129
> vel . a , painted painted , are r
— Vivaldi Vivaldi — , the ) 9 8 7 es T m i . redolent of the , before a foot rub day T day ) is the perfect place n , supervised by an 10 Su )? Some)? are sinful
6 The cloister at the MARCH 2017 Virgin and Child Enthroned Child and Virgin rose-fringed monastery island where where island monastery rose-fringed St Francis prayed with the birds Expect lunch cooked on board by a top chef and — as the sun sinks over the belltower of Torcello island — ergo perfect for lovers. The two-hour Ritual of Dreams ticks off a Turkish bath, scalp massage and Feng Shui facial massage with goat’s-milk mousse (£213pp). Beats a box of Milk Tray l Quirky keepsakes to take home? In Cannaregio, the rafters of Roberto (www. workshop top-floor Comin’s marionettesinvenice.com; practised at their former home, the home, former their at practised deluxe Palladio Hotel and Spa (see Stay, overleaf; performed by musicians on deck. morel Or, affordably, you can helm gondola own your expert: from the water every hidden gargoyle and secret tunnel is on show. A private lesson with one of the local (rowvenice. Venice Row at teachers org; £72 for up to two people) makes for a magical 90 minutes as you in waterways atmospheric navigate Remember, way. time-honoured the Venetians do it standing up! l Medieval wells, mystical archways… Castello's Church of San Francesco della Vigna (free; hung with Pinocchios, Casanovas Casanovas Pinocchios, with hung Queens Carnival and 18th century, when most of these characters were born (prices from £170). Roberto has been carving posh puppets quietly up here for nearly Manuela, sister, his while years, 30 costumes. sumptuous the makes l Gliding on a luxury launch — as the morning sun burns the mist off the mirror-still lagoon — is a Clooney- it though outing, romantic worthy comes with a price tag to match. (lagunalonga.com; Lagunalonga from £1,200 for two) can take you to San Francesco del Deserto to pop the question. Need a little lover’s courage? Say your prayers first — before the church’s crowning glory, the by Fra Antonio Negroponte, featuring the sacred pair framed by a manicured 'orchard' of flowers in full bloom.
ark’s instant escapes aria della della aria cagey about cagey Sparrow has Sparrow a certain Jack one in his own APPROVAL CELEBRITY bird told us that LOVERS’ VENICE LOVERS’
dastardly image dastardly The craftsman is craftsman The I clients, but a little a but clients, orsoduro
Love’s young young Love’s in strolling dream: a deserted St M Square at sunrise; sunrise; at Square boats below, the in moored lagoon; Venetian M Santa Church Salute the dominates D peninsula
.
on map). 1 Baptism Baptism ), set), in 2 , espressos ,
o ), facing), Isola de San , the tie-dyed skies 4 3 & d croissants , the cemetery island: quite in your fresh orange juice ee
5 S l The most serene wake- , like your own private beach. hidden backwaters of Cannaregio, Cannaregio, of backwaters hidden Stretched above Santa Maria della of Christ by Cima da Conegliano. Its languid limbs and limpid light seem to underline the power of love. l Church Salute Puff-perfect with a kick, perhaps of a splash Prosecco — and the Bay of St Mark’s before you l Remember your vows over Sunday Mass at the jewel-box church of Castello's San Giovanni Il Bragora (sgbattistainbragora.it; a pretty square. The priest gives his blessing to the community, from believers, young to ladies elderly under one of the most moving the history, art in paintings that inspired Turner will seduce you ona twilight tour with guide Cristina Gregorin (slow-venice.com; two hours £128 for four). Included is a private to Canal Grand the down sail sunset the splashed with the light of the moon The romantic highlight is an aperitivo restaurant Algiubagio of terrace the on (algiubagio.net; CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE CUT-OUT-AND-GO Michele Michele ghostly with its coal-black cypresses. l What would the 16th-century nuns have made of the ‘couples’ rituals’ now ✂ up call in town is breakfast on the waterfront terrace at Angiò Bar (Riva San Biasio, Castello 2142;
lovers’ lowdown. By Rachel Spence Venice
MARCH 2017 vel a r es T
m i
day T day
n Su
instant escapes 128 Skip the Cornetto-ad clichés and fall the for city — cringe-free It’s the one of world’s most seductive cities — but it’s get to all easy too it all too cheesy. Want to avoid a romantic weekend shared with a romantic avoid every weekend to Want it all cheesy. too the scoured city little sweet We’ve for churches,swooning other couple? heart-stirring art and lunches mist-wreathed beside the lagoon — where the tourists tread. the Here’s to fear Lovers’ ✂ instant escapes
CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I LOVERS’ VENICE
Eat DRINK & shop l Pasta-free veggie l Classy cocktails ORIENT EXPERIENCE (Mains L’OMBRA DEL LEONE about £7) Because: Aperitivi come with views Because: This local haunt makes a of Santa Maria della Salute Church change from Venice’s fishy pastas: across the Grand Canal. Travel’s tip: veggie curries, falafel, hummus and An Ugo (Prosecco with elderflower couscous, with divan seating. Travel’s and a sprig of mint) is the drink tip: Self-catering? There’s an excellent du jour. Calle Tredici Martiri; 16 . takeaway service if you’d like to eat at home. Rio Terà Farsetti, Cannaregio; l Perfect paper 00 39 041 822 4337; 11 . ALBERTO VALESE-EBRU Because: Artisan papers take their l The island idyll evanescent, marbled beauty from the Al GATTO NERO (Mains about £10) old Ottoman technique of Ebru. Buy! Because: The owner often catches Travel’s tip: Mobiles of semi-precious the fish by hand, so it’s jumping-fresh rocks that float like flying fish (from when his papa (the chef who’s been £50) are light enough for hand-luggage making risotto since forever) turns it travellers. Campo San Stefano 347; into perfection on a plate. Travel’s tip: albertovalese-ebru.it; 17 . Book a canalside table overlooking the essential l island’s pretty, pastel-coloured fishing detour Glass with class cottages. Via Giudecca 88, Burano; Burano is the Massimo Micheluzzi 00 39 041 730120, gattonero.com; 12 . home of lace, and Because: This master craftsman you can watch makes vessels that might resemble makers at work in l Fishy feast the Lace Museum mosaics, or reflections on water, but all ANICE STELLATO (Mains about £17) (Palazzo Galuppi cross the divide between art and craft Because: It does delicious octopus and 187; £4.20) (from £515). Travel’s tip: Call ahead sweet-and-sour scampi, followed by a for an appointment with Mr M himself. tiramisu so light it almost floats, served Ponte delle Maravegie, Dorsoduro; at a canalside table — perfect for 00 39 041 528 2190; 18 . sunset . Travel’s tip: It’s billed as a fish restaurant, but its steak tartare is a carnivore’s favourite. Fondamenta de Stay l Lagoon luxury l Garden retreat Get me there la Sensa, Cannaregio; 00 39 041 ASK THE l Low-cost lovely VENISSA (Doubles from £103, B&B) PALLADIO HOTEL & SPA GO INDEPENDENT 720744, osterianicestellato.com; 13 . LOCAL IL GIARDINO DI GIULIA (Doubles Because: You’re a 40-minute boat ride (Doubles from £166, B&B) BA (ba.com) has flights to Venice Marco Giusi Scavuzzo is an from £60, B&B) from Venice in this converted manor Because: It occupies a former Palladian Polo from Heathrow, from £94, and l Local by name… architect who lives in Because: It’s a no-brainer for lovebirds house on a secluded island. In your convent on Giudecca island; hide out from Gatwick, from £70 return. Jet2 the Cannaregio district LOCAL (Mains about £22) on a budget — a tucked-away 16th- loft-luxey studio room, you'll wake on a sunlounger somewhere in its (jet2.com) flies from Leeds Bradford, BEST TIME Because: The goby fish in this airy century palazzetto, done up in to the sound of gulls, not vaporetti. TO VISIT walled gardens. Luxurious rooms Edinburgh and Manchester from £45 restaurant's risotto have come cappuccino-cool colours, with With its walled vineyard and gourmet Spring is without overlook the canal that fronts Piazza one way. EasyJet (easyjet.com) flies straight from the lagoon. The chef's Some of the best fresh fish homemade breads and tarts for restaurant, this is an essential lovers’ doubt the season San Marco. Travel’s tip: For total privacy, from five UK airports, including Bristol contemporary in every way. Travel’s where I live comes from breakfast. Travel’s tip: You’re a short ‘leap’. Minimum two-night stay. to be here, as the get a room in the separate Conventino and Luton, from £19 one way. From lawns are a riot tip: At £55 for five courses, the tasting a stall next to Ponte del Guglie — you walk from the much-loved gelateria Travel’s tip: Don’t schlep to Piazza San of tulips, narcissi building, immersed in a bower of white May, Stobart Air (flybe.com) will fly from menu is top value. Salizzada dei have to fight off the seagulls! Opposite Alaska, so go — for rocket and orange, Marco more than once — eat and nap and crocuses hydrangeas. Giudecca 33; 00 39 041 Southend from £40 one way. Greci, Castello 3303; 00 39 041 WHAT to is an excellent bakery, too (Panificio cinnamon, ginger or liquorice ice here instead. Fondamenta di Santa 520 7022, palladiohotelspa.com; 6 . order 14 19 IC 241 1128, ristorantelocal.com; . On Thursdays, Baldin di Baldin Romina 1291; ). creams. Santa Croce 965; 00 39 041 H Caterina 3, Mazzorbo; 00 39 041 527 GO PACKAGED the bakery does I always like to pop into Glamour 200 7786, ilgiardinodigiulia.com; 22. 2281, venissa.it; 24. l Clooney style Citalia (01293 765066, citalia.com) has l Elegant supper fab homemade boutique (Cannaregio 1298; 20), at the AMAN VENICE (Doubles from three nights at a four-star with Grand AMAN VENICE (Mains gnocchi (pumpkin bottom of the bridge. It’s tiny — about l Historic haven l East meets West £808, B&B) Canal views, from £451pp, B&B, with or potato, EAD CARTOGRAP EAD about £32) depending on the six metres square — but it has clothes PALAZZO ABADESSA (Doubles H Novecento BOUTIQUE Hotel Because: It’s a Grand Canal palace Gatwick flights. Thomas Cook City Red alert: clockwise Because: You’re in a Grand Canal season); on and accessories by small, stylish from £81, B&B) (Doubles from £120, B&B) (high ceilings, Tiepolo frescoes, Escapes (0871 8950045, thomascook. from top left, the
Fridays, baccala MAIDEN : salon, with frescoed ceilings and Italian labels. Nearby is a little bar Because: Silk wallpaper, Murano Because: You get to snuggle up in cosy, Palazzo Abadessa; mod-Asian touches) with film-star com) has three from £189pp, B&B, in mantecato chandeliers. Start, perhaps, with called Da Nini (Cannaregio 1306; 21 ), chandeliers, antique furniture, painted MAP chapel-quiet rooms close to Piazza paper-chase at glamour, where George and Amal’s a four-star, with Gatwick flights. Kirker (salt-cod pâté) burrata spread on a bed of dried which is an institution for us locals — ceilings and a glorious walled garden San Marco, amid Moroccan textiles Alberto Valese- honeymoon got off to a flying start. Holidays (020 7593 2283, kirkerholidays. Ebru; grand living tomatoes, then pan-fried turbot we sit outside sipping Spritzes, make this a palace fit for a princess (and and stained-glass windows, before at the Aman Venice; Doesn’t get more A-list than com) has three in a four-star from revved up with radicchio and Muscat watching the world go by. I used to her partner). Travel’s tip: You can get breakfast in a sunlit courtyard garden. local speciality, this. Travel’s tip: Don’t get lost in the £598pp, with Gatwick flights, water- grapes. Travel’s tip: On a mild night, come when my daughter was in her a room with a four-poster if you ask Travel’s tip: Pack light — rooms aren’t ravioli with guinea alleys in search of the back entrance taxi transfers and sightseeing tickets. kick off with a Bellini in the high- pram, and they still ask how she is! — just request on booking. Calle Priuli, huge, and wardrobe space is tight. Calle fowl and shrimps; — taxi-boat to the water-gate. Palazzo modern luxe at walled garden. Calle Tiepolo; 00 Cannaregio 4011; 00 39 041 241 3784, Dose da Ponte, San Marco 2683/84; Venissa on secluded Papadopoli, Calle Tiepolo 1364; 00 39 FURTHER INFORMATION
39 041 270 7333, aman.com; 15 . abadessa.com; 23. GETTY 4CORNERS, PHOTOGRAPHS: 00 39 041 241 3765, novecento.biz; 25. Mazzorbo island 041 270 7333, aman.com; 15 . See italia.it and visit-venice-italy.com.
130 Sunday Times Travel MARCH 2017 march 2017 Sunday Times Travel 131