Uskotračna pruga u regiji Hercegovina/ sagrađena je početkom 20. stoljeća i spajala je s Dubrovnikom i Konavlima u Hrvatskoj. Prvi ‘’Ćiro’’ prošao je ovom prugom 15. srpnja 1901. Ideja za revitalizaciju ove linije kao biciklističke staze stvorena je zajednički, s obje strane granice, u cilju očuvanja ove pruge kao povijesne baštine te razvijanja nove turističke ponude. Narrow gauge railway in / Dubrovnik regions was built in the early 20th century, and conne- cted Mostar with Dubrovnik and in . The first ‘’Ćiro’’ passed this railway on 15 July, 1901. The idea to revitalize this line as a bicycle rout was born jointly from both side of the border in order to preserve this railway line as a historical heritage and to develop new tourism offer. Uvod/ 2 Introduction Austro-Ugarska monarhija, koja je vladala po- Austro-Hungarian monarchy, which ruled on the dručjem BiH krajem 19. i početkom 20. stoljeća area of in the late 19th izgradila je mrežu željezničkih pruga uskog and early 20th century built a network of narrow kolosijeka (kolosijek širine 0,76 m). Pruge je iz- gauge railways (track width 0.76 m). Railways were gradila prvenstveno kao strateške vojne objekte built primarily as strategic military facilities and i one su povezivale južne jadranske luke s they were connecting southern Adriatic ports with gradovima u zaleđu i sa srednjom Europom. cities in the hinterland and with Central Europe. Pruge u Hercegovini izgrađene su kao dio Railways in Herzegovina were built as part of the Južne pruge, a prva dionica te pruge od Met- Southern Line, and the first section of that railway kovića do Mostara, dužine 42,4 km, puštena from Metković to Mostar, in the length of 42.4 km, je u promet 13.06.1885. godine, dok je pruga was opened for traffic on 13 June, 1885, while the od Gabele do Zelenike u Boki Kotorskoj (Crna railway from Gabela to Zelenike in Bay of Kotor Gora), dužine 155,5 km, s odvojcima od Huma (Montenegro), in the length of 155.5 kilometers, do Trebinja (16,7 km) i Uskoplja do Gruža u with branches from Hum to Trebinje (16.7 km) Dubrovniku u Republici Hrvatskoj (16,5 km), and Uskoplje to Gruž in Dubrovnik in Republic of puštena u promet 1901. godine. Croatia (16.5 km), was opened for traffic in 1901. Uskotračna pruga je služila ljudima, povezivala Narrow gauge railway served the people, conne- države, krajeve, narode i kulture. Narodima s cted countries, regions, nations and cultures. For ovih područja bile su to pruge spasa, omogu- nations from this region those were the salvation ćile su im bolji život i svekoliki napredak te su railways, they enabled them a better life and ostavile trag civilizacije na mjestima kroz koja je the overall progress, and they have left the mark Ćiro vozio, hučio, tukao, zviždao i paru ispuštao of civilization in places through which Ćiro was više desetljeća. driving, roaring, beating, whistling and blew off Narod je pruge zvao i štreke, a vlakove koje steam for decades. je vukla garava parnjača nazivao je gemišteri People used to call railways „štreke“, and trains (mješoviti vlakovi), šnelcug (brzi vlakovi) i osob- that were pulled by sooty steam locomotive were ni (putnički vlakovi). Nadimak Ćiro nametnut called „gemišteri“ (mixed trains), „šnelcug“ (fast je pred samo ukidanje uskotračnih pruga, ali u trains) and „personal“ (passenger trains). Nickna- narodu je ostao i dan danas kao prepoznatljiv. me Ćiro was imposed just before the abolition of Pruga uskog kolosijeka ili uskotračna pruga narrow gauge railway, but among people it has Gabela – Zelenika ukinuta je 1976. godine. remained recognizable to this day. Za vrijeme postojanja uskotračna željeznička Railroad with narrow gauge or narrow gauge pruga promijenila je pet državnih uređenja. railway Gabela - Zelenika was abolished in 1976. Na nekadašnjoj trasi i danas su vidljivi ostaci During the existence of narrow gauge railway, five nekadašnje pruge, njezinih postaja, kolosijeka, polities have changed. tunela, mostova, zgrada itd. Uspomene koje se On the former route there are still visible remains prvenstveno odnose na ovu dionicu još i danas of the old railway, its stations, tracks, tunnels, brid- su tako vidljive među lokalnim stanovništvom ges, buildings, etc. Memories that are primarily ovih krajeva odnosno predjela kojim je ova related to this section are even today very visible pruga prolazila. Kako bi se bar djelomično among the local population of these areas or regi- sačuvala uspomena na ovu prugu koja se vukla ons through which this railway passed. In order to, kroz prekrasne predjele južne i jugoistočne Her- at least partly, preserve the memory of this railway cegovine, južne Hrvatske i Crne Gore osmišljen that dragged through the beautiful landscapes je projekt revitalizacije uskotračne pruge kroz of southern and south-eastern Herzegovina, uspostavljanje biciklističke trase koja bi oživjela southern Croatia and Montenegro, the project ove krajeve te osnažila i povezala njihovu was designed for revitalization of narrow gauge turističku ponudu. railway through the establishment of bicycle route that would revive these areas and to enhance and integrate their tourism offer. Biciklistička trasa/ 2 3 Bicycle route Područje Mostara/ Mostar area

Biciklistička trasa od Mostara do Ivanice, koja Bicycle route from Mostar to Ivanica, which is located je od Dubrovnika udaljena desetak kilometara, about ten kilometers away from Dubrovnik, is 134 iznosi 134 kilometra, a s odvojkom u mjestu kilometers long, and including a branch in Hum Hum prema Trebinju ukupno 152 kilometra. towards Trebinje, 152 kilometers in total. The route Trasa uglavnom prolazi kroz ruralna područja, a mainly passes through rural areas, it is adjusted for prilagođena je i za cestovne i za brdske bicikle, both, road and mountain bikes, which means that što znači da na nekim dionicama trase postoje on some sections of the route there are options on opcije kojim putom krenuti ka odredištu, ili which way to use giong towards the destination, asfaltnom podlogom ili makadamom. Trasa je either paved or macadam road. The route is mostly većim dijelom ravničarska i samo se na dionici lowland and only on the section from Dračevo, or od Dračeva, odnosno Svitave u općini Čapljina Svitava in the Municipality of Čapljina to Hutovo pa do Hutova u općini Neum nalazi duži uspon in the Municipality of Neum there is a long rise gdje se trasa penje na 414, odnosno 310 me- where the route climbs to 414 or 310 meters above tara nadmorske visine, ovisno od toga je li se sea level, depending on whether you climb using trasom penje asfaltnom dionicom preko Svitave paved section through Svitava or macadam section ili makadamskom dionicom preko Brštanice. through Brštanica. Biciklistička trasa počinje na Španjolskom trgu Bicycle route starts at the Spanish Square in u Mostaru, nedaleko od stare željezničke stani- Mostar, near the old train station, and passes by ce, i prolazi pored Starog grada gdje se nalazi the Old Town where Old Bridge is situated, the , svjetski poznati kameni srednjovje- world-famous stone medieval monument, which kovni spomenik, koji spaja lijevu i desnu obalu connects left and right banks of Herzegovinian hercegovačkog bisera - rijeke Neretve. pearl - River. Put se iz Mostara prema Čapljini nastavlja pro- The road from Mostar to Čapljina continues pa- lazeći kroz Bišće polje te kanjon rijeke Neretve ssing through Bišće Polje and canyon of Neretva i uz sadašnju modernu željezničku prugu. Na River and along the current modern railway line. ulasku u kanjon proteže se prekrasni pogled At the entrance to the canyon a beautiful view na Bunske kanale i ušće rijeke Bune u Neretvu. stretches on the channels of River and the Izvorište Bune, udaljeno samo pet kilometara, mouth of Buna River into Neretva River. Source of jedno je od najvećih i zasigurno najljepših u Eu- the Buna River, only five kilometers away, is one ropi. Voda izbija ispod litice duge 200 metara of the largest and surely most beautiful in Europe. i svojom količinom samostalno formira rijeku Water flows out of the 200 meters long cliff and Bunu. Tekija na vrelu Bune izgrađena u 16. its volume alone creates the Buna River. Tekke on stoljeću za potrebe derviškog reda, a i danas the Buna River was built in the 16th century for je najmističnije mjesto u Bosni i Hercegovini. the Dervish, and it is still the most mystical place Iznad Blagaja izdiže se srednjovjekovno zdanje in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Above Blagaj rises a Stjepan grad, koje je nastalo na kasnoantičkoj medieval building, Stjepan Town, which was built utvrdi. To je bila gradska palača, opasana tvrdim on the late antique fortress. It was the city palace, bedemima s nazubljenim vrhovima koji su i surrounded by hard rampart with jaggy peaks danas vidljivi. Postoji i legenda koja kaže da which are still visible today. There is a legend je u njemu herceg Stjepan navodno zakopao that says Herceg Stjepan allegedly buried his svoje blago… tako je i grad dobio ime po blagu treasure there ... so the city got its name by the herceg Stjepana-Blagaj. Kod Bunskih kanala treasure of Herceg Stjepan - Blagaj. By channels cestovnim biciklistima nudi se mogućnost da of Buna River road cyclists will have the opportu- do Čapljine idu alternativnim putom, odnosno nity to use alternative route to Čapljina, which is magistralnim putom. the main road. 4 Područje Čitluka i Čapljine/ 4 5 Čitluk and Čapljina area

Na par kilometara dalje od Bunskih kanala, ne- Few kilometers away from channels of Buna daleko od biciklističke trase, nalazi se manastir River, not far from the bicycle route, there is the Žitomislić, jedan od najznačajnijih pravoslavnih monastery Žitomislić, one of the most important manastira Hercegovine iz 16. stoljeća. Orthodox monasteries in Herzegovina from the Trasom se dalje dolazi do Šurmanaca u čapljin- 16th century. skoj općini gdje se nalazi odvojak za Međugor- Route continues to Šurmanci in the Municipality je, marijansko i svjetsko molitveno središte koje of Čapljina, and there is a branch towards Među- se često uspoređuje s Lourdesom i Fatimom. S gorje, Marian and world famous prayer center druge pak strane rijeke Neretve, trasa prolazi that is often compared to Lourdes and Fatima. naspram srednjovjekovne tvrđave i starog On the other side of the Neretva River, the route grada Počitelja. Poseban je to građevni tip u passes against the medieval fortress and the old hercegovačkom kršu. Slikovita gomila kuća u town of Počitelj. It is a special building type in dubokoj i strmoj koritastoj dragi, a naokolo se Herzegovina karst. A picturesque pile of houses dižu s bedemi i kule. in a deep and steep manger-like pothole, with Od Počitelja trasa dalje vodi kroz krševitu sutje- ramparts and towers rising around. sku kraj Dretelja, nakon čega ulazi u Čapljinu. From Počitelj onwards, route leads through the U blizini tog mjesta nalaze slapovi se Kravica, rugged gorge along and then enters to najinteresantnija prirodna znamenitost regije. Čapljina. In the vicinity of the town there are Voda rijeke Trebižat na tom mjestu se razbuđuje waterfalls Kravica, the most interesting natural i pada s visine od 30 metara stvarajući prirodni attraction of the region. Water of Trebižat River on amfiteatar širine 150 metara. that place stures up and drops from the height U Čapljini postoji odvojak i za mjesto Stolac na of 30 meters creating a natural 150 meters wide čijem se području nalazi povijesni grad Daor- amphitheater. son. Daorson (grč. ΔΑΟΡΣΩΝ) je bio glavni In Čapljina there is also a branch for Stolac and on grad heleniziranog ilirskog plemena Daorsa that area there is historic city Daorson. Daorson koji su živjeli od 300. do 50. godine prije Krista (Gr. ΔΑΟΡΣΩΝ) was the capital of the Hellenized u dolini rijeke Neretve. Tri kilometra zapadno Illyrian tribe Daors who lived from 300 to 50 BC od Stoca, u Vidovu polju, nalazi se Nekropola in the valley of the Neretva River. Three kilometers stećaka Radimlja. Po brojnosti primjeraka, west from Stolac in Vidovo Polje there is Necropo- raznovrsnosti i zastupljenosti svih osnovnih lis Radimlja. Based on the number units, diversity oblika, relativno visokoj umjetničkoj kvaliteti and presence of all basic forms, relatively high izrade, nekropola Radimlja spada u najvrjednije artistic quality of creation, Necropolis Radimlja spomenike srednjovjekovnog razdoblja u BiH. is one of the most valuable monuments of the Inače, u središtu Čapljine, na sadašnjem medieval period in BiH. gradskom trgu, bila je kolodvorska zgrada koja In the center of Čapljina, on the present square, je porušena 1998. godine. Ostala su samo četiri there was the station building which was demo- platana koji čuvaju uspomenu na uskotračnu lished in 1998. There are only four plane trees željezničku prugu. Zadnji Ćiro kroz Čapljinu that preserve the memory of the narrow gauge protutnjao je 6.11.1966. godine. railway. Last Ćiro thundered through Čapljina on Na izlazu iz središta Čapljine trasa prolazi November 6, 1966. pokraj starog utvrđenog dvorca Mogorjela iz On the way out of the center of Čapljina route vremena Oktavijana Augusta, koji je otkriven passes near the old fortified castle Mogorjelo prilikom izgradnje pruge Metković - Mostar from the time of Octavian Augustus, which was (1884.-1885.). Arheološki spomenik iz rimskog discovered during the construction of the railway doba nastao je na temeljima kasnoantičke ville Metković - Mostar (1884-1885). Archaeological rustica koja je izgrađena na ruševinama starije monument from Roman period was built on the suburbane vile. foundations of a late antique villa rustica, which Ispod Čapljine i Mogorjela staza prelazi rijeku was built on the ruins of older suburban villa. Trebižat te dolazi u Gabelu za koju meksikanski Down from Čapljina and Mogorjelo trail crosses 6

povjesničar Robert Salinas tvrdi da je nekadaš- the Trebižat River and comes to Gabela which, nja lokacija antičke Troje. Ime Gabela dolazi od according to Mexican historian Robert Salinas, talijanske riječi gabella, što znači carina, budući used to be the location of ancient Troy. Name da je tu nekada bila granica između mletačke Gabela comes from the Italian word gabella, i osmanlijske vlasti. Tu se nalaze i ušća rijeka which means customs duties, since it was once Trebižat, i u rijeku Neretvu. the border between the Venetian and Ottoman U Gabeli se nalazi stari željeznički kolodvor rule. There are also mouths of the rivers Trebižat, koji je bio postaja za željezničke pruge uskog Bregava and Krupa into the Neretva River. kolosijeka (0,76 m) Gabela – Zelenika u Boki In Gabela there is an old station which was a Kotorskoj (Crna Gora), Hum – Trebinje i Uskoplje terminal for narrow gauge railway (0.76 m) – Gruž u Dubrovniku (Republika Hrvatska). Bile Gabela - Zelenika in Bay of Kotor (Montenegro), su to pruge prvenstveno vojnostrateškog zna- Hum - Trebinje and Uskoplje - Gruž in Dubrovnik čaja puštene u promet u srpnju 1901. godine. (Croatia). Those were railways with primarily mili- Za stalno prestaje s radom 31. svibnja 1976. tary and strategic importance opened for traffic in godine, kada je ukinuta pruga Čapljina – Du- July 1901. It permanently stopped operating on brovnik u Republici Hrvatskoj te Hum – Nikšić u 31 May, 1976, when railway Čapljina - Dubrovnik Republici Crnoj Gori. in Croatia and Hum - Nikšić in Montenegro was Od Gabele se trasa odvaja prema jugoistoku i abolished. rijeku Neretvu prelazi preko starog željezničkog From Gabela the route heads toward south-east mosta Tresana, dalje ide preko mosta Krupa and crosses Neretva River over the old railway i istoimene rijeke, te ulazi u mjesto Dračevo bridge Tresana, then goes on over the bridge gdje prolazi ispod magistralnog puta M-17. Krupa and the eponymous river, and enters to U Dračevu se biciklistička trasa račva na dvije Dračevo where it passes under the highway M-17. dionice, asfaltnu koja se uspinje od Svitave In Dračevo bicycle route splits into two sections, do Hutova, te makadamsku koja prati trasu the paved one that climbs from Svitava to Hutovo stare uskotračne pruge preko visokih podzida, and macadam one that follows the route of the nasipa, kroz duboke usjeke do 19 kilometara old narrow gauge railway over high retaining udaljenog bivšeg željezničkog kolodvora u walls, dikes, through deep cuts to the former Hutovu. Asfaltna dionica preko Svitave prolazi railway station in Hutovo, 19 kilometers away. uz selo gdje su otkriveni ostaci rimske Paved section over Svitava passes by the village 6 7

vile, ljetnikovca nekog bogatog Italca. U selu Sjekose where the remains of a Roman summer- nalaze se jezero i izvor Desilo koje u house of some rich Italic was descovered. In the svojim dubinama čuva ilirske i rimske brodove village Bajovci there is the lake and the source i amfore, a u Svitavi se mogu naći ostaci rimske Desilo that preserves Illyrian and Roman ships vile Dvorišta. Na ovoj dionici nalazi se i Svetište and amphorae in its depths, and in Svitava the Kraljice Mira - Hrasno. remains of a Roman villa Dvorišta can be found. Makadamska dionica trase od Dračeva ide At this section, there is the Shrine of the Queen of usporedo s Parkom prirode „“ i Peace - Hrasno. s trase se pruža spektakularan pogled na taj The macadam section of the route from Dračevo najveći ornitološki park u Europi, koji je oaza goes alongside Nature Park “Hutovo Blato” and prirode sa sedam jezera i rijekom Krupom. Ma- offers a spectacular view on the largest ornitholo- kadamska trasa pruža se „Bregovim“ obroncima gical park in Europe, which is a natural oasis with gore Žabe, i povezuje bivše željezničke postaje seven lakes and Krupa RIver. Gravel route stret- Sjekose, Hrasno i kolodvor Hutovo. Na ovoj dio- ches, and connects the former railway stations Sje- nici nalazi se 10 ručno prokopanih tunela uku- kose, Hrasno and Hutovo station. On this section, pne dužine 1441,40 metara te dva mosta, od there are 10 tunnels dug by hand, in total length kojih je najpoznatiji Štangerova ćuprija za koju of 1441.40 meters and two bridges, and the most je projekt potpisao čuveni Eiffel, tvorac Eifelova famous is „Štangerova Ćuprija“ whose project tornja u Parizu. S obzirom na uspon od 18 was signed by the famous Eiffel, creator of Eifel promila, na ovoj su dionici teže vlakove vukle Tower in Paris. Due to rise of 18 per thousand, on po dvije lokomotive, a lokomotiva kao potisak this section heavier trains were pulled by two lo- gurala je vlak od pozadi. Po dolasku na postaju comotives, and one locomotive was pushing the Hrasno lokomotive su se namirivale ugljenom train from behind as a thrust. Upon arrival to the i vodom iz rezervoara preko napojnika („gran“). station Hrasno locomotives were supplied by coal Cisterna/rezervoar jedinstvena je građevina na and water from the reservoir through water tower prugama u Bosni i Hercegovini i šire. To je bila („gran“). Cistern/tank is unique building on the najveća građevina primijenjenoga armiranoga railways in Bosnia and Herzegovina and beyond. betona u hidrotehnici u ovome dijelu Europe. It was the largest structure of reinforced concrete applied in hydraulics in this part of Europe. Područje Neuma/ 8 Neum area

Sljedeće mjesto kroz koje trasa prolazi je The next place along the route is Hutovo, and it Hutovo, a nalazi se na 60-tak kilometara od is located around 60 kilometers from Mostar and Mostara te 22 kilometra od Neuma, poznatog 22 kilometers from Neum, well known summer bosanskohercegovčkog ljetovališta. Hutovo je resort in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Hutovo is prelijepo mjesto s mnoštvom starih kamenih a beautiful place with numerous old stone zgrada, Starim hutovskim gradom, Zavičajnom buildings and remains of an ancient village. kućom Hutovo te ostacima antičkog sela. Tu There is also a late antiquity site Crkvine with the je i kasnoantički lokalitet Crkvine s ostacima remains of a church and necropolis with more crkve i nekropolom s više od 100 stećaka. than 100 tombstones. Alongside Hutovo, remains Pokraj Hutova i danas se vide ostaci starog of the old which led from Ston to Bosnia can be Puta soli koji je vodio od Stona prema Bosni. U seen even today. In Hutovo there is an old railway Hutovu se nalazi stari željeznički kolodvor koji station that had four tracks and military barrier je imao četiri kolosijeka i vojnu rampu uz slijepi along the dead-end track (šturc) and Heizen kolosijek (šturc) i Heizen (grijati) ložionicu koja (heat) stokehold which was later converted partly je kasnije pretvorena dijelom u robno skladište to commodity warehouse and residential area. i stambeni prostor. Kolodvor je mogao primati Station could and two. From Hutovo to Čapljina vlakove do 90 osovina i dvije radne lokomotive. and vice versa drove the local train L19 and in Iz Hutova za Čapljinu i obratno vozio je lokalni other direction L20 called Boko by personal name vlak L19 i obratno L20 zvani Boko po osobnom Boko common in this area. Upon leaving Hutovo imenu Boko čestom u ovome kraju. bicycle route again splits into two sections, one Po izlasku iz Hutova biciklistička trasa ponovno paved and the other macadam, which merge se račva na dvije dionice, jednu asfaltnu i drugu again in Donji Zelenikovac where the old railway makadamsku, koje se opet spajaju u Donjem stop Zelenikovac is. Macadam route to Donji Zele- Zelenkovcu gdje se nalazi staro željezničko nikovac offers a wonderful view of the landscape stajalište Zelenikovac. S makadamske trase do of one of the largest karst fields in Europe. On Donjeg Zelenikovca pruža se predivan pogled this 3.5 kilometers long section there is one of na kraj Popova polja, jednog od najvećih the few „šenderauz“ (guard house) from where kraških polja u Europi. Na ovoj dionici, dugoj the artificial lake Vrutak can be seen. It is the lake 3.5 kilometra, nalazi se i jedan od rijetkih filled with water of Trebišnjica River flowing in šenderauza (čuvarske kuće) s kojeg se može concrete canals (its former riverbed) in length of vidjeti vještačko jezero Vrutak. Riječ je o jezeru 68 km to Trebinje. Concrete canal is the largest koje se puni vodom rijeke Trebišnjice koja teče concrete slab in the world. betoniranim kanalom (njenim bivšim koritom) dužine 68 km do Trebinja. Betonirani kanal je najveća betonska ploča na svijetu. Područje Neuma/ 8 9 Neum area

Nakon Zelenikovca se obodom Popova polja After Zelenikovac, on the edge of Popovo Polje, proteže prema Ravnom i prolazi pored starih the route stretches towards Ravno and passes željezničkih postaja u Turkovićima i Veljoj Međi by the old railway stations in Turkovići and Velja te stajališta Trnčina i Dvrsnica. Nakon 90-tak Međa and stops Trnčina and Dvrsnica. After about kilometara od Mostara dolazi se u mjesto Rav- 90 kilometers from Mostar you arrive in place no - pitomo, strmo postavljeno hercegovačko called Ravno - gentle, steeply Herzegovinian pla- mjesto izgrađeno od kamena sa srednjovjekov- ce built of stone, with the medieval church of St. nom crkvom Svetog Mitra. Ravno je općinsko Mitar. Ravno is the municipal center, administra- središte, upravno i kulturno središte Popova tive and cultural center of Popovo Polje. In front polja. Pred zgradom Općinskog vijeća velebni of the building of the Municipal Council there je spomenik najvećem hrvatskom učenjaku i is majestic monument to the greatest Croatian svećeniku Josipu Ruđeru Boškoviću postavljen scholar and priest Josip Ruđer Bošković set up 2011. godine u povodu tristote obljetnice nje- in 2011 on the occasion of the three hundredth gova rođenja. Josipov otac rođen je u Orahovu anniversary of his birth. Josip's father was born Dolu u općini Ravno. U mjestu je bila kolod- in Orahov Dol in Municipality of Ravno. In that vorska zgrada, a sada je ugostiteljsko-turistički place there was a station building, and now it is objekt. Na postaji su bila tri stanična kolosijeka hospitality and tourist facility. At the station there i mogla je primati vlakove s 90 osovina. Osim were three station tracks and it could serve trains prijamne zgrade, ostala je i zgrada staničnog with 90 axles. Apart from the reception building, robnog magazina. the building of station merchandise magazine Biciklistička trasa se od Ravnog dalje spu- also remained. šta prema Zavali i odmah nakon izlaska iz mjesta trasa se po treći puta račva na asfaltni i makadamski dio. Dionica makadamske trase spušta se Malom Dubravicom i brdom Ljuljevac niz najdužu podzidu na trasi (oko 500 m), sa padom od 12 promila. Na tom dijelu je željezni most/vijadukt koji premošćuje duboku usjekli- nu kanjona. S vijadukta staza ulazi u tunel Gra- dina L= 340,75 m. Pred samim ulazom u tunel je kamena oznaka 224. km pruge od Sarajeva. Tunel je probijen za godinu dana, a trenut- no je u njemu veliko stanište šišmiša, zbog čega se na ulazu makadamska dionica trase završava. Isto je i sa druge strane tunela, otkuda se makadamska trasa proteže do Zavale. Inače, cijelom dionicom od Ravnog do Zavale prikazuju se spektakularni pejzaži Popovog polja koje se proteže desetke kilometara prema Trebinju. Mjesto Zavala udaljeno je sedam kilometara od Ravnog i nedaleko od mjesta nalazi se nada- leko čuvena špilja Vjetrenica, koja je od 1952. godine zaštićeni prirodni spomenik. Također, u ovom se mjestu nalazi i manastirska crkva Vavedenja Bogorodice te Crkva svetog Petra (ostaci katoličke crkve). U Zavali je bila željeznič- ka postaja. Prijamna zgrada i kolosiječni prostor izgrađen je na visokoj podzidi s propustom. 10

Kada je podzida građena, caru u Beč poručeno Bicycle route from Ravno continues down to je kako se ne može izgraditi. Odgovorio je pita- Zavala and immediately after leaving the place njem „Može li kilo kamena, kilo zlata? Može. I the route divides for the third time on paved and izgrađena je. U Zavali su stajali svi lokalni, put- macadam section. Macadam section of the route nički i brzi vlakovi radi „skele“ s vlaka na more goes down Mala Dubravica and hill Ljuljevac u Slano u Hrvatskoj. Zanimljivo je spomenuti along the longest retaining wall (around 500 m) da je do ukidanja pruge 1975. iz Dubrovnika za on the route, with the decline of 12 per thousand. Zavalu u ljetnoj sezoni u popodnevnim satima On that part there is an iron bridge/viaduct that svaki dan vozio po jedan turistički vlak. spans a deep cleft of the canyon. From viaduct the route enters tunnel Gradina L = 340.75 m. Just before the entrance to the tunnel there is a stone marking of 224th km of railway from Sarajevo. The tunnel has been broken through in a year, and it is currently a large bat habitat, which is why at the entrance macadam section of the route ends. It is the same on the other side of the tunnel, from where macadam route extends to Zavala. In general, along the entire section from Ravno to Zavala there are spectacular landscapes of Popovo Polje that extends on tens of kilome- ters towards Trebinje. Place called Zavala is situated seven kilometers from the Ravno and not far away from the place, there is widely known cave Vjetrenica, which is protected natural monument since 1952. More- over, in this place there is the monastery church of Introduction of the Virgin and the Church of St. Peter (remains of the Catholic Church). In Zavala there was the railway station. Reception building and rails area were built on high retaining wall with. When the retaining wall was built, the emperor in Vienna was told that it couldn’t be built. He answered with a question „How about a kilo of stone, a kilo of gold?“ Yes. And it was built. In Zavala all local, passenger and high-speed trains made a stop in order to „scaffold“ to train to seaside in Slano in Croatia. It is interesting to mention that until the abolition of the railway in 1975 from Dubrovnik to Zavala, in the summer season on afternoons one tourist train would drive every day. Trebinje/ 10 11 Trebinje

Nakon Zavale biciklistička trasa vodi izo- After Zavala bicycle route leads on contour hipsom po obodu Popovog polja kroz line along the edge of Popovo Polje through Grmljane, Poljice, Dikliće, Gojšinu, Jasenica– Grmljani, Poljice, Diklići, Gojšina, Jasenica-Lug, Lug, Đediće, te stiže do nekadašnjeg glavnog Đedići and reaches the former main railway željezničkog čvorišta na tom djelu trase, kolod- hub in this part of the route, station Hum, with vora Hum, s velikim brojem staničnih zgrada a large number of station buildings constructed izgrađenih od hercegovačkog ručno klesanog of hand-carved Herzegovinian stone. From Hum kamena. Od Huma pruga se odvajala za railway was divided for Trebinje and further to Trebinje i dalje za Bileću, za Nikšić i Podgoricu Bileća, to Nikšić and Podgorica in Montenegro, u Crnoj Gori, te prema Dubrovniku u Hrvatskoj and to Dubrovnik in Croatia and Herceg Novi in i Herceg Novom u Crnoj Gori. Stanični prostor Montenegro. Station area on train station Hum kolodvora Hum izgrađen je na Bjelinu dolu, was built on Bijelin Dol, the place where caravan mjestu na kojem su se od antike i srednjeg routes were crossed from antiquity and the vijeka križali karavanski putovi. I biciklistička middle ages. Bicycle route splits here as well, trasa se ovdje račva, u jednom smjeru prema one way to Trebinje 17 kilometers away, and in 17 kilometara udaljenom Trebinju, a u dru- the other direction to Dubrovnik, which is only gom smjeru prema Dubrovniku koji je udaljen about 20 kilometers away from Hum. 20-tak kilometara od Huma. In the direction of Trebinje there is still a U pravcu Trebinja pruža se i dalje prekrasan beautiful view of Popovo Polje, Trebinje forest, pogled na Popovo polje, Trebinjsku šumu, te and numerous surrounding hills and mountains brojna okolna brda i planine od kojih je domi- and the dominant one is Bjelašnica (Popovska) nantna Bjelašnica (popovska) i Ostrog. U blizini and Ostrog. Nearby on the rocks, four kilometers se na stijenama, četiri kilometra od Trebinja, from Trebinje, Tvrdoš is situated, one of the most nalazi Tvrdoš, jedan od najznačajnijih manastira significant monasteries of the Serbian Orthodox Srpske pravoslavne crkve, sjedište hercegovač- Church, residence of Herzegovinian bishops and kog episkopa i mitropolita. Željeznički kolodvor metropolitans. In Trebinje, the railway station was u Trebinju bio jedan od važnijih na trasi i bio je one of the most important on the route and it smješten uz rijeku Trebišnjicu. Imao je šest ko- was located along the Trebišnjica River. It had six losijeka i slijepe 7. i 8. za robni i vojni magazin. tracks and dead end 7 and 8 for merchandise and Posjedovao je i do 25 lokomotiva parnjača, a od military magazine. It had up to 25 steam engine 1970 i dizel-hidraulične lokomotive serije 740. locomotives, and from 1970 diesel-hydraulic loco- Ostala je jedna parnjača serije 83 kao muzej- motives of series 740 as well. There is one steam ski eksponat. Inače, Trebinje je grad bogate locomotive of series 83 as a museum piece. In kulturne povijesti. Brojni spomenici iz razdoblja general, Trebinje is a city rich in cultural history. Rimskog carstva, Otomanske i Austro-Ugarske Numerous monuments from the time of the Ro- imperije, kao i vjerski objekti, danas se mogu man Empire, the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian pronaći na području grada i okolice. Empire, as well as religious objects, can now be found in the city and surrounding areas. Područje Huma i Ivanice/ 12 Hum and Ivanica area

Iz Huma se biciklistička trasa proteže prema From Hum bicycle route stretches to the Medi- mediteranskom biseru Dubrovniku, čiji se terranean jewel Dubrovnik, whose old city, as well Stari grad, kao i Stari grad u Mostaru, nalazi na as the Old City of Mostar, is on UNESCO's list of popisu svjetske kulturne baštine UNESCO-a. Na World Heritage Sites. On the way to Dubrovnik putu do Dubrovnika trasa prolazi kroz Uskoplje route passes through Uskoplje, and from there iz kojeg su izlazile dvije pruge koje su išle na two railways that went to east and south emer- istok i jug. Zelenička pruga od izlazne je skret- ged. On the exit turn railway Zelenička curved to nice skretala lijevo ispod sela Uskoplja i svijala the left, below the village Uskoplje, and flexed se brdom uz uspon od 17,5 promila prema along the hill with a rise of 17.5 per thousand Glavskoj i dalje za Zeleniku u Boki kotorskoj. towards Glavska and further to Zelenica in the Bay Druga pruga je izlazila u pravcu Ivanice, te of Kotor. Other railway came out in the direction kroz tunel ulazila u Republiku Hrvatsku, pa sa towards Ivanica where it entered The Republic of nagibom od 27,8 promila niz serpentine išla Croatia through the tunnel, and with the descent prema Dubrovniku. of 27.8 per thousand went down the serpentine to Dubrovnik. Informacije/ 12 13 Information Kada putujete u Bosnu i Hercegovinu sa sobom When traveling to Bosnia and Herzegovina you morate ponijeti putovnicu. Za većinu putnika, need to bring your passport. For most trevelers, osim iz zemalja članica Europske Unije, SAD-a i apart from the Member States of the European Kanade, potrebna je viza koja se može dobiti u Union, the United States and Canada, a visa is konzularnim predstavništvima i /veleposlanstvi- required which can be obtained in the consular ma/ambasadama Bosne i Hercegovine širom offices and / Embassies / Embassies of Bosnia svijeta. Cijene viza koje se izdaju u diplomatsko and Herzegovina around the world. Prices of visas konzularnim predstavništvima: issued in diplomatic and consular missions: - Pojedinačna i tranzitna viza koštaju 31EUR. - Single and transit visa cost 31 EUR. - Viza za više ulazaka u zemlju u trajanju do 90 - A visa for multiple entries into the country for dana košta 57 EUR. up to 90 days costs 57 EUR. - Viza za više ulazaka u zemlju u trajanju preko - A visa for multiple entries into the country for a 90 dana košta 72 EUR. period over 90 days costs 72 EUR. Uz putovnicu, ako putujete osobnim vozilom, Beside the passport, if traveling by car, it is potrebno je imati međunarodnu vozačku necessary to have an international driving license dozvolu i zeleni karton. and green card. U Bosni i Hercegovini valuta je Konvertibilna In Bosnia and Herzegovina the currency is Conver- marka (KM). tible Mark (KM). Tečaj prema EUR-u je; 1 EUR = 1,956 KM. The exchange rate against the euro is; Zamjenu možete izvršiti u svakoj banci ili 1 EURO = 1,956 KM. mjenjačnici. Exchange can be made at any bank or exchan- Maksimalna dozvoljena brzina kretanja vozila ge office. je 90 km/h izvan naseljenih mjesta, a u naselje- Permitted speed of the vehicles: Maximum speed nim mjestima 50 km/h. of the vehicle is 90 km/h outside inhabited areas, Radno vrijeme: Uobičajeno radno vrijeme je and 50 km/h in inhabited areas. od 8 do 16 sati. Najveći dio trgovina radi Opening hours: Normal working hours are from 8 od 7 do 19 sati. a.m. to 4 p.m. Most shops are opened from 7 a.m. Za pokretne telefone postoje tri operatera; to 7 p.m.. GSMBIH – 061; ERONET- 063 i MOBIS – 065. For mobile phones, there are three operators; GSM BIH - 061; ERONET- 063 and MOBIS - 065th

Korisni brojevi telefona: Useful telephone numbers: Informacije /Information 1188, 1182 Poziv u hitnim slučajevima /Emergency calls 112 Policija /Police 122 Vatrogasci /Fire department 123 Hitna pomoć /Emergency 124 Točno vrijeme /Exact time 125 Međunarodni razgovori /International calls 1201 Buđenje /Waking up 1400, 1401 REPUBLIKA HRVATSKA/ 14 REPUBLIC OF CROATIA Ćiro u Konavlima/ Ćiro in Konavle

Dionica željeznice Sarajevo - Zelenika je prola- Section of the railway Sarajevo - Zelenika passed zila i kroz Konavle i to u dužini od 33 kilometra through Konavle in a length of 33 kilometers, prolazeći kroz slijedeće stanice: Vojski Do, going through the following stations: Vojski Do, Mihanići, Cavtat, Čilipi, Komaji, Gruda, Pločice Mihanići, Cavtat, Čilipi, Komaji, Gruda, Pločice and i Nagumac. Željeznica je imala veliki utjecaj Nagumac. The railway had a major impact on the na razvoj Konavala jer je do Drugog svjetskog development of Konavle because until the World rata služila za snabdijevanje ovog područja War II it was used to supply this area with constru- građevinskim materijalom, prehrambenom i ction materials, food and technical goods, and on tehničkom robom, a na željeznici je bilo zapo- the railway about 120 workers were employed. sleno i oko 120 radnika. In the period of the World War I railway had major U razdoblju Prvog svjetskog rata željeznica je military use because it supplied an important imala većinski vojnu namjenu jer je snabdijeva- naval base in the Bay of Kotor, and because of its la važnu vojno-pomorsku bazu u Boki Kotor- geo-strategic importance, section of the railway skoj, a zbog svoje geostrateške važnosti dionica line through Konavle has been repeatedly attac- željezničke pruge kroz Konavle bila je više puta ked from the sea. i napadnuta s mora. Transporting over 150 passengers a day, Prevozeći preko 150 putnika dnevno, svoj railway reached its peak after the World War vrhunac željeznička pruga je doživjela nakon II when it used to bring to Konavle food Drugog svjetskog rata kada je u Konavle commodities, fertilizers and other resources dovodila prehrambenu robu, umjetna gnojiva needed for agriculture and viticulture, as well i ostala sredstva potrebna za poljoprivredu i as livestock and forage, while from Konavle vinogradarstvo, kao i stoku i stočnu hranu, dok area to Sarajevo it transported large amounts je s područja Konavala u Sarajevo odvozila of fruits and vegetables. velike količine voća i povrća. Construction of the Adriatic highway and Airport Izgradnja Jadranske magistrale i Zračne luke Čilipi led to a decrease in rail traffic due to which, Čilipi dovodi do pada prometa željeznicom on 1 July 1968, this section is shut down. After zbog čega se 1. srpnja 1968. godine ova the popular Ćiro, as locals used to call the train relacija zatvara. Nakon što je popularni Ćiro, that was passing the railway, passed the railway kako su lokalni stanovnici nazivali vlak koji je for the last time, infrastructure, such as rails, prolazio prugom, posljednji put prošao prugom sleepers, stations and magazines are sold out. infrastruktura, poput tračnica, pragova, stanica i Section Vojski Do – Mihanići offers a magnificent magazina se rasprodaje. view of Konavle, especially Konavle field with Dionicom Vojski Do – Mihanići puca prekrasan numerous vineyards. The cultivation of grapes pogled na Konavle, posebno Konavosko polje is a tradition since the late 17th century and in s brojnim vinogradima. Uzgoj vinove loze je vineyards of Konavle predominant are Merlot, tradicija još od kraja 17. stoljeća a konavoskim Maraština and Malvasia Dubrovačka, but also vinogradima prevladavaju Merlot, Maraština Grk, Zinfandel Crljenak, Pošip, Plavac… i Malvasija dubrovačka, ali i Grk, Zinfandel Crlje- Not far from Vojski Do, which was the first train nak, Pošip, Plavac... station in Konavle, in a place called Brotnice the- Nedaleko od Vojskog Dola, koji je bio prva re is one of the richest sites of Stećci in Croatia. željeznička stanica u Konavlima, u mjestu Stećci are tombstones carved with scenes from Brotnice nalazi se jedno od najbogatijih the life of the deceased and with descriptions nalazišta stećaka u Hrvatskoj. Stećci su kameni wrote in medieval letter Bosančica, which nadgrobni spomenici s isklesanim prizorima indicate one or sometimes more graves. The first iz života pokojnika te natpisima ispisanim tombstones occur in the second half of the 12th 14 15

srednjovjekovnim pismom bosančicom, a koji century, but the most characteristic are ones označavaju jedan, ali ponekad i više grobova. from the period of 14th and 15th century. Prvi stećci se pojavljuju u drugoj polovici 12. In the tunnel Mihanići there is a large colony of stoljeća, ali najkarakterističniji su za razdoblje 2,700 bats. Due to the high level of endanger- 14. i 15. stoljeća. ment, bats are on the Red Book of Mammals U tunelu Mihanići nalazi se velika kolonija od of Croatia, so the passage through the tunnel 2.700 šišmiša. Zbog visokog stupnja ugro- is forbidden. At the southern entrance to the ženosti šišmiši se nalaze na Crvenom popisu tunnel a resting spot is set, where it is possible sisavaca Hrvatske, pa je i prolazak tunelom to enjoy a unique experience of bats observation zabranjen. Na južnom ulazu u tunel postavljeno – bat watching. je odmaralište na kojem je, posebno u sumrak, Section Zvekovica – Debeli Brijeg Sniježnica, the omogućeno jedinstveno uživanje u promatra- highest mountain (1234 meters) in Dubrov- nju šišmiša – bat watching. nik-Neretva County. Snijenžnica was named that Sa dionice Zvekovica – Debeli brijeg pruža se way because the snow lingered on its peaks until pogled na Sniježnicu, najvišu planinu (1234 the end of April, and in deep cracks and holes metra) u Dubrovačko-neretvanskoj županiji. much longer. The highest point of Sniježnica, Sniježnica je ime dobila po snijegu koji se peak Sveti Ilija, offers a view on Konavle field, nekoć na vrhovima zadržavao i do kraja travnja, the airport in Čilipi, Elafiti, Mljet, Korčula, Lastovo a po dubokim škrapama i jamama mnogo and Pelješac peninsula, as well as on the high duže. S najvišeg vrha Sniježnice, vrha Sveti Ilija, mountains of neighboring Bosnia and Herzegovi- pruža se pogled na Konavosko polje, zračnu na, and Montenegro. At the top there is a chapel luku u Čilipima, Elafite, Mljet, Korčulu, Lastovo i from the 19th century dedicated to St. Ilija - the poluotok Pelješac, kao i na susjedne bosansko - Thunderer. According to an ancient Croatian hercegovačke, i crnogorske, visoke planine. Na legend, name “Thunderer” came from the belief vrhu se nalazi kapelica iz 19. stoljeća posvećena that st. Ilija rides wagon on the clouds, causing a Sv. Iliji – Gromovniku. Prema starohrvatskoj le- thunderstorm. The chapel was rebuilt in the 20th gendi naziv „Gromovnik“ je došao iz uvjerenja century after it was destroyed by lightning. da sv. Ilija vozi kola po oblacima, zbog čega dolazi do grmljavine. Kapelica je obnovljena u 20. stoljeću nakon što ju je uništio grom. Informacije/ 16 Information Za putovanje u Hrvatsku potrebna je osobna For traveling to Croatia you need an ID card (for iskaznica (za putnike iz zemalja EU) ili putovni- travelers from EU countries) or passport (for tra- ca (za putnike koji nisu iz EU ili su iz trećih ze- velers who are not from the EU or are from third malja). Za neke zemlje potrebna je viza koja se countries). For some countries visa is required, može dobiti u konzularnim predstavništvima which can be obtained in the consular offices i /veleposlanstvima/ambasadama Republike and / Embassies / Embassies of Croatia around Hrvatske širom svijeta. Turistički boravak u the world. Touristic stay in Croatia is limited to Hrvatskoj ograničen je na tri mjeseca. three months. Uz putovnicu, ako putujete osobnim vozilom, Beside the passport, if traveling by car, it is ne- potrebno je imati međunarodnu vozačku cessary to have an international driving license dozvolu i zeleni karton. and green card. Vremenska zona: GMT plus jedan sat zimi, : GMT plus one hour in winter and GMT plus dva sata ljeti. GMT plus two hours in summer. U Hrvatskoj valuta je Kuna (HRK). The Croatian currency is the Kuna (HRK). Tečaj prema EUR-u je okvirno; The exchange rate against the Euro is approxi- 1 EUR = 7,6 HRK. mately; 1 EUR = 7.6 HRK. Zamjenu možete izvršiti u svakoj banci ili Exchange can be made at any bank or exchange mjenjačnici. office. Dozvoljena brzina kretanja vozila: Maksimalna Permitted speed of the vehicles: Maximum dozvoljena brzina kretanja vozilaje 90 km/h speed of the vehicle is 90 km/h outside inhabi- izvan naseljenih mjesta, ted areas, and 50 km/h in inhabited areas. a u naseljenim mjestima 50 km/h. Opening hours: Normal working hours are from Radno vrijeme: Uobičajeno radno vrijeme je 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Most shops are opened from 7 od 8 do 16 sati. Najveći dio trgovina radi a.m. to 8 p.m. od 7 do 20 sati. For mobile devices, there are five operators: Za mobilne uređaje postoji pet operatera: T-Mobile - 098 and 099, VIPnet - 091, TELE2 - T-Mobile – 098 i 099, VIPnet – 091, TELE2 – 095 Tomato - 092 and Bonbon – 097. 095, Tomato – 092 i Bonbon – 097. Country code for Croatia is +385. Pozivni broj za Hrvatsku je +385. During the tourist season Croatian Radio pro- Za vrijeme turističke sezone Hrvatski radio 2. gram 2 (HR2) during the day regularly delivers program (HR2) tijekom dana redovito donosi news and reports from Croatian Automobile vijesti i izvještaje Hrvatskog auto kluba Club (HAK) on traffic on several foreign langua- (HAK) o stanju u prometu na nekoliko stranih ges: English, German, Italian and Czech. jezika: engleskom, njemačkom, talijanskom i češkom jeziku.

Korisni brojevi telefona: Useful telephone numbers: Jedinstveni broj za hitne slučajeve: / Unique number for emergencies: 112 Policija /Police: 192 Vatrogasci /Fire department: 193 Hitna pomoć /Ambulance: 194 Pomoć na cesti /Roadside Assistance: 1987 Opće informacije /General information: 18981 Točno vrijeme /The exact time: 18095 Buđenje /Waking up: 18100