It’s got no nutritional value and no flavor! I don’t understand why it’s so popular in China, especially among little kids. I guess they’re adding sugary ingredients and other stuff that kids love. They use other tricks too, like designing stuffed dolls to give to the kids as gifts. But who are they fooling? The cost of those bizarre little ‘gifts’ are covered in the cost of the meal. Quote of the Month I only eat in Chinese restaurants when it’s absolutely necessary, for example during special occasions like “I was looking for Spring Festival or family weddings. Every other day of the year, I cook myself. I don’t trust other people to cook something fun to do” my food. I think it’s important that you’re able to see the process and see what you’re putting inside your mouth! These are the words of the 16-year-old There is a traditional Chinese saying that goes: ‘sickness Mass Migration boy allegedly responsible for starting comes from your mouth,’ which is so true. If you have to a major fire at the Bairong Shimao A specially designed heat map go to a restaurant, make sure that it’s a big one. There department store in Dongcheng last produced by tech giant Baidu are so many advertisements in the street offering “RMB10 month. The blaze was started by the teen, shows China’s annual Spring set lunch!” Dare you believe it and try? The ads usually who is understood to be an employee at Festival migration in real time. have a phone number and that’s it – not even an address! one of the stores, and reportedly took 71 Note the darkness over much Imagine if you got sick, you wouldn’t even be able to find hours and 850 firefighters to extinguish. of Tibet, Xinjiang and Qinghai. the people responsible! My grandchildren love foreign fast food. Their generation are growing up with it. At first, their parents took them to try it because it was the trendy thing to do, but gradually the kids became addicted. I always warned my grandchildren when they were young: ‘Be careful what you eat, or you will become little fatties!’ There seems to be lots of news concerning food safety. It’s scary. These days, people put anything into food. They don’t have any of the traditional virtues like honor, kindness and responsibility when it comes to making money. And it’s not only street peddlers taking shortcuts. Take McDonalds for example. When it first came to China, everybody took it as an industry model, people trusted it so much. But in the recent years, we’ve witnessed the failing of the fairy tale. A foreign name is not a guarantee of good quality.” As told to Karoline Kan

www.thatsmags.com | March 2015 | 7 city | tales TALES

From smog to hukou reform

Mayor Wang’s crusade for ‘liveability’

omewhere in the promised “heads on a platter” Beijingers should be relieved arguably more important form job description for should it not improve by 2017. to hear a dose of realism from of liveability he addressed – a capital’s mayor – His plans to achieve this are their Henan-born mayor. hukous for migrants. Indeed, buried amid all the notable for their ambition. In And, beneath the ‘unliveable’ what good is clean air if you are politics and hand- addition to the government’s headlines, there were other without access to basic public shaking – one might national-level pledges, Wang promising signs – Wang services? expect to find: announced a RMB760 billion also branded the strategy of At the conference, Wang ‘promoting the city in a positive strategy at the beginning of last relocating industry to Hebei hinted at the introduction of a light.’ Or something similar. So year, targeting coal-burning and Tianjin “irresponsible.” points-based system in Beijing although Beijing’s struggle with industries and polluting Perhaps as a former resident which could ultimately allow air pollution comes as news to vehicles, while setting local of Tianjin (where he studied at newcomers to claim permanent absolutely nobody, mayor Wang governments emission quotas. Nankai University) the mayor is residency. Sure enough, less Anshun’s brutal honesty on the Sadly, results have not quite more sensitive than most to the than two weeks later, China’s matter made headlines, with matched the rhetoric. Beijing shortfalls of an ‘out of sight, out top economic planner, the his claim that the capital is “at has already missed Wang’s of mind’ approach. National Development and the present time... not a liveable first target of reducing PM2.5 Sadly however, what was Reform Commission (NDRC), city.” levels by 5 percent over the forced out of sight and mind announced the trial of such a It would be easy to sneer at course of 2014. While the actual after the annual government credit system in Tongzhou. the irony: a complaint about reduction of 4 percent is not to conference (where Wang made As with the models already the environment put forward be sniffed at, PM10 went up by his controversial comment) in use in parts of Shanghai, by a former petroleum industry 7.1 percent in the same period. was the issue of unsustainable Guangzhou and Tianjin, the official who, before his move Exchanging small pollutants for population growth that lay at pilot will allow migrants to into politics, was responsible larger ones constitutes a rather the heart of the mayor’s speech. gain a hukou (and thus access for oil exploration in Jilin. But tainted vision of progress. The city may be ‘unliveable’ to welfare, including education Mayor Wang’s tough-talking Nonetheless, Wang is proving but 2014 saw 368,000 new for their children) depending attitude toward pollution is more forward-thinking than arrivals – largely migrants – on how long they have lived in nothing if not honest. After a many of his peers. After years willing to make a good go of the city, their tax contributions heavy bout of smog in January, of official excuses ignoring the it. Pollution was not at the and the stability of their he described Beijing’s air quality source and scale of the problem top of Wang’s agenda, yet the employment, among other as a “life or death situation” and – from fog to barbecues – controversy overshadowed the criteria. Oscar Holland

8 | March 2015 | www.thatsmags.com WWCD | city

What Would confucius do? Modern Dilemmas, Age-Old Wisdom “I’m an 18-year-old girl who wants to be a successful actress. I hope to apply to one of China’s best drama academies but I’ve heard that to enroll, you must pay a huge amount of money to the college and teachers. My family is poor and I don’t want to burden my parents with the cost of my dream but my only other option is to find a rich, older man to support me. I couldn’t face the shame if discovered. It seems there is no perfect option.”

I understand your position as a young girl at have been received from the parents, and It’s better to cut the weed before it grows one of life’s many crossroads. But I have to so one doesn’t dare damage them – that is too strong. tell you the dark side of life: there is no such the beginning of filial piety. Establishing You said you think that most of the thing as a perfect option. The sooner you oneself... and spreading the fame of one’s students who enroll will have bribed the realize this, the less you will get hurt and name to posterity, so that one’s parents colleges and teachers so this, most likely, the fewer stupid decisions you will make in become renowned – that is the end of filial will be the case for you. Nonetheless, you the future. piety.” need to believe in good things, be positive To first adopt a modern perspective: You know that finding a ‘rich, older man’ and have a try. If it doesn’t work, maybe you as an 18-year-old adult, you should be – a sugar daddy – to support you doesn’t are just not the type the profession needs. responsible for, and have the final say on, sound good and you are worried about And who knows whether the failure will all the things you do. However, in the real your reputation. Confucius emphasized the open another door that leads you to a better world, it is not so simple. Who else might importance of shame, arguing that the right world? get hurt besides yourself? Consider your moral and ethical code “will set a sense of parents! shame in people’s mind and thus cure their wang Xuejun is a lecturer at Beijing Language and Your question reminds me of the sin” (The Analects, Weizheng, Chapter 2). culture University, specializing in chinese culture. recent news of the father of a 25-year-old I am sure that if you depend only on his most recent book is entitled teaching Methods Romanian girl whose father killed himself yourself, you will have a brighter future. of chinese Language and traditional culture . send after she posed naked for Playboy. Why You want to be a successful actress but all your ethical dilemma for Professor wang to bjeditor@ should you consider your parents’ feelings? famous actresses will be seen by the public urbanatomy.com Confucius said: “The body, hair and skin, all – what if you must face your shame then? Beijing bestsellers

Fiction Art & Design

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www.thatsmags.com | March 2015 | 9 city | Feature

10 | Marchmarch 2015 | www.thatsmags.com The Fortunate Ones Authorities Crack Down on ‘Fraudulent’ Fortune Telling – but not Everyone is Backing the Campaign

words by Karoline Kan, images by Stan Aron

Left | Fortune Outside Yonghe Lama Temple – the largest and a call of: “Don’t you want to know your fortune?” teller jue hui place of worship for Buddhists in Beijing – a recorded Only one makes no attempt to catch our attention. sits practicing message plays on loop through a loudspeaker, advising Sitting over a wooden desk practicing calligraphy, calligraphy. visitors: “Fortune telling and other forms of superstition 66-year-old Jue Hui tells us that fortune telling is like are fraudulent. Be careful and don’t be fooled!” The fishing – he would rather wait for the fish to take the warning is part of a new strategy aimed at discouraging bait than go down to the river to catch them. But in his what officials believe to be the deceitful practice of profession, the waters are increasingly barren. Interest fortune telling – a centuries-old custom that has, in in these practices is waning – which is why many of his Beijing, centered around the temple and the nearby area. fellow fortune tellers have little choice but to take the Supervising the loudspeaker is 32-year-old Feng initiative – but the loudspeakers by the temple are also Ning, a uniformed chengguan, or urban management taking their toll. official. His work appears easy enough. Aside from “Isn’t it too simple, and too rushed a decision, to just keeping order at the tranquil temple, all he is required announce that all fortune telling is fake?” he asks. “I to do is ensure that the loudspeaker – and others like it, started learning this art and skill when I was 8 years positioned throughout the area – are working correctly. old and my family has studied this subject for several Nonetheless, around 20 chairs have been laid out for him generations. It is the accumulative culture of 5,000 years’ and his colleagues by the urban management company worth of history.” hired to supply chengguan to the area. Hailing from Wutaishan in Shanxi province, Jue Hui “This mission started last November. It is very has seen attitudes towards his trade change dramatically effective,” he explains of the local authorities’ recent in recent years. Before the crackdown, fortune tellers campaign against the entirely legal practice. “You don’t could be found on every corner of Yonghegong Dajie – see any fortune tellers in the street anymore.” the central street that runs past Lama Temple. They may While this may be true for the area immediately have once been competitors for him and his colleagues at surrounding the temple, visitors needn’t look too far to the studio, but their removal has hurt business. find ancient practices still in use and, very publicly, for “It is true that many of them were just frauds. They sale. Outside a small studio on the street leading to the grabbed customers and the first thing they said would nearby Imperial College, Guozijian, a yellow sign offers a be: ‘I see something unfortunate is coming your way. Do range of mystical services: “Telling your fortune, giving you want to stop it?’” he recalls. “Then they would ask you lucky names, providing strategies for love, work and for money. It’s called ‘trade money for safety,’ but the life, and practicing geomancy [the auspicious placement crackdown [on these practices] is making it harder for of buildings].” everyone – even legitimate fortune tellers – to make a The masters – most of whom sport traditional Chinese living.” robes and long beards – stand behind a glass door trying The distinction between self-proclaimed “authentic” to attract clients with smiling eyes, a wave of their hands, fortune teller Jue, who claims he does not charge for

www.thatsmags.com | March 2015 | 11 city | Feature

12 | March 2015 | www.thatsmags.com 2

www.thatsmags.com | March 2015 | 13 city | Feature chinese urban dictionary | city

Previous Page his services and instead relies on “donations,” and the short. In such cases, you should improve the law rather supposedly more fraudulent street practitioners is than forbidding practices through other means – as they Left | Elderly itself blurred. Neither group is regulated and claims of do with the – which is what always happens fortune teller Liu chengguan guangsheng awaits legitimacy are based on assurances alone. when there is a lack of consideration.” clients. “The real frauds are the monks,” he tells us. “They Nonetheless, the Jue Hui appears unperturbed by what charge millions for their practices. Typically, my clients the authorities think of his prophecies, or the impact of Right | a uniformed will pay under 100 yuan, though some are more sincere the crackdown on the studio he works at. “Those who chengguan [urban management and chose to pay more.” are destined to come will come. But I hope they [the official] monitors Modern distrust of fortune telling can be traced back authorities] will realize this world is not all black and activity close to to the 1950s and 60s when it was classified – alongside white. There are some things that can be controlled and Lama temple. geomancy, numerology and fengshui – as one of the managed, and some things that can not. ‘The Four Olds’ that were to be rejected if China was to “This is my right. If someone doesn’t like what I say, I modernize. Not until the period of reform and opening- will just pick up my luggage and go somewhere else. The up in the late 1970s would Jue Hui begin to publicly whole world is my home,” he says, opening a book and peruse his interest in fortune telling once more. And adopting a distinguished air. “If there is black there must while he only took up the practice professionally 10 be white; if there is day, there must be a night. That’s years ago, experience isn’t everything – “You know in the law from the book, The Changes. It has its meaning, this field, the older we are, the more trustworthy we are otherwise why would young people – even those with supposed to be,” he notes. master’s degrees in science – come to me for a [more Expert on traditional cultural practices and researcher auspicious] name? It is unreasonable to just call it at the China Tibetology Research Center, Lyu Jun, superstition.” was surprised when he first saw chengguan and their His neighbor and fellow fortune teller, Liu Guangsheng, loudspeakers broadcasting warnings at Lama Temple. is more cautious, however. After speaking openly on “I asked myself: ‘Isn’t this street emblematic of religion our first visit, he is far more guarded when we return. in Beijing, and even China?’” he explains. “What will Liu is, by his own admission, afraid of the political visitors from other cities and countries think? What will consequences. scholars who visit Lama Temple think of the capital of “It is OK to talk about The Changes but I will charge. China? That it’s full of frauds? No more opinions from me, I don’t want any trouble,” he “I know that today there are so many frauds around says, glancing periodically towards his boss. Liu has, it Lama Temple looking for opportunities to cheat,” he would seem, been warned. continues, though he argues that the official warnings For Lama Temple’s new guard Feng Ning, however, are not a solution but rather an embodiment of officials’ his efforts to make business more difficult for those like laziness. Instead of cracking down on fortune telling, Liu and Jue Hui are reasonable enough: “We are doing Lyu believes that the practice should be regulated by the a noble job by stopping people from being duped – forces of the free market. especially during Chinese New Year when tourists like “The market itself will decide if it should grow, develop visiting Lama Temple. Fortune tellers are all frauds! I or die out,” he says. “The authorities can promote science hope that our tough message means less people waste and technology but that doesn’t mean they should ban their money,” he says, scanning the crowd of tourists, things with spiritual functions, denying the rationality of monks and street peddlers for suspicious behavior. mankind’s spiritual needs. “If things violate social order then they should be some names have been changed, as requested by those interviewed controlled through the law. But sometimes the law falls

14 | March 2015 | www.thatsmags.com chinese urban dictionary | city feature | city

Buy Buy Buy /mai mai mai/ 买买买

by Mia Li

Definition: n. a phrase which refers to excessive purchasing, either individually or collectively, brought about and in reference to the emerging Chinese middle class’ massive spending power.

How to use it: A: Should I get this green dress or the red one? B: Yes. A: What? B: You should get both, so you will have no regrets later. Don't ask which. Just buy buy buy.

A: So what do you normally do for fun on the weekends? B: I spend most of my spare time shopping. A: I mean, do you have any hobbies? I recently got interested in calligraphy. B: Hobbies are a waste of time. Buy buy buy is the only worthy sport to play.

Against a gray backdrop of post-financial-crisis recessions and austerity, one hub of activity shines brighter than all the rest: the buying frenzy of Chinese consumers. A generation of newly wealthy shoppers seems to be buying up everything, from milk powder and handbags to cars and real estate in faraway capital cities. Outside China, they can be found hurriedly pulling banknotes and credit cards from their LV fanny packs in exchange for various items. Back in China, they can be found piling newly purchased items into their homes until the front door is set to burst open with a tidal wave of consumer goods. No-one feels the frenzy more acutely than the Chinese themselves, who sum it all up in this straightforward but perfectly apt phrase: maimaimai, ‘buy buy buy.’ The bluntness of ‘buy buy buy’ encapsulates just how mindless, careless and repetitive the behavior is. No one looks too closely at exactly what they are buying or has the foresight to evaluate whether they really need it. They buy because things are on sale. They buy because so-and-so did. They buy tacky hats and T-shirts because they are on the Great Wall. They buy leather goods because they are in Italy. They buy jumpers at GAP because there is nothing else to do on a Sunday. ‘Buy buy buy.’ Buying is the key to happiness, a security blanket, a marker of success, a show of prosperity, the hard currency of social status, the reward for hard work and pretty much... the answer to everything. Buy buy buy. The consuming must go on. Everything must be acquired and then endlessly upgraded. Otherwise what do you have to show for your hard work and achievements? In China, consumerism is the way to climb a level in the game called life. Everyone must buy buy buy.

By day, Mia Li is a news reporter in Beijing; at night, she tries to turn that news into standup comedy.

www.thatsmags.com | March 2015 | 15 Folio 线 style radar LIFE & STYLE

Covet Under the lens All Hail Wes 9 Dollars Fashion for Photography Yes, yes, we’ve written about A recent project by Tianjin- iPhone covers for this section born photographer Quentin before but these Wes Anderson- Shih entitled 9 Dollars Fashion inspired ones are something for Photography was shot in else. Drawing inspiration from a small coal-producing city in the director’s characteristic Shanxi province. The series playfulness and use of lush features fake luxury goods palettes, they are a delightful purchased at local markets for trifle of quirky cool – and a no more than USD9 per item perfect little homage to his – a humorous look at China’s work. RMB48 counterfeit industry. Shih > www.nuandao.com recruited students as models and styled them with cheap copycats of luxury brands, in an attempt to “explore typical small city lives” in poor, third- tier urban centers in China.

Flower Power Made in China Keeping things green in Beijing Wearable Wood isn’t always so easy. Luckily, Fashion collaborations are all too common modern technology is on the these days. Celebrities will now join forces case. Parrot Flower Power is a with all manner of brands, to the extent sensor that is ‘planted’ close to that designers and high street have become your flowers or shrubs (indoor practically the same thing. The timing and or outdoor) to measure the life cycle of collaborations – from rumor conditions crucial for their and announcement, to the 9am scrum and growth and good health: soil inevitable Taobao or eBay flipping – are as moisture, levels of fertilizer, much a part of the fashion calendar as the ambient temperature and light twice-yearly catwalk schedule. intensity. It might not save Some are admittedly rather forgettable. your greens from the next Others, however, make for some serious airpocalypse but at least you investment pieces. Vega Zaishi Wang x can say you tried. RMB448 Christian Melz’s wooden clutches definitely > store.apple.com fall into the latter category. A joint effort between one of China’s leading fashion designers and a Beijing- based German furniture designer (Wang and Melz respectively), the collection, called Elan, was first revealed during Beijing Design Week last October. It encompasses five clutches crafted from different types of wood in various geometrical shapes – a unique blend of Wang’s edgy, avant-garde aesthetic and Melz’s refined craftsmanship. Light and surprisingly practical, these are not merely design pieces to look at but high fashion accessories to use and show off. Price TBA. > melzdesign.com

16 | march 2015 | www.thatsmags.com Edited by Marianna Cerini / [email protected]

Spotlight overheard Michelle Chan, Senior Sales Consultant at Wu Yong How long have you been working in span of a few years, I was promoted and fashion and how did you start? moved to Milan to oversee her boutique I’ve been in the industry for 40 years but there. That was the 80s – such an exciting entered this world by what I like to think of time for fashion. as faith. I’ve always been drawn to clothes My career took a backseat after I got and objects. I have a feeling for crafts. married. I followed my husband to Asia I was born and grew up in Cambodia. I – Hong Kong first, then Guangdong and remember going shopping with my mother Shanghai. Then, three years ago, I met Ma as a little girl – everything was handmade Ke [founder of art/fashion house Wu Yong] and tailored there – then coming back home and fell in love with her philosophy. She and playing with her purchases to transform asked me to come on board to help with her them in new and interesting ways. And the concept. I agreed and moved to Beijing six magazines she had… I loved looking at them. months ago. Growing up, I used to save all my pocket What’s the philosophy? money to buy fashion magazines. That’s how Reinterpreting and reviving Chinese culture, it all started I suppose. basically – from calligraphy to tea-taking and I moved to France as a young woman and crafts. We only use natural materials and started working for Maud Frison [an iconic local artisans, striving to keep traditions and fashion designer specializing in women’s Chinese craftsmanship alive. We don’t do shoes] in Paris as a shop assistant. In the collections but follow the change of seasons. And we only offer made-to-order services, to avoid any waste. It’s a very organic way “In China, the of approaching clothes, and life in general. cooperation Who is your typical customer? A grown-up, more mature buyer than your between stars and average style-savvy fashion type. Most of our clients have been following Ma Ke luxury brands is for the last ten years. It’s a bespoke, well- learned clientele. not really a search China fashion scene. Thoughts? I like it. Especially in Beijing. There are so for the perfect many young creatives here mixing fashion and trends with their own Chinese-ness combination, but and personal heritage. They do beautifully simple clothes that shine in the details. a search for They reflect my aesthetic. a reasonable Is there any aspect of the industry today you find difficult to deal with? solution” The lack of identity. Everything looks the same. It’s boring. There’s no uniqueness Fashion director of Modern Media Group, – and that’s the case for big brands too. Tim Lim, on the challenge luxury brands face Luckily, young people are starting to when casting celebrity ambassadors in China. change that. Fashion houses appear to feel that domestic Your top places in Beijing. stars who rise to fame through soap operas Temple Hotel, Guozijian and Wudaoying and reality shows lack the sophistication Hutong. I find our old alleys to be rather and individuality necessary to make them inspiring. inspirational to moneyed consumers. As a result, luxury labels keep battling over the Fashion is… same tiny cohort of top Chinese celebs. So Attitude. next time you see another Louis Vuitton ad noemi cassanelli

y > www.wuyong.org featuring Fan Bingbing, you’ll know why –

hoto b p hoto those poor folk don’t have much choice.

www.thatsmags.com | march 2015 | 17 Folio 线 life & style | fashion

1,034.50

Nike hea, Selected Tifi 01ax T 02 Air M reversible bomber, RMB 699 RMB > www.asos.com > www.nike.com.cn

pparel 241.38

American A 359 04 nylon duffle bag, RMB > www.asos.com 03Zara jacquard leggings, RMB > www.zara.cn

Y, READ Y, y gear work out steaD Gym-read you don’t

erini evariannaen C if go by M 18 | march 2015 | www.thatsmags.com M H& sweatpants, 349 RMB > www.hm.com 01

Uniqlo jumper, Adidas RMB149 ale 2014, X-H > www.uniqlo.cn RMB629 > shop.adidas.cn 02 03

402.30 Asos smart carryall, RMB y gear work out > www.asos.com ou don’t Last year, the fashion industry’s buzzword Gym-read y was ‘normcore.’ This year’s must-have portmanteau is ‘athleisure’ – a hybrid of 04 sportswear and everything else in your closet even if (think garbs that look a bit sporty but don’t need to be accessorized with a yoga mat and a smoothie). The trend is one of this season’s biggest, on both high street and catwalks – so it’s only a matter of time until it turns up in Gulou. Folio 线 life & style | arrivals

Scene & Heard words by Marianna Cerini noemi cassanelli y

hoto b p hoto 2

① StellaSport ② Scotch & Soda ③ Sanlipop One of the longest designer/high street In fashion, the Netherlands is generally Sanlipop has been around for a while and brand collaborations to date, Adidas by associated with edgy couture and a Nordic we’re a little ashamed about not giving it Stella McCartney, is now in its tenth year. approach to style – all skinny jeans and some love until now. Stock for this boutique The partnership was way ahead of its time hipster beards. But Amsterdam-based is selected by five friends from different when it popularized the idea that workout brand Scotch & Soda does just the opposite. creative backgrounds, with items – clothes clothes could be stylish (just look at our Founded in the 80s and then re-launched and design pieces – weighted towards indie fashion spread on ‘athleisure’ on page 18) in 2001 with a full line of clothing and labels like Comme de Garcons, Maison and realized that women wear their gym accessories, the brand offers a mix of preppy Kitsune, Andres Gallardo and Florian. clothes in everyday life, not just to the chic and laid-back items that one would A handful of racks and cabinets display gym. Today, with an increasing number of more associate with The O.C. than the land thoughtful edits of garments, jewelry, brands fighting for a share of the sport-chic of legal weed. You can now find their first accessories and home objects. They stand marketplace, the British designer has just Beijing flagship in Taikoo Li Sanlitun North, out in the minimal interior of concrete, taken the concept a step further with the which mainly sells menswear (T-shirts brass, bricks and wood, giving the feeling of launch of StellaSport, a line of activewear- and check shirts, but also dapper items browsing through an arty, almost gallery- meets-athleisure pieces aimed at a younger like tweed jackets and blazers) alongside like space. It’s easy to imagine advertising audience. The collection consists of bold yet a smaller selection of breezy dresses and creatives and designers coming here, practical pieces, from patterned tanks to feminine blouses for the ladies, under the dropping their pay packets, and stopping neon-trim leggings, sneakers and branded brand name Maison Scotch. The concept at the store’s mini espresso bar afterwards. hoodies. All boast fast-drying, climate- is urban wear that’s cool and young – with Don’t worry if that doesn’t sound like you regulating technology (jargon for: helping most pieces achieving this – but don’t expect – the place is also a perfect little treasure make sure you don’t get too hot or cold) Scotch & Soda to become your alternative trove for original gift ideas. and that all-important athlete-off-duty look. to H&M. Why, you ask? The ridiculously > building 1-103, 29 sanlitun bei lu, chaoyang 朝阳区 Regular garments aside, other accessories inflated prices. At RMB1,400 for a shirt, for 三里屯北路 29 号楼 1-103 like backpacks, socks, and hats are also set instance, most budgets would probably only to keep this Adidas brand ahead of the fast- consider it for select purchases. moving pack. > nlg-18, taikoo li sanlitun north, 11 sanlitun lu, > 11 taikoo li sanlitun south, 19 sanlitun lu, chaoyang chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 11 号太古里三里屯北区朝阳区三里屯路 19 号太古里三里屯南区 11 号楼 nlg-18 (6416 7738) 3 noemi cassanelli y

1 hoto b p hoto

20 | march 2015 | www.thatsmags.com

1 P.O.C | life & style

Portrait Zhang Xiuli | 28, Liu Yansi | 4 of China

Where are you from? Zhang: We’re from Xinjiang. I have my own clothing shop, so I recently decided to take some time off and come traveling on this side of China – Beijing first, then

Shanghai. We’re with my mother and assanelli aunt. It’s like a girls’ trip. N oemi C y Do you like it here? Liu: It’s OK. Everything is very different from home. People keep saying it’s cold but I’m not cold. They should visit my hometown. erini / Photo b C erini / Photo M arianna By

www.thatsmags.com | march 2015 | 21 collage

What’s new

Former US Treasury secretary and CEO of Goldman Sachs, Henry M. Paulson, Jr. offers his unique take on China’s economic rise in Dealing with China. Paulson served as a guide to then-Vice President Hu Jintao during his 2002 trip to New York and continued to enjoy access to the political and business leaders of modern China. Available on Amazon. Drumroll Emma Pollock

As well as giving acts like Mogwai, Bis and proud of what we did. Every album is a Arab Strap their first chance through her window to a different stage of development. band’s label, Chemikal Underground, Emma We sounded like a very angular, spiky Pollock was at the heart of Scotland’s prolific American college rock garage band on [debut indie scene as frontwoman of The Delgados. album] Domestiques and began to form a Five years after her sophomore solo album, much more ambitious sound by working she’s putting the finishing touches on a with strings on Peloton. That vision became new disc and will be making her first tour much more fully realized on The Great Multinational Chengdu group Proximity across China, backed by an all-star team of Eastern, and I’m also really proud of Hate Butterfly continue to meld ancient Chinese Shanghai-based Scottish musicians and fans. and Universal Audio. The one consistency instruments with modern cutting-edge across all the albums remains melody and psychedelia on their first album in four On her China tour... song – something that I still prize when years, Medusae. A tribute to the daily It is a wonderful thing to be coming writing. struggles that women face, the album was over to China. My friends are all pretty inspired by frontman Joshua C. Love’s flabbergasted and some are wondering if On Chemikal Underground... mother. Available at downloads.maybemars. they can tag along. A big thing for me are the What has driven us more than anything else org, with a limited edition poster. train journeys – I love trains and I hear the has been our gut instinct and ear. When ones in China are quite fantastic. you hear a new artist with a clear vision of what they want to be, it’s incredibly On her new album... powerful and compelling. We’ve always I’ve basically written this album from the acted quickly to work with young artists ground up with my husband and producer with a sound that we respond to and love. Paul Savage. We’re taking my basic songs One thing that encourages me in this age of and working them up in a manner that commercialized, R&B-influenced pop is that seems best. Some are very pure – just diversity is still king. No one really knows vocals and strings – while others are almost Following in Fargo’s footsteps, 12 Monkeys is what the next surprise, musically, is going entirely composed of sampled noises and the latest acclaimed television adaptation of to be and it’s quite often the less typical, drum loops that sound a lot more playful. a contemporary film hit. Relive the mission different and fresh sound that makes an of James Cole, who travels from 2043 to the On The Delgados... impact. present to prevent the release of a deadly I drew a pretty hard line between The > RMB100; Mar 28, 9pm-late; school Bar (see listings virus that will wipe away 93.6 percent of Delgados and my solo career. I never play for details) the world’s population. Streamable at any of our songs because they belong to, and > RMB100; Mar 29, 9pm-late; DDC (acoustic set, see tv.youku.com. were created by, the four of us. I am really listings for details)

22 | MARCH 2015 | www.thatsmags.com Canvassed Liu Wei, ‘Colors’ T ) RARY AR ONTE MP O RARY ULLENS C ENTE R F O U CCA( O F Y TES OU R C PH OTO

Beijing native Liu Wei is often described as the most important refer to subjects such as urban planning, architecture, fashion and in a generation of artists which emerged in the shadow of China’s biology. ‘Colors,’ however, marks a change in style for Liu: with a rapid modernization towards the end of the 90s. In ‘Colors,’ his sprawling layout and cathedral-like chambers, the artist’s purely largest exhibition to date, he presents an entirely new body of work, aesthetic works allow a more forceful visual impact. Enigma, pictured spanning a range of mediums to create an immersive experience above, is an example of the large-scale abstract forms Liu employs. in UCCA’s large gallery space. Liu is perhaps best known for his > Free on thursdays, RMB10 on other days; until April 17th (closed Mondays) 10am- repurposing of everyday materials to create vast installations that 7pm; uCCA (see listings for details)

Hao Bu Hao Hao Bu Hao After joining Metallica on Regulation of China’s online stage in 2014, rockstar video streaming has begun. Chinese pianist Lang Lang Under new regulations, the returned to the Grammy entire first season of all foreign Awards for the second dramas must be submitted – straight year, teaming up with subtitles – to SAPPRFT with fabled composer Hans before receiving clearance. Zimmer and Pharrell for Both Agent Carter and Empire a tripped-out avant-garde have already been taken rendition of the hip-hop down, with rumors suggesting star’s worldwide hit ‘Happy.’ American Horror Story is next.

www.thatsmags.com | MARCH 2015 | 23

Use of

h o z . Having dipped into acting and dipped into Heart. Having music in back to it was book-writing, album 2013 with her sophomore My Own. >Yugong 21, 8.30pm-late; Mar RMB120-180; Yishan 15 Yo the for best be known may South Korea industry but there’s mammoth K-pop One indie scene developing. a thriving pop princess of its shining stars is folk in 2008 with Since emerging Yozoh. , she’s the charming My Name is Yozoh become an icon, penning theme songs and New Price Coffee like hit dramas for

examines the impact the impact examines orma CCA > 14, RMB80; Mar 10pm-late; Dada gos x F Lo a duel with Offline returns Wooozy First up, Logos has been headliner. up the London underground tearing on futuristic take with his hypnotic Circles the Different grime. He founded are the two label with Mumdance and on a full-length compilation working has meanwhile, Forma, of club tracks. been a standout in the international OFF/ON like scene with releases synth Haptics and Cool EP. The trio are for celebrated live improvisational that expertly shows dance- straddle techno friendly noise. and rock-ish Support comes from Evan, Microlab, Jackie and Sleepless. > RMB60 or RMB30/film; Mar 21, 1.30-9.30pm; 1.30-9.30pm; 21, > Mar RMB30/film; or RMB60 U 14 JUE Film Night and new wave films exploring Three of Chinese the simultaneous emergence at the music will be screened rock Station of Art. First up, Wham! Power documents the Skies In China, Foreign the 80s pop by China tour landmark Children We Christiane F.’s duo while Bahnhof Zoo from youth. Berlin on West Bowie of David , Hall Project The Stuart Last year’s British the well-known celebrating its theorist, will also receive cultural on the Chinese first public screening Mainland. Music scholars, including drummer Jeroen Second Hand Rose’s part in a will take Groenwegen-Lau, 5-6pm. panel discussion from

s r culato Cal

13 Primitive original and meanest One of Australia’s Records’ punk acts headlines Genjing Primitive in 1978, Formed showcase. years two for lasted only Calculators but their influence on the country’s since Reunited music scene remains. is F*cked The World released 2009, they local are in 2013. Supporting them and SUBS. Birdstriking heroes >Yugong 13, 9pm-late; RMB60-80; Mar Yishan 21 from the program, the program, from our highlights are Here with turn the page for in-depth interviews The Bug and Émilie Simon ss ang - Limitle > Yishan Free entry; Mar 12-22; Yugong 12 Wizard T Wizard photographer rock Veteran with his the spotlight into steps Tang Featuring ‘Limitless.’ exhibition, latest as official stunning images captured MIDI, like at festivals photographer mammoth and Japan’s Strawberry advantage takes Summer Sonic, Tang mixing intimate of his official status by Metallica, of bands like portraits and Queen Sea Second Hand Rose on-stage shots. with wild Big Shark opening party goes The exhibition’s in conjunction with the Genjing down Primitive featuring showcase Records 13. March on Calculators 20 Folio 线 Folio Folio 线 Folio feature | arts 16 17 18 19

Jay Electronica Awesome Tapes from Africa

The perennial man of mystery has While on a research trip to Congo, yet to release a full-length album ethnomusicology student Brian since blowing up the hip-hop world Shimkovitz began amassing a cassette eight years ago with Myspace upload, collection of Africa’s music, from Act I: Eternal Sunshine (The Pledge). rhumba to tsongo disco, Ethio-soul Nonetheless, the New Orleans rapper and everything in between. What has all the bona fides (a deal with started in 2006 as a blog has since Jay Z’s Roc Nation, a co-sign from P turned into a full-fledged label that Translation Slam Diddy, beats from Just Blaze, a baby has connected artists like Hailu Mergia The JUE Festival teams up with the with Erykah Badu) and, in 2014, he to global audience through vinyl re- Bookworm for a party that will warm finally dropped his first original song issues. It’s also turned into a constant the hearts of anglophiles and sinophiles in three years. Even without new party, with Shimkovitz rocking a twin- alike. Mesmerizing northeast folk material, classics like ‘Exhibit A’ will cassette tape deck for sets blending singer Song Yuzhe will perform his be enough to draw hip-hop heads to folkloric pop, hip hop beats and left- graceful songs while translators Yugong Yishan. Joining in the fun is field dancefloor gems. compare, contrast and clash over the Miss Ko, the Queens-born rhymer > RMB50; Mar 19, 10pm-late; Dada nuances of his tracks. who has effectively > RMB80; Mar 16, 8-10pm; The Bookworm taken over Taiwan’s rap scene, scoring a coveted Golden Melody Award and receiving praise from singer-songwriter Wang Leehom and Run-DMC. > RMB150-220; Mar 17, 9pm- late; Yugong Yishan

22 For ten days in March, JUE Music and Art Festival will The Loop Line 3 BRT

The LOOP and Pangbianr team up for a rocking bus ride to mark the end of JUE take over the city for the Festival. Local favorites Alpine Decline, Charm, Zhang Shouwang, DJ Kippy and Compact Dicks will perform live on a seventh year straight. bus following Route 3 throughout the day. Jing-A beer will also be setting up shop at the back of the bus for all your craft beer needs. It will be a fully you can find a full lineup of events on functional ride, with the bus making our website www.thatsmags.com/beijing. its regular stops and admission the normal fare. For real-time info on the bus, visit www.bjbus.com and record sounds you hear on the bus using the Loop Beijing app. > Price of a Beijing Bus fare; Mar 22, 2-8pm; Route 3 buses

www.thatsmags.com | MARCH 2015 | 25 Folio 线 ARTS | feature IN THE UNDERGROWTH The Bug on Chinese Sound Systems and Escaping Dubstep

by Oscar Holland

26 | MARCH 2015 | www.thatsmags.com “Yet, critics gushed. Britain’s middle-class bible The Guardian praised Martin’s ‘rampant accessibility’ and singled out the venomous lyrics on ‘Skeng’ for their ‘mordant humor’”

Had Kevin Martin released London trust me, I’m totally anti-formula and as for the first time at JUE Festival. He’ll Zoo – his third album as The Bug – in any far as I’m concerned, they can go f*ck perform alongside Manga who, like Flowdan, year apart from 2008, it might well have themselves,” he declares with a conviction rose to prominence as a member of grime gone unnoticed by mainstream critics. forged over a lengthy career in the music collective Roll Deep. Talking about these live The menacing, reverb-heavy sound woven industry dating back to the late 1980s as shows, the producer comes to life. through its 12 tracks would normally part of industrial bands Ice and GOD. “In China I'll do what I always do, which have been considered too ominous for “Someone who considers themselves is physically and mentally test people. I like most musical palates. This was a dark and a ‘dubstep fan’ and wants to talk purely to use sound systems to literally overwhelm brooding creation. Even the comparatively in terms of dubstep is going to be very people, giving them an experience that radio-friendly single, ‘Skeng,’ featured a disappointed when they come to my nights. bypasses the intellect and goes straight to trudging, distorted beat and sinister vocals There’s echoes of it, but what fundamentally the most primal receptors,” he explains. from grime MCs Flowdan and Killa P (“shot inspired me was dub music – that’s the core Those very sound systems present him inna face make you send for di nurse/doctor of what I do.” with something of a predicament when can’t fix ya send for di hearse”). Stunned by London Zoo’s reception, it playing in China. Although complimentary Yet, critics gushed. Britain’s middle- took four years for Martin to put out further about his previous experiences (especially class bible The Guardian praised Martin’s releases under his Bug monicker, eventually at Shanghai’s The Shelter: “It has a very low “rampant accessibility” and singled out unleashing a string of EPs on his own label, ceiling and the atmosphere is very, very the venomous lyrics on ‘Skeng’ for their Acid Ragga. Another two years would pass good – it’s conducive to my sort of party”), “mordant humor.” With impeccable (or before a new album emerged – 2014’s Martin is renowned in the UK for refusing to perhaps unfortunate) timing, the album Angels & Devils. In the interim, he worked on play at venues that don’t meet his technical had arrived in the year that dubstep broke two well-received records with King Midas requirements. out. Having rumbled in London’s electronic Sound, a collaboration with poet Roger “China's always a bit of a problem for undergrowth since the early noughties, the Robinson and Japanese vocalist Kiki Hitomi sound systems. They aren’t as good as I scene’s pioneers – Skream, Benga, Coki and that offered a more etherial interpretation of normally would expect and also the money Kode9 – were navigating a crossover and dub. [I’ll get for the show] is whack. But people’s making malevolent bass and sparse rhythms “I was a bit panic-stricken about how to energy can compensate for the lack of a the new zeitgeist of British electronic music. follow up London Zoo. I bypassed working system. If you play with the right attitude This posed something of a dilemma for on the record for a while and went into King and give out the right energy you’ll get it The Bug. He may have attracted attention by Midas Sound mode to escape the situation back.” association but, in reality, London Zoo was that I felt that I was in. And to escape And if every show is a quid pro quo, then more a twisted, roots-laden dancehall record dubstep, actually,” he admits. the exchange he credits with inspiring than it was ever part of the dubstep wave. Angels & Devils arrived to more muted his own approach to playing live is seeing “I made the record in a vacuum, fanfare than its predecessor, though critics experimental rock band Swans over 20 years incarcerated in my studio, which was pretty were no less approving. Clash magazine went ago: “What I got in return was tinnitus for much the only place in London I could afford so far as to describe it as “one of the most two weeks. But it was the most incredibly to live,” he recalls between bites of breakfast. stunning documents of 21st century British intense show of my life that’s stuck with me “When I work on a record it’s like tunnel music.” And while the second half of the to this day. They used physicality, volume vision. I don’t have a perspective of what album continued in a familiarly fierce vein and intensity to the max, and those things anything is going to mean to anyone. At the with tracks like ‘F*ck a Bitch,’ ‘F*ck You’ and were attributes I’d always cherished. It was time I was working on London Zoo, I had no ‘Fat Mac’ (including further collaborations anti-everything musical, which impressed idea if it would have more impact than the with Flowdan, who Martin describes as me at the time because I was anti-world. It album I’d made before it. having “probably the best flow in in the UK was one of those moments that you realize “Its success was a convergence of things right now”), the record’s opening half was was crucial in your musical upbringing. that happened – being in the right place at markedly lighter in tone. “Then a year later, when I first moved to the right time, unusually [for me]. It caught “I made a decision that rather than just London, I saw a soundclash between two the label off-guard as they didn’t know scrapping what people saw as my signature reggae sound systems – Iration Steppas and what to make of the record – they weren’t sound, I’d just build upon London Zoo and Disciples. For the levels of psychedelia and particularly positive about it. So for me, it stretch the parameters in both directions,” physicality, and just the concept of sonic was a joy to see cards fall in the way they he explains. “Make it uglier on one side and warfare, it blew my head off. Both of those did.” more beautiful on the other.” shows were fundamental in the knock-on This convergence may have been unplan- The result was a Janus-faced album, effect they had on my mentality towards live ned, but it was not entirely unexpected. the angel and devil of the title seemingly performances. I think shows should be very With appearances at London’s first major represented by its two distinct halves. But special events where you feel like you’ve dubstep nights, FWD and DMZ, and remixes Martin denies that it’s a concept record: “I never heard anything like it before, and go by Kode9 and Loefah dropping ahead of the don’t like the tag. It was never meant to be away in shock. album’s release (reworkings of ‘Skeng’ and that. For me, it was an examination of polar “My live set is pretty uncompromising. ‘Jah War,’ respectively), the scene’s fans were opposites and an examination of good and People will either like it or hate it, stay or go. already familiar with the veteran producer. evil. I don’t see anything in black and white – Actually, thinking back to that Swans show – But he maintains that many of them were our world is kaleidoscopically f*cked up.” within two songs half the audience had left.” unprepared for his heavy live sets. Having already played in China on “Among the worst shows I play are pure numerous occasions, The Bug returns to RMB100; Mar 20, 10pm-late; Dada (see listings for dubstep parties. They want formula but, showcase his new material on the Mainland details)

www.thatsmags.com | MARCH 2015 | 27 Folio 线 ARTS | music

THE MARCH OF THE EMPRESS French Chanteuse Émilie Simon Returns to JUE

by Andrew Chin

“Making electronic music is, for me, like sculpture. You have the tools to sculpt your sound“

Since storming onto the French music scene new direction for the 36-year-old. However, computer remains her preferred songwriting twelve years ago with her award-winning having since returned to singing in French, tool. self-titled album, Émilie Simon has crafted a last year’s disc Mue had Paris on the mind. “Making electronic music is, for me, like reputation for experimental pop in the vein “Mue is an album about romanticism, and sculpture. You have the tools to sculpt your of Kate Bush and Bjork. Paris is almost a character,” she explains. “It’s sound,” she says. “By working on music, my The Montpellier native has won three a bit of a love story and goes through the all sound finds me organically.” Victoires de la Musique (the French the stages – falling in love, contemplation As such, audiences can expect “plenty equivalent to the Grammys) and makes her and unconditional love, but also tears and of electronics,” as she performs alongside return to Beijing on March 20 at Yugong lies.” a drummer and a bassist/guitarist during Yishan as part of JUE Festival. Describing the release as “more open” her tour of China. She admits that some “I have great memories,” she says of her than 2011’s Franky Knight, the songwriter’s songs will closely resemble their recorded 2010 China tour, also organized by JUE latest album – the sixth of her career – versions, but promises the group will stretch Festival’s promotors, Split Works. “I didn’t marks another well-received addition to an out and modify others. know what to expect at all, but the people eclectic discography. It also maintains her “It’s nice to play around with the songs,” were so warm and welcoming. I was greatly self-professed attempt “to make every album she says. “The album versions are a starting inspired by the landscape and I also got a different story,” following in the footsteps point to have fun.” wonderful musical instruments from the of the floral-themed Végétal and her trip.” acclaimed soundtrack to the the Academy RMB150-180; Mar 20, 8.30pm-late; Yugong Yishan With the sounds of New York’s Chinatown Award-winning documentary La Marche de (see listings for details, www.yoopay.cn/event/ among the inspiration for her 2009 English- l’Empereur (March of the Penguins). emiliesimonBJ) language album The Big Machine, traditional But while all of her albums artfully mix Chinese instruments might have marked a guitar, piano, strings and brass, Simon’s

28 | MARCH 2015 | www.thatsmags.com underground | arts

In Berlin, the party inevitably goes on till But now, it’s time for my unforeseen Tuesday. In London, ravers are booted out nightlife column odyssey to end; this the drop into the rain at 6am sharp. As I come up on extended farewell is my self-indulgent 8am five years in Beijing nightlife, I’ve realized baozi. I’m not leaving Beijing or anything Beats, Blops that the impossibility of predicting when – just taking more time to focus on events and Breaks your night will finish is perhaps my favorite with my crew, Syndicate. So, for the last thing about the scene. You pop into Migas time, here are the nights you really should or Dada or Lantern on the way home just to be hitting up this month. see what’s on, get hype, stay till 7am, end It’s fitting that Dada has possibly its up at an after-party, and then hit up the biggest month ever this March, making it baozi man on the way home. This is a city of harder than ever to pick a frontrunner. That unforeseen nightlife odysseys. said, I’m going to punt for Taylor McFerrin My two years spent writing this column on March 4, for the following reasons: have coincided with an explosion in 1) He’ll likely draw a big local crowd; 2) dance music activity in Beijing. From the His music will sound beautiful on a big INTRO Festival saga, to the emergence soundsystem; 3) It’s on a Wednesday, and of internationally recognized artists like you should get out more. Howie Lee, to the formation of UNITE and Big night going down at 8MM this month fundraising for DJ Eric Lee’s brain surgery, with trap music originator UZ; flick to page That’s has given me a platform on which 65 for more on that. Another party label to try and make sense of this boom in the that keeps going from strength to strength, Beijing scene. Street Kids, celebrates its 5th Anniversary So, where do I think it’s going? Well… on March 27 at Migas. True to form, they’re INTRO’s back this year (f*ck yes), three going all-out, with skate ramps, a food- wicked clubs have stayed open for an truck-slash-DJ-booth and bass-heavy unprecedented length of time, Chinese tunes… basically, it’s street with a capital S. producers are going global, the next What are they calling it? Erm… ‘?’ As in, a generation are stepping their game up, even question mark. Nice touch! mainstream clubs are getting in on the EDM Cool, that’s me done. Peace out, and an by Alex Taggart thing. Yep, it’s pretty solid. epic big up to the That’s crew.

www.thatsmags.com | MARCH 2015 | 29 ARTS | music

“We deliver huge sounds, not only to the eyes and ears but also physically to the whole body”

After several aborted attempts, Japanese challenges and pleasures at once,” Atsuo experimental band Boris look set to make muses. “With Noise, we tried to reduce their long-awaited Mainland debut as part recording multiple tracks as much as we of JUE Festival. Vocalist and drummer Atsuo could. Compared to our past albums, there’s promises the wait will be worthwhile. more space and room within the songs. By “Boris is a party band and likes to enjoy being simpler, we’ve made songs that are shows together with the audience. We more complex and attractive.” deliver huge sounds, not only to the eyes and Famous for their nine amplifier set- ears but also physically to the whole body,” up, Atsuo admits “new music tends to be he teases. “You will see how it works.” brought by new gear. Wata won’t play guitar Named after a song by Seattle grunge without vintage Roland Space echo, I love precursors The Melvins, Boris emerged using OSC3 pedal by M.A.S.F. these days from Toyko’s early 90s hardcore scene with and Takeshi has his signature model – a a genre-defying sound that incorporates doubleneck guitar by First Act, which is different styles, ranging from noise rock to enabling us to try more new styles. We have dream pop. also used an Orange Terror Bass amplifier Over the course of 19 albums they’ve for years.” accumulated an international following. Their Beijing show will predominantly Psychedelic Their 2005 disc Pink was chosen as Album comprise of songs from Noise but Atsuo of the Year by US magazines Spin and notes that “even though we don’t change Blender. Last year’s effort, Noise, served the set list very frequently, the songs vary Godzilla only to amplify their musical extremes drastically according to the audience and further, with a heavy mix of sludge-rock, atmosphere. Our priority at shows is to Rock shoegaze, psychedelic doom and crust punk, communicate with our audience.” infused with melodic vocals, such as the Boris Have Come to Party uncharacteristically poppy ‘Taiyo no Baka.’ RMB150-180; Mar 14, 8.30pm-late; Mako livehouse “Our albums are pretty similar to climbing (see listings for details, www.yoopay.cn/event/ by Andrew Chin different mountains. Each has different BorisBeijing)

30 | MARCH 2015 | www.thatsmags.com books | arts

“It’s a great comfort that A Seafaring Man even though we’ve messed Horatio Clare Headlines the up much of the world, it’s Bookworm Literary Festival still a big beautiful place” by Andrew Chin

Horatio Clare writes about travel, that much While the ships, and the technology is true. But to describe him as a ‘travel driving them, feature in the book, Clare was writer’ would be something of an injustice. also concerned with more distinctly human Take 2009’s A Single Swallow, in which the struggles, such as the isolation of seafaring. Welsh author and journalist travels across “Even though you’re confined with other 14 countries over three months in a bid people, you’re properly isolated from the to mirror the migratory patterns of barn rest of the world,” he says. “Most seafarers swallows. Or his latest best-seller, Down don’t have access to the Internet and you to the Sea in Ships – of Ageless Oceans and have very little idea of what’s happening Modern Man, which sees Clare become a de at home. If you sink into thinking about facto writer-in-residence for the world’s your family, it can drive you crazy. The largest container shipping company, Maersk. job requires that you are optimistic at all “We felt pretty big when we went into times, as the atmosphere of a ship is really ports, but we were just a speck going up important.” the Pearl River Delta,” he explains, recalling The collective dynamic among the sailors the trip which took him from England’s provided additional food for thought, with east coast to Los Angeles, via China. “[Hong the writer observing a racial pyramid: Kong] is incredible from a seafaring Filipino, Chinese and Vietnamese laborers perspective. The approach is so dramatic at the bottom, Indian and Eastern European and it’s just a chaos of ships. It’s amazing officers in the middle, and captains coming there aren’t collisions but it’s really just from Denmark and the Netherlands. good seamanship. Along with Shanghai, “The Danes were going to Hooters for Hong Kongese crane operators are famous obvious reasons – although they claimed it as the quickest in the world.” was for the chicken – and the Filipinos went As well as using the vessel’s various to Walmart to buy cheap stuff they could stopping points for inspiration, the open send home,” Clare recalls of a shore-leave in sea often proved most profound. Traveling Long Beach, California. “We had just carried up the Taiwan Straits, he singles out that stuff [as cargo], so the historical irony the “monumental” Pacific Ocean for the is that, once upon a time, even the lowest perspective it provided. member of a whaling ship would have a “We think of the world as so small – here fraction in the share.” we are chatting from Yorkshire to Shanghai,” Currently working on a book about he says on a call from the UK. “But actually night-shift workers in the UK, Clare’s travel the world is vast. My captain said that no schedule is restricted by the commitments matter how much you tell people, they will of having a young family. But coming to the never understand how vast the oceans are. Bookworm Literary Festival also marks It’s a great comfort that even though we’ve something of a familial right-of-passage. In messed up much of the world, it’s still a big making his first trip to Shanghai (where he beautiful world.” will meet publishers after headlining the One trip proved insufficient. Following the festival in Beijing), Clare will be returning conclusion of his first voyage, Clare hopped to the city his grandfather migrated to aboard a second container ship headed following the persecution of the Jews. across the North Atlantic, from Antwerp to “I would love to see some of the family Montreal. history and I also want to hang out where “I’ve seen the top end of the business young Shanghai is,” he says. “In a way, if San operate beautifully, so I wanted to see the Francisco and New York have generated opposite side,” he explains. “I deliberately the culture of the Western world, Shanghai chose a really old ship on a really old route is busy generating the culture of the next Clare will appear on the panel at in really bad weather.” world.” the following talks and workshops: Unlike A Single Swallow, where his own > Meet the Authors, RMB80, adventures take center stage, the writer took > travels with swallows and ships; RMB60; Mar 20, 7pm; Mar 21, 2pm, the Bookworm pains to minimize his presence in Down to iQiYi, 1 sanlitun nanlu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南路1号 > Workshop Travel Writing, RMB260, the Sea in Ships: “I wanted to step back and (6500 8180) Mar 22, 12pm, the opposite House be the camera and microphone. I wanted > Focus on European Literature, to understand their [sailors’] lives without RMB80, Mar 22, 6pm, the Bookworm interfering.” (see listings for venue details)

www.thatsmags.com | MARCH 2015 | 31 Folio 线 ARTS | feature

says. “Many Chinese readers see it as a treatise on the importance of affordable housing, while people in the neighborhood see it as a love The Wonder letter to Beijing. They are especially happy to have had their lives recorded honestly in the Chinese translation.” of Wasteland His newest book applies the same analytical treatment to China’s Northeast. After a decade living in Beijing, he moved to his wife’s Bestselling Author and One-Time Beijing rural hometown of Dahuangdi (known locally as ‘Wasteland’) – outside of Jilin – and quickly became entranced. Resident Michael Meyer Discusses his “What surprised me most was the visibility of its history. Unlike New Book, In Manchuria greater China, most of the major events in the Northeast’s history happened in the past 400 years. Relics are still scattered across the by Andrew Chin land like playing pieces of a board game called Empire,” he says. “You can stand in wooden, Russian-built Chinese Eastern Railway “There’s no shortage of coffee shops and art galleries,” author Michael stations dating back to 1901, sleep in restored Yamato Hotels from Meyer remarks of his old stomping grounds in Dashilar. The area the time of the South Manchurian Railway, and walk freely through which provided the setting for author’s acclaimed debut The Last many battlefields of the Chinese civil war and the Sino-Japanese War.” Days of Old Beijing is now largely unrecognizable from the one he The title of Meyer’s newest book is immediately striking. In using lived in during the run-up to the Olympic Games, when great swathes the controversial term “Manchuria,” the author is quick to explain were demolished and communities relocated. its etymology, debunking the common notion that it derives from Published in 2008, Meyer’s eulogy to the city’s vanishing, tight- Manchuko – the name of the Japanese puppet state. knit hutong neighborhoods vaulted the former That’s Beijing writer “It’s a beautiful word, evoking a place unlike any other in the world. onto the international bestseller lists – everywhere, that was, apart It also describes a state of mind,” he explains, noting that he uses from China. For five years, the book remained largely unobtainable ‘Northeast’ throughout the book and that its Chinese title ‘Dongbei in Beijing, where its uncompromising account of forcible relocations Youji’ is a play on ‘Journey to the West.’ proved too controversial for authorities. The ban was eventually In Manchuria features anecdotes of Meyer’s visits to the region’s lifted last year – and the Chinese translation is now a bestseller too. relics, like the ruins of the Willow Palisade (the ‘lesser Great Wall,’ “I couldn’t be happier to see the book on Chinese shelves,” he erected during the Qing dynasty) and interviews with characters who

32 | MARCH 2015 | www.thatsmags.com “China has now spent more years dismantling a Marxist society than it did building one”

help bring the remote area to life, such as the American OSS Office the government – which, incidentally, they uniformly support – that who parachuted into a Shenyang POW camp in 1945 where survivors they’re now being told what to do by a private company,” he explains. of the Bataan Death March were being held by the Japanese. “The pro-con divide runs along the same line as those who are But contemporary issues are also captured in the book, in eager to move out of Beijing’s hutongs, and those who want to particular the changing reality of rural China, which has traditionally remain. It’s a generational split, with young Wastelanders showing been structured around two types of time: eternal (the seasons on little interest in farming. When I was a Peace Corps volunteer in rural the farm) and ephemeral (the man-made events set in the region). Sichuan in 1995, those kids would spend the weekends in the fields Meyer notes that “for all the tumultuous changes over the past 300 with their parents. Wasteland’s parents wanted their kids to enter years, Wasteland is still farming.” Yet despite its name, Wasteland is university and train for careers off the land.” also something of a modern day success story. In 2000, two village Noting that the town “looks nothing like a wasteland,” Meyer will partners planted organic, short-grain sticky rice commonly used in be showing slides of the village and more of the Northeast while sushi. By the third harvest, the rice – later dubbed ‘Eastern Fortune discussing the region’s past and future during his March 22 talk at Rice’ – was being served at official banquets, leading President Hu the Bookworm Literary Festival. Jintao to visit the village in 2007. “China has now spent more years dismantling a Marxist society The community’s farmers immediately benefited, with the private than it did building one. For the 12th year in a row, rural reform is the company Eastern Fortune buying the locals’ rice crops above market subject of this year’s No. 1 Central Document, prioritizing large-scale prices. Wasteland was transforming from a commune to a company managed farms,” he notes. town. “A few miles from Wasteland, a Singapore-backed ‘super farm’ But its growth is causing a dilemma. With more need for land, named Jilin Food Zone recently broke ground. It’s 500 square miles, the Eastern Fortune Rice company is offering walk-up apartments equal in area to Los Angeles.” in exchange for the land rights to farmer’s homes, which they can demolish to make way for paddies. It’s a remarkably similar story to the one that Meyer found in Beijing’s hutongs. “Eastern Fortune Rice is seen as a benevolent actor, but the pushback comes from farmers who had spent their entire lives > In Manchuria; RMB80; Mar 22, 12pm; the Bookworm enduring one campaign and one experiment after another. They > Changing China; RMB80; Mar 22, 4pm; the opposite House don’t like the notion that after 50 years of being told what to do by (see listings for venue details)

www.thatsmags.com | MARCH 2015 | 33 How do you define weird? It’s a ly predicted that, “in the future, it is But although some within the local question many people have been left unlikely that Beijing will have other government – including the city’s Deputy asking in light of President Xi Jinping’s strangely shaped buildings like the Mayor Chen Gang – have been quick to call, in mid-October of last year, for “an ‘Giant Trousers’” – the name commonly call for tighter planning regulations in end to weird architecture.” The comment used among locals to describe the China light of the rebuke, other voices have – delivered amid a wide-ranging two- Central Television (CCTV) headquarters, raised concerns that Mr. Xi’s statement hour speech in which Mr. Xi discussed the avant-garde monolith designed by might be misinterpreted in regards to how art should serve the people – was Rem Koolhaas and Ole Scheeren that innovation. offered with no further explanation. has become synonymous with the city’s Taken as a whole, architecture in Providing something of a pointer, Olympics-era penchant for bold state- Beijing is difficult to categorize. While state-owned People’s Daily confident- ment architecture. there are distinct period styles, the most enduring of which remains the Burnished in recent years by the in- We sat down with seven of the most city’s world famous Ming and Qing-era troduction of radical new architectural exciting contemporary architects cur- temples and palaces, the vast major- wonders, such as Pritzker-Prize win- rently plying their trade in Beijing, to ity of buildings draw on a mishmash of ner Zaha Hadid’s Galaxy SOHO and the discuss the future of the city’s urban contemporary influences that bear few National Center for the Performing Arts landscape, whether they agreed with Mr. culturally-definable markers. Beyond the (known locally as the Egg), this new city Xi’s comments, and to find out what one tourist sites and last remaining clusters has developed at speed. But after almost Beijing building they consider to be a of hutongs, the city’s built environment three decades of continuous – and, ac- ‘good’ example (weird, or otherwise) of – the practical, everyday Beijing where cording to critics, unchecked – construc- modern architecture – and why. tens of millions live and work – is a tion, is Beijing now facing up to an end relatively new construct. of an era? 36 / 37

“The problem with so-called openness, it has a neighborhood pattern. It’s ‘weird’ architecture is not the final been there for seven years and continues to product necessarily, but the un- remain on the cutting edge, because there are no

healthy drivers that lead to its con- meaningless time, disturbing. the current situation is very Most modern buildings in Beijing are O n one hand, there’s – there is potential here. a lot to improve But, at the same other buildings like it in Beijing – lots of people struction – all the greed, the envy have tried to copy it, but, from a design and pro- and the inferiority we find in China gramming point of view – it’s unique. If we talk today. Over the last 30 years, the about the future of commercial developments, speed of economic growth [within that’s the model the city should follow. We need China] has accelerated – and with to move away from this trend towards gated it, people’s desire for a better life. communities, which is becoming increasingly Hao Dong But this desire, if left unchecked prevalent in Beijing, and move towards more Crossboundaries – especially when combined with open, neighborhood driven concepts. Architects limited cultural concerns – can get Take Solana as a counter point. It was built out of control. Consequently, archi- around the same time as Sanlitun Village. Scale- tecture today very much reflects wise, it’s not too bad – but it didn't really kick society’s collective mindset and so- out, due mainly to planning and operational rea- ciety’s collective mindset is weird. sons; the real estate management is not there, Working in this environment is they haven’t grasped the idea of openness – of exciting, but it’s also very stress- creating a community space. It’s a very dead ful. On one hand, there’s a lot to space, especially during winter. Another example improve – there is potential here. of poor planning, might be any one of a num- But, at the same time, the cur- ber of SOHO buildings. Galaxy SOHO is a visual rent situation is very disturbing. complex – a fancy building – and nothing more. Most modern buildings in Beijing Consider for a moment how it integrates with are meaningless. Of course, there its surroundings – I’m not talking about cultural are notable exceptions. For exam- integration, but how it integrates socially. It is ple, Sanlitun Village and Parkview essentially a dead space. The developers don’t Green. Both of these buildings have really care about the building’s eventual usage, a consistent concept in which the once the units are sold, they move on to the next use of public space has been con- project. There’s no cohesion. sidered. Ultimately, I think the city has to develop a Designed by Kengo Kuma, smarter, more sustainable vision. Humans have Sanlitun Village [Taikoo Li] is an to give way to green space. We are moving to- impressive landmark building that wards a more intellectually integrated future – is open to the public both day and and so, naturally, architecture will help facilitate night. It’s busy, there is a sense of this reality. Most of our functional needs will be taken care of through the Internet; people will likely only meet person-to-person to fulfill their own emotional human needs. I hope by then, we have created enough natural space to enable us to live healthy, fulfilling lives.”

5 Born and raised in Beijing, Hao Dong is a founding partner of Crossboundaries and a member of the Beijing Institute of Architectural Design (BIAD). He holds a Bachelor’s degree in Architecture from the Beijing Institute of Civil Engineering and Architecture, and a Master’s degree in Architecture from Pratt Institute, New York. He is regular guest lecturer at the Central Academy of Fine Arts (CAFA).

Japanese architect Kengo Kuma based his design for Sanlitun Village on the dense multipurpose use of space common to Beijing's hutong neighborhoods. Sanlitun Taikooli The converted office space is one of the few places where the phrase ‘mad scientist’s lab’ might be considered less a cliche, and more a factually accurate description. Inside there are laser cutters Jingshan Park reMIX Studio Nicola Saladino this wouldbeJianwai SOHOby structure. within asimilarlycomplexsocial livingconditionscontemporary toaccommodatefuture ishow community; thechallengefor special senseof avery creates spacethatpublic andprivate unique systemofpublic, semi- recognizable element. itsstrongest,are perhaps most of thecity–whichhutongs more onthedeepurbanstructure should focuslessonstyle, and ‘genuine’ Beijingarchitecture Architects lookingtoemulate ofChinesearchitecture.heritage terms–thehistoricaltemporary –incon- cover andelaborate working withinChinatoredis- there isaneedforarchitects ally ispossible. positivechangere- I believethat solutions –andbecauseofthis, able toexperimentwithradical such acontext, architectsare among thecity’s inhabitants. In foradaptationincredible capacity olises. This, Ithink, the shows othermetrop- existsinmany that yet withouttheviolenttension “ Beijing isacityofcontrasts, One goodmodern exampleof aThey [thehutongs]have Conversely, Idobelievethat ( 38 /39 left ) as partofthepublic realm. and dignifyingtheparkingspace commercial activitiestoappear, ment, anewlayerof allowing bringlighttothebase- dens that aseriesofsunkengar creating splits thegroundintotwolevels, lively. plazadesignAn innovative the communalspacesarevery podium isconstantlyactiveand borhood, wherethecommercial a fullyfunctionalneigh- create cial andresidentialprograms pound anditsmix-usecommer special isitsurbanlayout. tional’ ones), makesit butwhat facades–the decorated ‘tradi- monumental scaleandhyper- – the ‘weird’ iconicones–oron geometriesterms ofextravagant ings seemtocompeteeitheron ment inacitywherenewbuild- think thisisactuallyanachieve- stand outfromitscontext(andI simple,is very would nothingthat Riken Yamamoto. Itsarchitecture The successofthe site’s com- The highdensityofthecom- - - directed tothebasement level, the leaving street-like publicspaces onthefirstfloor free forpedestrianuse. Pedestrianized walkways: alltrafficisre-

Photos courtesy of BEIJING MAKERSPACE Photos courtesy of BEIJING MAKERSPACE The highdensityofthecom- grams create afullyfunctional commercial podiumiscon- stantly activeandthecommu- nal spaces are very lively nal spacesare very neighbourhood, where the pound anditsmix-usepro- occupy thethreebottomfloors, whilethe upper levelsarecondominiums. Mixed useofspace: commercialfacilities the city’s ecologicalspine.” ric, thenewgreen systemcouldthenbecome than anornamentalelementoftheurbanfab- parks intoamorefunctionalnetwork. Rather to doso, transformingthescattered perhaps itwillcontinuegreen spacesandIhopethat distances. on adailybasiswithinreasonablewalking theyneed peopletofindtheservices allowing residentialcommunities,substitute thegated New multifunctionalblockswillhopefully friendly city, rediscoveringbicycles. perhaps vehiclesprivate andbecomeapedestrian- find awaytoabandonitsdependenceon look fiftyyearsfromnow. IhopeBeijingwill Beijingwill arealisticideaofhow to have change hasoccurred, Ithinkitisimpossible whichlast twentyyearsandthespeedat ous blindwalls. tractive –gener - – forsomereasoncommerciallymoreat communitiesofmega-blockswhere gated visitors, butitisquiteuniqueinBeijing, foreignseem anormalconditionformany theadjacentblocks.towards This might ing themaximumpermeabilityfromand total absenceofperimetralbarriers,- allow munal spaceispartlyachievedthroughthe Recently, thecityhasinvestedalotinnew theevolutionofcityin Looking at (Laboratory for Computational Design). forComputational (Laboratory BeijingLCDUniversity andatutorat London. Heisaguestlecturerat Tsinghua the program at Architectural inAssociation Urbanism oftheLandscape and apostgraduate University ofBarcelonaSchool Architecture, in Beijing. ofthePolytechnic Heisagraduate Nicola Saladino 5 ate streetscapes ofcontinu- streetscapes ate is a partner at reMIXStudiois apartnerat

40 / 41 Abraham’s not an ar- “I’ve always been a fan of For example, the CCTV building Beijing, but even weirder that you chitect I’d ever expect ‘weird’ buildings. Though I can also looks great on paper, though I never hear anything about it. to see in China, but understand Xi Jinping's statement. genuinely can’t tell whether it’s What I often find with large- one I have a lot of The problem with weird buildings an example of ‘good’ or ‘weird’ scale building projects in Beijing, is respect for. He’s only in China is that they’re often built architecture because, of course, I that despite attempts to integrate built two other build- for the wrong reasons. For me, can’t get near it – its totally fenced the project within its surroundings in his lifetime good design has to do with the pro- off from the public. By this meas- ing context, the building – either gramming of the building, its so- ure, an example of an architect because of the scale of its built cial relevance and its relationship that’s been able to achieve con- form or awkward urban integration with the site. You can spend all the sistently good results in Beijing is – ends up being a stand alone ob- money you want building something Kengo Kuma [designer of Sanlitun ject or island within itself. Instead iconic, but if the developers don’t Village and Parkview Green]. He’s of trying to integrate the JingYa properly understand the project – if accepted the right clients to work Ocean Entertainment Building with there is a failure in communication with, within a typology that’s easier its surroundings, Abraham took a – then what could, in theory, have to control. different view: the building couldn’t been a great building becomes in- For me, one of the more in- be integrated because there was stead something big and wasteful. triguing buildings in Beijing, is nothing to integrate with – Beijing Truthfully, I find it hard to cri- the JingYa Ocean Entertainment today has washed itself anew and tique architecture unless I’ve spent Building by Raimund Abraham. become a blank slate. And so he time in the finished building itself. Maybe not for the final product, created his own site, by turning but more so for the mystery and the volume of the building into a process behind its realization. This landscape, and creating new pa- one stands out due to the fact that rameters to work with. So for me, Abraham’s not an architect I’d ever this building is successful in the expect to see in China, but one I fact that it recognizes – and also have a lot of respect for. He’s only questions – the city’s rapid devel- built two other buildings in his opment.” lifetime – the Austrian Cultural Forum in New York and a museum on top of an old NATO missile base 5 in Germany – but those two build- Born and raised in New York, Edwin Lam has ings, along with his architectural been working in Beijing with Studio Pei-Zhu since 2010, his first job after graduating drawings, are sacred. He’s very from Pratt Institute School of Architecture. picky about who he works with, His recent work includes a new contemporary though when he’s given the right museum space that is nearing completion, situation he comes up with incred- within the site of a former Panasonic television factory to the north of 798 Art District and a ible architecture. Put simply, it’s a performing arts theater for choreographer/ weird choice for him to be here – in director Yang Liping in Dali, Yunnan.

Edwin Lam Studio Pei-Zhu 42 / 43

“Every period of Chinese history has even ‘weird.’ for me, though, is the roof – and the view it of- been accompanied by a certain degree of A good example perhaps, is the custom- fers of the entire neighborhood. change, some more dramatic than others. It’s built former home of Peking opera master, Yang Today, of course, that style which is loosely by no means a new phenomena. So, in terms of Xiaoluo. The two-storey house, which is located defined as ‘Republican Era,’ is the official lan- style, I don’t feel there is a need to preserve a midway along Yaowu Hutong, is roughly 100 guage of Dashilar and is preserved accordingly. particular language, or promote one style over years old and is unfortunately no longer in very Even Starbucks, should they decide to open another. good condition. However, if you look closely, you there, would have to adopt that same Republican Take Dashilar: the buildings there are heavily can still pick out decorative western features. Era style. influenced by foreign architectural ideas, some The structure meanwhile, maintains a more tra- Conservation is important, for a number of of which – in the context of the period – would ditional Chinese form – and is centered around a reasons, but it’s not something you should do ar- have been considered quite radical, possibly large open courtyard. The most striking element tificially, or at the expense of innovation. Stifling

The buildings are heavily influenced by foreign architectural ideas, some of which – in the context of the period – would have been considered quite radical, possibly even weird

Dashilar creativity is dangerous, we need to Returning again to Dashilar, one 5 continue to push the boundaries of of the reasons I really like that James Shen was born and raised in Los Angeles, USA. He studied at the Bartlett School James Shen Dashilar culture. neighborhood, is that it represents of Architecture at University College, London People’s I think we need to focus less a mixture – a mixture of architec- in 2000, he received a Bachelor’s in Product on form and more on scale and tural influences, a mixture of social Design from California State University, Long Architecture Beach in 2001, and a Master’s in Architecture Office structure, specifically the ability of classes and a mixture of different from MIT in 2007. James co-founded People’s architecture to help foster social types of people. It’s an ideal and Architecture Office and People’s Industrial connections. A building should help one that I think we should aspire Design Office in 2010. PAO’s projects include the headquarters for 21 Cake in Beijing, the support the vitality of a particular to, irrespective of form.” River Heights Pavilion in Taiyuan and the neighborhood, especially in older, Courtyard House Plugin in Dashilar, Beijing. more established parts of the city.

The decorative wood panel facade, an original feature, is illustrative of the more western influenced- aesthetic typical of Dashilar. WAI Thinktank Cruz Garcia ( left ) 44 /45 can be interpreted in many ways,can beinterpretedinmany in apublicforum. This, ofcourse, the issueofarchitectureandart Xi Jinping chose to addressthat aspect of thisis the debate fact “I thinkemosremarkable ture in the spotlight – everybody however, isputpublicarchitec- itdoesunquestionably,What change inworkingpractices. a whole, orwhetheritwillforcea as ontheindistry speech willhave typeof impactthehard tosaywhat depending on your perspective. It’s and contributetothistransforma- we areabletobothexperience design perspective. As architects, ing andchallengingplacefroma interest- and thismakesitavery – inChinarightnow is happening quality.overly genericandoflow it’snot that tooweird, it’s butthat problem withBeijingarchitectureis Personally, the main I’d argue that ing problems?Shouldwestopit? is weird architecture? Is it caus- is talkingabout it suddenly: What Unlike inthe West, modernity tion. Where elsecouldsomewhere world, buildings butaswithmany the mostbeautifulstadiumsin esting, themostchallengingand Xinggang] isamongthemostinter Design &ResearchGroup, ledbyLi Weiwei, andtheChina Architectural chitect StefanMarbach, artist Ai and PierredeMeuron, projectar among architectsJacquesHerzog from Beijing? beenbuilt,Stadium] have apart like the Bird’s Nest [the National The Bird’s Nest[a joint project - -

Photos courtesy of BEIJING MAKERSPACE Photos courtesy of BEIJING MAKERSPACE environment. positive contributiontothebuilt of thepower building provides a ing stadium, whilethesheervisual whichisrareforasport- intimate the same time the scale is very the contextofasportingevent. At quite revolutionary, especially in wasessentiallyopen– – that able, peoplecouldseethrough that wasmoreperme- this buildingthat ally beenrealized. in Beijing, itspotentialhasnotre- I thinktheoriginalideaofhaving Worse still, it’s badlymaintained paytowalkaround.out oftown visitorsfrom that ist attraction events –it’s just adormant tour the publicandrarelyusedfor around, isjustblock everywhere for publicspaceinthiscity. Look big shame, asthereisarealneed but failing somehow – which is a somethingforthepublicto create architects in Beijing settingout There arecountlessexamplesof and inpooroverallcondition. But today, it is fenced off from - The Bird’s Nestisamong themostinteresting, themostchalleng - ing andthemost beautifulstadiumsintheworld, butas withmany buildings inBeijing, itspotential hasnotreallybeenrealized

and meetoneanother.” spaceswherepeoplecangocreate minimum–shouldaimtothe very lic spaces. Goodarchitecture–at lots there aresofewgenuinepub- togetherinparkingare gathering after block after block – people The Bird’s Nest Bird’s The 5 Cruz Garcia independent art gallery inBeixinqiao. independent artgallery of theBeijingIntelligentsiaGallery, asmall Architecture, 2013). Heisalsotheco-founder in Architecture(London: Artifice Bookson Hardcore Icons: A ManifestoonPureForm architectural practiceandco-authorofPure WAI ArchitectureThinkTank,Beijing-baseda architectural theorist. Heistheco-founderof is aPuertoRicanarchitectand

46 / 47

Yosuke Hayano MAD

Parkview Green’s innovative use of environmental technologies has resulted in an es- timated 50 percent reduction in energy usage compared to similarly- sized buildings. The building’s ETFE (ethyl- ene tetrafluoroethylene, a fluorine based plastic film) roof and trans- parent glass wall and steel frame structure combine to form an independent micro climate, ensuring that it remains naturally cool in summer and warm in winter. “There is no such thing as weird architecture, every architect has a reason will see the physical 5 for their design, there is no way to define what is weird or what is good. results of what it is Born in Aichi, Japan, Yosuke Hayano is a principal partner at MAD, where he oversees I have been practicing in Beijing for almost ten years and in that time I have seen we are talking about and supervises all design work – including the a lot of changes. But we can not build a new Beijing, or a new Shanghai, in the way – if the buildings of company’s newest project, The George Lucas that we can build a new Ordos [a large, newly constructed city in Inner Mongolia] for today are not a suit- Museum of Narrative Art in Chicago. Yosuke received his Bachelor’s of Materials Engineering example, because this is an ancient city – with a long, long history of human activity able fit for our current from Waseda University in Tokyo in 2000, and culture – and that makes it different when talking about architecture, because situation, they will Associate degree in Architecture at Waseda there are many other factors to consider. not survive. Art and Architecture School in 2001, and his In the very beginning, the people who built Beijing had a reason for choosing to live That’s why I think Master’s in Architecture at the Architectural Association of London in 2003. He was the here – maybe it was safer, or more comfortable or more beautiful – and that reason, it’s time to stop for winner of the 2006 Architecture League of whatever it may have been, influenced their architecture. The design and shape of an- a moment and think New York Young Architects Award, 2011 Design cient buildings are not without reason. The beauty of these buildings comes from their about the past – as for Asia award and 2011 Kumamoto Artpolis Award. He was a visiting lecturer at Waseda history – and this informs our value system. But in recent decades that value system well as the future. Art and Architecture School from 2008 till has changed, in line with economic changes. This has led to a debate. Currently, Beijing 2012 and at Tokyo University from 2010 till Architecture is a big part of a city – a new building will be shared with everyone – it has a juxtaposition of 2012. is public, not private. After 100 years, no one will remember this conversation, but they scales – huge urban buildings alongside very small human buildings – such as the hutongs. I’ve never seen this in Japan or in the West, where typically cities will have a variety of middle spaces – such as plazas – designed to connect these two different scales. This juxtaposition is very challenging. Parkview Green [Fang Cao Di] by Kengo Kuma, is a good example of how we might respond to this challenge. The building is not concerned with form – its shape comes purely from its sustainable design, which is intended to minimize the impact of its shadow on the nearby buildings – the ultimate point is to create a really pleasant environmental space inside. I go in there quite often, people really enjoy the interior space – it’s like a cityscape – it’s not like an inside of a building; there are plazas, there are shops; there are different things on different interconnecting levels – and that’s what makes it really interesting. It’s a city-within-a-city kind of experience. Beijing is a very noisy city, the materials used in most buildings tend to create very hard surfaces. The city suffers from really bad acoustics. So architects must ask, how can I create a calm human space? This is the opposite approach to what is happening in Gulou, where areas are being demolished and replaced with fake hutongs like we see in Qianmen. I don’t like seeing fake hutongs – this attempt to create new value by copying and pasting. Instead, we should seek to take a contemporary approach to the human scale of hutong life – bring new values and new technology – and create a new future. Creating fake hutongs is easy, but they won’t last longer than five years. It’s a very short-sighted perspective. We have to think in terms of centuries – 100 years from now how will this stand up – and then decide what to build.”

After 100 years, no one will remember this conversation, but they will see the physical results of what it is we are talking about – if the buildings of today are not a suitable fit for our current situation, theyJingshan will not survive Park Make Studio Bill W ebb 48 /49

Photos courtesy of BEIJING MAKERSPACE Photos courtesy of BEIJING MAKERSPACE sort ofspaceandservices? ments –whileprovidingtheright cities –theiruniqueculturalele- theessenceofthesedo wecapture The question therefore, is how or insurance. certain sectors, be it financial, law arerequiredtoservepologies that therearecertainbuildingty- that facing allmajorChinesecities, in challengessents one of the great in that, butIthinkitalsorepre- fessionally, alotofinterest Ihave structures,contemporary and pro- consists almostentirelyofmodern China. I work in the CBD, which onamacrolevelacrosshappening of what’sperspective – illustrative “ from adesignandarchitectural As thecapital, Beijingis – tecture that incorporates avari- incorporates tecture that extremely loose-fitstyleofarchi- Beijing has benefited from an tension. Traditionally, ofcourse, ways abyproductofthisongoing ambition andingenuity: themoun- Park. It’s testamenttothecity’s isJingshanA personalfavorite specifically, sharedcivicspace. to traditional Chinese design – Beijing, Idofindmyselfdrawn ments allside-by-side. cafes, offices,- shopsandapart tion: homes, there are courtyard the Lama Temple toseethisinac- through thehutongs surrounding economic. You towalk onlyhave ety ofactivities, beitdomesticor ‘Weird architecture’isinmany Probably because I’m not from signers –needtobe moreambi- I thinkwe–asarchitectsandde- centerofBeijing.very Forbidden the City–whilestoodat overtheible view[picturedbelow] the top, thistrulyincred- youhave meditative, andwhenyouarriveat ion isexceptionallypeacefuland large. The route up to the pavil really isamicrocosmofBeijingat painting, familiesondays-out–it singing, taichiclasses, children it’s alivewithactivity–oldpeople go thereonaSundaymorning, tastic use ofpublicspace. Ifyou the ImperialPalace. It’s alsoafan- fromthecanalsofearth irrigated entirely man-made, builtusing is the sitstain pavilion atop that Borrowing that asanexample, that Borrowing - services internationally.services and Skills)topromotetheUK’s professional BIS (theDepartmentofBusiness, Innovation liaising withtheBritishGovernmentthrough GroupasaMakerepresentative,Services member oftheProfessionalandBusiness Ocean LandandSwireProperties. Billisa Commercial ComplexdevelopmentbySino- of thelarge-scaleDaci Temple Culturaland Chengdu, formspart aboutiquehotelthat overseeing thedesignof The Temple House, Architects’ BeijingStudio. Heiscurrently Bill Webb 5 rely onidentikitsolutions.” ences cultural signposts, and not refer traditional civicspacethat analysis ofthefuture– and create analysis ofthepastwellasforward We onretrospective oughttodraw wesetouttoachieve.tious in what is the General Manager ofMake istheGeneralManager Jingshan Park - grapevine

open page副标题底线

nibbles off the beaten plate Oh, the perils of choosing a An expired beef scandal made name for yourself in a foreign 2014 a year to forget for language. How many teachers McDonalds. So the fast food have you met in Beijing who giant celebrated the arrival of love to regale you with their 2015 with the release of the students’ semi-ludicrous niannian you fu bu or All Year English names? Conversely, how Happiness Burger (RMB21). many foreigners do you know in Two rather insipid pork Beijing who have been brave/ patties and a red disc of sausage, informed enough to choose a which tastes faintly of ashtray, Chinese name that isn’t just an are cemented together by a unimaginative translation from yellowish substance that could the original? be sauce, could be cheese, or Such concerns probably could indeed be the congealed didn’t enter the collective brains tears of Ronald himself. Still, we behind new Sanlitun SOHO have to admit that since trying joint, Satan’s Hotdog (pictured one earlier this month, we’ve below). Antichrist-themed fast barely experienced any sad or food: we dig it. unhappy emotions. Other Top Club, a bar-with- > available at mcdonalds stores dancefloor-and-confusing- citywide for a limited time only

literal-name, has opened in noemi cassanelli by photo the old White Rabbit space in Sanlitun’s Tongli studios. Head-to-Head / GREEN TEA ICE-CREAM Nearby, Apothecary, the Nali Patio cocktail lounge with drinks as chic as its name, and Yue Fu jazz bar have both closed – as owner Leon Lee reportedly prepares to leave China. His other venture, Jane’s and Hooch, VER sus survives, but it now has two new neighbors: De Refter (see p58) and Chinese dining Restaurant Rouge. (French name > English name.) Modernista, something of Häagen-Dazs Baxi 哈根达斯八喜 a genuine apothecary with its Available at WuMart, RMB33 for 81g Available at most supermarkets, RMB7.9 for 90g absinthe and hutong folk-gypsy clientele, has been ‘closed for First impressions renovations’ for a while now, Should green tea ice-cream be that bright? It’s a The Baxi is paler, a hospital waiting room green. though our sources tell us lurid green, like a kale smoothie – with ten times And that boring white tub needs a drastic it’s set to reopen this month. as many calories, probably. makeover. Eschewing all fancy naming is Consistency no-nonsense Chuan Tang, off Good softness straight out of the deep freeze – It’s frozen solid, forcing you to chisel off your ice- Xingfucun. Chuan’r (串) means our spoon glides through effortlessly. cream in unsatisfyingly small shavings. Pre-heat ‘skewers’ and tang (堂) means that scoop, yo. ‘room’: we’ll let you work out the deal with that one. WP Taste We suspect both green tea powder and sugar More subtle than the Häagen-Dazs, less sweet so have been more liberally added to the Häagen- we could eat considerably more of it. If drinking Dazs. It’s a stronger hit of green tea, but might be green tea is meant to aid heat flowing from the too sweet for purists. body, this will surely work.

Verdict We’d round off a meal with the Häagen-Dazs, but probably just a thimble’s worth given the price. The smoother and milder Baxi we could binge on all day. WP

50 | march 2015 | www.thatsmags.com [email protected]

They Said It, We Read It bartisans the den To celebrate Women’s Day on March 8, Slow Boat Brewery’s Becky Lane tells us about their efforts to Ever wondered what the kids these days think of some of Beijing’s longstanding eat- promote a women’s beer culture in China. and-drink establishments? To give you an idea, we’ve handpicked and translated some comments from popular ratings site dianping.com. This month: decade-old sports bar The Den.

“The service was really lacking. Had to call for ages before they came, and they didn’t know if coffee was included in the business lunch menu!”

“Why is it that all western food tastes the same? And there’s nothing good to say about service in this country. That’s basically it “I ordered six at The Den: it conforms to cocktails and none of the norms of society.” them had any flavor. It was basically six glasses of water.” “It’s my favorite bar. There’s a lot of choice [on the menu], which is very traditional… the The Cause. “At Slow Boat, we hope to create an fries are really delicious. The toilets, however, really are environment where women can step away from pitifully small.” beer’s unfortunate stereotype as ‘a man’s drink.’ Little “I trust all the foreigners living in marketing effort has been made to develop a ‘beer Beijing who go to ‘The Dan.’ [sic] … Give me one good reason not to go culture’ that includes women as anything other than there.” background eye-candy. No wonder women feel alienated – many therefore evaluate (and reject) the popular mass-produced beer simply on flavor, through lack of GOINGS-ON culture to identify with. At Slow Boat, as with all the microbreweries popping up in China, we’re making beer that is diverse in flavor and style, and can be evaluated on its own merits. East vs. West. “First-time Chinese customers tend to prefer darker beers, such as stouts or porters, over the hoppier beers, which are popular in North America. They’d perceive these beers as ‘sweeter’ because of the heavy malt notes and rich mouthfeel. When I first started bartending, I’d be taking orders from waifish young Chinese ladies who wanted to try their first craft beer: a heavy bodied, 7-9 percent alcohol brew. I’d be thinking: You go girl. You do you. The Drink. “For the darker-beer-leaning ladies, the Vanilla Stout is always popular, but since we’re moving into warmer weather I’d recommend our Monkey’s Fist Eat Cookies, Support Charity IPA. It is an IPA and therefore bitter, but it might suit When it comes to Beijing amateur cooking competitions, this one really takes many first time drinkers who tend to ask for a ‘light the biscuit: blogger Kristen Lum aka LumDimSum is teaming up with The beer’: strong passion fruit and mango aroma, fruity Citra Hutong to host the second annual Cookie Monster Charity Bake-Off. The finalists hops, and sweetness from five different kinds of malt. have been chosen for the March 14 judging ceremony, at which you can try each The Event. “This year’s International Women’s Day baked creation for yourself. Last year, 17 cookie contestants battled it out for will mark the beginning of an ongoing collaboration best in town; winner Jon Ellis even went on to start his own company, Big Bear between Slow Boat and women brewers in China. We’ve Baked Goods. RMB7,560 was raised for education charity, BEAM, while this year invited three of Beijing’s brightest female brewers, Zhao proceeds go towards the Bethel Foundation, giving financial support to projects Yan, Wang Chenxi and He Xiaoxiao, to sell their beer helping special needs children. The Hutong’s team are on hand to provide the in our taproom. All profits go to the Starfish Project, customary warm milk for dunking – hot chocolate, chai tea, mulled wine and a China-based charitable organizations that provides hot toddys also available. employment support and skills training for women.” > rmb150 (rmb100 for members and kids); 2-5pm sat march 14; the hutong, 1 Jiu dao wan Zhong Xiang, > slow boat women’s day tap takeover and fundraiser, sunday march dongcheng 东城区九道弯中巷1号 8; slow boat taproom (see listings for details)

www.thatsmags.com | march 2015 | 51 eat & drink | restaurants

open page副标题底线 photo by noemi cassanelli by photo BOTTEGA Rolling in the Dough

by Will Philipps

“The calzone is one of the best pairings of dough and cheese we’ve tasted in Beijing”

You’re opening a new restaurant in Beijing. Competition is tough, bread-crumbed risotto balls filled with Price breaking even ain’t easy. You need to stand out – hire the most cream spinach, RMB38) and a range of RMB150-200 per person talented chefs, prepare dishes you can’t find anywhere else, resemble salads and pastas. If you don’t like variations Who’s Going a palace… whatever is required to achieve that elusive x-factor. on the theme of tomato and cheese, options Big groups of pizza/ Only, that doesn't always seem to be case (look no further than are limited at Bottega, but the raviolis pasta lovers the premature death of extravagant Parnas). Diners in Beijing, we (vegetarian pesto, RMB78 and spinach and Good For feel, want something… simpler. Something like Bottega. That’s not ricotta, RMB88) are your best bet. World-renowned to detract from this Italian restaurant’s pedigree: manager Daniele The stylish interior of black, white and pizza, world-renowned Salvo is a Beijing transplant of the famous Neapolitan family, the red is more modern Milan than provincial tomatoes Salvos, word of whose pizzas has traveled globally since 1928. Their Naples, and not without its identikit oven has traveled too – they’ve imported one of those wood-fired moments. Oh, look: there’s an oversized and over-styled black-and- Mediterranean igloos now demanded of any pizza claiming to be a white photo of a man with a handful of cheese and a face full of beard, true slice of Italy. illuminated by the obligatory filament bulbs. The ingredients have also journeyed far. Take the piennolo It’s warm and not too formal, looking almost like it should be a tomatoes sat atop the bufalina pizza (RMB118). They were grown at chain restaurant. It isn’t (yet) and this is not necessarily to be taken the foot of Mount Vesuvius where a mixture of blazing sunlight and as a slight – chain restaurants become chains because they are volcanic ash soil makes them among the world’s sweetest. Given that accessible and popular. Bottega, which is buzzing on our Wednesday they have traveled all the way from Italy to sit on our pizza in Beijing, night visit, is giving off that vibe already. these cherry tomatoes have quite the carbon footprint (in more ways We’re impressed. The only drawback is its location, hidden down than one). an alley in Sanlitun rather than in a glass box suspended over Taikoo But we’re happy they’ve made the journey; alongside the buffalo Li, visible to the millions of window shoppers passing through daily. mozzarella they create a delicious turbocharged margherita, with so If Bottega can survive, in spite of this, then the fratelli Salvo will have much molten cheese you could almost bathe in it. There’s a regular added a very worthwhile smart-casual dining option to their family margherita too (RMB60), and a few other classic pizzas, among which portfolio, and to Beijing. the double-layered calzone di salame (RMB88) is one of the best pairings of dough and cheese we’ve tasted in Beijing. daily 6pm-midnight; 18 sanlitun lu (next to alameda), chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路18 Aside from pizza, the menu offers antipasti (we like the arancini, 号 (6416 1752)

52 | march 2015 | www.thatsmags.com serbia burger !

by Will Philipps “СрбијаIt’s hard notбургер! to be amused by such eccentric cultural path-crossings as Serbia Burger”

unwittingly – out-hipstered all the hipster Price start-ups in Gulou. “I could really go for a RMB28-55 for a burger Serbian burger right now,” is a phrase that Who’s Going has probably been said by nobody in Beijing, Serbian diplomats, ever. Ergo: it’d be f*cking cool to open a hungry hutong hipsters Serbian burger restaurant. It’s what the Good For hutongs were made for, right? Burgers. From Serbia. But how exactly does such a place come into existence? (In these parts Serbia is less famous for its cuisine, more as ground zero for major diplomatic incidents with the US.) It was opened by Mr Liang, a native of Beijing, who spent almost a decade living in Novi Sad, the Balkan state’s second city. He ate lots of Serbian burgers there because they reminded him of roujiamo, China’s contribution to the pantheon of breaded meat snacks. Details are not forthcoming as to exactly why he was there – all we need to know is that he’s back in China, and he’s brought his favorite snack with him. Liang is – by his own admission – just a regular Beijing guy, albeit a Serbian-speaking one with a highly eccentric business. Inside, there are Serbian national flags and photos of picturesque medieval fortresses overlooking the Danube. Liang has opted for a trendy open kitchen, although the place is so small (there’s only seats for four) that it’s really a choice between open kitchen or no kitchen. But seating is not a problem, because these burgers are great on the go. There are six options (RMB28-55) – every possible configuration of the following: cheese/no cheese, “single/double meat” (patty), and pitta/classic bap. Burger sauce and pickle garnish as standard. Fries (RMB10) are the only side option available. The Serbs, it would appear, prefer a burger with minimal embellishments. We opt for double meat, pitta, no cheese, and begin to deconstruct In December 2014, Chinese premier Li Keqiang made an official visit the Serbian burger. It’s essentially one of the high-end, booze-soaking to Serbia. He attended the third annual China-Central and Eastern varieties, possibly kebab-inspired. The bread is thick and efficiently European Summit; opened the Chinese-built and -funded Pupin sandwiches, while the beef is tasty and firm, if a little thin (double Bridge, which spans the Danube; and held talks with his Serbian meat option recommended). A pleasant amount of juice comes counterpart about Chinese involvement in high-speed rail links oozing out and the garnish is fresh and crisp. If we’d just consumed between Belgrade and Budapest, in neighboring Hungary. a few liters of beer and this fell on to our laps, we would devour it Then, in January of this year, a hole-in-the-wall Balkan burger joint, ferociously and be utterly satisfied. One small issue, though: we fail Serbia Burger, opened in a Beijing back alley. Relations between the to see anything characteristically Serbian about it. But then again, two countries have never been rosier. what exactly is so Chinese about roasting a duck? Beijing, the Serbian It’s hard not to be amused by such eccentric cultural path-crossings burger craze has arrived. as Serbia Burger. We love Beijing because it has madcap places like this. But what we love most about this place is that it has – probably daily 3-9pm, 107 baochao hutong, dongcheng 东城区宝钞胡同107号 (4013 0588)

www.thatsmags.com | march 2015 | 53 eat & drink | Feature

Pizza by Will Philipps Pilgrims Crafting the Perfect Pizza for Great Leap

54 | march 2015 | www.thatsmags.com Daniel (left) and Kin (right) outside the new great leap brewpub

If you drink beer and friends. “So next thing I know live in Beijing, we’re willing we’re in the Pizza Brain to bet you’ve tried a pint of kitchen learning the art of Great Leap. If you don’t drink making dough. Most people beer and live in Beijing, we’re think with pizza dough you willing to bet you’ve at least just throw the flour together, been to one of their two bars, but you need to have proper and perhaps been glared at waiting times in between for ordering a soda. mixing stages. It’s a process The point is: since opening that’s like making bread in a in 2010, many Great Leap bakery.” So did he need much pints have been drunk and a persuading to travel with

great many words have been noemi cassanelli by photo them back to Beijing? “I kind printed about them (not least of mentioned going to China in these pages). The brand’s evolution from hutong homebrew hobby as a joke, but Kin was like: yep, let’s do this!” to Beijing drinking institution is the fairytale food and drink success Back in China, work began on the perfect pie to complement the story. So as a third location on Xinyuan Jie opens, what more is there brewery’s liquid selection. Kin breaks it down: “It needed to be to say? Well, they’ve just started making pizzas. Crisp, fresh, topping- crunchy, salty, fatty: all of the things that make us love to drink and all laden and – we can safely say after tasting – downright triumphant the things we love to eat when we are drunk. In terms of the toppings ones. And luckily for these pages, there’s a story to tell. we really wanted to stick with the approach of Great Leap #12. I “We wanted to do something new for the menu at the third bar and don’t want fusion just for the sake of having fusion. We use local Carl [Setzer, Great Leap co-founder] and I decided on pizza,” reveals ingredients to mimic the flavors of America. We’ve got the classics: Kin Hong, the man in charge of Great Leap’s menus and the brains pepperoni, cheese, sausage, peppers. Then the ‘new age America’: behind the Taco Bar. “The most important thing about food at Great the veggie one has kale and zucchini, there’s chicken and pesto, and Leap is that it pairs with the beer – it never outshines it, so to speak. I mushroom and ricotta.” love [Chicago-style] pan pizza, which is cooked in butter and cheese, So is it ‘craft pizza’? As is the case with Great Leap’s beer, Kin tells but when we experimented it didn’t work with the beer. We made us, it’s a balance between the art and the science of making a great the call that we would need to go to the states and find real New York product. Gutter persuaded Kin to get a deck oven, for example, which pizza – which you can’t get in Beijing – with that crispy dough. That uses heat from two inches of slate stone when cooking. It’s a huge cracker-like crunch makes me want to drink the beer.” piece of apparatus and the first of its kind to be imported to China. Kin and Carl set off stateside but never actually made it to New “Then they literally are hand-crafted,” Kin follows up. “No two York. The quest to find their dream pizza ended at the very first pizzas will ever be the same, because of the way it’s stretched, the restaurant they visited, Pizza Brain. Located in Philadelphia, it houses humidity and the temperature. It’s the perfect pairing to the amount a small pizza museum and holds the Guinness World Record for of work needed for the beer, in terms of time, technique and attention owning the most pizza-related memorabilia. Kin explains: “When to detail – as well as with the actual beer itself. It doesn’t leave you we sat down we were like, wow: this place is crazy, it’s mad hipster with a stomach full of dough so you can have a few slices and leave – everyone’s high. I took one bite of their pizza and said: ‘This is it, room for beers.” we found it. The cheese, the base…’ it was exactly what I was looking So was the voyage worth it? Go judge for yourself. Our verdict – for.” Luckily for them, Pizza Brain’s owner backed their cause. He even as self-professed Italian pizza snobs – Great Leap’s are definitely introduced them to his craft-beer-loving chef, Daniel Gutter, who up there with the best in Beijing. offered to share the techniques needed for the ultimate crust. “Kin and I hit it off right away,” says Gutter – as he is known to tue-sun, 11.30am-11.30pm; 45 Xinyuan Jie, chaoyang 朝阳区新源街45号 (5947 6984)

www.thatsmags.com | march 2015 | 55 eat & drink | BARSFeature

open page副标题底线

Like all great Beijing food concepts, Rager Pie started out small and expanded quick. Since launching its home-delivery-service in the rage r fall of last year, it has proved a massive hit, serving up over 100 fresh pies per week. Its newly-opened hutong bakery is the company’s first bricks- and-mortar establishment. pie We stopped by to taste test Five of the Best five of Rager’s most popular – and see what all the buzz is words by Stephen George and Will Philipps about. images by Noemi Cassanelli

Pecandrogynous SG: It’s so packed full of protein-rich pecans and walnuts, it could almost be considered healthy. Chunky Punkin’ WP: I think the key word there is almost – this pie is quite sweet and the pastry is pure buttery SG: WP: I don't think I’ve goodness. SG: The androgyny angle might ever eaten a pumpkin pie that tastes so much confuse a few people. WP: Likely to be a big like Wefresh have pumpkin a winner! – this is the gold standard hit with David Bowie fans, though. SG: I could of pumpkin pie. SG: This is definitely not from a definitely see Ziggy Stardust eating a slice of can. WP: It tastes like what I imagine the pilgrims Pecandrogynous with his morning coffee. sat down to eat during the first Thanksgiving. > rmb35/70/140 for a 4/6/9-inch pie > rmb25/60/125

56 | march 2015 | www.thatsmags.com feature | eat & drink

Chicken is a Color WP: A savory pie… interesting texture, very dense. Not what I was expecting at all, but very good nonetheless. SG: Yep. Very filling. Has a wholesome, genuine taste. WP: This is a family pie – to be shared and bonded over. Harmonious mealtimes at the Philipps household were built around pies like this. > rmb35/70/140

pie Lamburger Pie WP: The name makes me weary. SG: Yeah, the idea of a burger-in-a-pie is off-putting. WP: [takes a bite] Is it a Shepherd’s Pie? SG: It’s certainly very close, though perhaps not enough gravy to be considered a true Shepherd’s. WP: Traditionalists probably wouldn’t approve. SG: True, could definitely benefit from more gravy, perhaps more veggies too, but the potato topping has that classic pillow-y texture with a crispy top. WP: Agreed. I’d say it’s the best Shepherd’s Pie on the market in Beijing right now. > rmb40/75/150

NTKo Coconut Cream SG: OK, so I have a confession to make. I tried this once before, and I didn’t like it. But Wilson [Rager Pie owner] has told me they’ve since changed the recipe. WP: I don’t know what the previous one tasted like, but this is good. I think it could even be a favorite. SG: Yep, this is much better. WP: It’s classic American diner-style dessert. SG: It’s the American dream, in pie form, as sold in China. > rmb30/65/130

www.thatsmags.com | march 2015 | 57 eat & drink | restaurants open page副标题底线 mr shi's noodles Shi’s City – We’re Eating in It

by Will Philipps

Price Beijing’s answer noemi cassanelli by photo RMB18-22 for a bowl of to Kentucky’s noodles Colonel Sanders, Who’s Going Mr. Shi is expanding DE refter Backpackers, fresh off his collection of the boat newbs backpacker- and Late-Night Brews Good For laowai-friendly Chinese noodles 101 Chinese dining by Stephen George restaurants, with a foray into the world of hand-pulled noodles. His new noodle shack has replaced his Somewhere in Shanghai, somebody is telling It’s a neat trick: here we have a place that previous venture, Mr. Shi’s Spot, which, as a a joke about how even the cocktail bars in is resolutely a pub – sells over 100 obscure bar selling imported European beer, didn’t Beijing sell beer – and not cocktails. Get it? quality Belgian brews, including eight on really suit his trademark friendly-laobeijing People in Beijing are unsophisticated and tap – yet looks and feels like the type of up- brand. But can his noodles command the parochial, because they like to drink beer. It’s market destination you might take your same loyal following as the jiaozi? funny, of course, because it’s true. At least significant other to for a romantic date, or, With so many backpacker-bar hallmarks in part (the part about the cocktail bar, but better still, meet someone while there who in his two Baochao Hutong digs, it would we’ll come to that later). you might like to date. be easy to assume that locals steer well Beer and Beijing: the two go together Sure, the excessive variety of beer on clear – especially with wily old Shi’s inflated like strawberries and cream, or overinflated offer feels gimmicky, probably because it prices. But most times we visit – especially rates of economic growth and is, but there’s no denying the guys at his newer and larger Cheniandian Hutong hazardous air quality (or Shanghai Price behind the concept have done branch – the dumplings seem pretty popular and dreary expat bankers, for that RMB45-200/person their homework – and know their with the local market. matter). Not a week seems to pass Who’s Going market. The rich wooden interior – But Shi, immortalized in smiling cartoon without a new locally brewed/ Beer aficionados, arguably the bar’s most impressive form outside his restaurants, may have a crafted/imported beer bar opening Belgians, cocktail element – is a significant departure harder time convincing seasoned Beijingers in this city. Why is that, exactly? refugees from the type of industrial look with the noodle offerings. You’ve got a What’s driving the growth? Good For first popularized by Great Leap and choice of six classic takes on the hand-pulled (Alcoholism?) And how long before Tinder dates Jing-A and now seen throughout wheat staple. We’d recommend the Shaanxi the bubble bursts and the market the city with varying degrees of youpo noodles (RMB18), which are oily, shifts towards the next new trend? success. It’s both cozy and sleek. Prices, garlicky as hell and possessing a satisfying Such questions appear of little concern to meanwhile, range from the somewhat lick of spice. The zhajiangmian (RMB18), the owners of De Refter – Beijing’s newest excessive, St Feuillien Blonde (RMB70), to a straight-up laobeijing of a noodle dish, is concept beer bar – and based on what we the reasonable, St Louis Premium Kriek good, but has little to elevate it above nearby encountered during its soft opening period, (RMB45). competition. The same is largely true for the why should they? Pitching itself as a sort All considered, it’s a welcome new remaining items: eggplant and pork noodle of Jane’s & Hooch for the craft beer crowd, addition to Beijing’s nightlife scene – soup (RMB18), beef noodle (RMB22), egg this new Belgian-centric establishment is and one we imagine that will squeeze and tomato noodle (RMB20), and noodles conveniently located – surprise, surprise – comfortably into the post 12am drinking slot in a clear broth (RMB18). The noodles next door to Jane’s & Hooch. But whereas (when nearby Jing-A kicks out) currently themselves are pretty robust, but we did find Beijing’s Premier Cocktail Destination™ is, occupied by the city’s aforementioned a large bit of plastic, possibly splintered off to quote its website, “a modern take on a Premier Cocktail Destination™ or other less an old biro, in our zhajiangmian. Not ideal. vintage dive bar,” or put another way, an salubrious locations (take a bow, First Floor). expensive cocktail lounge styling itself as daily, lunchtime-11pm/midnight (opening times vary); ‘gritty,’ De Refter is a gritty beer bar styling daily 5pm-2am; courtyard 4, gongti beilu, chaoyang 74 baochao hutong, dongcheng 东城区宝砂胡同74号 itself as an expensive lounge. 朝阳区工体北路4号the rug咖啡对面 (8405 0399)

58 | march 2015 | www.thatsmags.com Pick something from that menu or simply ask for a creation based Tony’s on which spirits and flavors you like. The latter may be a good idea if you Workshop don’t dig anything too sharp or floral – most drinks here are of that type. The two Lounge Bar, Literally prepared for us are shades of green and pink that might look better as a neon sign. First by Will Philipps up is a World Traveler (RMB98), a mix of Japanese shochu and Midori, a melon liqueur, Price which scores highly for originality, if nothing Around RMB100 and up else. Next, we try a Rose Lady (RMB98), for cocktails which you’ll need to drink slowly to let the Who’s Going rose-petal-infused ice ball fully melt into the Drinkers looking for liquid. Both drinks are tart, but not enough post work tranquility to lose their balance. Good For Tony’s previous establishment, the now

Tony’s cocktail-loving noemi cassanelli by photo defunct Lush House, was a bar whose over- neighbors for the bathroom. Tony’s Workshop is a peacocked interior made for a slightly Tony’s Workshop sits comfortably in the perfectly functioning bar, but by day it may uncomfortable drinking spot. The Workshop upper echelons of unconventional Beijing very well be Tony’s actual apartment. is the complete opposite: quiet, comfortable bars. It’s a one-bedroom studio space hidden It’s owned by a Mr Tony Zhao, an expert and withdrawn. Lounge bars don’t get more away on the eleventh floor of an apartment cocktail-mixer with a penchant for flowery lounge than this. block, and wears its cocktail bar disguise drinks and wallpaper. He’s the kind of man pretty thinly. Position yourself at the bar who would describe his mixology as an daily 6pm-3am; rm 1111, unit 2, yongli international in the living room, sit as a small group on art form, and supporting that claim is the building, gongti bei lu, sanlitun 朝阳区工体北路永利 armchairs in the bedroom, or go and take fact that every item on the drinks list is 国际2单元1111室 (calling ahead recommended 8424 a quick shower, if there’s not a long queue meticulously hand-drawn and written out. 4285)

In economics, the ‘Three Cs’ theory suggests that we can gauge how well a country is performing based on its luxury spending. Champagne, cigars and caviar: the more we’re buying, the richer we surely are. With sales of champagne and cigars suggesting that China’s economy has been doing quite well recently (in spite of a well publicized anti-graft campaign), Kaluga Queen Caviar thinks that it’s time to complete our luxurious trinity. Whether ‘Three Cs’ is a watertight theory or not, skyrocketing sales of caviar must surely now be due. But don’t be fooled by the prestige and hyperbole. An increase in sustainable fish farming in China means that ‘black gold,’ which was once only found on the black market, is now more readily available and Many Chinese restaurants are starting to affordable. incorporate the delicacy into their dishes. Only sturgeon roe can be technically Kaluga Queen ships to Da Dong roast duck classified as caviar. Traditionally sourced restaurant, for instance, as well as advising from the freshwater sturgeon of the chefs on how best to work with the flavors. Caspian Sea, the caviar experts at Kaluga Good caviar (be warned, there is plenty of Queen have brought the same techniques imitation roe out there) should be round, to the fish farms of Zhejiang. Having set up shiny and about 2.3-3mm in diameter. The its operation in Qiandao Lake in 2003 (a taste should not be too strong, with hints reservoir built in the 1950s which is free of butter and milk, and if you detect a more from industrial pollution), Kaluga Queen pungent aroma like cod liver oil, then it remains the only company in the country has been exposed for too long and is best with the environmental credentials to avoided. The caviar should not be sticky to advertorial operate a fish farm. the touch. Pair with a highly distilled vodka It takes eight years of farming before or champagne. Kaluga sturgeon bear eggs. But when they are ready to be taken, the washing and salting process for more information visit their online shop at takes a mere 15 minutes before the caviar is kalugaqueen.tmall.com, or follow Kaluga Queen on Queen Caviar bottled, frozen and shipped off. wechat, username: kaulgaqueen.

www.thatsmags.com | march 2015 | 59 COMMUNITY community | tiger father

Break a leg, eat a leg My Issues with Traditional Chinese Medicine

by Trevor Marshallsea

“As an Australian I love the odd leg of lamb. But I’ve never been prescribed one”

As everyone knows, the Chinese are a very was causing pain, much to the consterna- – which was desper- clever bunch who’ve invented everything tion of our lovely, caring, urbane and edu- ately needed – my bar the handkerchief and the non-life- cated ayi. I told her how an MRI scan and teacher told the par- threatening toilet. gamma camera testing at a Sydney unit of able of her grandma’s They invented paper. Where would we nuclear medicine had shown that bacteria broken leg. be right now without it? In fact, you’d look had colonized the metal in my leg, and that quite silly staring at the gap between your - up a special paste, hands. They conceived the printing press – cate. using“Our herbs, doctor and made put an excellent idea for what to then do with this“Eat was some a very leg!” difficult she said. problem to eradi it on her leg, and their paper. They invented gunpowder (if “What?” told her to lie down not a gun to put it in) and they invented “If you’ve got a problem with your leg, to rest – and her leg the compass (where we’d be without that eat some leg!” healed!” my teacher would be impossible to tell). As an Australian I love the odd leg of exclaimed. In what could be called a stutterer’s lamb. But I’ve never been prescribed one. “How long did she nightmare, they proved particularly prodi- Ayi, however, was insistent. I should point lie down for?” I said. gious at the P’s. Ponder the printing press, out she’s not a doctor. But she has been a “Two months!” she paper, porcelain, playing cards, the pon- Chinese person all her life, and swears by cried. toon bridge and the pinhole camera. these theories. If, for example, she had a Another ayi’s They seem not quite as good at the M’s, problem with her eyes, she’d eat some eyes mother had cancer, however. There’s music. If ever a Music and said her doctor Crimes Tribunal is set up in The Hague its Similarly, if one had problematic feet, had used leeches. I they(at our should local eatfish feet head (chicken restaurant). or pig – just thought blood-letting And I hope they throw the book at ‘em! check the dose). If you want a strong, had died about the Andfirst thentarget there’s would medical surely bescience. Peking Opera. healthy penis, eat some penis (or, of same time as Queen course, horn). I’m not sure which human Victoria. “No,” ayi whether the Chinese also ‘invented’ – or said. “They take a wereOn thethis true note authors we must of also – [at consider least some the idea. leech, grind it up, and of the works of] Shakespeare, for “eye of partIf only is served it were by all ‘fin so of simple. shark,’ As but for you doc get- put it in my mother’s newt and toe of frog” appears not only in tors, my favorite remedy has to be the Macbeth, but on the label of a worrying number of Chinese medicines. was stunned by how many people had love medicine.” Oh, ok. I will doubtless be scorned by some bites,good oldor hickeys,throat-pull. on their When necks. I first Immedi got here- I usuallyThe efficacy came straight of this hideouslyback up. Many priced such and here for a perceived lack of tolerance and ately I thought of home, having grown up charlatansflavored potion abound, remains charging in doubt, the earth for it for open-mindedness. But that’s okay. It’s part in a trailer park. But here, even the gran- these unproven or just plain silly concoc- of a medical condition I have called “get- nies were doing it! tions. ting old.” Let’s just say that personally, I’d - With acupuncture widely hailed, to take Western chemicals any day (though nese teacher, who’d seemed such a nice dismiss Chinese medicine entirely would, preferably Saturday, as I can sleep it off on girl,It wasone dayfinally had explained one such whenmark onmy her Chi of course, be throwing the baby out with Sunday). No, I mean chemical medicines, neck. I politely enquired if she was some the bath water. You could at least label it a the ones tested and proven to work in kind of, err, harlot? can of worms, but that’s probably a job for evidence-based trials… and all that. She said while her morals were tight, a pharmacist. For non-Chinese parents here, the deci- she’d had her sore throat “loosened” by a sion on how to treat your sick kids is a no- Trevor Marshallsea was a foreign correspondent in said she already felt better. It was probably Beijing in the 1990s and returned a decade later. liquid, versus a dose of the local mystery becausedoctor tugging he had atstopped. it with his fingers. She This time around he stays at home to grow the brainer – some pink, strawberry-flavored This method may have absolutely zero kids. Read more of his domestic adventures at Everybody is happier with the former. For basis in science, but it does make China a www.thetigerfather.com adults,pill… Now I’d sayin new it’s… turtle also ablood no-brainer. flavor! great place to have an affair: “No darling! I once broke my leg, and it now has lots I’ve just been to the doctor!” of metal in it. Recently, it got infected and For further proof of TCM’s effectiveness

60 | MARCH 2015 | www.thatsmags.com advertorial | community new kid on the block Traders Hotel Gets with the Times and Rebrands Itself to Hotel Jen When you’re traveling to an unfamiliar vice that is informed, intuitive and with city, for example, you’ll need all the online resources you can get. “We noticed the the biggest changes we made is training shift in the market, the huge number of oura friendly staff – style,” many ofAng themselves continues. millennials “One of millennial travelers coming to our hotels,” – to understand and respond to modern General Manager Alan Ang tells us in the travelers’ needs and facilitate a sense of sun-drenched lobby of Hotel Jen Upper adventure. We are simply evolving with East, formerly the Traders. “We studied the market, responding to today’s global the way this newer generation lives. Fast and free WiFi and device charge points Chinese name jinlü – ‘today travel.’” are essential, whether it’s to share a photo travelerBut what demands. of their That’s English reflected name, Jen? in our or access information for sightseeing or “It’s a virtual persona: a lover of fun who’s urban exploring. Increasingly, both busi- looking for adventure. All communications ness and leisure travelers are independent are told through her voice and she is repre- Picture an average day with you and your and adventurous.” The urban exploring sented by our team, themselves an exten- cellphone. Its alarm wakes you up in the sion of her voice.” After all, mobile phones morning. You check the day’s AQI reading The hotel asked 90 local photographers to talk to us all day with alerts and messages, on it, before using it to hail a taxi to work. exploreaspect was and reflected photograph in a Beijing recent withcampaign. the why should a hotel be any different? “We’re During the journey you check your calen- Jen logo. hoping our staff step out of their comfort dar for meetings, then use it to order some zone and establish emotional loyalty with food when you arrive… In fact, try and pic- total comfort are mobile/tablet check-in, our customers. You might not notice much ture a day without your cellphone? Hard breakfastOther ‘injenious’ to go if you features oversleep, Jen offersPress -for of a change of aesthetic: with the switch to isn’t it? We’re hooked up online almost all Reader app with free access to 2,500 on- Jen it’s not so much a hardware change, as the time; our phone is our portal to the line publications, and even a 24-hour gym a software change.” world’s information around us. if you’re struggling with jetlag. These changing daily habits are taken The environment outside the hotel is Hotel Jen Upper east; 2 dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝 into careful consideration by Hotel Jen, also taken into careful consideration. “We 阳区东四环北路2号 (5907 8888) a new brand from the Shangri-La group. are more city-centric, providing a ser- An Inspiring Message Interview with Sandy Wang, General Manager, Beijing Marriott Hotel Northeast

International hotels really are interna- tranquil lobby. tional, in every sense. Rarely do the staff “I’ve seen Beijing undergo so many – especially those occupying senior posi- changes – it is, of course, a very different tions – have any local knowledge. Like the city today than it was even ten years ago – guests they help accommodate, they are and it continues to change,” she explains. temporary residents – newbies, if you like “But for all its new appearances, the spirit – whose hotel tenure typically lasts no of Beijing is the same. The ancient tradi- longer than a few short years, before they tions continue.” are whisked away on their next adven- Understanding a city as seemingly vast ture. The opportunity for travel – both and complex as Beijing is a massive attrib- international and domestic – is among the ute, as Wang is beginning to discover: “I industry’s biggest draws – and one of the like to meet the guests and make them feel primary reasons hospitality remains one at home, because this is, after all, my home of China’s most popular graduate careers. too. I sometimes feel a little like an ambas- It is then, something of a rarity to meet sador!” a general manger of a major international The ambassadorial duties extend beyond hotel, who is not only familiar with their her hometown pride – as a female general immediate surrounds – but was born and manager in a male-dominated industry, raised there too. Step up, Sandy Wang. As General Manager of the Beijing Marriott and inspire her junior staff members. “I within the company to pursue their own Hotel Northeast, Wang is perhaps unique startedWang is outhelping as an to accountant,” level the playing she tells field us dreams – and realize that hard work is within the Beijing international hotel with a smile. “I never planned on becom- rewarded, no matter if you are a man or a Be- ing general manager, but here I am. And woman.” ijingren. “My career has taken me all over for that I thank the Marriott group,” she world, in that she is a genuine, bonafide Beijing Marriott Hotel Northeast, 26A Xiaoyun lu, myself back in my hometown,” she tells us, 17 years working for the company. “I hope Chaoyang 朝阳区霄云路甲26号 (5927 8888) overChina afternoon – but I’m extremelycoffee, in her happy hotel’s to find large mysays story of her encourages first general other manager young role women after

www.thatsmags.com | MARCH 2015 | 61 community | health

TEETHING PROBLEMS Why Early Dental Check-ups Matter

by Karoline Kan

“Some parents believe that it is more effective to start orthodontic treatment when their children are older but this is simply wrong”

When Dr Sui Qiang joined HarMoniCare Women and Children’s Hospital last sum- says. methods. mer as its new director of stomatology (oral benefitBesides their hereditary children complications,in the future,” hemany be“Many spotted diseases and rectified are connected using professional with more medicine), he sensed both opportunities childhood dental problems result from bad serious ones. If patients miss an oppor- and challenges. At the time, his department habits like nail-biting, Dr Sui explains. If tune time to cure small problems, it could had no specialized programs for kids, yet these habits are noticed and corrected in become a major regret,” warns Dr Sui. Dr Sui saw countless small children visit- the early stages of their development, it “It is my hope that I don’t meet too many ing the hospital for various other reasons. will save a lot of trouble in the future. children with existing teeth problems, but An idea came to him: Why not turn this “Some parents believe that it is more instead just encounter those healthy kids department into a pediatric dentistry de- effective to start orthodontic treatment whose parents just want to nip problems in partment? when their children are older but this is the bud.” “Here at the hospital we have the re- simply wrong,” he says. “Some problems The doctor also believes that regular sources,” he explains. “I really wanted to can’t be cured by the time they’re teenag- appointments will help children familiar- promote the idea to parents that early ers. Once the jaw is fully grown, for in- ize themselves with the hospital setting, dental care is important for every baby.” stance, even after dental work, the facial making them more at ease: “Many children Over the past year, the hospital has bone structure can’t be changed. Even with are afraid of dentists. If they are familiar built up a team that Dr Sui believes has the major surgery, the room for improvement with the environment and the people in skills, knowledge and passion required to is limited.” the hospital, they will love this place,” he popularize early dental examination. The For Dr Sui and his team, an ideal result says, before revealing HarMoniCare’s plan doctors in the department focus on two key would be ensuring every baby born in the to decorate the pediatric dentistry depart- outcomes: building up parents’ awareness hospital undergoes a general examina- ment in the style of a children’s wonderland of their children’s dental care, and improv- tion, which would include a dental check (Dr Sui even plans on wearing cartoon ing their own skills as medical practition- immediately after they are born. From six ers. months onwards, the hospital will start that hilarious!” “Even though many parents have the to build dental records for them. As they costumes). “The children are sure to find awareness, sometimes when it comes to grow up, young patients will gradually be > Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Children’s Hospital, 2 - given more protective treatments, such as Xiaoguan Beili, Beiyuan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区北苑路小关 less. We provide professional guidance and - 北里甲2号 (6499 0000, [email protected] ) lettaking them action, know they that finda little themselves time and helpmoney tion on how to properly clean their teeth. invested during early years will hugely Withregular regular fluorine check-ups, smears, any as well bad ashabits instruc will

62 | march 2015 | www.thatsmags.com Events are editors’ picks of the best activities and are not comprehensive. To list an event, email bjevents@urbanatomy. Events com. For some details, see Listings. > RMB40, (RMB30 presale); 9pm; Dusk SUN MAR 1 EAT/DRINK Dawn Club (see Listings for details) COMMUNITY Talk: The Perfect Storm FRI MAR 6 Want to share your life experiences and hear about amazing lives of others? NIGHTLIFE Then this story-telling night, featuring DJ: Dim Sum Disco average people with incredible stories, Dim Sum Disco’s resident DJs Boflex and will be right up your street. Crystal Bones return to the spotlight. > RMB40 (members), RMB50 (non- After a star-studded New Year’s Eve and members); 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see crazy kick-off to 2015 with San Soda, the Listings for details) pair regains control of the decks with long sets and no compromises. Expect delicious slabs of disco all night long. SUN MAR 1 & MAR 8 > Free (before 11pm), RMB30; 10pm; COMMUNITY Migas (see Listings for details) Talk: Story Time DJ: Damacha Sunday sessions of reading, games, Shanghai-based American producer music and activities for little readers. Damacha raps in Chinese over his own Each week, teacher Emily reads new and beats. Bet you can’t do that. classic children’s books with the help > RMB30; 10pm; Dada (see Listings for of other storytellers. Suitable for ages 4 details) and up. Note that the usual weekly ses- Thu Mar 5 sion has been cancelled for the last three DJ: This Is Lantern weekends of March. DJ Gee-E, Shen Yue and Weng Weng play > RMB50; 11am; The Bookworm (see EAT: The Arepera Pop-up techno all night at Gongti’s subterranean Listings for details) cool-magnet, Lantern. > RMB30 (free before 11pm); 10pm; at Jing-A Taproom Lantern (see Listings for details) TUE MAR 3 Calling all fans of hard-to-find Colombian/Venezuelan street food: Mosto’s chef COMMUNITY Daniel Urdaneta is hosting a one-night-only pop-up at Jing-A’s taproom, where he’ll Poetry: Word of Mouth be serving a range of arepas. Likened to a South American roujiamo, the grilled SAT MAR 7 Any subject and any theme is welcome corn flour buns, stuffed with meat/veggies/cheese, actually justify the overused NIGHTLIFE at this poetry reading night. Just turn up ‘pop-up’ tag – the maize flour needed for the buns isn’t imported commercially into Performance: Beijing Improv Long- and enjoy one of the oldest forms of art, Beijing, so Daniel had to raid the store cupboards of some Latin embassy friends. Form free of charge. That means they probably won’t be popping up again any time soon. We had a China’s oldest and largest improvised > Free; 8pm; The Bookworm (see Listings sneak preview of the bites (fillings include shredded beef and cheese, chicken and theater organization presents script- for details) avocado, and white bean and cheese) and they are a fantastic accompaniment to a less, long-form that uses audience sug- few ales. A Colombia/Venezuela-inspired beauty pageant will be held on the night, gestions to create an extended scene. naturally, while Alex Molina has prepared an all-Latin playlist for the sound system, Attendees never know what is in store – WED MAR 4 (arepas are RMB22/piece). laughs and a good time guaranteed. COMMUNITY > Thursday March 5, 5pm-midnight; Jing-A Taproom (see Listings for details) > RMB65 (members), RMB75 (non- members); 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Reading: Hanging Devils Listings for details) The Bookworm’s book club has chosen its second book for discussion – Hanging ARTs Gig: Hot Club of Beijing (Jazz Devils by local author He Jiahong. Manouche) > Free; 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Tap your feet to the gypsy jazz of prize- Listings for details) winning local band, Hot Club of Beijing, as they follow in the tradition of Django NIGHTLIFE Reinhardt’s Hot Club of France in the DJ: Taylor McFerrin 1930. Taylor McFerrin, son of American vocalist > RMB50, (RMB40 presale); 9pm; Dusk and classical conductor Bobby McFerrin, Dawn Club (see Listings for details) makes his first Asia tour, mixing modern beats with Motown and various other DJ: HomeBase Electric sonic explorations. With an ever-changing line-up of local > RMB50; 10pm; Dada (see Listings for performers, HomeBase continues to details, soundcloud.com/taylor-mcferrin) prove you don’t need international acts to make great events. The March edition will bring DJ QQ and Huang WeiWei with support from Lantern boss Weng THU MAR 5 Weng. COMMUNITY All Month > RMB30, free before 11pm; Lantern (see Talk: Maria Coffey Listings for details) Join Maria Coffey for an entertaining talk about her life as an author and journal- Stage: Kunqu Opera at NCPA EAT/DRINK ist. She’ll discuss, among much else, the Seven Kunqu Opera troupes from different Chinese provinces will be showcased Party: Viva Las Vegas trials of juggling her creative passion over a 21-day program for NCPA’s first ever Kunqu Opera Festival. Originally from with the demands of running an adven- The newly-opened Blue Marlin hosts a Suzhou in Jiangsu, Kunqu Opera dates back 600 years and is one of China’s oldest Vegas-themed night with a delicious set ture travel company and a new initiative surviving forms of opera. The shows at NCPA offer a chance to see this quintessen- to protect elephants in Asia and Africa. menu, an open bar on selected drinks tially Chinese art form, recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO, > RMB40 (members), RMB50 (non- and entertainment in various forms. Just brought to life with big-budget stage design, effects and costumes. members); 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see like in Las Vegas. Listings for details) Feb 27-28, Dream of the Red Chamber (NCPA); Mar 3, Peony Pavilion (Hunan > RMB250 (set-meal), RMB100 (open Kunqu Troupe, NCPA); Mar 5-7, Peony Pavilion (Suzhou Kunqu Troupe, NCPA); Mar bar), RMB350 (set meal plus open bar); 10-11, Palace of Eternal Life (NCPA); Mar 17-18, Great General Han Xin (NCPA); Mar 8pm; Blue Marlin, 4 Dongsanhuan Beilu, NIGHTLIFE 19, Scholar Zhang Xie (Chang’an Grand Theater) Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路4号 Gig: Jess Meider and Gaofeng > RMB100-500, 7.30pm, National Center For Performing Art, 2 Xi Chang’an Jie 西 Jess Meider is and American jazz vocal- 城区西长安街2号, Chang’an Grand Theater, 7 Jianguomennei Dajie, Dongcheng ARTs ist and guitarist, who’s been based in 东城区建国门内大街7号 (to buy online visit http://www.chncpa.org/ or http://www. Film: Dummy Jim the big smog for almost two decades. damai.cn/bj/) Tonight she teams up with Gaofeng for a Nominated for the Michael Powell DJ set/eclectic live rock combo. Award, Dummy Jim weaves fiction, documentary, animation and archive footage

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to explore the eccentric adventures of NIGHTLIFE deaf long-distance cyclist James Duthie. ARTS > RMB20, RMB10 (for UCCA members); DJ: Hari Shankar Kishore 5pm; UCCA (see Listings for details) Danish producer Hari Shankar Kishore, aka DJ Hvad, makes his China debut. Expect a unique blend of mangled SUN MAR 8 Indian percussion, glitchy breaks, broken dubplates and charred samples. Part of COMMUNITY JUE | Music + Art 2015. Lecture: China Cello Philharmonic > RMB30; 10pm; Dada (see Listings for Sunday Salon is an interactive lecture details) series that provides a rare opportunity to hear symphony performers and to learn more about their art. This month in the FRI MAR 13 Salon – The China Cello Philharmonic. NIGHTLIFE > RMB50; 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Listings for details) Gig: Primitive Calculators JUE | Music + Art presents the brash, Film: This Is Sanlitun visceral sound of Primitive Calculators. Film screening and Q&A with the direc- Once one of the rawest acts of the 70s tor of This is Sanlitun (2013), a Beijing ex- Australian punk scene, 35 years later pat flick that puts the ‘mock’ in mocku- they’re back – meaner and wrinklier mentary. Stars erstwhile That’s columnist Fri Mar 13 - Sun mar 29 than ever. Carlos Ottery aka Beta Dad. It won’t be > RMB80, (RMB60 for students); 9pm; winning the Golden Lion anytime soon, Yugong Yishan (See Listings for details) but it’s not without some entertaining The Bookworm Literary Festival DJ: Jue X Lost Cargo - Cian O’Donnel moments. The annual Bookworm Literary Festival hosts over 300 events across 11 cities As part of JUE | Music + Art Festival > RMB60, RMB40 for members and stu- in China, bringing together some of the brightest and most engaging names dents; 6-9.30pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique 2015, Lost Cargo (Shanghai’s Sub- in Chinese and international literature. Below are our picks of the best talks in Culture side project) presents a night of Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石雀胡同10 Beijing this year; the remaining schedule, including workshops and kids events, 号 (8404 4166) eclectic, strictly-vinyl sounds with very can be found at bookwormfestival.com. (See page 33-35 for interviews with special guest Cian O’Donnell from New Horatio Clare and Michael Meyer, including details on when to hear their talks.) Zealand’s Conch Records. ARTS > All talks are at The Bookworm unless otherwise stated > RMB50; 10pm; Dada (see Listings for Films: Matt Hulse Shorts details) A selection of short films by British director Matt Hulse, including Take Me Home The Need for Literature Committing Journalism (1997), Wee Three (1998) and Summer The Moroccan-born writer, Tahar Ben A medley of China correspondents, SAT MAR 14 3 (2012). Q&A with the director follows Jelloun, talks on the importance of including Laura Daverio and Anthony COMMUNITY the screening. the novel. Now a native of Paris, he Kuhn, come together to discuss their Talk: Tim Cope (Australian Writers > RMB30; 4.30pm; Zajia Lab (see Listings rose to fame in 1985 with his story, latest experiences and rewards and Week) for details) The Sand Child, before becoming challenges of reporting in China. Tim Cope has ridden a bicycle across the first Arab recipient of the Prix > RMB80; 1pm, Thursday March 26 Russia to China, rowed a boat along TUE MAR 10 Goncourt, France’s top literary prize, the Yenisey River through Siberia to the for The Sacred Night in 1987. One of In Conversation with Willis Arctic Ocean, and made a 6,000 mile COMMUNITY the most translated French writers Barnstone journey by horse from Mongolia to Green Drinks in the world, his work examines the Amongst the most distinguished of Hungary on the trail of Genghis Khan. Join Beijing’s green community for infor- themes of gender, race, religion and this year’s speakers, the 87-year-old Watch the award-winning adventurer’s mal drinks at its monthly meet-and-greet color. poet, scholar and translator has a film The Final Frontier at this event, for those interested in environmental, > RMB100; 6pm, Saturday March 14 deep fondness for China, first visit- where Cope will be present for a Q&A. social and development issues in China. ing the country in 1972 during the (Catch Tim at The Bookworm Literary > Free; 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Writing Between the Sheets Cultural Revolution before returning festival, too.) Listings for details) A discussion on China’s attitudes as a Fulbright professor at Beijing > RMB100; time TBA (evening); The to sexual openness with Faramerz Foreign Studies University in 1984. Hutong (see Listings for details; info@ thehutong.com, 159 0104 6127) Dabhoiwala, author of The Origins of > RMB100; 12pm Saturday March 28 WED MAR 11 Sex; Lijia Zhang, whose novel Lotus NIGHTLIFE focuses on prostitution in modern Writing China Through History ARTS Gig: Warbringer China; and Jemimah Steinfeld, whose In a talk moderated by Pulitzer Literature: Gerardo Mosquera When not bringing war, American thrash book Little Emperors and Material Prize-winning journalist Ian Johnson, The art critic Gerardo Mosquera presents metal band Warbringers are delivering Girls examines China’s sex and youth three prominent experts discuss the the Chinese edition of his book The their trademark thrash metal. Furious culture. ever-changing experience of living in Endless Islands, followed by a screening and relentless, the band’s ten-year career > RMB80; 12pm, Sunday March 15 China: Willis Barnstone (see above); of the documentary Contemporary Art has seen them veer into sister genres: Dean Barrett, a playwright whose and Patios of Quito. traditional heavy metal, some grim The Unbearable Dreamworld of work has been heavily influenced by > Price TBD; 5.30pm; The Cervantes Institute in Beijing; A1 Gongti Nanlu, black metal, and even a touch of punk/ Champa the Driver three decades spent in Asia; and Mark Chaoyang 朝阳区工体南路甲1号 hardcore. Known for his 2009 novel The O’Neill, a reporter whose non-fiction > RMB200 (at door), RMB130 (advance Fat Years, Beijing-based Chan examines influential figures in the before March 11); 8pm; tickets: 6215 Film: 10 Seconds Of My Day Koonchung’s second work tells the formation of the PRC. 9844, or online via Yoopay and Taobao; 10 Seconds Of My Day is a documentary story of a Tibetan driver who chauf- Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details) > RMB80; 6pm, Saturday March 28 project that involved one artist recording feurs a rich Han businesswomen 10 seconds of each day for a year and Gig: Bastian Baker before starting a risky affair with her. Comedy China featuring Joe Wong putting together all the footage. Hope Beijing debut for the 23-year-old Swiss Chan’s works are not without a satiri- As a China-born comedian who’s he had an interesting year. pop singer Bastian Baker, who’s already cal leaning and take a wry look at life made it big stateside, Joe Wong is > RMB50, (RMB40 presale); 8pm; Dusk played on some of Europe’s biggest in modern China. something of a rarity. He performs a Dawn Club (see Listings for details) stages. > RMB60; 8pm Monday March 16; new full-length set along with some > RMB80, RMB60 (presale); 9pm; Dusk venue: iQiyi Cafe of Beijing’s best local comedians from NIGHTLIFE Dawn Club (see Listings for details) Comedy Club China. Party: INTRO 2015 Ignition Party Death Fugue Book Launch > RMB150; 8pm, Saturday March 28 INTRO festival may have been cancelled THU MAR 12 One of China’s most promising young last year but there’s life in this old dog female Chinese writers, Sheng Keyi Inside The Laowai Actors Studio yet. We’re informed that INTRO 2015 ARTS rose to fame with her debut novel, Even wondered what it would be is very much happening (across three Exhibition: In The Center of The Northern Girls, later receiving world- like to answer that ad looking for a stages, no less) and if you can’t wait till Labyrinth wide acclaim after its English transla- foreign extra in a Chinese sci-fi flick? then, the party gets started at Lantern Seven Mexican artists working in China tion in 2012. This talk, in English and These guys did – then made a career this month. aim to restore and reinvent the cultural Chinese, is to celebrate the release of of it. Join this panel of foreign ac- > RMB50; 10pm; Lantern (see Listings and artistic connections between these her latest novel, Death Fugue, about tors as they reveal their lives on and, for details) two great historical societies on the the breakdown of idealism and futil- perhaps more tellingly, off Chinese Pacific rim. ity of art. screens. > Price TBD; 6.30pm; The Cervantes > RMB80; 4pm Sunday March 22 > RMB80; 6pm Sunday March 29 SUN MAR 15 Institute in Beijing; A1 Gongti Nanlu, COMMUNITY Chaoyang 朝阳区工体南路甲1号 Game: Beginner’s Mahjong In this training session, learn the skills

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and tactics needed for this timeless classic of a game. Followed directly by open nightlife SAT MAR 21 gaming time. ARTS > RMB120 (RMB40 for members); 10am- 12pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique Hutong, Exhibition: Input – 10 Years of Spanish Dongcheng 东城区石雀胡同10号 (8404 Photography in China 4166) Collection revisiting the recent work of six Spanish photographers who live and Talk: Maxine Beneba Clarke Poetry work in China. Each tries to capture their (Australian Writers Week) personal analysis of the country and the Maxine Beneba Clarke is a spoken word influence it has played in their creative performer, poet and writer. Her col- development. lection of short stories, Foreign Soil, > Price TBD; 6.30pm; AOTU Studio, 67 was published in 2014 and currently Toutiao Beixinqiao, Dongcheng 东城区北 she is working on a memoir The Hate 新桥头条67号 Race about growing up black in white, middle-class Australia. NIGHTLIFE > Price/venue TBA; 10am-12pm; (visit bookwormfestival.com for news Gig: Yozoh of events; [email protected]; As one South Korea’s most remarkable 6586 9507) indie-pop musicians, Yozoh, has become something of an icon by writing theme songs for many of South Korea’s most famous TV dramas. He’s also a movie WED MAR 18 star and published author. Part of JUE NIGHTLIFE Festival. Gig: The BigBadMantet > RMB180 (door), RMB120 (presale); The BigBadMantet is a collaborative jazz 8pm; Yugong Yishan (See Listings for project between musicians in Beijing and details) Shanghai, putting a modern and funky Sat Mar 14 twist to some Motown-era classics. Gig: Jonas Seetoh > RMB60, (RMB50 presale); 9pm; Dusk Jonas Seetoh is recognized as a leading Dawn Club (see Listings for details) DJ: THE FIXX presents UZ jazz vocalist and pianist in China whose THE FIXX are bringing over the biggest name in trap music for their debut event soulful voice resonates with a unique charm that recalls the Motown crooners at 8MM: UZ. Since emerging in 2012, the producer has already worked with of old. THU MAR 19 Mad Decent, Dea5maus, and most recently Ice Cube to rework his hit ‘Drop Girl.’ > RMB80, (RMB60 presale); 9pm; Dusk NIGHTLIFE Outgoing That’s nightlife columnist Alex tells us; “Ambitious, special and exciting Dawn Club (see Listings for details) Gig: Awesome Tapes From Africa little morsel this one…ambitious because it’s at the intriguing 8MM (the huge club Brian Shimkovitz and his project on the East Third Ring with a car suspended from the side), special because it’s joint- DJ: Housing the Bar with Juhstynn Awesome Tapes from Africa brings a promoted by Beijing bass music OG, Oshi, and young buck, Bloodz Boi, and exciting Deep House, disco gems, a taste of brand new breath of fresh air to Beijing’s because it’s UZ, one of trap music’s originators, who I last saw destroy a dance floor Detroit and plenty of heavy grooves nightlife by introducing some of the of a couple thousand people at Fabric in London. Unmissable, this one.” keep the dancefloor thumping at this best independent African music of the > RMB120 (RMB80 presale); Saturday March 14, 8MM WF1-WF2, Landmark Towers monthly session at Migas. This time last thirty years. Part of JUE | Music + Bldg. 2, 8 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路8号亮马河大厦2号楼WF1- around Juhstynn meets Nassdak in the Art 2015. WF2室 (email [email protected] for presale ticket enquiries) DJ booth. > RMB50; 10pm; Dada (see Listings for > Free entry, 10pm; Migas (see Listings details) for details) EAt/DRINK FRI MAR 20 SUN MAR 22 NIGHTLIFE COMMUNITY Gig: Emilie Simon Talk: Damon Young Children’s Night The enigmatic French singer Emilie Children’s writer Damon Yang’s comes to Simon comes to Beijing with her unique the Capital Library for a reading, a Q&A mix of electronic, pop and Bjork-like and some interactive fun with children vocals. She’ll perform songs from and their parents. With Chinese transla- her Victoires de la Musique prize- tion. winning album. Part of JUE | Music + > Free; 2-3pm; Capital Library, 88 Art 2015. Dongsanhuan Nanlu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东 > RMB180 (on the door), RMB150 三环南路88号首都图书馆 (presale); 8.30pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details) WED MAR 25 DJ: Tornado Wallace NIGHTLIFE Armed with the Boogie, Australian disco wizard Tornado Wallace has got some Gig: Annie Chen NY Sextet heavily grooved artillery aimed directly Annie Chen New York Sextet is a modern at Beijing. jazz ensemble making their debut ap- > RMB50; 10pm; Migas (see Listings for pearance in Mainland China. details) > RMB80, RMB60 (presale); 9pm; Dusk Dawn Club (DDC) (see Listings for de- DJ: Neon Zoo tails) Beijing’s wildest party series, Neon Zoo is back. You should know the drill by now, but for the uninitiated: UV lights, neon FRI MAR 27 deco, face/body painting and neon gifts NIGHTLIFE for everyone. > RMB80, RMB50 for NB Noise follow- Wed Mar 11 – Sun Mar 22 Gig: The Groove Collective ers; 11pm; Lantern Club (see Listings for With a sound that can be considered details) as both modern and traditional, this is Eat: Restaurant Week Beijing a band that injects their own style into a melting pot of funk and blues-based DJ: Made in China The biannual Restaurant Week is back this March, offering Beijingers a chance to rhythms and fun-loving uproar. Made In China is a milestone for try a cut-price tailor-made set-menu at some of the smartest restaurants in town. GoaProductions as it marks the start of > RMB40, (RMB30 presale); 9pm; Dusk At the end of the week diners vote for their favorite restaurant – last year’s winner, Dawn Club (see Listings for details) music produced by China’s first genera- Flames Grill at the Hilton Wangfujing, makes a return appearance for 2015. tion of native homegrown Psytrance Other restaurants featured include newly opened Bottega (see p52) and artists. GoaProductions main man DJ: Street Kids 5-Year Anniversary Factory in 798, as well as some recognizable names in Beijing dining: Flamme, Atoned Splendor has spent the past year For their 5th year anniversary party, working closely with three promising Heritage, Morton’s Steakhouse, Via Roma and a few dozen more. Lunch and dinner Street Kids will turn Migas into an urban Chinese talents, Acid Echoes, Yi and menus available, with prices ranging from RMB88-258 depending on lunch/dinner wonderland, with a real skate ramp in Sixears, whose tracks will be featured at and restaurants. the bar, as well as all the usual dancing, tonight’s rave. > Dining City presents Restaurant Week, Wednesday March 11 - Sunday March 22; drinking and partying. What’s more, > RMB50; 9pm; Mako (see Listings for visit www.restaurantweek.cn/lang/en for the full list of participating restaurants the DJ booth will transform to a street food truck, with neon lights and other details) and details on how to book a table (booking opens March 6) installations.

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> RMB60; 10pm; Migas (see Listings for details) eat/drink EVERY WED COMMUNITY Gig: Hanggai Surely everyone’s favorite Inner Tour: The Forbidden City Tour Mongolian fusion act, international Learn about the nightmares that forced prize-winners Hanggai take you to the Emperor Yongle to move his capital to grasslands of their ancestral homeland. Beijing; find out why men were will- With a healthy does of rock thrown in ing to become eunuchs in order to for good measure. get access to the inner realms of his > RMB150 (door), RMB120 (presale), palace; and see for yourself why being 9pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for an Imperial concubine was such a dan- details) gerous job. An optional extra Archery Competition is also offered. > RMB290 (adults); RMB220 (kids under SAT MAR 28 14); 1.30-3.30pm/5pm; visit website for starting point and private tour pricing; NIGHTLIFE tours must be booked in advance (138 DJ: The Loop 1777 0229, [email protected], Eddie Lv brings his eclectic party back www.newmantours.com) to the Bar at Migas – great tunes played mainly on vinyl and all the expectedly good vibes. EVERY THU > Price TBD; 10pm; Migas (see Listings EAT/DRINK for details) Drink: Girls Night at Juice by Melissa DJ: Subcoat Every Thursday evening from 6-9 pm Syndicate Sessions returns, bringing it’s buy-one-get-one-free on delicious British-born, Hong Kong based DJ cold pressed cocktails and organic wine Subcoat to its hallowed decks alongside alongside Melissa’s brand new organic its pantheon of resident junglists. and gluten-free tasting menu. > RMB30; 10pm; Dada (see Listings for > Shop 101, Dongwai Gongguang, No.3 details) Xinzhong Dongjie, Dongcheng 东城区新中东街3号东外公馆101底商 (130 4112 DJ: SHINGO2 & SPIN MASTER A-1 1556) Tokyo-born Shing02 and SPIN MASTER A-1 from Osaka bring their turntable NIGHTLIFE skills to Yugong Yishan, playing a tribute set to Nujabes, a Japanese producer who Gig: Concrete Jungle passed away in 2010. Thursday is the new Friday, so jump into > RMB150, (RMB100 presale); the Funky Jungle as Cad 73 brings to 9pm;Yugong Yishan (see Listings for Migas the best concrete grooves, from details) ALL MONTH old-school hip hop to funky breaks and thumping disco. > Free; 10pm; Migas (see Listings for COMMUNITY Peter Grubben, Executive Pastry details) Game: Beer Pong Throw small round things into cups in the pursuit of creative methods of ine- Chef, Kempinski Hotel Beijing EVERY SAT briation. Monthly Beer Pong tournament What will you bring to the Kempinski Beijing as executive pastry chef? COMMUNITY at Kokomo hosted by Mashup Asia. Well, I have seventeen years of pastry and bakery experience from around the >Price TBD; 6.30pm; Kokomo Bar & Tour: The Beijing Hutong Adventure world. Although I’m new to Beijing, I’ve had plenty of China experience with two Find out why the Mongolians built Restaurant; 4F Tongli Studios, Sanlitun years in Shanghai, and I’ve worked in hotels from Fiji to Mumbai to London. I want Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯后街同 Beijing’s first hutongs, see what tradi- to bring international flavors to the Kempinski Beijing – we have a promotion 里南门4楼 tional Beijingers get up to when they where we focus on a dessert from a new country each week: we’ve had Sharlotka, think nobody is looking, and discover a Lithuanian apple cake, and Sweet Peanut Mochi, a kind of Japanese rice cake. how a warlord managed to return to EVERY DAY Beijing in a coffin alive. All this plus the What are your favorite menu items? option to enjoy a rickshaw ride, and try EAT/DRINK As a European I love anything from the bakery – breakfast is a big selling point your hand at some ping pong diplomacy. Drink: Migas Happy Hour and our range of continental breakfast items are unbeatable: heavy, solid breads, > 2.30-4.30pm/5.30pm; RMB190 (adults); RMB120 (kids under 14); visit website for The Migas happy hour is from 6 to 8pm Danishes, croissants… In hotels I worked at in London, pastries would be brought starting point and private tour pricing; every day this month. Buy-one-get-one- in from outside to save time and money since we were surrounded by great artisan free on all classic cocktails and house tours must be booked in advance. (138 bakeries. Here we don’t have that luxury so we make everything on site for break- 1777 0229, [email protected], spirits. fast at all the hotel’s restaurants. > Free; 6-8pm; Migas (see Listings for www.newmantours.com) details) Favorite kitchen you’ve worked in? Hard to say as I’ve worked in so many, but unquestionably the most influential was EAT/DRINK EVERY MON my grandma’s back home in the old days! She inspired me to become a chef. There Eat: Steak Night at Feast was always something going on in her kitchen – meals and dishes were prepared Every Friday, Feast (Food by EAST) will COMMUNITY days in advance sometimes. When I think about it now it’s really very nostalgic. be serving up a semi-buffet style Steak Dance: Salsa Palma Night. Get your fill on your favourite cuts of steak, as always, starters and desserts Enjoy a free weekly one-hour salsa les- As executive pastry chef, how much time is spent cooking vs. managing? son. Your learned teacher will guide are served buffet style at Feast. Well, you can’t really have cooking without managing. To cook in kitchens like > FRMB238 (+15 percent service) 5.30- you through a selection of merengue, these is all about managing; I’m doing both the whole time! That said, I like being bachata, cha-cha-chà, mambo, and of 10.30pm; Feast, EAST Hotel 2nd Floor, hands on – I enjoy time spent creating food the most. course, salsa. Plus a variety of Latin No. 22 Jiuxianqiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙 sounds on call to get you feeling tropi- 桥22号2层北京东隅酒店 (8414 9820) cal. Favorite Chinese cooking style? > Free; 8pm; Migas (see Listings for I love Cantonese food, all kinds of dim sum… even chicken feet. I actually first tried details) them in London’s Chinatown and have grown to love them. But there are still so EVERY SUN many regional cooking styles I’ve not yet tried so I’m happy to be back in China COMMUNITY and able to explore what Beijing has to offer. Tour: China In Fifty Objects Tour EVERY TUE Inspired by the New York Times best- Which is your favorite: white, dark or milk chocolate? NIGHTLIFE seller and wildly popular radio series, In my humble opinion there’s only really one chocolate and that’s dark. I like any- Newman Tours has created a tour that Gig: Hot Club of Beijing thing with a high percentage of cocoa – 65 percent plus. One of Beijing’s finest bands, The Hot explores the human history of China Club of Beijing, brings their raucous through 50 of the most celebrated art brand of swing and gypsy jazz to get Ultimate comfort food? objects in the National Museum. your hips swaying and your feet aching. A huge medium-rare steak with pan-fried foie-gras on top. > RMB190 (adults), RMB120 (kids); > Free; 9.30pm; Migas (see Listings for > Peter Grubben has been executive pastry chef at The Kempinksi Beijing Hotel 2-4pm; visit website for starting point details) since October 2014 overseeing operations at all their restaurants, including and private tour pricing, tours must the Kempi Deli. Kempinski Hotel Beijing Lufthansa Center, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, be booked in advance (138 1777 0229, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号 (6465 4008) [email protected], www.newmantours.com)

66 | march 2015 | www.thatsmags.com CITY SCENES

At The St. Regis Tianjin, McLaren and Uber join forces for a day (we’d love Uber even more if their drivers picked us up in a McLaren each time).

Beautiful models in revealing outfits and a plentiful supply of beer at the first Juan Campos (pictured) and Aitor Olabegoya have got beef – Jiarui wagyu and Corona SunSets Party at Xiu. (Where do we get tickets for the next one?) black British angus to be precise, arriving at Migas this spring.

Runners chug and sprint at the Jing-A Beer Mile – That’s editor Will Philipps, pictured Swans frontman Michael Gira loses himself to the music at Yugong second right, finishes a respectable seventh and manages not to vomit everywhere. Yishan. (Damn, that was some show.)

www.thatsmags.com | march 2015 | 67 Happy hours Meal deals Weekly Specials Brunch Food and Drink Ladies' nights

Mosaic

There are happy hours, double happy hours and then there’s Mosiac’s happy entire evening. Owners Ashi and Jenny clearly know the importance of a weekend well spent with this Friday and Saturday deal: from 5pm till 1.30am you can purchase four cocktails for RMB100. Additionally, everyday from 5pm until midnight you can get draft Tiger at RMB25 and Heineken for RMB30 – a pretty fantastic accompaniment to one of Mosaic’s classic chicken shawarmas or maybe a funky fusion shawarma burrito. Lastly, on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, between 5 and 10pm, you can get the following food/drink/shisha set-menu for RMB160 (pictured left): Heineken or draft Tiger beer, kafta pizza patty and single fruit flavor shisha (excludes beer happy hour). The perfect way to relax on their veranda as the summer draws near. > Mosaic (see Listings for details)

MONDAY to FRIDAY

Monday Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 Just RMB10 per taco – order as many as Mosaic 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6140 5230) you want. Buy-one-get-one-free pizza every Mai Bar > 1/F, Just Make Bldg, Xingfucun Wednesday lunchtime at Mosaic. Buy two cocktails, get one free. Agua Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路杰 > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St > 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区 Agua’s new set lunch menu is RMB118/ 作大厦1层 (6416 1715) (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), 北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641) person for three courses. Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32号楼临街店 > RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm- tuesday to Friday (137 1883 7065) Monday to Thursday 2:30pm, Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那 S.T.A.Y Restaurant Xian XIU 里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188 ) Three courses including coffee and tea Whiskey night, discounts on special Buy-one-get-one-free on selected drinks, for RMB388/person with 15 percent selected whiskeys. 6-9pm. Greyhound Café service charge, 11.30am-2.30pm. > All night, 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, > 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianwai Dajie, Only RMB28 for a Tsingtao or Bud, and > Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 (8414 Chaoyang 北京柏悦酒店, 朝阳区建国门外 RMB38 for a mojito or dry martini, 5-7pm. 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路 9810) 大街2号6楼 (8567 1108) > Greyhound Cafe (see listings for 29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211-6727) details) Monday to friday thursday Village Café wednesday One East Set Lunch, RMB98+15% (3 courses), Great Leap Brewing Domain Two-course set lunch: RMB118/ per RMB88+15% (2 courses) All day Wednesday, one select beer at Happy Burger’s Day, 2 for 1 Burger person, 12:00-2:30pm. > 11.30am-2.30pm, Bldg 1, The Opposite RMB25. promotion. 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 >At Number 6 Courtyard branch, (see > 10.30am-2pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang 区三里屯路11号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 listings for details) Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿 5210) 9830) 酒店2层 5865 5030 Mao Mao Chong Cocktails RMB35, 7-11pm. Opus Terrace Great Leap Brewing Monday to Saturday > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Ladies enjoy free cocktails; on Fridays, it’s 11:30-2pm, free soft drink or juice with Twilight Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街板 bachelors night, where chaps get 50 percent any burger or salad or add RMB5 for a Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun, 厂胡同12号 (6405 5718) off beer and burgers at the same times, 5-8pm. Pale Ale #6. RMB20 off cocktails. > Opus Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao > At Xinzhong Lu branch only, (see > 0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39 Elements Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路48号 listings for details) Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝 Free mojitos, champagne and cosmos, (5695 8888) 阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室 9pm-1am. Hagaki (5900 5376) > 58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 Set lunch, 11.30am-3pm, Bento style Friday 体西门58号 (6551 2373) lunch set from RMB58 with no service Mesh charge. Tuesday House Champagne buy 1 bottle get 1 5-10pm, Daiginjo Sake promotion, 4Corners Flamme Ladies get 15 percent off red wine. free. RMB550 / 150 Bottle / Carafe. Two-for-one steak all day. cheap shots and drink deals at 4Corners’ > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 > 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 > 3/F, S4-33 Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun weekly celebration of KTV. Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 区酒仙桥路22号1层 8414 9815 Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 > Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5220) 太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) 杯胡同7号 (6401 7797) Jing Yaa Tang Set lunch, RMB88/person, 4 for 3. El Gran Bocado > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11

68 | march 2015 | www.thatsmags.com events

Every day

Parlor Flamme 南街A-11 (8563 6215) soup, appetizer for RMB78. Curry sets Daily 6-8pm, buy one get one for free. Cocktail, beers and wine by the glass are R Lounge from RMB55-65 > 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸 50 percent off from 3-7.30pm daily. Daily 6-9pm, two-for-one standard > See Listings for details 福二村39-8 (8444 4135 ) > S4-33, 3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun drinks and cocktails. Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 > 4/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel, Beijing Marriott Hotel The Big Smoke 太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) 61 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝 Daily 11.30-2pm, dumplings, noodles Daily 4-7pm, 20 percent off all cocktails, 阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4 and desserts, including juice or tea, house wines and beers. Modo Urban Deli 层 (5863 8112) RMB118. Sun/Sat 11.30-2pm, dim sum, > 57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳 4-7pm cocktails and house wine RMB25 lobster and unlimited beer, RMB168. 区幸福村中路57号楼利世楼 (6416 2683) and beer RMB15. Transit > 26A Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄 > S10-31, 3/F, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Taikooli Daily 6pm-7:30pm, two-for-one. 云路甲26号北京海航大厦万豪酒店(5927 Blue Frog South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 > N4-36, Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 8888) Daily 4-8pm, buy-one-get-one-free all 三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区8号楼S10- Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 drinks. 31 (6415 7207) 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) Vivid > Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, Daily, 6pm-10pm, two-for-one drinks. S2 Tower, S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Mosaic Isola > Vivid, Level 5, Conrad Beijing, 29 North Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路太 4-8pm daily happy hour. 11:30am-3pm. Lunch for RMB138. Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St 3-6pm Fashion high tea 三环北路29号北京康莱德酒店5层 (6584 branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), 5-8pm Happy hour, two-for-one on 6310) www.bluefrog.com.cn for details) Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32号楼临街店 selected drinks (137 1883 7065) 6-10:30 Dinner set menu, 2-course Transit Centro RMB238, 3-course RMB258. Daily 12pm-2.30pm. Choice of Daily 5-8pm, two-for-one deals. Mosto > N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, appetizers, mains, rice or noodles with > Shangri-la’s Kerry Centre Hotel Beijing, 6-7pm discounts on cocktails, wine and Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里 dessert for RMB88. 1/F, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光 beer. 北区N3-37和 47商铺 (6416 3499) > N4-36/37 Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 华路1号香格里拉北京嘉里中心大酒店1层 > 3/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 (6561 8833 ext. 42) Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花 Bene Restaurant 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) 园3层 (5208 6030) Daily 11.30am-2pm. RMB98 includes Feast (Food by East) antipasto with main course, pizza or pasta. Factory (By Salt) Works for dinner, 2 course RMB168+15% NOLA > Sheraton Dongcheng, 36 Beisanhuan Until Sep 30 order summer BBQ with a glass of wine or soft drinks. 3-8pm. Sun-Thu, half price on Pabst Donglu, Dongcheng 东城区北三环东路36 catering, from RMB150pp > 5.30-10.30pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Blue Ribbon, Tsingtao and all cocktails 号 (5798 8888) > Factory A1 North, 797 Middle Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 including daiquiris. 798 Art Zone A, Chaoyang 朝阳区 9820) > A-11 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai Cafe Sambal 798艺术区A区七九七中街01#商务楼北楼 Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街秀水 Nasi Campur Malaysian set: two meats 一层1号 (010 5762-6451) and vegetables each, varying daily. With

Weekend

saturday Dom Perignon for RMB1988 for two. Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet One East > Ritz-Carlton Beijing Financial Street, with free-flow champagne for RMB458 Either organic tenderloin steak (200g), Great Leap Brewing Jinchengfang Dong, 1 Jinrong Jie, plus 15 percent service charge. organic rib-eye (220g) or angus sirloin All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select Xicheng 西城区金城坊东金融街1号 (6601 > Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8 (220g) plus veg or fries incl. a pint of beer at RMB25. 6666) Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng 东城区 beer for RMB270/person 6-10:30pm >At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for 王府井东街8号(5812 8888 ext. 8411) 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, details) Senses and Prego North Dong Sanhuan, Chaoyang Sun 11.30am-3pm, Retrolicious Champagne 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿 R Lounge Brunch, international and Asian specialties saturday to sunday 酒店2层 5865 5030 Selection of drinks for free all night. with free flow champagne, wines, cocktails Agua > 61 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang and juices for RMB 458. Prices subject to 15 Sat-Sun, Agua’s Infinity Weekend Brunch Eudora Station 朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店 percent service. is RMB298 for infinite food, plus RMB168 Sat-Sun 10am-3pm, breakfast buffet with 4层 (5863 8241) > The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B for free flow drinks. one main and free flow juice or coffee Financial Street, Xicheng 西城区金融大街 > 12-2:30pm (free flow until 3pm), for RMB98. sunday 乙9号(6629 7810) Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, > Opposite Lido Palace, 6 Fangyuan Xi Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花 Lu. Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园西路6号(6437 Great Leap Brewing Seasonal Tastes 园4楼D308号 (5208 6188) 8331) All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select Sun 11.30am-3pm Unlimited buffet for beer at RMB25. RMB428-498 per person plus 15 percent Aroma Mosaic >At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for surcharge. Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, international Sat-Sun 11.30am-4pm, Middle-Eastern details) > Westin Chaoyang, 7 North buffet starting at RMB518 plus 15 style brunch in Sanlitun. Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东 percent service charge. > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St The Village Cafe 三环北路7号(5922 8880) > Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jianguo Lu, (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Sun 3:30pm-sold out. Sunday roast China Central Place, Chaoyang 朝阳区建 Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32号楼临街店 RMB98 (+15%; 50% off for kids under Sureño 国路83甲(5908 8161) (137 1883 7065) 12) RMB228 for 2 courses, RMB328 for 3 > The Opposite House, Building 1, No. 11 courses. Supplement RMB150 for free Café Sambal Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 flow cocktails; supplement RMB200 for Sat-Sun, RMB98, Café Sambal is rolling Sui Yuan 11 号院 1 号楼瑜舍酒店 free flow Champaign (all prices subject out weekend brunch. Three courses plus Sat-Sun and public holidays 10.30am- to 15% service charge) coffee, tea or fruit punch. 2.30pm, unlimited dim sum for RMB128 Qi > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 > 43 Doufuchi Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie, plus 15 percent surcharge. Sun 11.30am-2pm, all-you-can-eat dim Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同 > Hilton Double Tree, 168 Guang’anmen sum including one double-boiled soup 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5240) 43号 (6400 4875) Waidajie, Xicheng 西城区广安门外大街 for RMB288 per person. Add a bottle of Vasco’s 168号 (6338 1999 ext. 1726)

www.thatsmags.com | march 2015 | 69 Expensive...... ¥ Expense Account ...... ¥¥ Highly Recommended ...... * listings Top Ten ...... ** Dong guarantees slick cuts of Beijing-style OPEN DOOR restaurant roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum sauce is The Hot One Hundred hard to follow. About This guide represents our editors’ > Daily 11am-10pm; 22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十条甲22号 (5169 0328); see www.dadon- top 100 picks, and includes some That’s gdadong.com for more locations Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our Duck de Chine 全鸭季 ¥ * experts, and scored according to the Good duck is meant to show your guests cuisine, experience and affordability. how wonderful you are, as much as the food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, with fantastic presentation of its crispy, CHINESE succulent duck (RMB188). > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm; Courtyard 4, Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine 1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881) > 98 Jinbao Jie, 8 Qi Nian 祈年8号 (Cantonese/Sichuan) Dongcheng 东城区金宝街98号 (6521 2221) The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance, Shanghai as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal soups. (Their decent wine list is just as Shanghai Min 小南国 effective.) Many swear this chain has the best > Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the 12-2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8 Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界 remains. 酒店2层 (5960 8822) > 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士 Bellagio 鹿港小镇 (Taiwanese) 购物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777)> Additional A favorite among the city’s hip and young, branches in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental this swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is Plaza; Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www. the place for mountainous shaved ice des- online.thatsmags.com for details) serts and creamy bubble teas. Wang Jia Sha 王家沙 > 11am-11pm; 6 Gongti Xilu Chaoyang 工体西路6 号 (6551 3533) see www.bellagiocafe.com.cn for Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with more locations Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crab- meat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs Din Tai Fung 鼎泰丰 ¥ (Taiwanese) (RMB62) for a bit of Adam action. This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken > Daily, S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun (on the third floor Hom enough to call it one of the best 10 of i.t shop) 朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层 eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous S1-30a号商铺 (6416 3469) for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s Sichuan/Hunan always a long wait. Chuan Ban 川办 * > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm, weekends 11.30am-10pm; 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, This bright, modestly decorated dining hall Chaoyang 朝阳区新源西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan (6462 4502) > Additional branches in Shin Kong restaurant. Place; Parkview Green; Grand Pacific Mall Xidan; > Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; Sat- Modern Plaza Zhongguancun; see www.dintaifung. Sun 7am-10pm; 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei com.cn for details Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号 (6512 2277, ext. 6101) The Horizon 海天阁 (Cantonese Beijing Duck) ** Karaiya Spice House 辣屋 * Kerry Hotel’s Chinese restaurant has Bold and fiery Hunan cuisine in the most widened its predominantly Cantonese serene of restaurant interiors. Don’t miss and Sichuan horizons to include dim sum, the dry roasted duck with a dozen spices double-boiled soups and Peking duck – and and stir fried bullfrog with shiso leaves and the roast bird here really is fabulous. ginger. Peanut milk is there to soothe the > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing palate: you’ll need it. Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路 > Daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; 3/F, Sanlitun 1号嘉里中心1层 (8565 2188) Taikoo Li South, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里19号院南区三层S9-30 (6415 3535) Jing Yaa Tang 京雅堂 (Chinese, Peking Duck) South Memory 望湘园 Resembling something between a night- This restaurant chain is the Hunan staple club and a theater, the Opposite House’s in the capital. The trademark shilixiang basement restaurant proves to be more niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse than just style over substance with their yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and range of expertly prepared classic dishes. meltingly tender frog dishes are among the

photo by noe m i cassanelli by photo > Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, favorites with locals. Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号 > Daily 11am-10pm; 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian Plaza, 18 楼瑜舍酒B1楼 (6410 5230) Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街 18号丰联广场2楼230-232号 (6588 1797); see www. c pearl Wu Li Xiang 屋里香 (Cantonese, Sichuan) southmemory.com for more locations * Yuxiang Renjia 渝乡人家 Coming Out of its Shell Impressive views don’t detract from the The menu here is old-fashioned and exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam, reliably good. The lazi ji is crispy but not especially the dim sum. Swanky classics too greasy, the pepper-sauce noodle, with The opening of a certain craft beer pub on Xinyuan Jie, near Sanyuanli market, from all the main culinary regions of China, spinach, is filling and refreshing. Assorted including, of course, “Monk Jump Over the might be encouraging more foot traffic to that area – but in C Pearl we’ve confections are guaranteed to comfort Wall” – braised pork in oyster sauce. numbed-and-burned tongues, too. > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm; 2-3/F, Traders Upper had a good reason for regular visits: arguably the best oysters in Beijing and > Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha (Union East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 almost certainly the best selection, with shells from almost 10 countries im- 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三层区朝阳门外大街20号联合大厦五层 (6588 3841) see (5907 8406) ported fresh daily. The high price (to be expected with hard-to-source shells), www.yuxiangrenjia.com for other locations might dissuade casual diners so how about the following weekly deals for you Yipin 一品 (Huaiyang) * hard-up shuckers out there? Every day in March you can buy 500g of lobster The Sofitel Beijing’s boutique Chinese res- Yu Xin 渝信川菜 Open since 1993, Yu Xin’s authentic Sichuan (RMB398) and get 500g free, on top of buy-two-get-one-free oysters, New taurant, Yipin is a beautifully thought-out conflux of all that is elegant, traditional and dishes have earned a loyal fanbase. Their Zealand scampi and Spanish red prawns; every Wednesday oyster happy hour tasty. Huaiyang cuisine headlines the menu, liangfen – a jelly-like substance cut into gets you 12 shells from three-four countries for RMB218 (over half-price off); so expect sweet and delicate and sweet chunky strips and dressed in an addictive flavors with impeccable presentation. spicy sauce – hits the spot. The rustic, inti- Thursdays is mussel fever, a plate of mussels for RMB88, cooked one of five > Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 mate setting of bamboo cubicles and swift, ways; and if you visit on Friday through Sunday, there’s a free oyster for every Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C friendly service complete the experience. 座索菲特酒店 (8599 6666) > Daily 11am-10pm; 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, Chaoyang diner. So if you sit on the seafood fence, a dinner at C Pearl might swing your 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号 see www.yuxin1997.com opinion. As well as the seafood, a fine menu of contemporary western cuisine Peking Duck for other locations. fleshes it all out – it’s up there with any smart-dining option in the city. Da Dong 大董 Transit 渡金湖 ¥¥ ** > Tue-Sun 5.30pm-2am; C Pearl (see Listings for details) Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and its equally hot girls. While the latter are up

70 | March 2015 | www.thatsmags.com listings to you, the creative minds at Transit have Asian influences are evident throughout, made some fiery additions to the classical, with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes OPEN DOOR chili-thumping canon, and they will charge livening up traditional Chinese favorites. you for that knowledge. But unlike many > Daily 10am-11:30pm; 16 Dongsi Liutiao, equally expensive joints, this is high-end Dongcheng 东四六条16号 (6400-5281) Chinese dining at its best. > Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm; N4-36, Sanlitun Taikoo Li Da Gui (Guizhou) North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nes- 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) tled into a charming traditional alleyway. Munch happily into pickled greens and Yunnan don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black sesame balls. They’re sensational. Dali Courtyard 大里院子 * > Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm; 69 Daxing Hutong, If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng 东城区交道口大兴胡同69 have to trust the staff: there’s no menu, it 号 (6407 1800) all just arrives in an intimate courtyard setting. The price (RMB120/person) matches Makye Ame (Tibetan) the rustic ingredients. Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine > Daily 12-2pm, 6-10.30pm; Gulou Dong Dajie, 67 consists of more than just yak-butter tea, Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大 the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain 街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430) serves up nomadic classics such as curried potatoes and roast lamb. Hani Gejiu 哈尼个旧 ¥ > Daily 10-midnight; 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Somthing about Gulou makes it the perfect Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街 district for Yunnan food, and this little gem 甲11号 (6506 9616) is up their with the best. Contender for friendliest service in town. ShiChengJi Shaobing 实诚吉烧饼 > Mon-Sat 11am-10pm; 46 Zhonglouwan Hutong, If ever a food were able to alleviate life’s Dongcheng 东城区钟楼弯胡同46号 (6401 3318) difficulties – however temporarily – then this is surely it. In one bite, these beef shao- Lost Heaven 花马天堂 (Yunnan, SE Asian) bing will remind you exactly why you first An emphasis on Yunnan characterizes this chose to live in Beijing. They’re that good. menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia Queues of locals are testament. passage, with a grandiose yet dark teak > Daily 7am-7pm; 43 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng 东 interior. 城区东四六条43号 (186 1029 5038) > Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am). Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) * 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698) One of Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang lA PIZZA restaurant, Red Rose serves some of the Middle 8th Restaurant 中八楼 * tenderest lamb skewers around, matched Hip and slightly swanky, without being pre- by enormous servings of classics like da- Perfect for Sharing tentious, this is a celebration of all things panji (a chicken, potato and pepper stew), ‘south of the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried latiaozi (noodles with a spicy tomato sauce) worms, or “crossing-the-bridge” noodles, and nang (baked flatbrea). Pizza is deceptively simple. So simple, in fact that just about every restaurant beef jerky-style yak meat and fresh, wild > Daily 10.30am-11pm; Inside 7 Xingfuyicun, oppo- in Beijing is now trying their hand at it. None though, come close to reigning herbs galore. site Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区 pizza kings, La Pizza. But the undisputed champions of Italian-style pizza didn’t > The Place Branch: Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South 工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内 (6415 5741) Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝 get where they are today by resting on their laurels. No sir! Alongside the pizza 阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 1431) > WESTERN and the pasta, the successful chain are now offering several new delicious dish- Additional venues in Sanlitun; Taikoo Li Mall; Indigo Mall (see www.middle8th.com for details) Fine Dining es, including affettati misti with buffalo mozzarella (RMB158 for 125g, RMB238 for 250g of mozzarella) and affettati misti with burrata (RMB180 for 250g of Yun’er Small Town 云洱小镇 Aria ¥¥ (European) * Folksy and affordable Yunnanese fare on A gold standard of opulence and, at burrata) – delicious plates of prosciutto, pancetta and salami, with two differ- Beiluoguxiang. Fragrant dishes including RMB1,100 for the Wagyu beef and starters ent choices of quality imported Italian cheeses. Perfect for sharing with friends the jasmine bulbs with scrambled eggs, around RMB150, the prices reflect that. on a night out (just like pizza). lemongrass shrimp, and banana leaf In-house sommeliers help tailor your meal wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us perfectly. > Available at La Pizza, Solana Mall, (see Listings for details) crawling back. > Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun > Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 6-10pm; 2/F China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407) Waidajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街 (6505 2266 ext. 36) Dumplings Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) * Baoyuan Jiaoziwu 宝源饺子屋 Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not Famous for their rainbow of dyed dump- here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, lings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao Piedmont wine it is named after. silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian > Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton options and authentic Sichuan food. Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思卡尔顿 > Daily 11am-10pm; north of 6 Maizidian Jie, 酒店内 (5908 8151) Chaoyang 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 4967)

Mr Shi’s Dumplings 老石饺子馆 Brasserie Flo ¥¥ (French) * Since recieving a Lonely Planet recommen- Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; dation the prices have risen and the walls dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 are covered in backpackers’ scribbles, but each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm. the fantastic dumplings – boiled and fried – The grandeur is matched only by the ser- are still fantastic. > 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, vice, and the prices reflect the authenticity Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 (8405 of the experience. 0399, 131 6100 3826) > Daily 11am-midnight; 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135) Hot Pot Brian McKenna @The Courtyard ¥¥ (Con- Ding Ding Xiang 鼎鼎香 * temporary Western) * Classier than most hotpot joints, Ding Ding Innovative and creative dishes are de rigeur Xiang features a spacious dining room of at the Michelin-starred Irish chef’s reinven- sweaty-faced patrons enjoying high-grade tion of this long-standing Beijing fine Yipin, Sofitel Wanda Beijing huoguo in their own individual pot. The de- dining institution. licious sesame sauce (the recipe is a closely > Daily, restaurant 6pm-10pm, bar 5-11pm; 95 guarded secret) is a Beijing classic. Donghuamen Avenue, Dongcheng 东城区东华门大街95号 (6526 8883) Chinese Cuisine, French Flair > Daily 11am-10pm; 2/F, Yuanjia International Apartments, Dongzhimenwai, Dongzhong Jie (opposite East Gate Plaza), Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东 Capital M ¥ (Contemporary Western) ** Yipin does a fine job of balancing archetypal high-end Chinese cuisine with an The Art Deco interior, swish staff and 中街东环广场对面元嘉国际公寓2层 (6417 9289, see atmosphere that is welcoming to those unfamiliar with its brand of huai yang www.dingdingxiang.com.cn for other locations) breathtaking views over the archery towers from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of cuisine. Classic dishes such as lion’s head (steamed meat ball in a clear soup, Haidilao 海底捞火锅 * al-fresco dining, with world-class modern RMB 78) make an appearance from a renowned head chef personally chosen Hotpot in China is like religion; everyone’s European stylings and deliciously posh got their own brand. Either way, the raw afternoon tea. by the head of Wanda group himself. Instead of going of for a palatial banquet meats and vegetables, cooked communally, > Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen hall setting, small tables creating a more intimate and convivial atmosphere. Buxingjie, Dongcheng 东城区前门步行街2号3层 is divine, and the outstanding customer The huai yang food forgoes the big savory and spicy flavors common with say, service makes Haidilao a fitting church (6702 2727) > Daily, 24 hrs; 2A Baijiazhuang Lu (beside No. 80 Beijing or Sichuan style food, and focuses on bringing out the flavor of core Héritage ¥¥ Middle School), Chaoyang 朝阳区白家庄路甲2号 ( ingredients with minimal enhancements. For something out of the ordinary try 八十中学西侧) (6595 2982, see http:www.haidilao- A French country-style chateau in the huoguo.com for other locations) heart of Beijing. A chef de cuisine with the braised shredded tofu with crab meat and ham (RMB198), stir fried shred- Michelin star restaurant experience and an ded eel with sesame oil (RMB138) and the marinated jelly fish in aged vinegar Regional extensive wine cellar make this Sofitel Hotel restaurant one of the best French dining (RMB128). For the crowd pleaser, don’t miss the crystal shelled fresh shrimps Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) * experiences in town. (RMB198), complete with dry-ice style effect on the tea set it’s served from. Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, > All prices are subject to 15 percent service; daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm; moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广 restaurant. Eastern European and Central 场C座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666) (see Listings for details)

www.thatsmags.com | March 2015 | 71 listings

Mio ¥¥ wooden bar and enjoying an Irish rock with With ingredients supplied by local organic The Woods * Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with a craft beer. farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an New York native-owned, Manhattan-style a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight > Tue-Sun 11am-11pm, 22-1 Dongzhimen emphasis on sustainability, this café’s wide restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrap- to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街22-1号 (6416 ranging menu has something for everyone, ers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple a superb squash tortellini by hand, and 5499) especially green types, bored foreign moms than that. pampers diners with desserts like the and freelance Macbook types. > Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101, deconstructed tiramisu. Stuff’d (Contemporary Western) > Mon-Fri 7.30am-10:30pm, Sat/Sun 9:30am- No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号 >Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff 10:30pm; Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang 新城国际1号搂101 (6533 6380) -10:30pm Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, one kind of food in another. From sausage Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang Park South Chaoyang, 北京四季酒店亮马桥路48号, 朝阳区 calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it Gate), Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4 Burgers (5695 8888) all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus. 号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) (8550 2722) > Additional > Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online.thatsmags. Blue Frog S.T.A.Y. ¥¥ (French) Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区箭厂胡同9号 (6407 6308) com for details) This Shanghai hamburger franchise has Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred been keeping Americans in China obese chef, Alléno Yannick’s, back-to-basics VIC Vineyard Cafe on the River (British) since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is kitchen concept, which includes a mouth- Not to be confused with the notorious New Vineyard offshoot opposite of the Li- always packed. watering ‘pastry library’. Classic dishes nightclub of the same name, this VIC is angma River. Menu features British classics > Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S2 Tower, usually include dishes such as steak, foie the Sofitel Beijing’s casual dining restau- like fish & chips and bangers & mash. The S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯 gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and grill rant. All the major world cuisines are in breezy terrace is primed for a pint of the 路太古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional branches for international standard fine-dining. attendance here – make you pay special handcraft beer or a carafe of Pimms. in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see online.thatsmags. > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; Sundays attentions to the French-inspired breads >Daily Tue-Fri 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-12am (kitchen com for details) 11am- 4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, Level 1, 29 and pastries – as is the customary Sunday closes at 10pm), Sat/Sun 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-12am; Zizhuyuan Road, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路29号北京香 champagne brunch. Liangmahe Nan Lu, west side of Xindong Lu, Burger Bar 格里拉饭店 (6841 2211, Ext. 6727) > Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马河南路新东路西侧渔阳饭店对 Don’t be fooled by the American diner-style Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C 面 (8532 5335) interior, Burger Bar’s pedigree of bap Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥¥ 座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666) fillings include wagyu beef, foie gras and TRIBE * (Contemporary Western) ** truffles. Burger King this ain’t. Induction to this Tribe appears to involve Setting is everything here, especially if Yi House (Contemporary Western) > Sun-Thu 11:30am-10pm, Fri/Sat 11:30am-mid- spending somewhere in the region of it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist Nestled in the confines of 798, Yi’s great night, B2/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Road RMB100 on a kale salad and a freshly temple. The bold contemporary European tasting brunch is bettered only by their Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦地下二 pressed juice, while basking in the warm, 层 ( 5690 7000) cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service wide range of cocktails. Sundays offer jazz brunches with lobster and champagne. conceited glow that comes from knowing alone is worthy of worship. Chef Too ¥ > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10pm; 23 Songzhusi > Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am; 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 that you are Eating Well. Salads, wraps and Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng 东城区沙滩北街嵩 Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥 sandwiches, and noodle and grain bowls With its crisp white tablecloths and service, 祝寺23号 (8400 2232) 路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818) are as tasty as they are holistic. this upscale New York diner serves up some > Daily 8am-10.30pm, 1/F, Building 3, China View of the classiest burgers in town. Contemporary Western Café/Deli/Sandwich Plaza, 2A Gongti Dong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 > Tue-Fri 11am-1pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-3pm; Tue-Sat 体东路甲2号中国红街大厦3号楼1层大厅入口南侧 5.30pm-10pm. Opposite the West gate, Chaoyang Alfie’s ¥ (British) Beiluo Bread Bar (Café) 8587 1899 Park, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6591 8676) What’s all this about, then? British gastro- This local hipster café favorite offers in- Wagas (Contemporary Western) pub classics, (like pukker fish and chips, house baked bread and sandwiches but Steak Quality eats with minimal pretension. This RMB188), a swanky gentleman’s club we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles. stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element 29 Grill (Contemporary Western) * interior, and located in a chic modern art Gets cozy at night. Fresh offers some of the best and most Top-notch steak, along with just about eve- gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, mate. > Tue-Sun 12-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng affordable Western lunch options in town. ry other cut of meat found in the barnyard > Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近南锣鼓巷)(8408 3069) on weekends; Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca. > Mon-Fri lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Mon-Sat dinner: Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22 (5662 Café Zarah (Café) * crowd pleaser. 6-10.30pm (closed Sundays); Conrad Beijing, 2/F, 29 8777) A smart new interior and menu for this > Daily 8am-10pm; S8-33, 3/F, Bldg 8, Taikoo Li longstanding cafe has propelled it from South, 19 South Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区三 North Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路9 号层 Caribeño (Latin) hipster hangout to Gulou institution. Large, 里屯太古里南区三层 (6416-5829) > Additional loca- 2 (6584 6270)) Heavy Cuban influence, but there are dishes airy and with a terrace for summer, the only tions in The Kerry Centre, Raffles Mall Dongzhimen (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details) Morton’s of Chicago (American) ¥¥ * downside is it’s always packed. from all over the Latin continent here. The Meat so tender the knife falls through it: Ropa Vieja (shredded beef on potato) is > Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 9807) American/BBQ/Grill ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide excellent – as are the Mojitos. praise. Expensive, but where else are you > Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza, The Big Smoke * 8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号中 Element Fresh (Contemporary Western) going to get steak this good? (Try the 海广场北楼1层 (5977 2789) Another import from Shanggers, this is Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash) boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching, upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full > Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm, Sun 5-10:30pm; 2/F, Regent Chi (Organic, Fusion) with somewhat questionable price tags. menu evenings only (also delivers rotisserie Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街99号丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777) Hutong set-menu dining par-excellence, > Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm. chicken via Uncle Otis). with organic ingredients all locally sourced. 833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Sanlitun > Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm. Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar (Contem- From the owners of neighboring Saffron. 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村 > Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 8号楼833 (6417 1318) porary Western) ¥¥ * 中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268, www. Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at uncle-otis.com) 67号 (6445 7076) this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled MODO Urban Deli (Contemporary cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus Western) * Home Plate BBQ * C Pearl (Oysters, Seafood) ¥ * start from around RMB428 and merrily Yates Wine Lodge this is not. Unconven- Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the This slick oyster restaurant imports fresh spiral. But the meat is unquestionably suc- tional and great fun, this compact eatery popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker shells from Canada, South Africa, France, culent, and cooked exactly to order. was designed around an ever-changing se- barbecue joint, that blossoms in the USA and more – and they are well worth > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. InterContinen- lection of fine wines. Serves up fresh tapas sunny months. Pulled-pork sandwiches the price. The fries are the best we’ve had tal Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西 style food and original finger foods. are the favorites, followed by baby-back in Beijing, beer and wine selection also 城区金融街11号北京金融街洲际酒店 (5852 5921) > Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm; 3/F, rib racks. Beer and bourbons are taken excellent. Sanlitun Taikoo Li South (close to Element Fresh), 19 care of, too. > Tue-Sun 5.30pm-2am; 14-2, Bldg 14, Shunyuanli, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太 > Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard Flamme (Contemporary Western) Xinyuan Jie, Yansha Qiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区燕莎桥新古里南区3楼(近新元素) (6415 7207) (20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing. 源街顺源里14号楼14-2号 (5724 5886) Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路 Flamme (pronounced ‘Flame,’ apparently) MOKA Bros (Contemporary Western) * 路口,往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584) remains top value, however, especially on Grill 79 (Steak) Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online. 2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an With views this good, Grill 79 would prob- of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio thatsmags.com for details) eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail ably make it onto the list even if the food space, which also has a great selection of menu. was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more NOLA > Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm Fri- that the kitchen is superb, and supported indulgent. N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the Sat. S4-33, Third Floor, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 by one of the most extensive wine lists in Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太 > Sanlitun: Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am- leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, 古里南区3层S4-33室 (6417 8608) > 269 Indigo Mall, town. 11:30pm, B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken, Jixianqiao Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤 > Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101B南楼 (5208 jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys – 港商场269号 (8420 0270) China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai 6079) > Solana: Solana Lakeside Dining Street, 6 yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸大酒店 Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区湖畔美食街 and cocktail also make NOLA a popular 79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424) O’Steak 朝阳公园路6号院蓝色港湾 (5905 6259) watering hole. > Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that Missa (European) Nasca Café Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水南街11号 rare anymore, and here we have affordable Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of Colorful and quirky shopping mall style (8563 6215) but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the meat or the long list of expertly made and café, with Amazonian coffee, teas and Irish sounding name, it’s an authentic Tim’s Texas BBQ * creative cocktails going down your gullet, there’s a decent range of sandwiches and French bistro – not a Guinness in sight. Who is Tim, you ask, and what’s his Texas you can’t really go wrong at this refined pizzas, available for delivery. > Daily midday-midnight, 55-7 Xingfucun Zhonglu, BBQ doing in Beijing? Providing ya’ll home- relaxed lounge like restaurant. > Daily 11am-10pm, B1/F, City Mall, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路55-7 (8488 8250) > Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun Taikoo Chaoyang 朝阳区新源南路1号都汇天地购物中心B1 sick ‘Murricans with the best damn home- Li North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里北区3号楼3 楼 (6592 4537) > Additional branches in Sanlitun style briskets, ribs and steaks – slow-cooked Mexican/Tex Mex 层32-33 (137 1851 7917) South; Volkswagen Building, Liangmahe (see online. over a mesquite wood BBQ – this side of the Rio Grande. Tex Mex and Margherita’s Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex) Mosto (European, South American) ¥ * thatsmags.com for details) recommended. Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+ A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot, > Daily 9am-midnight; Silk#2 Building, 14 imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for Ricci Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水 walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a modernising South American-style dishes Named after a 17th century Italian Jesuit 2号院 (6591 9161) bite of the custardy flan. like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen. (duh), this creative café has a funky, kooky- >Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, > Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon- meets-organic vibe and serves up some of Union Bar and Grill S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Taikoo Li, 19 Sanlitun 2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, the best casual western food in town, and The definitive US-style diner in Beijing, Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里太古里南区 Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 a great brunch at the Wudaokou location Union’s extensive menu – from eggs (6416 5212) 6030) (Chaoyang branch closed weekends). > Chaoyang: Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat/Sun closed; Benedict to baby back ribs – covers all El Gran Bocado (Mexican) Starfish (Seafood) ¥ * F1-109, 1/F, Borui Dasha, 26 Dongsanhuan Beilu, bases and hours, served by friendly staff. This unassuming little taquiera has a color- Starfish is among the very best seafood Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路甲26号博瑞大厦 F1-109 The warm atmosphere tempts many to ful menu of classic Mexican and Tex Mex restaurants in town. Renowned for its (6516 7588) > Additional location in Wudaokou (see stay all day. > Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat/Sun 11am-midnight; S6- dishes, and one of the best nacho plates friendly, warm atmosphere, this stylish online.thatsmags.com for details) 31, 3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun we’ve had in Beijing. low-key restaurant is great for late-night Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 > Daily 11am-midnight, 1/F, Just Make Bldg, dates, or just hanging out along the large The Rug (Contemporary Western, Organic) * 6号楼3层S6-31 (6415 9117) Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyanf 朝阳区幸福村中路杰作

72 | March 2015 | www.thatsmags.com listings

大厦1层 (6416 1715) Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza Biteapitta * homesick Indian community, this ever quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel) popular no-nonsense restaurant has built Taco Bar be the biggest in town. and 58 kuai kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta up a solid reputation thanks to its wide Rising from the ashes of its deceased > Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun has the Middle-East mid-range market all range of quality dishes and particularly hutong location, the new Taco Bar is hip, 10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, wrapped up in a fluffy pitta. friendly service. Looking good after a popular and able to produce some of the Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 > Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli Studio, recent rennovation and very available on most authentic Mexican fare in town. Only Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 三里屯北街33号3.3服装 Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯后街同里2 JinShiSong online delivery. RMB45 for three and great cocktails to 大厦3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 177) 层 (6467 2961) > Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun complement. > Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号2楼 > Tue-Thu 5.30pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-2.30am, Sun Yayancun, Solana and Weigongcun, see www.on- Cuju Moroccan Bistrot & Rummery * (6462 7255) 11am-1am; 1/F, Unit 10, Electrical Research Institute, line.thatsmags.com for details) CuJu used to be a cozy little hutong sports Sanlitun Nan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南路机电研 bar with an incredible rum selection, but Raj 究院内10号1层 (6501 6026) La Pizza now it’s a cozy little Moroccan bistrot and Tucked away in musty old building just un- Among the upper echelons of Beijing rummery – so it still has an awesome rum derneath the drum tower, this curryhouse Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar * (Korean- pizzerias is this Sanlitun goldfish bowl selection. Badr’s Moroccan food might be may look Chinese but everything on the Mexican fusion) with a wood-fired oven and Neapolitan the best in town. menu is authentic Indian, espcially the manners. Further branches in Solana and > 28 Xiguan Hutong, off Dongsibeidajie, Dongcheng rather fine naan. pasta/salad/mains-buffet restaurant in 东城区细管胡同28号东四北大街 (6407 9782) > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie Sanlitun 3.3 Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (6401 1675) > Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 1/F, Mosaic Restaurant & Bar 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 Promising “the best shawarmas and South-East Asian 33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582) > Solana shishas in town”, Mosaic restaurant & bar Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Chaoyang Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya) Park Road, Choayang 朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港 offers a range of great value delicacies and 湾3号1层, SA-48 ( 5905 6106) > SOHU Shangdu cocktails, served up in a cozy setting with This chain specializes in Nyonya style cook- Branch: SH1112, SOHO Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, a friendly and personalized service. One ing – ostensibly Malaysian but with a mix Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路8号SOHO尚都 of few places in Beijing to offer genuine of Chinese, South-East Asian and European SH1112号(5900 3112) > La Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun Arabic shishas (hookah), Mosaic is a hidden influences resulting in lots of bold flavors 3.3 Mall, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯3.3服装大厦4层 Sanlitun gem. and bright colors. (5136 5990) > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North > CBD: EB105, B1/F, China World Mall Phase of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32 1, 1 Jianguomen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门 Spanish 号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065) 外大街1号国贸商城一期地下一层EB105 (6505 0376) > Taiyanggong: Unit 10-11, 4/F, CapitaMall Agua ¥ * Rumi (Middle Eastern Taiyanggong, Chaoyang 朝阳区凯德Mall太阳宫4层 Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish 10/11号 (8415 0863) www.nyonyakitchen.com invasion, Agua excels with reasonably priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo Malacca Legend Tucked away near Gulou, this hip little and jamon. Winner of the 2014 Golden hutong concept is truly one of a kind in Fork Editors’ Pick for best restaurant. Beijing. Quesadillas with kimchi and bibim- > Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 baps with melted cheese and hot sauce. Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花 Guess what? It works. Killer range of classic 园 (5208 6188) Cali’ cocktails, too. > Daily 11:30am-midnight (closed Mondays) 14 Migas ¥ * Zhangwang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街 The boys at Migas have turned a concept 张旺胡同14号 (6405 4352) bar into a thriving Mediterranean restaurant, bar and party venue, and one of Italian summer’s rooftop destinations. > Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Assaggi ¥ * Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy 6层 (5208 6061) ) district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth a return visit. Niajo ¥ * Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful help- Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454 ings of traditional Persian stews and tasty 4508) kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish kebab, Malaysian food with a view, this spacious Bene ¥ * the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r. and airy restaurant sits on the banks of Shu- Chef Ricci will have you singing like a sopra- > Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third Ring nyi’s Roma Lake, making a great spot for Road, Chaoyang 工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面 their beef rendang or green curry prawns. no with his pork ravioli and prize-winning (8454 3838) tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and > Daily 11am-10pm; 6 Luodong Road, Luogezhuang extensive wine selection. Village, Houshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪镇罗 Pinotage ¥ (South African) * 各庄村罗各东路6号 (8049 8902, www.malaccaleg- > Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton A seasonal blend of Dutch, English and end.com) Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, regional African influences, this contem- Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 8995) porary and stylish eatery has an impressive Cafe Sambal (Malaysian) selection of fine import-quality meats, and When it comes to Malay-style food in a Cepe ¥ wines to match. The traditional borewor hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, In a city inundated with Italian offerings, ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is tender it’s something of a niche category, but then Cepe manages to stand out thanks to its and sweet, while the red-wine pork ten- so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitan- attention to the smallest detail – everything derloin makes the trip out to their Shunyi style chicken is pricey, but worth it. from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham is branch worth it. > Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just import quality, and the wine is superb. With homely Mediterranean influences and > Dongmen Building, 12 Dongzhimen Wai, east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng 西城区豆腐池胡同43 Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街12号东门下楼 (5785 号旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875) > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The Ritz- a charming management, Niajo is prime 3538) > Additional location in Shunyi (see online. Carlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, Sanlitun smart-casual dining. Order the thatsmags.com for details) Flor de Loto Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街 paella (their star dish) together with some 丽思卡顿酒店大堂 (6601 6666) Sleek and chic Vietnamese restaurant – tapas and be automatically transported to Asian always draws a crowd. DIY fresh spring Spain (minus the constant sunshine). Isola Bar & Grill rolls are a highlight. Worth the ride to > Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Indian Korea-town. Isola’s elegant design, even by Taikoo Li Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 North standards, is classic Italian panache – > Daily 11am-10pm; 201, Europark Bldg A1(Cafe 3层 (5208 6052) Ganges and so is the food. Beef carpaccio, burrata, Bene Building) Guangshun Nandajie, Wangjing, Conveniently located above popular Strozzapreti (handed twisted pasta) are Chaoyang 朝阳区望京园610号楼悠乐汇A座 201室 German Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid (6477 7387) all fantastic, but just as good is a classic Indian curry house provides the perfect Margherita pizza. Drei Kronen 1308 * post-match culinary accompaniment. Or 4Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion) > Daily, 11:30am-10:30pm, N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Authentic (in as much as any brauhaus with put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving The definitive hutong bar/restaurant? Chef Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳 a Filipino cover band can be) displays of ar- 区三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47商铺 (www. after eight pints of beer. Jun Trinh took a break from his celebrity TV mour and brewing kits draw regular even- > Daily 11am to 10.30pm; Dongzhimen Branch: 2nd work to host this part-Vietnamese venue, gaiagroup.com.hk/isola-beijing, reservations@isola- ing crowds for the superb pork knuckle and beijing.com; 6416 3499) Floor, 28 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 serving up steaming bowls of pho with heavy-duty helles (pale lager), wheat and 区东直门外大街28号2层 (6417-0900) > Additional zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar, with dark beer (brewed on-site). Mercante ¥ * branch in Sanlitun, see online.thatsmags.com for frequent live indie performances. > Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti details. > Tue-Sun 11am-2am, 27 Dashibei Hutong (near Old World family charm in an intimate Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5号楼1 hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng 西城区大石碑胡层(6503 5555) Indian Kitchen service) slows with a rustic menu from Bo- 同27号烟袋斜街西口附近) (6401 7797) logna offering an assortment of homemade Paulaner Brauhaus pastas and seasonal mains. Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion) The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses, Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok of- > Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the Dongcheng 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 5098) fering Thai food with a twist and served in hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Taikoo provinces. It can be pricey but is usually Li Sanlitun then. Opera Bombana ¥ worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest. Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three > Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun > Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao Road 19, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号楼 S1-30B Michelin stars to his name, earned at his Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店 wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant (6416 3439)> Additional branch in Shin Kong Place (6465 3388 ext. 5732) (see online.thatsmags.com for details) Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef to do so outside of his native land, and cer- African/Middle Eastern Purple Haze (Thai) tainly the only to have opened a restaurant Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches in Beijing. 1001 Nights and backpacker bars, Purple Haze has to > Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green There’s no missing this beast of a Middle make do for the best Thai experience in Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大 Eastern on the way into Sanlitun. The 桥路9号侨福芳草地地下2层21号 (5690 7177) town. Has all the classics like veggie spring whole Arabic dining package is on offer rolls (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and here, from kebabs, to shisha to belly danc- Pizza curries (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the ing shows between courses. seafood pad Thai (RMB45). > Daily 11am-2am, 3-4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳 Tube Station The go to curry house among Beijing’s > Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang 朝区工体北路3-4号 (6532 4050) 阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899)

www.thatsmags.com | March 2015 | 73 listings

Susu (Vietnamese) Vegetarian Owner Travis is a cocktail aficionado, and 双花园南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613) The first step is finding it. Follow that up the drinks at this establishment change sea- with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, ex- Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian) sonally according to ingredient availability. Ichikura ¥ tensive wine list and a listing of top-notch Like many arrivals to Beijing, this place Light cafe fare is available during the day. One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town, Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, started out in Wudaokou and it’s since > 11am-11pm. 34 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind stews, soups and la Vong fish. made a successful migration to Chaoyang. District 东城区五道营胡同34号 8400 1159 a theater also offers terrific cocktails. > Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm; 10 Qianliang Hutong Great range of veggie fare, reasonably Although less expensive than several rivals, Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 priced and they offer cooking classes as El Nido * you’ll want to indulge. (8400 2699) well. The first hutong hang-out to patent the > Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36 > Daily 10am-10pm 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D, fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环 Japanese Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly 北路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107) Chaoyang 朝阳门外大街乙6朝外SOHOD座2层0260 in summer. The roast leg of mutton place Hatsune ¥ * (California Japanese) (5900 1288) Additional location in Wudaokou (see next door is one of the best locally. The Irish Volunteer As much a California roll joint as true www.online.thatsmags.com for details) > Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng Everything – from the red-faced owner to Japanese, Hatsune is now an old favorite District 东城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089) the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged with among the sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing Veggie Table (Western, Asian) * alcoholism, doggerel and drunken regret. set, though less so among sashimi purists. Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine Enoterra A good place to down a pint and a pizza > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F, Heqiao Bldg is by no means the exclusive preserve of Looking for an affordable glass of wine before heading into town, then. C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路甲8号 Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson with that date? Look no further than Nali > Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido 和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional locations fans, this superbly honed eatery offers Patio’s wine center. Although the food Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台路311 in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall (see some of the very best sandwiches – veg- 号 (6438 5581) www.online.thatsmags.com for details) leaves a bit to be desired, the selections are etarian or otherwise – found anywhere in vast, and if anything, you can enjoy a nice the city. cheese plate with that tart glass of vino. Jane’s & Hooch ¥ * Inagiku * > Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order 10.30pm) 19 Acclaimed by some foreign press as one This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s old- > Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那 of the best bars in the world (cough), this est and most celebrated restaurants is as 19号. (6446 2073) 里花园D405室 (5208 6076) not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard near to perfection as you’re likely to find. of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the First Floor serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB80) is not to bars First Floor is like that friend who’s too Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic be missed. popular to properly enjoy their company. speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive staff > Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm; Rm 315, 3/F, Park Life, At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS and unimpeachable cocktails. 工体北路朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生活3层315室 About This guide represents our regulars and the passing tourist trade all > Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, 4号院 ( 6503 2757) (8517 2838) editors’ top 40 picks, and includes some baying at the bar. A good place to meet new friends, perhaps. That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) Sake Manzo * // Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang Jing-A Taproom ** have been personally reviewed by our District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.floor- In just a few years, these guys developed experts, and scored according to the beijing.com) from shady guerrilla brewers to upstanding cuisine, experience and affordability. publicans with their own range of souvenir Fubar T-shirts. Their bar is a peach: a bricks-and- Slightly past its prime, this basement bar is mortar taproom, which is large, warm and BBC (Bottle, Boot & Cigar) trying to rediscover the speakeasy pretence sociable, and has up to 16 different beers The brainchild of local spirits professional that made the place its name. Live lounge on tap. Douglas Williams, this bar provides the music and a vast amount of pours are start- > Building B, 1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, discerning Beijing drinker with a peerless ing to persuade people it’s succeeding. Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 selection of liquor for sale, cocktails and > 6pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 6pm-4am Friday coming soon, shoe shines, cigars and and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District, Maggie’s ¥ straight-razor shaves. Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工体北路8号工人 A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of > 1pm-late. 1 Taipingzhuang Nanli (At Xingfucun, 体育场东门内 (6593 8227) course, to the hot-dog stand outside), between Frost: Coffee, Nails & Cocktails and Commix Maggie’s has been providing its special Bar), Chaoyang District 朝阳区太平庄南里1号 (1861 Glen ¥ comforts for so long, it’s practically a time- 405 7407, www.bbcbeijing.com) Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve honored Beijing brand – although it’s also a endured poor service and drinks that are bastion of Mongolian culture. 8-Bit scandalous at the price), which is located in > Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan Park Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gam- a decidedly downbeat compound. But whis- South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛公园南 ing – why didn’t anyone do this sooner? ky lovers have been known to swear by its 门 (8562 8142) The barmen here are serious about their Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some selections and dark, intimate atmosphere. sake. Boasting one of the best stocked real gems make up an ever-growing col- See for yourself. Mai Bar * drinks cabinets in town with over 60 dif- lection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable > 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Beijing, Understated hutong hideaway with a long ferent sakes on offer, this super-cool little RMB25 a glass. 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯 list of some of the best cocktails in town. eatery is the perfect place to unwind after > Daily, 1pm-2am, 49 Jiaodaokou Nandajie, 路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191) > Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城 a hard day’s toil. The sashimi is fresh to the Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街49号 (159 区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871) cut, and the beer-marinated chicken is out 1025 6538)) Glen Classic ¥ of this world. One of the very best and least Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel, Mao Mao Chong ** appreciated restaurants in town. The Brick Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their > Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao, A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll bar where discerning drinkers can sink sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorn- Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436 1608) find this neighbourhood drinking hole-in- into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while infused vodka drink that’s a long way from the brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey away the hours. Huge range of whiskies Moscow – are unique infusions using Hyoki ¥ (Japanese) or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails and rums are personally selected by expert local ingredients and know-how. Grungey Hidden away in the depths of the Sofitel (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese restaurant Terminator) are probably needed for the you something special. while still keeping it real. And those pizzas. of all private dining rooms has some bizarre Wednesday pub quiz. > Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng stunning food, and is the only place to > Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31 minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 District 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718, Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao), Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路东草 sample traditional Japanese paper hot pot www.maomaochongbeijing.com) in Beijing. Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院园26号 (6551 6788) 天之骄子2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677) > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo Road, Mesh ¥ Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达北京酒店6 Great Leap Brewing 大跃啤酒 ¥ * Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a 层 (6581 0072) Capital Spirits The bar that began the whole Beijing mi- late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior A team of non-China natives doing a baijiu crobrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes Sushi Yotsuba ** bar? Brave and, luckily, brilliant. Lovely and underground soundtrack draws the in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB25- bright young things (and on LGBT Thurs- It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu hutong setting, friendly owners and great 40) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan RMB1,000), but what would you expect bottle collection. days, quite a few old things, too). peppercorn ale was memorably good. > Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, from some of the best sushi in town? > Tue-Sun 8pm-late; 3 Da Ju Hutong, Dongcheng 东 Reservations used to be recommended Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is a 城区大菊胡同3号 (010 6409 3319; www.capitalspirits. for their original hutong brewhouse, but 6688) cut above. com) the opening of a wildly popular new pub > Dongcheng: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers Parlor Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷 CICADA Ultralounge ¥ there instead. 号 Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before 10 (8400 2699) > Lido branch: 2F, No.9-3, Jiangtai The latest – and perhaps only – ultralounge > Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路9-3号2层 (8420 0998) in Beijing is fast becoming one of Sanlitun’s heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speak- 6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区豆角 easy and you’ll fit right in. trendiest bars. A Shanghai style lounge 胡同6号 (5717 1399) >Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm; > Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区 Korean bar with mixology credentials, the Whisky Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 Sours and Smoky Havana’s are worth the Xinzhong Street 新中街乙12号 ( 6416-6887, www. 新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135) Ai Jiang Shan cost. greatleapbrewing.com) This upscale seafood restaurant proves that > Mon-Sat, 6pm-late, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang Revolution * chargrill and composure can go together. District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 Heaven Supermarket Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute (6418 9898) A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedrag- if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia bargain. gled English teachers, Heaven sells the would be it. The East may be red but their > Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until 9.30pm. 5/F, Cu Ju cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman. > Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝 LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 Jianguomenwai Moroccan-inspired bistro, cocktail destina- can also hang around and appreciate the Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号双子座 tion and sports fan’s manna all rolled into afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the 阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776) 大厦东塔5层 (51096036/6037) see online.thatsmags. one, Renaissance man Badr Benjelloun’s com for other locations food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen. hutong gem is constantly evolving. Offering > Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to The Salud 老伍 * North African food with an international A Nanluoguxiang institution, with every- Saveurs de Coree James Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路16号 cocktails, Beijing’s widest selection of rums (6415 6513) thing from cheap beer to (loud) live music This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone and sports broadcasts from basketball to and low beams. The rum infusions are a several changes in recent years, not least cricket, Cu Ju is truly one of the city’s best Hidden Lounge * particular favorite on cold nights. Latest its move away from the hipper-than-thou all-around bar-restaurants. Although frustrating to find, Hidden branch in WDK a welcome addition to sur- confines of Nanluoguxiang. Fortunately, > 5-11pm, Sun-Tue, Thu; 5pm-late, Fri-Sat; closed Lounge rewards the intrepid with good art- rouding student dives. the menu remains largely intact. The Shin Wed. 28 Xiguan Hutong (Hutong entrance is 300m work and comfortable seating, suggesting > NLGX: Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66 Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while north of subway line 5, Zhangzizhong Lu stop), a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南锣鼓巷 the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too Dongcheng District 东城区细管胡同28号 6407 9782, prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix 66号 (6402 5086) good to be true. www.cujubeijing.com drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have > Wudaokou: 2/F, Qijixin Building, Zhanchunyuan > Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, Xilu 展春园西路奇蓟鑫大厦南侧2层 Dongcheng 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741 5753) to call them to find it, though. Daily Routine 日常生活 > Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments, This cozy bar is a diamond in the rough. Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 Slow Boat Brewery Taproom **

74 | March 2015 | www.thatsmags.com listings

This popular microbrewery has its own alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by > Daily 11-2am. 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 Chinese artists he represents and the pub hidden away in Dongcheng’s hutongs. Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers. 体北路4号院 (6591 9525) overall design of his topical and uncompro- Quality ales that change depending on > Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang mising exhibitions. International clout was the season, heated floors and a great little District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406 Paddy O’Shea’s * inevitable. kitchen round out the deal. 9947) Founder Karl Long airlifted an entire Irish- > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Road, > Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 5pm-midnight, Thu 5pm- themed pub, including residents, from Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 1am, Fri 5pm-late, Sat 2pm-late, Sun 2-10pm; 56 Temple 坛 * a council estate in Limerick and gently (5978 9768, www.longmarchspace.com) Dongsi Batiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四八条56号 Probably the manliest venue in town, this deposited it in central Beijing. With plenty (6538 5537) dimly lit and unventilated space is owned going on, including pub quiz and sports, Pace Beijing by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement no one seems to have noticed. With locations in New York, London and The Tree Burger) and known for late sets of hard > Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimenwai Beijing hosting the likes of Zhang Xi- A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene, rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直门外大街28号 aogang, Yue Minjun, Robert Rauschenberg, you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long (6592 6290) > Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Mark Rothko, Kiki Smith and Sol LeWitt, aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere. drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis Back Street 三里屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299) Pace inhabits Bauhaus-style buildings 798 is Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to idealized for. Go there! Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and the RMB15 draught. V Sports > Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.798 Art District, 2 Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors). > Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Spacious, comfortable, huge screens and Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号 > Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street, Dongcheng District 坛东城区鼓楼东大街206号B楼 no rowdy drunken cretins, V Sports makes 大山子艺术区 (5978 9781, www.pacegallery.com) Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里 202 (131 6107 0713) a claim for the champion of Beijing sports bars. Space Station 屯酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东面 XP 小萍 * (6415 1954) > Daily 5:30pm-6am, Gongti North Gate East side, Not often shown in 789’s sea of elites, From the ashes of Beijing’s now-legendary Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内东侧 (5293 0333) Space Station presents a younger genera- D-22, rises the brave new experimental tion of domestic artists. Exhibitions tend to 10 Best Livehouses club XP. Operated and owned by former Nightclubs have a good curatorial understanding of D-22 main man (and noted economist) space and high-quality 2D work. 2 Kolegas 两个好朋友酒吧 * Michael Pettis, XP is more avant-garde The Bar at Migas * > Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Rd798 Art Call it what you will: Dos Kolegas. Fire trap. than its previous incarnation. Expect sonic A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather District, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术 That place by the drive-through. But there’s projections, drone-core jazz and the latest than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one 区中一街 (5978 9671) no denying that this artsy alternative in cutting-edge Beijing sound. calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get venue has its fingers on an eclectic musical > 1pm-late, closed Monday, 2 Silouxiang (just south the party started. Good-enough cocktails Tang Contemporary Art pulse. In summer, it really comes alive with of Gulou Xidajie, Xicheng District. 西城区地安门内大 range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about Stressing cutting-edge exhibition installa- barbecue pits, all-day parties and a whole 街四楼巷 (6406 9947) the music, man. tion and curatorial theory. With locations lotta love. > Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to Friday in Bangkok, Hong Kong and Beijing, Tang > Daily 8pm-2am. 21 Liangmaqiao Lu (inside the Zajia Lab 杂家 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang focuses on promoting artistic exchange drive-in movie theater park), Chaoyang District 朝阳 A Daoist Temple is exactly where you’d District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 (5208-6061) throughout East Asia. 区亮马桥路21号 (6436 8998,www.2kolegas.com) expect an Italian Sinologist to open a venue > Free. Tues-Sun 10.30am-6pm. 798 Factory, 2 – big on film screenings, A/V projects, Chocolate Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区大山子酒 Dusk Dawn Club (DDC) 黄昏黎明俱乐部 avant-garde puppetry and choice but ob- It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without 仙桥路798工厂2号入口前行300米 (5978 9610, www. Great little livehouse near Meishuguan scure live music for the adventurous. mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret atngcontemporary.com) with a focus on jazz, folk and indie rock. > Hong En Daoist Temple, Doufuchi Hutong, dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women. Craft beer and whisky means you won’t get Dongcheng District 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同宏 Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with Ullens Center for Contemporary Art bored of the drinks list quickly. 恩观前殿 (156 0112 2252, 8404 9141, www.zajia.cc) bottles of spirits from around RMB200, Filling the largest factory space in 798 with > Tue-Sun 1pm-2am; 14 Shanlao Hutong, cocktails under RMB50 (including the Chinese and international art, the UCCA has Dongcheng 东城区美术馆后街山老胡同14号 (6407 Yugong Yishan 愚公移山 * absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon) and the curatorial power and financial backing 8969) We’ve lost more body weight than we’d regular floor shows. to put together some of Beijing’s most care to remember in YY’s mosh pit. Fortu- > Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝 impressive exhibitions. Hot Cat Club 热力猫 nately, almost all the acts – usually hip-hop 阳区日坛北路19号 (8561 3988) > RMB10, free Thursdays. Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. 798 A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie outfits Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝 Cat is the type of hard-working venue that from across the globe – were worth it. The Dada * 阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (5780 0200, www.ucca. helps cement a city’s music scene. From upstairs bar area is a refuge from the sweat It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for org.cn) Afro Funk to Math Rock to painful open-mic glands below. too long, but already Dada is the hippest nights, this everyman’s club breeds good > Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines Caochangdi Art Village vibes. Decent drinks, lots of loungy seats of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng under rock house Temple offer an intimate District 东城区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711 Platform China * and plenty of space. place to nod along to an eclectic range of Platform China has a Gallery A & B, one di- > Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just south of all things electro from the best names on rectly across from the other, about equal in Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同 Hotel Bars the underground scene. 46号(6400 7868). > Daily, 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong size and each devoted to the promotion of Atmosphere ¥¥ Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B experimental creation, from sound installa- Jianghu 江湖酒吧 Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of 栋101室 (183 1108 0818) tion to performative, 3D and 2D art. This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. No. 319-1, East End Art is exactly where you’d take that friend from swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-de- Lantern * Zone A, Caochangdi Village, Chaoyang District 朝阳 out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy gree views of the 700AQI PM2.5. Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture 区草场地村319-1艺术东区A区内(6432 0091, www. atmosphere is also its downfall – any show > Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F, Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the platformchina.org) with under 40 people and you’re stuck China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大 ShanghART Beijing looking through the windows. Hip and known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, 酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433) Originating in 2007 in Shanghai, this casually familiar, the jazz and folk bookings it also makes good drinks and attracts institution skyrocketed as a major exhibitor keep things low-key enough for the get- Centro ¥ international electronica DJs. of Chinese photographic and digital media home-for-the-babysitter crowd. Although it’s no longer quite the go-to > Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s > 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体 art. Now representing over 40 artists with Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街东棉花胡 place for beautiful people it once was, Cen- 育场西门向北100米 (139 119 77989) five Asian locations, ShanghART is an inter- 同7号 (6401 5269, site.douban.com/jianghujiubar, tro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly national festival regular. [email protected]) jazz performaces, spacious and recently MIX > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. 261 Caochangdi, renovated lounge areas and classic drinks A bit like a trip to the Forbidden City, Mix Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地261号 (6432 3202, Mako Live 麻雀瓦舍 like the blue-cheese martini. is one of those places in Beijing you have www.shanghartgallery.com) Nestled in the old Beijing Jeep plant, this > Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, to experience before you leave. Not much Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店 Three Shadows Photography Art Centre former warehouse plays host to a Silk Road is forbidden in this underground hip-hop 1层 (6561 8833) Elegantly utilitarian in design, the V-shaped smorgasbord of musical encounters from disco palace and if you don’t leave with western China and the ‘Stans. Forget the gallery is an ideal venue to accommodate China Bar ¥¥ hook-up in tow then you’re doing some- overpriced bar and come for the killer all sizes and forms of photography. The Top views from the 65th floor and flash thing very wrong. sound, comfortable wraparound balcony courtyard also hosts lavish openings, drinks are the attractions on offer at this > Daily 8pm-6am, Inside Worker’s Stadium North and five-meter replica of Optimus Prime, Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 screenings and concerts. hip hotel bar. > Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 115A Caochangdi, followed by a hearty meal at the Xinjiang 6506 9888, 6530 2889, 150 1138 2219, mixclub@ > Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地155号 (6431 9693, restaurant upstairs. sohu.com Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝 www.threeshadows.cn) > Hongdian Art Factory, 36 Guangqu Lu, Chaoyang 阳区建国门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40) District 朝阳区广渠路36号红点艺术工厂院内(5205 Vics 1113, www.mako001.com) Separated at birth from its identical twin Chambers Fine Art Beijing Xian ¥ With its compeer gallery in New York, This enlongated bar space makes a nice brother, Mix, this is the definition of Gongti MAO Livehouse 光芒 * Chambers is a matriarch with extensive spot for refreshment after a day spent sweatbox meat-market chic at its very From the denim-jacketed doorman to the roots in the local-studio scene that allows shopping at neighboring Indigo. finest. The Chinese love it – as do moody well-grafittied walls, Mao leans on every Big Apple headhunters to cull next genera- > Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am, 1/F, EAST Russians and jailbait students – helping Vics Hollywood rock club cliché without feeling to become one of the most infamous clubs tion avant-garde and provide a stepping Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥22 stone to international recognition. scripted. Besides boasting the worst bar in 号北京东隅酒店一层 (8414 9810, www.xian-bar.com) in the capital. town, Mao delivers with great sound and > Daily 8:30pm late, Inside Worker’s Stadium North > Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Red No.1-D, Caochangdi, Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地红一号D座 (5127 the best billings of heavy metal, punk hit- Sports Bars Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (5293 ting this side of the Drum Tower. 0333) 3298, www.chambersfineart.com) > 111 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区 The Den 鼓楼东大街111号(6402 5080, www.maolive.com) White Space Beijing At the opposite end of the 24-hour drink- GALLERY There are no restricting on the art this gal- ing spectrum from Centro, The Den is a lery supports, leading to some of the area’s The Post Mountain 后山 seedy sports joint that starts off sedate and Built into a man-made hill in the center of 798 Art District Picks more perplexing exhibitions. Always fun grows steadily sadder as night turns to day. and on the pulse of vitality, though empiri- the MOMA Complex, this new addition to It can get rough and ready come dawn. Beijing’s growing livehouse empire is The Galleria Continua * cal value is pushed to an extreme. Solid (cheap) menu, good location and In the often-insular 798, Galleria Continua > Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 255 Caochangdi, Airport Hobbit meets Manhattan. With as much those opening times earn it a place. vibe as a sterile modern-art gallery. Its is the international gallery. Their ware- Service Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区机场辅路草场 > Open 24 hours. 4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang house space is a forum for high-caliber art- 地255号(8456 2054, www.whitespace-beijing.com) imported sound system and ramped floor District 朝阳区工体东路4号城市宾馆正门旁边 makes for decent sound and sightlines. ists from nearly every continent, including several of China’s artistic nobility. Citywide Picks > Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, The Local * Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng District (next to > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. 798 Art District, 2 Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2 Arrow Factory MOMA Cinemateque) 东城区东直门外香河园路1号 into its own, with large (yet strangely 当代园区楼北百老汇电影中心北侧号798大山子艺术区 (5978 9505, www.galleriacon- This space is one of a kind in Beijing, an MOMA T8 (8400 unobtrusive) screenings of sports and 4774) tinua.com) independently run alternative space in the political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and hutong of Beijing’s center. Showing young, School Bar 学校酒吧 * a nice selection of draughts and cocktails. Long March Space experimental artists, Arrow only takes Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t Founder and curator, Lu Jie abides by up about 15sqm and is viewable 24/7. As fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this need another. exacting standards from both the 20-odd a backlash against artists being pushed

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For the sexiest tan speaking services include pediatrics, of their more popular tours take cyclists Guys/girls. Blow-dry, up-dos, highlights, possible, get custom-made tanning tips gynecology and obstetrics. through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen coloring available. L’Oreal, Schwarzkopf, from the well-trained staff. Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs. > 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西 > Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) Rm 307, Bldg 4, Jianwai Soho KeraSraight, Inoa. RMB165-980 women, >12 Jingshan East Street, Dongcheng District 东城区路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www. 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District朝阳 RMB115-468 men. 景山东街12号 (6402 5653 Mobile: 13911886524, re amcare.com.cn) 区东三环中路建外SOHO西区4楼307室(5900 0427, > 209 2and floor, zoon3 China World Trade Centre www.luxura.net) 2) 5005, 5/F, 3.3 Sanlitun, Chaoyang Shopping Mall. 国贸商城区域3 二楼 209. (8535 1002, Beijing International Medical Center District朝阳区三里屯3.3大厦5层5005号 (5136 5186, 131 4667 9913). 43 Sanlitun Beijie Nan,Chaoyang. DENTAL 三里屯北街南43号楼 (135 0137 2971) (IMC) www.luxura.net) Established in 1993, the International Medi- Arrail Dental cal Center-Beijing counts on an expert team

76 | March 2015 | www.thatsmags.com listings of foreign doctors, offering a wide range of (400 876 2747, 5985-0333, www.oasishealth.cn) 百子湾南二路77号 (8771 7171 www.bcis.cn) Western Academy of Beijing medical services, including family medicine, 京西国际学校 psychological services, dental, ob/gyn, The International Montessori School of The Western Academy of Beijing (WAB) is pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for EDUCATION Beijing 北京蒙台梭利国际学校 a creative and innovative IB World School travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds are also Founded in 1990, MSB is Beijing’s first fully built upon a solid foundation of core available. English, Farsi, Japanese, Chinese, MBA & EMBA Schools registered international Montessori school. values and our mission to Connect, Inspire, Arabic and Russian spoken. The school also boasts an unsurpassed dual Challenge; Make a Difference. Our students > 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, 50 BBA at BFSU-SolBridge Mandarin/English program geared towards exemplify these values through their aware- Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路北京外国语大学国际商学院 helping students achieve fluency in either ness of the world around them, service to 50号燕莎中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465 > 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District, 海淀区西三 language from an early age. Curriculum others, can-do spirit and commitment to 1384/28, www.imclinics.com) 环北路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881 aside, MSB boasts spacious classrooms, a excellence. WAB graduates are accepted 6763/8881 8537) high teacher-student ratio and impres- into world-class colleges and universities Beijing New Century Harmony Pediatric sive staff longevity. Tuition: RMB98,000 across the globe. Clinic LEMBA - RMB177,000/year. > 10 Lai Guang Ying Dong Lu, Chao Yang District > Shunyi, K-01, Building No.19, Harmony Business The Leadership EMBA from the University > Bldg 8, 2A, Xiangjiang Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区来广营东路10号(5986 5588) Centre, Liyuan Street, Tianzhu Town 天竺镇丽苑街荣 of Maryland 朝阳区香江北路甲2号院8号楼 6432 8228 ext. 800, 和商业中心19号楼K-01 (6456-2599; harmonypeds@ Robert H. Smith School of Business is a http:>www.msb.edu.cn, [email protected] Yew Chung International School ncich.com.cn, www.ncich.com.cn) unique learning experience in Beijing. The 耀中国际学校 program offers world class executive and Beijing World Youth Academy > Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang Beijing Passion International Medical leadership education from some of the best 北京世青国际学校 District 朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731 Center professors the world has to offer. Every Beijing World Youth Academy (BWYA) is an www.ycis-bj.com) This full-service international clinic month one of the professors from the international school for students of all na- provides 24-hr general medical care and a University of Maryland comes to Beijing tionalities ages 6 to 18, offering programs Kindergartens patient-centered attitude. Beijing Passion to instruct the class for 4 consecutive on its campuses conveniently located in Beanstalk International Bilingual School International Medical Center is equipped days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18 Wangjing and Lido. An IB World School with the latest in medical technology and months; the impact lasts a lifetime. 青苗国际双语学校 since 2001, BWYA values holistic education > 1) Kindergarten > 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu, is designed to support the comfort, safety Email: [email protected] and seeks to give students ample oppor- and privacy of patients. Tel: 8526 2528/29 Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 (6466 tunity to develop as globally-aware critical 9255) 2) Primary School > Block 2, Upper East Side, > 24hours, B1/F, Borui Building, 26 Dongsanhuan thinkers. A wide varity of co-curricular 6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环 Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北路26号博瑞大 Rutgers International Executive MBA activities are offered to further enrich 北路6号阳光上东二区 (5130 7951) 3) Middle & High 厦B1层 6517 7667, www.passion-medical.com > 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦 (5877 student life. Graduates of BWYA have been School > 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南十里居38号 (8456 6019) Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Chil- 1706, www.rutgersinasia.com) accepted at prestigious universities around the world. Age range: 6-18. Tuition: RMB dren’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院 100,000- 140,000/year. House of Knowledge International Kinder- > Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, Mandarin Schools > Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm. 18 Huajiadi Beili, Wangjing, garten (HOK) Beiyuan Lu北苑路小关北里甲2号. Tel: 6499-0000. Chaoyang District Inside 94 Middle school 北京市 House of Knowledge International kindergar- [email protected], en.hmcare.net The Frontiers School 朝阳区望京花家地北里18号(6461 7787 ext.32, 8454 ten (HOK) has locations in both Shunyi and 3478/0649, [email protected], www.ibwya.net) Chaoyang. Both locations offer a Kindergar- Beijing United Family Hospital and Clin- ten program for children aged 10 months to ics 北京和睦家医院 The British School of Beijing 北京英国学校 6 years (Pre-school). Students are treated as > Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open The British School of Beijing, established in competent learners and the school empha- 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm.> 2 Jiangtai Road, sizes critical thinking and collaboration skills, 2003, has campuses in Shunyi (primary & Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. Tel: (10) 5927 in an environment where children “Lean to 7000 / 5927 7120(Emergency Hotline). United secondary) and Sanlitun (primary). BSB of- Learn”. In additional, the Shunyi location also Family CBD Clinic和睦家朝外诊所, Mon-Sat, 9:30am- fers an enhanced English National Curricu- has a elementary school starting from grade 6:30pm.> Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6 lum to 1,500 expatriate students, aged 1 to 1 in September 2014. Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区朝阳门外 18, beginning with Early Years Foundation > 1) Quanfa Gardens Campus: North gate of Quanfa 大街6号万通中心AB座2层3017室. Tel: (10) 5907 1266. Stage, Primary, Secondary, IGCSE exams in compound, 15 Maquanying, Chaoyang District 朝 Jianguomen Health and Wellness Center和睦家建国 Year 10 and 11 and the International Bac- 阳区马泉营15号泉发花园北门(6431 8452, www. 门保健中心, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm>21 calaureate (IB) Diploma programme in Year hokschools.com) 2) Victoria Gardens Campus: 15 Jianguomen Dajie, B1, The St. Regis Residence, St. 12 and 13. Admission & Fees: RMB102,993- Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 Regis Hotel朝阳区建国门外大街21号北京国际俱乐部 246,057. Contact our Admissions team to 朝阳公园西路15号维多利亚花园公寓(6538 2624, www. 饭店. Tel: (10) 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 (Immigration arrange a school tour. hokschools.com) Clinic ). Shunyi Clinic和睦家顺义诊所Wi-fi internet, > Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm, South Side, 9 An Hua Street, Mon-Fri, 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9:30am- Shunyi District 顺义区安华街9号南侧(8047 3558, EtonKids International Kindergarten 4:30pm.> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real 伊顿国际幼儿园 Join the friendly and professional team at www.britishschool.org.cn, admissions@british- Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区天 school.org.cn) 1) Lido – 6436 7368 www.etonkids.com > Room C103 竺开发区荣祥广场806号,Tel: (10) 8046 5432. Shunyi Frontiers, who’ve been teaching Mandarin Lido Country Club, Lido Place Jichang Lu, Chaoyang Dental Clinic顺义牙科诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sat, for 11 years. Canadian International School of Beijing District 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场 2) 6506 4805 9:30am-7:30pm> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 818, Tian Zhu > 3/F, Bldg 30, Dongzhongjie, Dongzhimenwai, 3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion Guanghua Lu, Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District顺义北京加拿大国际学校 Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东中街30号三层 6413 Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层区天竺开发区荣祥广场818号. Tel: (10) 8046 1102. Located in the Third Embassy Quarter of 1547, www.frontiers.com.cn, frontiers@frontiers. 3) 8437 1006 Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and Liangma Clinic亮马诊所 Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, downtown Beijing, the Canadian Interna- com.cn) Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交 8:30am-5pm>2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang tional School of Beijing (CISB) opened its 汇处西南角 4) 8480 5538 Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District, East Road朝阳区东方东路19号1号楼会所27号外交人 Beijing Mandarin Language School doors in September 2006. This world-class Beijing 朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区 5) 6533 6995 Bldg 19, 员公寓B区官舍16号 . Tel: (10) 5927 7005 www.ufh. Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin facility offers an internationally recognized Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝 com.cn, [email protected] School is the city’s top institute for teaching Canadian & IB PYP, IB MYP and IBDP educa- 阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼 6) 6539 8967 Palm spoken and written Mandarin as a second tion. The Canadian International School Springs International Apartments 8 Chaoyang Park language. More than 5,000 students of Beijing develops the whole child in an Nanlu Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路8号棕榈 Hongkong International Medical Clinic, from over 66 countries and more than 80 environmentally sensitive school within a 泉国际公寓 7) 6749 5008 Bldg 21, Guangqu Jiayuan, Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所 companies and embassies have successfully kind, caring community to become a citizen Guangqumen- wai, Dongcheng District 东城区广渠门外广渠家园21号楼 8) 8478 0578 Baoxing International Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Macau learned with us each year. of the world. Phase 2, Wangjing Chaoyang District 朝阳区望京宝星 Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei Dajie朝阳门 > Guangming Hotel School: Room 0709, 7/F > 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马园国际社区2期 9) 8047 2983 Block 1, Arcadia Villas, 北大街2号港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼9层; 6553-9752, Guangming Hotel (near the U.S Embassy) 朝阳区桥路38号 (6465 7788 www.cisb.com.cn) Houshayu Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪罗马环岛北侧天 6553-2288/2345/6/7; [email protected]; www. 光明饭店7层0709 (8441 8391; info@beijingmanda- 北路阿凯笛亚庄园1座 10) 5870 6779 20A Xidawang Lu, hkclinic.com rinschool.com; www.beijingmandarinschool.com; Harrow International School Beijing Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大望路甲20号首府社区内 Skype: beijingmandarinschool1998) 北京哈罗英国学校 www.harrowbeijing.cn International SOS Harrow International School Beijing prides La Maison Montessori de Pekin Since 1989, International SOS has been run Beijing Juncheng Language School itself on its high academic standards, a 北京中法双语蒙氏儿童之家 by globally trained medical professionals 北京君诚语言学校 close-knit school community, a rich extra- The first bilingual French-Chinese Montes- and provides medical, security and travel > 1) Room 208, 1 Panjiapo Hutong, curricular activity program and the quality sori kindergarten in Beijing, it welcomes Chaoyangmenwai, Dongcheng District 东城区朝阳 of its pastoral care provision. Leadership advice, as well as emergency help 24/7. Its children between ages 2 to 6 years old. 门外潘家坡胡同1号东城区职工大学208办室 (6525 skills are promoted school-wide, with a alarm centers operate house calls, ambu- The kindergarten is located in a beautiful lance and evacuation services, and standard 9932/6526 7539) 2) Gucheng Village, 15 Huosha Lu, range of enrichment activities to help Houshayu Town, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙 students develop teamwork and creative courtyard in the hutongs. Schedule: Mon- health treatments. Languages spoken 路古城段15号 (8049 0307) thinking skills, as well as independence and day to Friday: 8:30am to 3:30pm. After class include English, German, French, Mandarin, responsibility. Students graduating from activities also offered. Spanish, Japanese, Italian and Cantonese. The Bridge School Harrow Beijing have won places at a range > 50 Dongsi Shisitiao, Dongcheng > Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16 北京桥汉语言学校 of universities across the world including 东城区东四十四条50号 Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District朝阳区新源里16号琨莎 Tel: 131 2025 0341/ 8401 3974; > (The Bridge School Head office)Room 503, 5/F, Princeton, Yale, Oxford and Cambridge. 中心1座105室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.interna- e-mail: [email protected] Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang > Address: 287, Hegezhuang, Cuigezhuang County, tionalsos.com) www.lamaisonmontessoridepk.com District 朝阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店5层503室 Chaoyang District Parkway Health Clinic (15321793321 Grettchin) 朝阳区崔各庄乡何各庄村 287 号 Tel: +8610 > Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm; CBD, 1-2/F, Vantone Center, Ivy Schools 艾毅幼儿园 6444 8900 Ext. 6900 Fax: +8610 6445 3870 > www.ivyschools.com 1) East Lake Campus (8451 6 Chaowai Street 朝阳门外大街甲六号万通中心 International Schools Email: [email protected] AB座一二层; (4000-662-882(24hrs); enquiry@ 1380/1) C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai parkwayhealth.cn; www.parkwayhealth.cn > No. Main Street, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街35号东 Beijing BISS International School International School of Beijing 湖别墅C座101室; 2) Ivy Bilingual School 艾毅双语幼儿 101-201,Beijing link, block2, No.6 Yuan, Jing Shun 北京BISS国际学校北京顺义国际学校 Dong Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区京顺东街6号院2号楼园 Ocean Express Campus: (8446 7286/7) Building E, > Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District > www.isb.bj.edu.cn 10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 顺北京Link 101-201室 Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝朝阳区安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 www.biss. 义区安华路10号 (8149 2345) 阳区东三环北路2号远洋新干线E座 3) Orchid Garden com.cn) Vista Medical Center 维世达诊所 Campus: (8439 7080) Orchid Garden, 18 Xinjin Lu, SIBS Springboard International Blingual Cuige Xiang, Chaoyang 朝阳区崔各乡新锦路18号卓锦 > 24hours. Wi-Fi internet. 3/F Kerry Center. 1 Beijing City International School 万代 4) Wangjing Campus: (5738 9166/1332 110 6167) Guanghua Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心商场3层 Tel: 8529- School 君城国际双语学院北京乐成国际学校 Kylin Zone, Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu, Wangjing, Chaoyang 朝 6618. Email: [email protected]. Website: www. Springboard International Bilingual School 阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内 7) Rm106, ware- vista-china.net Located in Beijing’s Central Business is a place where children, staff and parents District, Beijing City International School work in partnership to enable all their house4, 653 Waima Lu, by Wangjia Matou Lu (3376 8308) 外马路653号4库106室, 近王家码头路 OASIS International Hospital (BCIS) lives by its motto: “Empowering students to realize their full potential. They and Inspiring through Challenge and are offering a stimulating and full inter- OASIS International Hospital specializes in 3e International 北京3e国际学校 Compassion.” This non-profit, independent national curriculum as well as an exciting serving the expatriate community with the > 6437 3344 latest world-class technology and a broad co-educational day school offers an inter- after school program, which will include range of services, all in a pristine facility de- national curriculum under the International Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and www.3eik.com, 9-1 Jiangtai Xilu Chaoyang 朝阳区将台 signed to provide patients with the utmost Baccalaureate (IB) World School system and football. 西路9-1号(四德公园旁) comfort, care and privacy. is authorized to teach all three IB programs > 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, > Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am- (Primary Years, Middle Years, and Diploma Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 12.30pm; 24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao Programme). (www.sibs.com.cn, [email protected]; 8049 2450) Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 > 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区

www.thatsmags.com | March 2015 | 77 classifieds Accommodation Gold-Standard Beijing apartment features close proximity to cultural landmarks such Dongcheng District contemporary concepts designed for luxury as The Forbidden City and Tiananmen Ascott Raffles City Beijing living. Square. 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Wangjing, Chaoyang District from the 2008 Beijing Olympic Village. Website: www.bjtanning.com District >No.15 Haidian Zhong Street, Haidian The interiors are contemporary and restful while marble-clad bathrooms and kitchens Tel: 84722855 District Regus Beijing NCI Centre新华保险大厦中心 are fully equipped. Tel: 5873 0088 LA BELLEZA 15/F, No.12A Jianguomenwai Ave., > Website: www.lansonplace.com La Belleza means Beauty and Aesthetics in Chaoyang District Lanson Place Central Park Residences Lusongyuan Hotel Spanish. Professional hair-designers from A traditional compound of quadrangle Tower 23, Central Park, No.6 Hong Kong ,Korea and China gather here. Regus Beijing Pacific Century Place composing of 5 courtyards which lies in Chaoyangmenwai Avenue,Chaoyang LA BELLEZA is the hairdressing salon for 盈科中心 the "hutong" area of Beijing. 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The Imperial Mansion, > Tel: (86 10) 6404 0436 Beijing – Marriott Executive Apartments MegaSun Tanning Salon Regus Beijing Zhongguancun Metropolis Fax: (86 10) 6403 0418 reflects an exceptional level of luxury. As the only flagship store for this popular Tower 中关村欧美汇大厦 Address: > Gate, No. 1 Xiagongfu Street, Dongcheng German tanning salon, megaSun Tanning 7/F, No.2 Dongsan Street Zhongguancun Xi No.22 Banchang Lane , Kuanjie, Dongcheng District will provide for each client the finest sun Zone, Haidian District District Tel: 6564 9999 tanning experience. 东城区宽街板厂胡同22号 The Millennium Residences of the Beijing Our center has prepared the newest Regus Beijing China Central Place www.the-silk-road.com Fortune Plaza functional 7900 alpha and pureEnergy 华贸中心 E-mail: [email protected] The Millennium Residences of the Beijing chamber systems, combined with easyCare 9/F Tower 2, No.79 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang optical testers. At megaSun, enjoy our Lee Garden Service Apartments Fortune Plaza is located in the heart of District the Beijing CBD which bears the most professional UV and tanning services. Regus Beijing Parkview Green A newly renovated high-end premier living > 8 Dongdaqiao Road, sShangdu SOHO residence in a central location next to the momentously potential of development 侨福芳草地中心 and value elevation. While 25 minutes away North Tower, Rm. 2302 15/F Office Building A, No.9 Dongdaqiao shopping and cultural sites of Beijing’s Chaoyang District, Beijing Wangfujing, suites range from studios to from the Beijing International Airport, the Road, Chaoyang District Millennium Residences is walking distance Website: www.imegasun.com Regus Beijing China Life – West 4-bedroom apartments (60-610sqm in size) e-mail: [email protected] and are tastefully furnished with specially from nearly all Embassies. 中国人寿大厦-西 > 7 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu Chaoyang Sina Weibo: @麦肤堂 West, 5/F, No.16 Chao Wai Street, Chaoyang selected materials. Tel: 5900-2236/2238 > 18 Jinyu Hutong, Wangfujing, Dongcheng District. District Tel: 8588 2888 (100m East of Sun Dong An Plaza) 东城区 BUSINESS CENTER 王府井金鱼胡同18号 (新东安东侧100米); Oakwood Residence Beijing CSO (Singapore) Beijing Business Center 24hr front desk: 6525 8855, Fax: 6525 8080, Oakwood Residence Beijing offers 406 Servcorp We have 10 years experience in [email protected], www. fully equipped luxury apartments ranging Smart businesses understand that flexibility managing serviced offices in the Asia lgapartment.com) from studios to four bedroom penthouse is the future of the workplace. They choose and Pacific region, and our headquarters FraserResidence CBD East Beijing and terrace apartments, all exquisitely the world's finest Serviced Offices to grow is in Singapore. CSO Beijing is our first Our location on the Fringe of the CBD with furnished in elegant and stylish decor. Each their businesses, run critical projects and business center in China . We are mainly excellent connections to the subway line apartment is fitted with a state-of-the-art give their people flexibility. providing fully renovated and equipped 1 (Sihui station), BRT Lines (Ciyunsi) and air purification and air conditioning system > Level 26 Fortune Financial Center, 5 offices to clients for immediate use, and public bus system mean that wherever your which ensures 99.9% pure, triple filtered air, Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 all the serviced offices can be used as intern needs to be in the city, getting there so you can trust in Oakwood and breathe 东三环中路5号财富金融中心26层 (Servcorp. incorporation purpose, and we offer is relatively fuss free! easy. com.cn; tel: 5775 0310; fax: 5775 0350) maximum flexibility and complete smart One bedroom deluxe: RMB16,000 /month > No. 8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang office system to help our clients save Regus Serviced Office Two bedroom Executive: RMB26,000 / District, Beijing 100027, China cost. We also provide virtual offices, month [email protected] • FLEXIBLE OFFICE LEASES FROM 1 DAY TO 1 meeting room and conference room, video Three bedroom Deluxe: RMB33,000 /month Website: www.oakwoodasia.com/resbeijing YEAR conferencing, incorporation services and Email: sales.frbeijing@frasershospitality. Tel: 5995 2888 Fax: 5995 2999 • QUICK AND EASY TO SET UP FOR 1-200 many other services. PEOPLE Add.: Level 6, Sun Palace Building, com THE WESTIN EXECUTIVE RESIDENCES • PRICES FROM RMB 180 PER MONTH Taiyanggong, Beijing > Website: http:>beijing-east The Westin Executive Residences at The frasershospitality.com • FIND MORE ON REGUS.CN Ms. Stephanie Yan, Mobile: 18210080591 Beijing Financial Street offer an array of Email: [email protected] Tel: 010-58709188 / 400-881-6988 world-class cuisine options and Westin’s REGUS BEIJING (15 LOCATIONS) Website: www.csochina.cn FraserSuite CBD Beijing signature amenities designed to elicit Tel: 86 10 64697000 personal renewal. Just 40 minutes from the The ultimate luxury in apartment living, Regus Sun Dong An Plaza airport, the Westin Executive Residences Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style 雷格斯新东安广场 [NEW] provides direct access to Beijing’s business, and comfort, that surpasses the service 7/F, Tower 2, No. 138, Wangfujing Avenue, Catering Services level of many Beijing hotels. The 357 entertainment and shopping district and

78 | March 2015 | www.thatsmags.com classifieds

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www.thatsmags.com | March 2015 | 79 sports | running

“As well as providing much needed variation, running intervals gets you fitter, quicker”

Running Out of Fear Mix Up the Training and Relax Into Running

by Will Philipps

Every runner has a fear, or rather multiple varying the times to mix it up a bit. Result: science (unless you ask),” Randy adds. “Is fears. Fortunately, since starting a more we all run along the same route and start it fun? I would say yes – you don’t have to regimental running regime in this – the think about the theory since the HeyRun- ‘year of the sub-four marathon’ – a number you can run at a consistent speed. (Bonus: ning coaches do it all for you.” of those fears have been allayed. there’lland finish be insomeone the same faster place, than assuming you to try It is fun – not least for the self-congratu- Fear of the treadmill: since running out and keep up with on the way out – and latory gloating that regular exercise allows on the streets with the HeyRunning crew, they’ll be chasing you down as you return you over your partner/friends/colleagues. my treadmill usage has been down 50 per- to the starting point.) But that gloating might come back to haunt cent. Treadmills are for lab rats – for every As well as providing much needed vari- me, as a fear that affects all (serious) runners surfaces: injury. The arch of my foot is lost forever. quicker. Randy explains: “The growing is feeling tight after the increase in train- ounceFear of of fitness the black created, lung: aI onlypart deemedof your soul bodyation, of running evidence intervals in sports gets science you fitter, points ing volume. Have I overdone it? (Unlikely, nine of the last 30 days to be too smoggy to towards interval training being a more ef- Randy is quick to tell me, dishearteningly.) go out running. Yes, Beijing’s air is bad, but A physio appointment calls (all HeyRun- in February at least, it was more of a minor based training. Intervals push your body ners are entitled to a free 30-minute con- hindrance than it was a mortal enemy. ficient approach than traditional distance- sultation at ParkwayHealth): is the year of Fear of being left behind: if you run pre-race training and it’s a quick and sure- the sub-4 marathon over already? with a club, surely the faster runners (and to fire on all cylinders, it makes for good · Next month: a trip to the clinic I’ve seen HeyRunning head coach Randy “Each of the different running ses- sprinting around Beijing like a luminescent firesions way focuses to lose on weight. a part of the HeyRunning Join Will on his journey: That’s Beijing readers are gazelle) are going to leave the weaker run- 4S (Speed, Strength, Stride & Stamina) entitled to a special discount for the Spring 2015 ners behind? How does that work exactly? Method. So on that Monday session, for ex- HeyRunning camp. The eight-week camp entitles Well, a Monday night session at HeyRun- ample, we focus on stamina and strength. you to three sessions per week, and is suitable for all ning showed me how. Instead of just jog- Stamina workouts train your body to run ranges and abilities – from first-timers to 100km ultra- ging off into the night aimlessly with little longer distances. Strength workouts are marathon runners. You can find out more and sign up more than a podcast to keep you company, the ones that burn the legs, prepping your for the camp online (it started March 1, but it’s not too a few companions makes all the difference. body to maintain running at race speeds late to register!): www.heyrobics.com/heyrunning. over longer distances even though you (View weekly session schedules on their site, too.) a crossroads in the Liangmaqiao embassy may already be tired.” Availability for the Spring camps limited to 100 spaces! maze,After a where five-minute quiet, widewarm roads up, we make arrive a at Being chased around Sanlitun at night great spot for running. sounds like a nightmare situation ending To make sure no one gets left behind (or with a night in a police cell. And all that lost), we run intervals – everybody leaves technical jargon – is there a fear that this > Register as a That’s Beijing reader using the the starting point and runs along the same isn’t a fun as I hoped? ‘irunthatsbeijing’ promo code for a sign-up cost of route at their own pace for, say, three min- “One of HeyRunning’s principles is to RMB400 (a saving of RMB200) utes, then runs back to the starting point make running fun by keeping it simple – > Drop-ins are always welcome at individual for the same amount of time. Then repeat, we never bombards runners with all the HeyRunning sessions – RMB30 per session

80 | March 2015 | www.thatsmags.com