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r 10 It has a spectacular terrace a 1 m miradouro a Portuguese naval warship where where warship naval Portuguese a kids can act out pirate adventures. l From spring to autumn, Lisboetas flock to the beaches around Costa da Caparica white sangria. In warmer months, months, warmer In sangria. white rent a lounger andthe to snooze sound of Atlantic waves. coriander clams at Borda d’Agua MorenaPraia (bordadagua.com.pt; da mains about £16; in Alcântara packed with regulars. with packed Alcântara in l Skip busy sightseers’ tram No. 28 and instead take the No. 24, used mostly by residents. Ride it all the way to for a monument most visitors miss: the 65-metre-high Aqueduto das Aguas Livres just before sunset, with people heading home or out for dinner. The 10-minute voyage deposits you in a quaint old-fashioned of neighbourhood pubs and seafood restaurants with fresh charcoal-grilled fish. Before dinner, check out the Dom Fernando Il e Glória (Dock No. 2, 150 metres from Cacilheiros ferry; £3.40; a sign saying Há Caracóis . Chiado. facing the river and suspension bridge but is only open for lunch. Go at noon to grab a seat before the workers and students drift in. l Lisbon is lovely seen from the water. Instead of a touristy boat trip, take the £1.10 commuter ferry from Cais do Sodré the train there, then hop in a taxi along the Setúbal Peninsula. (In summer, there’s a mini train that kids will love.) intoTuck fresh seafood on the beach at Praia da Princesa (praiaprincesa.com; mains about £14; viewpoints are called. At sunset, look for one with a drinks kiosk, such as Graça’s High up, you’ll cross 18th-century an either dizzying views aqueduct, with side, and peek into tunnels where waterused to flow. l Another way to get a high is at a combine home-cooked food with food home-cooked combine a view at Cantina das Freiras (‘the nun’s canteen’; Travessa Ferragial 1; and order it. The best in town are at (olutador.pt; Lutador O

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instant escapes 134 Go against the holidaymakers’ with flow our resident’s tips off-beat Whether cycling or reclining on a riverside get to Lisboetas terrace, like out and about. Some go jogging, some stroll, pursuit but the best-loved in the Portuguese capital dining is out. what with Small all wonder, the and pastries sweet seafood on offer! Don’t stick with the tourists — follow the locals and you’ll find the deal. to real your way By Célia Pedroso Locals’ ✂ instant escapes

CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I Locals’ lisbon

Eat DRINK & shop l Fish fusion l Drink with a view A Taberna do Mar (Mains about £8) Gastrobar Because: Fusing Portuguese and Because: It’s the rooftop professionals AROUND Japanese flavours, Do Mar has a great THE CORNER flock to for after-work cocktails. It also tasting menu, the star of which is the You’re up high serves small plates crafted by a top sardine nigiri. Travel’s tip: Book at least here, just minutes local chef — the beef croquettes are from one of a week ahead. Calçada da Graça 20B; Lisbon’s best irresistible. Travel’s tip: Insist on a 00 351 21 093 9360, atabernado viewpoints fortified wine such as Moscatel Roxo, mar.negocio.site; 16 . — Miradoura da produced in Setúbal, south of Lisbon. Graça — so make Rua 1º de Dezembro 118; rossio the most of the l Factory food journey and take gastrobar.com; 21 . Prado (Small plates about £8) a photograph! Because: Nobody showcases the l For glove lovers flavours and ingredients of the region Luvaria Ulisses quite like chef António Galapito in this Because: This tiny shop has been former factory with large windows and selling handmade leather gloves since wooden tables. Travel’s tip: Portions 1925. It’s an institution, so you may are small, so order two or three plates have to queue. Travel’s tip: Check out per person. Travessa das Pedras nearby Joalharia do Carmo, too, for Negras 2; 00 351 21 053 4649, its delicate filigree jewellery. Rua do pradorestaurante.com; 17 . Carmo 87ª; luvariaulisses.com; 22. l Asian flavours l Chocs away Casa dos Prazeres (Mains WRITER’S Bettina and Niccolo Corallo TIP about £8) Casa dos Prazeres Because: This shop serves every type Because: The Argentinian chef cut his only opens for of chocolate you can imagine. Indulge teeth in Asia before partnering with the dinner, so if you in its rich 100% sorbet. Travel’s tip: The can’t make it, taste Michelin-standard José Avillez. Try the gift to stock up on is its chocolate with chef Carenzo’s seafood soup or Thai cod fritters; the take on ramen, caramel and flor de sal. Rua da Escola decor is as sophisticated as the food. banh mi and Politécnica 4; 00 35 121 386 2158; 23. Travel’s tip: Arrive early for a cocktail other Asian snacks at the in the stunning, softly lit lounge. Rua all-day Rei da Nova da Trindade 13; 00 351 21 134 China, a casual Stay l All about the pool Thirsty work: l Home from home Get me there 2160, casadosprazeres.pt; 18 . joint at the ASK THE l Retro rooms The One Palacio da Anunciada clockwise from Baixa House (One-bed apartments Go independent entrance to The Vintage Hotel & Spa (Doubles from £123, room only) top left, cocktail at from £158, B&B) TAP Air flies from Heathrow, Prazeres LOCAL Rossio Gastrobar; Patrícia Brum is a l Stews and dance (reidachina.pt; (Doubles from £117, room only) Because: It has the best rooftop pool bar at the Vintage Because: Once an azulejo-tiled mansion Gatwick and Manchester, from £49 one Portuguese archaeologist AssociaCAo Caboverdeana mains about £8) Because: It’s a modern designer pad in Lisbon. And if it’s too chilly to use, Hotel & Spa; a light- block of grand proportions, Baixa House way. EasyJet flies from Gatwick, Luton, who lives in Lisbon (Mains about £9) in a city of historic houses. Highlights you can lounge in the converted 16th- filled apartment is now a hotel of unique rooms. It’s also Edinburgh, Manchester and Bristol,

at Baixa House; Because: This restaurant at the top of include a wooden-decked rooftop G century palace, or head out to Baixa, stylish as hell, thanks to the owner- from £36 one way. Or try Wizz Air, N I mackerel sushi at an office building celebrates the cuisine with leafy ‘living’ wall, a bijou courtyard for grand boulevards and grander A Taberna do Mar; designer’s impeccable taste. Travel’s Ryanair or BA. of former Portuguese colony Cape If you want to uncover restaurant, a spa — and cava at the H A RD T shopping. Travel’s tip: Breakfast is the spectacular tip: Be aware breakfast is continental, ER rooftop swimming Verde. Join devotees for cachupa, Lisbon’s past, it is just breakfast buffet. Travel’s tip: Rooms OB glorious, but the menus are complex, not cooked (and left by the door daily to Go packaged pool at the One a traditional bean, corn and meat stew. under your feet. Take a peek at the come in bold colours — teal blue, so leave enough time to digest it all. prepare in your own kitchen). Rua dos Barrhead Travel (barrheadtravel.co.uk) TTY, R TTY, Palácio da Anunciada E Travel’s tip: Go on Tuesday or Thursday Roman city of Felicitas Julia Olisipo, in avocado green and burnt orange — so Rua das Portas de Santo Antão Fanqueiros 8; baixahouse.com; 32. has three nights at the Vintage Hotel lunchtime, when there’s live music. the lobby of the Eurostars Museum ask for your preference. Rua Rodrigo 112-134; hotelstheone.com; 30. from £323pp, B&B, with flights. EasyJet Rua Duque de Palmela 2, 8th floor; Hotel (eurostarshotels.com.pt; 24), or da Fonseca 2; thevintagelisbon.com; 28. l Royal pedigree Holidays (easyjet.com/holidays) has 00 351 21 353 1932; 19 . at (www.museude l Nightlife base Palacio Belmonte (Doubles three nights at Memmo from lisboa.pt; £5; 25). For dinner, Taberna l Local vibes The Lumiares (Doubles from SPECIAL from £417, B&B) £341pp, B&B, with flights. REQUESTS l Meaty feast Sal Grosso is a small restaurant where Memmo Alfama (Doubles from £150, room only) Got any queries Because: It’s in a 15th-century palace, DINING G ALAMY, PHOTOGRAPHS: AY

Vicente (Mains about £21) TIMING you’ll find good, trad Portuguese £120, B&B) KR Because: Tucked away in the after- or celebrating part of Lisbon’s castle complex, with Further information AC Because: Lisboetas love Alentejo and It’s rare to go out food. But book in advance — it’s Because: It has a lovely roof terrace, H dark-buzzy , it has its own an occasion? one of the city’s ritziest restaurants The 35-minute Aerobus from the Download the

for dinner before CY T this restaurant lays on the region’s best very popular (00 35 121 598 2212; delivering an uninterrupted panorama U fabulous, scene-y rooftop. Head up for hotel app and (Grenache), and high-ceilinged lounges airport costs £5 return; you can use 8.30pm here and , L 26 N produce. The 18th-century stone and younger folk mains about £7; ). For coffee, I go to of the River and endless russet- IC brunch or aperitif cocktails. The decor chat with staff with original azulejo tiling. Travel’s tip: the metro (£1.20 per journey), but H brick walls have been beautifully like it even later, Bertrand Chiado, one of the world’s tiled houses. Rooms are basic, in tones AP is glossy modern monochrome, with on WhatsApp Rooms are wildly different, as wings you’ll have to change lines. Many Lisbon R

around 9.30pm, E BOWMA before you arrive.

renovated, too. Try the beef cheeks or oldest bookshops. I tend to go for of cream and biscuit; staff are full of tips. TOG arty gold light fixtures and powder-pink couldn’t be structurally altered — so streets are sloping, cobbled or narrow, before heading ATI English-fluent the black-pig skewers. Travel’s tip: out for late-night breakfast or lanche (our afternoon Travel’s tip: You’re in Alfama, Lisbon’s CA R accent walls. Travel’s tip: There’s some staff can add check the pictures on the website. The so taxis can save you a struggle to the Order the house wine — it’s excellent adventures snack) at the lovely cafe in the back prettiest, vintage-tiled, bougainvillea- A D late-night noise from surrounding extra-special Fernão Magalhães suite, with high hotel door and shouldn’t cost more than in bars and 27 touches and also from Alentejo. Rua das Flores (bertrand.pt; ). draped quarter, so get up early for a DENHE streets, so stay here only if you’re up views from a palace turret, is highly £13, but pick up at the Departures exit nightclubs

6; 00 351 93 672 5384, carnalentejana. wander and photos. Travessa das MAI : for the revelry. Rua do Diario de Noticias recommended. Patio de Dom Fradique to avoid being ripped off. For city MAP pt/restaurantes; 20. Merceeiras 27; memmohotels.com; 29. K WORDS: ADDITIONAL 142; thelumiares.com; 31 . 14; palaciobelmonte.com; 33. nitty-gritty, see visitlisboa.com.

136 Sunday Times Travel march 2020 march 2020 Sunday Times Travel 137