Locals' Lisbon
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✂ instant escapes CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I LOCALs’ LISBON SEE & DO Going down: the a sign saying Há Caracóis, pop in l The living is breezy along Elevador da Gloria and order it. The best in town are at yellow tram Lisbon’s waterfront . It’s easy to O Lutador (olutador.pt; 8 , a restaurant descending a steep ) explore on two wheels (it’s flatter street in Bairro in Alcântara packed with regulars. than the rest of the city) — and the Alto; below, the more you pedal, the more custard tarts Miradouro da Graça; l Skip busy sightseers’ tram No. 28 beach along the you can eat! Pick up a bike (lisbonbike Costa da Caparica, and instead take the No. 24, used rentals.com; from £22 a day; ( 1 on the locals’ fave mostly by residents. Ride it all the way map) then zip along the cycle lane to Campolide for a monument most from Cais do Sodré to Belém. Avoid visitors miss: the 65-metre-high the crowds by Jerónimos Monastery 2 Aqueduto das Aguas Livres 9 . and Belém Tower 3 and join locals High up, you’ll cross an 18th-century to enjoy an ‘imperial’ (a 20cl draught aqueduct, with dizzying views either beer) on a terrace, such as the one side, and peek into tunnels where next to Belém’s ferry 4 . water used to flow. l The Museu Nacional do Azulejo, l Another way to get a high is at the tile museum, isn’t just for tourists a miradouro, as Lisbon’s vertiginous (museudoazulejo.gov.pt; £4; 5 ). At viewpoints are called. At sunset, look weekends, families pour into this for one with a drinks kiosk, such as former 16th-century monastery Graça’s 10 . Or do as the locals do and to treat little ones to ceramic-painting combine home-cooked food with workshops. Finish up with a coffee a view at Cantina das Freiras (‘the nun’s in the beautiful tiled cafe. canteen’; Travessa Ferragial 1; 11 ), in Chiado. It has a spectacular terrace l Pastéis de nata, Lisbon’s signature facing the river and suspension bridge, custard tarts, are everywhere, but but is only open for lunch. Go at noon they’re not the only pastry you’ll find. to grab a seat before the workers Try bolas de Berlim (custard doughnuts) and students drift in. and cornucopia (‘convent’ sweets), filled with egg yolk and sugar. Try them at l Lisbon is lovely seen from the water. SAVOUR under-the-radar bakeries Casa dos THIS Instead of a touristy boat trip, take the Ovos Moles (casadosovosmolesem Be sure to £1.10 commuter ferry from Cais do sprinkle a lisboa.pt; 6 ) and Aloma (aloma.pt; 7 ). Sodré 1 to Cacilhas at the golden hour, generous portion just before sunset, with people heading of cinnamon on l Time for petiscos (think tapas). your pastéis de home or out for dinner. The 10-minute Favourites range from salt cod to pork, nata — as the voyage deposits you in a quaint instant but as soon as the weather warms up, locals do neighbourhood of old-fashioned it’s all about the caracóis: tiny snails pubs and seafood restaurants, scented escapes served in a broth of garlic and oregano, with fresh charcoal-grilled fish. Before sometimes with hot sauce. If you see dinner, check out the Dom Fernando Il e Glória (Dock No. 2, 150 metres from Cacilheiros ferry; £3.40; 12 ), a Portuguese naval warship where kids can act out pirate adventures. l From spring to autumn, Lisboetas Locals’ Lisbon flock to the beaches around Costa Go against the holidaymakers’ flow with our resident’s off-beat tips da Caparica 13 at the weekend. Take the train there, then hop in a taxi along the Setúbal Peninsula. (In summer, Whether cycling or reclining on a riverside terrace, Lisboetas like to get there’s a mini train that kids will love.) out and about. Some go jogging, some stroll, but the best-loved pursuit Tuck into fresh seafood on the beach at in the Portuguese capital is dining out. Small wonder, what with all the Praia da Princesa (praiaprincesa.com; mains about £14; 14 ), or try garlic-and- seafood and sweet pastries on offer! Don’t stick with the tourists — follow coriander clams at Borda d’Agua, on the locals and you’ll find your way to the real deal. By Célia Pedroso Praia da Morena (bordadagua.com.pt; mains about £16; 15 ), with a jug of white sangria. In warmer months, rent a lounger and snooze to the sound of Atlantic waves.> 134 SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL MARCH 2020 MARCH 2020 SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL 135 ✂ instant escapes CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I LOCALs’ LISBON EAT DRINK & SHOP l Fish fusion l Drink with a view A TabERNA DO MAR (Mains about £8) Rossio GastRobaR Because: Fusing Portuguese and Because: It’s the rooftop professionals AROUND Japanese flavours, Do Mar has a great THE CORNER flock to for after-work cocktails. It also tasting menu, the star of which is the You’re up high serves small plates crafted by a top sardine nigiri. Travel’s tip: Book at least here, just minutes local chef — the beef croquettes are from one of a week ahead. Calçada da Graça 20B; Lisbon’s best irresistible. Travel’s tip: Insist on a 00 351 21 093 9360, atabernado viewpoints fortified wine such as Moscatel Roxo, mar.negocio.site; 16 . — Miradoura da produced in Setúbal, south of Lisbon. Graça — so make Rua 1º de Dezembro 118; rossio the most of the l Factory food journey and take gastrobar.com; 21 . PRADO (Small plates about £8) a photograph! Because: Nobody showcases the l For glove lovers flavours and ingredients of the region LUVARia UlissES quite like chef António Galapito in this Because: This tiny shop has been former factory with large windows and selling handmade leather gloves since wooden tables. Travel’s tip: Portions 1925. It’s an institution, so you may are small, so order two or three plates have to queue. Travel’s tip: Check out per person. Travessa das Pedras nearby Joalharia do Carmo, too, for Negras 2; 00 351 21 053 4649, its delicate filigree jewellery. Rua do pradorestaurante.com; 17 . Carmo 87ª; luvariaulisses.com; 22. l Asian flavours l Chocs away Casa Dos PRAZERES (Mains WRITER’S BEttiNA AND Niccolo CORallo TIP about £8) Casa dos Prazeres Because: This shop serves every type Because: The Argentinian chef cut his only opens for of chocolate you can imagine. Indulge teeth in Asia before partnering with the dinner, so if you in its rich 100% sorbet. Travel’s tip: The can’t make it, taste Michelin-standard José Avillez. Try the gift to stock up on is its chocolate with chef Carenzo’s seafood soup or Thai cod fritters; the take on ramen, caramel and flor de sal. Rua da Escola decor is as sophisticated as the food. banh mi and Politécnica 4; 00 35 121 386 2158; 23. Travel’s tip: Arrive early for a cocktail other Asian snacks at the in the stunning, softly lit lounge. Rua all-day Rei da Nova da Trindade 13; 00 351 21 134 China, a casual StAY l All about the pool Thirsty work: l Home from home GET ME THERE 2160, casadosprazeres.pt; 18 . joint at the ASK THE l Retro rooms THE ONE Palacio DA ANUNciaDA clockwise from BaiXA HoUSE (One-bed apartments GO INDEPENDENT entrance to THE ViNtagE HotEL & Spa (Doubles from £123, room only) top left, cocktail at from £158, B&B) TAP Air Portugal flies from Heathrow, Prazeres LOCAL Rossio Gastrobar; Patrícia Brum is a l Stews and dance (reidachina.pt; (Doubles from £117, room only) Because: It has the best rooftop pool bar at the Vintage Because: Once an azulejo-tiled mansion Gatwick and Manchester, from £49 one Portuguese archaeologist AssociaCAO CaboVERDEANA mains about £8) Because: It’s a modern designer pad in Lisbon. And if it’s too chilly to use, Hotel & Spa; a light- block of grand proportions, Baixa House way. EasyJet flies from Gatwick, Luton, who lives in Lisbon (Mains about £9) in a city of historic houses. Highlights you can lounge in the converted 16th- filled apartment is now a hotel of unique rooms. It’s also Edinburgh, Manchester and Bristol, at Baixa House; Because: This restaurant at the top of include a wooden-decked rooftop G century palace, or head out to Baixa, stylish as hell, thanks to the owner- from £36 one way. Or try Wizz Air, N I mackerel sushi at an office building celebrates the cuisine with leafy ‘living’ wall, a bijou courtyard RD for grand boulevards and grander designer’s impeccable taste. Travel’s Ryanair or BA. A A Taberna do Mar; H of former Portuguese colony Cape If you want to uncover restaurant, a spa — and cava at the T shopping. Travel’s tip: Breakfast is the spectacular tip: Be aware breakfast is continental, ER rooftop swimming Verde. Join devotees for cachupa, Lisbon’s past, it is just breakfast buffet. Travel’s tip: Rooms OB glorious, but the menus are complex, not cooked (and left by the door daily to GO pacKAGED R pool at the One a traditional bean, corn and meat stew. under your feet. Take a peek at the come in bold colours — teal blue, so leave enough time to digest it all. prepare in your own kitchen). Rua dos Barrhead Travel (barrheadtravel.co.uk) TTY, TTY, Palácio da Anunciada E Travel’s tip: Go on Tuesday or Thursday Roman city of Felicitas Julia Olisipo, in avocado green and burnt orange — so Rua das Portas de Santo Antão Fanqueiros 8; baixahouse.com; 32.