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CHINA EXPLORERS China Exploration and Research Society VOLUME 11 NO A NEWSLETTER TO INFORM AND ACKNOWLEDGE CERS’ FRIENDS AND SUPPORTERS CHINA EXPLORERS CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY VOLUME 11 NO. 3 AUTUMN 2009 3 Himalayan paradise and paradigm kingdom CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: 8 With the Royal Grand Mother of Bhutan at an 8th Century Buddhist enclave Watching the almost total solar 11 Caves not just for tourists eclipse at CERS Center; How 14 Unlikely tent-mate provides wake-up call on climate change Man with Wisconsin professor 18 Resting place of the slaughter knife - Gom-Gonsar Monastery of Tibet and students; pika of the plateau; 22 A Buddha in disguise pilgrims at a Bhutanese nunnery 24 Forgotten corner of Tibet 26 Interns savour exotic excursions 28 Die-hard leeches of Hainan Island 30 Caught on the thin edge of a total solar eclipse 34 CERS in the Field 35 News/CERS in the Media A NEWSLETTER TO INFORM AND ACKNOWLEDGE CERS' FRIENDS AND SUPPORTERS Directors: CHINA WONG HOW MAN, Founder/President MAGNUS BARTLETT, Director, HIMALAYAN Odyssey Publications EXPLORERS WILLIAM BLEISCH, PhD, CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PARADISE AND Science Director, CERS VOLUME 11 NO.3 AUTUMN 2009 CYNTHIA D’ANJOU BROWN, PARADIGM KINGDOM Philanthropy Adviser, HSBC Private Bank President’s Message JAMES CHEN, CERS Chairman, ERS has just embarked on organizing the huge Managing Director, Legacy Advisors Ltd. archive of our work. Much of this intellectual and ERIC CHEN, Chairman, Sampo Corporation material property will constitute a legacy we can pass BARRY LAM, Chairman, Quanta Computer, Taiwan on to future generations. While we are still pushing DANIEL NG, Former Chairman, ahead with some important projects, we are also McDonald’s Restaurants (HK) Ltd. Ctaking time to look back to sort out our records. Such an archive is a MICHAEL J MOSER, PhD, Partner, repository of knowledge, as well as a case study to inspire others. Our O’Melveny & Myers future endowment would ensure that this wealth is preserved. MARJORIE YANG, Chairman, The Esquel Group In this issue, we continue to show you CERS’ diversity. Articles relate CERS Field Staff: how we live up to our mission in exploration, research, conservation and WILLIAM BLEISCH, PhD, Chief Biologist education. In recent years, we have taken our exploration beyond China’s frontiers into inland Southeast PAUL BUZZARD, PhD, Field Biologist Asia as well as south of the Himalayas. In time, we will also explore Inner Asia or even north Asia. CAO ZHONGYU, Logistics Support CHEN LI MEI, Zhongdian Centre Vice Director Occasionally, I have been criticized for being not focused. But why focus when we continue to make LI NA, Kunming Admin. Officer discoveries, pioneer new projects with innovation, and deliver results within a short time? People have LIU HONG, Speleologist also accused me of having too many interests. My take on it is that I get bored easily and constantly look QIJU QILIN, Zhongdian Centre Director for new subjects. MARTIN RUZEK, Earth System Scientist WANG JIAN, Project Manager Perhaps that is why I seek new grounds for exploration and as project sites. Each new site becomes my ost people come to Bhutan for the peace YAO XUE MEI, Education Officer playground, where I delve in wholeheartedly with passion. Perhaps that is why when I describe our work and tranquility, not least the Gross ZHANG FAN, Kunming Conservation Center Director and projects, some friends feel my enthusiasm is contagious. I believe that may be why so many of you ZHOU CHEN SU, Speleologist National Happiness or “GNH” for which continue to support CERS. the Himalayan kingdom is best known. CERS Office Staff: Just two hours after my arrival in the CERS is becoming older, as people’s life expectancy is growing longer. With the introduction of better BERRY SIN, Logistics Director capital of Thimphu, I find myself having dinner in the privacy of preventive measures against illness, modern drugs and cures for ailments, and life-prolonging machines, M TRACY MAN, Accountant a home, sitting next to Chief Justice Lyonpo Sonam Tobgay, and we can out-run death even if our many faculties should fail us. Some day in the near future, we may indeed listening in on a discussion about the country’s legal road ahead. I call 60 the ripe age for a mid-life crisis. That is what I am stepping into as I write this. Editorial Consultant: am in company of a friend of the chief justice: Lodi Gyari, Special CATHY HILBORN FENG For my 60th birthday, I took a break in a place without a phone, television and news, not unlike an Envoy of the Dalai Lama. expedition into the deep unknown spaces on earth. There I reflected on my past, while trying to chart the Design and Printer: future. Like the watersheds of great river sources I once stood upon, I am now at another threshold of my To illustrate his point, Lyonpo occasionally makes references to TOPPAN VITE LIMITED life. As my physical energy decreases, I hope my mental stamina increases, as we continue to bring you legal entities from classical times in other parts of the world, be (852) 2973 8600 news of our latest work. it the Qin Dynasty or that of early Constantinople. Lyonpo is a man of knowledge. I found little opportunity to offer an opinion HOW TO REACH CERS: until his conversation turned to Buddhism. The Chief Justice Unit 7 & 8, 27/F, Tower B, SouthMark, was interested in finding more common law and practices within Buddhist sutra that can be applied in contemporary times, and 11 Yip Hing Street, Wong Chuk Hang, Hong Kong Wong How Man l phone (852) 2555 7776 fax (852) 2555 2661 incorporated into today’s laws. Bhutan is the only country which Thimphu, Bhutan – June 8, 2009 e-mail: [email protected] Wong How Man embraces Buddhism as its state religion. Website: www.cers.org.hk Founder/President, CERS TOP: The Zong at Paro “Who was that early pilgrim monk who went from China to India BOTTOM: A Takin, Bhutan’s national animal With respect to the entire contents of this newsletter, including its photographs: CERS TAI TAM RESEARCH CENTER to obtain sutras?” Lyonpo asked, turning to me. “Xuan Zang, of All Rights Reserved. Copyright 2009. @ China Exploration and Research Society. (852) 2809 4181 s Please contact CERS for reprint permission. the Tang Dynasty,” I replied. But I could not help but inject PAGE 2 CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY CHINA EXPLORATION AND RESEARCH SOCIETY PAGE 3 that most Chinese children learned the story of the monk not from of the human realm.” Lyonpo said that he was more concerned more equitable planning with respect to their natural and cultural classical history, but from the fictional story, “Journey to the about religion entering into politics, and in the process creating heritage while forging ahead with modernity. West” – or from comic books about the Monkey King. As head unwanted rivalry or conflict among monks, among monasteries, of three disciples of the monk, the Monkey battled all obstacles and in turn affecting the decisions of their lay followers. I stopped by a reserve above Thimphu to look at the national animal and devils, protecting his Master and reaching India in pursuit of of Bhutan, the Takin – a kind of goat-antelope. Roaming the hills of the authentic Buddhist sutras. These were brought to the capital of In last year’s election, the Bhutan United Party, also known as the country, this species used to be coveted prize of big-game trophy Chang An (today’s Xian) where the monk spent the rest of his life the Thrung Thrung, or Black-necked Crane, Party, won by a hunters throughout the Himalayan region. Its range extends from translating them into Chinese. landslide. It took 45 of 47 seats in parliament, leaving only two Shaanxi and Sichuan of central China, to Yunnan and Tibet in the for the People’s Democratic, or Horse, Party. Having worked on southwest, before crossing into Burma, Assam and Bhutan. “You know, I was not popular for a while during last year’s first research and conservation of the Black-necked Crane for more CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Mural with Black-necked democratic election in Bhutan!” Lyonpo exclaimed. “I decided than two decades, my sentiments of course lean towards the party The mythology about the Takin here in Bhutan fascinated me. Lama Crane; pilgrims at a nunnery; a nomad girl; monks should not be allowed to vote, and they could have counted by the same name. My host suggested that I should visit the crane’s Drukpa Kuenlay (1455 – 1529), the divine “Madman”, is one of a Bhutanese nunnery; Elders visiting monastery for over 10,000 votes in this country.” Some monks were also said winter habitat during my stay in Bhutan and I gladly obliged. Bhutan’s favorite saints, known for his outrageous antics. One day to have complained about the decision which deprived them of his devotees were gathered to witness his magical powers and asked their civic rights. Bhutan is well known for its nature and culture preservation him to perform a miracle. Before complying, he demanded that he be efforts. What would usually be considered backward in a land- given a whole cow and goat to eat. Having devoured both, leaving I again offered my opinion about monastic versus temporal locked country with a traditional lifestyle suddenly became its only the bones, he stuck the goat’s head on the bones of the cow. To life. “Well, I consider when someone takes a vow to become a most valuable assets. When the rest of the world looks back on everyone’s amazement, he uttered a command – and the animal came s monk, he enters the spiritual realm, thus giving up some parts our recent development, most will have wished they had made to life, rose, ran to the meadow, and began to graze.
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