John Morgenthaler [email protected] www.triplenickeltravel.com 772-777-1448 LISBON, PORTUGAL OVERVIEW Introduction The hodgepodge of historical periods and cultures represented in Lisbon, Portugal, is a major source of its charm and travel appeal. A sprawling city on the banks of the Tagus River, Lisbon constantly reminds travelers that Portugal has been conquered several times, that it developed (and lost) its own illustrious empire and that, for much of the 20th century, it isolated itself from the rest of the world. But when Portugal joined the European Union in 1986, it experienced a major economic boost. A completely new quarter sprang up on the banks of the Tagus. Lisbon is modernizing fast as a European travel destination. As visitors to Portugal walk Lisbon's hills—or, better, take one of Lisbon's vintage trams—they'll find restored medieval facades, wonderful art-nouveau buildings, black-and-white mosaic sidewalks (known as calcada), fine museums and plenty of modern shops. Lisbon's citizens seem to have absorbed their city's many-sided character. Visitors can witness the popularity of fado, the melancholy music that developed in Lisbon in the early-19th century. Though the performers sing about tragedy and distant glory, the audience is very much a part of modern Lisbon—a flourishing, fashionable business and leisure center. Sights—Torre de Belem; Mosteiro dos Jeronimos; Padrao dos Descobrimentos; Se Cathedral; Elevador de Santa Justa; the view from Castelo de Sao Jorge. Museums—Centro de Arte Moderna Jose de Azeredo Perdigao; Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga; Museu Calouste Gulbenkian; Museu Nacional dos Coches; Museu Nacional do Azulejo; Museu Berardo; Museu do Fado. Memorable Meals—Seafood platter and steak sandwich at Sea Me; acorda de marisco (a seafood and bread dish) at Restaurante Pap'Acorda; meat dishes and Belgian beer at A Travessa; pastel de belem (custard tart) at Confeitaria de Belem. Late Night—Barhopping in Bairro Alto; dancing the night away in one of the clubs in converted warehouses on Avenida 24 de Julho; a visit to Casino Lisboa. Walks—A stroll through Alfama or Bairro Alto; window shopping in Chiado; a walk by the river in Parque das Nacoes or through one of the many parks and gardens. Especially for Kids—Jardim Zoologico de Lisboa (the zoo); Oceanario de Lisboa; Museu da Marioneta; the playgrounds at Jardim da Estrela park. The heart of Lisbon is the historical center, which borders the Tagus River (known as the Tejo in Portuguese). After an earthquake destroyed most of the city in 1755, Lisbon was rebuilt around one of Europe's most beautiful piazzas: the Praca do Comercio, dominated by the equestrian statue of King Jose. The area surrounding the Praca do Comercio is called Baixa. Immediately to the north is the old Rossio Square. Much of this area is now a pedestrian zone, with metro links, as well as plenty of outdoor cafes and shops. To the west of the Praca do Comercio is the trendy shopping district of Chiado and, farther west, the Bairro Alto, with its creative shops, fado bars and small businesses crowded in the old, twisted streets. To the east of Praca do Comercio is Castelo de Sao Jorge (St. George's Castle), which dominates the view toward the river. The castle was built upon the old Arab part of town. Spreading out from the castle, the neighborhoods of Alfama and Mouraria have narrow and winding streets that remind visitors of the Arab influence on the city. The long riverfront, with its converted dock warehouses, is one of the many hot spots of Lisbon's nightlife. The docks extend westward under the 25 de Abril Bridge, which resembles San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge. Farther west is the neighborhood of Belem, once a small fishing town. It was there in the 1500s that the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos (Monastery of Jeronimos) was built, along with the Torre de Belem (Tower of Belem), a fortress dominating the entrance to the river. Today, Belem is the location of Centro Cultural de Belem, the area's most important contemporary and performing-arts venue. To the north of Lisbon's town center is the large and busy boulevard of Avenida da Liberdade, where the city's most fashionable shops and most active businesses are located. Northeast of the city center is Parque das Nacoes, site of the 1998 World Expo. In this sprawling park, you'll find the Oceanario de Lisboa, as well as a massive shopping mall, good hotels, theme restaurants and some bars—this is a good area to stay in if you need to be close to the airport, but it isn't representative of the city and has none of the charm and history that makes Lisbon so popular. Other neighborhoods worth noting are Lapa (the diplomatic quarter), Principe Real and the Santos Design District. All of them appear on most maps of the city. There is evidence of civilization in the area from as far back as the seventh century BC, but it wasn't until the second century BC that the Romans arrived. Around 60 BC, the Romans founded the colony of Felicitas Julia, which prospered as a trading center until the fifth century AD, when the Visigoths invaded. Their domination lasted more than 250 years, until Arabs and Berbers arrived from North Africa. The Arabs preserved what remained of the Roman civilization and developed their own cultural system. In 1147, the Muslims who had settled in Lisbon were expelled by the Christians. Around 1256, Lisbon became the capital of the kingdom of Portugal, which by then had clearly defined its borders. Over the years, Lisbon grew into a prosperous capital, boosted by the riches taken from its colonies. It endured two major earthquakes (in 1531 and 1755), which destroyed two-thirds of the city. The Marques de Pombal rebuilt Lisbon. Instead of restoring damaged buildings, he opted to demolish anything unstable. He also designed Lisbon's grid system, which runs from the Praca do Comercio up to his statue on the Marques de Pombal roundabout—it constitutes the central hub for the old quarter. In the 20th century, Lisbon was still the capital of a colonial empire, but it was no longer wealthy and powerful. After a series of costly wars with Spain, the Portuguese monarchy gradually lost the respect of its citizens, who ousted the last king in 1910. After two decades of turmoil, Dr. Antonio de Oliveira Salazar emerged as Portugal's unquestioned leader. Salazar, who ruled as prime minister for more than 35 years, isolated Portugal from the rest of Europe (thus keeping the country out of World War II) and clung to power through a brutal secret police force that censored virtually anyone who opposed him. Salazar suffered a stroke in 1968 and was succeded by Marcelo Caetano, who maintained the dictatorial government until being overthrown by a military coup known as Carnation Revolution or the 25 April Revolution in 1974, that led to the establishment of democracy and a new Constitution. Consequently, the liberation of the Portuguese colonies in Africa provoked a boom in immigration to Portugal, creating a substantial African community in Lisbon. In 1986 Portugal joined the European Union. Since the 1980s, Portugal has shifted from a fundamentally conservative policy influenced by the Catholic Church to adopting more liberal policies such as the legalization of abortion and gay marriage, and the decriminalization of drugs. Economically, Portugal had a boom after joining the EU. Major new highways improved connections within the country and to the rest of Europe. Railroads and other public transportation were modernized. Unemployment reached a record low of 3.7% in 2000, and the percentage of the population with higher education increased dramatically. Severe austerity measures have had an impact on daily life in Portugal, but should not affect visitors to the country except when there are transportion or general strikes. Location Cruise ships dock at one of four Port of Lisbon cruise ship terminals: Alcantara, Rocha Conde de Obidos, Santa Apolonia and Jardim do Tabaco (the last two often referred to simply as the Lisbon Cruise terminals). All terminals are located near Lisbon's cultural center and are within walking distance of cafes and restaurants. Alcantara and Santa Apolonia feature gift shops, and Jardim do Tabaco has a new kiosk with souvenirs including wine, art made of cork and ceramics. All terminals provide maps and information to visitors. All offer internet access except the Rocha Conde de Obidos. A new terminal under construction is scheduled to replace Santa Apolonia and Jardim do Tabaco. Public transport and taxis are readily available from the cruise terminals, especially Santa Apolonia, which is a transport hub. There is a tourist information office at Santa Apolonia train station—just follow the signs from the cruise terminal. http://www.portodelisboa.com. The cruise terminals are also serviced by double-decker buses providing tours of Lisbon. Tickets are available for 24 or 48 hours allowing hop-on, hop off service between the buses and public transportation, including the trams and the famous elevator of Santa Justa. Half-day excursions usually consist of bus tours to the major city sites including stops at the tree-lined Avenida da Liberdade, Praca do Commercio, the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos and the Museu Nacional dos Coches. Other tours visit the chic and scenic Estoril coast and the resort of Sintra. Day trips to Obidos, Fatima and Batalha, known as the "Lourdes of Portugal," are other popular options. Potpourri Once a year, usually at the end of September, the city opens its subterranean district—a hidden world of Roman foundations and bridges—to the public for three days.