✂ instant escapes CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I LOVERS’ VENICE See & DO practised at their former home, the l The most serene wake- deluxe Palladio Hotel and Spa (see up call in town is breakfast on the Stay, overleaf; 6 )? Some are sinful waterfront terrace at Angiò Bar (Riva — ergo perfect for lovers. The San Biasio, Castello 2142; 1 on map). two-hour Ritual of Dreams ticks off a Puff-perfect croissants, espressos Turkish bath, scalp massage and Feng with a kick, perhaps a splash of Shui facial massage, before a foot rub Prosecco in your fresh orange juice with goat’s-milk mousse (£213pp). — and the Bay of St Mark’s before Beats a box of Milk Tray. you, like your own private beach. l Quirky keepsakes to take home? l Remember your vows over Sunday In Cannaregio, the rafters of Roberto Mass at the jewel-box church of Comin’s top-floor workshop (www. Castello's San Giovanni Il Bragora marionettesinvenice.com; 7 ) are (sgbattistainbragora.it; 2 ), set in CELEBRITY hung with Pinocchios, Casanovas a pretty square. The priest gives APPROVAL and Carnival Queens redolent of the The craftsman is his blessing to the community, from 18th century, when most of these cagey about elderly ladies to young believers, clients, but a little characters were born (prices from under one of the most moving bird told us that £170). Roberto has been carving posh paintings in art history, the Baptism a certain Jack puppets quietly up here for nearly Sparrow has of Christ by Cima da Conegliano. Its one in his own 30 years, while his sister, Manuela, languid limbs and limpid light seem dastardly image makes the sumptuous costumes. to underline the power of love. l Gliding on a luxury launch — as the l Stretched above Santa Maria della morning sun burns the mist off the Salute Church 3 , the tie-dyed skies mirror-still lagoon — is a Clooney- that inspired Turner will seduce you worthy romantic outing, though it on a twilight tour with guide Cristina comes with a price tag to match. Gregorin (slow-venice.com; two hours Lagunalonga (lagunalonga.com; £128 for four). Included is a private from £1,200 for two) can take you to sunset sail down the Grand Canal to San Francesco del Deserto 8 , the the hidden backwaters of Cannaregio, rose-fringed monastery island where Love’s young splashed with the light of the moon. dream: strolling in St Francis prayed with the birds. The romantic highlight is an aperitivo a deserted St Mark’s Expect lunch cooked on board by a top on the terrace of Algiubagio restaurant Square at sunrise; chef and — as the sun sinks over the below, boats 4 9 (algiubagio.net; ), facing Isola de San moored in the belltower of Torcello island — Vivaldi Michele 5 , the cemetery island: quite Venetian lagoon; performed by musicians on deck. instant ghostly with its coal-black cypresses. Santa Maria della Salute Church l Or, more affordably, you can helm dominates the l escapes What would the 16th-century nuns Dorsoduro your own gondola, supervised by an have made of the ‘couples’ rituals’ now peninsula expert: from the water every hidden gargoyle and secret tunnel is on show. A private lesson with one of the local teachers at Row Venice (rowvenice. org; £72 for up to two people) makes for a magical 90 minutes as you navigate atmospheric waterways in Lovers’ Venice the time-honoured way. Remember, Skip the Cornetto-ad clichés and fall for the city — cringe-free Venetians do it standing up! l Medieval wells, mystical It’s one of the world’s most seductive cities — but it’s all too easy to get archways… The cloister at the it all too cheesy. Want to avoid a romantic weekend shared with every Castello's Church of San Francesco della Vigna (free; 10 ) is the perfect place other swooning couple? We’ve scoured the city for sweet little churches, to pop the question. Need a little lover’s heart-stirring art and mist-wreathed lunches beside the lagoon — where courage? Say your prayers first — the tourists fear to tread. Here’s the lovers’ lowdown. By Rachel Spence before the church’s crowning glory, the Virgin and Child Enthroned, painted by Fra Antonio Negroponte, featuring the sacred pair framed by a manicured 'orchard' of flowers in full bloom.> 128 SUNDAY TIMes TRAvel MARCH 2017 MARCH 2017 SUNDAY TIMes TRAvel 129 ✂ instant escapes CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I LOVERS’ VENICE EAT DRINK & SHOP l Pasta-free veggie l Classy cocktails ORIENT EXPERIENCE (Mains L’OMBRA DEL LEONE about £7) Because: Aperitivi come with views Because: This local haunt makes a of Santa Maria della Salute Church change from Venice’s fishy pastas: across the Grand Canal. Travel’s tip: veggie curries, falafel, hummus and An Ugo (Prosecco with elderflower couscous, with divan seating. Travel’s and a sprig of mint) is the drink tip: Self-catering? There’s an excellent du jour. Calle Tredici Martiri; 16 . takeaway service if you’d like to eat at home. Rio Terà Farsetti, Cannaregio; l Perfect paper 00 39 041 822 4337; 11 . ALBERTO VALESE-EBRU Because: Artisan papers take their l The island idyll evanescent, marbled beauty from the AL GATTO NERO (Mains about £10) old Ottoman technique of Ebru. Buy! Because: The owner often catches Travel’s tip: Mobiles of semi-precious the fish by hand, so it’s jumping-fresh rocks that float like flying fish (from when his papa (the chef who’s been £50) are light enough for hand-luggage making risotto since forever) turns it travellers. Campo San Stefano 347; into perfection on a plate. Travel’s tip: albertovalese-ebru.it; 17 . Book a canalside table overlooking the esseNtial l island’s pretty, pastel-coloured fishing DetoUR Glass with class cottages. Via Giudecca 88, Burano; Burano is the Massimo MicHELUZZI 00 39 041 730120, gattonero.com; 12 . home of lace, and Because: This master craftsman you can watch makes vessels that might resemble makers at work in l Fishy feast the Lace Museum mosaics, or reflections on water, but all ANICE STELLATO (Mains about £17) (Palazzo Galuppi cross the divide between art and craft Because: It does delicious octopus and 187; £4.20) (from £515). Travel’s tip: Call ahead sweet-and-sour scampi, followed by a for an appointment with Mr M himself. tiramisu so light it almost floats, served Ponte delle Maravegie, Dorsoduro; at a canalside table — perfect for 00 39 041 528 2190; 18 . sunset . Travel’s tip: It’s billed as a fish restaurant, but its steak tartare is a carnivore’s favourite. Fondamenta de STAY l Lagoon luxury l Garden retreat Get ME THere la Sensa, Cannaregio; 00 39 041 ASK THE l Low-cost lovely VENISSA (Doubles from £103, B&B) PALLADIO HOTEL & SPA GO INDEPENDENT 720744, osterianicestellato.com; 13 . LOCAL IL GIARDINO DI GIULIA (Doubles Because: You’re a 40-minute boat ride (Doubles from £166, B&B) BA (ba.com) has flights to Venice Marco Giusi Scavuzzo is an from £60, B&B) from Venice in this converted manor Because: It occupies a former Palladian Polo from Heathrow, from £94, and l Local by name… architect who lives in Because: It’s a no-brainer for lovebirds house on a secluded island. In your convent on Giudecca island; hide out from Gatwick, from £70 return. Jet2 the Cannaregio district LOCAL (Mains about £22) on a budget — a tucked-away 16th- loft-luxey studio room, you'll wake on a sunlounger somewhere in its (jet2.com) flies from Leeds Bradford, BEST TIME Because: The goby fish in this airy century palazzetto, done up in to the sound of gulls, not vaporetti. TO VISIT walled gardens. Luxurious rooms Edinburgh and Manchester from £45 restaurant's risotto have come cappuccino-cool colours, with With its walled vineyard and gourmet Spring is without overlook the canal that fronts Piazza one way. EasyJet (easyjet.com) flies straight from the lagoon. The chef's Some of the best fresh fish homemade breads and tarts for restaurant, this is an essential lovers’ doubt the season San Marco. Travel’s tip: For total privacy, from five UK airports, including Bristol contemporary in every way. Travel’s where I live comes from breakfast. Travel’s tip: You’re a short ‘leap’. Minimum two-night stay. to be here, as the get a room in the separate Conventino and Luton, from £19 one way. From lawns are a riot tip: At £55 for five courses, the tasting a stall next to Ponte del Guglie — you walk from the much-loved gelateria Travel’s tip: Don’t schlep to Piazza San of tulips, narcissi building, immersed in a bower of white May, Stobart Air (flybe.com) will fly from menu is top value. Salizzada dei have to fight off the seagulls! Opposite Alaska, so go — for rocket and orange, Marco more than once — eat and nap and crocuses hydrangeas. Giudecca 33; 00 39 041 Southend from £40 one way. Greci, Castello 3303; 00 39 041 WHAT to is an excellent bakery, too (Panificio cinnamon, ginger or liquorice ice here instead. Fondamenta di Santa 520 7022, palladiohotelspa.com; 6 . ORDer 14 19 IC 241 1128, ristorantelocal.com; . On Thursdays, Baldin di Baldin Romina 1291; ). creams. Santa Croce 965; 00 39 041 H Caterina 3, Mazzorbo; 00 39 041 527 GO PACKAGED the bakery does I always like to pop into Glamour 200 7786, ilgiardinodigiulia.com; 22. 2281, venissa.it; 24. l Clooney style Citalia (01293 765066, citalia.com) has l Elegant supper fab homemade boutique (Cannaregio 1298; 20), at the AMAN VENICE (Doubles from three nights at a four-star with Grand AMAN VENICE (Mains gnocchi (pumpkin bottom of the bridge.