A NEWSLETTER TO INFORM AND ACKNOWLEDGE CERS’ FRIENDS AND SUPPORTERS EXPLORERS China Exploration and Research Society VOLUME 11 NO. 3 AUTUMN 2009

3 Himalayan paradise and paradigm kingdom CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: 8 With the Royal Grand Mother of at an 8th Century Buddhist enclave Watching the almost total solar 11 Caves not just for tourists eclipse at CERS Center; How 14 Unlikely tent-mate provides wake-up call on climate change Man with Wisconsin professor 18 Resting place of the slaughter knife - Gom-Gonsar Monastery of Tibet and students; pika of the plateau; 22 A Buddha in disguise pilgrims at a Bhutanese nunnery 24 Forgotten corner of Tibet 26 Interns savour exotic excursions 28 Die-hard leeches of Hainan Island 30 Caught on the thin edge of a total solar eclipse 34 CERS in the Field 35 News/CERS in the Media A NEWSLETTER TO INFORM AND ACKNOWLEDGE CERS' FRIENDS AND SUPPORTERS Directors: CHINA WONG HOW MAN, Founder/President MAGNUS BARTLETT, Director, HIMALAYAN Odyssey Publications EXPLORERS WILLIAM BLEISCH, PhD, China Exploration and Research Society PARADISE AND Science Director, CERS VOLUME 11 NO.3 AUTUMN 2009 CYNTHIA D’ANJOU BROWN, PARADIGM KINGDOM Philanthropy Adviser, HSBC Private Bank President’s Message JAMES CHEN, CERS Chairman, ERS has just embarked on organizing the huge Managing Director, Legacy Advisors Ltd. archive of our work. Much of this intellectual and ERIC CHEN, Chairman, Sampo Corporation material property will constitute a legacy we can pass BARRY LAM, Chairman, Quanta Computer, Taiwan on to future generations. While we are still pushing DANIEL NG, Former Chairman, ahead with some important projects, we are also McDonald’s Restaurants (HK) Ltd. Ctaking time to look back to sort out our records. Such an archive is a MICHAEL J MOSER, PhD, Partner, repository of knowledge, as well as a case study to inspire others. Our O’Melveny & Myers future endowment would ensure that this wealth is preserved. MARJORIE YANG, Chairman, The Esquel Group

In this issue, we continue to show you CERS’ diversity. Articles relate CERS Field Staff: how we live up to our mission in exploration, research, conservation and WILLIAM BLEISCH, PhD, Chief Biologist education. In recent years, we have taken our exploration beyond China’s frontiers into inland Southeast PAUL BUZZARD, PhD, Field Biologist Asia as well as south of the Himalayas. In time, we will also explore Inner Asia or even north Asia. CAO ZHONGYU, Logistics Support CHEN LI MEI, Zhongdian Centre Vice Director Occasionally, I have been criticized for being not focused. But why focus when we continue to make LI NA, Kunming Admin. Officer discoveries, pioneer new projects with innovation, and deliver results within a short time? People have LIU HONG, Speleologist also accused me of having too many interests. My take on it is that I get bored easily and constantly look QIJU QILIN, Zhongdian Centre Director for new subjects. MARTIN RUZEK, Earth System Scientist WANG JIAN, Project Manager Perhaps that is why I seek new grounds for exploration and as project sites. Each new site becomes my ost people come to Bhutan for the peace YAO XUE MEI, Education Officer playground, where I delve in wholeheartedly with passion. Perhaps that is why when I describe our work and tranquility, not least the Gross ZHANG FAN, Kunming Conservation Center Director and projects, some friends feel my enthusiasm is contagious. I believe that may be why so many of you ZHOU CHEN SU, Speleologist National Happiness or “GNH” for which continue to support CERS. the Himalayan kingdom is best known. CERS Office Staff: Just two hours after my arrival in the CERS is becoming older, as people’s life expectancy is growing longer. With the introduction of better BERRY SIN, Logistics Director capital of Thimphu, I find myself having dinner in the privacy of preventive measures against illness, modern drugs and cures for ailments, and life-prolonging machines, M TRACY MAN, Accountant a home, sitting next to Chief Justice Lyonpo Sonam Tobgay, and we can out-run death even if our many faculties should fail us. Some day in the near future, we may indeed listening in on a discussion about the country’s legal road ahead. I call 60 the ripe age for a mid-life crisis. That is what I am stepping into as I write this. Editorial Consultant: am in company of a friend of the chief justice: Lodi Gyari, Special CATHY HILBORN FENG For my 60th birthday, I took a break in a place without a phone, television and news, not unlike an Envoy of the Dalai . expedition into the deep unknown spaces on earth. There I reflected on my past, while trying to chart the Design and Printer: future. Like the watersheds of great river sources I once stood upon, I am now at another threshold of my To illustrate his point, Lyonpo occasionally makes references to TOPPAN VITE LIMITED life. As my physical energy decreases, I hope my mental stamina increases, as we continue to bring you legal entities from classical times in other parts of the world, be (852) 2973 8600 news of our latest work. it the Qin Dynasty or that of early Constantinople. Lyonpo is a man of knowledge. I found little opportunity to offer an opinion HOW TO REACH CERS: until his conversation turned to Buddhism. The Chief Justice Unit 7 & 8, 27/F, Tower B, SouthMark, was interested in finding more common law and practices within Buddhist sutra that can be applied in contemporary times, and 11 Yip Hing Street, Wong Chuk Hang, Hong Kong Wong How Man l phone (852) 2555 7776 fax (852) 2555 2661 incorporated into today’s laws. Bhutan is the only country which Thimphu, Bhutan – June 8, 2009 e-mail: [email protected] Wong How Man embraces Buddhism as its state religion. Website: www.cers.org.hk Founder/President, CERS TOP: The Zong at Paro “Who was that early pilgrim monk who went from China to BOTTOM: A Takin, Bhutan’s national animal With respect to the entire contents of this newsletter, including its photographs: CERS TAI TAM RESEARCH CENTER to obtain sutras?” Lyonpo asked, turning to me. “Xuan Zang, of All Rights Reserved. Copyright 2009. @ China Exploration and Research Society. (852) 2809 4181 s Please contact CERS for reprint permission. the Tang Dynasty,” I replied. But I could not help but inject

PAGE 2 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 3 that most Chinese children learned the story of the monk not from of the human realm.” Lyonpo said that he was more concerned more equitable planning with respect to their natural and cultural classical history, but from the fictional story, “Journey to the about religion entering into politics, and in the process creating heritage while forging ahead with modernity. West” – or from comic books about the Monkey King. As head unwanted rivalry or conflict among monks, among monasteries, of three disciples of the monk, the Monkey battled all obstacles and in turn affecting the decisions of their lay followers. I stopped by a reserve above Thimphu to look at the national animal and devils, protecting his Master and reaching India in pursuit of of Bhutan, the Takin – a kind of goat-antelope. Roaming the hills of the authentic Buddhist sutras. These were brought to the capital of In last year’s election, the Bhutan United Party, also known as the country, this species used to be coveted prize of big-game trophy Chang An (today’s Xian) where the monk spent the rest of his life the Thrung Thrung, or Black-necked Crane, Party, won by a hunters throughout the Himalayan region. Its range extends from translating them into Chinese. landslide. It took 45 of 47 seats in parliament, leaving only two Shaanxi and of central China, to Yunnan and Tibet in the for the People’s Democratic, or Horse, Party. Having worked on southwest, before crossing into Burma, Assam and Bhutan. “You know, I was not popular for a while during last year’s first research and conservation of the Black-necked Crane for more CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Mural with Black-necked democratic election in Bhutan!” Lyonpo exclaimed. “I decided than two decades, my sentiments of course lean towards the party The mythology about the Takin here in Bhutan fascinated me. Lama Crane; pilgrims at a nunnery; a nomad girl; monks should not be allowed to vote, and they could have counted by the same name. My host suggested that I should visit the crane’s Drukpa Kuenlay (1455 – 1529), the divine “Madman”, is one of a Bhutanese nunnery; Elders visiting monastery for over 10,000 votes in this country.” Some monks were also said winter habitat during my stay in Bhutan and I gladly obliged. Bhutan’s favorite saints, known for his outrageous antics. One day to have complained about the decision which deprived them of his devotees were gathered to witness his magical powers and asked their civic rights. Bhutan is well known for its nature and culture preservation him to perform a miracle. Before complying, he demanded that he be efforts. What would usually be considered backward in a land- given a whole cow and goat to eat. Having devoured both, leaving I again offered my opinion about monastic versus temporal locked country with a traditional lifestyle suddenly became its only the bones, he stuck the goat’s head on the bones of the cow. To life. “Well, I consider when someone takes a vow to become a most valuable assets. When the rest of the world looks back on everyone’s amazement, he uttered a command – and the animal came s monk, he enters the spiritual realm, thus giving up some parts our recent development, most will have wished they had made to life, rose, ran to the meadow, and began to graze.

PAGE 4 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 5 The creature came to be known as the dong gyem tsey, or Takin, and can still be seen grazing on mountain meadows of the kingdom. To this day, it continues to befuddle taxonomists, who put it in a special category. The state bird, however, is the raven. Its habitat is at high elevation, usually between 3,000 and 4,000 meters. Jet black and soaring high with a wide wingspan, it is a symbol of the kingdom, adorning the crown of the King’s ceremonial hat.

While the monks are not allowed to vote, they can watch movies on TV or videotapes at their leisure. I was told they favor Jackie Chan movies, considering the martial art as action and fun, not violent like Western movies. Above all, they said Jackie’s movies have no nudity, so they are safe to watch. In the past, if a family had two boys, they would send one to the monastery. Today, most families prefer sending their sons to college. Many go to nearby India. Those who have the means go to the United Kingdom or United States.

Karma went to Australia to study – not just English, but the art of making coffee. He won’t let anyone touch his machines, caring for them as if they are treasures. After a two-year stint, Karma returned home and opened his own restaurant with a full menu of coffee. His shop in the heart of Thimphu is appropriately named Karma’s Coffee.

My host for dinner was Dasho Karma Ura, Director of the Center for Bhutan Studies, a policy think tank. Dasho studied at both Cambridge and Oxford. It was at his home that I had my first meal in Bhutan, truly authentic and palatable. The main dishes were all vegetables. The local mango as dessert was also delicious. For two separate months in the year, the kingdom refrains from killing animals and most citizens go vegetarian during that period. But in restaurants and hotels, meat is still served, having been frozen or dried ahead of time. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Students making ceramic statues; apprentice in woodcarving; student monks of Bhutan; Ugyen is the son-in-law of my friend Lodi. He was educated in inside monastery; at mountain pass America, at George Mason University in Virginia. Growing up as a close friend of the new king Jigme Khesar Wangchuk, he returned to Bhutan three years ago to serve the then-Crown Prince. Today Ugyen works in the King’s office. During last year’s coronation, Nunnery with about 50 resident nuns, the main assembly hall has high-school dropouts. While they may not be academic In recent years, Bhutan has taken on a new shine among high society. Ugyen was in charge of all media events, taking care of over 100 Thangtong Gyalpo (1385 – 1464) presiding over the central altar. achievers, many were excellent with their hands or Asking if someone has been to the country is akin to asking whether journalists from dozens of countries. The abdication of the former He is revered as a Tibetan saint, renowned for his architectural creative arts. Teachers and artisans in residence teach one has been to a new BanyanTree, an Aman Resort or the seven-star king Jigme Singye Wangchuk at the age of 51, deferring sovereign skills. He built some of the most famous iron suspension bridges ancient skills in designs and crafts of the country. Burj Al Arab Hotel in Dubai. Even a supposedly secret wedding of two power to his son at 26, has been retold many times. It ushered in a throughout the plateau, including some in Bhutan. He is also said Woodwork, carpentry, sculpture, painting, embroidery, Asian celebrities in this remote Himalayan kingdom last year made world period of new thinking among sovereign courts in the world. to have composed many common songs sung during thrashing, weaving, and so on were introduced in different classes. headlines. Paradise Bhutan may seem for those of us coming from, or building construction and other group activities. When these students graduate, they will take up jobs in returning to, our mundane world. But expect a shift in your values as the Ugyen is also the name of our guide. Totally fluent in English, preserving the country’s cultural heritage. experience can also offer a new paradigm. this 28-year-old can answer all my questions about his country, I was most impressed by a visit to the National Institute for often citing dates and periods in Bhutan’s early history. He Zorig Chusum (Thirteen Arts). Many of the 350 students were took me to a local monastery and a nunnery. At the Drubthob

PAGE 6 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 7 he lady in an elegant chatted with me about areas with which she and I were both green silk dress bowed familiar: Lijiang and Kunming, Palpung Monastery and Dege and prostrated in a swift in Sichuan. motion that belied her almost 80 years of age. Her mother had been a princess from Sikkim. In crisp English, TShe repeated the routine a few times she revealed that her father used to host Dr Joseph Rock when with a solemn face before returning to he visited the Himalayan foothills, and she had met the famed her seat next to mine as the chorus of botanist as a young princess herself. I promised that I would send monks chanted to the accompaniment her some of my writings about Joseph Rock, my predecessor at WITH THE ROYAL GRAND of drums and long horns. the National Geographic.

MOTHER OF BHUTAN AT Ashi Kesang Choden Wangchuk The ensemble of monasteries where the ceremony took place TH was born in 1930 and married was one of the most sacred sites in all of Bhutan. An adjacent AN 8 CENTURY BUDDHIST the third King of Bhutan in 1951, temple encompasses an enclave where the Buddhist saint l becoming Her Majesty the Queen Padmasambhava was said to have meditated, leaving an imprint ENCLAVE of this Himalayan kingdom. Today, of his head and body on the rock. Another site in Bhutan where as Royal Grand Mother to the fifth he made his retreat is Taktshang Gomba, or Tiger’s Nest, to Wong How Man King, she was my host as I had a rare which every Buddhist tries to pay homage. Bumthang, Bhutan – June 12, 2009 and privileged glimpse into a private religious ceremony at her bequest for the peace and happiness of the Kingdom of Bhutan. Padmasambhava was an Indian Buddhist Master who brought Buddhism to Tibet and Bhutan, and founded the ancient Nyingma This is a rare honor for someone making his first visit to the of during the 8th Century. Better known country, having performed no service or work of merit. But our as Guru Rinpoche in Bhutan, and as Lianhuasheng (Lotus Born) mutual friend Lodi Gyari, sitting on the other side of Her Majesty, in China and Tibet, he has been revered throughout history and had made it possible through his long friendship with the Royal well into today. Grand Mother. UPPER: Royal Grand Mother, After the ceremony, with an entourage of Buddhist monks in Khyentse Rinpoche, Lodi Gyari I was the only foreign soul allowed in to witness this private rite. It tow, the Royal Grand Mother proudly showed me a temple RIGHT: Khyentse Rinpoche was also the first time the young Khyentse Rinpoche presided over with a huge indoor Mandala of Zangdo Palri to which she had performing ceremony the entire religious ceremony. He is now 15 and a reincarnation endowed the memory of her parents. She also demonstrated how BOTTOM: Religious procession of the Rinpoche, revered throughout the Buddhist to make an offering by throwing some rice grains towards the world as a most knowledgeable Tibetan monk of the last century, altar. From there we moved into some temporary quarters which being also teacher to the 14th Dalai Lama. served as a dining area. I was invited to ride with her in her car while the royal guards ran ahead in the open field to prepare for s Learning about my background of exploration in China through her arrival. some newsletters Lodi had passed along, the Royal Grand Mother

PAGE 8 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 9 n the past, hundreds of caves discovered in China were quickly turned into tourist sites. Sometimes, these caves can be used for other purposes to create higher value. CAVES NOT CERS recently explored two such caves. JUST FOR FromI April 22 to 26, a five-member CERS team explored caves in Panzihua at the invitation of the city’s tourism bureau. This TOURISTS city on the bank of the Yangtze in southern Sichuan bordering Zhang Fan Yunnan was founded as a mining city in the 1960s after iron ore August 19, 2009 – Kunming, Yunnan was discovered nearby.

CERS is an old friend of this city, which is made up of immigrants from all over China. In 1994, it was nominated as recipient of l the United Nations’ Model Community Awards during the United Nations’ 50th anniversary. How Man sat on the selection committee for that award, and later became an advisor to the city’s mayor. I visited Panzihua many times during those years and the present trip seemed like a homecoming.

In the last decade, the winding road from Kunming to Panzihua has been replaced by a highway, making it more user friendly and cutting a long day trip to just a half day. Now, the authorities are similarly planning to develop the caves in western China, including those in Panzihua.

Over a delicious buffet lunch, the Royal Grand Mother and I chatted some Within the last couple of decades, China has moved Apart from mountains, oceans, forests and deserts, caves more about opportunities for CERS to get involved in Bhutan. I told her I to the forefront on the global stage, politically and offer another dimension of scenery and experience. In Europe, wanted to begin with the wintering ground of the Black-necked Crane at the economically. The traditional role CERS played in commercial cave tourism has existed for more than 200 years. pristine Phobjikha valley I had just visited. Here each winter, over 300 of China should expand beyond its immediate frontiers, Caves’ exploration, development, management and conservation these stately birds converge. The wetland also hosted another of our favorite to its neighboring countries. Much of what we have have been perfected with well defined principles and discipline. animals, the river otters. been preserving, be it natural or cultural heritage – like the cranes or Buddhist relics – are shared by people China is a country with an immense network of caves. During the The Royal Grand Mother also wanted me to consider the much-needed across these national borders. It is pertinent that we Ming Dynasty, cave exploration and research within the country restoration to some exceptional but dilapidated murals within the ancient begin focusing our efforts on cross-border projects was well ahead of Europe and the US. But in contemporary times, temple of Tamshing Lhakhang, here in Jakar, within the District of Bumthang, which would not only help fulfill our mission, but development of caves for tourism purposes began only in the an area in Bhutan with some of the oldest Buddhist architecture. I promised to bring friendship and peace to our region. 1980s. look into it. CERS has always been interested in both nature and culture along China’s fringes, and Bhutan fits ideally into those parameters. My first visit to Bhutan may have been short. But Due to their lucrative commercial value, development in cave with the Royal Grand Mother’s patronage, I believe tourism grew popular throughout the country. Every newly we will return soon. discovered sizable cave would quickly be turned into a tourist destiny. Each province has a dozen or more of such tourist caves, and provinces such as Yunnan and Guizhou have more than 100 caves as tourist attractions. Within a short time, China became one of the leading countries in terms of numbers of caves open for tourists. In the 1990s, their development reached a feverish s state.

TOP: Tiger’s Nest of Bhutan CERS caving team exploring new cave in Panzihua BOTTOM: Monastery where Padmasambhava meditate

PAGE 10 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 11 China, on the other hand, has seen only one model resources are the low temperature and underground stream, a of cave development, for tourism. This single use perfect vacation place for a retreat and relaxation. for caves created huge competition, resulting in many caves being advertised and heavily promoted. The cave at Renhe, on the other hand, could best be used by young Many were loudly trumpeted when they opened, but people as a cave exploration site, to be managed by caving clubs quickly fell into disuse. This was a waste of money or special interest groups. Development of such caves is non- and resources, and damaged many pristine caves. intrusive with little to no development, keeping it as primitive as possible. Exploring this cave would satiate a younger generation’s To change the mindset requires a new understanding quest for exploration. of caves and their multiple qualities and possible functions. The two caves under study are great Such exploration into darkness, without artificial lighting, without examples. Panzihua is a modern city of 1.2 million a guide, without a swarm of tourists, is ideal. Good management inhabitants. As an industrial-based city, it has its would ensure safety issues are met, and all dangerous matter own need for nearby tourism destinations, especially removed. In the most difficult to reach places, providing climbing for weekend tourists. To have some natural caves in mechanisms like ropes or stairs would ensure a journey that offers the vicinity is a gift from nature. The city is situated the excitement of danger but without actual risk. inside the Yangtze valley with summer heat reaching 38°C. The East Cave we explored has a year-round Modern techniques and equipment should be made available, like temperature of 18°C to 19°C, about 20°C lower helmets, special clothing, ropes, and even basic skills training than the outside temperature during the summer. It in caving or climbing. This would also provide jobs for trainers. is a perfect natural air-conditioner. Its most valuable Such “development” is not capital intensive and has a low level of impact outside the caves. Using caves in this way is popular CERS has been exploring caves for more than 20 years. Panzihua Our exploration showed the cave to be 123.4 meters in length in the West and I see no reason why it should not be officials invited us here to explore two recently discovered caves, with a maximum height of 7.7 meters and maximum width of 7.5 implemented and well received in China. to assess and advise whether they could be open for tourism. meters. The formation is rather simple and follows the stream’s development As it is still a water-filled cave, it does not have any Both caves we explored are called “Spirit’s Cave” – the most stalagmites. common and popular name given to any cave. Since ancient times, Chinese have considered caves as locations for spiritual masters The second cave, Renhe Spirit Cave, is on a hill behind Renhe or celestial beings to live and meditate. It has become part of the District’s Huben Village next to the Lotus (Lianhua) Temple. It culture of caves, unique to China. To differentiate the cave names, is within the provincial protected forest of Big Black (Da He) we usually add the local place name in front of the common name. Mountain. Our GPS reading of the entrance was 26°39’16.8”N In this case, we called one the Panzihua East Spirit Cave and the and 101°40’05.6”E at an elevation of 2,180 meters. other Panzihua Renhe District Spirit Cave.

This cave is split due to the shifting of two plates. The highest part We left Kunming with a full array of caving equipment, is about 30 meters with a maximum width of only three meters. including 300 meters of ropes and an inflatable boat for exploring Where it is narrow, even a slightly bigger person would find it underground streams. We were ready to tackle even the most difficult to squeeze through. It is simple, with no side channels complex labyrinth. By the time we arrived on site, though, we branching off the main cave. discovered the only equipment we needed were our GPS and laser measuring devices. These two caves turned out to be among the smallest and shortest caves we have ever explored. Compared with many other caves in China, these two are relatively small. Without special features and scenery like the limestone Panzihua East Cave is located only 6.5 kilometers to the east formations of stalactites and stalagmites, the potential for tourism of town, on a hill behind Nong Nong Stream Town at a village is low. But I believe we have a perfect case here to challenge by the same name. The GPS reading was 26°38’03.6”N and China’s penchant for developing caves only for tourism. 101°41’12.4”E with an elevation of 1,882 meters. It has a sub- surface stream and is called a water cave. Over the years I have visited and been inspired by many cave developments in Europe, both large and small. Some of the A pool inside feeds a wide stream which takes up most of the smallest caves were successfully used as hotels, cafés, restaurants cave’s entire width. But the water is shallow and never deeper or even hospitals. Europe’s diversity of cave use derives from than knee-high, flowing outside the cave to become a stream. people’s deep understanding of the uniqueness and integrity of TOP: Three-dimensional cave diagram According to locals, the stream used to come out of a tiny hole caves. LEFT: CERS team squeezing through a and the villagers dug a wider entrance to get more water. When crevice; CERS Zhou Chen Su exploring they did, they found the cave.

PAGE 12 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 13 UNLIKELY TENT-MATE PROVIDES WAKE-UP CALL ON CLIMATE l CHANGE

Wong How Man LEFT: Campsite in eastern Tibet Bianba, Tibet – July 10, 2009 TOP: At foot of a glacier BOTTOM: With monks at Banda near Bienba

wo nights ago, the moon was shining bright. The do when un-pitching a tent, the pika began darting around. Finding CERS has been supporting the study of a rare pika which lives In recent decades, due to global warming, many of the glaciers light penetrated the night air into my tent as I lay no nearby burrow to run to, it tried hiding next to my foot. on the high pastures of the Tian Shan in Xinjiang. The Yili Pika and ice fields of western China have been receding. From the wondering whether to read or to write. At full symbolizes a climate trend which is becoming more apparent Himalayas to the Kulun, the Tanggula Mountains to the Tien moon, my tent felt rather lonely and empty. At an We caught it with our Explorer’s cap, allowing me to have a real throughout inner Asia and much of the world. The little animal Shan, we see glaciers shrinking and snowlines rising as elevation of 4,250 meters, it was also quite chilly. good look at it. While I could not tell its gender, I prefer to think it chooses as its habitat a belt just below the snowline of the high temperatures rise. In the Hengduan Mountains bordering Tibet TIt wasn’t until the next morning as we pulled camp that I realized was a she. After taking some close-up photos, I let it go. It stayed mountains. This may be to protect then from predators like wolves and Yunnan, the situation has become so dire that a former I actually had had a tent mate for the night. under my new Land Rover for a while before heading back into a and eagles which prefer slightly lower elevations. As the snowline perpetual snowfield in Lijiang’s Snow Dragon Mountain has only s hole in the ground. climbs higher each year due to global warming, the pika moves tiny patches of snow in summer. A tiny pika, a rodent on the plateau commonly known as a mouse higher, too. hare, had spent the night under me and my tent, probably due to In recent times, the pika has come to signify environmental the warmth of my body and sleeping bag. As my teammates and I changes on the plateau, which reflect the larger global warming lifted the tent to shake out the dirt from inside, which we always picture.

PAGE 14 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 15 On this expedition, we witnessed many glaciers which had receded huge distances within local people’s recent memory. At one campsite, we set our tents inside a glacial valley within sight of and hiking distance to a group of active glaciers. Avalanches used to expose ice sheets compacted below the heavy snow. Today, they expose huge sections of naked rock on the mountain, a sign the snowfield is thinning.

The glaciers and ice fields that used to feed the important river systems of Asia are drying up and not being replenished as snowfalls grow more sporadic. Bouts of drought which scorch the land are becoming routine rather than occasional. While modern technology provides us with better short-term weather forecasts, we can no longer predict our seasons and yearly climate like our ancestors did. Their knowledge, once based on repeated patterns and experience, is less helpful, as mankind’s actions have disrupted the patterns.

While the world is finally paying belated attention to our environment and trying to turn around an adverse trend, it may be a bit too late. As I traveled on this expedition across Central Tibet, I witnessed desertification along much of the terrain. Entire rivers and streams have completely dried up, even during the current rainy season. A river we used to fish in 15 years ago ran dry. Nomads who used to live nearby were nowhere in sight. They and their livestock which depend heavily on former pasture had had to relocate, looking further afield for green pastures. The situation is dire.

At one glacial valley, we observed a flock of vultures converging near a river. Among the common Himalayan Griffon were a few different-looking vultures. I spotted one with bright red on its bald head. Later I saw another one with a slightly reddish color, likely to be a sub-adult bird of the same species. While I am no ornithologist and could not identify these birds with certainty, they may be red- headed vultures which have never been reported in Tibet but are from India way to the south. They are listed as critically endangered and have become dangerously close to extinction in their usual range. Their appearance this far north, though offering a nice surprise, may be another indicator of climate change.

The Yili Pika may be one of the first species to yield to climate change. As the snowline receded upwards, they moved higher and higher up the mountain. Eventually, the population became isolated in cone-like habitats which could not cross-breed with others of their kind. My tent mate living at a slightly lower elevation may not be in crisis yet, but her cousin’s fate is ringing an alarm bell for the rest of us.

At our first camp site, we were delighted to see a rainbow as we were setting up our tents. Within moments, clouds rushed in through the mountain pass toward us and suddenly it was hailing. This phenomenon seems to reflect the attitude of our generation – enjoy now and worry later. I hope the order can be reversed, though. Let us weather tough times before coming upon brighter days. Man should have the wisdom to turn our climate deterioration around and keep our planet beautiful. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Glacier valley near Like the pika sharing my tent, we are all bedmates with nature, whether we like Bianba; pika of the plateau; the mouse hare in it or not. an Explorer’s cap; vulture with red head

PAGE 16 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 17 RESTING PLACE OF THE SLAUGHTER KNIFE Gom-Gonsar Monastery of Tibet Song Haokun Kunming, Yunnan – August 2009

l

Main statue of Gom-Gonsar Monastery

PAGE 18 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 19 smacking into the wall, there is always a tiny beam of natural light ay down your slaughtering penetrating through at each corner to guide the pilgrims into the knife and take root as a next turn. The symbolic meaning is obvious, teaching us mortals ‘‘ Buddha” is a celebrated to bravely journey on until we see the light, and then continue Buddhist saying and a towards our ultimate destiny. common Chinese idiom. In Buddhist teachings, it means even someone Though the Palabeiqing Sacred is remote and distant, every L year it hosts more than 100,000 pilgrims from afar. During the who is a killer can redeem himself and be liberated as long as in his heart he truly fourth moon in the Tibetan calendar, when the Buddha’s birth is repents his past. commemorated, over 10,000 pilgrims may arrive in a single day.

To circumambulate the stupa 2,500 times, or doing so by Symbolically, such redemption can occur in prostrating 100 times, is a grand circle pilgrimage. Each just a short moment. Put down your sword completion of a grand circle can rid one of all frustrations, worries or knife and you can become a Buddha. and illness. In particular it can neutralize all evils brought about As more and more people reckon with this by demons and deities of the underworld. philosophy, it becomes a persuasive tool to teach people to acknowledge their sins, make Not far up the hill from Gom-Gonsa Monastery and the Palabeiqing amends and become a good person. Stupa is a very large rock. This is considered to be the abode of the guardian god of the monastery and the stupa. Pilgrims hold For a wretched soul to change his behavior, this rock sacred and make offerings and burn incense here on a he must put down the slaughtering knife regular basis. in his heart. But the tools used in such detestable acts – a sword, knife, gun, or any Though this monastery and stupa are important religiously, they violent weapon – cannot simply be left alone did not escape the Cultural Revolution’s rein of damage and or just anywhere where others may pick them destruction. Much of the structure and adjacent quarters were up and be tempted to use them. Kindhearted ravaged and monks were made to scatter or return to civilian life. souls can bring their weapons and deposit Perhaps blessed by the Buddha, important relics and the white them at Gom-Gonsar Monastery. marble as well as carved rocks with mantras were all preserved. These became the foundation of the revival of the monastery and Gom-Gonsar Monastery is in Biru County of the stupa. Naqu Prefecture in northern Tibet. It is one In Buddhism, the Garuda guards knowledge and wisdom. It is an important instrument not hearing slaughter, and not participating in kill” of the animals of the four most important monasteries of in achieving enterprises one sets upon to undertake. The Elephant, on the other hand, to be consumed. Since 1983, due to the monks and lay supplicants’ concerted the Kargyu Sect within Tibetan Buddhism. symbolizes boundless energy and power. The Conch Horn represents the words of the efforts, the monastery and stupa have been almost fully restored. The Tibetan word Kargyu means ‘teaching Buddha, meaning his sacred teachings would spread far and wide. In our mortal world, As a complement to Gom-Gonsa Monastery, within three Though it may look a bit old and ill maintained on the outside, by mouth’. The monks from this sect used to it signifies success and fame. kilometers of the monastery stands the famous Palabeiqing Stupa. the interior is again decorated with murals, sutras and statues and wear white, and were also commonly known It is among the 13 most sacred stupas of the Tibetan region. Built of all sizes. as the White Sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Gom So Gom-Gonsa Monastery is a precious site encompassing a mixture of wisdom, in the year 1071, it is now over 930 years old. It is believed the is the name of the place; Gonsa means ‘new range and teachings. It has been blessed by Padmasambhava, founder of Nyingma, material used in its construction is not stones quarried from earth, Winter months will see hosts of religious activities, including temple’. It is so called because it is believed the earliest sect in Tibetan Buddhism. For these reasons, no wonder people who but pieces of pure white marble descended from the 33 heavenly prayer ceremonies, meditation commencements, sutra recitations, that Gom-Gonsa Monastery was the first repent – including many who take up a vegetarian diet to avoid killing other beings – skies. teachings and debates. When spring arrives, so will the beginning monastery built in this prefecture. bring their swords and guns to be deposited inside the monastery to demonstrate their of days of monastic dances to receive the arrival of the gods and commitment to kindness and compassion. For that reason, the sacred stupa has immense blessing potential. see the departure of evils. For those who are bent on achieving This monastery has a different karmic location Its sanctification empowerment is equivalent to that of Kailash, Nirvana or simply doing kindnesses, you may want to visit Gom- than other Buddhist temples. Situated near Legend has it that once such weapons are left here, the Buddha would be pleased the most sacred mountain in Tibet. To circumambulate this stupa Gonsa Monastery. Put down the slaughtering knife in your heart, the bank of the upper Salween River, from and bestow on them patronizing care. Even if the person were to fall into an abyss or once surpassed the blessing of going around other stupas 10 times. and let the free spirit possess you. the south it looks like the head of a Garuda, cliff, a sacred cloud would appear as a safety net to deliver him heavenward. So many Pilgrims and visitors can circumambulate the stupa’s exterior but a mythical religious bird. Observed from the people have left their weapons here that the place looks like a weapons museum. also enter its inner sanctuary and travel around its interior on two north, it resembles the trunk of an elephant, a additional levels. revered animal in Buddhism. If viewed from Many of the monks and nearby devotees choose to be vegetarians. For those living at above, however, it appears to be in the shape such a towering elevation, above 4,000 meters, this can be testing indeed. Since the These inner corridors are almost pitch dark, yet painted with CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Gom-Gonsar presiding over hilltop; of a white conch horn, a sacred instrument high altitude and cold climate can barely support any agriculture, devout Buddhists murals. Going forward requires being led by the light coming Palabeiqing, oldest stupa of northern Tibet; Mani rock pile; guns and of Tibet. are allowed to eat “three cleansed meat”. The three cleanses are “not seeing butcher, from the heart. While the devoted march on with the fear of weapons offered to temple; big and small stupas

PAGE 20 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 21 A BUDDHA IN DISGUISE Wong How Man Biru, Tibet – July 9, 2009

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Assembly Hall of Gom-Gonsar Monastery; How Man choosing a favorite mask; Danchen, both Party-Secretary and Rinpoche; modest quarters of Danchen when he was a child monk

anchen was born in December Until 2000, Danchen had served as Vice-Party 1946. His home was within sight Secretary with five successive Party Secretaries of both the Nu (Salween) River of Tibet, including during the two-year period and Gom-Gonsar Monastery in when Hu Jintao was Party Secretary. He worked Biru County deep inside Tibet. for two years in Beijing before being transferred AtD three years old, he entered Gonsar monastery in 2002 to Yunnan as Vice-Party Secretary, as a monk. Not just an ordinary monk, but one serving in a provincial leadership role for seven who was specially chosen, or preordained. At years. five years old, he was enthroned as a reincarnated lama, a successor of someone better known as a Due in part to his long writing and publishing Rinpoche or Living Buddha. career, simultaneously he held important and Though his early religious studies were at Gonsar much-respected posts within the country as Vice- monastery, belonging to the Drigung Kargyu Chairman of the Chinese Writers Association as Sect of Tibetan Buddhism, he soon moved to well as the Federation of Literature and Art, posi- Charu monastery where his lineage belongs, tions he kept even beyond his recent retirement a Nyingma monastery. Thus, he was trained with scholarly knowledge of two of from government. Tibet’s most important and early of Buddhism at an early age. Today, Danchen makes his home in Kunming. Through some highly unusual circumstances, Danchen was again chosen at the age He remains active, especially among his many of 13 by yet another important sect of China in the modern era, the Communist Party. fans and followers whom he has amassed He was specially selected to be sent to the “interior” for education near Xian, the old during his long and distinguished career. Always capital of several of China’s earlier dynasties. The Tibetan Oracle must have been in donning a Tibetan felt hat over his well-shaved full play as his fate unfolded in the next few decades. head, Danchen is returning to his roots. Often wearing a saffron tunic, he can be seen attending Upon graduating from high school, Danchen moved on to the Central Minorities ceremonies and rituals of his chosen spiritual Institute in Beijing before he landed in Shanghai’s Fudan University, studying for a realm. degree in Journalism. Later he was assigned to Tibet, working first as a reporter in Lhasa and later as bureau chief for a number of prefectures within Tibet, including a Danchen has visited CERS both in Hong Kong stint at the far-flung corner of Ngari. and Zhongdian, and is a close friend of How Man At the age of 37, he became a member of the Standing Committee of Tibet and the Society. A sacred mask of Aqi, a female Autonomous Region, an inner-circle position sought after by all senior cadres within guardian deity, which Danchen used to perform the party. By 1985, he was named Vice-Party Secretary of Tibet, a highly unusual a religious dance at Gonsar Monastery when he position for someone under 40, and more so for someone with the background of a was 13 now graces the entrance to the Tibetan former monk and Rinpoche. exhibit at our Zhongdian Center.

PAGE 22 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 23 FORGOTTEN CORNER OF TIBET Chen Limei l Lhasa, Tibet – July 2009

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: A caravan on the march; home in the hidden enclave; infant inside Tibetan home; milking yak herd

white and round face with tiny Perhaps they belong to some administrative entity like a district or cherry-like lips. Her black hair production team? Didn’t the government body teach them about was full and curly: She would our country’s birth-control policy and family planning? What surely grow up to be a beauty. about education for the children? They must have heard about such national policies. All these questions continued to baffle me As we were ready to leave, as we drove off. gazed upon this map filled with Tibetan names, some quite a while to adjust to the darkness. There was hardly any furniture another young boy, aged about nine, jumped from the foot of the familiar and heart-warming. I feel fortunate as a CERS staff to speak of, and we huddled close to a simple fire hearth offering bed with the baby and ran out of the house just ahead of us. We Perhaps one day, I would learn the name of this nameless place followed him outside and returned to our camp to pack up. One member that I managed to visit many of these places on the dim lighting. Next to the hearth were a couple of beds with some on the map. By then perhaps they may have a road, a school, elec- of our team members, Eufang, was chatting about our visit, and old blankets and clothing on top, and little else. tricity and other trappings of contemporary life. How I wish to plateau. But this trip to northern Tibet has taken me to many said the most astonishing thing. “The lady of the house said in all see a beautiful future for this family. I have faith that a bright spot unfamiliar places, and I still do not know the names of some seriousness that if I wanted her, she would give me that little baby Two small heads suddenly protruded out of the blankets from the in the heart can shine upon even a forgotten corner of the map. of them. But that doesn’t matter. Even in deep corners unknown to that she had. She found it difficult to raise yet another child.” I bed to the right. Seeing strangers inside their home, they quickly the outside world, there are stories waiting to be told. ducked back under the covers. I glanced around the place tak- Who would ever give away her own child to a stranger, I thought, On July 10, our team set out to visit a few nomad homes at the ing mental notes, and spotted two small earthen yaks about eight let alone such a sweet looking baby girl? Suddenly I wondered foot of a nameless glacier near our campsite. We wanted to buy to ten inches long on the family altar. One even had saddlebags just how many children lived in that household. Six had been some yak-related objects or products for our future exhibit on this sculpted on it. I picked them up and began to negotiate a price as asleep inside; did those gathered outside belong to it as well? subject. As we reached the door of one home, we saw a young I sat upon the bed. couple about 30 years of age with a group of small children who Her home may have lacked many things, but there was certainly appeared to be between the ages of 5 and 11. They were chatting Suddenly I felt I was sitting on something soft and raised the no shortage of children. Perhaps giving away a child is as simple away while struggling to get in front of our cameras to be caught blanket to uncover a pair of girls, about six or seven years old, as giving away a chicken – maybe even more so? on film. They also showed a lot of curiosity about our group sleeping soundly. Not wanting to disturb their dreams, I stood up which descended upon them as if from nowhere. and continued to negotiate for the hand-made yak artifacts. As I I was struck by a sense of sadness and loss. I sighed thinking of was studying the second yak in detail, I heard coughing behind the fate of the baby girl and the family’s living conditions. They I asked a few basic questions about the family as part of our me. have no modern conveniences such as utilities, telephones, televi- survey of the community. But differences in our spoken Tibetan sions, computers. What do they do in their spare time? What are dialect posed some obstacles. We politely obtained permission to I turned around to see a lovely little wide-eyed baby, waving as their aspirations and desires? Under what circumstances and con- enter their home. Once inside this mud-walled house, it took us if welcoming the arrival of our party. She had a high forehead, a victions did their parents bring them into this world?

PAGE 24 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 25 CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: How Man with Wisconsin professor Lynn Jermal and student interns; a sumptuous dinner at Afang’s Karma Café in Old Town Shangri-la; students working diligently; interns in flowering meadow

We then made a quick trip to Tacheng to reunite with the Wisconsin students. They had made some great improvements to our Lisu INTERNS SAVOUR museum exhibits including labeling many of the items on display. I was able to lead some of the students on hikes up the adjacent ridge-top EXOTIC EXCURSIONS through some more lush and humid forest and Paul Buzzard, PhD, Field Biologist up to the ruins of some old cabins. Hopefully, l on such hikes in future we will catch a glimpse of the golden monkeys. f variety is the spice of life then the around the kennel. Rain partly dampened Our last trip for the summer was to the tropical student interns, Education Officer these hikes but the weather soon cleared Hainan Island, a radical change from the edge Xiao Yao and I had an immensely for an epic hike over a pass at 4,800m of the Tibetan plateau in northwest Yunnan. savory summer as we travelled to to a nearby alpine lake. There, we were We were joined by Sharon, an architecture CERS sites around the plateau of higher than any mountain in the lower 48 student from California. Jamie, Darren, Yunnan and tropical Hainan Island. The states of America. We saw an abundance I Christie and Karl are all recent high school first interns arrived in mid-June bringing of wild flowers, with yaks grazing around graduates from Hong Kong and the US. along different experience, skills and the lake. interests: Will, a geography student at While the students mapped the Li village of Hong Shui and collected artifacts to develop Ohio Wesleyan University, Stephanie, a On our return to Shangri-la, we welcomed future museum exhibits, I was in charge of Masters student in East Asian Studies at back the CERS expedition from Tibet identifying hiking trails for future visitors. I Columbia University, and Nick, a recent and were joined by Arthur, a recent high found an interesting trail that began at a small high school graduate bound for college school graduate bound for the University village upriver from Hong Shui along a river in San Francisco. of Southern California. We then travelled tributary and winds past rice fields and into to the Mei Xiang yak cheese factory the forest. The interns hit the ground running and near Langdu village. During this trip, the started mapping Shangri-la Old Town interns got their first taste of some of the Hiking with students in the river was fine, and the Napahai Black-necked Crane difficulties that surround expeditions: The if a little slippery at times. But in the forest Center in relation to Shangri-la, as well road to Langdu over 4,600m passes was there was another inconvenience to consider: as making improvements to exhibitions slick from recent rains and heavily rutted leeches. At times the ground and low plants at the CERS museum in Old Town. from large trucks. Despite some excellent were thick with these bloodsuckers trying They also visited some of the sites driving from Frankie, we eventually had to hang on to us. Brushing them off boots around Shangri-la and were fortunate to to push the van through some difficult or pants was one thing, but pulling them off observe the few Black-necked Cranes spots and onward to the cheese factory. Back at Shangri-la we met Prof Lynn Jermal still lingering around Napahai before from Wisconsin River Falls and five students. your legs or taking off your socks to find fat satiated ones was a different experience, one migrating to the summer nesting ground It was again a priority to map hikes and we Several were suffering from headaches, brought I’m sure the students will not soon forget. higher on the plateau. soon arrived at a nearby pristine sub-alpine on by lengthy travels, jetlag – and high altitude. But I’m also sure they will always remember lake. While going through old growth The Wisconsin group soon continued on to the beautiful forest and the rice paddies with We then travelled to the Tibetan mastiff forest, we looked for signs of deer. After the Tacheng Golden Monkey/Lisu Hill Tribe huts we saw upriver. I had not expected any kennel at Guji and the Dongzhulin appreciating the flowers and vistas around site while we rested in Shangri-la and enjoyed settlements this far inside the forest. It leaves nunnery, both CERS project sites. the lake we continued up to a higher and a highlight of this summer: the solar eclipse. me wondering what more we might find if we During the first afternoon we toured even more pristine lake. In subsequent It was not a total eclipse as hoped for, but the were to hike further into the unknown. the kennel to play with the new puppies days the interns collected flowers to add to weather was great and from the patio in front while enjoying a stunning view of the herbarium, toured the cheese factory, of our Zhongdian Center we had an excellent the sacred Khawakarpo Mountains. I made and sampled the cheese and visited view of the moon overshadowing the sun. When wanted to map nearby hikes and assess traditional Tibetan homes in Langdu for it was 99.2% complete, the eclipse allowed us a their suitability for eco-tourists, so an all-round experience. glimpse of the corona as well as brief views of we set out the following day for hikes Venus and some of the brightest stars.

PAGE 26 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 27 CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Stunning DIE-HARD butterfly, unique beetle, scary scorpion and creepy spiders from Hainan; interns hiking through a stream; Cory LEECHES OF showing off wounds to his thigh and ankle; interns Karl, Cory, Will and Deanna waiting to become leech bait. HAINAN ISLAND l Wong How Man Hong Shui, Hainan Island

“Leeches were our inseparable companions during our sojourn in the Le country. Along the path from the ends of grass blades and branches of shrubs, they may be seen holding by one end while they hold out their whole length, feeling on every side for prey. The instant they touch the foot or hand, or any part of the body, they take fast hold and can only be detached by the application of fire, or when they are sated with blood. It is impossible to escape them.

“All means of subduing them failed, and it became a regular habit on arrival at any place to first sit down and pick off the leeches, which we were careful to destroy with hot coals, to prevent them from injuring others...Unfortunately the scientific name of these Hainan leeches was unknown to us, and all ordinary epithets failed to restrain them in their thirst for blood.” As the distant recesses of Hainan Island are still relatively unexplored, there is much Benjamin Couch Henry, 1886 in Hainan to learn. We may even discover a new species of leeches. Sarcasm aside, the problem at hand is quite real. I quickly fetched the cure-all Yunnan white powder and applied n Henry’s days, when he asked the locals the best form Though the current trip is my seventh in two years, I was not aware it to the interns’ wounds. I assured them that even American soldiers during the of payment for his coolies, the answer was opium. Over a leeches were living within close proximity to us until I saw my Vietnam War found this miracle drug the best way to stop bleeding and prevent hundred years later, opium has long been eradicated. The corps of student interns marching into camp after their morning infection. Li minority’s culture of using tattoos on women’s faces hike. Their clothes were dotted were blood-stained patches. Karl is also fading, and the rare Black Gibbon of Hainan is had several open wounds near his toes, and Cory sported red on Leeches can be terrestrial, freshwater or marine living species. Most are from 1 almostI extinct. But leeches, those die-hard bloodsuckers, continue his chest and buttock. It looked as if they had just returned from centimetre to 5cm long, but some from the Amazon grow up to 30cm. Although to survive and thrive. combat. not all leeches feed on blood, the ones in Hainan’s forests certainly do. They have heat-sensing ability and are able to attach to any warm-blooded animals passing near Combat certainly it was, when they them, or even inch along after their prey. Centipedes are prevalent, providing perfect braved their way through bushes dietary protein for the many chickens scratching and shrubs, following CERS Field After attaching themselves, the leeches can remain undetected as they use a natural around the village. Biologist Dr Paul Buzzard along a anesthetic that keeps a victim from feeling them. It also injects an anticoagulant new path into the nearby mountains. to keep the blood flowing as it sucks up nutrient to satiate itself. Its tiny thin body Topping them all are scorpions. Twice I The plan is to offer such hikes as part transforms into a bloated fat worm. Thankfully leeches are not known to spread discovered these tiny lovely babies, with tails of an ecotourism package. If blood- diseases, and in fact have been used medicinally for bloodletting as far back as upturned, inside my bathtub just as I had letting and feeding ourselves to the 2500 BC in Egypt and in other ancient civilizations. A recent review in the journal stripped and prepared to fill my bath with hungry leeches can be considered Acta Zoologica Sinica indicated there may be new medical applications for leech water. Now they have become exhibitionists ecofriendly, we certainly have a anticoagulants. So perhaps one day we will come to appreciate these bloodsuckers. in a bath of their own – a jar of alcohol. They new selling point for marketing such will take pride of place in our future display of tours. Having leeches feast upon you is a standard tropical forest experience and a great exotic creatures of Hainan Island. conversation starter at cocktail parties. If reading abaout leeches is repulsive, we can Leeches, or ma huang, as they are offer other juicy subjects from deep inside Hainan’s jungle. There is a large variety The leeches, too, will go on show. Expect to called in Chinese, are closely related of glorious butterflies, a spectacular transparent beetle with a golden body inside, see two of them, one a tiny, hungry leech, the to earthworms but many aspects of and fireflies that fill the night skies. Within our project site, we even found a peculiar other a fat satiated one, bloated with blood their taxonomy are still contentious. looking spider with a curved shell that resembles an F-16 fighter plane. from one of our student interns.

PAGE 28 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 29 veryone was up by 7am and breakfast was served Based on this map chart, our Zhongdian Center, the Lisu/Golden quickly. By 8am, more than 20 of us were out in Monkey site and the Mastiff Kennel are all within projection of front of the CERS Center on a wooden deck with viewing coverage of this total eclipse. It was anticipated that the the big open sky above. Some people had come Mastiff Kennel, being our northernmost site, would have up to a long way to get here, just for this very special four and a half minutes of total eclipse whereas Zhongdian Center Emorning. would have two minutes and the Lisu site a little less, being further south. Groups of friends spread out and stationed at different Months ago, we had received information online from NASA, the sites, the Harvard Alumni at the mastiff site, and a professor and Caught on the US space agency. They had created a NASA Eclipse website about students from Wisconsin at our Lisu site. this special total solar eclipse scheduled for July 22. Astronomers and scientists calculated and predicted that a total eclipse of such For two mornings before the eclipse, some of us were up early to thin edge of length and duration – up to six and a half minutes, and with width check the sun’s position at 8am just as it rose above the tree line on band of up to 258 kilometers – happens only once in centuries. the crest of the mountain next to our center. We knew that for our The next total eclipse to surpass this momentous one would not area the eclipse would begin around 8:30am and was to continue a total solar be until 2132, or 123 years later. until almost 9:30am, with the total eclipse happening right around 9am. So we prayed that the sky would not be overcast or foggy on The eclipse was supposed to begin in India and continue through July 22 so we would have the best viewing opportunity. Barton an arched swath visible along a narrow corridor covering part of Choy, an old friend and avid amateur astronomer from California, eclipse Nepal, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Myanmar, Tibet, central Sichuan, gave a briefing to explain the unusual but natural phenomenon, as Wong How Man Hubei and Shanghai until it reached south of Japan’s Ryuku well as what to expect and look out for during the height of the CERS Zhongdian Center, Yunnan – July 22, 2009 Islands in the Pacific. A map from the NASA 2009 Eclipse event. l Bulletin showed the eclipse path and coverage with the central line of the eclipse and adjacent area for best viewing positions. We knew there would be many guests and student interns staying with us during this time, so we purchased in advance a large number Zhongdian, where CERS has our center (for some unknown of special viewing spectacles. We explained to all our guests and reason pinpointed as one of only two places specified by names staff that directly viewing the eclipse could be extremely harmful on map Figure 10 under India-Burma-China) is directly inside the to the eyes, and even cause permanent damage. Even the local two-minutes-of-viewing line. The other place name on this same police chief brought his colleagues to our center, anticipating the s chart is Dibrugarh along the upper Brahmaputra River in India. use of our best viewing devices. Further east, the charts (Figures 11 and 12, and so on) show more city names.

MAIN: Eclipse almost at its height RIGHT: Map with error showing Zhongdian (in red circle) within eclipse belt

PAGE 30 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 31 CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: CERS team during eclipse; crowd watching outside CERS Center; CERS staff fascinated by nature’s spell; sun almost blinded by moon

Dr Bleisch, CERS Science Director, set up one of our Swarovski time felt like evening and then twilight. Just before 9am, the last As the birds started chirping to greet a second sunrise in one us our site was in a Partial Solar Eclipse with a Magnitude of spotting scopes with 20-60 viewing power, but took extraordinary sliver of the moon-like sun slipped into a a mere tiny bright dot as morning, we knew our waiting had been in vain. We would not be 0.992 – just a fraction short of being total. It even gives the start caution to make sure a solar viewing glass covered the entire intake we scanned the skies for the day-time stars, just like looking up viewing a total eclipse afterall. at UT00:03:23.1, maximum at UT01:06:55.1 and ending at lens. Any misstep could jeopardize the viewer’s eyes when the sun at the night sky. UT02:18:27.3. is magnified multiple times. Cao Zhongyu, our video assistant, As an appendix to this NASA map that we used, it cited: also set up one of our cameras with a similar solar-viewing device Barton had told us beforehand that we should be looking out for “Predictions for the Total Solar Eclipse of 2009 Jul 22 were For decades, I have been a fan of NASA, so much so that the little so that anyone could look through it at the eclipse with ease. showing of winter stars and constellations upon the sky, though generated using the VSOP87/ELP2000-82 solar and lunar hibernation icon on my computer is an astronaut walking in space. now we were in the middle of summer. Earlier, using a piece of ephemeredes and a value of AT=66.5 seconds. The accuracy of I have many friends who are scientists at NASA’s Jet Propulsion While there were some occasional clouds, most of the time we paper with a pin-hole, he demonstrated how the lit area in the the northern and southern edges of the eclipse path are limited Lab. We used data collected from several Space Shuttle Missions could see the sun in full. The sun’s full silhouette was strong shadow of our trees took on crescent shapes just like the sun’s. to approximately 1-2 kilometers due to the lunar limb profile.” including the second flight in 1981, and later radar SIR B and enough to penetrate any clouds. At 8:23, we watched the moon’s The wording of the notation was confusing but sounded quite C images from 1984 and 1994 Shuttle flights. Recently I even crescent shape begin to edge over the sun from the lower left hand I caught a glimpse of one of the brighter stars to the east, maybe technical, and being a novice I had full confidence in its authority. had the opportunity to meet several of the best- known astronauts corner. It happened so very slowly, heightening our excitement another planet, and was holding my breath for the approach of total Even Barton had accepted NASA’s published data with absolute including Buzz Aldrin, Gene Cernan and Tom Stafford. gradually. darkness, the thrill of a lifetime during a total eclipse. Everyone faith. around me was also in anticipation of that final moment. But that But when it came to my first chance to view a total solar eclipse, The sun’s silhouette grew smaller and smaller, first a quarter of moment evaded us all. In less than five minutes after the sun had Alas, our confidence in NASA was ill-founded. In retrospect, NASA let me down. In a future incarnation several centuries from darkness, then half, followed by only a quarter of light. By then been reduced to a tiny speck, it began to grow into a very thin had we based our expectations and viewing plans on another site now, when I have an opportunity to see another such eclipse, I the air grew chilly – CERS center is at 3,200 meters elevation – as crescent again. We had viewed an almost-total eclipse, missing it of the eclipse prepared by Google, the result would have been will again look towards the heavens, but not necessarily with the light dimmed. There was an eerie feeling as around us the day by just a teeny-tiny edge. very different. Enter the coordinates of Zhongdian of Latitude NASA as my guide. 27.8038N and Longitude 99.7147E and it would have told

PAGE 32 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 33 CERS IN THE FIELD

Yak cheese tasting by Debra Meiburg, MW, with Ellen and How Man Ranee May with team at cheese factory of Longdu

n Debra Meiburg, Master of Wine, n An award was given by Asian n Students and a professor from tasted our new season’s yak cheese Geographic Magazine under the Best of Singapore’s Nanyang Technological and made valued suggestions Exploration category for Wong How Man’s University visited the CERS site in Hainan regarding flavoring techniques. contribution of “Tibetan Odyssey” in Issue to research several documentary films they No.12 January-February 2002. plan to make later this year. n Ranee May, a professor of TOP: Student Intern team at agricultural science from the n How Man joined a group of veteran n Many student interns participated in CERS CERS Hainan site University of Wisconsin in River Falls, CNAC pilots at the yearly reunion in San summer program at various project sites: MIDDLE: CERS expedition completed her fourth tour for CERS, Francisco. Many of these pilots flew the Karl Cook, Christie Chu, Stephanie Kwai, team at glacier of Tibet to train Tibetans in perfecting their Hump during the War. Nick Lam, Jamie Lee, Bethany Leech, Arthur LOWER LEFT: Students view yak cheese production. Li, Darren Patterson, Deanna Robinson, n CERS entertained the first trial group in William Ruzek, Daniel Selon, Kendra Smith, Black-necked Cranes with n Two new books with stories and ecotourism at our project sites in Yunnan, Cory Windorff and Haiya Zhang. Swarovski optics; Zhou Chen photographs, one on nature and the organized by the Harvard Alumni in Hong Su with too many cameras other on culture, were written by Kong. n How Man delivered lectures in Suzhou to Wong How Man and published by a World President’s Organization (WPO) Taiwan’s Commonwealth Publishers. n In collaboration with the Inle Princess Forum, in Singapore at a dinner hosted by Resort at Inle Lake of Myanmar, the patron Derrick Quek, in San Francisco at NEWS NEWS NEWS NEWS n Archival work began on our huge Burmese Cat Café is finally open to public the CNAC reunion, and in Brighton, UK, at collection of photographs which as a place for visitors to appreciate the the Roedean School. involves organizing and scanning dozens of pedigree Burmese cats now almost a quarter million important born in Myanmar as a result of the joint n CERS friend Benjamin Lung opened his images. Two designated staff are CERS project. new W52 restaurant in Hong Kong which directing and conducting the work. will feature select film footage of CERS projects at designated time.

CERS IN THE MEDIA l Riz Khan, host of the popular One-on- l Geographical Magazine, the journal of l A new book authored by Teng Ming One program on Al Jazeera TV Channel, the Royal Geographical Society in the Yee devotes one chapter to How Man produced a half-hour personality feature UK, published a major article about the and his career. of How Man based on an interview he current CERS project on Hainan island. did with him in New York. The channel l An academic paper “Li Nationality reaches 175 million households l Hainan Daily, the province’s most Culture Protection & Tourism throughout the world. important paper, published a three-page Devlopment” that uses the CERS project story about CERS project at the last site as a case study has been published l CCTV aired a feature on CERS project remaining Li village. by Hou Ying-ying and Zhang Fan in the that is involved in satellite tracking of journal Yunnan Geographic Environment the Black-necked Cranes at Napahai l RTHK radio of Hong Kong interviewed Research. near our Zhongdian Center. How Man as part of a panel discussion on the current situation in Xinjiang.

PAGE 34 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 35 THANK YOU THANK YOU

n Buzz Aldrin, the NASA astronaut who landed on the moon with the Apollo 11 mission, visited Hong Kong as a guest of Omega. Many CERS patrons attended the dinner.

n Omega has issued a special CERS edition Seamaster watch with two different color choices. Each model is limited to only 361 pieces with engraving of a CERS emblem in the back. This is in recognition of our exploration and conservation work as well as for support of CERS.

n Nancy Allison Wright allowed CERS access to two old films, taken by her father between 1929 and 1939 in China. The hour-long footage covered a period in China when film records were scarce. Ernest Allison was Operations Manager and Chief Pilot of the fledgling airline CNAC. Allison mentored Claire Chennault of Flying Tiger fame prior to his arrival in China.

n Several US patrons continued their support of CERS. They are Scott and Signe Cook, Judith Corrente and Joel Horowitz. David and Gina Chu also made a contribution to CERS.

n The Moritz Foundation made another major donation to CERS for 2009.

n Eric Chen, CERS Director from Taiwan, continued his funding support for CERS. UPPER: CERS patrons and guests dining with n Kevin Chau, Kevin Lo and Stephen Suen continued as CERS patrons in Hong Kong. NASA astronaut Buzz Aldrin; LOWER: Omega’s CERS special edition watch n Dennis Cicetti made a donation to CERS.

CURRENT PATRONS Hong Kong Overseas Corporate lGigi Arnoux lDanny & Eva Patterson lEric Chen lCity Developments Limited lKevin Chau lStephen Suen lScott & Signe Cook lCathay Pacific Airways lBen Chang lHamilton Tang lJudith-Ann Corrente lCoca-Cola lJames Chen lJames & Mary Tien lEster Goelkel lDragonair lWilliam E. Connor lMichael Tien lJoel Horowitz lEu Yan Sang Int’l Ltd lWilliam Fung lNissim Tse lBarry Lam lIDS Group lHans Michael Jebsen lKenneth & Linda Wang lLady McNeice lLand Rover lThomas & Linda Lau lPatrick Wang lLinda Mu lOmega lChristabel & Ricky Lau lDora Wu lElsa Peretti lSampo Group lSammy & Wendy Lee lMarjorie Yang lDerrick Quek lTumi, Inc. lAudrey Lo lSonny Yau lOliver Silsby lUBS lKevin Lo lWellington & Virginia Yee lDavid Mong lLulu Yu lDaniel Ng lBilly Yung

A subscription to this newsletter is US$100 for three issues. CERS’ MISSION: All proceeds support CERS projects. The mission of CERS is to EXPLORE remote regions Please contact us directly if you are interested in signing up. of China, conduct multi-disciplinary RESEARCH, CONSERVE See the bottom of page two for contact details. nature and culture, and EDUCATE through dissemination of results in popular channels.

The production of China Explorers is made possible through the generous contributions of Toppan Vite Limited

PAGE 36 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY