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Overview of Fashion
Chapter01 vrv Overview of Fashion 1.1 UNDERSTANDING FASHION: INTRODUCTION AND DEFINITION Fashion has become an integral part of contemporary society. It is an omnipresent aspect of our lives and is one of the focal topics of the print and electronic media, television and internet, advertisements and window displays in shops and malls, movies, music and modes of entertainment etc. Fashion is a statement that signifies societal preferences created by individual and collective identities. The key to its core strength lies in its aspiration value, which means that people aspire to be fashionable. Fashion travels across geographical boundaries, history influencing and in turn, influenced by society. Though the term 'fashion' is often used synonymously with garment, it actually has a wider connotation. A garment is not fashion merely because it is worn. To become fashion, a garment has to reflect the socio-cultural ethos of the time. As a generic term, fashion includes all products and activities related to a 'lifestyle' - clothes, accessories, products, cuisine, furniture, architecture, mode of transportation, vacations, leisure activities etc. Fig 1.1 Evening gowns by Sanjeev Sahai Creative Director of Amethysta Viola Fashion has emerged as a globally relevant area of academic study which includes various aspects of fashion design, fashion technology and fashion management. Due to the wide range of human and social aspects within its ambit, it is also a topic of scholarly study by sociologists, psychologists and anthropologists. 1 01 v r v Its multi-faceted nature leads to numerous interpretations. For an average person, fashion could generally refer to a contemporary and trendy style of dressing being currently 'in' and which is likely to become 'out' by the next season or year. -
The Use of Trend Forecasting in the Product Development Process
THE USE OF TREND FORECASTING IN THE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT PROCESS C TWINE PhD 2015 THE USE OF TREND FORECASTING IN THE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT PROCESS CHRISTINE TWINE A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of the Manchester Metropolitan University for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Department of Apparel / Hollings Faculty the Manchester Metropolitan University 2015 Acknowledgements The completion of this research project owes a great deal of support and encouragement of my supervisory team, Dr. David Tyler, Dr. Tracy Cassidy as my adviser and the expert guidance of my Director of Studies Dr. Ji-Young Ruckman and Dr. Praburaj Venkatraman. Their experience and commitment provided inspiration and guidance throughout those times when direction was much needed. I am also indebted to all those who participated in the interviewing process which aided the data collection process and made this research possible. These included personnel from the trend forecasting agencies Promostyl, Mudpie, Trend Bible and the senior trend researchers from Stylesight, and Trendstop. The buyers and designers from the retailers Tesco, Shop Direct, Matalan, River Island, Mexx, Puma, Bench, Primark, H&M, ASOS and Boohoo. Thank you to my lovely family, David and Florence for their support and encouragement when I needed it most. i Declaration No portion of the work referred to in this thesis has been submitted in support of an application for another degree or qualification of this or any other university or institution of learning. Copyright© 2014 All rights reserved No part of this thesis may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission of the author. -
Swagger Like Us: Black Millennials' Perceptions of 1990S Urban Brands
Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Graduate Theses and Dissertations Dissertations 2018 Swagger like us: Black millennials’ perceptions of 1990s urban brands Courtney Danielle Johnson Iowa State University Follow this and additional works at: https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/etd Part of the American Material Culture Commons, and the Fashion Design Commons Recommended Citation Johnson, Courtney Danielle, "Swagger like us: Black millennials’ perceptions of 1990s urban brands" (2018). Graduate Theses and Dissertations. 16600. https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/etd/16600 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Dissertations at Iowa State University Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in Graduate Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Iowa State University Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Swagger like us: Black millennials’ perceptions of 1990s urban brands by Courtney Danielle Johnson A thesis submitted to the graduate faculty in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF SCIENCE Major: Apparel, Merchandising and Design Program of study committee: Eulanda A. Sanders, Co-major Professor Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Co-major Professor Tera Jordan The student author, whose presentation of the scholarship herein was approved by the program of study committee, is solely responsible for the content of this thesis. The Graduate College will ensure this thesis is globally accessible and will not permit alterations after a degree is conferred. Iowa State University Ames, Iowa 2018 Copyright © Courtney Danielle Johnson, 2018. All rights reserved. ii DEDICATION This thesis is dedicated to Black folks. -
Unlocking the Reuse Revolution for Fashion: a Canadian Case Study
Unlocking the Reuse Revolution for Fashion: A Canadian Case Study by Laura Robbins Submitted to OCAD University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Design in Strategic Foresight & Innovation Toronto, Ontario, Canada, 2019 Copyright Notice This document is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial- ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0). https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc- sa/4.0/ You are free to: • Share — copy and redistribute the material in any medium or format • Adapt — remix, transform, and build upon the material Under the following conditions: • Attribution — You must give appropriate credit, provide a link to the license, and indicate if changes were made. You may do so in any reasonable manner, but not in any way that suggests the licensor endorses you or your use. • NonCommercial — You may not use the material for commercial purposes. • ShareAlike — If you remix, transform, or build upon the material, you must distribute your contributions under the same license as the original. ii ABSTRACT This research aims to explore the potential of clothing reuse as a stepping stone towards a more circular economy for fashion. A systems approach to problem finding, framing, and solving is applied to explore how we might increase fashion reuse behaviours amongst consumers and industry alike. This research includes an analysis of the key barriers that prevent higher rates of participation in fashion reuse despite the potential economic, environmental, and social benefits of doing so (Part 2), and identifies areas of opportunity to focus innovation (Part 3). Research methodology included more than 30 one-on-one consumer interviews, 20 interviews with industry professionals along the fashion value chain, and an extensive environmental scan with a particular focus on the Canadian market. -
Final Thesis
AN EXAMINATION OF INDIVIDUAL DIFFERENCES IN ITALIAN AND AMERICAN FASHION CULTURES: PAST, PRESENT, AND PROJECTIONS FOR THE FUTURE BY: MARY LOUISE HOTZE TC 660H PLAN II HONORS PROGRAM THE UNIVERSITY OF TEXAS AT AUSTIN MAY 10, 2018 ______________________________ JESSICA CIARLA DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILES AND APPAREL SUPERVISING PROFESSOR ______________________________ ANTONELLA DEL FATTORE-OLSON DEPARTMENT OF FRENCH AND ITALIAN SECOND READER TABLE OF CONTENTS Abstract…………………………………………….…………………………………………….…………………………………… 3 Acknowledgements………………………………………….…………………………………………….…………..……….. 4 Introduction………………………………………….…………………………………………….…………………….…….…. 5 Part 1: History of Italian Fashion……...……...……..……...……...……...……...……...……...……...... 9 – 47 AnCiEnt Rome and thE HoLy Roman EmpirE…………………………………………………….……….…... 9 ThE MiddLE AgEs………………………………………….……………………………………………………….…….. 17 ThE REnaissanCE……………………………………….……………………………………………………………...… 24 NeoCLassism to RomantiCism……………………………………….…………………………………….……….. 32 FasCist to REpubLiCan Italy……………………………………….…………………………………….……………. 37 Part 2: History of American Fashion…………………………………………….……………………………… 48 – 76 ThE ColoniaL PEriod……………………………………….……………………………………………………………. 48 ThE IndustriaL PEriod……………………………………….……………………………………………………….…. 52 ThE CiviL War and Post-War PEriod……………………………………….……………………………………. 58 ThE EarLy 20th Century……………………………………….………………………………………………….……. 63 ThE Mid 20th Century……………………………………….…………………………………………………………. 67 ThE LatE 20th Century……………………………………….………………………………………………………… 72 Part 3: Discussion of Individual -
Towards an Orchestration of Forecasting Methods to Devise Strategies for Design” – Also Comes from a Place of Personal Motivation
TOWARDS AN ORCHESTRATION OF FORECASTING METHODS TO DEVISE STRATEGIES FOR DESIGN by Priyanka Sharma APPROVED BY SUPERVISORY COMMITTEE: ___________________________________________ Dr. Maximilian Schich, Chair ___________________________________________ Dr. Kimberly Knight ___________________________________________ Dr. Matt Brown ___________________________________________ Dr. Frank Dufour Copyright 2018 Priyanka Sharma All Rights Reserved TOWARDS AN ORCHESTRATION OF FORECASTING METHODS TO DEVISE STRATEGIES FOR DESIGN by PRIYANKA SHARMA, B.Des, MA DISSERTATION Presented to the Faculty of The University of Texas at Dallas in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY IN ARTS AND TECHNOLOGY THE UNIVERSITY OF TEXAS AT DALLAS August 2018 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I am greatly appreciative of the many individuals who provided support and encouragement for my work through the process of writing this dissertation. Above all, I would like to thank my doctoral committee for their continuous guidance, critical feedback, and timely advice in the past few years. I am especially indebted to my advisor Dr. Maximilian Schich, whose invaluable insight, unique perspective, persistence for perseverance provided me with the inspiration and motivation to work towards this dissertation. I thank Dr. Dufour for being the relentless source of optimism and his faith in my efforts. His support and guidance made me hopeful of being capable of ingenuity and left me intellectually stimulated. I express my sincere gratitude toward Dr. Kim Knight for her trust in me and enabling me to continue this journey. I am indebted to Dr. Matthew Brown, who during the entire course of writing this dissertation helped me immensely with the structural aspects of this dissertation and guided me towards practical and critical milestones in my research. -
Using Artificial Intelligence to Analyze Fashion Trends
Using Artificial Intelligence to Analyze Fashion Trends Mengyun (David) Shi Van Dyk Lewis Cornell University, Hearst Magazines [email protected] ABstract Analyzing fashion trends is essential in the fashion industry. Current fashion forecasting firms, such as WGSN, utilize the visual information from around the world to analyze and predict fashion trends. However, analyzing fashion trends is time-consuming and extremely labor intensive, requiring individual employees' manual editing and classification. To improve the efficiency of data analysis of such image-based information and lower the cost of analyzing fashion images, this study proposes a data-driven quantitative abstracting approach using an artificial intelligence (A.I.) algorithm. Specifically, an A.I. model was trained on fashion images from a large-scale dataset under different scenarios, for example in online stores and street snapshots. This model was used to detect garments and classify clothing attributes such as textures, garment style, and details for runway photos and videos. It was found that the A.I. model can generate rich attribute descriptions of detected regions and accurately bind the garments in the images. Adoption of A.I. algorithm demonstrated promising results and the potential to classify garment types and details automatically, which can make the process of trend forecasting more cost-effective and faster. Keywords: artificial intelligence, fashion, trend analysis Note: this paper provides an introduction of how A.I. can Be adopted for fashion trend analysis. If you are working or studying in the fashion industry. this is the right paper for you to get started. However, if you are an advanced computer/research scientist, we suggest you read the fashionpedia project that we collaBorate with Google AI directly: https://fashionpedia.github.io/home/index.html 1. -
Urban Representation in Fashion Magazines
Chair of Urban Studies and Social Research Faculty of Architecture and Urbanism Bauhaus-University Weimar Fashion in the City and The City in Fashion: Urban Representation in Fashion Magazines Doctoral dissertation presented in fulfillment of the requirement for the degree of Doctor philosophiae (Dr. phil.) Maria Skivko 10.03.1986 Supervising committee: First Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Frank Eckardt, Bauhaus-University, Weimar Second Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Stephan Sonnenburg, Karlshochschule International University, Karlsruhe Thesis Defence: 22.01.2018 Contents Acknowledgements ................................................................................................................................. 5 Thesis Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 6 Part I. Conceptual Approach for Studying Fashion and City: Theoretical Framework ........................ 16 Chapter 1. Fashion in the city ................................................................................................................ 16 Introduction ....................................................................................................................................... 16 1.1. Fashion concepts in the perspective ........................................................................................... 18 1.1.1. Imitation and differentiation ................................................................................................ 18 1.1.2. Identity -
The Fashion Industry As a Slippery Discursive Site: Tracing the Lines of Flight Between Problem and Intervention
THE FASHION INDUSTRY AS A SLIPPERY DISCURSIVE SITE: TRACING THE LINES OF FLIGHT BETWEEN PROBLEM AND INTERVENTION Nadia K. Dawisha A dissertation submitted to the faculty of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Department of Communication in the College of Arts and Sciences. Chapel Hill 2016 Approved by: Patricia Parker Sarah Dempsey Steve May Michael Palm Neringa Klumbyte © 2016 Nadia K. Dawisha ALL RIGHTS RESERVED ii ABSTRACT Nadia K. Dawisha: The Fashion Industry as a Slippery Discursive Site: Tracing the Lines of Flight Between Problem and Intervention (Under the direction of Dr. Patricia Parker) At the intersection of the glamorous façade of designer runway shows, such as those in Paris, Milan and New York, and the cheap prices at the local Walmart and Target, is the complicated, somewhat insidious “business” of the fashion industry. It is complicated because it both exploits and empowers, sometimes through the very same practices; it is insidious because its most exploitative practices are often hidden, reproduced, and sustained through a consumer culture in which we are all in some ways complicit. Since fashion’s inception, people and institutions have employed a myriad of discursive strategies to ignore and even justify their complicity in exploitative labor, environmental degradation, and neo-colonial practices. This dissertation identifies and analyzes five predicaments of fashion while locating the multiple interventions that engage various discursive spaces in the fashion industry. Ultimately, the analysis of discursive strategies by creatives, workers, organizers, and bloggers reveals the existence of agile interventions that are as nuanced as the problem, and that can engage with disciplinary power in all these complicated places. -
Innovating a 90'S Streetwear Brand for Today's Fashion Industry
FOR US BY US: INNOVATING A 90'S STREETWEAR BRAND FOR TODAY'S FASHION INDUSTRY A Thesis submitted to the FAculty of the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences of Georgetown University in partiAl fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MAsters of Arts in CommunicAtion, Culture And Technology By Dominique HAywood, B.S WAshington, DC May 26, 2020 Copyright 2020 by Dominique HAywood All Rights Reserved ii FOR US BY US: INNOVATING A 90'S STREETWEAR BRAND FOR TODAY'S FASHION INDUSTRY Dominique HAywood, BS Thesis Advisor: J.R. Osborn, Ph.D ABSTRACT This thesis is a cAse study of how a vintAge fashion brand cAn be innovated through humAn centered design for the current fashion industry. IDEO, global design and innovation company, has clAssified humAn centered design as A method for identifying viAble, feAsible and desirable solutions with the integration of multidisciplinary insights (IDEO). For this thesis, the brand of focus is FUBU, for us by us, a 90’s era streetweAr brand that is a product of New York City hip-hop culture. A succinct proposAl for FUBU’s resurgence in the fashion industry will be designed by first identifying the viAbility of the fashion industry and feAsibility of the brand’s revival. ViAbility will be determined by detAiling the current stAte of the fashion and streetweAr industries. This is to estAblish the opportunities and threAts of new and returning entrants into the industry. FeAsibility will be declAred by reseArching the history and current stAte of the brand, its cultural relevancy, and its strengths and weAknesses. -
It's Time for a Fashion Revolution White Paper
THE STATE OF THE INDUSTRY A IT’S TIME FOR A FASHION REVOLUTION WHITE PAPER DECEMBER 2015 FASHION REVOLUTION | IT’S TIME FOR A FASHION REVOLUTION 1 CREDITS CONTENTS Written by Sarah Ditty with special thanks 02 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY for words from Lucy Siegle and research support from Emilie Schultz and 04 WHY DO WE NEED A fashion REvolution? Carry Somers. Acknowledgements: Thanks to Maher Anjum, Sass Brown, 06 MoDEL: THE BUSINESS OF fashion Becky Earley and Mo Tomaney for their invaluable input and feedback. 08 MatERIAL: PEOPLE AND PLANET Designed by Heather Knight 16 MinDSET: SHIFTING THE waY WE THINK ABOUT fashion www.fashionrevolution.org 18 WE ARE THE Fashion REvolution The content of this publication can in no way 20 WHO MADE MY ClothES? THE FOCUS THROUGH 2020 be taken to reflect the views of the European Union, Concord Alliance, C&A Foundation or 21 OUR THEORY OF CHANGE any of the funders of Fashion Revolution. 22 What Fashion REvolution DOES © Fashion Revolution CIC 2015. 24 What MAKES Fashion REvolution UNIQUE All rights reserved. This document is not to be copied or adapted without permission 25 AREas FOR FURTHER RESEARCH & THOUGHT from Fashion Revolution CIC. 26 FINAL woRDS... 27 APPENDIX 28 REFERENCES FASHION REVOLUTION | IT’S TIME FOR A FASHION REVOLUTION 2 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 3 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY In the two years since this tragedy, tens of thousands of people have taken to social media, to the streets, to their It has been more schools and to halls of government to uncover the stories behind the things we wear. -
Comfort in Clothing: Fashion Actors and Victims. in Miller, M
CROSS, K. 2019. Comfort in clothing: fashion actors and victims. In Miller, M. (ed.). Fashion: ID; proceedings of 21st International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institute (IFFTI) 2019 conference: fashion ID (IFFTI 2019), 8-12 April 2019, Manchester, UK. Manchester: Manchester Metropolitan University [online], pages 284-297. Available from: http://fashioninstitute.mmu.ac.uk/ifftipapers/paper-168/ Comfort in clothing: fashion actors and victims. CROSS, K. 2019 This document was downloaded from https://openair.rgu.ac.uk Comfort in Clothing: Fashion Actors and Victims Karen Cross Robert Gordon University [email protected] Abstract Fashion psychology is an emerging discipline, recognising the potential of clothing to enhance well-being in an era when mental health issues are increasing in the Western world. Well-being is important to the individual and on a wider societal level, with the Office for National Statistics monitoring the well-being of UK inhabitants and the World Health Organisation stating that depression will be the most common health issue in the world by 2030. As comfort is a key aspect of well-being, this study explores meanings associated with comfort and discomfort in everyday, non-elite clothing. Comfort in clothing can by physical, physiological and psychological, and the psychological comfort gained from clothing is identified in literature as under-researched. Psychological theory was explored, revealing individuals perform multiple identities, dependent on the reaction of others and filtered by previous, lived experience. Fashion was found to be a recognized method of communicating identity in the social space and research suggests the physical response to psychological constructs or meanings associated with certain garments can be used to change or enhance mood.