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Nanay's Kusina Or Carinderia? the Perceived Lack of Filipino Restaurants in American Dining

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Nanay's Kusina Or Carinderia? the Perceived Lack of Filipino Restaurants in American Dining W&M ScholarWorks Undergraduate Honors Theses Theses, Dissertations, & Master Projects 5-2010 Nanay's Kusina or Carinderia? The Perceived Lack of Filipino Restaurants in American Dining Amanda L. Tira Andrei College of William and Mary Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarworks.wm.edu/honorstheses Part of the Anthropology Commons Recommended Citation Andrei, Amanda L. Tira, "Nanay's Kusina or Carinderia? The Perceived Lack of Filipino Restaurants in American Dining" (2010). Undergraduate Honors Theses. Paper 722. https://scholarworks.wm.edu/honorstheses/722 This Honors Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Theses, Dissertations, & Master Projects at W&M ScholarWorks. It has been accepted for inclusion in Undergraduate Honors Theses by an authorized administrator of W&M ScholarWorks. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Nanay’s Kusina or Carinderia? The Perceived Lack of Filipino Restaurants in American Dining A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirement for the degree of Bachelor of Arts in Anthropology from The College of William and Mary by Amanda L. Tira Andrei Accepted for High Honors (Honors, High Honors, Highest Honors) Brad Weiss , Director Anne Rasmussen Jonathan Glasser Williamsburg, VA April 27, 2010 Nanay’s Kusina or Carinderia? The Perceived Lack of Filipino Restaurants in American Dining Department of Anthropology College of William & Mary By Amanda L. Tira Andrei 2009-2010 Dedicated to Codin Andrei and Mercedes Tira Andrei ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to thank all the people who helped me in the creation of this thesis. Thank you to my advisors, Dr. Tomoko Hamada Connolly and Dr. Brad Weiss, for reading my multiple drafts and helping me narrow down my topic. Also thanks to Amy Besa in New York and Martin Manalansan IV in Chicago for their advice and suggestions, and Francis Tanglao- Aguas for helping me study at the Ateneo de Manila. Thank you to the Filipino American community in D.C. for their support and enthusiasm for my project, especially Jon Melegrito and Gina Inocencio. Thank you also to Evelyn Bunoan, John dela Rosa, Ligaya de Guzman, Cho Ortega, and Tita Violie. I also wish to thank my friends who helped me over the summer: Macs Smith and Morgan Coffey for testing the food and providing charm and wit to boot; Maya Dangerfield; Anne Bautista; Jason Ji; and Colton O’Connor for also driving me around and listening to all my theories and stories. Thank you to the Lapus Family— Tita Cla, Tito Bart, Joyce, Tito Carlos, and more—for housing me during my study abroad and introducing me to the dazzling world that is Filipino food. Thank you to my barkada (Anjo, Faith, Lucy, Janica, Gani, Tara, Lester, Alyx, and also Sam, Ara, Alex, and Patty) in the Philippines for eagerly taking me unofficial street food tours in Manila and Cebu. And thank you to my friends in the William & Mary Filipino American Student Association who have been supportive and interested in this project, especially April Maglalang for helping me obtain materials, and Giselle Spahr and Stacy Lewis for transcribing my interviews. I wish to thank my extended family of the Briones-Tira clan. My Tita Bing and Tito Sem gladly opened their lovely home to me while I stayed in the Philippines, and my Kuya Steve and Ate Lei helped me with adjusting to Filipino culture and getting around Quezon City. To my Manang Rea, I am so grateful for the time you spent with me, talking to me about our family and your life. Thank you to you, Kuya Ancho, and Baba for taking me into your home. Thank you to Ate Ianne who encouraged this love for food, and Tito Joy for being proud of my anthropology studies. Thank you to the rest of our Tira-Andrei family diaspora, scattered in America, Canada, Nigeria, Romania, France, and Switzerland. And of course, I wish to thank my parents, Mama and Papa, to whom I dedicate this thesis, for their encouragement, continued patience, and joy in my accomplishments. TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ....................................................................................................................................... 5 SOCIAL THEORY OF FOOD AND RESTAURANTS ......................................................................... 10 FILIPINO FOOD AND HISTORY ......................................................................................................... 15 METHODS: FINDING THE RESTAURANTS AND PROPRIETORS ............................................. 20 LOOKING EAST, LOOKING WEST ...................................................................................................... 27 ON BEING AMERICAN OR ASIAN ..................................................................................................... 32 A FEW WORDS ON “TIGHT-KNIT” .................................................................................................... 39 RECONSTRUCTION OF HOME .......................................................................................................... 43 CONCLUSION .......................................................................................................................................... 48 WORKS CITED .......................................................................................................................................... 51 APPENDIX I: GEOGRAPHY................................................................................................................... 54 APPENDIX II: PHOTOGRAPHS ............................................................................................................ 56 GLOSSARY ................................................................................................................................................. 59 INTRODUCTION Chef’s Recommendation’s 32) Menudo (Sauteed pork seasoned w/Garlic,onion,carrots,Garbanzos & potatoes) … $8.99 33) Sizzling Sisig (Filipino special comfort food) … $12.99 33) K.I Dinuguan (Chocolate Dark meat Sauteed w/ onion,garlic & Vinegar) … $11.99 34) Papaitan (Sauteed pork & beef stew in bile filipino Comfort food) … $12.99 35) Adobong Baboy (Pork cooked w/ vinegar ,garlic,onion,& bay leaves) … $8.99 36) Adobong Manok (Chicken cooked w/ vinegar ,onion,& bay leaves) … $8.99 37) Adobong Combination (chicken& pork w/ vinegar & bay leaves) … $9.99 38) Crispy Pata (deep fried seasoned pork hocks) 20 minutes waiting time … $14.99 Such were the choices when I opened the menu at Karaoke Idol, one of the first Filipino restaurants I visited in the D.C. metro area. My two friends (and “food testers”) looked through the menu tentatively, asking me how to pronounce each dish and if it was good. In comparison to their hesitance, I was giddy to see Filipino dishes like sisig and papaitan . “I didn’t even know they cooked these in America!” I exclaimed. I had just returned from spending six months in the Philippines, learning about these comfort foods and witnessing the pride Filipinos expressed when showing me dishes that used “unusual” ingredients such as bile or pig’s head. Other foods like adobong manok I knew well from my childhood when I watched my mother cook a huge pot of adobo to last us for a whole week. Still others I was curious to see prepared, such as the menudo —my mother had never used garbanzos. And some dishes I skipped completely, such as the dinuguan , because it did not please my personal palate. I did snicker at the description of “Chocolate Dark meat,” as dinuguan looks like thick chocolate pudding and is actually a stew of pig’s blood—surprise to the unwitting customer who chose that! Filipino 1 cuisine is a contentious subject within the Filipino community. In an authoritative anthology of essays and illustrations assembled by Filipino gourmets, scholars, historians, and professors, The Culinary Culture of the Philippines opens with the question: What makes Philippine cuisine Philippine? The question perhaps is a mild variant of that other, by now overwhelming, question: what makes a Filipino? (Mercado 1976, 9) Defining this national cuisine is so contentious because it is intricately tied to defining Filipino national identity. Within the Philippines, the national cuisine is adapted by region, celebrated in fiestas, consumed with gusto, and categorized in a myriad of ways that parallel the way Filipinos categorize their own identity. The topic is overwhelming in its scope, and most Filipinos have an opinion of nearly every aspect of food, whether sold by a street vendor or by an haute restaurant, found in a cookbook, or prepared from a beloved family recipe passed down by word of mouth. In this paper, I focus on Filipino restaurants in America, specifically in the Washington D.C. metropolitan area. While growing up in Northern Virginia, I often heard my mother’s friends ask each other, “Why are there no Filipino restaurants in the area?” By the time I was in high school, I had friends who would suggest having lunch at the new Vietnamese pho house or getting dinner at the new Thai restaurant. Occasionally they asked if there were any Filipino restaurants in the area, to which I would vaguely reply, “Not really. They’re too far away or don’t really taste that good.” Filipino friends in college confirmed these assessments, and our experience of eating Filipino food was relegated to our families’ cooking or Filipino American community picnics or events where the food was catered from these mysterious Filipino restaurants. 1 I choose to use the term “Filipino” instead of “Philippine” because that was the most pragmatic
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