FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 A FASHION INDEX

2018 EDITION

A review of 150 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about their social and environmental policies, practices and impact. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 01 CONTENTS

03 FOREWORD 30 THE SCORES ACROSS THE 5 KEY AREAS 04 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 31 Average scores across the sections 06 WHY TRANSPARENCY? 32 1. Policy & Commitments 06 Why greater transparency is important 37 2. Governance in the fashion industry 41 3. Traceability 10 Viewpoint: Nazma Akter, trade unionist 46 4. Know, Show, Fix 11 Viewpoint: Christina Hajagos-Clausen, Industriall 50 5. Spotlight Issues 12 Viewpoint: Debbie Coulter, Ethical Trading Initiative 55 Viewpoint: Joe Sutcliffe, CARE 13 What do we mean by transparency? 56 Viewpoint: Guy Stuart, Microfinance Opportunities 57 Viewpoint: Mark Anner, Penn State University 16 ABOUT THE FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 17 Why have we conducted this research? 58 WHAT SHOULD YOU DO WITH THIS INFORMATION? 18 The methodology 59 Citizens 19 The weighting of the scores 60 Brands and Retailers 20 About the new methodology 61 Governments and Policymakers 21 How were the 150 brands selected? 62 NGOs, Unions and Workers 22 How does the scoring work? 63 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 24 THE RESULTS 65 ANNEX 1 Definitions and Abbreviations 25 A rough guide to the scoring 66 ANNEX 2 References 26 The final scores 67 An important final note 27 Overall analysis 68 About Fashion Revolution 29 Quick findings

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The content of this with English law and submitted to the exclusive jurisdiction publication can in no way be taken to reflect the views of of the courts of England and Wales. any of the funders of Fashion Revolution CIC or the Fashion Transparency Index. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 03 FOREWORD

CARRY SOMERS FOUNDER AND GLOBAL OPERATIONS DIRECTOR FASHION REVOLUTION

Transparency is like water. ‘Light is like water. You turn on the tap "Transparency is and crevice, reshaping everything in its and out it comes.’ Months later, they win a visibility. We want to path, but the light bulbs of transparency After the Rana Plaza factory school prize and are both rewarded with are permanently set to the on position. collapsed in Bangladesh five diving outfits. The following Wednesday, see the fashion industry, years ago, transparency started they invite all their classmates over for a respect its producers Make no mistake about it, there is no party while their parents are out and and and understand its going back; this river of transparency as a slow trickle. It began turn on so many lights that the apartment processes. We want a will become a flood. When this time bubbling up through the cracks. floods, drowning all the classmates apart comes, those brands who know how clear, uninterrupted to use the tools of transparency to Now it is seeping into some of from the two brothers. When the firemen vision from origin finally force open the door, the brothers navigate a new course, will be the the darkest corners, permeating are navigating towards the lighthouse to disposal to foster ones who will survive. These are the the fabric of the industry. amidst the ‘household objects, in the dignity, empowerment companies who are able to spot any fullness of their poetry, flying through and justice for the unauthorised suppliers being used My favourite short story is La Luz Es the kitchen sky on their own wings.’ people who make our to make their products; the ones who Como el Agua, Light Is Like Water, by are managing and mitigating risks Transparency is like water. After the Rana clothes and to protect that might lead to human rights and Gabriel Garcia Marquéz. Two brothers ask the environment for a rowing boat one Christmas. Every Plaza factory collapsed in Bangladesh environmental abuses; the ones who Wednesday, whilst their parents are at five years ago, transparency started we all share." are protecting their brand's reputation. the cinema, they let the light flow out as a slow trickle. It began bubbling up Transparency is power. The brands to a depth of four hand spans and then through the cracks. Now it is seeping that are still sitting in the armchairs learn to use a sextant and compass into some of the darkest corners, in their fifth floor apartments, who as they navigate around their fifth floor permeating the fabric of the industry. ORSOLA DE CASTRO FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR, haven’t yet learnt how to sail on the apartment in Madrid. This adventure This year’s Fashion Transparency Index FASHION REVOLUTION tide of transparency, will be drowned was the result of a frivolous remark in results show that it’s not yet a raging by it. The wave is coming; now is the response to one of the boys asking why torrent, flowing into every deep nook time to get ahead of the curve. light comes out at the flick of a switch.

FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 04 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

Ten brands and retailers lead each section of the methodology — Dior, Heilan Home and s.Oliver continue Only one brand, which is ASOS, discloses the path towards greater suggesting that inclusion in the Fashion to disclose nothing, and this year we are where they source raw materials. No transparency amongst the Transparency Index has influenced seeing next to nothing from Barney’s brands were disclosing this information major corporate players brands and retailers to disclose more. New York, Desigual, Jessica Simpson, last year. Longchamp, Liverpool, Max Mara, Mexx, Adidas and Reebok top the Index again Major luxury brands move Nine West and Sandro. 48 brands Publicly available supplier lists this year scoring 58% or 144.5 out of towards transparency and retailers (32%) are scoring in the can help fix problems faster 250 possible points followed by Puma, bottom 0-10% range overall, compared Hugo Boss, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Having quick, immediate access to H&M, Esprit, Banana Republic, Gap, to 32 brands and retailers (32%) last Gucci, Bottega Veneta, YSL and Burberry these supplier lists can be crucial to Old Navy, C&A and Marks & Spencer year — showing that many brands and score in the 31-40% range, with Hugo solving problems swiftly. Transparent in the 51-60% range. ASOS is shortly retailers are still lagging far behind, Boss increasing its score by 11%, Calvin disclosure makes it easier for brands, behind at 50%, having increased disclosing very little about their social Klein and Tommy Hilfiger increasing suppliers and workers, trade unions and their level of disclosure by 18% since and environmental practices. last year. The mean average score their score by 9%, Gucci, Bottega Veneta NGOs to alert brands and retailers when amongst all 150 brands and retailers and YSL increasing their score by 8% Many more brands and retailers human rights and environmental abuses is 52 (21%) out of 250 possible points. and Burberry increasing their score by are disclosing their suppliers occur in the places where their products 7% this year. are made. It means that garment The brands and retailers 37% of the brands and retailers are workers, unions, and NGOs can call upon we reviewed last year have Too many big brands and publishing a list of their manufacturers brands to ensure that abuses stop and increased their level of retailers continue to lack (tier 1), up from 32% of the brands in 2017 workers get remedies. It is essentially transparency by 5% transparency and 12.5% in 2016. These supplier lists about greater corporate accountability.* have become a lot more detailed too, 12 brands and retailers (8%) have scored When we compare the 98 brands and including information such as factory 0% in 2018, compared to three (3%) retailers that were included in both the street address, types of products they in the 2017 report. These brands and 2017 and 2018 Fashion Transparency make and the number of workers. 18% retailers' lack of disclosure brings down Index, we have seen these brands of the brands and retailers are disclosing the overall average score, despite many and retailers increase their level their processing facilities (tier 2), up from brands disclosing considerably more of transparency by an average of 14% of the brands in the previous year. approximately 5% overall and across information this year compared to 2017.

*Read more about this topic via Clean Clothes Campaign. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 05 FINDINGS More talk about policies and When it comes to workers in the supply commitments than practices chain, of which an estimated 80% are and impacts women, only 13% of the brands publish AT-A-GLANCE detailed guidance on issues facing Brands and retailers give a lot more female workers in the supply chain and time and space to explain their values only 5% of the brands disclose any data and beliefs rather than their practices on the prevalence of gender-based labour and impacts. On average, the brands violations in their supplier facilities. and retailers scored 46% in section one, which looks at what information Information shared by 5% 15% 7% they publish about their policies and major brands and retailers commitments. 31 brands (21%) brands remains difficult to navigate, and retailers scored more than 80% jargon-heavy and shallow on policy and commitments and 5% average increase of 98 22 brands have increased 7% average increase in The disclosure of meaningful brands’ scores since last year their traceability score by transparency on governance all but 10 brands were publishing at more than 10% across 98 brands since last year least one policy. However, on average information and data by brands and the brands just scored 11% when it retailers is often buried in company comes to traceability and 17% when it websites, housed on external micro- comes to publishing procedures and sites, in 300+ page annual reports outcomes of supplier assessments. or simply not available at all. Brands present information in many different Focus on discrimination but formats, using all sorts of unclear 64% 84% 12% little disclosed about language and industry jargon and addressing gender equality presented in an array of different visuals.

Over three-quarters of the brands and Still a long way to go towards 64% of brands have 84% of brands have 12 brands disclose next to transparency for all brands disclosed more policies increased their score nothing, and 12% of brands retailers publish a policy on discrimination and commitments than since last year score less than 3% both within the company (76%) and in the and retailers they did last year supply chain (79%). But only about 40% of the brands and retailers publish a policy No brand or retailer is scoring above on equal pay both for their own employees 60% of the total possible points. and in their supply chain. Meanwhile, less Whilst we are seeing brands and TOP 5 BIGGEST MOVERS than half (47%) of brands and retailers retailers begin to publish more disclose the percentage of women in about their social and environmental +22% The North Face executive and management positions efforts, there is still much crucial 28% within the company, and only 14% of the information that remains concealed. +22% Timberland brands and retailers publish the annual +22% Wrangler gender pay gap within the company. +19% C&A 28% of brands have scored 31% or higher this year, +18% ASOS compared to 20% amongst brands last year FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 06

WHY TRANSPARENCY? FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 07 WHY GREATER TRANSPARENCY IS IMPORTANT IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY

[TOP] 'Dhaka Savar Building Collapse' by rijans When the Rana Plaza building Fragmented supply chains via Flickr CC obscure accountability collapsed five years ago in [Bottom] 'Site of the Rana Bangladesh, killing and injuring Plaza factory The vast majority of today’s fashion collapse' brands and retailers do not own their by Dorothee thousands of garment workers, Baumann-Pauly people had to dig through the manufacturing facilities, making rubble looking for clothing labels it difficult to monitor or control working conditions across the highly in order to figure out which globalised supply chain. This can brands were linked to the five sometimes be used as an excuse for garment factories in the building. brands to evade responsibility for how their products are made. In some cases, it took weeks for brands and retailers to determine Brands and retailers may work with why their labels were found amongst hundreds or even thousands of the ruins and what sort of purchasing factories at any given time – and that agreements they had with those is just the suppliers that cut, sew and suppliers. Many clothing brands assemble our garments. There are sourcing from the factories inside many facilities further down the chain Rana Plaza didn’t know their products that weave, dye and finish materials were being made there. and farms that grow fibres used in our clothing. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018

During the manufacturing process our Progress is happening but clothes are touched by many pairs of but it’s still difficult to know hands before they ever reach the shop #whomademyclothes floor or, increasingly, the screens of our phones and computers. Of course, much has changed since Rana Plaza, especially in Bangladesh. Many A brand might place an order with factories have been upgraded, and with one supplier, who carves up the order all the great attention put on Bangladesh and subcontracts the work to other since then, some very real and positive factories. This happens regularly across progress has been made towards the industry and makes it extremely improving working conditions. difficult to monitor human rights and environmental impacts. Unauthorised However, not enough has changed subcontracting causes workers to in global fashion supply chains and become effectively invisible in the business practices on the whole across supply chain, and this is where the the industry are still very secretive. It highest risk of human rights violations is extremely challenging, if not almost and environmental degradation tends to impossible, for a consumer to find out occur. But these subcontracted facilities where their clothes have been made, are not the only places where poor by whom and under what conditions — conditions persist, sometimes it’s right which means it is hugely difficult to know under our noses in manufacturers and what real-world impacts, both positive communities close to home too. and negative, our clothing purchases are having on people’s lives and on the Lack of transparency environment. costs lives This is why we are still calling for a revolution of the fashion industry. Right after Rana Plaza happened, it Never again should a tragedy like Rana became very clear to us that the fashion Plaza happen, yet factory fires, safety industry needed urgent, transformative accidents and faulty buildings continue change, and that the first vital step to harm people in the places where towards this change entailed far greater our clothes are made. Pollution and visibility and transparency of the people waste created as a result of the way our working in supply chains, the business clothes are produced and consumed relationships at play across supply continues to damage the environment. chains and information about working conditions and environmental impact. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 09

People want to know Over 113,000 posts using our hashtags, "In a survey of over #whomademyclothes including #whomademyclothes, reached 533 million impressions 10,000 consumers Consumers don’t want to buy clothes during April 2018 alone – an increase made by people working in danger, of almost 250% on the previous year. exploited, paid poverty-level wages, from around the in polluted environments but there Transparency helps is simply not enough information mitigate human rights and world, 78% said available about the clothes we wear. environmental violations Fashion Revolution wants to change it is somewhat or that. This is why we are pushing As Jenny Holdcroft, the Assistant for more transparency from the General Secretary of IndustriALL very important for fashion industry. The annual Fashion Global Union, explained in last year’s Transparency Index is one of the tools report, “knowing the names of major that helps us do this. buyers from factories gives workers a company to be and their unions a stronger leverage, When we are equipped with more crucial for a timely solution when transparent.” — and better quality, credible — resolving conflicts, whether it be information about the human and refusal to recognise the union, or environmental impacts of the clothes unlawful sackings for demanding we buy, we are able to make more their rights. It also provides the HAVAS informed shopping choices. As a possibility to create a link from the FEBRUARY 2016 result, transparency builds trust in worker back to the customer and the brands we buy. possibly media to bring attention to the issues.” People are increasingly asking for greater transparency from Increased transparency and the fashion industry. In 2018, accountability means issues more than 2.5 million people along the supply chain can be across the world participated addressed and solutions found in Fashion Revolution through faster. But it also means positive events, posting on social media, examples and positive stories viewing our videos or downloading can be highlighted, shared and resources from our website. potentially replicated elsewhere.1

1. As explained by Human Rights Watch: www.hrw.org/news/2016/09/08/gap-inc-joins-global-brands-publish-factory-list FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 10

"If unions and workers in Bangladesh have a list of where brands are manufacturing, it is so much easier for us to resolve problems quickly. We don’t need to do big public campaigns, we can address issues directly with brands. Having access to supplier lists also helps unions know where best to focus our organising efforts.

The disclosure of other types of data is useful too. For example, disclosing information about working conditions helps us better understand and solve issues facing women workers in Bangladesh, such as health, childcare, maternity rights, female leadership and living conditions and wages.

Ultimately, everybody should be more transparent. Fashion brands and retailers, governments, trade unions and suppliers need to respect and trust each other and work together with openness and honesty." www.livesbehindthelabel.newint.org www.livesbehindthelabel.newint.org ON OUR RADAR

NAZMA AKTER BANGLAHDESI TRADE UNIONIST AND

FOUNDER OF THE AWAJ FOUNDATION © PHOTOGRAPHY FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 11 VIEWPOINT: A CONTINUED NEED FOR TRANSPARENCY IN THE FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN

CHRISTINA HAJAGOS-CLAUSEN DIRECTOR, TEXTILE AND GARMENT INDUSTRY AT INDUSTRIALL GLOBAL UNION Yes garment factory in Yangon, in March 2018 © IndustriALL Global Union

2017 saw an increase of global brands Transparency of a company’s For workers and their unions, and retailers publicly releasing some manufacturing supply chain better “Transparency not transparency in the supply chain information about their supply chain: enables a company to identify and only provides a link is a vital tool to ensure that the factory location, the name of the parent assess actual or potential adverse burden of proof rests with the company, types of products made, human rights impacts. This is a critical between workers global brands to ensure that their number of workers, and if the company step that strengthens a company’s due and customers, but clothes are manufactured in an has authorized any subcontracts from diligence. It is also a needed step for environment that is free of human the facility. This a step in the right workers who make the world’s clothes it provides workers and labour rights violation. With direction that contributes to a new norm and a needed step for customers. and their unions the the knowledge of which brands are for global supply chain transparency. sourcing from their factory, workers Being transparent with information on needed information and their unions can be active in the With over 100 plus companies production is important for workers monitoring of their own workplace. disclosing, it is now time to turn to the and their unions as it allows for human to advocate on thousands of other brands who are rights conflicts to be settled in an their behalf when shirking their responsibilities to the efficient manner by opening up a workers who make their clothes and to channel back to the sourcing brand. resolving conflicts.” their customers and demand that they This allows workers and their unions too go transparent. to use multiple brands’ leverage to remedy human rights violations. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 12 VIEWPOINT: THE BUSINESS CASE FOR MORE TRANSPARENCY

DEBBIE COULTER ACTING HEAD OF KNOWLEDGE & LEARNING ETHICAL TRADING INITIATIVE

These last 18 months have Crucially, greater transparency can help brands engage and collaborate with trade “Transparency can seen strong momentum unions and other civil society organisations; the disclosure of supplier lists can facilitate behind the disclosure of the escalation of a labour rights issue by help companies supply chain information local trade unions directly to brands, an issue that a standard factory audit may embed better working in the apparel sector. have failed to identify. This is a very positive development, and as Yet we must not forget that we are still practices internally, of February 2018, about a quarter of Ethical at an early stage. In order to scale up Trading Initiative’s apparel members had transparency and speed up this movement already made the move to publishing at as being more beyond the “early adopters,” we need to least their Tier 1 supplier lists. continue to work on capturing the evidence But, this momentum has also resulted in of positive outcomes for workers as well transparent means transparency being sometimes held up as a as brands and retailers. universal remedy, without proper agreement Additionally, we need to clarify what holding up a mirror to over what it means, or with evidence of robust and meaningful transparency positive outcomes for workers employed means beyond publishing supplier lists. in supply chains. their own practices.” We also need to further demystify the That’s why Ethical Trading Initiative, and issue of greater transparency and look at other organisations such as Human Rights the implications for apparel companies Watch, have recently been doing more of different sizes and different business work to clarify the benefits brands can get models. These are some of the topics that from becoming more transparent. These Ethical Trading Initiative is exploring with its benefits include building trust with customers company, trade union and NGO members and investors, supporting commercial as part of its 2020 strategy. performance and facilitating access to capital. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018

WHAT DO TRANSPARENCY WE MEAN BY TRANSPARENCY?

FAIR TRADE

WELL-BEING

LIVING WAGES

For Fashion Revolution, Transparency should enable EMPOWERMENT transparency means credible, greater accountability GENDER EQUALITY comprehensive and comparable Transparency is not just sharing the public disclosure of data and good stories nor disclosing only BUSINESS ACCOUNTABILITY information about brands and compliant, well-performing suppliers — it’s about presenting the full picture, retailers’ supply chains, business SUSTAINABLE LIVELIHOODS both good and not-so-good, in an practices and the impacts of these effort to allow for greater scrutiny by GOOD WORKING CONDITIONS practices on workers, communities those affected and interested, and to and the environment. help drive faster improvements. ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY This sort of transparency requires When we talk about greater brands and retailers to know exactly transparency, we mean public who makes the products they sell – disclosure of sourcing relationships from who stitched them right through and of companies’ social and to who dyed the fabric and who environmental policies and farmed the cotton. And crucially, this procedures, goals and targets, requires brands to trace the journey A FAIRER, SAFER, CLEANER performance and progress. of their products right down to the raw FASHION INDUSTRY material level. We are asking them to share this information publicly as an important move towards greater transparency and accountability. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 14

Transparency is not selective Transparency is a means disclosure to third parties as to change, not an end opposed to public disclosure Transparency alone is not enough to Some brands opt to disclose supply fix the industry’s problems, but it is chain information to selected NGOs a necessary first step towards wider or unions rather than publicly, and systemic change. We each need to have done so for many years in act upon the wealth of information order to manage their supply chain that is being disclosed in order to hold transparency risks. However, we feel this is not brands and retailers, governments enough. Health and safety incidents, and suppliers to account. widespread abuses and even deaths are still happening, despite this Ultimately, Fashion Revolution industry-facing disclosure. believes that the fashion industry as a whole needs a radical paradigm shift and the way that most clothing is produced and consumed will need transformation. This means business models will need to change in a big accountability “The knowledge way and a multiplicity of solutions will that important likely be needed. Transparency helps to reveal the industry’s problems and information identify potential solutions so that we can all better understand how to is being kept change it. from people undermines trust and creates greater uncertainty." change

EMILY O’REILLY EUROPEAN OMBUDSMAN, 2017 FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 15 TO ACHIEVE CHANGE WE RECOGNISE 4 IMPORTANT THINGS:

i

It’s a process Inclusivity is key More information is needed Turn data into action

It is going to be a long journey towards Millions of workers are employed Many people continue to shop from Transparency isn’t just for a different industry model, requiring through the supply chains of these big corporate brands, but want more transparency’s sake. The data and many incremental but necessary big brands, and we must be careful tools to understand how products information disclosed by companies steps, to turn the tide of fast fashion to ensure that future of the fashion are made, where they are made, by needs to be accessible, usable or other unsustainable business industry is able to provide decent whom and under what conditions. and detailed enough to take action models. We believe the first step is work, sustainable livelihoods, upon. What we do with publicly greater transparency. This will take hope and integrity for everyone available supply chain information, consumers, brands and retailers, employed in it, from farm to retail. how we use it to drive positive governments and citizens in supply change, is what will count most. chains each taking action. Fashion Revolution is engaging with all of these groups to catalyse positive change. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 16

ABOUT THE FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 17 WHY HAVE WE CONDUCTED THIS RESEARCH?

Fashion Revolution is calling Through the Fashion Transparency Furthermore, we wanted to create: “Our aim is to better Index, we want to help people know for greater transparency a bit more about the brands and • A comparable tool that helps understand the social throughout the fashion industry retailers they buy products from. stakeholders better understand and environmental Many of the brands included in the how much information big brands and our #whomademyclothes Fashion Transparency Index are selling and retailers are disclosing information shared social media campaign special ‘sustainable’ collections but about their suppliers and social by big brands and has inspired hundreds of what about the rest of their products? and environmental impacts Where are their clothes made, by across the value chain; retailers. We will use thousands of people to whom and under what conditions? • A tool to incentivise big brands this information to take action since 2013. and retailers to disclose more What information should we expect to drive positive change." credible, comparable and detailed find about these big brands’ policies and To build on this question, we wanted information year-on-year by procedures when it comes to social and to create a tool that would help people utilising the competitive nature environmental issues? What can we find better understand what transparency of business performance; out about the effects of brands' practices SARAH DITTY looks like in practice, particularly HEAD OF POLICY, FASHION REVOLUTION on the people who work in their supply • An ongoing exercise that helps when it comes to big fashion and chains? These are some of questions the the Fashion Revolution movement apparel brands and retailers. Fashion Transparency Index considers. shape its own understanding of what transparency entails and what transparency demands we may ask in future from big brands and retailers. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 18

The Fashion Transparency Index uses a ratings methodology to THE benchmark brands' and retailers’ public disclosure across five key areas, including: policy and commitments, governance, supply METHODOLOGY chain traceability, supplier assessment and remediation, and new 'spotlight issues' covering living wages, unionisation and collective bargaining, waste and recycling, and women, gender equality and female empowerment. We are only looking at information and data that is publicly disclosed by brands and retailers themselves.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. POLICY & GOVERNANCE TRACEABILITY KNOW, SHOW & FIX SPOTLIGHT ISSUES COMMITMENTS

­—What are the brand’s social ­­—Who in the brand ­­—Does the brand publish a ­­—How does the brand assess ­­—What is the brand doing to and environmental policies? is responsible for the list of its suppliers, from the implementation of its address gender equality and brand’s social and manufacturing to raw supplier policies? female empowerment? ­—How is the brand putting its environmental impacts? material level? policies into practice? ­­—How does the brand fix ­­—What is the brand doing ­­—How can they be contacted? ­­—If so, how much detail problems when found in support Freedom of ­—How does the brand decide do they share? its supplier facilities? Association and the payment which issues to prioritise? ­­—How does the brand of living wages? incorporate human rights ­­—Does the brand report ­­—What are the brand’s future and environmental issues assessment findings? ­­—What is the brand doing goals for improving its into its buying and sourcing to tackle overproduction, impacts? ­­—How can workers report practices? overconsumption, waste grievances? and recycling? FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 19

The methodology focuses exclusively Please be aware that when brands on public disclosure of supply score zero on an individual indicator, WEIGHTING OF chain information. Therefore, the it doesn’t necessarily mean anything weighting of the scores is intended bad. It just means they’re not THE SCORES to emphasise increasing levels of disclosing their efforts publicly. detailed disclosure, especially when it comes to publishing supplier lists and the results of supplier assessments. We are rewarding granularity.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. POLICY & COMMITMENTS GOVERNANCE TRACEABILITY KNOW, SHOW & FIX SPOTLIGHT ISSUES

TOTAL POSSIBLE POINTS (250) 48 13 85 74 30

WEIGHTING (%) 19% 5% 34% 30% 12% FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 20 ABOUT THE METHODOLOGY

The first methodology was created by The methodology has been designed The methodology is based on How does the 2018 methodology Ethical Consumer in 2016 with input by the Fashion Revolution team, led existing international standards differ from last year? from Fashion Revolution. For 2017, by Sarah Ditty and Carry Somers, and benchmarks including: UN Fashion Revolution took the lead on the with consultative input and feedback Sustainable Development Goals, Small tweaks and changes have project’s development and considerably from a committee of pro bono UN Guiding Principles, OECD Due been made to the 2018 methodology, revised the methodology. We spent four industry experts, including: Diligence Guidelines, Ethical Trading building on the 2017 methodology months consulting a diverse group of Initiative Base Code, and Fair Labor revision process. In the first four more than 20 industry experts on this • Dr Mark Anner, Director of Centre Association’s Freedom of Association sections, the methodology has seen revision process. The new methodology for Global Workers’ Rights at guidelines. It has also been developed minor tweaks in order to clarify the focuses exclusively on public disclosure Penn State University to align as much as possible with other wording. Section five “Spotlight Issues” change focus each year, and this is of supply chain information, and we • Neil Brown, Alliance Trust Investments industry benchmarks and relevant changed the weighting of the scores to initiatives including the Transparency where readers might notice changes. emphasise increasing levels of detailed • Professor Ian Cook, Pledge, Corporate Human Rights disclosure, especially in regards to University of Exeter Benchmark and Know The Chain. This year, the “Spotlight Issues” are “Women. Workers. Waste." Fashion disclosing supplier information. We • Orsola de Castro, co-founder of We recognise that the methodology Revolution’s team has chosen these have updated the methodology again in Fashion Revolution and waste expert 2018, making small changes for clarity is not perfect and can always three areas of focus to align with our and selecting new 'Spotlight Issues.' • Subindhu Garkhel, be improved. We welcome any forthcoming work on the UN Sustainable Fairtrade Foundation feedback on how to make it better. Development Goals. The scoring in each of the five sections has been adjusted • Jenny Holdcroft, IndustriALL For further detail of the exact only very slightly to accommodate the • Dr Alessandra Mezzadri, methodology, download the 2018 tweaks and new Spotlight Issues. We SOAS, University of London brand questionnaire template. don’t expect these changes to have a large overall impact on the ability to • Joe Sutcliffe, Advisor - Dignified compare trends and progress year- Work, CARE International on-year, but the changes do affect • Heather Webb, Ethical Consumer direct comparability of data year- on-year at a more granular level. • And several others experts who wished to remain anonymous at this time. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 21 HOW WERE A-Z OF BRANDS THE 150 BRANDS Abercrombie & Fitch George at ASDA (Walmart) Nike SELECTED? Adidas Gildan Activewear Nine West Aéropostale Giorgio Armani Nordstrom Amazon Gucci (Kering Group) Old Navy (Gap Inc.) American Eagle GUESS? OVS ANTA Sports (ANTA International) H&M Pernambucanas Anthropologie (URBN) Hanes Prada Armani Heilan Home Primark (Associated British Foods) Asics Corporation Hermès Pull&Bear (Inditex) ASOS Hudson's Bay (HBC) Puma (Kering Group) Brands have been chosen on the We have deliberately listed brands Banana Republic (Gap Inc.) Hugo Boss Ralph Lauren basis of annual turnover of over in our report rather than the parent Barney's Jack & Jones (Bestseller) Reebok (Adidas) Benetton JCPenney Ross Stores US$500 million and represent company because consumers will Bershka (Inditex) J.Crew Renner a spread of market segments be most familiar with brand names. Bloomingdale's (Macy's) JD Sports Ross Stores including high street, luxury, bonprix (Otto Group) Jordan (Nike, Inc.) Russell Athletic (Fruit of the Loom) 98 of the brands in the 2018 report Bottega Veneta (Kering Group) Jessica Simpson (Sequentional s.Oliver sportswear, accessories, footwear Brooks Brothers Brands Group) Sainsburys - Tu Clothing and denim from across Europe, North were included in last year’s report, Burberry Joe Fresh (Loblaw) Sak's Fifth Avenue (HBC) meaning there are 52 new brands Burlington John Lewis Salvatore Ferragamo America, South America and Asia. C&A Jordan Sandro (SMCP) this year. We intend to expand the Calvin Klein (PVH) Kate Spade (Tapestry, Inc) Sports Direct We relied on publicly available number of brands and retailers Calzedonia Kik (Tengelmann) Stradivarius (Inditex) Carolina Herrera (Puig Group) Kohl's Superdry (Supergroup) financial information to select included in next year’s edition. Celine Lacoste Takko (Hettlage group) brands and retailers. Some Champion (HanesBrands) Lands’ End Target companies are privately held and Chanel Levi Strauss & Co Tchibo Chico's Lidl UK (Lidl Stiftung & Co. KG) Tesco F&F do not publish financial records, Claire's Accessories Lindex (Stockmann) The Buckle including turnover, which means COACH (Tapestry, Inc) Liverpool (El Puerto de Liverpool) The North Face (VF Corp) Columbia Sportswear LL Bean Timberland (VF Corp) we may have been unable to Converse (Nike, Inc.) LOFT TJ Maxx (TJX) include them in this edition. Cortefiel (Grupo Cortefiel) Longchamp Tommy Hilfiger (PVH) Costco Louis Vuitton (LVMH) Topshop (Arcadia Group) Where brands are part of a parent Debenhams Lululemon Tory Burch company with annual turnover Decathlon Macy's Triumph over US$500 million, we have Desigual Mango Under Armour Dick’s Sporting Goods (Conetic) Marc Jacobs (LVMH Uniqlo (Fast Retailing) selected the brand or brands Diesel (OTB Group) Marks & Spencer Urban Outfitters that appear to make up the most Dillard's Massimo Dutti (Inditex) Valentino Dior Matalan Van Heusen (PVH) significant part of their business. Dolce & Gabbana Max Mara (MMFG) Vans (VF Corp) Dressman (Varner Group) Mexx (Eroglu) Vero Moda (BESTSELLER) El Corte Inglés Michael Kors Versace Ermenegildo Zegna Miu Miu (Prada Group) Victoria's Secret Esprit Monoprix (Group Casino) Walmart Express Monsoon Accessorize Wrangler (VF Corp) Falabella Inversiones (Falabella Ltda.) Neiman Marcus Youngor Fendi (LVMH) New Balance YSL (Kering Group) Foot Locker New Look Zalando Forever 21 New York & Co. Zara (Inditex) *In general, the scores for brands that are part of a parent company apply to all of the subsidiaries in the parent company, not just the brands included in this report. There are some exceptions: for example, G-Star New Yorker George at ASDA and Walmart; Puma and the other Kering Group brands, Lidl UK. Gap Next FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 22 HOW DOES THE SCORING WORK?

How do brands and retailers What else to note about Many companies produce annual How is the research conducted? receive points? the scoring? reports that span 200-400 pages; The Fashion Transparency Index uses Points are awarded only as such, there is a notable margin Brands' and retailers' individual only publicly disclosed information based on public disclosure via for human error. It is not always scores are not as important as the about each brand’s policies, procedures, published communications possible to catch everything. However, ranges in which they have scored. performance and progress on human from the following places: our research team endeavoured to be as thorough, accurate and rights and environmental issues across • On the company’s website(s); In this sort of benchmarking exercise, fair as possible. All averages in its supply chains. We rely solely on • In annual reports or annual it is not always easy to fit complex this report represent the mean. information available on the brands’ sustainability/CSR reports (only and nuanced issues into one neat and websites, in their annual reports counted if dated January 2016 or later) uniform methodology. Therefore, we (published January 2016 or later), or published on the company website(s); want to stress that you use the Fashion QUESTIONNAIRE RESPONSE via third party websites when linked Transparency Index findings to reflect • In any other documents which to directly from the brands’ website. on general trends in transparency rather are publicly available and can 57% 43% than focus on whether brands scored We also sent each brand a be downloaded freely from did not respond or of brands a point higher or lower than another declined the opportunity completed questionnaire in order to help us identify the company's website(s); to complete the and returned a brand overall or in any particular area. questionnaire questionnaire where information is publicly disclosed • Via third party websites but only and to clarify information we found when linked to directly from the Although we have designed the through our team’s own research. company's own website (i.e. there methodology to be as objective and Brands were given approximately one is a direct link from the company's comparable as possible, there is a month to complete the questionnaire. website to the third party website.) degree of human interpretation required The completed questionnaires were for each question. Furthermore, there analysed by our research team and is no common template that brands The weighting of the scores is intended to scores were awarded where appropriate. and retailers use for reporting on emphasise increasing levels of detailed social and environmental issues. disclosure; we are rewarding granularity. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 23

The research was conducted by Sarah What is beyond the scope? Ditty, Carry Somers, Aidan Shaw, Ilishio Lovejoy, Fionnuala Walravens, Aphra Fashion Transparency Index Kennedy-Fletcher, Eduardo Iracheta does not offer an in-depth and Michelle Lai with further support analysis of the content, quality or from Lowell Chow and Sienna Somers accuracy of a company’s policies, between January and April 2018. procedures, performance and progress in any given area. The pro-bono consultation committee members were called upon in Verification of claims made by brands special circumstances to provide and retailers is beyond the scope guidance on their areas of expertise of this study. We have designed the but were not involved in the final methodology to provide insights scoring of the brands and retailers. that reveal patterns of disclosure, are comparable over time and allow Should you know of any remaining brands to see where they stand on inaccuracies, please contact us transparency compared to their peers. at [email protected] and we will take this into Limitations of the research account for the next edition. Our team researched and scored What is the scope of brands regardless of whether they the research? completed the questionnaire or not. However, brands that completed The Fashion Transparency Index has the questionnaire were more likely been designed to give an illustrative to receive a higher score simply look at how much brands know and because our researchers will have share about their supply chains. We been alerted to further information have deliberately chosen to focus we hadn’t already found ourselves. specifically on transparency by means of public disclosure and not everything However, there are limits to desk- that brands and retailers are doing based research, and only on-the- internally or otherwise behind-the- ground research by NGOs, unions scenes across their companies and and academics can reveal the true supply chains. Brands and retailers impacts of brands' policies and may very well have excellent policies practices in real-world situations. and programmes in place internally, By encouraging brands and retailers but if they’re not shared publicly to become more transparent, the then they’re not counted here. Fashion Transparency Index hopes to facilitate the excellent work of NGOs, unions and academics doing this type of on-the-ground, in-country work. [RIGHT] PHOTOGRAPHY © PURECOTZ for Fairtrade Foundation www.fairtrade.org.uk FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 24

THE FINAL SCORES

To download the full spreadsheet of results, click here. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 25

A ROUGH GUIDE Total scores were out of 250 possible points, which we have TO THE SCORING converted into percentages. We chose to group brands into score ranges because we want readers to focus on emerging patterns and trends rather than individual scores.

0—10% 11—20% 21—30% 31—40% 41—50% 51—60% 61—70% 71—80% 81—90% 91—100%

TRANSPARENCY

Brands scoring between Brands scoring between Brands scoring between Brands scoring between Brands scoring over 40% Brands scoring 51-60% No brands score above 60% but if they 0-5% are disclosing nothing 11-20% are likely to be 21-30% are likely to be 31-40% are the brands who are those who are most are disclosing all of the did these brands would be disclosing all at all or a very limited publishing many policies, publishing much more are publishing suppliers likely to be publishing more information already of the information already described as number of policies, which some procedures and detailed information lists as well as detailed detailed supplier lists, some described in the other ranges well as publishing detailed information tend to be related to the some information about about their policies, information about their will be publishing processing and will be publishing about assessment and remediation brand's job hiring practices their supplier assessment procedures, social and policies, procedures, social facilities as well as detailed supplier lists which findings for specific facilities and detailed or local community and remediation environmental goals and and environmental goals, manufacturers — in addition include manufacturers as supplier lists from manufacturing right engagement activities. processes. These brands supplier assessment and supplier assessment and to detailed information about well as processing facilities. down to raw materials. These brands will most likely not be remediation processes. remediation processes. their policies, procedures, These brands will be would be disclosing the number of Brands scoring between publishing supplier lists. These may be publishing These brands are also more social and environmental publishing the vast majority workers in their supply chain covered 5-10% are likely to be a supplier list but not with likely to be addressing a few goals, supplier assessment of policies, procedures and by collective bargaining agreements or publishing some policies many details other than of the Spotlight Issues such and remediation processes future goals. part of independent democratically- for both its own employees factory name and address. capacity building for female and general assessment elected trade unions. These brands and suppliers. Those closer These brands will not widely supply chain workers, findings. These brands would be their mapping social and to 10% are likely to be be disclosing information collective bargaining and/or are also more likely to be environmental impacts into their financial publishing a basic supplier on the “Spotlight Issues.” textile and clothing waste. addressing the Spotlight business model. We would be able code of conduct and Issues such as the gender to find details about the company’s some detailed information pay gap, capacity building for gender pay gap, number of women about their procedures female supply chain workers, in executive and management roles and possibly supplier collective bargaining and how women’s issues are being assessment process. and/or textile waste and addressed in the supply chain. circular resources. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 26

THE FINAL SCORES

0-10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% 51-60% 61-70% 71-80% 81-90% 91-100%

Amazon 10 George at ASDA 30 Calvin Klein 38 ASOS 50 Adidas 58 Superdry 20 Ross Stores 10 New Look 29 Tommy Hilfiger 38 Levi Strauss & Co 47 Reebook 58 Jack & Jones 20 Monsoon Accessorize 9 bonprix 29 Van Heusen 38 The North Face 46 Puma 56 Vero Moda 20 Triumph 9 New Balance 29 Hugo Boss 38 Timberland 46 H&M 55 Salvatore Ferragamo 20 Valentino 9 LOFT 29 Lindex 37 Vans 46 Esprit 54 Victoria's Secret 19 Takko 9 Uniqlo 29 Gucci 37 Wrangler 46 Banana Republic 54 GUESS? 19 Armani 8 Zalando 27 Bottega Veneta 36 G-Star 45 Gap 54 Mango 18 Kohl's 8 Asics Corporation 26 YSL 36 Tchibo 42 Old Navy 54 Bloomingdale's 18 Michael Kors 7 Topshop 26 Converse 36 Bershka 42 C&A 53 Macy's 18 Express 7 Hermès 26 Jordan 36 Massimo Dutti 42 Marks & Spencer 51 TJ Maxx 18 Sainsburys – Tu Clothing 7 Walmart 25 Nike 36 Pull & Bear 42 Nordstrom 17 Calzedonia 6 Dressman 24 Primark 36 Stradivarius 42 Russell Athletic 17 Forever 21 6 Champion 24 Lululemon 35 Zara 42 Decathlon 17 Lacoste 6 Hanes 24 Benetton 35 Falabella 16 Anthropologie 6 John Lewis 24 Target 35 JCPenney 16 Urban Outfitters 6 OVS 23 Gildan Activewear 33 Kik 16 Neiman Marcus 6 Debenhams 23 Burberry 33 Fendi 15 Aéropostale 5 Columbia Sportswear Co 22 Next 33 Cortefiel 15 Sports Direct 5 Hudson's Bay 22 Tesco – F&F 31 Costco – Kirkland Carolina Herrera 5 Signature 15 Sak's Fifth Avenue 22 Ermenegildo Zegna 5 Lidl UK 15 Under Armour 22 Foot Locker 5 Miu Miu 15 COACH 21 Matalan 5 Prada 15 Lands' End 21 Versace 4 American Eagle 15 Diesel 4 Louis Vuitton 15 Marc Jacobs 3 Abercrombie & Fitch 14 Tory Burch 3 Ralph Lauren 14 Chanel 3 J.Crew 13 LL Bean 3 Monoprix 13 Youngor 3 El Corte Inglés 13 ANTA Sports 2 JD Sports 13 New York & Co. 2 Kate Spade 12 Claire's Accessories 2 Burlington 12 Dolce & Gabbana 1 Dick's Sporting Goods 12 Brooks Brothers 1 Joe Fresh 12 New Yorker 1 Chico's 11 Longchamp 0 Dillards 11 Max Mara 0 The Buckle 11 Barney's New York 0 Desigual 0 Dior 0 Heilan Home 0 Jessica Simpson 0 Liverpool 0 Mexx 0 s. Oliver 0 Nine West 0 Sandro 0

* Brands ranked in numerical order by score out of 250, but shown as rounded-up percentage. Where brands have the same percentage score, they are listed in alphabetical order and grouped with others from same parent company FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 27 OVERALL ANALYSIS

This is positive news and indicates Still a long way to go Ten brands and retailers lead BRANDS AND RETAILERS THAT towards transparency the path towards greater that many major brands and HAVE SIGNIFICANTLY INCREASED transparency amongst the retailers are making significant THEIR LEVEL OF DISCLOSURE The overall average score amongst major corporate players efforts to share more information OVERALL, INCLUDE: the 150 brands and retailers is 21%, or about their suppliers and social and Adidas and Reebok top the Index again 52 out of 250 total possible points — a environmental policies and practices. +22% The North Face 1% increase in transparency from the this year at 58% followed by Puma, 2017 results. This shows that there is H&M, Esprit, Banana Republic, Gap, Old Major luxury brands move +22% Timberland still a long way for major brands and Navy, C&A and Marks & Spencer in the towards transparency +22% Wrangler retailers to go towards transparency. 51-60% range. ASOS is shortly behind at 50% having significantly increased In the past two years of conducting +19% C&A However, these overall averages should their level of disclosure since last year, this research, we have seen the luxury +18% ASOS brands publicly disclose less about not be read as ‘little to no improvement’ followed by Levi Strauss & Co and +17% Esprit by the brands and retailers in this then The North Face, Timberland, Vans, their social and environmental policies Index. We have reviewed dozens of Wrangler (all owned by VF Corp.), G-Star, and practices than other major brands +16% Benetton extra companies this year, which were Tchibo and Bershka, Massimo Dutti, and retailers, but we are starting to +12% Levi Strauss & Co. not included in last year’s report, and Pull & Bear, Stradivarius and Zara (all see this trend change. Taking a look +12% Primark thus the overall average score doesn’t owned by Inditex) in the 41-50% range. at the premium and luxury brands reflect the fact that 16 brands and included in this year’s report, we see +12% Next retailers have increased their level of Dozens of big brands and that Hugo Boss, Calvin Klein, Tommy +12% New Balance transparency by over 10% this year. Hilfiger, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, YSL and retailers making efforts to be +11% LOFT more transparent Burberry score in the 31-40% range, When we compare the 98 brands and with Hugo Boss increasing its score by +11% Hugo Boss retailers* that were included in both the This year, 65 brands and retailers (or 11%, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger +11% Under Armour 2017 and 2018 Fashion Transparency 43%) have scored 21% or higher — above increasing their score by 9% and Gucci, Index, we have seen these brands the mean average score — compared to Bottega Veneta and YSL increasing +11% Lululemon and retailers increase their level 43 brands and retailers (or 43%) in 2017. their score by 8% this year. Hugo Boss, +11% Zalando of transparency by an average of 42 brands and retailers (or 28%) have Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger are approximately 5% overall and across scored 31% or higher, compared to 20 the only premium/luxury brands to each section of the methodology. brands and retailers (or 20%) in 2017. have published a list of their Tier 1 This increase in scores is largely due to these brands and retailers publishing their supplier lists suppliers, whilst Hermès is disclosing either for the first time or with much greater detail.  both Tier 1 and processing facilities. * Brazilian brands Pernambucanas and Renner were excluded from the 2018 report as they will instead be included in the forthcoming Fashion Transparency Index Brazil report, due out later in 2018 FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 28

Too many big brands are publishing a list of their Tier 1 their process for fixing problems when detailed data disclosure, the type and retailers continue to factories — in other words, where violations are found in a supplier facility. of information that enables greater lack transparency their clothes are typically cut, sewn accountability for environmental and completed. This means 37% of Less than half the brands and and working conditions, not enough 12 brands and retailers (8%) have scored brands and retailers in this report are retailers publish an equal pay is being made publicly available. 0% in 2018, compared to three (3%) disclosing who their suppliers are, up policy and even fewer disclose in the 2017 report. These brands and from 32% last year (32 brands in 2017). gender pay gap Public disclosure of supply chain retailers' lack of disclosure brings down information is often buried in brands the overall average score, despite many These supplier lists have become a lot Approximately 40% of the brands and and retailers’ websites, housed on brands disclosing considerably more more detailed too, including information retailers publish a policy on equal pay external micro-sites, in 300+ page information this year compared to 2017. such as factory street address, types of both for their own employees and in their annual reports or simply not available products they make and the number of supply chain. Meanwhile, less than half at all. You would need a lot of time to Dior, Heilan Home and s.Oliver continue workers. More brands and retailers are (47%) of brands and retailers disclose find the relevant information and would to disclose nothing, and this year also publishing a list of their processing the percentage of women in executive require nuanced knowledge to make we are seeing next to nothing from facilities — 27 brands (18%) this year and management positions within the sense of the types of information that Barney’s New York, Desigual, Jessica verses 14 brands (14%) in 2017. We dig company, and only 14% of the brands brands and retailers’ typically disclose. Simpson, Longchamp, Liverpool, into the details later on pages 44-45. and retailers publish the annual gender Max Mara, Mexx (who at the time of pay gap within the company. Those that There is still a lack of consistent researching did not have an active Many more brands and retailers are are publishing the gender pay gap tend standards for reporting on social website), Nine West and Sandro. sharing the name (55% in 2018; 43% in to be British companies, which as of 4 and environmental issues. There 2017) and direct contact details of the April 2018, are required to do so by law. is no common template. Brands 25 brands and retailers (17%) have person with lead responsibility for social present information in many different scored less than 5% this year, compared and environmental performance in the Information shared by formats, using all sorts of language to nine brands and retailers (9%) in company (24% in 2018; 15% in 2017). major brands and retailers and industry jargon and present it remains difficult to navigate, using an array of different visuals. 2017. 48 brands and retailers (32%) are More brands and retailers (12% in jargon-heavy and shallow scoring in the bottom 0-10% range 2018; 7% in 2017) — but still very No wonder even the most conscious overall, compared to 32 brands and few — are disclosing how company Many of our conclusions from last consumers find it all so confusing. retailers (32%) last year — showing that employees' (e.g. sourcing team, How are we supposed to make many brands and retailers are still year’s report can be reiterated and buyers, designers) incentives are tied emphasised in this 2018 review. informed decisions about what we lagging far behind, disclosing very little to improvements in human rights buy when the information is either about their social and environmental and environmental management. While we are seeing brands begin to entirely absent or presented in practices. Even if they are doing good publish more about their social and such varied and diffuse ways? things ‘behind-the-scenes,’ they are Interestingly, there has been a notable environmental efforts — which is not sharing this information publicly. increase in brands and retailers that are welcome and totally necessary — there What is most needed is for governments publishing anti-bribery and corruption is still much crucial information about to legally require that brands and Where has transparency policies both for the companies’ the practices of the fashion industry retailers disclose supplier lists and amongst the brands and workforce and for their suppliers. We that remains concealed. Far more social and environmental information retailers changed the most? are not sure why this is the case and space is still given to brands and using a common framework. See page may be worth looking into in the future. retailers' values and beliefs than to 61 for further explanation. Without In positive news, far more brands their actions and outcomes. When it this, brands will continue to willingly Finally, 62% of brands and retailers and retailers are publishing a list of comes to comprehensive, comparable, publish only selected information and their suppliers. 55 of the 150 brands (up from 40% in 2017) are disclosing in whatever format they determine best. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 29 QUICK FINDINGS

Average score is 52 out of 250 Not a single (21%). 1% more brand is scoring than last year. above 60%

12 brands scored 0%, disclosing next to nothing  Only 10 brands score higher than 50%

40

20 NO. OF BRANDS OF NO.

0 1-10 11-20 21-30 31-40 41-50 51-60 61-70 71-80 81-90 91-100

FINAL SCORE (%)

TRANSPARENCY FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 30

THE SCORES ACROSS THE 5 KEY AREAS FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 31 AVERAGE SCORES ACROSS THE SECTIONS

46% 36% 11% 17% 12% 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. POLICY & GOVERNANCE TRACEABILITY KNOW, SHOW & FIX SPOTLIGHT ISSUES COMMITMENTS

Gucci is the only brand to score The largest number of brands More brands are publishing The highest concentration of By far the highest number of all 48 possible points in this (37) score less than 10%. 19 supplier lists this year. 55 brands (52) fall in the 0-10% brands score in the lowest section. There are clearly three brands (13%) fall in the 41-50% brands (37%) are publishing range disclosing little about range in this section, 0-10%. ranges where brands’ scores range. 11 brands (7%) score in tier 1 suppliers. 27 brands their supplier assessment and Marks & Spencer comes out are concentrated: 20 or more the highest range, 91-100%. C&A, (18%) brands are publishing supplier remediation processes. highest at 60% of total possible brands’ scores fall in each range Esprit and Marks & Spencer their processing facilities. Banana Republic, Gap and Old points, meaning it publishes 0-10%, 51-60% and 81-90%. score 100%, meaning that Only ASOS is publishing their Navy (all owned by Gap, Inc.) the most information about they’re disclosing who in the raw material suppliers too, score highest in the 51-60% its efforts to address issues By and large, brands team is responsible for social which makes them the highest range. Brands often disclose such as gender equality, are disclosing the most and environmental issues, scoring brand in this section. their supplier assessment collective bargaining and about their policies and along with their contact details, G-Star, C&A and the Gap Inc. processes and procedures. freedom of association as commitments on social and board level accountability, brands score comparatively However, brands share little well as textile recycling, environmental issues. and how other staff and well because their supplier lists information about the results clothing waste and circular suppliers are incentivised include detailed information of these efforts nor do brands resources. Only 10 brands to improve performance. such as types of products/ share much about the effects (7%) score higher than 40%. services and number of of their efforts to fix problems workers in each facility. in factories when found. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 32 1. POLICY & COMMITMENTS APPROACH

What are the brand’s human rights and We typically found this information in the Social & environmental priorities environmental policies and procedures for following places: and goals for the future its own workforce and suppliers? • Brand/retailer commercial website; In this section, we also looked at whether brands • Brand/retailer corporate website; and retailers are disclosing their top human rights We looked at the following issues: and environmental priorities (often in the form of a • Brand/retailer sustainability or CSR microsite; materiality matrix). Certain issues will be more relevant • Animal Welfare • Living Conditions/ • Parent company website; and of higher risk or importance to brands and its • Annual Leave & Dormitories • Brand/retailer or parent company investor relations stakeholders than others. We did not award points if Public Holidays • Maternity Rights/ website (so long as it is web-linked somewhere to brands and retailers count their entire sustainability • Anti-bribery, Corruption Parental Leave the brand/company main website); or Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) report as a & Presentation of • Notice Period, Dismissal • Another external third party website (e.g. online materiality assessment. False Information & Disciplinary Action data platform, NGO, data sharing initiative, another We also looked to see whether brands and retailers • Biodiversity • Overtime Pay benchmark questionnaire) but only when web-linked are publishing their goals or a strategic roadmap for • Child Labour • Restricted directly to the brand/retailer or parent company website; Substance List improving social and environmental impacts across • Community Engagement • Annual report published by the brand/retailer and this • Sub-contracting, the supply chain. We only counted these goals if • Contracts & Terms webpage or website linked to their brand/company of Employment Outsourcing & they were reaching into the future, time-bound and Homeworkers main website somewhere (usually PDF or Word doc); measurable. Brands also scored an additional point if • Discrimination • Wages & Financial • Sustainability, CSR, human rights or environmental progress was reported annually. • Diversity & Inclusion Benefits (e.g. bonuses, impact reports published by the brand/retailer • Energy & Carbon insurance, social and this webpage or website linked to their brand/ Finally, we looked to see if brands and retailers have Emissions security, pensions) company website main somewhere (usually PDF or their annual sustainability or CSR reports audited by an • Equal Pay • Waste & Recycling Word doc); independent third party organisation, typically done by (Packaging/Paper) • Forced or Bonded • Financial statements published by the brand/retailer one of the big global accounting firms. Labour • Waste & Recycling and this webpage or website linked to their brand/ (Product/Textiles) • Foreign & Migrant Labour company main website somewhere (usually PDF or • Water Effluents • Freedom of Association, Word doc). Right to Organise & & Treatment Collective Bargaining • Water Usage • Harassment & Abuse • Working Hours & Rest • Health & Safety Breaks & Footprint FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 33

1. POLICY & COMMITMENTS

0-10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% 51-60% 61-70% 71-80% 81-90% 91-100%

Calzedonia 10 Anthropologie 20 Debenhams 30 Falabella 40 Monprix 49 New Balance 60 ASOS 70 Gildan Activewear 80 Esprit 90 Gucci 100 Diesel 8 Urban Outfitters 20 Abercrombie & Fitch 29 Ralph Lauren 40 Kik 48 Lindex 59 Lululemon 70 Zalando 80 Puma 90 Bottega Veneta 98 Chanel 7 Michael Kors 20 Lacoste 29 Costco – Kirkland COACH 46 LOFT 59 Next 70 Levi Strauss & Co 77 Bershka 88 YSL 98 Signature 39 ANTA Sports 6 Sports Direct 18 Monsoon Accessorize 29 Champion 44 Louis Vuitton 59 OVS 69 G-Star 75 Massimo Dutti 88 Adidas 97 American Eagle 36 Dolce & Gabbana 6 Aéropostale 16 Ross Stores 29 Hanes 44 Nordstrom 59 Uniqlo 68 Topshop 73 Pull & Bear 88 Reebok 97 J.Crew 36 LL Bean 6 Dillards 16 Russell Athletic 28 Dressman 44 John Lewis 58 Walmart 68 Target 72 Stradivarius 88 Marks & Spencer 93 Under Armour 36 New York & Co. 6 Kohl's 16 Chico's 27 JCPenney 44 Salvatore Ferragamo 58 George at ASDA 67 Zara 88 H&M 92 Amazon 35 Claire's Accessories 5 Carolina Herrera 15 Joe Fresh 27 TJ Maxx 42 Primark 57 Tesco – F&F 67 Banana Republic 86 Calvin Klein 91 Columbia Sportswear Co 33 Marc Jacobs 4 Tory Burch 15 Triumph 27 Hudson's Bay 41 Hermès 56 Lands' End 66 Gap 86 Tommy Hilfiger 91 Armani 32 Brooks Brothers 3 Matalan 14 Valentino 27 Sak's Fifth Avenue 41 Miu Miu 56 New Look 66 Old Navy 86 Van Heusen 91 El Corte Inglés 32 New Yorker 3 Versace 14 Burlington 26 Prada 56 Asics Corporation 63 Tchibo 86 The Buckle 32 Max Mara 2 Youngor 14 JD Sports 26 Decathlon 54 bonprix 63 The North Face 84 Kate Spade 31 Barney's New York 1 Ermenegildo Zenga 13 Takko 26 Jack & Jones 54 Fendi 63 Timberland 84 Lidl UK 31 Desigual 0 Dick's Sporting Goods 25 Vero Moda 54 Vans 84

Dior 0 Express 21 Superdry 54 Wrangler 84

Heilan Home 0 Foot Locker 21 Mango 53 C&A 83 Jessica Simpson 0 Forever 21 21 Benetton 52 Hugo Boss 83 Liverpool 0 Neiman Marcus 21 Bloomingdale's 52 Converse 83 Longchamp 0 Sainsburys – Tu Clothing 21 Macy's 52 Jordan 83 Mexx 0 Victoria's Secret 52 Nike 83 Nine West 0 Cortefiel 51 Burberry 82 s. Oliver 0 GUESS? 51 Sandro 0

* Brands ranked in numerical order by score out of 250, but shown as the nearest full percentage. Where brands have the same percentage score, they are listed in alphabetical order and grouped with others from same parent company FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 34 1. POLICY & COMMITMENTS FINDINGS

HOW MANY BRANDS PUBLISH POLICIES?*

In Supplier Code of Conduct Forced & Bonded Labour 118 Applying to brand’s Discrimination 114 118 own employees Health & Safety 102 118 Child Labour 116 Harassment & Abuse 95 115 Freedom of Association, Right to Organise & Collective Bargaining 40 110

Wages & Financial Benefits (e.g. bonuses, insurance, social security, pensions) 69 106 Working Hours & Rest Breaks 51 104 Anti-bribery, Corruption, & Presentation of False Information 93 107 Sub-contracting, Outsourcing & Homeworkers 87 Overtime Pay 84 Living Conditions/Dormitories 76 Energy & Carbon Emissions 73 107 Contracts & Terms of Employment 28 71 Water Effluents & Treatment 67 Equal Pay 58 61 Water Usage & Footprint 47 67 Foreign & Migrant Labour 43 Notice Period, Dismissal & Disciplinary Action 18 43 Biodiversity 41 53

Annual Leave & Public Holidays 40 41

Waste & Recycling (Product/Textiles) 34 59 Maternity Rights & Parental Leave 33 39 Community Engagement 32 110 Animal Welfare 79 Diversity & Inclusion 103 Restricted Substance List 62

Waste & Recycling (Packaging/Office/Retail) 102

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 * Graph ordered by most common policies that apply to suppliers FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 35 1. POLICY & COMMITMENTS FINDINGS

SNAPSHOT OF FINDINGS

53% of brands publish an 39% of brands publish an 41% of brands publish an 79% of brands publish a 53% of brands disclose how Animal Welfare policy Equal Pay policy that applies Equal Pay policy that applies policy on Forced or Bonded their Forced or Bonded Labour to direct employees to supply chain workers Labour in the supply chain policy is put into practice

77% of brands publish a 39% of brands disclose 37% of brands publish 55% of brands publish 51% of brands disclose Child Labour policy how their Child Labour measurable, long-term measurable, long- annual, up-to-date policy is put into practice commitments or goals on term commitments disclosure of progress improving human rights or goals on improving towards achieving those goals environmental impacts FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 36 1. POLICY & COMMITMENTS IMPLICATIONS

Brands and retailers publish the Clear policies on Freedom of Less than one-third of brands and retailers Roughly half of brands publish most information about their Association but fewer (29%) publish a policy on foreign and social and environmental goals policies and commitments but procedures published migrant workers in the supply chain — a much less on performance salient issue that was brought to light by a Over half of the brands and retailers (55%) and impacts 73% of brands and retailers publish a 2016 BBC television programme investigation publish measurable, time-bound goals on policy on freedom of association, the right that found Syrian refugee children working improving environmental impacts across Over half (53%) of the brands and to organise and collective bargaining for in garment factories in Turkey supplying their value chain but only 37% publish retailers publish an animal welfare supply chain workers — a fundamental several high street brands. For some of the goals on improving human rights. Roughly policy but only 35% disclose a policy on basic human right guaranteed by articles brands implicated in this situation, it was half (51%) are reporting on the progress protecting biodiversity. 41% publish a 20 and 23 of the Universal Declaration a matter of unauthorised subcontracting. they’re making towards achieving these Restricted Substances List showing which of Human Rights, the United States Bill Despite unauthorised subcontracting goals, although reporting often covers only harmful chemicals are banned from of Rights, article 11 of the European being such a challenging issue for brands environmental aspects. their products. 72% publish information Convention on Human Rights and by and retailers to tackle, only 58% publish about their programmes and activities to many other modern and democratic a policy on subcontracting, outsourcing Low level of independent verification tackle energy consumption and carbon legal systems. But only 39% of brands and/or homeworkers in the supply chain. of social and environmental reporting emissions, an issue upon which brands and retailers disclose their procedures for However, several brands have extensive 33% of the brands and retailers are and retailers appear to be fairly active. Over ensuring that their Freedom of Association detailed policies on foreign and migrant publishing an annual sustainability or three-quarters (76%) of the brands and policies are put into practice. workers, such as ASOS, Levi Strauss & Co., corporate responsibility report in which retailers publish a policy on discrimination Topshop and others. the non-financial information is audited within the company. But only 39% publish 71% of brands and retailers disclose or verified by an independent third party. a policy on equal pay between men and policies on wages for workers in the supply Detailed environmental policies This has typically been done by big women employed by the brand, i.e. those chain, and 56% publish a specific policy on not often part of Supplier Codes accounting firms such as Deloitte, Ernst & who work at their head office location, overtime pay. The Garment Worker Diaries of Conduct Young, KMPG and PricewaterhouseCoopers in retail stores and in other workplaces research showed that workers participating (PwC). Third party verification is required directly controlled by the company. in the study in Bangladesh regularly work We were surprised to learn that many more than 60 hours per week (see page 56 brands and retailers do not publish by law in France, so many of the brands Brands widely publish policies for more info.) Less than half (48%) of the specific environmental policies for their receiving these points will be French-based on human rights brands and retailers disclose procedures, suppliers. Less than half of the brands and companies. Overall brands and retailers beyond auditing for compliance, that retailers (49%) disclose policies aimed at are still publishing more information about Just over three-quarters of brands and ensure their policies on wages and suppliers on carbon emissions and energy their policy and commitments than they retailers disclose policies on child labour benefits are being implemented. reduction. Only 45% of brands and retailers are about how they govern sustainability (77%), forced labour (79%), discrimination publish policies on water effluents and issues, who their suppliers are, how they are (79%), harassment and abuse (77%) and treatment, and only 31% publish policies assessing their suppliers and the results health and safety (79%) in the supply chain on water consumption at supplier facilities. of these assessments. This was the case — issues that arguably represent some of the Just 23% of the brands and retailers in last year’s report, and we will see that most egregious violations of human rights. publish a policy on textile waste and another year on, this trend has not changed. recycling in their supplier guidelines. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 37 2. GOVERNANCE APPROACH

Who in the company is Employee and responsible for social and Supplier incentives environmental impacts? "Now, in the Finally, we looked to see if brands are In this section, we were looking for disclosing how their employees hyper-connected the name and role of the person with beyond the sustainability/CSR team lead responsibility in the company (designers, buyers, sourcing for social and environmental managers, etc.) are incentivised and ever performance. We also scored the (through performance targets or brands and retailers on whether they bonuses) to achieve improvements published the direct contact details in social and environmental impacts. evolving world, for this person, or at least contact We also looked for the same sort details for a relevant department of incentives (such as long-term such as the sustainability/CSR team. sourcing commitments) tied to transparency is suppliers’ social and environmental We also looked for the name of improvements. the new power." a board member or board committee who is responsible for social and environmental issues and how their oversight is implemented. BENJAMIN HERZBERG This is often the remit of an Ethics PRIVATE SECTOR ENGAGEMENT or Sustainability Committee at FOR GOOD GOVERNANCE, board level. WORLD BANK INSTITUTE FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 38

2. GOVERNANCE

0-10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% 51-60% 61-70% 71-80% 81-90% 91-100%

Abercrombie & Fitch 0 ANTA Sports 15 American Eagle 23 Joe Fresh 38 Asics Corporation 46 Benetton 54 ASOS 69 Burberry 77 Adidas 85 C&A 100 Aéropostale 0 Armani 15 Chico's 23 Mango 38 Banana Republic 46 Columbia Sportswear Co 54 G-Star 69 Dressman 77 Reebok 85 Esprit 100 Amazon 0 Calzedonia 15 Debenhams 23 Bloomingdale's 31 Gap 46 Dillards 54 Lindex 69 Falabella 77 Lululemon 85 Marks & Spencer 100 Anthropologie 0 Carolina Herrera 15 Monsoon Accessorize 23 Macy's 31 Old Navy 46 Tchibo 69 H&M 77 Bottega Veneta 92 Urban Outfitters 0 Chanel 15 New Balance 23 Champion 31 Burlington 46 Bershka 62 Hugo Boss 77 Gucci 92 Barney's New York 0 Costco – Kirkland New Look 23 Hanes 31 George at ASDA 46 Massimo Dutti 62 Zalando 77 YSL 92 Signature 15 Brooks Brothers 0 Russell Athletic 23 Cortefiel 31 GUESS? 46 Pull & Bear 62 Puma 92 Dick's Sporting Goods 15 Claire's Accessories 0 Decathlon 31 Hudson's Bay 46 Stradivarius 62 The North Face 92 El Corte Inglés 15 Desigual 0 Fendi 31 Sak's Fifth Avenue 46 Zara 62 Timberland 92 Hermès 15 Diesel 0 Louis Vuitton 31 JD Sports 46 bonprix 62 Vans 92 Jack & Jones 15 Dior 0 JCPenney 31 Converse 46 Calvin Klein 62 Wrangler 92 Vero Moda 15 Dolce & Gabbana 0 John Lewis 31 Jordan 46 Tommy Hilfiger 62 J.Crew 15 Ermenegildo Zegna 0 Lidl UK 31 Nike 46 Van Heusen 62 Kohl's 15 Express 0 LOFT 31 Kik 46 COACH 62 Lands' End 15 Foot Locker 0 Matalan 31 Miu Miu 46 Gilden Activewear 62 Monoprix 15 Forever 21 0 Ralph Lauren 31 Prada 46 Levi Strauss & Co 62 Nordstrom 15 Heilan Home 0 Sainsburys – Tu Clothing 31 Superdry 46 Next 62 Ross Stores 15 Jessica Simpson 0 Salvatore Ferragamo 31 Target 46 OVS 62 Sports Direct 15 Kate Spade 0 Uniqlo 31 TJ Maxx 46 Primark 62 The Buckle 15 Lacoste 0 Valentino 31 Tesco – F&F 62 Under Armour 15 Liverpool 0 Topshop 62 Versace 15 LL Bean 0 Victoria's Secret 62 Longchamp 0 Walmart 62 Marc Jacobs 0 Max Mara 0 Mexx 0 Michael Kors 0 Neiman Marcus 0 New York & Co. 0 New Yorker 0 Nine West 0 s. Oliver 0 Sandro 0 Takko 0 Tory Burch 0 Triumph 0 Youngor 0

* Brands ranked in numerical order by score out of 250, but shown as the nearest full percentage. Where brands have the same percentage score, they are listed in alphabetical order and grouped with others from same parent company FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 39 2. GOVERNANCE FINDINGS

CAN YOU GET IN TOUCH?

55% of brands publish contact 55% of brands disclose 24% of brands disclose direct Only 9% of brands publish details for sustainability/ name/role of individual contact details for this person contact details on their CSR department with lead responsibility published supplier list on their websites

ACCOUNTABILITY PURCHASING PRACTICES

55% of brands publish 49% of brands describe Only 12% of brands disclose 29% of brands disclose incentives board level responsibility how board accountability is incentives tied to improvements in tied to improvements in human implemented in practice human rights and environmental rights and environmental performance for staff beyond performance for suppliers sustainability team FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 40 2. GOVERNANCE IMPLICATIONS

Getting in touch with brands and Holding individuals accountable retailers 55% of brands and retailers disclose "Transparency 83 brands and retailers (55%) the name of a board member or publish contact details — usually an a board committee that holds is not a choice. email address — for the corporate responsibility for the company’s responsibility or sustainability team, human rights and environmental meaning anyone can get in touch issues. However, only 12% of the The only choice with questions or comments about brands and retailers share publicly the company’s practices. This should that their employees' incentives (i.e. be a really basic thing for brands bonuses, raises and other rewards is, does it happen and retailers to do and shows that for good performance) are tied to they’re willing to hear anyone’s improvements in human rights and concerns and feedback. 36 brands environmental impacts. to you, or do you and retailers (24%) go a step further and publish the contact details of a Overall when it comes to publishing participate in it?." specific person at the company who information about corporate is responsible for environmental and governance on sustainability and human rights issues at the company. CSR issues, brands and retailers are disclosing roughly the same level of information as last year.

ALEX BOGUSKY FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 41 3. TRACEABILITY APPROACH

Are brands publishing lists of their suppliers Disclosing factories, processing facilities and how detailed is this information? and raw material suppliers

This section focused on whether brands are publishing We looked for supplier lists at three levels. lists of their suppliers and what level of detail brands First, are brands disclosing the factories where their are disclosing about these suppliers. clothes are made — e.g. the facilities with which brands have a direct relationship and typically do the cutting, sewing and final trims of products? Second, are brands For example, are brands sharing information disclosing processing facilities further down the supply such as: chain — e.g. from ginning and spinning, through to subcontractors, wet processing, embroidering, printing, • The address of the facility finishing, dye-houses, laundries, and so on? And • The types of products/services made in each finally, are brands disclosing their suppliers of raw supplier facility; materials — e.g. primary substances such as fibres, • Approximate number of workers; hides, rubber, dyes, metals and so on?

• Gender breakdown of workers; We gave extra points if supplier lists are made available • % of migrant or contract workers; in a searchable format, cover more than 95% of their • Date of last audit suppliers and have been updated within the past 12 months. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 42

3. TRACEABILITY

0-10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% 51-60% 61-70% 71-80% 81-90% 91-100%

Champion 20 Hermès 29 Lindex 39 G-Star 49 ASOS 64 Hudson's Bay 9 Hanes 20 Marks & Spencer 27 The North Face 36 C&A 48 Sak's Fifth Avenue 9 Primark 20 Lululemon 25 Timberland 36 Esprit 48 Russell Athletic 9 Target 19 Debenhams 24 Vans 36 Banana Republic 48 Abercrombie & Fitch 6 Jack & Jones 16 Hugo Boss 24 Wrangler 36 Gap 48 Joe Fresh 6 Vero Moda 16 New Look 24 New Balance 35 Old Navy 48 Bottega Veneta 1 Dressman 15 Tchibo 24 Benetton 34 H&M 47 Gucci 1 Bershka 13 Asics Corporation 22 Converse 32 Adidas 46 YSL 1 Massimo Dutti 13 John Lewis 22 Jordan 32 Reebok 46 Burberry 1 Pull&Bear 13 Next 22 Nike 32 Levi Strauss & Co 46 Chanel 1 Stradivarius 13 Under Armour 22 Puma 46 COACH 1 Zara 13 bonprix 21 Fendi 1 George at ASDA 13 Columbia Sportswear Co 21 Louis Vuitton 1 Uniqlo 13 LOFT 21 GUESS? 1 Tesco 12 Lands' End 1 Calvin Klein 11 Miu Miu 1 Tommy Hilfiger 11 Prada 1 Van Heusen 11 OVS 1 Gildan Activewear 11 Ralph Lauren 1 Lidl UK 11 Salvatore Ferragamo 1 Superdry 1 Topshop 1 Aéropostale 0 Amazon 0 American Eagle 0 ANTA Sports 0 Anthropologie 0 Urban Outfitters 0 Armani 0 Barney's New York 0 Bloomingdale's 0 Macy's 0 Brooks Brothers 0 Burlington 0 Calzedonia 0 Carolina Herrera 0 Chico's 0 Claire's Accessories 0 Cortefiel 0 Costco – Kirkland Signature 0 Decathlon 0 Desigual 0 Dick's Sporting Goods 0 Diesel 0 Dillards 0 Dior 0 Dolce & Gabbana 0 El Corte Inglés 0 Ermenegildo Zegna 0 Express 0 Falabella 0 Foot Locker 0 Forever 21 0 Heilan Home 0 JCPenney 0 J.Crew 0 JD Sports 0 Jessica Simpson 0 Kate Spade 0 Kik 0 Kohl's 0 Lacoste 0 Liverpool 0 LL Bean 0 Longchamp 0 Mango 0 Marc Jacobs 0 Matalan 0 Max Mara 0 Mexx 0 Michael Kors 0 Monoprix 0 Monsoon Accessorize 0 Neiman Marcus 0 New York & Co. 0 New Yorker 0 Nine West 0 Nordstrom 0 Ross Stores 0 s. Oliver 0 Sainsbury – Tu Clothing 0 Sandro 0 Sports Direct 0 Takko 0 The Buckle 0 TJ Maxx 0 Tory Burch 0 Triumph 0 Valentino 0 Versace 0 Victoria's Secret 0 Walmart 0 Youngor 0 Zalando 0

* Brands ranked in numerical order by score out of 250, but shown as the nearest full percentage. Where brands have the same percentage score, they are listed in alphabetical order and grouped with others from same parent company FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 43 3. TRACEABILITY FINDINGS

WHO’S PUBLISHING TIER 1 SUPPLIER LISTS?

37% of brands are publishing 31% include the 25% include the types of 20% include approximate Only 7% include gender Only 2% include supplier lists (which facility address products made in the facility number of workers breakdown of workers percentage of migrant covers at least tier 1) in each facility in each facility workers in each facility

WHO'S PUBLISHING BEYOND TIER 1?

31% make this list available 21% disclose that this 18% brands publish 17% include the 39% of brands are tracing 1 brand is publishing its in a searchable format list covers over 95% processing facilities facility address at least one of their raw suppliers of raw materials of their suppliers materials back to source FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 44 3. TRACEABILITY IMPLICATIONS

This is where we have seen the greatest (25%) include what types of products The Transparency Pledge requires that: Transparency Pledge influences improvement in transparency since last or services each supplier provides; 30 "The company will publish on its website key brands to publish year’s report. 55 of the 150 brands are brands (20%) include an approximate on a regular basis (such as twice a year) manufacturers in 2017 publishing a list of their Tier 1 factories — number of workers at each facility; 10 a list naming all sites that manufacture in other words, where their clothes are brands (7%) include the female-to-male its products. The list should provide the 46% of the brands and retailers reviewed typically cut, sewn and completed. This ratio of workers. following information in English: The in the Fashion Transparency Index have means 37% of brands and retailers in this full name of all authorized production been asked to sign the Transparency report are disclosing who their suppliers 46 brands and retailers (31%) units and processing facilities; the site Pledge, 47 of the 150 brands which are are, up from 32% last year in 2017 and publishing Tier 1 suppliers provide this addresses; the parent company of the in the Index and have been contacted 12.5% in 2016. This year, 32 of the 150 information in searchable format, (i.e. business at the site; type of products by the Pledge are publishing a Tier 1 brands (21%) are publishing over 95% of table or spreadsheet) making it much made’ worker numbers at each site. supplier list, although not all of them are their Tier 1 suppliers. more user-friendly for trade unions, Companies will publish the above completely aligned with the Pledge’s journalists and NGOs. The rest of the information in a spreadsheet or other full requirements. 22 brands which are Just a quick note: Tier 1 lists sometimes publishing brands opt for formats searchable format.” The only aspect in the Index and have been contacted include subcontractors of direct such as interactive online maps or we have not included in the Fashion by the Pledge are not yet publishing suppliers. Brands and retailers tend to expandable drop-down menus on Transparency Index is parent company their suppliers. This is reflected in define the different tiers of the supply their website. information, which we will consider the Index's final scoring for section chain differently. For this methodology, adding to the next edition. 72 major three. The brands and retailers who Aligning with the we are referring to the facilities involved apparel and footwear companies were score highest in section three of the Transparency Pledge in the final stages of production, the asked to published their lists by Fashion Transparency Index are those suppliers who typically have a direct that tend to be most aligned with the We have aligned the Fashion 31 December 2017. Just to note that the contractual relationship with the brand requirements of the Transparency Transparency Index methodology Transparency Pledge has contacted and or retailer. Pledge. Over the past year, the with most of the requirements of the tracked progress by company, whereas Transparency Pledge campaign has Transparency Pledge, which is endorsed we are counting by individual brand Several brands provide extra been incredibly effective in motivating by a global civil society coalition and or retailer name (who are sometimes detail about their suppliers brands and retailers to publish supplier outlines a standard approach for the owned by the same company, e.g. PVH lists in a searchable format and to provide 46 brands and retailers (31%) who are disclosure of a manufacturing lists by owning Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and granular detail about these suppliers. publishing Tier 1 lists include a street major apparel and footwear companies. Van Heusen) – so their numbers might address for each supplier; 38 brands look different than ours. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 45

A handful of brands go above or coatings. In our 2017 Index, 14 brands and beyond the others were publishing this information, representing 14% of the brands and "Transparency A few brands and retailers are going retailers reviewed last year, so we have above and beyond the requirements of seen an increase in brands publishing may be the most the Transparency Pledge. Four brands their suppliers further down the chain. include an email address or phone number for each Tier 1 supplier; these Disclosing where raw materials disruptive and include Converse, Jordan, Nike (all come from owned by Nike, Inc.) and Lindex. Three brands — Converse, Jordan, Nike (all Only one brand is publishing where they far-reaching owned by Nike, Inc.) — include the source raw materials. 90% of the fibres percentage of foreign and migrant produced for ASOS products come from workers at each supplier. Although major suppliers Lenzing and Aditya Birla innovation to not covered within the scoring of our with a very small amount sourced from methodology, we thought it interesting Shangdong Yemi and Nanjing Chemicals. come out of to point out that Marks & Spencer is the Last year no brands or retailers were only brand/retailer that includes whether disclosing the source of raw materials. each facility on its Tier 1 supplier list has For future consideration social media." a trade union or workers committee. We would like to see more brands and How brands and retailers will go retailers providing this information and about disclosing their raw materials will consider adding it into next year’s suppliers is ripe for further industry- edition. Having quick access to data on wide discussions. There are debates PAUL GILLIN, TECHNOLOGY JOURNALIST unionisation and worker representation emerging around the sensitivity of can be invaluable for trade unions disclosing farms, which in smallholder that are striving to build strong unions, farming situations may be someone’s organise union registrations, increase home as well as place of work. membership and fight against precarious work. Going beyond Tier 1

27 brands and retailers (18% of the 150) are publishing a list of their processing facilities — where our garments and fabrics are woven, laundered, dyed, printed, embroidered, embellished or otherwise treated with special finishings FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 46 4. KNOW, SHOW & FIX APPROACH

How are brands assessing the Know Show Fix implementation of their policies? Do they share the results of How do brands go about assessing We looked at whether brands are Finally, we looked at what brands are these assessments? suppliers to make sure they’re disclosing the results of their supplier publishing about how they fix problems meeting their policies? We looked assessments, either as a summary of in factories when discovered through for a description of brands’ supplier issues found in factories or at a more the assessment process. How do brands assessment processes (typically granular level (e.g. disclosing findings remediate issues, and what do they do We awarded points if factory audits). by individual factory). with outstanding orders when problems brands disclosed: are being addressed or are not fixed at all? Do brands have confidential • The decision-making process whistleblowing procedures in place for taking on new suppliers; for both their own employees and for • How frequently assessments are workers? Are brands disclosing the conducted (e.g. every 12 months); results of these efforts to fix problems • How many assessments found in factories (typically, these are are announced in advance called Corrective Action Plans)? verses semi-announced or unannounced factory visits; • How many assessments are double-checked for accuracy; • And whether assessments include worker representatives, unions or labour rights NGOs. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 47

4. KNOW, SHOW & FIX

0-10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% 51-60% 61-70% 71-80% 81-90% 91-100%

Cortefiel 9 Costco – Kirkland 20 Benetton 30 Calvin Klein 38 Puma 50 Banana Republic 54 Signature Ermenegildo Zegna 9 George at ASDA 30 Tommy Hilfiger 38 Adidas 45 Gap 54 Dick's Sporting Goods 20 Lidl UK 9 Tesco – F&F 30 Van Heusen 38 Reebok 45 Old Navy 54 JCPenney 20 Aéropostale 8 COACH 28 H&M 38 Esprit 43 Kate Spade 20 Joe Fresh 8 Hudson's Bay 28 Primark 38 C&A 41 Lands' End 20 Marc Jacobs 8 Sak's Fifth Avenue 28 Bershka 38 Marks & Spencer 41 Under Armour 20 Valentino 8 Burburry 27 Massimo Dutti 38 bonprix 19 Anthropologie 7 Gildan Activewear 27 Pull & Bear 38 Debenhams 19 Urban Outfitters 7 Uniqlo 27 Stadivarius 38 Dressman 19 Hermès 7 Hugo Boss 26 Zara 38 Salvatore Ferragamo 19 Jack & Jones 7 Russell Athletic 26 Target 36 Superdry 19 Vero Moda 7 G-Star 24 Levi Strauss & Co 35 Victoria's Secret 19 Monoprix 7 Champion 24 The North Face 32 American Eagle 18 Carolina Herrera 5 Hanes 24 Timberland 32 Columbia Sportswear Co 18 Diesel 5 Lindex 24 Vans 32 Dillards 18 Forever 21 5 Lululemon 24 Wrangler 32 Bloomingdale's 18 LL Bean 5 Walmart 24 Bottega Veneta 31 Macy's 18 Neiman Marcus 5 LOFT 23 Gucci 31 Chico's 16 Armani 4 Abercrombie & Fitch 22 YSL 31 GUESS? 16 Claire's Accessories 4 Next 22 Tchibo 31 J.Crew 16 John Lewis 4 TJ Maxx 22 Converse 16 Monsoon Accessorize 4 Zalando 22 Jordan 16 New York & Co. 4 ASOS 20 Nike 16 Foot Locker 3 New Look 16 Sports Direct 3 Topshop 16 Versace 3 Burlington 15 Fendi 1 JD Sports 15 Louis Vuitton 1 Mango 15 Matalan 1 OVS 15 Miu Miu 1 Ralph Lauren 15 Prada 1 Decathlon 14 Tory Burch 1 El Corte Inglés 14 ANTA Sports 0 Kohl's 14 Barney's New York 0 Nordstrom 14 Brooks Brothers 0 The Buckle 14 Chanel 0 Triumph 14 Desigual 0 Amazon 12 Dior 0 Asics Corportaion 12 Dolce & Gabbana 0 Calzedonia 12 Heilan Home 0 Kik 12 Jessica Simpson 0 Michael Kors 12 Lacoste 0 Ross Stores 12 Liverpool 0 Takko 12 Longchamp 0 Express 11 Max Mara 0 Falabella 11 Mexx 0 New Balance 11 New Yorker 0 Nine West 0 s. Oliver 0 Sainsburys – Tu Clothing 0 Sandro 0 Youngor 0

* Brands ranked in numerical order by score out of 250, but shown as the nearest full percentage. Where brands have the same percentage score, they are listed in alphabetical order and grouped with others from same parent company FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 48 4. KNOW, SHOW & FIX FINDINGS

SUPPLIER ASSESSMENTS

63% of brands disclose 79% of brands disclose 49% of brands disclose how 54% of brands disclose 38% of brands describe 41% of brands publish their criteria for taking their process for assessing frequently assessments whether supplier assessments as including summarised findings of their on new suppliers conditions in supplier facilities are conducted assessments are announced worker interviews or supplier assessments at tier 1 vs. surprise visits union involvement

ADDRESSING PROBLEMS

15% of brands publish 66% of brands publish a 49% of brands publish a 29% of brands include the 21% of brands disclose 62% of brands disclose the summarised findings of whistleblowing procedure grievance mechanism grievance mechanism in the how supply chain workers process for remediation their supplier assessments for company employees process for supply Supplier Code of Conduct are informed about this when violations are found beyond tier 1 chain workers grievance mechanism in a supplier facility FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 49 4. KNOW, SHOW & FIX IMPLICATIONS

Know: Most brands describe Many industry experts have come to agree Since compliance data for specific Fix: Half of brands publish how they assess suppliers’ that factory inspections are an important factories has been shared publicly, BFC whistleblowing hotline for compliance with their policies first step in making factories and workers reports a 46% increase in the number of workers safe, but they are not enough. The debate factories in compliance with critical issues. Nearly 80% of the brands and retailers around the usefulness of factory audits After information was disclosed publicly, Roughly half of the brands and retailers publish a description of their factory centres around a variety of contentious compliance on critical issues improved by (49%) disclose a whistleblowing hotline or audit processes which is typically how issues such us double books, falsified 2 to 17% across a range of different areas. grievance mechanism for workers in the they check to see if their suppliers are records, coached worker interviews, This shows quite clearly that the disclosure supply chain but only 29% include this complying with the local law, international corrupt, inadequate or profit-driven of audit results can been an important grievance mechanism in their supplier labour and environmental standards and/ auditors, meaningless tick-box exercises driver of positive change, actually codes of conduct. A grievance mechanism or their company policies (those reviewed and the list goes on. The discussion about improving conditions in factories. is a formal, complaint process that can be in section one). audits amongst major industry players used by individuals, workers, communities continues, but we don’t have enough Show: Several brands publish and/or civil society organisations that We have noticed that information about space here to dig into the issue further. summaries of supplier are being negatively affected by certain auditing procedures is often disclosed assessment results business activities and operations. in the UK Modern Slavery Act or the Show: Publishing supplier Grievance mechanisms are not much use California Transparency in Supply Chains assessments can drive 41% of the 150 brands and retailers are if workers don’t know they exist. Act statements, both of which require improvements publishing an aggregated summary of companies to provide the public with their factory audit findings. 22% of the The UN Guiding Principles on Business information regarding their efforts to When the results of factory audits are brands and retailers are disclosing audit and Human Rights (UNGPs) states that: eradicate slavery and human trafficking made publicly available, we have seen results for specific named factories, and "To make it possible for grievances to be from their supply chains. Our impression this drive improvements in safety this is only because they’re members of addressed early and remediated directly, is that these two laws have notably standards and reduce non-compliances the Bangladesh Accord on Building & Fire business enterprises should establish or increased the number of brands and with critical labour-related issues — as Safety, the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker participate in effective operational-level retailers disclosing information about has been the case with the Bangladesh Safety or the Better Work/BFC programme grievance mechanisms for individuals their factory audit processes. 49% of Accord on Building & Fire Safety, the (with a web link via the brand’s website to and communities who may be adversely brands disclose how regularly factory Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety these initiatives) and are also publishing impacted.” The UNGPs spell out that audits take place, often these happen at and the Better Factories Cambodia their Tier 1 suppliers lists — making it workers should be able to engage the least annually. Only 38% of the brands Transparency Database (BFC). possible to cross-reference the factories company "directly in assessing the issues and retailers disclose whether their on each publicly available database. and seeking any remediation of harm.” We factory audit processes include worker Better Factories Cambodia’s Transparency However, you would need to really dig to are surprised to see that more brands and interviews or the involvement of trade Database now contains information for make sense of this information and we retailers are not publishing a grievance unions or worker rights NGOs. over 800 assessments covering 450 can’t imagine many people taking the mechanism that is available to workers factories — representing 78.2% of the time and effort to do this. in their supply chain considering the Factory audits are one tool for assessing garment factories in Cambodia that importance the UNGPs places on this. and monitoring supplier’s performance possess licenses to export. on social and environmental issues. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 50 5. SPOTLIGHT ISSUES: WOMEN. WORKERS. WASTE APPROACH

Each year, we focus on different Women Workers Waste “Spotlight Issues”, and this year our team has chosen to focus on three How brands and retailers are tackling How brands and retailers are supporting What brands and retailers are doing to issues in deeper detail. gender-based discrimination and the payment of living wages to their tackle textile and clothing waste and violence in supply chains, supporting employees and workers in the supply recycling and what they’re doing to We have chosen these particular gender equality and promoting female chain and how they’re ensuring that move towards a circular economy. “Spotlight Issues” as they align with out empowerment in its own company and supply chain workers are able to forthcoming work on the UN Sustainable in the supply chain. unionise and collectively bargain. Development Goals (SDGs). FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 51

5. SPOTLIGHT ISSUES

0-10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% 51-60% 61-70% 71-80% 81-90% 91-100%

American Eagle 10 Banana Republic 20 C&A 30 Tchibo 40 Adidas 50 Marks & Spencer 60 bonprix 10 Gap 20 Puma 30 Burberry 37 Reebok 50 Bershka 53 Decathlon 10 Old Navy 20 Bottega Veneta 27 Primark 33 H&M 50 Massimo Dutti 53 Dressman 10 Hermès 20 Gucci 27 Topshop 33 ASOS 47 Pull & Bear 53 Falabella 10 Converse 20 YSL 27 Stradivarius 53 Jack & Jones 10 Jordan 20 G-Star 27 Zara 53 Vero Moda 10 Nike 20 Levi Strauss & Co 27 Mango 10 Calvin Klein 20 Esprit 23 Monsoon Accessorize 10 Tommy Hilfiger 20 Gildan Activewear 23 New Balance 10 Van Heusen 20 New Look 23 Nordstrom 10 Debenhams 17 The North Face 23 Salvatore Ferragamo 10 George at ASDA 17 Timberland 23 Target 10 Hugo Boss 17 Vans 23 Zalando 10 John Lewis 17 Wrangler 23 Asics Corporation 7 Lindex 17 Bloomingdale's 7 Lululemon 17 Macy's 7 Next 17 Columbia Sportswear Co 7 Tesco – F&F 17 Cortefiel 7 Benetton 13 Costco – Kirkland 7 El Corte Inglés 13 Signature GUESS? 13 Fendi 7 LOFT 13 Louis Vuitton 7 OVS 13 J.Crew 7 Sainsburys – Tu Clothing 13 JD Sports 7 Superdry 13 Kik 7 Uniqlo 13 Lands' End 7 Walmart 13 Lidl UK 7 Monoprix 7 Miu Miu 7 Prada 7 TJ Maxx 7 Abercrombie & Fitch 3 ANTA Sports 3 Chanel 3 COACH 3 Diesel 3 Forever 21 3 Kohl's 3 Lacoste 3 Longchamp 3 Ross Stores 3 Sports Direct 3 Takko 3 Under Armour 3 Victoria's Secret 3 Aéropostale 0 Amazon 0 Anthropologie 0 Urban Outfitters 0 Armani 0 Barney's New York 0 Brooks Brothers 0 Burlington 0 Calzedonia 0 Carolina Herrera 0 Champion 0 Hanes 0 Chico's 0 Claire's Accessories 0 Desigual 0 Dick's Sporting Goods 0 Dillards 0 Dior 0 Dolce & Gabbana 0 Ermenegildo Zegna 0 Express 0 Foot Locker 0 Heilan Home 0 Hudson's Bay 0 Sak's Fifth Avenue 0 JCPenney 0 Jessica Simpson 0 Joe Fresh 0 Kate Spade 0 Liverpool 0 LL Bean 0 Marc Jacobs 0 Matalan 0 Max Mara 0 Mexx 0 Michael Kors 0 Neiman Marcus 0 New York & Co. 0 New Yorker 0 Nine West 0 Ralph Lauren 0 Russell Athletic 0 s. Oliver 0 Sandro 0 The Buckle 0 Tory Burch 0 Triumph 0 Valentino 0 Versace 0 Youngor 0

* Brands ranked in numerical order by score out of 250, but shown as the nearest full percentage. Where brands have the same percentage score, they are listed in alphabetical order and grouped with others from same parent company FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 52 5. SPOTLIGHT ISSUES FINDINGS

WOMEN WORKERS

Only 5% of brands 40% of brands describe capacity Only 14% of brands publish 47% of brands disclose Only 25% of brands publish Only 3% of brands publish data on the building projects focused the annual gender pay gap the annual percentage of a strategy, including disclose the number prevalence of gender- on female empowerment within the company women in executive and quantitative goals, on of suppliers that have based labour violations of supply chain workers management positions female empowerment independent, democratically in their supply chains in the company elected unions WASTE

Only 8% of brands disclose the Only 10% of brands describe 27% of brands offer Only 6% of brands Only 18% of brands describe 25% of brands report investments number supply chain workers how their purchasing practices clothing take-back advertise repair services what they do with unwanted in circular resources or that are covered by collective enable payment of a living schemes or in-store in order to help extend production samples, unsold technologies that help reduce bargaining agreements wage to supply chain workers product recycling the life of products and defective stock resource consumption FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 53 5. SPOTLIGHT ISSUES IMPLICATIONS

Women (SDG5) The Women’s Empowerment Principles Workers — Living Wages (SDG8) Workers — Unionisation & — an initiative by the United Nations Collective Bargaining (SDG8) 40% of brands and retailers report on Entity for Gender Equality and the ACT (Action, Collaboration, Transformation) capacity building projects in the supply Empowerment of Women (UN Women) is a ground-breaking agreement Very few — less than 3% — of brands and chain that are focused on gender and the United Nations Global Compact between global brands and retailers and retailers are reporting on the number or equality or female empowerment. One — launched in 2010 and set out seven trade unions to transform the garment percentage of their suppliers that have example that many brands and retailers steps that business and other sectors and textile industry and achieve living independent, democratically elected are supporting is BSR’s HERproject, which can take to advance and empower wages for workers through industry- unions. 12 brands (8%) disclose the "drives impact for women and business women. Companies that have signed up wide collective bargaining linked to number or percentage of supply chain via workplace-based interventions to the WEPs explicitly state their intention brands’ purchasing practices. 14 of the workers that are covered by collective on health, financial inclusion, and to measure and publicly report on their brands and retailers (across 10 parent bargaining agreements. gender equality.” Another example is progress towards gender equality in their companies) disclose membership of CARE International's P.A.C.E. project in workplace, marketplace and community. ACT and link to the ACT website from their Collective bargaining means negotiating Bangladesh, supported by Gap, which In our review, we have found that only a own website or annual report. Four more on the terms and conditions of provided skills-based training to urban quarter of the brands and retailers (37 brands and retailers have otherwise employment between workers and migrant women workers. brands in total) report signing up to the made time-bound commitments their employers and is essential to WEPs or the company’s overall strategy towards setting up wage systems and ensuring improved wages, better working 19 brands (13%) publish detailed supplier and quantitative goals to advance achieving living wages for workers. conditions and sustainable livelihoods. guidance on issues facing female women’s empowerment. workers in the supply chain in their Beyond this very few brands are We would like to highlight that ASOS, H&M, Supplier Codes of Conduct while only Less than half (47%) of brands and disclosing efforts towards enabling the Inditex (who owns Bershka, Massimo Dutti, 8 brands (5%) disclose any data on the retailers disclose the percentage of payment of living wages to workers in Pull&Bear, Stradivarius and Zara) and Tchibo prevalence of gender-based labour women in executive and management the supply chain. Less than 3% of brands have signed global framework agreements violations in supplier facilities — e.g. positions within the company, and only publish a policy of paying their suppliers (GFAs) with IndustriALL Global Union, sexual harassment and other forms of 14% of the brands and retailers publish on time, an issue we have been told covering millions of garment workers. gender-based violence; treatment and the annual gender pay gap within the continually frustrates suppliers. We According to IndustriALL, GFAs "protect firing of pregnant workers; maternity company. Those that are publishing hope that through initiatives like ACT the the interests of workers employed in all leave/pay; bathroom breaks during the gender pay gap tend to be British industry will see faster progress towards operations of the multinational companies periods; women in supervisor/middle companies, which, as of 4 April 2018, are achieving living wages. who sign them. GFAs are negotiated at management roles; gender pay required to do so by law. the global level between trade unions gap; women on Worker Participation and companies. They establish the Committees and in unions, etc. best possible standards on trade union rights, on health and safety, and on the labour relations principles adhered to by the company in its global operations, regardless of the standards existing in a particular country.” FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 54 5. SPOTLIGHT ISSUES IMPLICATIONS

Topshop continues to be the only brand Waste — (SDG12) that requires its suppliers to sign a 'Right to Organise Guarantee’ which Over a quarter of brands and retailers is intended to ensure that workers’ (27% or 40 brands in total) are offering Freedom of Association rights are clothing take-back schemes or in- clearly communicated and understood store clothing recycling in order to help by all workers. consumers recycle unwanted clothes instead of send them to landfill. This is disappointing. We would like to see more transparency from Less than 20% of brands and retailers brands and retailers on their efforts disclose what happens to to support freedom of association pre-consumer surplus and waste materials (e.g. excess and defective It can take 2,700 litres to 95% of the clothes North Americans and put systems into place to produce the cotton needed throw away into landfills each year enable collective bargaining. product runs, textile offcuts, surplus to make a single t-shirt. could be reused or recycled and dead stock materials) and post- production surplus and waste clothing [source: WWF] [source: Value Village] and materials (e.g. production samples, unsold clothing and defective stock). Only nine brands (6%) advertise repair services in order to help extend the life of their products.

However, in more positive news, a quarter of the brands and retailers are disclosing investments in circular, closed-loop resources and technologies with the aim to reduce resource consumption and increase resource efficiency — up from 14% last year. The carbon emissions generated It is estimated that 150 billion items of by the clothing of the average clothing are delivered out of factories household in the UK is equivalent annually worldwide — that’s 20 new items to driving 6,000 miles in a car of clothing for every person on the planet

[source: WRAP] [source: Materials Systems Laboratory, MIT] FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 55 VIEWPOINT: “We plan to use publicly available compliance data HOW TRANSPARENCY to support workers and CAN HELP IMPROVE unions to hold employers WORKING CONDITIONS and brands accountable FOR WOMEN through evidence-based advocacy and bargaining.” JOE SUTCLIFFE ADVISOR – DIGNIFIED WORK, CARE INTERNATIONAL UK

Progress has been made, but many of the CARE has identified two key ways that 2) Transparency could increase visibility, Garment brands and jobs that women do in the lower tiers of transparency can improve working understanding, reporting and action on retailers are slowly gaining the garment supply chain and the human conditions for women working in the the injustices facing women in the supply rights abuses they face remain invisible. garment industry: chain. CARE’s research has demonstrated more visibility on the lower Many women work in unregulated factories that nearly 1 in 3 women working in the tiers of their supply chains or in their own homes and are not legally 1) Transparency of the full supply chain garment industry in Cambodia experienced recognised as workers. As a result, they could increase visibility of women sexual harassment in a 12-month period. and are becoming more are not protected by the labour law, cannot working in the lower tiers, including Visibility of the issue has made it easier transparent about where access social protections and are invisible in unauthorised subcontracting sites for all stakeholders to see that sexual to brands and the consumers who wear the and in their own homes, where working harassment is a problem and to start taking they source their clothes from clothes they make. conditions are poor. This would benefit steps to address it. Brands and consumers and the working conditions women workers by increasing visibility of in the global north need only look at #MeToo The human rights abuses women workers the contribution they make to the supply to see how public reporting on gender- experienced by workers. face are also gendered, including a chain and promoting their legal recognition based violence can support other survivors significant gender pay gap, violence and as workers; and enabling trade unions, civil to report, hold perpetrators and complacent For CARE, brand disclosure of their harassment, segregation in the types of society and informal worker associations institutions accountable and drive wider supplier lists means we can identify jobs that women and men do and poor to hold brands and suppliers accountable change to prevent violence against women. the multiple brands who source from opportunities for promotion, and poor for working conditions in the lower tiers. Improved reporting on gender-based the factories we work in, inform brands job security and treatment of pregnant Full supply chain transparency would also violence in the garment industry, including of the work we are doing and promote workers. These issues are rarely captured benefit brands by increasing visibility of the monitoring and public reporting by brands, further action to improve working in compliance audits and many are under- salient human rights risks faced by workers, would play a significant role in catalysing conditions. In future, we can also use reported, if at all, by women workers, so the supporting more systematic action to action across the industry. prevalence and impact they have on women improve working conditions. this data to report and promote action is not recognised, understood or addressed. to address human rights abuses when they are found. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 56

Sumi is a garment worker who Sumi’s story is typical of the 180 Bangladeshi women who participated lives in the Savar Upazila, in the Garment Worker Diaries. It reveals about 24 kilometres northwest the need for a multi-faceted, cross- sectoral approach to supply-chain of Dhaka City. The factory she transparency, because what is apparent works in operates under the in Sumi’s story is the result of a number auspices of both the Accord on of different organisations that are failing her. These include the government of Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh, which is failing to enforce Bangladesh and the Alliance its own working hours and wage laws for Bangladesh Worker Safety. as well as honouring its commitments to protect workers’ rights to freedom of association and collective bargaining; Sumi was a participant in the Garment and the factory owners who are willing Workers Diaries study, which collected to violate their country’s laws to gain data from 540 garment workers in business; and the brands that continue Bangladesh, Cambodia, and India for to source from these factories. a year from July 2016 to August 2017. During that year Sumi was at work, on average, 59 hours per week. In half the “Transparency is necessary weeks covered by the study Sumi was to determine the extent to at work more than the legal maximum which workers’ basic rights of 60 hours per week. Bangladesh labor are being respected, whether law requires workers to be paid double suppliers are complying with their regular pay for overtime. Taking their own countries’ laws, VIEWPOINT: this into account, in at least half the and whether workers’ wages pay periods covered by the study Sumi are sufficient.” GARMENT WORKER DIARIES earned less than the minimum wage. On average Sumi earned 35 taka per In sum, transparency is necessary SHOW THE NEED FOR A hour, €0.35 per hour, which, taking into to determine the extent to which account the cheaper cost of living in workers’ basic rights are being MULTI-SECTORAL APPROACH Bangladesh, is worth just over €1 per respected, whether suppliers are TO TRANSPARENCY hour in Europe or $1.20 per hour in the complying with their own countries’ U.S. As a result, Sumi was mired in debt laws, and whether workers’ wages are and reported low food security. As she sufficient. Governments, consumers, put it when we talked with her: “If I could brands, factories, unions, and workers buy 5 to 7 kgs of fish, I could eat properly themselves all have a role in this. But throughout the month. But most often, I it is only one part of the equation. GUY STUART can’t do that.” These same stakeholders have to act EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR in response to what they learn through MICROFINANCE OPPORTUNITIES transparency. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 57 VIEWPOINT

The Fashion Transparency “The time has come to Index is a crucial contribution to addressing establish transparent sourcing sweatshop practices because practices and incentive it shines a spotlight on where systems that are conducive to DR. MARK ANNER progress has been made and DIRECTOR, the human development and CENTER FOR GLOBAL WORKERS’ RIGHTS what remains to be done. PENN STATE UNIVERSITY Each year, the Index adds new and empowerment of the workers important transparency measures and monitors more companies. The finding who work so hard every day to that only 39% of brands and retailers disclose their procedures for ensuring make the clothes we wear.” that Freedom of Association policies are put into practice suggests that this most fundamental right to voice at work does not enjoy the protection it requires. In far too many apparel-exporting Changing such practices requires countries, workers are often dismissed changing company incentives. When Only one company indicates in its or threatened when trying to organise examining what incentives, if any, brands supplier lists whether workers have union unions, achieve living wages, or establish provide their sourcing departments representation, and none list which more stable work schedules. Many to ensure compliance with social and suppliers have collective bargaining problems are the result of employer environmental standards, Fashion agreements. This should be a requirement abuses and weak local governance. Revolution found only 12% of companies for all companies. share their policies. Yet, significant problems are the result Research has consistently shown of sourcing practices that start at the top As Fashion Revolution's research that when workers are organised in of global supply chains. This includes a indicates, the time has come to establish democratic unions that are independent worrisome pattern of reducing the price transparent sourcing practices and of government and employers and paid to produce apparel and shortening incentive systems that are conducive empowered to bargain collectively are the time allotted to make and ship to the human development and often the most effective way to address a items. The price squeeze contributes empowerment of the workers who work range of issues and violations that have to low wages and unsafe buildings. so hard every day to make the clothes plagued the industry, including forced And the lead-time squeeze engenders we wear. and excessive overtime, unsafe buildings, forced overtime and increased worker low wages. production quotas. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 58

WHAT SHOULD YOU DO WITH THIS INFORMATION? FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 59

CITIZENS To encourage brands to do more, you can take action in two ways:

Encourage more public disclosure from brands. You can do this by using social media to ask brands #whomademyclothes and by supporting campaigns that call We hope the Fashion Transparency We hope that the Fashion Transparency for brands to publish their supplier Index inspires people to ask Index inspires us to think differently lists and supply chain information; brands #whomademyclothes about the clothes we buy and wear. We demanding greater transparency. hope it inspires more people to scrutinise the brands they buy and to consider At the moment none of us have enough how clothes might have been made, Write or call policymakers and information about where and how our where, by whom, under what conditions clothes are made. We have the right to and at what true cost. We hope this ask them to do two things: know that our money is not supporting research activates you to try to find out — To implement regulation ensuring brands exploitation, human rights abuses and more about the production processes are responsible for the impact they have environmental destruction. There is no and people behind what you wear. way to hold brands and governments on the lives of the people working in their to account if we can’t see what is truly supply chains, at home and abroad; happening behind the scenes. This is why transparency is essential. — Require brands to report transparently about their social and environmental impacts across the entire value chain using a common framework.

Find out how to get involved in the campaign: www.fashionrevolution.org/get-involved FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 60

BRANDS AND We ask brands and retailers to take RETAILERS immediate, concrete steps to:

Disclose your supplier lists in a searchable format and publish more easy-to-understand information about your social and environmental performance, progress and impacts across the

We hope the Fashion Transparency 2016 entire supply chain; Index influences brands and retailers 12.5% to publish more information about of 40 their policies, practices and progress companies on human rights and sustainability. were Improve sustainability/CSR communications — publishing supplier make relevant information easier to find and This year 37% of the 150 brands we lists reviewed are publishing tier 1 supplier lists. more simple to understand; Many brands and retailers have published for the first time during the past 12 months. We hope that the Fashion Transparency Index influences more brands to disclose 2017 Publish direct contact details for the their supplier lists with increasingly sustainability/CSR department on your website; detailed information — answering the 32% of 100 question #whomademyclothes? brands were publishing We hope the Fashion Transparency supplier lists Answer your customers' #whomademyclothes Index also sheds some light on how (tier 1) different brands are communicating requests on social media with specific their sustainability/CSR initiatives, supplier information, not just your policies. highlighting where best practices and areas for improvement are emerging.

We think it might be interesting for 2018 brands and retailers to see how they compare to each other in terms of public 37% disclosure of supply chain information of 150 brands were and social and environmental priorities. publishing supplier lists (tier 1) FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 61

GOVERNMENTS AND We ask that governments POLICYMAKERS and policymakers take action in several key ways:

Better implement and enforce existing laws that are meant to protect workers and the environment everywhere; Fashion Revolution believes that The UK Modern Slavery Act and laws and regulations are key to California’s Transparency in Supply transforming the fashion industry. Chains Act require companies to disclose their efforts to eradicate Legislate and support transparency — There are plenty of international human trafficking and slavery from i.e. mandatory due diligence and standards set by the United Nations and their supply chains. The U.S. has related bodies such as the International recently banned the import of goods standardised disclosure by brands on Labor Organisation, and many countries made by child and forced labour. The social and environmental issues; actually have living wages, workers European Union is currently discussing a rights and environmental protections number of measures that would legally written into their Constitutions. require companies to carry out risk- assessments across their supply chains. Make companies and their executives at However, enforcement of existing home accountable for what happens in the laws is often absent, implementation We hope the Fashion Transparency is weak and there is little opportunity Index helps to demonstrate the need for company’s supply chains, regardless of to address violations though the mandatory due diligence and reporting. whether the company has direct control or courts. This needs to change. We would also like to see governments make companies and their executives where in the world abuses may be happening. Transparency is beginning to become legally responsible for what happens in subject to legislation. For example, France the company’s supply chains, regardless requires companies to report annually of whether the company has direct on environmental, social and corporate control or where in the world abuses may governance issues. In the UK, companies be happening. Your constituents deserve must now disclose their gender pay gap. to know that the clothes they buy and wear have not contributed to exploitation and environmental degradation. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 62

NGOS, UNIONS We encourage NGOs and unions to: AND WORKERS

Join us in encouraging brands to publish supplier lists and more detailed supply chain information;

Join us in asking policymakers for mandatory

We hope that the Fashion Transparency due diligence and standardised reporting; Index is useful for NGOs, trade unions and civil society groups who are working directly with producers and Support our call for citizens to ask supply chain workers on human rights and environmental protection. brands #whomademyclothes.

This research helps NGOs, unions and workers to understand what brands are publishing supplier lists, what information Please send us information about is being disclosed, where brands how you would like to see the fashion are producing and what policies and procedures brands say they have in place industry improve. Let’s work together! to protect workers and the environment. There are many pioneering NGOs working directly on the ground in producing countries, and we hope this information Fashion Revolution commits to supporting can help them keep brands accountable complementary campaign efforts by other for what happens in their supply chains, NGOs, unions and workers, wherever possible. wherever production is based. FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 63

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 64 THANK YOU!

The Fashion Transparency Index Thank you to the brands and As always, huge thanks to the report was written by Sarah their representatives who took members of Fashion Revolution’s Finally, we would like to Ditty, head of policy at Fashion the time to engage with us and Global Coordination Team — thank all of you for reading Revolution. It was designed complete the 2018 research Carry Somers, Orsola de Castro, by Heather Knight, Fashion questionnaire. We know that Sarah Ditty, Heather Knight, this report and supporting Revolution’s head of branding brands receive frequent requests Jocelyn Whipple, Roxanne and communications, the person for information from civil society Houshmand-Howell, Vicky Fashion Revolution. who is responsible for giving our and NGOs, and it’s difficult to Nida, Martine Parry, Tamsin movement its visual identity. respond to them all and still get Blanchard, Ian Cook, Christine Please consider donating financially Design was supported by Erika work done. Your participation Gent and Lucy Shea. Söderholm. Research was led by is both vital and appreciated. to Fashion Revolution so that Sarah Ditty and Carry Somers, the Thanks to all of Fashion co-founder and Global Operations We would like to say a special Revolution’s Country Coordinators, we can continue to create more Director of Fashion Revolution — a thanks to Nazma Akter, Dr Mark who brilliantly and effectively resources, such as the Fashion huge thanks for the diligent efforts Anner, Debbie Coulter, Christina power the movement. of all of you. A very heartfelt thanks Hajagos-Clausen, Joe Sutcliffe Transparency Index, and spark an to our brilliant research assistants, and Guy Stuart for your important Thank you to C&A Foundation without whom this report would written contributions to this report. and the European Commission even wider global conversation not have been possible — Aidan for your generous support. about the impacts of our clothes. Shaw, Ilishio Lovejoy, Fionnuala We extend the utmost gratitude Walravens, Aphra Kennedy- to our pro-bono consultation Fletcher, Eduardo Iracheta and committee, who have been With your help, we can Michelle Lai with further support instrumental in guiding our team from Lowell Chow and Sienna through this project: Dr Mark Anner, create positive change! Somers. Huge thanks to Martine Neil Brown, Ian Cook, Orsola de Castro, Subindu Garkhel, Parry for helping this report reach DONATE: www.fashionrevolution.org/donate the eyes and ears of the media. Jenny Holdcroft, Dr Alessandra Mezzadri, Joe Sutcliffe and Heather Webb. An absolutely enormous thank you to all the others who provided informal feedback on the methodology and report — you know who you are!

This publication has been funded with the Fashion Revolution Foundation: Registered Charity in England & Wales No. 1173421; financial support of the European Union. Registered Company in England & Wales No. 10494997. Its contents are the sole responsibility of Fashion Revolution and do not necessarily Fashion Revolution CIC: Registered Company No. 08988812. reflect the views of the European Union. Registered Address: 19 Dig Street, Ashbourne, Derbyshire, DE6 1GF, UK FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 65 ANNEX 1: DEFINITIONS & ABBREVIATIONS

Auditing is the process of reviewing a Collective bargaining is a process where Grievance mechanism is a complaint Remediation is the action of fixing company's finances, working conditions, employers and unions negotiate to determine process that can be used by workers, something, particularly reversing or stopping and environmental practices. It uncovers fair wages and working conditions. allowing them to voice concerns about environmental damage or human rights risks to workers' safety and opportunities to (Source: ILO) working conditions without fear of abuses. A Corrective Action Plan is an improve working conditions. punishment or retribution. (Source: Verité) agreement with a supplier on what needs to (Source: Walk Free Foundation) Due diligence is a process through which be remedied, when it is to be done, and who companies assesses their impacts on Living wage is a wage a worker earns in a is responsible for which tasks. Capacity building projects often refers to human rights and the environment and then standard working week that is enough to (Source: ETI Norway) activities that seek to strengthen the skills, take actions to reduce any negative impacts. provide for them and their family's basic competencies and abilities of people and (Source: United Nations Global Compact) needs - including food, housing, clothing, Restricted Substance List sets out the communities in developing societies so they education and healthcare. specific chemicals substances that are can overcome the causes of their exclusion Equal pay means that men and women in (Source: Clean Clothes Campaign) not allowed to be used in products or and suffering. (Source: Oxfam) the same employment performing equal manufacturing processes. Typical hazardous work must receive equal remuneration. Materiality Assessment is an exercise substances that are restricted include lead, Closed-loop refers to a societal system This applies not only to salary, but to designed to gather insights on the relative AZO dyes, DMF, PAHs, Phthalates, PFOS, where products and their components are all contractual terms and conditions of importance of specific environmental, the nickel release and so on. designed, manufactured, used and handled employment, such as holiday entitlement, social and governance (ESG) issues. The (Source: CIRS-REACH) so as to circulate within society for as bonuses, pay and reward schemes, pension insight is most commonly used to inform long as possible, with maximum usability, payments and other benefits. sustainability reporting and strategic Supply chain / value chain refers to minimum adverse environmental impacts, (Source: Equality and Human Rights Commission) planning. (Source: Greenbiz) all the steps it takes to produce and minimum waste generation, and with the sell a product, from farm to closet. most efficient use of water, energy and other Freedom of Association is the right of NGO (Non-governmental organisation) is a (Source: OECD) resources throughout their lifecycles. individuals and workers to form and join group that operates independently of any (Source: Green Strategy) groups of their own choosing in order to take government, typically one whose purpose is Wet processing facilities are involved collective action to pursue the interest of the to address a social or political issue. in the production of clothing whose CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) members of the group. (Source: ILO) (Source: Oxford Dictionary) activities typically involve rinsing, is a corporation’s initiatives to assess bleaching, dyeing, printing, treating and take responsibility for its effects on Gender pay gap is defined as the difference Purchasing practices refers to a company’s or coating fabric and laundering. environmental and social wellbeing. The in median pay between men and women. process of buying goods and services. (Source: Garment Merchandising blog) term generally applies to efforts that go (Source: Office for National Statistics) This might include activities such as planning beyond what may be required by law. and forecasting, design and development, (Source: Investopedia) cost negotiation, sourcing and placing orders, production management and payment and terms. (Source: Better Buying) FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 66 ANNEX 2: REFERENCES

Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh California Transparency in Supply Chains Act. Havas Media (2016) Project Superbrand: 10 OHCHR (2011) Guiding Principles on Business and (2015) Introduction to the Accord on Fire and Retrieved: www.dol.gov/ilab/child-forced-labor/ truths reshaping the corporate world. Retrieved: Human Rights: Implementing the United Nations Building Safety in Bangladesh. Retrieved: California-Transparency-in-Supply-Chains-Act.html www.havasmedia.nl/2016/01/project-superbrand- 'Protect, Respect and Remedy’ Framework. www.bangladeshaccord.org/wp-content/uploads/ 10-truths-reshaping-corporate-world Retrieved: www.ohchr.org/Documents/ Brochure-about-the-Accord.pdf CARE Bangladesh (2018) OIKKO. Retrieved: Publications/GuidingPrinciplesBusinessHR_EN.pdf www.carebangladesh.org/all_projects.php Human Rights Watch (2017) Follow the Thread. Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh Retrieved: www.hrw.org/report/2017/04/20/ United Kingdom Government (2015) Modern (2018) Inspection Reports and Corrective Clean Clothes Campaign (2017) Transparency follow-thread/need-supply-chain-transparency- Slavery Act 2015. Retrieved: www.legislation.gov. Actions Plans. Retrieved: www.accord. Pledge. Retrieved: cleanclothes.org/transparency garment-and-footwear-industry uk/ukpga/2015/30/contents/enacted fairfactories.org/ffcweb/Web/ManageSuppliers/ InspectionReportsEnglish.aspx Corporate Human Rights Benchmark (2017) KnowTheChain (2018) Apparel and United Nations (2015) Sustainable Apparel. Retrieved: Footwear Benchmark. Retrieved: Development Goals. Retrieved: Action, Collaboration, Transformation (2018) www.corporatebenchmark.org/apparel knowthechain.org/benchmarks/3 sustainabledevelopment.un.org/sdgs What is ACT? Fact Sheet. Retrieved: actonlivingwages.com/fact-sheet Ethical Trading Initiative (2017) Towards greater Malo, Sebastien (February 2016) With new law, Value Village (2018) Rethink Reuse. Retrieved: transparency: the business case. Retrieved: U.S. takes on slavery by banning forced labor www.valuevillage.com/rethinkreuse Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety (2018) www.ethicaltrade.org/resources/towards-greater- imports. Reuters. Retrieved: Factory List and Inspection Reports. Retrieved: transparency-business-case www.reuters.com/article/us-usa-lawmaking- Women Empowerment Principles. Retrieved: www.bangladeshworkersafety.org/factory/factory- forcedlabor-idUSKCN0VX32A www.weprinciples.org/Site/PrincipleOverview list-inspection-reports Ethical Trading Initiative (2018) ETI Base Code. Retrieved: www.ethicaltrade.org/eti-base-code Material Systems Laboratory / MIT (October 2015) World Bank (2014) The Next Frontier for Open Arcadia Group (2015) Right to Organise Sustainable Apparel Materials. Authors: Randolph Data: An Open Private Sector. Retrieved: Guarantee– English. Retrieved: s3-eu-west-1. Kirchain, Elsa Olivetti, T Reed Miller and Suzanne Fashion Revolution (2018) 2017 Impact. Retrieved: blogs.worldbank.org/voices/next-frontier-open- amazonaws.com/craft-web-s3-2617/Arcadia- Greene. Retrieved: msl.mit.edu/publications/ www.fashionrevolution.org/2017-impact data-open-private-sector Right-to-Organise-Guarantee-2015-ENGLISH.pdf SustainableApparelMaterials.pdf

Fashion Revolution (2017) Fashion Transparency WRAP (2012) Valuing Our Clothes. Retrieved: Better Factories Cambodia (2018) Microfinance Opportunities (2018) Garment Worker Index 2017. Retrieved: www.fashionrevolution.org/ www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/VoC%20 Transparency Portal. Retrieved: Diaries. Retrieved: workerdiaries.org about/why-transparency-matters/ FINAL%20online%202012%2007%2011.pdf portal.betterwork.org/transparency O’Reilly, Emily (2017) The future of transparency Gillin, Paul (2009) The New Influencers: A Market’s WWF (2013) The impact of a cotton t-shirt. Bogusky, Alex (2013) The Naked Brand. Retrieved: and access to information. Retrieved: Guide to the New Social Media. Retrieved: Retrieved: www.worldwildlife.org/stories/ www.brandingmag.com/2013/12/19/unveiling- medium.com/@EUombudsman/the-future- www.amazon.co.uk/New-Influencers-Marketers- the-impact-of-a-cotton-t-shirt naked-brand of-transparency-and-access-to-information- Social-Career/dp/1884956947 766a48505fd0 BSR (2018) HERProject. Retrieved: herproject.org OECD (2017) OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment and Footwear Sector. Retrieved: mneguidelines.oecd. org/oecd-due-diligence-guidance-garment- footwear.pdf FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 67 CHECK OUT AN IMPORTANT THESE FINAL NOTE ORGANISATIONS FOR FURTHER RESEARCH:

Anti-Slavery International Please also visit www.workerdiaries.org We are not endorsing the brands Fashion Revolution encourages you to www.antislavery.org to discover the Garment Worker Diaries, included in the Fashion Transparency use your voice, your money and your a yearlong research study of the lives Index, regardless of how they score. power to transform the fashion industry. Clean Clothes Campaign and wages of 540 garment workers By conducting this research, we cleanclothes.org in Bangladesh, Cambodia and India, are not promoting the fast fashion Read our booklet led by Microfinance Opportunities in business model, which underpins ‘How To Be a Fashion Revolutionary’ Greenpeace collaboration with Fashion Revolution and many of the brands included in the to find out what more you can do. www.greenpeace.org supported by C&A Foundation. Fashion Transparency Index. Be Curious. Ellen MacArthur Foundation Find Out. www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org Do Something.

Ethical Trading Initiative Finally, we ask you to please ethicaltrade.org share this report with anyone you think might be interested. Human Rights Watch www.hrw.org

International Labor Rights Forum www.laborrights.org

Solidarity Centre solidaritycentre.org

The Centre for Research on Multinational Corporation (SOMO) www.somo.nl

Wikirate wikirate.org FASHION REVOLUTION | FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2018 68 ABOUT FASHION "Transparency is visibility. We want to see the fashion REVOLUTION industry, respect its producers and understand its processes. We want a clear, uninterrupted vision from origin to disposal to foster dignity,

Fashion Revolution is a global movement empowerment and justice which aims to radically change the way for the people who make our fashion is made, sourced and consumed. clothes and to protect the We believe in an industry that values people, environment we all share." the environment, creativity and profit in equal measure. We have teams in over 100 countries that want to see fashion become a force ORSOLA DE CASTRO for good. Read and sign our manifesto. CO FOUNDER, FASHION REVOLUTION

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