WOLFGANG LEY’S NEW ROLE/4 CELEBRITY UNDERWEAR/10 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • October 24, 2005 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Trench Dressing

LOS ANGELES — A new day has dawned at St. John. In its first Los Angeles show under the new regime on Thursday night, the firm presented a smart, youthful collection. While knits remain the house’s bread and butter, there were also plenty of wovens, like the black trench shown here. For more on the collections, see pages 6 and 7.

Hilfiger in Five Years: Firm Said to Forecast Wholesale Will Halve By Jean Palmieri NEW YORK — The long-term picture for the U.S. wholesale business at Tommy Hilfiger Corp. isn’t a pretty one. Meanwhile, the chances of Hilfiger being acquired by Wal-Mart Stores Inc. no longer seems so far-fetched; one investment banker pegged them at “50-50.” According to investment sources who have seen the company’s offering memorandum, Hilfiger is projecting that U.S. wholesale sales will drop by more than half, to just more than $400 million, by fiscal year 2009, from just under $900 million in fiscal year 2004. See Tommy, Page50 PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY

4 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005 WWD.COM Escada’s Ley Ready for New Role By Marc Karimzadeh plans to add stores in the U.S. WWDMONDAY Instead, Ley said the plan is to NEW YORK — “On Jan. 31, they utilize the existing stores bet- Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear fire me,” Wolfgang Ley, Escada’s ter. The Fifth Avenue flagship, founder and chief executive of- for instance, has recently been FASHION ficer of Escada AG, joked, sit- refurbished to give it a softer, Los Angeles Fashion Week finished with a crescendo, as designers danced ting in the company’s Fifth more inviting feel, and a better 6 through the decades, riffed fantastic themes and recalled bygone years. Avenue flagship. layout with a prominent acces- Ley, of course, was referring sories display on the main floor. to the day next year when he of- The American market ac- GENERAL ficially steps down from his post counts for 20 percent of Long-term prospects are difficult for Tommy Hilfiger’s wholesale business, and passes the baton to Frank Escada’s total sales. The com- 1 said investment sources who have seen its offering memorandum. Rheinboldt, who is the ceo of pany’s fiscal year ends Oct. 31. Wolfgang Ley, Escada AG’s founder and chief executive officer, talks about Escada Group’s Primera AG. In fiscal 2004, the group’s core 4 stepping down from his post and his new role of creative chairman. Ley, who founded Escada in Wolfgang Ley Escada business had sales of 1976 with his late wife, 413 million euros, or $493.5 mil- Jennifer Aniston and Oscar de la Renta were among the celebrities who turned Margaretha, isn’t saying auf company just as well. lion at current exchange rates. 8 out for the Couture Cares luncheon, benefiting the Revlon/UCLA Breast Center. Wiedersehen to the company, “I thought, ‘What is the “The business in America has Booming sales in outdoor apparel spurred VF Corp. to double-digit earnings though. On Feb. 1, he will assume biggest gap in the company?’” been very good,” Ley said, 10 gains for the third-quarter and nine-month periods. the role of creative chairman for he said. “I know the DNA of the adding that Escada’s own stores the group, an ambassadorial role brand and I have built most of are up by 20 percent. “Wholesale Classified Advertisements ...... 52-55 that will still require his involve- the markets. I can support the is good, too.” ment in the brand’s overall de- brand with my know-how of dif- Ley was in New York last To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is velopment and public image. ferent cultures.” week to launch an ADR [email protected], using the individual’s name. “I am in charge of building He added that he will also (American Depository Receipts) WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 new collections, influencing the work more closely on develop- program with the Bank of New FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 190, NO. 88. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one store layout and store design, ing the advertising campaigns, York. ADRs enable U.S. in- additional issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional scouting the world for new de- pointing to the spring ads, vestors to buy a small fraction of issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. sign talents, especially in which were photographed by shares in companies not listed Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Russia, India and China, and Steven Meisel with 12 images here. Escada’s shares are sold Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice making sure that the message featuring Linda Evangelista. through the Frankfurt and President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice of the brand is consistent,” Ley “I can contribute much more Munich stock exchanges. Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. said of his new responsibilities. to the success of Escada if I “There are many American Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: The change, he said, was vol- stayed on like this,” he said. “No retail stores who can’t buy DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box untary. “I was 67 years old, and other company can free its ceo European shares in the U.S. be- 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE at the beginning of January, I and founder of his daily obliga- cause they are under SEC laws,” INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed was sitting in my office, think- tions just like that. Today, with Ley said. “We are a global on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. ing, ‘I have a contract until 2008 corporate governance in brand. Lots of consumers want All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and as ceo.’ I wanted to initiate the Germany, 80 percent of your time to buy shares. It’s a good market- production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint recruitment process.’” is spent in conference rooms. But ing tool, and it gives the compa- requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Instead of going to head- in rtw, you have to be in the mar- ny good exposure domestically.” Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to hunters, Ley created his own ket every day. You have to see Ley, who would typically receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615- matrix of potential candidates what is going on, to listen to the come to New York twice a year 5008 or call 800-289-0273. and their characteristics, from stores. You have to travel, and for market, plans to spend more WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND ready-to-wear experience, entre- understand where the future is.” time here in the future for per- TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART preneurial skills, experience of Escada, once one of the most sonal appearances and fashion WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE branded goods and international profitable European fashion shows and to meet with the staff. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. retail experience. Rheinboldt, houses, faced its challenges in He also plans to devote more who had successfully turned the Nineties, and Ley conceded time to growing the company in around Escada’s Primera busi- that one of the biggest mistakes Russia, China and Southeast MONDAY: New York Spring II Apparel Market ness, which includes the Laurèl, the company made was to go Asia, and there are plans to open (through Nov. 4). Apriori and Cavita collections as public, forcing it to diversify. more stores in places such as Reebok International reports on third-quarter well as the Biba retail chain, Many of the investments turned Bangkok, Malaysia and Vietnam. sales and earnings. came out with most of the checks out to be unsuccessful. Ley said helping build against his name. But lately, the business ap- Escada’s accessories business TUESDAY: The Conference Board releases the “From an operating point, pears to have turned around. In is one of his personal chal- Consumer Confidence report for October. the company is profitable. We the U.S., Escada operates 17 lenges. Currently, it accounts Coach Inc. reports first-quarter sales and earnings. are growing,” Ley said, when stores, and wholesales to for about 5 percent of the com- Workshop Tokyo (through Thursday). asked why he didn’t wait out his Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth pany’s total business. “We want Lineapelle, Bologna, Italy (through Thursday). term as ceo. And anyway, he Avenue and about 35 specialty to make accessories as impor- feels his new role will serve the doors. There are currently no tant as fashion,” he said. WEDNESDAY: Jones Apparel Group, Cache Inc. and Wellman Inc. report third-quarter sales and earnings. The Estée Lauder Cos. reports first-quarter sales and earnings. Andean Trade Talks Progressing THURSDAY: Dallas Market Center Apparel & Accessories Market and Fashion Industry Gallery, WASHINGTON — Negotiations for scheduled in the Washington area the countries would complicate Dallas (through Sunday). an Andean free-trade agreement the week of Nov. 14. the timetable. Intertextile Shanghai (through Saturday). are moving forward, though key Trade officials met here last For the year ending Aug. 31, Liz Claiborne Inc., Kenneth Cole Productions, details in the apparel and textile week to take stock of the discus- apparel and textile imports Russell Corp. and J. Jill Group report third-quarter COMING THIS WEEK area still need to be worked out. sions, which face a key window from the Andean countries, in- sales and earnings. An accord would remove trade of opportunity in November. cluding Bolivia, rose 2.4 percent Bebe Stores reports first-quarter sales and earnings. barriers among the U.S., Peru, After Thanksgiving, a World to 285.9 million square meter Colombia and Ecuador. Bolivia Trade Organization meeting to equivalents, worth $1.48 billion. FRIDAY: Avon Products reports third-quarter sales has been observing the talks, but move along global trade talks A U.S. trade official, speak- and earnings. is not yet a party to them. The will require even more atten- ing on condition of anonymity, next round of negotiations is tion, and elections in some of said a deal might be reached next month. “We think it’s possible, but we’re not making predictions,” In Brief Private Label Handbags the official said. “Within the tex- tile area, we’ve closed out and High quality straw reached agreement on things like ● G2 GETS CACHE: G2 New York has been awarded the advertis- and fabrics the customs cooperation aspect, ing account for Caché Inc., the New York-based women’s fashion so really the main remaining as- retailer. G2 is a partner company of Grey Global Group, part of ad- Competitive pricing pect relates to the rules of origin vertising agency WPP. Caché operates 291 stores, as well as an on- Low minimums and finalizing the tariff frame- line store at cache.com. Plans call for the development of a new work. We’re not there yet, but in- marketing program, including brand positioning, print, online, Samples made in 2 weeks tensive talks are continuing.” out-of-home advertising and direct mail. The branding initiative Have you been gloved yet? Rules of origin regulate the will be launched nationally in March. According to Nielsen content and production of Monitor-Plus, Caché’s account was estimated at $5 million last Call 203-966-5611 goods. year. G2 declined comment on Caché’s current ad budget. 212.869.2143 — Evan Clark WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005 5 WWD.COM Bundles of Edun’s denim jeans. Stüssy Settles Logo Parody Suit By Adam Tschorn he said. “I had to ask myself whether I wanted to spend a lot of time and money — which I wasn’t LOS ANGELES — Stüssy Inc. said it has settled afraid to do — or put this behind me and move a lawsuit against Fresh Jive Manufacturing, along. We finally got to a point in negotiations based here, for using a graffiti-style logo Stüssy where they came to the table with a more reason- said infringed on its registered trademark. able offer, so I’m going to put it behind me.” The logo is a spray-paint-style squiggle spell- The complaint, which Stüssy, of Irvine, Calif., ing out the name “Stüssy” that has been regis- filed in December 2004 in U.S. District Court, tered with the U.S. Patent and Trademark accused Fresh Jive of trademark infringement, Office and used by Stüssy since 1997, according injury to business reputation, false representa- to court documents. It was among the designs in tion and unfair competition. The company Fresh Jive’s spring 2005 “Mad Parody Series” T- sought unspecified damages, restraint of Fresh shirts, along with the logos of Quiksilver, Volcom Jive’s use of the design, and the destruction of and Obey. Fresh Jive’s version, rendered in a all merchandise, packaging and labels bearing similar style, spelled out the word “Juicy.” the disputed design. “Fresh Jive has agreed to recall the product, Klotz said he had intended the shirts to serve give the products in question to charity, not use as a commentary on the label-driven streetwear the design in the future and not to copy our industry and, as such, protected as parody. other trademarks,” said John Sommer, Stüssy’s Stüssy argued that the likeness probably would general counsel. confuse consumers. Rick Klotz, Fresh Jive’s founder and presi- Klotz declined to say how many of the $20 shirts The Land of Edun dent, confirmed the terms of the settlement. had been sold since they hit retail shelves in April, NEW YORK — A voice of fashion’s social conscience spoke up on “There was an opening to come to an agreement,’’ but characterized the series as “very popular.” Thursday afternoon when designers Ali Hewson and Rogan Gregory previewed their spring Edun collection downtown. With friends Lou Reed and Minnie Driver on hand to help cele- brate, Hewson and Gregory — with plenty of input from Hewson’s husband, Bono, and their teenage daughters, Jordan and Eve — Cooper-Hewitt Heralds Top-Notch Design worked a louche, laid-back attitude rendered in whispery pale chiffon tops and beat-up denim. Except for a bright yellow coat, By Rosemary Feitelberg André earthy florals and subtle men’s wear patterns reigned. Balazs Hewson said she was pleased that the Edun customer seems to NEW YORK — Good design is easy to spot, but and be getting the label’s mission: bringing trade, as opposed to just tricky to define, and no one knows that better Martha aid, to the developing world, “to help deliver the fishing rod than those who attended Thursday’s Cooper- Stewart rather than the fish,” according to a company statement. Hewitt National Design Awards. “People want to know what they’re putting on their bodies,” Before the festivities were in full swing, a Hewson said, “and these clothes have a good story behind them.” few design heavyweights tackled the question, Manufactured in Africa, South America and India, the collection “What constitutes good design?” “Anything that is available at select American stores, including Barneys New York, is not vulgar,” said Massimo Vignelli. Saks Fifth Avenue, Steven Alan, Ron Herman at Fred Segal and, Saks Fifth Avenue chairman and chief exec- new for spring, Nordstrom. The clothes wholesale at $22 to $160 for utive officer Fred Wilson wasn’t about to single T-shirts and blouses, $65 for jeans and $160 for outerwear. out any favorite nominees, but described good Hewson and Gregory discussed future growth, including the design as “things that are aesthetically pleasing, possibility of an ad campaign and freestanding stores. “That’s a practical, enduring and emotional.” natural progression for us,” said Gregory. “It’s the best way to ex- With one arm around architect Tod Williams press a brand.” Don’t expect a fancy, flashy runway show, though. and the other around Vignelli, Richard Meier “We’re going to do a mixture of things,” said Hewson, hinting that said, “Good design is having all these people in a more civilized, party-like presentation may be in the works. “We this room tonight.” don’t want to be tied down to any one thing.” Interestingly, some of the biggest crowd- — Nandini D’Souza pleasers were not from the design world. Tom Brokaw — having kayaked in Russia, climbed Flirty spring looks from Edun. Mount Rainier and fished in the North Arctic has always worked so well for us. If there is one Circle with Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard design award I’ve always wanted, it was the — wasn’t above giving a friendly plug for his [National] Design Award.” pal’s new book, “Let My People Go Surfing,” Afterward, Reed Krakoff, president and cre- about how to run a successful business in an ative director of Coach, the evening’s sponsor, unconventional way. Patagonia, which won the said he was pleased to see the Toledos win. corporate achievement award, donates 1 per- “They’re people who have a pretty small busi- cent of its annual sales to organizations that ness, which a lot of times precludes people from help protect the environment. getting credit.” Chouinard said, “We have a belief at Pata- Another contender in the fashion category, gonia that a product is perfect when you can’t Project Alabama designer Natalie Chenin, said, take anything else away. So I will be brief and “For me and for all the ladies in Alabama, this is thank you.” an honor to have the design world look at what Perhaps no one was more pleased to win than we are doing. For the artisans, especially, this is fashion honorees Isabel and Ruben Toledo, the very empowering.” husband-and-wife design team behind Toledo Lifetime Achievement Award-winner Eva Studio. As soon as presenter Simon Doonan Zeisel, who created 100,000 designs in her 75- mentioned he met the winners when Diana year career, capped off the night. “Let me give Vreeland ran the Costume Institute in the you some advice. First of all, have a very good Eighties, Ruben Toledo leapt up from a table to time producing things which you copy from your embrace his wide-eyed wife. “I am the happiest head,” said the now-visually impaired Zeisel, woman in the world right now,” said Isabel using her hands to trace the shapely ceramics Lou Reed and Edun co-designer Ali Hewson. Toledo, choking back tears. “Thirty-one years she is known for. “Are you watching me?” ago, we started doing this, and it gives us life. Motioning toward Zeisel, Balazs said, “That’s The designing and fashion and the chaos of it all design.”

Ruben and Eva Zeisel Isabel Toledo PHOTOS COURTESY OF PATRICK MCMULLAN OF PATRICK PHOTOS COURTESY PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY 6 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005

ShowtimeLos Angeles closed out fashion week with Hollywood charm. Presenting wearable looks, designers danced through the decades, riffed off fantastical themes and recalled years gone by.

St. John: Despite the rumors, Angelina Jolie didn’t appear. But the clothes were news enough at St. John’s Thursday night show. The firm declared its intent to attract a new generation of customers while not straying too far from its traditional clientele. There were finer, lighter knits than usual, such as a candy-striped bolero and an earth-toned poncho over swim briefs, and even the heavy gold buttons were gone in favor of a lighter, sexier look, such as gold-rimmed, pearlized buttons on skinny, double-pocket suit jackets. And the strapless black gown had just enough sparkle, eschewing the heavy paillette coverage of yesteryear. The company showed woven separates for the first time: tailored safari shirts, a cotton shirtdress and a trenchcoat shown in cotton khaki or black or olive taffeta that had retailers and customers pining for their own after the show. Oddly, despite the success of the show, designer Tim Gardner, who has been consulting with St. John and was responsible for its latest look, didn’t take a bow. Asked about Gardner’s fate with the company, chief executive officer Richard Cohen only indicated that a “brand new” designer will be announced in a month. In support of Cohen, his friend, Domenico de Sole, flew in from New York with his wife and daughter. And Kelly Gray — the sole representative from the family — thoroughly enjoyed the show and her moment in the front-row spotlight. “It’s refreshing,” she said. “It makes me remember what clothes are like. I’ve been living in Gap for the last few months, riding my horses and ballroom dancing.” As for the rush of reporters clamoring to speak to her, she said, “I never got this much attention at one of my shows.”

Bradley Bayou: There was something for everyone on Bradley Bayou’s spring runway. Among the 24 made-to-measure looks, Bayou let his inspiration Petro zigzag through decades and sensibilities, from a

▲ St. John Zillia frothy Fifties party dress with Swarovski crystals along the waist, to a fierce Matrix-like black gown with a leather corseted bodice. Dizzying, indeed, but Bayou made the wide variety worthwhile, with superluxe fabrics and perfect tailoring (he hired some of Galanos’s former team). Made-to-measure certainly speaks to a rarefied clientele, but Bayou is looking to expand his audience: After the show, the designer announced the launch of a leather and sweater collection called Bradley, which bowed on QVC on Saturday.

Petro Zillia: Designer Nony Tochterman has always divined her own quirky Wonderland, and for her part in Walt Disney’s new “Alice” fashion program — a multicategory, multidesigner collection — she presented clothes that certainly seemed wearable if you took away the heavy makeup and styling. Against a backdrop of humongous mushrooms and flowers, there were pretty white cotton dresses with floral summer coats, a knife-pleat striped skirt with a green chiffon halter trimmed in same-fabric roses and a patchwork-print rib- knit cardigan along with Tweedle twins-type high-waisted pants.

Sue Wong: Sue Wong began her spring show with typical over- the-top theatrics — a Brazilian dancer in a gigantic orange headdress shimmying her way down the runway accompanied by two percussionists. But while in past seasons such an opener would likely have set the tone for the excess to follow, here Wong toned things down to strong effect. Bright, Tibetan-inspired day dresses in baby-doll and sundress silhouettes looked youthful and vibrant and featured simple mirror and embroidery detail. But Wong’s heavy styling showed up in some numbers, such as the floral disaster of a gown with matching parasol and hat. Yana K: The parade of Seventies-looking sirens Saja: Childhood memories and girlish fancy set the mood for Yoo Lee’s at Yana K wore sexy, spring Saja collection. The designer hit the right notes with cotton high-waisted trousers baby-doll dresses, pastel-colored striped suits and white knee-high and fluorescent go-go stockings — clothes that recalled years gone by, but still felt wearable, dresses, making for a thanks to beautiful, fitted tailoring and pretty pale colors. Yoo also fun, ultrafeminine incorporated subtle details, such as covered buttons and delicate collection. At times, beading. A soft yellow, flapper-style camisole paired with relaxed beige though, the looks metallic linen walking shorts could have been found in grandma’s seemed random, as in attic, for instance, but Lee made the combo look right at home on the the embroidered silk runway. However, several solid chiffon column gowns in a rainbow of cheongsam. colors, from aqua to tangerine, felt repetitive. Sue Wong Saja WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005 7 WWD.COM

Bradley Bayou los Fashion Scoops actor wears Armani throughout the film, angeles and his co-star, Claire Danes, has a Cinderella moment in the Rodeo Drive boutique. Those watching closely also will spot several Armani Casa items in Martin’s character’s postmodern pad: a sterling silver tea set, three tables and a leather chaise. Lastly, the house’s cosmetics line gets a close-up as cameras pan through Saks Fifth Avenue’s makeup department. To drive the point home, film stills and selected wardrobes from the movie will be on display in the boutique’s ▲ Tom Ford at the PEEPING TOM: windows this week. Silmo trade fair and A vodka tonic one of his signature in hand, his BAG IT: Speculation is heating up in

frames. ▲ shirt Europe that Compagnie Financière unbuttoned Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that down to owns Cartier, Chloé, Piaget, Van Cleef & there, Tom Arpels and Montblanc, among others, Ford was wants to sell Lancel, the French leather St. John surely the goods firm it purchased eight years ago. most Reached Friday, a spokeswoman for the photographed and in-demand person luxury conglomerate declined to comment. Friday at the giant Silmo eyewear trade But Richemont boss Johann Rupert has show in Paris. There to launch his been streamlining the firm’s portfolio. Last signature eyewear collection with Italy’s June, he unloaded the Hackett men’s Marcolin Group, Ford welcomed a steady business. Together, Dunhill and Lancel stream of editors and well-wishers, and last year lost 40 million euros, or $48 encountered forests of outstretched cell million at current exchange. phone cameras whenever he emerged from the dark, velvet-lined booth. “I don’t TOO COOL FOR SCHOOL: Thursday’s book smile,” he said, teasing them. Turns out launch for Australian denim label Tsubi at Ford’s debut collection of 23 oversized the Chateau Marmont drew the honor roll styles are somewhat autobiographical. of Hollywood starlets and fashion insiders, Although styles named Farrah and Ryan including Selma Blair, Mena Suvari, Jeremy refer to Seventies style icons Farrah Scott, Alexandra von Furstenberg and Fawcett and Ryan O’Neal, other eyeglasses Costello Tagliapietra’s Jeff Costello and hit closer to home: the Whitney, named Robert Tagliapietra. after his longtime assistant, Whitney Mary-Kate Olsen, Bromberg; the Buckley, named after his who recently longtime companion, editor Richard dropped out of Buckley, and the Falconer, after Ford’s first New York boyfriend. And might he have a little University, came something for the business tycoon? Of with her twin course: the De Sole, named after his sister, Ashley, who longtime business partner, former Gucci is still in school. Group honcho Domenico De Sole. “It’s the Lindsay Lohan Bradley most classic of them all,” Ford explained. swung her long red Bayou “He hasn’t even had a chance to see it. I mane as she miss him.” gyrated to Guns N’ Carolina Roses’ “Sweet ▲ Mary- Short Takes From L.A. SIGNED, Herrera Child O’ Mine” in SEALED, a Pucci minidress. Kate DELIVERED: The sixth-floor and Carolina suite overlooking Ashley Herrera added Sunset Boulevard Olsen to Los was packed with and Angeles’ gold-colored Lindsay Lohan. fashion mix books, simply ▲ last week as called “Tsubi Book she blew into 2000-2005,” that town Tuesday chronicled the to tape an history of the Oct. 29 renegade label segment for owned by George “Larry King Gorrow and Dan

Live.” “I get MCMULLAN CO. KEENAN/PATRICK STEFANIE PHOTO BY Single. Angelenos

horribly nervous on camera, but he knows can look forward to WIREIMAGE PHOTOS BY how to ask all the right questions to put more of these raucous parties after Gorrow you at ease,” said the designer, who signed and Single move to Los Angeles from copies of her Assouline book Thursday Sydney next spring. “We hit the ceiling at night at Nathan Turner in West Hollywood. home,” said Single, who was squeezed into “The more my eyes go, the bigger the the company’s skinny, tapered pants signature gets,” she joked. Herrera also printed with black and white triangles. “It’s found time to lunch with Nancy Reagan and about time to get another adventure.” do some shopping on Melrose Place. DONNA HEADS WEST: Donna Karan hasn’t CINEMA VERITE: Giorgio Armani’s latest had a fashion show in Los Angeles for celluloid collaboration is Steve Martin’s eight years, but that’s set to change on “Shopgirl,” which opened Friday. The Nov. 15 when the designer stages a Anthony Franco: Eduardo Lucero: Desanka: There’s Sheri Bodell: Flesh was Oligo Tissew by A scene from “Shopgirl.” reprise of her spring show at Neiman Making a jump from The designer something to be said the order of the day at Kristopher Enuke: Marcus in Beverly Hills. The show is part costume design back showed decidedly for clothes that are Sheri Bodell, from her Kristopher of a benefit luncheon with all proceeds into ready-to-wear, Seventies- both trendy and color palette to front- Enuke showed a helping Step Up Women’s Network. Anthony Franco inspired gowns, distinctive. Desanka row guest Tommy Lee lineup of navy Karan has been a longtime supporter of showed a collection blouses and Fasiska worked both and his barely dressed and black linen the charity, which raises money for that mixed palazzo pants, elements with groupies. As for the trenches with women’s issues. It wouldn’t be a Los wonderfully tailored along with some slouchy dresses and clothes, there were mandarin-style Angeles luncheon without a smattering tuxedos and suits with seriously sexy draped cargo skirts, flirty silk dresses and collars, and his of Tinseltown glamour: Teri Hatcher, Vegas showgirl-esque swimwear in but she could have shorts suits detailed signature star- Anjelica Huston, Debra Messing, Mena dresses that were eveningwear done without the with fringe, embroidery pocket jeans, Suvari, Jessica Alba and Connie Nielsen

downright gaudy. fabrics. pile-it-on styling. or metal rings. this time in red. SAM EMERSON/COPYRIGHT 2005 PHOTO BY PICTURES DISTRIBUTION BUENA VISTA INC. ENTERTAINMENT AND HYDE PARK will be the luncheon hosts. PHOTOS SARDELLA AND DONATO MIRANDA MAESTRI, DOMINIQUE MAITRE, MAURICIO GIANNONI, DAVIDE GIOVANNI BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005 WWD.COM Oscar Winners BEVERLY HILLS — Sightseers got an eyeful Thursday as their Hollywood tour bus made its way up Carolwood Drive: an elusive Jennifer Aniston bidding farewell to eye® Reese Witherspoon before she hopped into a car. Aniston was on hand to serve as honorary co-chair, with Oscar de la Renta, of the first annual Couture Cares luncheon, benefiting the Revlon/UCLA Breast Center. De la Renta’s entire spring 2006 runway show, models and all, was transported to Colleen and Bradley Bell’s lush estate for the occasion, which drew 350 guests, including Brittany Murphy, Rose McGowan, Calista Flockhart, Lilly Tartikoff, Tory Burch, Alexandra von Furstenberg, Allison Sarofim and Vanessa Getty. “It’s all gorgeous, gorgeous!” breathed Witherspoon as the gowns floated by. The designer was clearly tickled by his company, decreeing Aniston “the sweetest, kindest woman,” and Witherspoon “adorable.” After lunch, event co-chairs Crystal Lourd and Stephanie Murray corralled ladies into the Bells’ enormous ballroom for a trunk show, where Jacqui Getty bought an entire rack full of clothes, squealing, “I feel like Cinderella!” A few hours later, events took a more casual turn as de la Renta donned cream trousers and the ladies changed into jeans for an intimate dinner at Jeff Klein’s Tower Bar restaurant, which was teeming with fashion types. Alberta Ferretti entertained Lucy Liu, Lisa Eisner and Cornelia Guest at one table, while Katie Ford and the young turks of Ford Models held their own soiree at another. Mischa Barton arrived late and squeezed in next to her host, who, like the gentleman he is, offered her some of his French fries. Jamie Tisch conspired to set the starlet up with her 18-year-old stepson. “This has been a wonderful day,” concluded de la Renta, who’s hunting for a permanent retail home in Los Angeles. “I’m in love Reese with all the women here, especially those who wear my dresses.” Oscar de la Witherspoonitherspoon Oscar de la Renta with inin OscarOscar dede Renta with Jennifer lala Renta.Renta. Jennifer Aniston in a Prada top and Chloé pants.

Brittany Calista Murphy in Flockhart Alberta Ferretti with Rose McGowan in Dolce & Gabbana.

Crystal LLoourdurd in Lisa Eisner, Oscar de Jacqui Getty and lala Renta.Renta. Bridget Romanek.

NEW YORK — Oenophiles take note: That $125 Metrokane Rabbit sterling corkscrew might not be the long-term investment you thought it was. For the last few years, some respected winemakers have been quietly moving toward replacing corks with admittedly less chic screw tops (the argument goes that bad corks can ruin 6 to 10 percent of total product, whereas screw tops are guaranteed to keep the wine as fresh as the day it was bottled). The latest, and perhaps most heralded, conversion comes out of New Zealand. Beginning this month, the acclaimed Cloudy Bay winery is offering its 2005 Sauvignon Blanc in screw top. The winemaker officially switched over all of its bottling from cork to screw top in 2004, but the 2005 Sauvignon Blanc is the first to enter the American market as such (next fall, the 2004 Pinot Noir will be available in screw top). Senior winemaker Eveline Fraser warns drinkers that, contrary to initial instinct, there is a proper way to open a screw top, and it’s not the same as opening a bottle of soda. The torque needs to be different. “You can’t hold it at the skirt,” she instructs, referring to the aluminum that surrounds the bottle neck. “You have to get it from the bottom, like this,” she says, positioning her hand at the base of the bottle as if she was a sommelier presenting the wine. One twist and it’s off. Fraser is pleased with the vintage, and optimistic about the screw top’s future. “Good corks are The Cloudy Bay vineyards in great,” she says, “but nobody knows until you open the wine if it’s a good cork.” Gwen McCaw and Colleen Marlborough, New Zealand. Gwen McCaw and Colleen — Emily Holt

Bell in Oscar de la Renta. Up Screwed DE LA RENTA PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY DE LA RENTA WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005 9 WWD.COM Accessories Report

CHANGING LANES: EYE TO EYE: Badgley Mischka keeps expanding its accessories assortment. The latest addition is Neil Lane may be eyewear, in collaboration with Sheila Vance of Sama Eyewear, which Mark Badgley and James FINDINGS used to Mischka viewed for the first time last month at the Sama Beverly Hills boutique. accessorizing the Hollywood set with his “We tried to make sure that all the elements that make a woman feminine were represented diamond creations, but now he is going to in the frames,” said Mischka, as he carefully handled a pair with a gray pearl at the temple, get better acquainted with the lovely then another with bows on either side printed with the rose pattern from the spring ready-to- ladies of New York. wear collection. The Los Angeles jeweler, who was in Other details are as intricate and luxe, down to the flawless diamonds embellishing one Manhattan on Wednesday for an event style or the carefully chosen feathers laminated in the temples on another, which Vance called celebrating the debut of his signature “the masterpiece.” collection exclusive to Saks Fifth Avenue, The line is scheduled for a February sponsored by Saks and W Magazine, WWD’s Badgley release, and is split between a group retailing PHOTO BY DJAMILLA ROSA COCHRAN/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY sister title, said he’s had fans on both Mischka at about $165 and another group that starts coasts, but never a good retail opportunity sunglasses. at $2,000. outside of his salon on Beverly Boulevard. But the biggest surprise is the minimalist “I don’t know New York women men’s capsule collection, with wood or shiny enough yet, and this a great chance to do steel temples. that,” said Lane. “But when it comes to “We’ve always wanted to do men’s,” Badgley jewelry, I suspect most women are the said, “and with frames, the customer is a little same. Jewelry is fun, it’s glamorous.” more flexible when it comes to the brand.” The party drew an intimate crowd of 250, including comedian Sandra A RACE TO THE FINISH: French luxury cuff link and accessories maker Bernhard and singer Ashanti, at the Saks B.R.M., short for Bernard Richard Mfg., is introducing to the U.S. flagship. The collection, with prices that Neil Lane and Saks market its handmade luxury watches featuring bold, sporty start at $8,500, eventually will be chairman and ceo styling and materials often used to build race cars. extended to other key Saks doors. Fred Wilson. “It’s for people who love sport watches, cars and motorcycles,” said Frédéric Gasser, who heads B.R.M. HEAVENS ABOVE: When it comes to presenting a high jewelry North America. collection inspired by the wonders of the cosmos, not just The watches, which were launched in May 2004 in Paris, any showcase will do. This is why Chanel worked with fine feature titanium and carbon fiber cases and faces topped by artist Xavier Veilhan to create original artwork in which to a strong makalon plastic. Bands are constructed from exhibit its new Eléments Céleste one-of-a-kind jewels for its crocodile, rubber or leather, and some of them feature traveling Collection Privée. checkered-flag styling. The exhibit, featuring 16 diamond pieces ranging in price The watches have Swiss-made movements, but B.R.M. is B.R.M.’s from $32,000 to $780,000, will arrive in New York at finalizing its own mechanism that will be made in France, Gasser ladies’ 9 West 57th Street tonight, following stops in Paris and noted. There also are plans to introduce precious metals in watch. Tokyo. After a private kick-off party, it will be opened to the November, which will raise the prices of the watches to $70,000.They public, free, Oct. 26-Nov. 5. currently retail from $3,650 to $16,250. B.R.M. has 30 accounts in Europe and is seeking 20 to 25 stores in the U.S., Gasser said. A necklace from Chanel’s new He expects to sell 500 to 1,000 watches the first year Stateside. One of the first orders came Eléments Céleste collection. from Neiman Marcus Direct, which selected a style for its 2005 Christmas Book catalogue.

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Get one year of wwd.com for $99. To subscribe, go to wwd.com/subscribe. 10 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Celebrity Corsets for a Cause

By Karyn Monget Susan Elisha Sarandon’s Cuthbert’s NEW YORK — Academy Award-nominated actress sexy corset romantic Julianne Moore will host the third annual Frederick’s of with garters. lace corset. Hollywood Lingerie Art Auction in Los Angeles at the re- tailer’s new flagship on Thursday. Linda LoRe, president and chief executive officer of Frederick’s, said the benefit follows “two hugely success- ful” events in 2003 and 2004, which together drew some 100 celebrities and raised more than $140,000 for a vari- ety of causes. The donations were raised through silent and live auctions and included online bidding access to the fredericksofhollywood.com Web site. This year’s event will be a two-night affair: a formal fashion show of Frederick’s lingerie and five celebrity- designed corsets will be staged Wednesday at the Avalon nightclub, where 700 guests are expected to attend. The Thursday event will feature an auction for 250 guests and will take place at the new store at Hollywood and Highland Avenues near Grauman’s Chinese Theater and the Kodak Theater. LoRe said there would be about 40 celebrity-designed corsets from the likes of Nicole Kidman, Charlize Theron, Susan Sarandon, Tea Leoni, Jessica Alba, Melanie Griffith, Sela Ward, Teri Hatcher, Keira Knightley and Tori Amos, and from at least two men, ac- tors Patrick Dempsey and Alan Cumming. Sela Ward’s Teri The corsets and a design kit are provided by creation. Hatcher’s Frederick’s to celebrities to create a one-of-a-kind item beaded that can be worn as an undergarment or as ready-to-wear. style. This year’s silent and live auctions will benefit the Tuberous Sclerosis Alliance, a cause that is “near to Moore’s heart,” said LoRe. LoRe noted that 100 percent of the proceeds of auc- tion sales will be donated to the TS Alliance and 20 per- cent of sales conducted at the flagship on Thursday will also be donated to the charity. Moore said, “I have participated as a [corset] designer for the last two years with event chairs Tea Leoni and Susan Sarandon, and it was always fun, a little silly, and brings real public awareness to needy causes. For TS, the need to raise awareness is still high. Many people have never heard of tuberous sclerosis, a genetic disease that is as common as cystic fibrosis. If auctioning off celebrity corsets brings more attention to this devastating disease,

I’m all for it.” TYLER BOYE PHOTOS BY

Retailers are also anticipating the effects of mounting macroeconomic pressures on their customers. Without naming Kmart or Sears specifically, McDonald said Outdoor Segment Boosts VF’s Quarter some key retail customers had shifted their focus to hard goods in an effort to avoid a potential slide in apparel purchasing. Rising energy prices and early warnings re- By Ross Tucker garding high home heating bills this winter are expected to affect buying habits. NEW YORK — Booming sales in outdoor apparel spurred VF Corp. to double-digit “It’s more of a strategic change from some of our retailers,” said McDonald. “I earnings gains for the third-quarter and nine-month periods. think we’re seeing more substantial moves from one category to another.” The strong results were achieved despite sales declines in the company’s jean- As a result, retailers have lowered their inventory levels. McDonald said VF has swear segment, its oldest and largest business, which includes denim stalwarts Lee moved quickly to reduce production to avoid creating a situation in which heavy and Wrangler. Mackey McDonald, president and chief executive officer of the markdowns would be necessary to clear excess goods. The company intends to end Greensboro, N.C., apparel giant, said during a conference call with analysts that the the year with inventory levels about even with last year’s. McDonald believes re- earnings gains proved the company’s commitment to building a portfolio of lifestyle tailers will eventually bring their apparel inventories back up. However, momen- brands was effective. tum will likely take a hit. “I think you can certainly see the story of VF now has become a transformation “We’re not sure the energy costs are going to allow the consumer to come back in to higher-growth lifestyle brands, which is allowing us to maintain solid perform- very strong,” said McDonald. ance even when our higher-margin core businesses are going through some of the Wrangler has buoyed the company’s jeanswear segment, said Wiseman, adding, fluctuations that are common to the apparel business,” said McDonald. “Our Wrangler brand remains a powerhouse, the number-one national brand by far For the three months ended Oct. 1, earnings rose 17 percent to $181.9 million, or $1.59 in discount stores, both in units and dollar sales.” a diluted share, outpacing Wall Street analysts’ estimates of $1.56 a share. Earnings for The North Face brand continued to be the sales driver in outdoor apparel and the corresponding period last year came in at $155.4 million, or $1.38 a share, weighed equipment, the company’s second-largest segment, where sales rose 13.9 percent to down by a $15 million charge related to the sale of VF’s playwear segment. $520.8 million from $457.1 million. North Face sales were up 23 percent for the Sales for the quarter were essentially flat, inching up 0.6 percent to $1.8 billion. quarter, with comparable-store sales up 17 percent. That momentum is expected to “While sales hit a record in the quarter, we are not satisfied with the current continue, as the company indicated orders for spring are already up 30 percent. rate of sales growth and we do not think that it is indicative of the growth potential The company’s intimate apparel segment, which includes Vanity Fair, Vassarette of this portfolio,” said McDonald. and Bestform, continued to struggle as sales fell 9.1 percent to $213.3 million from Declining jeanswear sales were attributed to a weak domestic market and the $234.6 million. Wiseman admitted the segment’s product launches at department effects of retail consolidation. Jeanswear sales slid 3.5 percent to $688.5 million and chain stores had “missed the mark.” However, management is expecting comps from $713.9 million in the year-ago period. to rise for the fourth quarter and believes the business will regain ground in 2006. “It should be no surprise to anyone that our jeanswear was not exempt from the Imagewear sales rose 5.3 percent to $202.8 million from $192.5 million, driven by challenging external environment during the important back-to-school season,” the January acquisition of Holoubek, which holds the license for Harley-Davidson said Eric Wiseman, executive vice president of global brands, during the call. apparel. Sportswear sales gained 1.8 percent to $166.3 million from $163.3 million. The Lee brand in particular underperformed during the quarter and con- Earnings for the nine months were up 15.8 percent to $404.7 million, or $3.55 a tributed to a 7 percent decline in domestic sales. share, from $349.4 million, or $3.11 a share, driven by outdoor apparel and equip- “We’ve taken our eye off our women’s business,” said Wiseman, a problem the ment sales, which jumped the $1 billion hurdle. company is attempting to solve with a new print advertising campaign touting the Overall sales rose 6.8 percent to $4.8 billion from $4.49 billion, again fueled by Lee brand’s fit. booming sales in the outdoor apparel segment, which ballooned 51.2 percent to $1.1 Wiseman also cited the results of a study by The NPD Group examining jean- billion. Jeanswear sales fell 0.8 percent to $1.99 billion, while intimate apparel swear sales between June and August that showed a 11 percent decline at midtier sales were down 7.7 percent to $663.6 million. Imagewear sales rose 5.9 percent to department stores. “Lee sales were down a bit more [than that],” said Wiseman. $445.4 million, while sportswear sales posted a gain of 8.7 percent to $445.4 million. The Luxe P ages 11-29

Lure/20 Lure/20 WWDRealEstateReview T he Latest Developments he Latest ● Gordon Group’s GrowthGame/16 Village inGilbert,Ariz.,isduetoopen2007andaprimeexample of Macerich’s newestproject—andArizona’slargestcenterSanTan ● What’s Ne the boominretailrealestate. w at the Mall/12

PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO; MODEL: DANIELA LOPES/MARILYN; HAIR BY RIAD ASAR FOR LOREAL/FRANK ARENDS; MAKEUP BY SARA GLICK FOR BENEFIT/SARAGLICK.COM; CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN SHOES; STYLED BY DANIELA GILBERT 12 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005

WWD.COM

REAL ESTATE REVIEW Malls Cultivate New Store Concepts

By Sharon Edelson py products. the mark and able to customize their designers that work really well in The Limited can roll out stores just buys to the market,” she said. “We have a Arizona, such as Ivan Grundle.” At Haus, NEW YORK — WHEN THE LIMITED about anywhere, but smaller entrepre- person who specializes in going out and a contemporary home design store that Brands launches a new retail concept, it neurs and start-up retailers need more working with local retailers and educat- carries eccentric furniture and acces- usually chooses Easton Town Center for attention. When it comes to new con- ing them about shopping centers.” sories, Jonathan Adler is a top seller. its first location. That’s because the mall, cepts, certain malls are more prepared Macerich offers newbies temporary “Mom-and-pop shops are interest- in Columbus, Ohio, is close enough to than others to nurture stores along, lease agreements, which allows them to ing,” Gotsis. “Consumers are tired of Limited Brands’ headquarters for chief especially those centers that seek out give the shopping center business a try. seeing the same thing in every depart- executive officer Leslie Wexner to drive local and regional retailers that may “As they’re able to build their shopping ment and specialty store.” over and check its progress. not have the mind-set or the financial center base, we begin to talk to them Mark Himmelman, regional leasing Not surprisingly, the company’s latest wherewithal to ramp up a business. about permanent deals,” said Gotsis, director for Forest City Commercial prototype for Bath & Body Works was “It requires patience to work with adding that deals with smaller players Group, said it combined elements of a recently unveiled at Easton. The 4,000- these entrepreneurs,” said Tracy are “based on different financial struc- regional mall and lifestyle center to square-foot flagship was redesigned to Gotsis, senior vice president of market- tures.” create the downtown Victoria Gardens convey a soothing spa environment. It ing for the Macerich Co., which oper- Local stores such as Objects, Amy Inc., in Rancho Cucamonga, Calif. It’s been will be rolled out nationwide in 2006, ates the Biltmore Fashion Park, in This Little Piggy Wears Cotton and Haus especially attractive to new retailers. the Limited said. One of its key features Phoenix, among other properties. complement Escada, Polo Ralph Lauren “The center is open-air, so people is a white porcelain bathtub filled with But all the work is worth the effort, and Stuart Weitzman at the Biltmore. can spend more time,” he said. “Our water surrounded by BBW hydrothera- said Gotsis. “Local retailers are hitting Amy Inc., said Gotsis, “picks up on Continued on page 14

Objects carries fashions for men, women and the home. Amy Inc. features Arizona-style apparel.

Gap’s newest At This Little Piggy Wears concept is Cotton, hot sellers are Juicy Forth & Towne. Couture and Burberry for kids. whew!

Another exhausting leasing spree. RKF is proud to note that so far this year, we have represented the following retailers in leases throughout the United States.

Design Within Reach Oakley Anthropologie Zales Swatch Secaucus, NJ Manhattan Manhattan Manhattan Las Vegas

Solstice Forever 21 Design Within Reach Solstice Urban Outfitters Houston Manhattan Roslyn, NY Manhattan Las Vegas

Zales Solstice John Varvatos Steve Madden Design Within Reach Queens Tucson Manhattan Charlotte, NC Greenwich, CT

Steve Madden Swatch Ben Sherman Forever 21 Solstice Tampa Manhattan Manhattan Pittsburgh Jacksonville

New York & Company Intermix BriteSmile Intermix Steve Madden Manhattan Manhattan McLean, VA Southampton, NY Manhattan

American Apparel Breguet Zales Rugby BriteSmile Manhattan Beverly Hills Brooklyn Manhattan Manhattan

From national strategies to strategic corners – think RKF. To learn more, call Robert K. Futterman at 212.599.3700. www.rkf.com

Strategic thinking

ROBERT K. FUTTERMAN & ASSOCIATES I RKF STRATEGIC RETAILER SERVICES I RKF RETAIL BROKERAGE SERVICES I RKF RETAIL PROPERTY ADVISORS 14 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005

WWD.COM

REAL ESTATE REVIEW

Abercrombie & Fitch introduced Ruehl to capture an older customer.

Haus specializes in eclectic furniture and home products.

Malls Cultivate New Store Concepts Continued from page 12 “You always need to be on the lookout of Hot Topic. “They have 10 or 12 stores Today, the mature customer is feeling amenities include a big grass area with for unique, niche retailers. It’s much open so far,” he said. “It’s a fun store and neglected no more. In addition to Ruehl, movies in the park, a herb garden where more difficult today. If you find them much more interactive than most.” American Eagle Outfitter’s Martin + Osa people can have a cup of coffee, and a and nurture them and incubate them, In addition, Michaels expects C.O. and Gap’s Forth and Towne have sprung fire pit outside of Starbucks. There’s they can become very good regional Bigelow stores, another concept from up to offer women in their 20s through also a kids’ area with jungle gyms. retailers and even national retailers. Limited, to open in General Growth 40s more sophisticated styles than low- “Lenders generally like to see nation- “Most of the national retailers that centers. “We think it’s going to be suc- rise jeans and belly shirts. al tenants in projects,” Himmelman said. are doing well either have a new con- cessful based, on what’s happened at “They’re jumping to this market But a certain number of unique tenants cept or are contemplating a new concept Easton Town Center,” he said. “The new because of the success they see in that make a center interesting, he added. or have one in design,” said Michaels, Bath & Body Works will be a tremen- age group,” Michaels said. “If you look Zoomie’s, a Seattle-based youth-ori- who is most impressed with Ruehl. dous success, based on what we’ve seen at demographic studies, that is where ented store for snowboard enthusiasts, “Their [Abercrombie & Fitch’s] Holli- in the renderings.” the highest apparel spending is. It all and Thomas Station, for aficionados of ster chain has done fabulously. That When it comes to new retail con- started from Chico’s success. People Thomas the Tank Engine, are among the filled a void in the market. Ruehl will be cepts, national retailers often work on looked at it and said, ‘How did we miss novel names at Victoria Gardens. There’s more selective. Ruehl can have 150 the herd mentality: Identify an under- this age group?’ Besides, the teen cate- also ISSI, a fashion retailer that has a stores, at most.” served target audience and you’ll soon gory is, if not full, getting full.” store at the Beverly Center in Los He’s also bullish about Soma’s lin- have company. That happened when the Michaels would have expected more Angeles, and Jaloux Jaloux, a purveyor of gerie concept from Chico’s. “Victoria’s teen craze reached its apotheosis three innovation, however, from department junior fashions, which opens in March. Secret has had this business all to them- years ago and chains such as Wet Seal, stores, he said. “Whether it’s Federated “Girl Mania has some legs,” said selves forever,” Michaels said. “It’s too Forever 21, Hot Topic, PacSun Rampage or J.C. Penney, I would think you would Himmelman, indicating that the chain early to tell whether the customer that and Hollister rushed to expand. see some new ideas from them and you for girls 4 to 14 years old has potential. thinks Victoria’s Secret is a little edgy At the time, Marshal Cohen, chief don’t. We’ve talked to Federated about Robert Michaels, president of General will go to Soma as opposed to depart- industry analyst at The NPD Group, Bloomingdale’s SoHo. It’s a great con- Growth Properties, noted that today’s sin- ment stores. We’re doing a lot of busi- said that overall, the large number of cept that could fit into a number of mar- gle store can be tomorrow’s chain. ness with them.” chains catering to the teen market was kets. They want to keep testing it. The “The Limited and Gap at one time Michaels expects to do more deals staggering compared with the scant few good thing about retail is, it’s always were mom-and-pop concepts,” he said. with MetroPark, a store from the founder that serve a mature customer. changing.” ONE

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TENANT REPRESENTATION • OWNER REPRESENTATION • PROJECT MANAGEMENT 16 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005

REAL ESTATE REVIEW Gordon Pushes the Envelope

By David Moin A rendering of Lac Mirabel. NEW YORK — SHELDON M. GORDON, CREATOR OF THE EXTRAORDINARILY productive Forum Shops at Caesars in Las Vegas and other breakthrough retail developments over the past four decades, continues to live on the edge, personally and professionally. “I never wanted to be the biggest. I always wanted to be the most interesting,” Gordon, now in his mid-70s, said in an interview by cell phone from his 160-foot yacht off the coast of Majorca, as he continued on a yearlong world cruise with his family that included stops in Hong Kong, Oslo and Barcelona. “I will tell you that I’m not much good at building malls with department stores on a flat piece of farmland.” Yet he is good at coming up with something different. In the Gordon pipeline is the Epicenter Collection, a 200,000-square-foot setting for online and catalogue companies — possibly L.L. Bean, Hold Everything and Red Envelope — to have show rooms where shoppers order products by handheld “buy- pods.” Epicenter could make its debut in the Polaris Fashion Place in Columbus, Ohio, but other locations are being negotiated and no leases have been signed yet. Epicenter represents Gordon’s answer to filling space in malls left behind by shut- tered department stores. “It’s absolutely not competitive” to other retailers in the mall, he said. “We are creating a whole different type of retailing. It will bring people to the mall who otherwise shop electronically and typically don’t visit malls. In a sense, you are walking through the Web, or you are in a living catalogue. You will see people there answering ques- tions intelligently, instead of stocking shelves, sweeping floors or swiping cards through registers.” With Epicenter, “we are not in the retail business. We don’t own For example, at The Pearlridge Mall in Hawaii, which opened in one [stock-keeping unit] of merchandise. We take a large piece of 1972, he was required to preserve a watercress farm on the site and real estate, and sublease to special types of tenants. We are purely in his solution was to build the mall in two sections flanking the farm, the real estate business.” and connect them by a monorail. It was the first monorail system in a Gordon also is developing Lac Mirabel, a 1.9 million-square-foot mall. “It’s fun to ride across,” Gordon said. “You are overlooking project with no department stores, just specialty units; a 100,000- Pearl Harbor.” square-foot spa; a 140,000-square-foot aquarium, and a marina. He also created a “merchandise bridge” over an eight-lane high- Located 30 minutes north of Montreal and expected to open in 2007, way in Vallco Park in California in 1978, and at The Pier at Caesars, Gordon said it will be the first environmentally friendly shopping Sheldon M. he’s part of a partnership developing a tram system that brings shop- center in North America “where we try to create as much energy as Gordon pers from the convention center to The Walk outlet center to the we can without using fossil fuels,” including creating a 121-acre lake Caesars casino and to The Pier at Caesars transportation center. It’s for cooling purposes. capable of moving about 3,000 people an hour. The Pier at Caesars, scheduled to open next spring, is intended to invigorate In 1980, Gordon defied convention by creating the Beverly Center, the first of its Atlantic City’s boardwalk with a higher grade of retail and restaurants. Again, he’s kind in America where retail is above the parking. The first selling floor is actually marrying gaming to stores, food and entertainment, similar to the approach he took six levels up, and Gordon acknowledged that it was a hard sell to get the original in Vegas, when he launched Forum Shops at Caesars in 1992. The Pier is connected anchors, Bullock’s and Broadway stores, on board. Now, Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s to Caesars Atlantic City by a skybridge, and will house brands such as Gucci, Hugo are in the mall. Boss, Louis Vuitton, Armani A|X, Bebe and Burberry. “With the Beverly Center, Sheldon had this whole idea that a regional mall could “Most developers have a fairly simple format,” said Allen Questrom, former be built on eight acres in eight vertical levels. Nobody else ever thought that way,” chairman and chief executive officer of J.C. Penney. “But Sheldon is one of the few said Robert Taubman, chairman and ceo of Taubman Centers Inc., which has part- creative real estate developers. He’s put centers in places where no one else could nered with Gordon on several projects, including The Pier at Caesars. “This was figure out how to do it. He’s a real producer.” way before people were thinking of vertical retail. Everything else was one or two Other retailers and real estate executives describe Gordon as focused on inno- levels and horizontal.” vation and ideas, more so than details, and as a classic entrepreneur who has always The San Francisco Center, opened in 1988, was another tough sell. It’s a nine- been able to find the capital to develop unusual projects. They say he’s been suc- level mall with 72,000-square-foot floor plates. Nevertheless, he was able to attract cessful at finding creative solutions to enable a retail environment to exist in very Nordstrom, which opened on the top five levels, and he installed the Western dense locations or where there are other physical constraints. Hemisphere’s first spiral elevator to help move traffic through the project. The

The Pier at Caesars in Atlantic City, here and right. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005 17

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The bird's eye view of what Lac Mirabel will look like.

Nordstrom store remains one of the Seattle-based chain’s largest units at 330,000 Lac Mirabel’s natural look. square feet. “Whoever wrote it in stone that department stores must have ground-floor expo- sure was full of bologna,” Gordon stated. “Sheldon has spent his life being a risk taker. He has a creative passion,” added Taubman, who also owns Beverly Center, though Gordon maintains a stake in it. “In Las Vegas, there were two catalysts,” Taubman added. “One was Steve Wynn. The other was Sheldon Gordon. Las Vegas was gambling only, but Sheldon brought an alternative. With Forum Shops, suddenly the concept of casinos and retail came together. Atlantic City is the same opportunity.” “Sheldon has dozens of ideas in various stages of development,” said Jay Valgora, the design principal of Walker Group, the architectural and design firm that has been helping design Epicenter. But with each project, “Sheldon wants it to be some- thing brand new, with a human quality, too. He’s restless. He’s a great ideas guy. He loves the game, and he’s not ready to retire.” However, Gordon is getting increasingly interested in outside activities, such as politics and supporting moderate politicians in Congress. He’s also active in help- ing charities, such as the Boys & Girls Club of Greenwich, Conn., where his compa- ny is based. And these days, he’s obviously feeling more comfortable about letting his sons run the business while he globetrots and spends more time with his family. He’s on percent. Every project is owned by an individual or by other companies that might his second marriage, has four children, including two who are adopted, and five invest with Gordon in the project. About a dozen projects are in the works, includ- grandchildren. ing several condominiums in New York City. Still, he insists he still wants to be the ideas man. Gordon said he has been doing business with Taubman Cos. since 1959, and was “I thought I would have to leave the boat every month to run the office, but there an ally in the hostile Simon-Westfield takeover attempt of Taubman, in which has not been a need for that,” Gordon said. “I did come back for a month around last Gordon ended up with a major block of Taubman stock. Recently, the two formed a Christmas, and again two weeks at the end of May. But really, I have only come back joint venture that will pursue casino-based deals in Singapore and other locations six weeks out of the last 10 months. My two older sons have really taken hold.” Scott around the world. [president of Gordon Group Holdings] runs the shopping center division, and Craig Not everything Gordon has touched has turned to gold, though. With the handles special projects, such as Epicenter, and It’s Sugar, a candy store venture. Battersee project in London, the plan was to convert a former power plant into a “I don’t have to be there on a day-to-day basis. I continue to create ideas and let retail complex, but Gordon was removed from the development, reportedly due to them execute. But we are busier today and more creative than we’ve ever been.” creative differences with the owner. Asked how big the company is, he replied: “Right now, we are in the process of Also, he’s got a mixed record on partnerships, though with Taubman, it’s been developing over $1 billion worth of properties, that are primarily owned by Gordon smooth for decades. Gordon is in a lawsuit against Simon Properties over the Forum family members.” Shops at Caesars. The two were partners, but Simon bought out Gordon’s position For example, his wife owns 70 percent of The Pier at Caesars; Taubman has 30 and Gordon has been disputing his compensation. “I filed a lawsuit over a year ago accusing Simon of some not-so-pleasant things,” Gordon said. Once, a former employee sued Gordon for a piece of the Forum Shops. The case was settled, and the ex-employee got a piece of the Forum, though Gordon said it was a minor situation. “My big problem has been my partners, primarily. I think I am a very good part- ner, but I’ve been unfortunate sometimes, other than with the Taubmans.” His career in development spans four decades, but he started in finance, as a runner on the Chicago Board of Trade when he was 15 and later entered interna- tional trade at Bear Stearns. In 1954, he moved to San Francisco, where he worked for Milton Myer, a real estate leasing and development firm, and rose to manager of the commercial department. He later formed a partnership with E. Phillip Lyon, and developed his first cen- ter, The Kahala Mall, which became Hawaii’s first enclosed mall. “We tore most of it down and rebuilt it, enclosed it and retenanted. I remember I didn’t have 5 cents at the time, but I loved doing it. I was the one who pushed everyone to do it.” The partnership lasted for 18 years until Lyon retired in 1983 and Gordon formed his own company. Asked what his favorite mall is, other than any of his own, he said: “I like Park Meadows in Colorado, mainly because it is very indigenous to Colorado, with a lot of stone and wood and other indigenous materials. It gave me the idea of doing this green mall in Montreal.” But he also gets inspired by smaller projects, including Fred Hayman’s stores that feature offbeat touches such as a billiards table and a butler. “I love things like that. I love new, fresh ideas. Break the mold and things have a way of working out the best. That’s been my life story,” Gordon said. “When things can look totally dire, and people say you can’t do it or it’s never been done, I say break the mold. I have tried to do that over and over again.” 18 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005

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REAL ESTATE REVIEW Rockefeller Center Gets Stylish

By Sharon Edelson Banana NEW YORK — THE DEPARTURES OF SEVERAL TENANTS HAS GIVEN THE Republic at owners of Rockefeller Center the opportunity to reinvent the property as a desti- Rockefeller nation known as much for its shopping as its Christmas tree and skating rink. Center. Tishman-Speyer, which acquired the property with one other investor in 2001, is said to be aiming for a youthful fashion customer. An example of this direction is the latest tenant to sign a lease, Anthropologie, which will occupy a 23,288-square-foot space at 50 Rockefeller Plaza. Anthropologie replaces Nautica, which closed last year after several years of struggling at the site. Rockefeller Center’s tenant roster includes Kenneth Cole, Banana Republic, Coach, Cole Haan, L’Occitane, Tumi, J. Crew, Façonnable, Dean & Deluca, the NBC Experience Store and others. Sephora closed its high-profile Fifth Avenue location at the center in 2002. That space was filled by Façonnable, which relocated its flagship to the 21,555- square-foot store on the corner of 51st Street. Sources said Sephora had too much space and wanted to bring its occupancy costs down. It opened a 5,000-square- foot store across Fifth Avenue. Other vacancies at the center have allowed the property to accommodate tem- porary retail concepts, such as the temporary Isaac Mizrahi for Target collection store that made a brief appearance in 2003 and a temporary Eddie Bauer store devoted to down products. Built in the Thirties, Rockefeller Center has 750,000 square feet of retail space, including shops and restaurants below ground. It was constructed during a time that predates the current era of megaflagships; the display windows of

The Atlas statue at Rockefeller Center.

The ornate artwork above Kenneth Cole's entrance.

stores at Rockefeller Center are smaller than the typical multistory glass facades seen on Fifth Avenue. Tishman-Speyer, which declined to comment for this story, worked with the New York City Landmarks Commission and New York City Planning to enlarge the storefronts while maintaining the architectural integrity of Rockefeller Center. Jeffrey Paisner, executive managing director of Lansco, said, “Retailers want to create a merchandising statement. They’ve changed the size of the windows to the max” and they’re still not large enough. “Signage is another issue,” he said. “There are major limitations regarding how they can sign themselves.” “It’s easy to point to the landmarking issue as a negative, but at the end of the day, the location is really what’s important,” said Robert Futterman, chairman and chief executive officer of Robert K. Futterman Associates, who represented Anthropologie. “It gets a mix of both tourists and office workers.” The landmarking concessions make the cost of space at Rockefeller Center difficult for some retailers to justify. Paisner put prices in the $800 to $900 range per square foot on Fifth Avenue and about $400 per square foot for interior spaces on side streets and near the rink. Rockefeller Center has plenty of foot traffic and excitement. Besides the holi- day events, it hosts an annual car show, flower show and various art exhibitions. Entertainment-oriented stores include Pokemon, the NBC Store and the Metropolitan Museum Store. “The owners realize that there is a big need for junior-type tenants,” Paisner added. “It’s really not a luxury center.” Futterman said there’s lots of opportunity to bring sought-after tenants to Rockefeller Center. Barnes & Noble, for example, moved across Fifth Avenue, leaving 20,000 square feet of space vacant. He said a good addition to the tenant roster would be “something younger and more in line with what’s happening on Fifth Avenue, where you have Zara, American Girl Place and Abercrombie & Fitch opening. I’d like to see Quiksilver, American Eagle Outfitters, Urban Outfitters, Diesel or Forever 21.” “Tishman-Speyer had these plans to get this core of luxury tenants,” Paisner said. “Getting Christie’s [auction house as a tenant] in the beginning made them think they could. At the end of the day, Rockefeller Center attracts tourists with their kids.” Those tourists need a place to eat. Reportedly, La Goulue has signed a lease to open a bistro described as being in the vein of Balthazar. “That’s what they need,” said Futterman. “Something that will stay open later.

PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTOS BY “The owners of Rock Center are getting hipper,” Futterman added.

20 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005

REAL ESTATE REVIEW Mapping Luxe Growth: Cha

14 0 0 0 10 3 0 0 0 0 0 10 2 0 7 3 1 0 6 10 0 5 5 4 16 2 7 64 7 0 2 0 1 3 0 10 3 9 0 2 1 0 1 0 1 8 29 0

29 Luxury Land of Opportunity? Number of stores per state of the top luxe retailers MAP BY ROYALTY-FREE CORBIS MAP BY ROYALTY-FREE

By Arthur Zaczkiewicz and Meredith Derby about $8 billion, according to WWD estimates, which represents about 60 percent of their total combined sales. NEW YORK — THE OLD ADAGE LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION CARRIES Noteworthy is California, which has 64 stores among the three high-end retail- an addendum for high-priced department stores: It’s got to be a location near peo- ers. The reason for the large number may be answered by the state’s $58,327 medi- ple with money. an annual income as well as its pricey real estate. Of the 50 most expensive zip So it’s no wonder that, over the past decade — through the biggest luxury boom codes, ranked by Forbes, 30 are in California. in U.S. history — retailers such as Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and The remaining sales are spread out across the U.S.; by these three retailers Nordstrom Inc. have chased down prime locations in the richest zip codes. You have the fewest stores in North Carolina, the District of Columbia, Massachusetts, might think that all the good spots are taken, that there’s no room to grow a luxury New Mexico and Kansas. They have no stores — as one might expect, since there is retail brand. Well, think again. no large, wealthy population — in Arkansas, Iowa, Kentucky and Montana. An analysis by WWD of the locations of the top three luxury department store Delaware, birthplace of tax-free apparel, does not have one of these stores, even retailers and recent median income data show there is room for these companies though the state’s average median income is more than $60,000 a year. to grow. But to pull it off, they have to think out of the box. Way out of the box. States where these retailers have very little presence — even though the areas, Some are beginning to. Over the past year, analysts and real estate brokers have according to Census Bureau data, have some of the country’s highest median in- been talking up the idea of getting the big luxury chains to make a significant push comes — are Nebraska ($52,472), New Hampshire ($67,848) and Rhode Island to open smaller-footprint stores. In August, real estate sources said Neiman’s was ($58,978). Rhode Island does have a Nordstrom. On a county level, Census data negotiating space for a new, smaller format (say, 10,000 square feet) in the Tysons shows there are numerous pockets where median income is between $62,000 and Corner Center in McLean, Va., as well as the Westfield Century City mall in Los $98,000 (see adjoining map). These are in Colorado, Minnesota, Michigan, Angeles. There was also talk of a Georgetown location in Washington. In Maryland, Ohio, Connecticut and Massachusetts. September, Nordstrom picked up a majority stake in designer retailer Jeffrey. The So, to serve states that have high median income, but few high-income house- company said it was looking to open additional Jeffrey stores. holds, the luxury department stores could be effective opening boutique-like, According to the analysis of the market, the bulk of Neiman’s, Nordstrom and smaller versions of their department store concepts — as long as customers who SFA stores are concentrated in the richest, most populous states, namely can afford luxe prices are nearby. California, Florida and Texas. These retailers also have a strong presence in “I would say that there is opportunity for retail innovation in the luxe market,” Illinois, Washington (all Nordstrom, where it is based), New Jersey, New York, said consultant Emanuel Weintraub of Emanuel Weintraub Associates Inc. Oregon, Virginia and Arizona. All these states have average median incomes well “There’s an awful lot of money in…the nonleadership cities.” above the national average of $44,000 a year. Such A-list retail market cities as San Francisco, New York, Miami and Dallas are Collectively, sales by these three retailers in the 10 states just mentioned total known to have populations with high disposable incomes, but there are other cities, WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005 21

WWD.COM asing Dollars Coast to Coast

Nashville, say, or Aspen, Colo., that also have staggering amounts of wealth, Weintraub noted. WHERE THE LUXURY RETAILERS ARE Yet neither SFA, Neiman Marcus nor Nordstrom has any stores in Tennessee, and in Colordao, Saks has just one store in Colorado, Neiman’s has two and Nordstrom has four. State: Saks Fifth Avenue Nordstrom Neiman's Total By State “As astute as the luxe retailers are, they perhaps need to reconsider their homework because we have an absolutely homogenized taste level,” Weintraub said, adding that female shoppers in California 9 49 6 64 Texas would not balk at paying $1,000 for handmade cowboy boots and they still need to buy Florida 11 9 9 29 dressy, mainstream apparel and accessories, the same as the typical shopper on a boutique-filled Texas 6 11 12 29 area such as Madison Avenue in New York. In addition, he noted that every major regional metro area in the U.S. sells the same types of Illinois 3 10 3 16 luxury automobiles. Washington 0 14 0 14 “My view is that they really need do their analytics again,” Weintraub said. “If you talk about the true high-end boutiques selling eyeglasses or custom jewelry, or selling unique clothing and New Jersey 2 5 3 10 shoes, I’m thinking that when you add it all up nationwide, it’s huge. People with money want an New York 3 5 2 10 outlet for spending that money.” Oregon 2 8 0 10 There are also tourism dollars that might be grabbed with smaller luxe boutiques in locations such as Aspen or a leaf-peeping state such as New Hampshire. But the cost-to-return ratio of a Virginia 2 7 1 10 large-store format would not work in these areas. Arizona 1 6 2 9 “Retailers have a size of scale, and you’re not going to put an upscale Nordstrom in Casperº, Wyoming,” Weintraub said. “The question is, where do you put [luxury department stores] that Georgia 1 5 2 8 you’re going to draw them? It’s not something that lends itself to an easy conclusion.” Colorado 1 4 2 7 It’s clear, though, that there’s a reason luxury retailers aren’t in Maine or Vermont. Maryland 1 6 0 7 “Without enough concentration of prospective customers that are of a certain demographic, you’re not getting foot traffic and you’re not getting buying traffic. And, without a certain invento- Michigan 1 4 2 7 ry turnover, you’re not going to be profitable,” explained Craig Johnson, president of retail con- Pennsylvania 2 2 2 6 sultant Customer Growth Partners. Retailers tend to be very scientific about where they choose to open stores, said Johnson. They Nevada 1 2 2 5 typically complete market studies that show that stores are most successful when they’re opened Ohio 3 2 0 5 in a city that has at least a specific number of people within a certain radius as well as a popula- Utah 0 4 0 4 tion that is able to afford a certain level of spending. The retailers then cross-reference the demo- graphic and population information with sales from their direct-to-consumer business to ensure Connecticut 2 1 0 3 that a specific city is a good choice, Johnson said. Hawaii 0 2 1 3 The consolidating retail market puts the luxury department store sector in a good place. About 75 stores will be up for grabs as Federated Department Stores completes its merger with May Minnesota 0 2 1 3 Department Stores. Missouri 1 1 1 3 Combined, SFA, Nordstrom and Neiman’s currently operate less than 300 stores domestically, North Carolina 1 2 0 3 and Nordstrom makes up more than half of that amount. Indeed, Nordstrom is at least one luxury department store player that stands to benefit from District of Columbia 1 0 1 2 empty anchor stores. Nordstrom is “better positioned to pick and choose prime locations,” Indiana 1 1 0 2 Jennifer Black of Jennifer Black & Associates wrote in a recent research note to clients. “We also think the company is positioned in a sweet spot, with some luxury offerings, helping the retailer Massachusetts 1 0 1 2 to maintain its cachet, and well above the lower tier, whose customers are being negatively im- New Mexico 0 0 2 2 pacted by escalating fuel costs.” Alabama 1 0 0 1 Nordstrom is also in a good place because it’s competitive among younger markets, Black said. “Channel checks consistently reveal strong traffic trends and consumers seem to be more and Alaska 0 1 0 1 more inclined to name Nordstrom as one of their top destinations for apparel and related items,” Kansas 0 1 0 1 Black wrote. “We believe the teen customers, in particular, are more regularly shopping Oklahoma 1 0 0 1 Nordstrom and that the company is stealing market share from other teen destinations.” Rhode Island 0 1 0 1 South Carolina 1 0 0 1 Arkansas 0000 Delaware 0000 Idaho 0000 Iowa 0000 Kentucky 0000 Louisiana 0000 Maine 0000 Mississippi 0000 Montana 0000 Nebraska 0000 New Hampshire 0000 North Dakota 0000 South Dakota 0000 Tennessee 0000 Vermont 0000 West Virginia 0000 Wisconsin 0000 Wyoming 0000

SOURCE: COMPANY WEB SITES AS OF OCT. 1, 2005. NORDSTROM INCLUDES NORDSTROM RACK, SPA NORDSTROM AND FAÇONNABLE BOUTIQUE. NEIMAN'S INCLUDES THE BERGDORF GOODMAN STORES. A glance at median family income according to the U.S. Census Bureau. 22 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005

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REAL ESTATE REVIEW Glimpsing the Future of Mixed Use

By Amy S. Choi hoods to look authentically downtown. Baby Boomers with a taste for good design have brought a return to aesthetics to real estate, and that has trickled down to the ATLANTA — AFTER YEARS OF DEVELOPMENT, THE $2 BILLION ATLANTIC retail world; mall owners and office developers are recruiting world-renowned Station finally celebrated its grand opening last week. With its mixed-use, envi- architects to plan their mixed-use spaces. ronmentally responsible construction, the massive city-within-a-city represents a But for all the popularity of this new concept in retail, the major mall real new retail frontier. estate investment trusts are simply using classic urban planning. Atlantic Station is nestled between downtown Atlanta to the south and tony Retailers are thinking more like urban planners — or hiring them. Earlier this Buckhead to the north. Before Jacoby Development Inc. took it over in 1997, it was year, General Growth hired Tom D’Alesandro, a master-plan community develop- home to the Atlantic Steel Mill, which pumped out 750,000 tons of steel annually. When er, to head its mixed-use operations. the city approved Jacoby’s development plans for the site a year later, Atlantic Station In these new downtowns, public space is the anchor. Classic squares and plazas was nothing but an ambitious master plan for hundreds of acres of severely contami- that act as social hubs and seating areas are the draw, not a department store. nated land that was environmentally hazardous and devoid of commercial appeal. The Related Co.’s City Place in Palm Beach, Fla.; General Growth’s Jordan After years of cleanup, during which roughly 165,000 tons of contaminated Creek Town Center in West Des Moines, Iowa, and Simon’s St. John’s Town Center materials were removed from the site, Atlantic Station is now one of a crop of in Jacksonville, Fla., are perfect examples of the new wave. gleaming live/work/play environments popping up across the country. “Mixed-use” “Every one of our mixed-use projects has significant design features,” said Richard is the phrase that makes retail developers’ hearts beat a little faster these days, Sokolov, president and chief operating officer of Simon. “You’ll see promenades and and Atlantic Station, owned by Jacoby and AIG Global, is a prime example. vistas and balconies, and a number of architectural features that give [people] a sense “Atlantic Station is well ahead of its time,” said Greg Maloney, president and chief of place and give the customer a feeling of walking down an upscale downtown street.” executive officer of Jones Lang LaSalle’s retail business. “Twenty years ago, it would The return to old-fashioned community is the core of the new urbanism. be considered crazy, and five years ago, not too Though specialty retailers are clamoring to many developers were considering this kind of General Growth Properties Inc.’s Mizner come to mixed-use and town centers, given thing. Now, all eyes are on Atlantic Station.” Park offers shopping, dining, living and their high traffic and popularity, traditional What sets it apart are its broad retail offer- office space, and cultural institutions, department store formats don’t work there. If ings, which range from the southeast flagship of including the Boca Raton Museum of Art. anything, leisure is the next priorities after Dillard’s to the third-largest Ikea in the country. public space. Fashion retail nameplates include White “People want thoughtful development where

House|Black Market, Guess and American DAEMON BAIZAN PHOTO BY they can have an urban experience in a suburban Eagle Outfitters; restaurants include everything setting,” said Michael Glimcher, ceo of Glimcher from Tasti D’Lite to Rosa Mexicana and the Realty Trust, which is considering adding resi- Grape, a wine bar. There are more than 2,000 dential units to a mall in Portland, Ore. new condominiums, apartments, town houses “There are lots of ways of achieving critical and student housing units on the site, a hotel mass for retail. Obviously a grouping of four that will open in 2006 and office towers for cor- department stores and a bunch of specialty porate tenants, including Wachovia Corp. stores in a mall is one way,” said Dillard’s vice Atlantic Station, which received local and president of real estate, Wes Cherry. “But the federal funding, has a storm and sewage system goal is to get as many people as possible to come separate from the rest of Atlanta’s, and aimed to the project. If our shopper lives in the project, for a Leadership in Energy and Environmental or wakes up in the morning and thinks that she Design certification for some of its construc- can go to the dentist, have lunch with her tion. The Wachovia building was one of the first friends and do some shopping all at one loca- properties in the southeast to earn L.E.E.D. sta- tion, then we’ve won. We very much like the tus, which denotes environmental sustainabili- notion a mixed-use project gives you of some- ty, from the U.S. Green Building Council. place that can accommodate all your needs.” This mini city within Atlanta exemplifies some of the problems and solutions of modern U.S. development, retail and otherwise. What’s Not to Like? Atlanta suffers from suburban sprawl and is Some mall developers aren’t ready to dive sorely underserved by retail, with only 1.9 into mixed use, though. Westfield Group, which square feet of retail space per person, com- is well-known for adding atypical retail facili- pared with the national average of 20 square ties to its properties and was among the first to feet, according to Jim Jacoby, chairman, ceo bring Wal-Mart and Target to malls, isn’t jump- and founder of Jacoby Development. ing on the bandwagon. From its experience in European and Australian developments that house fashion next to grocery stores and dis- Approximations of Urbanity counters, though, it is eager to see more flexi- The irony of the new popularity of mixed- ble development in U.S. malls. use centers — and the move away from the traditional regional mall—is that shop- “We’re not as aggressive as some of the other mall owners in adding mixed uses pers and developers are returning to the downtowns they left in the flight to the to the malls,” said Peter Lowy, managing director of the Westfield Group. “Adding suburbs in the Fifties, when the regional mall was becoming popular. hotels and other uses like that to malls is possible, but it could be self-defeating to “From an urban planning objection, the question is, why is mixed-use develop- build condos or appropriate land and use it up that way, at the expense of future ment happening? Is this just the new retail fad or is it more fundamental?” asked retail development. You don’t want a one-off deal.” Yaromir Steiner, founder of Steiner & Associates and a pioneers in lifestyle cen- And retail developers worry about stepping too far outside their area of expert- ter development. “I believe it’s a fundamental shift toward high-density urban ise; a mall REIT takes a chance developing a hotel, said Glimcher, who prefers to nodes. In the 1950s, every town had its downtown. The last 50 years, more than focus on retail. Joint ventures with other specialized developers are one solution, anything else, has been an aberration in urban planning. Now, for several reasons, and a risk that many developers are willing to take. we are reaching back to urban living, and retail is trying to find its place in it.” “We’re not doing it just to do it. We’re doing it for the incremental demand for Steiner’s company plans to open two town centers in the coming year and will hotel, office, residential or self-storage uses, and we believe we can incorporate break ground on another. All are in locations without a dense urban core — those uses without limiting the scope and appropriate presentation for our retail Milwaukee; Dayton, Ohio, and Kansas City, Kan. project,” said Sokolov. “From our perspective, we need to make sure we have the But mixed-use development doesn’t mean just adding a hotel to mall property, right mix of tenants in the right configuration of property types, and we can ensure or building a corporate office building in an adjacent lot, though developers are the retail will be a success.” doing that, too. Most mall developers — including the Macerich Co. at Tysons In that sense, mixed-use development doesn’t sound so different from malls — Corner in Virginia, General Growth Properties Inc. at Natick Mall in except that, instead of department stores, the anchors are open plazas and condos. Massachusetts and Landmark Mall in Virginia — now add condominium towers or And, in theory, these town centers will never be out of date, like defunct low-end high-rise office buildings to their regional mall plots. Simon Property Group noted malls, because they have more than one function. it is working with condominium or multifamily developers at more than a dozen “It is critical that in a town center, all of the real estate has multiple uses,” said projects. As more traditional department stores are shut because of consolidation, Steiner. “Construction is precious. With thoughtful development like what is com- there is more room for residential units in malls. ing out now, we don’t need to keep throwing away buildings every 10 years. The But true mixed-use developments, or town centers, as they are increasingly buildings and the infrastructure, the streets, the parking garages, everything can called, plan for and give office, hotel, residential, leisure and, most important, be used for other purposes if need be.” public space equal billing with retail. So Atlantic Station, the former steel mill, has a new life. And perhaps the fact As in Atlantic Station, convenience for residents is a big factor; people want to that the site can be reused, if retailers fade away, will be its greatest success. live within walking distance of shops and work. And they want their neighbor- — With contributions from Georgia Lee, Atlanta EXPANDING RETAIL BOUNDARIES

Miami • Los Angeles • Madrid • New York • Rome Chicago • Toronto • Atlanta • San Francisco Dallas • Washington, D.C. • Glasgow

Plus Retail Destinations In An Additional 21 Markets

7 03.526.5000 WWW.THEMILLS.COM NYSE:MLS 24 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005

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REAL ESTATE REVIEW Finding Mall Roots in Iowa

By Amy S. Choi General Growth Properties Inc.’s first mall, the Town and Country Center in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, was built in 1954. WEST DES MOINES, IOWA — RETAIL MAY BE A TOUGH BUSINESS, BUT THERE are a few sweet moments. The return of Matthew Bucksbaum, chairman of General Growth Properties Inc., to West Des Moines last year was one of them. The Bucksbaum family has deep roots in Iowa, where the brothers, Matthew and Martin, ran the family grocery store business. In 1954, they built one of the country’s first malls, the Town and Country Center in Cedar Rapids. When Matthew came back with his son, John, now chief executive officer of General Growth, to celebrate the opening of the Jordan Creek Town Center in West Des Moines in August 2004, the small family operation had blossomed during the half century to become one of the largest developers of retail real estate in the coun- try. According to the Forbes 400 Richest Americans List of 2005, Matthew and his family are now worth $2.4 billion and rank 109th on the list. “It was an emotional project for our entire family because it was, in a certain way, our crowning achievement,” said John Bucksbaum. “Jordan Creek was built because there was a need for it and it made financial sense. There was no senti- mentality or emotion in the process. But when we opened, it was the 50-year anniversary of the company, and to share a project of that magnitude with their friends and their community was a momentous thing for my parents.” Unlike other properties developed by Matthew and Martin, the $200 million Jordan Creek is a massive, 200-acre shopping and entertainment destination project. It offers an enclosed two-level shopping mall with upscale fashion, an open-air component with large and specialty retailers and, to cap it off, a 3.5- acre lake surrounded by bike trails, walkways, a boardwalk with waterfront dining, a hotel and an amphitheater. Formerly farmland, its anchors include Younkers, Dillard’s, Scheels All Sports, Best Buy, Costco and Old Navy, and the restaurants P.F. Chang’s China Bistro and From Chicago, the family’s continuing retail influence in Iowa, Bravo Cucina. Roughly 16 million people have visited the center hardly a shopping mecca, is profound. since it opened, bringing in shoppers and dollars from through- “They were the catalyst to a lot of development in the area,” said out the state. Dunbar, of Blue Willi’s. In West Des Moines, several strip shopping General Growth’s other Iowa prize is Coral Ridge Mall in centers along with other upscale retail developments such as West Coralville, a town neighboring Iowa City. Its third property, Mall of Glen Town Center have sprouted up since Jordan Creek opened. the Bluffs, in Council Bluffs, is 19 years old and decidedly smaller. Coral Ridge had a similar effect. That mall, which opened seven Both properties are more modest than Jordan Creek. years ago in an undeveloped area off Interstate Highway 80, spurred “They wanted to build this mall and they wanted it to be the crown the development of a Wal-Mart Supercenter, Kohl’s, Lowe’s and other jewel of their developments,” said Kathy Dunbar, owner of Blue Willi’s by Kathy, smaller shops and restaurants. an upscale men’s and women’s apparel shop at Jordan Creek. “Everything they Aside from shopping centers, the Bucksbaum legacy in Iowa includes support put in writing, they do.” for the arts and contributions to three colleges and universities. The Martin Beyond what they put in writing, the friendliness of the Iowa family is still in Bucksbaum Family Foundation, for example, contributed $1 million in 1996 to their bones, and in their business. Dunbar was impressed when, on the day of the support a popular lecture series at Drake University in Des Moines. opening, Matthew Bucksbaum stopped by her store. “This is the biggest drawing lecture we have at Drake,” said Susan Breaken- “That kind of thing usually doesn’t happen with a corporation that size,” ridge, administrator of the lecture series. Past speakers at the free lectures have Dunbar said. included documentary film director and author Ken Burns, musician Wynton While retail real estate investment trusts are young enough that many of the Marsalis, political commentator Tim Russert and author Salman Rushdie. founding families still control the company — for example, David Simon runs Simon Martin Bucksbaum’s widow, Melva, and his daughter, Mary Bucksbaum Property Group, the REIT founded by his father and uncles; Alfred Taubman’s sons, Scanlan, have come to Iowa to attend some of the lectures, Breakenridge said. Robert and William, run Taubman Centers, and Stephen Lebovitz has stepped up as Melva and her daughter also funded the acquisition of two sculptures worth leader of his father Charles’ CBL & Associates — the Hawkeye State provides a $1.5 million for the Des Moines Art Center to be part of a river-walk project along uniquely provincial quality to the way the Bucksbaums run their business. the Des Moines River in Des Moines. It isn’t as though General Growth hasn’t executed its share of takeovers, hostile At the University of Iowa’s Henry B. Tippie College of Business, Matthew or otherwise. They were one of the first REITs listed on the New York Stock Bucksbaum has contributed to support a fellowship program at his alma mater. Exchange in 1984; in 1989, acquired The Center Cos., and 10 years later, bought an Matthew Bucksbaum is “a person who likes to see success,” said Gary Fethke, interest in CenterMark Properties. Just a year later, in 1995, the company invest- dean of the business college. “He wants to see good things happen and will sup- ed in the development arm of Sears, Roebuck and Co. and moved its headquarters port and push for it.” to Chicago. Last year, right around the time Matthew and John were visiting Iowa Other Bucksbaum influences include support for the Bucksbaum Center for for the opening of Jordan Creek, the REIT completed the $12.6 billion acquisition the Arts at Grinnell College in Grinnell, Iowa, and the Bucksbaum Arts Wing at the of Baltimore-based The Rouse Co., a major player in the now-explosive mixed-use Caspe Center, a Jewish cultural, social and sports center near Des Moines. development arena. And, despite Matthew Bucksbaum’s move to Chicago, “he is still emotionally “I was actually very skeptical and reluctant about ever building another shop- connected to Iowa,” Fethke said. “Iowa’s been important to [his] business.” ping center in Iowa,” laughed John Bucksbaum. “I couldn’t imagine that we would Chicago also has been a beneficiary — Matthew and Kay recently donated $2 mil- be successful by doing a new one, but lo and behold, the demand heated up and it lion to endow a fellowship at the University of Chicago. worked.” What John, who became ceo of General Growth six years ago at the age of 43, Bucksbaum will be the first to say that moving to Chicago was necessary to the will bring to Iowa specifically remains to be seen. Outside of Jordan Creek, it’s growth of the company. “We knew that Des Moines, while it had been very good for us unlikely that General Growth will develop any more major projects in the state — and while it had worked for the first generation of General Growth, wasn’t going to “it’s solid but certainly not explosive growth, like the Sunbelt cities” — and for the work any further. It was difficult at times to attract talent to Des Moines, transporta- past 25 years, his life has been spent in Chicago and other major metropolitan tion was an issue and so much of our business was spent in the financial centers. We areas. The business, too, is changing. The scope of the mall itself is different, as knew that large investors tended to be in places other than Des Moines, Iowa,” he said. are its caretakers. John, along with the likes of David Simon, Robert Taubman and But still, they weren’t going to abandon the Midwest entirely. New York City Stephen Lebovitz, have new geographies and properties to conquer. was “not especially appealing for various reasons and for various people as a “When I was younger, I thought if I were to become ceo, my greatest responsi- place to locate,” so Chicago was the choice. bility would be to be a good caretaker of what was already created. My job would be to take care of it and not mess it up,” he said with a laugh. “But now we’re in Editor’s Note: This is the third in an occasional series of articles in which WWD visits the second generation of retail. The mall was invented for all practical purposes markets “off the beaten path” of the regular retail and fashion haunts of New York, in the 1950s. And the business is changing so much, the second generation is com- Chicago and Los Angeles. In this series, which takes readers on a journey across the U.S., pletely remaking retail. So it’s been a wonderful opportunity to build upon the WWD will see how peripheral markets evolve, what brands are in demand, how retailers accomplishments and achievements of my father and uncle. I think the others merchandise their goods and what it takes to thrive in these markets. Today, “On the whose families are in similar situations have the same opportunities and are exe- Road With WWD” stops in West Des Moines, Iowa, to check in on the Bucksbaums, cuting the same options.” founders of General Growth Properties, one of America’s pioneers in mall development. — With contributions from Patt Johnson, Iowa The CommonsatCalabasas The VillageatPlayaVista Marina delRey, CA The Waterside Playa Vista,CA Calabasas, CA The PromenadeatWestlake The ShopsatSantaAnita The VillageatMoorpark W estlake Village,CA Santa Anita,CA Moorpark, CA FUTURE CARUSODEVELOPMENTS CARUSO RETAIL DEVELOPMENTS CARUSO AFFILIATED LIFE.STYLE.CARUSO. T 101 TheGroveDriveLosAngeles,CA90036 el 323-900-8100www.carusoaffiliated.com The AmericanaatBrand Encino MarketPlace Los Angeles,CA Glendale, CA Encino, CA The Grove The LakesatThousandOaks Golden GateFields Thousand Oaks,CA Los Angeles,CA Burton Place Albany, CA

© 2005 Caruso Affiliated 26 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005

REAL ESTATE REVIEW Oil Prices Not a Worry for Malls – Yet

By Amy S. Choi Center in New York and City Place in West Palm Beach. “I think about gas prices every morning as a consumer, as an individual. But as an operator, we’re always NEW YORK — RISING FUEL PRICES MIGHT BE WEIGHING HEAVILY ON THE looking for any way to eke more efficiency out of our business and tweak our busi- minds of homeowners, but for now, mall operators aren’t that concerned. At least, ness model where we can, but there is nothing specific on an operational level that not about how to heat their properties. we’re doing right now because of the current oil issue.” “Two weeks ago I was at an International Council of Shopping Centers meeting Hudson’s sentiments were echoed by a spokeswoman for Westfield Group, who with some of the biggest owners in the business, and energy concerns didn’t come up said the company “is always taking looks at how to lower operating costs,” but is not at all,” said R. Webber Hudson, executive vice president of Related Urban currently concerned with the issue of rising energy costs. Development. Related owns 1 million square feet of retail within the Time Warner One of the nation’s biggest developers, Simon Property Group, declined to com- ment. But although mall operators seem relatively unconcerned about rising energy costs, they clearly are weighing on con- sumers’ minds. An ICSC study that surveyed households said that roughly half of them were moderately concerned with paying their heating bills this winter. They should be. According to the Energy Information Admin- istration, a government agency that provides energy statistics, households using heating oil or propane can expect to pay more than 30 percent more this winter on heating costs. Should the win- ter be especially cold, the costs would be significantly higher. On a positive note, the average price of gasoline has crept back from the record average high of $3.07 per gallon in the beginning of September, but year-over-year, it is still up about 34 percent. But perhaps because September same-store comps demonstrated little slowdown — specialty retailers tracked by WWD posted the highest aggre- gate increase in the month with a 5 percent rise, while depart- ment stores grew by 1.4 percent — mall owners aren’t worried right now about people paying their utility bills or filling their tanks instead of shopping. “The real breaking point is when we see what the pulse is on holiday in the second or third week of December,” Hudson said. “If the consumer all of a sudden runs out of money because they’re spending it at the gas pump, or if the mer- chants have to hike up prices to cover incremental energy costs, then we’re going to have that discussion.” Gas and oil prices are only one element affecting shoppers, of course — though retailers are discounting items to keep sales high — the emotional toll of the hurricanes in the south- eastern U.S., the war in Iraq, and the earthquake in Pakistan are slowing frivolous spending while encouraging people to give generously to charitable donations. “The pie is only so big. That $100 that goes to the Red Cross has to come from somewhere,” said Hudson. According to ICSC, 65 per- cent of American households reported giving money to Hurricane Katrina relief efforts, though most of those who gave money for relief said they did not alter their other spending. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005 27

WWD.COM There’s No Place Like Home, Even at the Mall Robb & Stucky opened in a Tampa, Fla., mall. By Amy S. Choi led the charge on incorporating furniture retailers. At its Mall at Wellington Green, in West Palm Beach NEW YORK — Furniture showrooms are homing in on County, Fla., Taubman plans to open a 140,000-square- department store territory and creating big business foot City Furniture store in November in another va- for themselves and the malls they occupy. cant Lord & Taylor space. In South Florida, where the new home construction Robert Taubman, president and chief executive of- rate is creating a boom for the home furnishings mar- ficer of the mall company, said during a conference ket, mall owners are outfitting vacant department call this year that he expected the Florida-based City stores for popular furniture retailers. With Federated Furniture would more than double the volume of the Department Stores expected to shed at least 75 stores Lord & Taylor it is replacing. in the coming year as it begins converting May’s name- “It’s a very popular, well-known retailer in the plates into Macy’s, prime real estate is up for grabs, area,’’ said Larry Beermann, general manager of the and the furniture store trend is expected to catch on in Mall at Wellington Green. “They’ve got great pricing, other high-growth areas like Phoenix and Las Vegas. their average ticket price will be much higher than “The real estate in the mall is incredibly advanta- Continued on page 29 geous for us,” said Mary Turschmann, director of business development for Robb & Stucky, an upscale furniture retailer with showrooms in Florida, Tex- ADVERTISEMENT as and Arizona. “Our traffic is far exceeding what we ever thought it could be. There are thousands and thousands of people coming through the mall on a daily basis, so we see a ton of shoppers in our stores.” BEL MARÉ The retailer this year NEWPORT BEACH, CALIFORNIA opened a 120,000-square- foot store in a vacant Lord & Taylor at International Plaza in Tampa, Fla. Though Turschmann did- n’t disclose how the mall store’s sales figures com- pared with those of a typi- cal showroom, about 1,200 people are in the unit on a weekend day, more than six times the volume of The atmosphere of the new center will be authentic look and feel, providing visitors a truly shoppers in the average “completely different from other shopping individual and unique experience. Construction location. The shoppers at centers in the area”, he said, noting Bel Maré will will begin in the first quarter of 2006. International Plaza are be more suited for urban-styled, fashion forward “There’s a tremendous amount of time and prepared to pay, too. The boutiques, rather than the chain stores already money being spent with attention to detail of mall offers the usual crew heavily represented in Newport Beach and the construction and the aesthetics — how it of specialty retailers and surrounding areas. looks and how it flows,” Sussman commented, features upscale Christian “We have been told repeatedly by many comparing it to the Americana in Manhasset, Dior, Coach, Louis Vuitton, retailers that they’ve been looking to open a store N.Y. “It really is designed to be a total signature Hugo Boss, St. John and in Newport Beach for years but could never find one-of-a-kind project. Tiffany stores. The an- chors, Nordstrom, Neiman the right opportunity,” Goldman added. “Not only is the unique and world class tenant Marcus and Dillard’s, fill “These retailers are not traditional mall mix along with the location and prominence out the other three cor- tenants and have a vibe and energy that lend of the project going to set it apart, but the style ners of the mall. themselves to a street-type location. of the architecture and what it evokes when you The mix isn’t good only “Bel Maré is a perfect environment for these see it will be unlike any shopping environment for the retailer. Taubman tenants. We’re looking for tenants who are ever created in Newport Beach.” Co., the mall owner, be- recognized throughout the fashion world as the lieves that Robb & Stucky ‘best’ in their category— and not only from L.A. does triple the sales of Lord We have significant interest from retailers & Taylor, said David Wein- throughout the country and Europe.” ert, senior vice president of The center already has leased space to Lisa leasing for the real estate Kline, which will open three stores: for women, investment trust. “Home furnishings has A new upscale shopping center in Newport men and children. The retailer has existing always been a part of the Beach, Calif. promises to offer fashion retailers locations in areas including Beverly Hills and merchandising of better unparalleled exposure and access to consumers in Malibu. The children’s store is a concept created shopping centers, like one of the nation’s leading retail markets. by Lisa Kline specifically for this new location. Bel Pottery Barn or Williams- Bel Maré, a joint venture project between Allied Maré also has signed high-end skin care retailer Sonoma,” Weinert said. Retail Partners LLC and Red Mountain Retail Maria Martin for its first California store, reported “But full-scale furniture Group, Inc. will offer boutiques an “upscale urban Zach Sussman, Leasing Director, Allied Retail stores have never really street type environment” similar to those found in Partners LLC. made it into the malls. the Robertson, Montana, Melrose and Sunset The company is seeking retailers in categories When we were looking at Plaza areas in Los Angeles, said David Goldman, including women’s and men’s contemporary and alternatives to Lord & Managing Partner, Allied Retail Partners LLC. designer clothing, designer eyewear, jewelry, shoes, Taylor, though, it occurred Opening in summer 2007, Bel Maré will house home décor and children’s apparel, he noted. to us that people are living Bel Maré will stand two stories tall, with the and reacting in lifestyle-ori- about 20 stores and three signature restaurants ented ways. People like dif- throughout its 56,000 square foot space. The center ground level reserved for retail space and ferent types of uses at re- includes two levels and about 900 feet of direct one café. The upper level which includes a gional shopping centers frontage along the Pacific Coast Highway. Over beautifully landscaped outdoor garden area will today, and bringing in Robb 110,000 vehicles pass by the property each day, he house two preeminent sit-down restaurants, each & Stucky solved the issue of confirmed. with outdoor seating and breathtaking views of sameness that occurred “Suffice it to say, our retailers will enjoy tremendous the surrounding landscape. For further information about Bel Maré, when we had Lord & Taylor contact Zach Sussman, Leasing Director, exposure along Pacific Coast Highway because given The design of the center is modeled after Allied Retail Partners LLC, 310.235.0444 x12 in the mall.” the unusual dimensions of the site the center must an Italian villa, and even includes building [email protected] The Taubman Co. has be built right up on the street,” Goldman described. materials imported from Italy to help create an 28 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005

REAL ESTATE REVIEW Macerich Thinks Big in Arizona

A rendering of SanTan Village.

By David Moin

NEW YORK — MACERICH CO. IS STRENGTHENING ITS DOMINANCE OF THE Arizona market, with the ongoing buildup of the massive SanTan Village mixed-use lifestyle center. “This will be the state’s biggest project,” said Tracey Gotsis, senior vice president of development marketing, Macerich Co. Currently, the biggest in the state is Chandler Fashion Center in Chandler, Ariz., which has 1.7 million square feet. It’s also a Macerich project. Located in the fast-growing Phoenix suburb of Gilbert, SanTan Village encom- passes about 2.5 million square feet on 500 acres, with 1.2 million square feet devot- ed to three power centers, and 1.3 million square feet for a regional shopping cen- Macy’s is a maybe, but Dillard’s is committed to SanTan Village. ter. It’s anticipated that 185 stores will be on the site, with 150 in the regional shop- ping center and 35 within the power centers. Macerich, based in Santa Monica, Calif., controls the Arizona market through its In terms of sales volume, Jeff Green Partners completed a feasibility study that Phoenix-based Westcor subsidiary. It owns all the regional shopping centers in the projects the regional shopping center portion will be performing more than $400 in state, except for Arizona Mills, which is owned by Mills Corp. sales per square foot after the first year or two of operation when it reaches its “sta- In Arizona, Macerich owns 11 super regional shopping centers, three specialty bilization” point, meaning when there is enough critical mass, or gross space leased, retail centers and 22 power centers, for a total of 22 million square feet. Nine cen- to accurately measure performance. ters are in the Phoenix area. The power center portion is projected at $300 in sales per square foot, when it According to a Westcor statement: “SanTan Village will create a vibrant, sustain- reaches its stabilization point. able urban village designed on a human scale to create comfort and a sense of The mixed-use project is an open-air setting catering to families. The only belonging, and all elements will be connected to encourage pedestrian interaction.” enclosed area is the food court. The architects on the project are Omniplan of Dallas, and Ellerman & Schick, of Phoenix. The power center — including Bed Bath & Beyond, Circuit City, Costco, DSW, According to the developer, SanTan Village is distinctive not only because of its JoAnn Super Store, Marshalls, OfficeMax, Razmataz, Sam’s Club, Wal-Mart sheer enormity, but because it’s practically an entirely open-air project, whereas Supercenter and Ulta — has been opening in phases since last summer. Some of the typically other major Arizona projects are enclosed. stores are already conducting business. It’s also conceived as an “urban village that is designed to serve current resi- The regional center breaks ground in February and is expected to be open for dents, while accommodating continued growth and demand. The variety of retail business in fall 2007. uses provide more choices and flexibility to appeal to a variety of lifestyles.” Among the retailers signed on for the regional center are Chico’s, Coldwater Creek, There are also spaces and buildings that interconnect to create a sense of place, J. Jill, Lucy, White House|Black Market, Z Gallerie, Dillard’s and a Harkins Theater. and a design that allows consumers to easily navigate within the development, with Macerich still needs to confirm that Macy’s will move in. Macerich was counting on wide walkways, and bicycle accessibility, according to Macerich. Robinsons-May to move in. However, the retailer is a division of the former May Macerich said SanTan Village will serve a large geographical area from the Department Stores Co., which was taken over by Federated Department Stores Inc., Superstition Freeway (Highway 60) on the north, Arizona Avenue on the west, and and Federated is converting most May stores into Macy’s, leaving some uncertainty. into Pinal County to the southeast. Aside from seeking Macy’s, “We are trying to get an upscale grocer, a home fur- Gilbert has a population of 290,000 people, but is projected to grow to 425,250 peo- nishings player, and a big box sports player,” Gotsis said. “Right now the demand in ple by 2010; 525,000 by 2015, and 615,800 by 2020. In 2003, Gilbert was named the Gilbert is for middle-market and bridge retailers.” fastest-growing U.S. city based on Census Bureau figures. Each month, about 1,000 But, she added, SanTan Village is designed for flexibility and will adapt its retail new residents move in. mix as the community evolves. Macerich also said the trade area’s average household income is $70,994, and the SanTan Village is about 20 minutes southeast of Phoenix on the new 202 Freeway, median value for a new home is $207,000. The area is made up predominantly of and will also include some space for office and hotel use. young families, with 35 percent of the population between 25 and 44 years of age. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005 29

WWD.COM

● TAUBMAN SETS PAR- Parent will retire as chief operating officer on April 1 and his TRIDGE CREEK ANCHORS: responsibilities will be dispersed among other executives on Furniture IN THE WORKS Taubman Centers Inc. has the team. nabbed Nordstrom, Parisian and MJR Theatres to anchor Partridge The company also said Tom Frost will retire as executive vice Creek Fashion Park, an open-air president on Dec. 31, and that Stores Hit shopping center Taubman is devel- Gordon “Tad” Glenn has been oping in Clinton Township, Mich. named executive vice president The 600,000-square-foot center is and general counsel. Glenn is al- scheduled to open in fall 2007, with ready in the new post. The Malls Nordstrom opening in spring 2008. Glenn had been general counsel Partridge Creek Fashion Park, of The Rouse Co., which was taken Continued from page 27 located on a 55-acre site along the over by General Growth Properties Lord & Taylor and they south side of M-59 between Inc. During his 22 years at Rouse, will attract higher-end Garfield and Romeo Plank, also Glenn was responsible for a wide customers to the mall. will feature sit-down restaurants range of activities, including legal They will generate a lot of and up to 90 specialty retailers. oversight of the company’s devel- the traffic at the center.” opment and redevelopment activi- Other furniture stores ● EXEC CHANGES AT MILLS: ties, acquisitions, corporate com- are making their presence The Mills Corp. said Kenneth Nordstrom will anchor Partridge Creek Fashion Park in Michigan. pliance and securities law matters. felt in the area, which has added about 12,000 new homes since Wellington Green opened in 2001, Beermann said. Near the new City Furniture is Thomasville Furniture and Blackwelder’s Furniture; Norwalk Furniture is soon to be added to the market. The decision to move into a mall hasn’t forced sacrifices on retailers, ei- ther. According to Beermann, the City Furniture store will look much like its stand-alone stores, with furniture se- tups of bedrooms and Real estate “in the mall is incredibly advantageous for us. — Mary” Turschmann, Robb & Stucky living rooms, while the mall concourse on the upper level will extend into the store to create the effect of small storefronts. Robb & Stucky’s store in International Plaza “has the basic core philosophy” of other Robb & Stucky stores, said Turschmann, though it’s the first time the owners have had to manage several entrances to their store. “We try to design per our market, so we cater some of our merchandise to the younger customer that comes to the mall. But just by sheer square footage of our space, we can do more and put our best foot forward in all of our different lifestyles,” said Turschmann. “We cer- tainly have our eyes open for more real estate oppor- tunities like this.” They should be coming. “Af ter the success here, there’s no question that as we’re looking at new de- velopment now, we will look at furniture stores in our predevelopment strat- egy as anchors for malls,” said Weinert. “We’re con- sidering this for all future developments.” 28 The 79 WWD Book 6 4Listsof Over 1,000 entries — everything you ever wanted 3 to know about fashion, retail, luxury and global issues. 10 5 2005’s HOTTEST COLLECTION! Coated Stock Magazine: December 12 Close: November 17 THOMAS IANNACCONE,TURNER AND DAVID MITRA ROBERT

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The special event will honor some of the fashion world’s most prominent and accomplished authorities, with awards going to Kenneth Cole for Hall of Fame, Betsey Johnson for Some of the industry’s most renowned designers and Lifetime Achievement, Teri Agins of The Wall Street Journal celebrities will be honored for furthering awareness and use for The Marylou Luther Award for Fashion Journalism, Oscar of accessories at the 2005 Accessories Council 2005 de la Renta as Designer of the Year, Juicy Couture as Best Excellence Awards (ACE Awards). Brand Accessory Launch, Sean “Diddy” Combs as The awards dinner will take place at Cipriani 42nd Fashion Influencer, Jessica Simpson for Fashion Icon, Street, New York City on November 8, 2005. ACCESSORIES COUNCIL Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen for the ACE Award, In Style “We are thrilled to recognize these trend-setting indi- as Magazine of the Year and NeimanMarcus.com as viduals whose personal style epitomizes the fusion of Retailer of the Year. fashion and accessories,” said Karen Giberson, executive ACE AWARDS For ACE Award ticket information, call the director of the council. Accessories Council office at 212-947-1135.

A Decade of Growth: THE ACCESSORIES COUNCIL TAKES LEAD IN FASHION

The Accessories Council — which will present its annu- With the addition of new networking events featuring al ACE Awards Nov. 8, 2005 at Cipriani, 110 East 42nd speakers covering a range of industry topics, the Accessories St., New York City – is celebrating its tenth anniversary, and Council also will add new ways to generate additional atten- plans even more exciting new ventures for 2006, asserted tion for the industry, particularly for smaller members, new executive director Karen Giberson. Giberson added. The council also will seek innovative ways to (For ACE Award ticket information , call 212-947-1135.) raise funds for the Sheila Block Accessories Council Fund Accessories have increasingly taken the lead in fashion, she for Leukemia Research. noted. “Perhaps at one time, accessories followed fashion. “I am very exited about the opportunities we have at the But lately, women have been buying their accessories first, Council. We have an involved and creative board, and their and then planning the clothes (they will wear) around them.” support will be, and has been, so important to our growth. I Consumers’ love affair with accessories continues to am looking forward to 2006.” thrive, Giberson noted. “Accessories are fashion! They are a Deborah Miliotto, event manager, who has served with fun way to spice up any wardrobe. They allow you to express the Council for five years, noted membership had doubled your personality, and a quality item is an investment piece to and the group’s involvement with retailers, magazines and Bag by Oscar de la Renta your wardrobe. Plus, accessories always fit!” schools had grown substantially.

The council this year will introduce a special fund for Council Keeps Accessories leukemia research at Memorial Sloane Kettering in honor of Sheila Block, the council’s visionary who died in July. “I’m convinced that there would be no Accessories Council without the drive and unselfish commitment of Sheila. She was and will ON THE FRONT LINE remain the heart and soul of the council,” Greenhouse said. In keeping with Block’s vision, “the council is commit- Accessories Council board members have some big plans energies to helping young designers learn the ups and downs ted to aggressively continue to do as much to help the for future growth and development. of the business,” he noted. industry membership as possible,” he declared. “Changes are constant (in the accessories industry) and it is The council teams with members for an annual event at the The Accessories Council serves as a resource for all our responsibility to keep up with them and provide any advice Fashion Institute of Technology in New York to preview work of industry businesses, acting as a “center where information, and support to our membership,” observed Ira Greenhouse, accessory design graduates and awards checks to the best consumer awareness, marketing and networking can be chan- chairman of the board. collections. Some member companies give internships to neled,” observed Ed Jankowski, treasurer of the board, In addition to its annual ACE Awards, the council has helped graduates that turn into full-time positions, he added. Accessories Council. negotiate special advertising sections for members in popular The annual ACE Awards is “the industry’s premier event,” “Many fashion designers have added accessories to their publications and held roundtable discussions with industry Greenhouse asserted. The council is celebrating its 10th lines, and the high-end accessory business is on fire right now. experts on topics like the latest trends, the importance of brand- anniversary, “and (this year’s ACE Awards) promises to be the The importance of shoes, handbags, sunglasses and jewelry is ing and effective business practices. best to date. There will be an illustrious list of industry leaders evident in all of the fashion magazines, and celebrities are really Because the council is always looking forward, “many of from world class designers, top retailers as well as A-list our board members volunteer a great deal of their time and celebrities from the entertainment world attending.” CONTINUED TO ACE AWARDS PAGE 2

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battle with Leukemia on July 28, 2005. A prominent style expert, Block joined the Accessories THE ACCESSORIES COUNCIL CREATES Council in 1995 as executive director, and was appointed president in 2003. Council membership reached an all-time high under her influence. Block strengthened Accessories Council relationships with top fashion houses, retailers and publications, and was often featured in leading newspapers. She was a frequent speaker at the Fashion Institute of Technology where she spearheaded an awards program for accessory design students, and in 1996 was appointed Sheila Block by New York Mayor Rudolf Giuliani to the Commission on the Status of Women. LEUKEMIA RESEARCH FUND Dr. Stephen Nimer has been a hematologist for 19 years and worked at MSKCC conducting clinical and lab- oratory leukemia related research for over 12 years. The Accessories Council has announced formation of The council made a $50,000 commitment to raise Nimer’s laboratory investigates molecular defects that the Sheila Block Accessories Council Fund for Leukemia money for research under the direction of Dr. Stephen cause leukemia and he has isolated several genes Research, a new initiative with Memorial Sloan-Kettering Nimer for the fund, and will donate part of the proceeds to involved in blood formation. Cancer Center. it from its special events through the year. Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center is the world's “The council has long oldest and largest institution devoted to prevention, patient since wanted to be affiliated care, research and education in cancer. Sloan-Kettering with an organization which is specialists are leaders in biomedical research and in trans- extremely important, but also lating the latest research to advance the standard of cancer hits home for us,” noted Ira care worldwide. For information, go to www.mskcc.org. Greenhouse, chairman of the Donations to the fund can be sent to: Accessories Accessories Council Board Council, 390 Fifth Avenue, Suite 710, New York, NY 10018. of Directors. “Sheila Block, The Accessories Council, a non-for-profit national our former president, recently advocacy group, was formed in 1995 by accessory manu- lost her battle with leukemia facturers and retailers in order to unite a diverse industry and this has given us a way to and create a singular voice. The council addresses industry create a necessary fund while concerns and promotes accessories to the consumer. thinking of Sheila and others.” Membership includes major retailers across the country Block, a recognized and renowned brand and designer names. These members authority on fashion and comprise a large percentage of the $30 billion accessories Sheila Block with members of the Accessories Council accessories, lost a 6-month business in the United States.

Council Looks Back on Past, EMBRACES FUTURE OPPORTUNITIES

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 line of all fashion and celebrity publications and assure our awards come at a key time before the holiday shopping season. consumers are kept aware of the latest trends.” “We are a great gift item and alternative to spending a lot driving the trends,” he said. The Accessories Council is helping businesses deal with of money on large apparel ticket items. One can accessorize The council hopes to increase membership in the future by the changing retail landscape,” asserted Richard Rubin, themselves relatively inexpensively and look great.” hosting events like open call vendor days with major retailers Accessories Council board member. Block helped lay the foundation for and open call days with magazine fashion editors to further Rubin, who served as Accessories the council’s continued success, Rubin advance accessory exposure. Council president and treasurer, noted the acknowledged. “Sheila knew exactly “One of our main goals is to mentor and attract new tal- board of directors provides direction and where she wanted it to be, and it was ent in the industry,” he said. The council supports annual schol- commitment to the council. “But the real the role of the board to help her to arship programs with the Fashion Institute of Technology and thrust is we’re the sounding board for the get it to be there. It’s an elegant, pres- the Laboratory Institute of Merchandising. various things the council tries to execute. tigious industry and organization, and “We also hold many seminars throughout the year The real mission is to raise the awareness there was no limit to how high, suc- where guest speakers share their expertise in various and ultimately the consumption of women’s cessful and great the organization aspects of the industry with new members and start- fashion accessories through retail venues. Danskin’s Carol Hochman with could become in her mind,” he said. up accessory manufacturers.” “We've had to deal with the fact that Karen Giberson and Sheila Block “She would do anything and every- The council owes much of its success to Block, the retail landscape has been tremen- of the Accessories Council. thing to get this to the next level.” Greenhouse agreed. “She was relentless in her mission to dously consolidated," while the council's “The good news is that Karen make the Accessories Council an important influence in members represent every tier from mass to luxury, he noted. Giberson, who has been involved with the board for the industry. She was passionate, dedicated and a driv- The annual ACE Awards is one of the council’s largest many years, is available to pick up the ball and run ing force in all programs and accomplishments. She had and most effective productions because “any time you can with it, and I’m confident the council will not skip a a sense of style and flair like no other.” get publicity for accessories with celebrities, that’s what beat,” Rubin said. “The council will move forward and Today, the council aims “to keep accessories in the front younger people and consumers look at,” he said, noting the continue to build on Sheila’s dream.”

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FASHION ICON: Accessories Council 2005 ACE AWARDS Jessica Simpson

Jessica Simpson may be one of the most well known names in television and Designer of the Year magazines, but she may also soon be as popular for her apparel and accessories. OSCAR DE LA RENTA Vince Camuto, president and chief executive officer of Camuto Group, recently Presented by Patrick McCarthy bought the master license for the Jessica Simpson brands, which include Princy apparel, sold at all major retailers including: Dillards, Federated, May Company and Nordstrom and Jessica Simpson footwear, sold at all major retailers and every Hall of Fame Nordstrom store nationally. KENNETH COLE Q: WHY DOES JESSICA SIMPSON HAVE Presented by Terry Lundgren SUCH FASHION APPEAL?

A: JESSICA SIMPSON: I am every girl. I want my clothing Marylou Luther Award for Fashion Journalism to be accessible and fun, not too trendy but on target TERI AGINS with what girls for my Princy line and women for my Jessica Simpson line are really wearing from day to day. Presented by Tom Ford I do not want to create this over-the-top fashion attitude — it’s not my style and I don’t think that it is most ACE Award women’s (style). I want girls and women to feel com- fortable and confident wearing my products. That is MARY-KATE AND ASHLEY OLSEN the most important thing. Presented by Francisco Costa A: VINCE CAMUTO: Jessica is one of the most iconic celebrities of this time. She is one of the most Lifetime Achievement photographed women in the world and has such a unique, eclectic style for which she is known. BETSEY JOHNSON Presented by Patrick McMullan Jessica Simpson She represents the All-American girl image, which creates a seamless transition into design and fashion and is the ultimate expression of that attitude. Retailer of the Year Q: WHAT ARE PLANS FOR EXTENDING THE APPAREL LINE? NEIMANMARCUS.COM Presented by Massimo Ferragamo A: JESSICA SIMPSON: This is a lifestyle — Additional categories are planned and will continue to develop as the current businesses continue to grow.

My Princy line is fabulous! I love the denim — it is so comfortable and the cuts are interesting and Accessory Brand Launch unique. There are styles for every body type, and the knits are great too. I am still trying to get JUICY COUTURE some for myself — in more colors. (laughs.) Presented by Sandra Bernhard I am also excited about the Jessica Simpson line of apparel and products as well. I really have a clear vision of what that line needs to be: I believe there is a Magazine of the Year place in that market that needs to be filled. It’s all IN STYLE going to be about beautiful quality product that rep- resents comfort, confidence and fashion at the same time.

Fashion Icon The other categories we are looking at right now are JESSICA SIMPSON going to complement the entire lifestyle, and have the same common thread running through them in terms of brand mission.

Fashion Influencer A: VINCE CAMUTO: We see a clear division of brands SEAN “DIDDY” COMBS with Princy and Jessica Simpson. Princy has a target

CONTINUED TO ACE AWARDS PAGE 6 Vince Camuto

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ACE AWARD: Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen

Turn on the TV any time of the day, A: ASHLEY: I remember accessories becoming a part of my look when we were and chances are the Olsen Twins will filming our television show, Two of a Kind. What made our outfits so special was be on. that we were accessorized from head to toe. They may now be young adults, A: MARY-KATE: Ever since I can remember, picking out jewelry and accessories has but Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen been my favorite part of completing an outfit. have been influencing how young people dress since they were infants. Q: WHAT ACCESSORIES DO YOU LIKE AND PREFER? Both Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen revealed an interest in fashion at a A: MARY-KATE: Antique and vintage jewelry young age, and brought that passion A: ASHLEY: I have a weakness for shoes and bags because they can be timeless. to Dualstar Entertainment Group, Lately, I’ve been loving vintage suitcases and luggage. helping guide development of its apparel, home décor, beauty and Q: HOW COULD THE FASHION INDUSTRY BETTER ADDRESS STYLE NEEDS OF Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen YOUNGER WOMEN? other product lines. They made their television debut at nine months, sharing the role of Michelle Tanner A: MARY-KATE & ASHLEY: Don’t underestimate the younger woman’s taste. on the ABC hit TV series Full House. The two quickly established themselves as dominant Designers tend to lean towards the average, adult audience. Kids are savvy forces in children’s entertainment with the addition of other TV projects, home videos, — they know what they want and like! feature films and musical albums. Q: HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR OWN STYLE?

Q: HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT BEING HONORED BY THE ACCESSORIES COUNCIL? A: MARY-KATE: I would describe my style as vintage chic. I love A: MARY-KATE: It’s an honor to have been chosen for the Ace Award by the Accessories Council this vintage clothing, especially vintage year. I’ve always had a passion for accessories and think they can make any outfit. It’s fun to be recog- Chanel. My style changes every nized for something I love and that has always been such an important part of my everyday wear. day and usually reflects a mood A: MARY-KATE: It’s an honor to receive the Ace Award, especially considering its past recipients. I’m feeling or trying to accomplish. We are excited to be included in that group of trend setters. A: ASHLEY: To sum it up in three words: Chic, Vintage, Classic. Q: HOW LONG HAVE ACCESSORIES BEEN IMPORTANT TO YOU? Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen

FASHION ICON: Jessica Simpson

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 4

market of the tweens and teens, and is more playful and fun. Great embellished Q: WHAT WILL JESSICA’S INFLUENCE ON THE FASHION INDUSTRY BE? denim, with a variety of cuts and wovens perfect for wearing with denim, and some activewear that is so popular with that age group right now. A: JESSICA SIMPSON: I am not trying to influence fashion; I am trying to create something for women that is enduring, accessible and real. Don’t let my life fool The Jessica Simpson line is more in the young contemporary area, will be more mod- you — at heart, I am the girl next door who lives life to its fullest, and that is who I will ern, updated, fashion forward, but still grounded to achieve Jessica’s objective of cre- be thinking of in all my future creations! ating products that all women can wear, as well as items she herself is comfortable in. A: VINCE CAMUTO: In my mind, I think she will provide an enduring image that For future plans, we will be licensing other product categories in jewelry, swimwear, resonates with a large audience. She is the All-American girl, with a great twist. That home, lingerie, outerwear and various other categories for both Princy and Jessica will show through in all her designs. Simpson. All are viable with Jessica’s vision. We are thrilled to be a part of this brand and have a big future planned under the Jessica labels. Her influence on fashion is a fluid and forward style, with some reality peppered in.

6 ACCESSORIES COUNCIL ACE AWARDS

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RETAILER OF THE YEAR: NeimanMarcus.com

NeimanMarcus.com has totally redefined e-commerce, bringing the Q: WHY IS THE POPULARITY OF E-COMMERCE GROWING? world of luxury shopping to online consumers across the globe. Brendan Hoffman, president and ceo of Neiman Marcus Direct, A: Customers are becoming more and more comfortable with the security, the technology, commented on the company’s Internet success: the quality of goods and services, and the convenience. Once they have shopped with NeimanMarcus.com, they realize they have an entire Neiman Marcus store in which to shop at their convenience, 24 hours a day. It used to be that a customer had to Q: HOW DOES IT FEEL BEING SELECTED RETAILER OF THE YEAR? travel to a market where we had a store in order to experience all we had to offer. Today, we are able to take the Neiman Marcus store experience far beyond the A: We consider this a tremendous honor. One, for being the first website to be areas where we have stores and allow many more customers access to the finest so honored and secondly, for having been online for only six years. assortment of luxury goods available.

Q: HOW DOES NEIMANMARCUS.COM OFFER THE LARGEST COLLECTION OF DESIGNER AND LUXURY MERCHANDISE ON THE INTERNET?

A: Our buyers are continually reviewing what is available in the marketplace and selectively editing it with an eye toward what our online luxury customer desires. Our vendors and business partners know we can present luxury merchandise in a way that reflects the sophistication of the Neiman Marcus stores. In addition, our long-time experience and background in direct-to-consumer marketing gives us an advantage over other retailers.

Q: WHAT ARE FUTURE EXPANSION PLANS FOR NEIMANMARCUS.COM?

A: We will continue to add new designers and reflect upcoming trends. In addition, interest in our vendor site program is exceeding our expectations.

Q: HOW HAS NEIMANMARCUS.COM REDEFINED E-COMMERCE?

A: We have proven that there is a place for luxury on the web and that we can deliver the service and quality customers have come to expect from Neiman Marcus stores.

Q: WHAT FASHION PRODUCTS SELL BEST ONLINE? NeimanMarcus.com A: Actually, we haven’t found a category that doesn’t work online. Price doesn’t seem to be an issue. Fashion is selling well across the board.

FASHION INFLUENCER: Sean “Diddy” Combs

Sean “Diddy” Combs soared to the top of the guides everywhere. Combs also has released charts as a rap star and producer in the 90s to Unforgivable, a men’s fragrance, produced in con- become one of the music industry’s most talked- junction with Estée Lauder Cos. about and recognizable personalities. A few short This year, the Accessories Council will present an years and several well-publicized name changes ACE Award to Combs for Fashion Influencer of the later, Combs has embarked on yet another prosper- Year, solidifying his place among the industry’s top ous career move, this time as president and chief accessory trend-setters. In 2004, Combs designer of Sean John Clothing. received the Menswear Designer of the Year With a growing lineup of men and women’s cloth- award from the Council of Fashion Designers of ing and accessories, the brand and its founder have America, having been nominated for the honor quickly become a fixture fashion weeks and in style every year since 2000. Diddy

8 ACCESSORIES COUNCIL ACE AWARDS MAN 2005 ©D.YUR

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LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD: Betsey Johnson

For almost four decades, Betsey Johnson has built her career in fash- Q: HOW DOES IT FEEL WINNING THE ACCESSORIES COUNCIL’S LIFETIME ion by following her own set of rules. Known for her celebration of the ACHIEVEMENT AWARD? exuberant, embellished, and over-the-top, Betsey has rocked the fashion A: Getting this award just floors me! It is a shock to get a lifetime achievement award — industry with her unique and original designs since the 1960s. Here I am in this position of being a grandma in a few months, and I feel like…Wow! The year 2003 brought exciting licensing endeavors for the company, taking the Betsey Johnson label to new audiences with categories includ- So I’m just so happy that I’m being honored. I’m probably the oldest gal in town who’s ing shoes, legwear, lingerie and jeans. In 2004, she added handbags, considered a new name to the industry! belts and accessories including hats, scarves, wraps and ponchos, Q: WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE? emerging not only as acclaimed clothing designer, but as a top American lifestyle brand. A: I have (already) done a lot here and I’m continuing to add on more – the grandma A survivor of breast cancer, Betsey is a strong advocate in the fight phase being the most important! But (I also hope to continue) licensing and being able against the disease, making public appearances, participating in numer- to design all these products that I love . ous fund raising events and creating one-of-a-kind items that have been The licensing thing in all the accessory categories has really been the thrill of my design auctioned to raise funds for various charities. experience.

Q: WHAT DO YOU LIKE ABOUT CREATING ACCESSORIES?

A: In my own company, I kind of got the work down… but the licensing jobs are just so exciting: The new families that you work with, the collaborations you have, how you work as a team to come up with something really great that the Betsey Girl will love!

I think the lingerie and the bags (we’ve introduced) have been absolutely incredible. They have done way beyond what we dreamed they would do!

Q: HAVE YOU ENJOYED COLLABORATING WITH YOUR ACCESSORY LICENSES?

A: The collections were just so great. I thank the design teams behind each licensing company, because I act as the little inspirational spirit, but it’s the great collaboration between the design teams these companies have.

We have a schedule of probably 12 very important meetings over the year where I work with every single licensing design team about direction, the essence of what it should be, how it goes from A to B to C to D… how you keep a collection going. Everybody bounces off my own collections — the color stories and trim story — because I have to work a good six months early.

I always have my collection ready in time to inspire and illustrate to the licensing people where I’m at and how it all relates; whether its shoes, sunglasses, watches, bags, belts or lingerie, it can all flow from the general vibe that I’ve got going in my collection. It’s just been so amazing!

Q: WHY ARE ACCESSORIES NOW SO IMPORTANT?

A: Ever since “Sex and the City” I think the accessory has become more important. Accessories have shown to every woman what she can do with one little black or pink polka dot dress.

Between her bags her shoes, her stockings, her watches and her jewelry – all of that stuff – accessories involve choices. They give a personal touch.

Picking the dress is easy; but what shoes, what bag, what necklace (do you choose)? It allows the decision of what you wear with what, and is an expression of personal style, likes and dislikes.

I always love how special and different — like snowflakes — people can be. You can take one dress, but it’s the accessories chosen by the girl wearing that dress, that keep it alive, keep her personal taste and personal looks going. I think it’s the accessories that make the look happen! Betsy Johnson CONTINUED TO ACE AWARDS PAGE 12

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HALL OF FAME: Kenneth Cole

For over 20 years, Kenneth Cole, Q: WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO ACCOMPLISH IN THE NEXT 20 YEARS? founder of Kenneth Cole Productions, has brought new inspiration to footwear A: For the next 20 years, I hope to stay relevant and offer product and timely mes- sages to our customers. and accessories, and social relevance to the fashion industry. Q: HOW DO YOU FEEL BEING SELECTED TO ENTER THE ACCESSORIES After starting his business 20 years COUNCIL’S HALL OF FAME? ago from the back of a 40 foot trailer, Kenneth Cole believes “it is great to be A: Old and grateful. known for your shoes. It is even better to be recognized for your soul.” Q: HOW DID YOUR FATHER, CHARLES COLE, FOUNDER OF With over 50 retail stores across the EL GRECO FOOTWEAR – FOUNDER OF CANDIES SHOES — INFLUENCE YOUR FASHION EDUCATION AND DIRECTION? country and worldwide, Cole united his fashion instincts and business experi- A: My father was a business person who taught me Kenneth Cole ence with his philanthropic convictions. the practical implications of the fashion business. As chairman of the American Foundation for AIDS Research, Cole has made it his responsibility to fuse fashion Q: HOW DO SHOES AND ACCESSORIES with social action. He is also a board member of the Council of IMPACT FASHION TODAY? Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and serves on the Board of Trustees for Emory University. A: Shoes and accessories are as defining as any fashion item. They affect how you look and how you feel. Q: HOW HAVE CONSUMERS' ACCESSORY TASTES AND PREFERENCES EVOLVED AND CHANGED? Q: WHAT DO YOU THINK YOU MAY BE MOST REMEMBERED FOR? A: People today are more practical in their choices and yet, at the same time, I think that women have become more daring and are not scared to break any rules. A: I would like to be remembered for having Women today will wear flip flops with a sundress and then throw on a pair of heels to tried, with perhaps questionable results, go out that evening. A cool sneaker to be worn with skirts or pants, strappy stilettos, for marrying fashion with a social message. embroidered boots; All could be found in a woman's wardrobe. Bag by Kenneth Cole

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD: Betsey Johnson CONTINUED FROM PAGE 10

Q: IS THERE FUTURE In your own company, you’ve been around a long time and are taken for LICENSING GROWTH granted… but it’s really nice to have more collaborations continue. FOR BETSEY JOHNSON? Q: WHAT ARE CONSUMERS LOOKING FOR TODAY? A: I now have around 10 licenses and I know we’re going to add A: They expect and are looking for a huge variety. The trends come as fast more. So that’s going to keep me as the old Andy Warhol line that everyone will be famous for 15 minutes. pretty hopping! Home could be Now I think it’s down to 15 seconds! a big (growth) area for me that people are just dying for, and per- What’s so great now is the choices in every single area of clothing and fume, cosmetics, beauty products, accessories. No one thing rules – it’s a free-for-all and the great thing is outerwear…and I guess there are a women are smart and really know “this can go with that, that can go few other categories left. with this!”

That’s exciting because you get They are free to be and do what they want to. Now, nothing makes you to feel like a “Queen For a Day” blink, it’s all good, it’s all available, it’s all up to the consumer, and where working with your licensing people. she wants to take it and how she wants to fix it. Betsey Johnson

12 ACCESSORIES COUNCIL ACE AWARDS

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ACCESSORY BRAND LAUNCH: Juicy Couture

Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela Taylor have juiced up the accessory world. The founders of Juicy Couture, which is owned by Liz Claiborne Inc., continue to epitomize West Coast style. Founded in 1994 as an upscale T-shirt brand, the Los Angeles firm added denim and sportswear, signature low- riding drawstring pants, form-fitting zip-up Bag by Juicy Couture hoodies, men’s and children's collections and has now successfully moved onto acces- sories like jewelry and handbags. Q: WHY WAS JUICY COUTURE’S INTRODUCTION OF ACCESSORIES SO WELL RECEIVED? Q: HOW HAS JUICY COUTURE CHANGED THE ACCES- A: Our stuff stands out. It has real personality SORIES MARKET? that speaks to fashion trends, as opposed to just accessories trends. A: Accessories are fun to buy, fun to wear, fun to think about. So we’ve put all this fun and energy into every We swagged our bags in jewels because cool shoe and bag and piece of jewelry we’ve designed. Pamela Skaist-Levy girls everywhere right now love jeans and vintage baubles. As they should.

Q: HOW ARE ACCESSORIES SPECIAL TO PAM AND GELA?

A: Juicy Couture began with T-shirts, then jeans. The way you make T’s and jeans look amazing is to wear them with the right bag or the best heel. In California, clothes are casual, but accessories are anything but. So two California girls like ourselves have accessories in our blood.

Or is it in our bones? Gela Taylor Q: WHAT ARE PAM AND GELA'S PERSONAL TASTES AND PREFERENCES IN ACCESSORIES?

A: We love anything that has real style and design backing it up. It can be the most beautiful classic French framed handbag; it can be the hippest grooviest, unstructured tote. It’s got to look like nothing more than itself.

Accessories junkies know the difference between the right pump and just another high heel. Happily, we fall into this category of addicts.

Q: WHY ARE JUICY ACCESSORIES SO UNIQUE, INDIVIDUAL AND DIFFERENT?

A: Juicy accessories are unique in the sense that Juicy clothes are unique: They go hand-in-hand, and the sensibility is the just the same. (For) a girl who’s chic, cheeky, directional, and supremely confident. Our stuff is most confident stuff out there.

Q: WHAT IS YOUR INSPIRATION IN ACCESSORIES DESIGN?

A: We’re inspired by the glitter and the casualness of LA life. This is a city where one minute you’re wearing the most decadent platform sandals, and an hour later you’re poolside in a terry-cloth flip-flop. The history here is also inspiring — you feel the 20s and the 40s here like nowhere else. We love the craftsmanship and personality of vintage pieces, and we hope that our designs will someday resonate with as-yet-unborn stylish girls.

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DESIGNER OF THE YEAR Oscar de la Renta

Born in 1932 in Santo Domingo, Designer of the Year, Oscar de la Renta, studied in Madrid and movedto France in the 1960s, becoming acclaimed known for his luxuri- ous clothing, eveningwear and use of extravagant materials. Specializing in romantic and opulent styling, Shoes by Oscar de la Renta de la Renta’s collections range from bathing suits to wedding dresses, furs, fragrances, Q: WHICH ACCESSORIES DO YOU MOST LIKE DESIGNING? linens and accessories. Oscar de la Renta left his native Dominican A: I’ve had great fun designing all the accessories in my collection - shoes, bags, belts, Republic at age 18 to study painting at the and now my most recent addition, jewelry. Academy of San Fernando in Madrid, and Q: WHAT IS YOUR PERSONAL MESSAGE TO WOMEN IN YOUR ACCESSORY DESIGNS? after becoming interested in the world of design he began sketching for leading A: My accessory designs allow women to achieve and express their desired look. Spanish fashion houses, leading to an Just as with my ready-to-wear designs, I want women to feel their most beautiful apprenticeship with Spain’s renowned while wearing Oscar de la Renta. couturier, Cristóbal Balenciaga. Q: WHY ARE ACCESSORIES SO IMPORTANT TO WOMEN TODAY? Oscar de la Renta In 1965, he began his signature ready- to-wear label. A: Accessories can really make or break an outfit, the right shoe or bag can make all To complement the signature ready-to-wear designs, his Fall 2001 runway the difference. show marked the debut of Oscar de la Renta Accessories, which included bags, belts, and shoes. International recognition has included honors by the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America), where he also served as president. He is two-time winner of the Coty American Fashion Critic’s Award, and was inducted into the Coty Hall of Fame in 1973. The Dominican Republic honored its native son as one of its most distin- guished citizens, he received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Hispanic Heritage Society, and in 2000 received the Gold Medal of Bellas Artes from the King of Spain.

Q: WHAT IS YOUR INSPIRATION IN DESIGNING ACCESSORIES?

A: For years, I had been designing ready-to-wear for the runway, and found that I needed my own accessories to create the total Oscar de la Renta look. Accessories now play an essential role in my collections, receiving the same attention to detail as my clothing. Evening Bags by Oscar de la Renta

Isabella Fiore

congratulates The Neiman Marcus Online team on Retailer of the Year ADVERTISEMENT

MAGAZINE OF THE YEAR: In Style

In Style, a celebrity, lifestyle and A: In Style has always focused on the reader. We think about who she is, what her life fashion magazine, was launched is like, and what will inspire her. in June 1994 by Time Inc. and Q: WHAT HAS THE ACCESSORY MARKET MEANT FOR IN STYLE? within 11 years has emerged as one of the most successful maga- A: Since our launch, accessories have been a huge area of interest for us — and zines on newsstands today. In our readers. After all, the right bag or a gorgeous pair of shoes can lift an outfit In Style Magazine Style takes a fun attitude towards — and your spirits — instantly. style in all its forms, with special issues, international editions, television programming, books and InStyle.com with Q: WHAT ARE CONSUMERS SEEKING TODAY IN FASHION AND ACCESSORIES? more than one million users per month. A: Our readers want to know what's new, and what's next. They're smart and stylish, but they still want help putting it all together. Inspiration and information is what they're after. Q: HOW DOES IT FEEL TO BE NAMED THE ACCESSORIES COUNCIL'S MAGAZINE OF THE YEAR? Q: WHAT WILL BE NEW FOR IN STYLE IN THE NEW YEAR? A: It’s great to be recognized for the outstanding work our editors do each and every month covering the accessories market. A: Our ninth international edition will launch; a weddings book will be published end of 05/early 06; seven special issues (four In Style Weddings, two In Style Q: WHY HAS IN STYLE BEEN SO SUCCESSFUL AT A TIME WHEN OTHER PUBLICATIONS ARE NOT? Home, Makeover); and In Style Celebrity Weddings will air on ABC in January. ADVERTISEMENT

MARYLOU LUTHER AWARD FOR FASHION JOURNALISM:

Teri Agins, THE WALL STREET JOURNAL

Teri Agins is senior special writer at The Wall Street Journal, covering Q: HOW IS THE ACCESSORIES retailing and the fashion industries. Past awards include the 2004 Eugenia INDUSTRY CHANGING? Sheppard Award by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. (CFDA). A: In the 1990s, accessories, handbags, Her book, "The End of Fashion: The Mass Marketing of the Clothing shoes, watches and sunglasses became Business," was published by William Morrow & Company. the stars of fashion, the focal point of design houses whose fortunes turned on a Q: WHAT IS YOUR REACTION TO WINNING THE ACCESSORIES COUNCIL'S dress silhouette or hemline. As casual MARYLOU LUTHER AWARD FOR FASHION JOURNALISM? dress codes took over in the 1990s, and everyone was wearing the same khakis A: Marylou has been a tireless pioneer in fashion journalism for many years, and and knit tops, consumers needed a new I’m thrilled to be the first journalist to receive this award named in her honor. way to show off. Back then, accessories were an afterthought for most women This also is recognition the fashion industry values the unique role the Wall Street wedded to fashion’s casual, minimalism Journal has brought to the fashion discussion. I have spent 16 of my 21 years at the look, and satisfied owning a few pairs of Journal developing the fashion beat – writing about trends, designers and retailers, black or brown shoes and matching hand- always analyzing them through the prism of business. That makes for rich, great bags. storytelling. But designers from Louis Vuitton to Gucci This is a multibillion dollar global industry full of innovative entrepreneurs and to Prada to Coach and others found a way corporate intrigues. I admire their obsession and creativity. Teri Agins to make us covet purple shoes or a green handbag, and keep replacing them every few months! Q: WHAT DO YOU FIND INTRIGUING ABOUT FASHION INDUSTRY BUSINESS CONDITIONS? The fact a working woman on a $60,000 salary will splurge $500 on a pair of shoes or $800 on a handbag, and has a wardrobe of watches, is pretty amazing. A: The fashion business has gone through radical shifts over the last decade with the Design houses have been innovative in their ability to come up with new accessory advent of casual dressing, retail consolidation, cheap-chic, the globalization of fashion styles every season and compel consumers to buy them, thanks to their arresting and the rise of accessories as a focal point. advertising and marketing campaigns and memorable logos. Fashion more than ever is a rigorous marketing exercise where big conglomerates Q: HOW DO ACCESSORIES ALLOW WOMEN TO CHANGE rule and competition is fierce. I explored a lot of this in my 1999 book, “The End of A LOOK AT AFFORDABLE PRICES? Fashion”, which is still in print and used in many university marketing courses.

It’s the end of fashion as we knew it. Fashion used to turn on planned obsolescence, A: Stylish accessories at every price range are now available, so every consumer can with clothes going in and out of style every few years. participate.

But now many styles peacefully co-exist, forcing the industry to come up with Q: WHAT IS THE GROWTH POTENTIAL OFFERED BY ACCESSORY FIRMS? new ways to keep people shopping. The industry has become more complex and dynamic as businesses have become so huge, so democratic and so heavily A: As fashion houses have become bigger and more dependent on generating influenced by pop culture. steady profits and no longer can rely on clothing to go in and out of style, accessories have become a modern solution to an industry dependent on trends. In the 1980s, who would have ever guessed affluent consumers would be buying fashion at stores like Wal-Mart and Target? Who would have ever believed sane It’s no wonder every fledgling designer or fashion house is in a rush to come out with a people would be willing to spend $300 for a pair of jeans! line of accessories in order to make their brands relevant to modern consumers. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005 49 WWD.COM Financial Analysts See Some Solid Retail Stocks

By Meredith Derby Cowen & Co. cautioned in a re- “Investors are too impa- growing 10 percent annually. cited by Wall Street as a stock to cent report. She thinks sales at tient,” Wilsey said in a recent Morningstar analyst Kim buy. Nordstrom is expected to NEW YORK — Although holiday Gap will pick up in the second interview. Picciola agreed with Wilsey. “Wal- continue to grow its store base. sales may not be as robust as last half of 2006 and cited the firm’s The tail end of 2005 is shaping Mart is a dominant force in retail- Nordstrom has also struck a year, equity analysts say several “strong foundation,” including up as a good time to buy shares of ing. Its massive scale improves chord with teens, according to a retail offerings would make “solid cash flow generation and good stocking stuffers. But plan ongoing cash distribution to Retailing stocks usually outperform the broader ahead, because now is the time shareholders.” to buy. Brent Wilsey, president of market during the upcoming holiday fourth quarter. Consumer stocks have Wilsey Asset Management in San moved lower over the past two- Diego, admitted investors likely Wal-Mart Stores Inc. At about operating leverage and leverage recent Piper Jaffray survey. and-a-half months due partially won’t see Gap’s stock move much $45, the stock is trading near a over suppliers,” she said on a late For about $33.50, shares of to fears about high gas and en- in the short term, but he said the five-year low, but at only around September conference call. She Nordstrom are trading at about 16 ergy prices (spurred by stock is solid with a low debt-to- 15 times expected 2006 EPS of $3. sees it being a leading retailer in times expected 2006 EPS of $2.12. Hurricanes Rita and Katrina), equity ratio. Wilsey said the Wilsey is bullish on Wal-Mart, the next five years. Klinefelter said that price is un- but the lower prices create an shares could reach $20 to $25 saying it’s important to note that In the department store realm, dervalued and thinks the stock attractive entry point for sever- over the next two to three years. the retailer’s revenues have been Nordstrom has consistently been could eventually reach $42 a share. al stocks with strong long-term fundamentals, according to ana- lysts. And while the S&P Retail Index is down 11 percent since late July, it’s up 5 percent over this time last year. Retailing stocks usually out- perform the broader market dur- ing the upcoming holiday fourth quarter. Robert Buchanan of A.G. Edwards & Sons Inc. expects av- erage earnings to rise 13 percent for retailers during the quarter, versus an estimated 7 percent av- erage earnings rise for the firms that make up the S&P 500. In the spirit of Warren Buf- fett-style investing — which urges buying and holding under- priced securities for the long term — Wall Street is recom- mending a handful of stocks in the three major retail sectors. These include specialty retailers Abercrombie & Fitch Co. and Gap Inc., discounter Wal-Mart Stores Inc. and luxury depart- ment store chain Nordstrom Inc. Analysts like Abercrombie & Fitch because its three main brands — Abercrombie, Hollister and Ruehl — are ex- pected to garner strong comps through the holiday season, in part because the retailer is seen as a major gift-giving destina- tion. At about $50, the shares are trading at only around 13 times the full-year 2006 earnings-per- share consensus estimate of $3.88, which shows that the shares have room to grow. Indeed, about three months ago the shares hit a 52-week intra- day high of $74.10. Senior analyst Jeffrey Kline- felter of Piper Jaffray has a $78 price target on shares of Aber- crombie. He wrote in a recent research report that the compa- ny’s shares could eventually trade at 20 times his 2006 EPS estimate of $3.90 due to expect- ed “high-single-digit square- footage growth, a mid- to high- single digit comp and modest in- cremental store-distribution ex- pense leverage over the next several quarters.” Gap Inc., which has under- performed on a comp-store sales basis over the past year, is trad- ing around $16. This is almost 12 St. Eve is known for pajamas that are fun, comfortable, and affordable. times estimated full-year 2006 EPS of $1.40. So the company’s CIT is known for providing factoring and financing solutions stock is cheap, and ripe for the that help businesses rest easy. No wonder we’re such a perfect fit. picking, analysts say. The shares To learn more, call (800) 248-3240. We see what you see.® hit a 52-week intraday low of $15.90 on Oct. 19, and are trading near a two-year low. © 2004 CIT Group Inc. CIT, the CIT logo, “We see what you see” and “c it” are service marks or registered service marks of CIT Group Inc. However, patience would be the key to holding shares of Gap, analyst Lauren Levitan of SG 50 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005 WWD.COM Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT Tommy Wholesale Seen Weakening HIGH LOW P/E (00’S) LAST CHANGE RETAILERS 74.10 36.31Abercrombie Abercrombie & & Fitch Fitch 18.3 141747 49.97 0.41 Continued from page one 35.46 18.23Aéropostale Aeropostale 13.2 61684 19.77 1.25 Corporate earnings before interest, taxes, 34.04 19.03American American Eagle Eagle Outfitters 12.6 121715 23.18 0.02 28.75 19.98Ann Ann Taylor Taylor 68.7 47378 24.59 0.16 depreciation and amortization over that same 30.97 11.48Bebe Bebe 21.8 33538 16.26 -0.14 period are expected to drop to around $7 million 3.59 1.20Bluefly Bluefly - 6354 1.67 -0.03 from nearly $40 million this year. 23.22 10.62Bon-Ton Bon-Ton 13.6 4771 17.45 -0.57 44.08 21.02Burlington Burlington Coat Coat 15.5 6109 37.90 0.87 In 2004, EBITDA in the wholesale area — which 18.53 10.90Caché Cache 23.3 10921 15.19 0.21 is around a $1 billion business — was more than PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTO BY 22.27 14.87Cato Cato 15.8 10319 20.35 0.57 $100 million. This year, that figure drops tenfold, 17.90 8.84Charlotte Charlotte Russe Russe 49.2 28830 17.02 -0.24 12.34 7.00Charming Charming Shoppes Shoppes 16.2 47780 11.01 0.73 according to one insider who has seen the book. 41.67 18.41Chico’s Chico's FAS FAS 40.5 69953 39.07 1.34 Men’s wholesale volume, which was approxi- 52.94 28.00Children’s Children's Place Place 31.1 27815 39.26 2.03 mately $200 million in 2004, will drop by more 31.60 20.86CVS CVS 20.9 312096 26.13 1.15 31.35 20.38Deb Deb Shops Shops 15.9 2175 25.29 2.52 than 50 percent to less than $100 million by the 28.60 18.77Dillard’s Dillard's 14.6 43839 20.14 0.20 end of fiscal 2006. Women’s and children’s sales 22.80 17.75Dollar Dollar General General 18.2 97946 19.41 0.52 are also projected to fall and “young men’s dis- 26.77 15.19Dress Dress Barn Barn 14.4 25286 25.29 0.79 appears,” the insider said. 59.21 30.78eBay eBay 52.9 1220437 39.29 -0.41 35.25 19.40Family Family Dollar Dollar 17.3 102634 21.96 0.33 Wholesale sales are projected to grow, how- 78.05 46.00Federated Federated 13.5 112148 61.01 -3.04 ever, in Europe and Canada, along with the out- 29.95 18.75Foot Foot Locker Locker 11.7 40414 20.13 0.24 let business. 23.75 15.90Gap Gap 11.7 234120 16.34 0.16 11.10 6.66Goody’s Goody's - 22768 8.82 0.52 “Most books project growth, even if it’s not 12.45 5.80Gottschalks Gottschalks 19.2 750 8.45 -0.03 accountable,” said one investment banker famil- 26.43 11.58Guess Guess 29.1 27671 25.78 1.02 iar with the Hilfiger numbers. “I’ve never seen a 2.10 0.65Harold’s Harold's Stores Stores - 191 0.80 -0.08 23.49 13.51Hot Hot Topic Topic 18.9 39077 14.54 -0.34 book that projects down.” 57.99 34.03J.C. J.C. Penney Penney 17.8 163979 50.02 -0.07 Two weeks ago, the company released prelim- 58.90 45.09Kohl’s Kohl's 20.5 153205 47.16 -0.44 inary financial results because of an accounting 27.89 18.90Limited Limited Brands Brands 14.3 83876 19.14 -0.51 18.66 6.72Mothers Mothers Work Work 34.5 701 8.03 0.07 restatement. For the fiscal year 2005 that ended 100.98 57.58Neiman Neiman Marcus Marcus - 0 99.98 0.00 in March, the firm said preliminary net income 24.41 11.78New New York York & & Co. Co. 13.3 6809 11.90 -0.34 was $86 million, or 93 cents a diluted share. It 37.96 19.82Nordstrom Nordstrom 19.6 125889 33.66 0.75 added that it expects the restatements to reduce 29.05 20.33Pacific Pacific Sunwear Sunwear 15.7 61875 23.64 0.30 46.88 33.86Regis Regis 24.6 9914 36.18 -0.20 fiscal-year 2004 net income to $131 million from 14.34 6.02Retail Retail Ventures Ventures - 11870 9.35 0.15 $132 million, and to increase the net loss for fis- 31.37 22.34Ross Ross Stores Stores 20.7 87361 25.98 0.28 cal-year 2003 to $518 million from $513 million. 24.64 11.71Saks Saks 24.9 70438 16.55 -0.05 163.50 84.51Sears Sears 9.8 172450 121.74 6.07 Hilfiger recently retained J.P. Morgan Chase to 28.50 16.05ShopKo ShopKo 16.8 47986 28.36 2.63 try to sell the company. Among those said to be 32.07 22.20Stage Stage Stores Stores 13.1 10759 26.55 0.46 interested is Wal-Mart, which is considering a bid. 26.47 15.31Stein Stein Mart Mart 16.3 14312 18.69 -1.14 15.80 10.25Syms Syms 35.5 603 13.65 0.44 While Wal-Mart’s interest in the brand initially was 35.34 24.91Ta Talbotslbots 14.2 41311 25.80 0.45 greeted with skepticism, the investment banker 60.00 45.55Tar Targetget 22.9 288439 54.64 1.15 said he now gives the world’s largest retailer a “50- 25.96 19.95TJX TJX Cos. 16.1 168241 20.70 -0.30 9.69 2.61United United Retail Retail Group Group - 2404 8.96 0.50 50 chance,” and said it was likely Wal-Mart would 31.77 18.54Urban Urban Outfitters Outfitters 44.3 71863 31.44 1.92 work with someone else to purchase Hilfiger. 57.89 42.31Wa Wal-Martl-Mart 18.0 707794 45.72 0.68 Fred Gehring, chief executive officer of 7.04 1.35We Wett Seal Seal - 18055 4.70 0.31 Tommy Hilfiger Europe, had joined hedge fund 7.30 2.44Wilsons Wilsons Leather Leather 2.0 6279 5.34 -0.36 34.42 25.50Zale Zale 13.0 12978 27.16 -0.03 Apax Partners this past summer in a possible bid Tommy Hilfiger and Amerie in Milan. VENDORS for all of Hilfiger. There are differing views as to 56.31 41.70Alberto Alberto Culver Culver 19.6 16636 42.26 -0.36 the state of that bid; some describe Gehring and exclusively with Federated in spring 2004. 45.66 25.87Avon Avon 13.1 86368 26.63 -0.39 26.76 17.56Benetton Benetton 26.2 76 20.31 -0.70 Apax as the front-runners, while others say they Still, executives believe there is a lot of life left 37.87 25.68Cherokee Cherokee 16.1 1253 32.94 0.45 may no longer be working together. Gehring, who in the label. For several months, a new team has 36.42 19.76Coach Coach 30.8 127505 32.26 1.80 was in Milan last Thursday to celebrate the offi- been working on the redesign of the product and 62.18 41.90Columbia Columbia Sprtswr Sprtswr 13.2 9358 44.26 -0.85 26.50 20.00Elizabeth Elizabeth Arden Arden 15.3 10105 21.11 0.60 cial opening of the Hilfiger store there, declined the development of the three freestanding stores 47.50 33.65Estée Estee Lauder Lauder 18.9 52775 33.76 -1.45 to comment. scheduled to open in the first quarter of next year. 32.05 15.63Fossil Fossil 12.5 24343 16.25 0.02 When asked if European sales could compen- The first will be a 5,500-square-foot space in 11.89 5.69G-III G-III 31.3 776 10.35 -0.07 43.20 33.03IFF IFF 16.5 21949 33.10 -0.90 sate for the expected drop in U.S. wholesale busi- Tysons Corner in Vienna, Va., on Feb. 2, followed 21.80 12.61Inter Inter Parfums Parfums 22.9 5474 16.90 -1.05 ness, Tommy Hilfiger responded: “Europe and by North Park Center in Dallas later in February 37.48 26.47Jones Jones Apparel Apparel 11.9 33279 26.88 -0.15 Asia are doing fantastic. We’re rebuilding and Oak Brook Center in Chicago in March. 36.17 22.97Kellwood Kellwood - 13547 23.15 -0.85 America and there are signs of success as we The company plans to open 10 to 12 H Hilfiger 35.29 24.66Kenneth Kenneth Cole Cole 14.8 3137 27.01 -0.18 43.82 34.15Liz Liz Claiborne Claiborne 12.6 32976 37.37 -0.76 become more focused. We’re no longer just a stores by the end of next year. The goal is 20 6.20 2.98Mossimo Mossimo 17.0 190 4.95 0.01 purely American brand. It’s all about retail in stores in three years, and down the road, 200 20.38 15.24Movado Movado 15.8 5292 17.21 -0.07 Europe, not wholesale, so we’re all over Holland stores globally, said Michele Parsons, general 92.43 75.10Nike Nike 16.5 70994 83.48 1.78 51.68 33.34Oxford Oxford 14.6 14698 50.02 1.65 and Germany, and are looking to open in merchandise manager for the brand. 16.25 9.52Perfumania Perfumania 8.8 111 11.50 -1.89 Florence, Rome and Paris. Young people world- The relaunch of H Hilfiger is a step toward 26.48 18.20Perry Perry Ellis Ellis 8.8 1517 20.81 0.70 wide love preppie classic, but with an edge, and more new business opportunities for Tommy 35.38 21.67Phillips-Van Phillips-Van Heusen Heusen 16.1 38450 29.46 1.06 53.25 34.19Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 23.3 27134 52.37 1.63 that’s what we’re giving them — great quality and Hilfiger Corp. The $1.8 billion firm also plans to 18.12 10.63Quiksilver Quiksilver 13.0 182103 10.68 -2.43 great prices in Europe.” launch the Karl Lagerfeld contemporary men’s 57.75 35.09Reebok Reebok 16.1 36139 57.42 -0.08 Back in the U.S., Hilfiger is looking to the and women’s collections in February for fall 2006 4.29 1.96Revlon Revlon - 30204 2.98 0.10 revival of its H Hilfiger label for future growth retailing. Just last week, the 20-year-old company 21.84 12.82Russell Russell 9.7 12120 12.97 -0.10 26.24 15.69Steve Steve Madden Madden 32.1 6186 24.99 0.00 opportunities. The label was pulled this year cut about 135 U.S.-based employees as part of its 4.22 0.76Tarr Tarrantant - 10730 2.03 -0.16 from the 120 Federated Department Store doors initiative to align the cost structure of its U.S. 18.76 8.47T Tommyommy Hilfiger Hilfiger 13.4 22554 16.00 -0.16 where it was sold. It is being reinvented as a wholesale business. U.S. wholesale revenue for 18.25 2.55Tr Trueue Religion Religion Apparel Apparel 23.7 16462 13.40 0.23 61.61 49.30VF VF Corp. Corp. 12.2 26591 53.65 -1.60 more high-end lifestyle label developed for the first quarter dropped 29.4 percent to $115 25.88 19.21Wa Warnacornaco 17.7 16516 21.39 0.90 Hilfiger’s own stores, with the eventual goal of million from $163 million in the year-ago period. becoming a 200-unit global chain. Company exec- — With contributions by Julee Greenberg, utives said this was the initial plan for the H New York, and Courtney Colavita WWDStock Market Index Weekly % Changes brand before it switched gears and was launched and Amanda Kaiser, Milan (ending Oct. 21)

Largest Gainers Close Change Deb Shops 25.29 11.07 Boland Named to Sag Harbor Post Composite: Retailers: Vendors: ShopKo 28.36 10.22 1051.63 1058.43 968.43 Charming Shoppes11.01 7.10 NEW YORK — Fran Boland has been named recently, she was vice president of design for Wet Seal 4.70 7.06 president of sales and marketing at Sag Harbor, Tommy Hilfiger’s women’s division, prior to Aéropostale 19.77 6.75 a division of Kellwood Co. which she was vice president of design for the Liz She takes over the responsibilities of John Sport and Liz & Co. brands for Liz Claiborne Inc. Henderson, who retired as Sag Harbor president Mellin succeeds Marina Pappas, who has re- Largest Losers Close Change 11.22 12.16 4.49 in July. tired as senior vice president of design after 30 Quiksilver 10.68 -18.54 Most recently, Boland was vice president of years with the firm. Pappas was Sag Harbor’s Perfumania 11.50 -14.12 sales and merchandising for Norton first designer when it began in 1975. Harold’s Stores .80 -9.09 McNaughton, before which she held various sen- Boland, based here, reports to Paul Robb, Tarrant 2.03 -7.31 ior-level posts at Bernard Chaus Inc. and Liz chief executive officer of Sag Harbor, and Index base of 1000 is keyed to Wilsons Leather 5.34 -6.32 Claiborne Inc. Mellin reports to Neva Turi, executive vice pres- closing prices of Dec. 31, 2002. In a related move, Nisa Mellin has joined Sag ident of design and merchandising. Harbor as senior vice president of design. Most — Lisa Lockwood LIMITED WWD DNR AVAILABILITY CEOSUMMIT Nov. 2–4, 2005, The Ritz-Carlton Battery Park, New York

A peer-to-peer meeting for CEOs managing the challenge of change Including:

Vera Wang Robert Polet Myron E. Ullman III Eric C. Wiseman Vera Wang Bridal House Ltd. Gucci Group NV J.C. Penney Company Inc. VF Corp.

Claudio Del Vecchio Mindy Grossman David Lauren Matteo Marzotto Retail Brand Alliance Inc. Nike Inc. Polo Ralph Lauren Valentino SpA

Nicolas Ghesquière Gregory Scott Ronald B. Johnson Marjorie Yang Balenciaga SA bebe stores inc. Apple Retail Esquel Group

Also including: Terri L. Kelly, W.L. Gore & Associates, Inc.; Kevin Roberts, Saatchi & Saatchi; Susan Lyne, Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia Inc.; David M. Spooner, Office of the United States Trade Representative; Gary Hawkins, Green Hills; Philip Bleser, JP Morgan Chase; Jim Neal, Kurt Salmon Associates; James M. Citrin, Spencer Stuart; Scott Friend, Oracle Retail and Bruce Mosler, Cushman & Wakefield Inc.

WWD|DNR Retail|Apparel CEO Summit THE CHALLENGE OF CHANGE For information: 212.630.4779 or [email protected]

Sponsored by: 52 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005 WWD.COM

Some of the new Chanel to Overhaul Précision Scrubs and Masks Précision items. By Julie Naughton them individually, consumers will be ed- ness with their beautiful scents,” said ucated at counter about the benefits of Mankin. The deep-cleansing duo has NEW YORK — Chanel is putting a new using both products in tandem.” ylang-ylang concentrate; the hydrating face on its scrub and mask business this The scrub and mask pairs are broken duo has rose essence and the radiance spring. down into three categories: deep cleans- duo has orange blossom concentrate. The existing facial ing, for dry skin and for The new skin care items will be sold scrubs and masks mar- skin in need of radi- in the brand’s Beauté and skin care keted under the Pré- BEAUTY BEAT ance. Deep Purifying doors, which currently number about 850 cision name are being Exfoliating Mousse, $40 in the U.S. National advertising is not overhauled and reintroduced in March as for 2.5 oz., and Purifying Cream Mask, $45 planned, although co-op advertising is, as Précision Gommage Microperlé and for 2.5 oz., comprise the deep-cleansing is an intensive sampling campaign in- Masque Déstressant, respectively. line; Gentle Polishing Gel, $40 for 2.5 oz., tended to disseminate about 100,000 sam- “We are such a strong player in the and Masque Déstressant Hydratation, $45 ples at counter. The brand is sampling antiaging category that we wanted to for 1.7 oz., make up the dry skin duo, and the hydrating mask and the exfoliating build a strong ancillary business around Extra Radiance Exfoliating Gel, $40 for gel due to their broad appeal, said it,” said Elizabeth Mankin, senior vice 2.5 oz., and Anti-Fatigue Gel Mask, $45 for Mankin, who added that the brand will president of marketing for Chanel Beauté. 1.7 oz., comprise the radiance line. sample the deep-cleansing line in June. The iconic French beauty brand has Another switch will be in the way Each of the products contains a con- While Mankin would not disclose pro- a slew of other launches planned for the that the mask and scrub products are centrated floral essence, part of the new jected sales, industry sources estimated first half of next year, including a major marketed. “They will be presented as line’s signature. “In addition to being ac- that the products would do about $3 mil- lipstick line, new color cosmetics collec- duos,” said Mankin. “While you can buy tive ingredients, they also promote well- lion at retail in their first year on counter. tions and fragrance line extensions.

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GREAT OPPTY Sales Pro - Est’d NY importer of costume jewelry/access seeks exp’d Leading International Spanish Contemporary Designer Line, CUSTO BARCELONA, is looking self-starter w/proven following to sell for a highly motivated, seasoned professional to join our USA management team as the next: volume retailers, catalogs, premium accounts nationally. Base + comm + benefits. Email: [email protected] or RETAIL DIRECTOR Fax: 212-594-4466 Job Overview As the U.S. Director of Retail, your responsibilities will include directing all activities within the country (currently 7 stores and additional stores opening soon), required to attain store/company goals. You will oversee a retail management team, consisting of Store Managers who manage either mall-based or outside shopping center stores. Responsibilities include, but are not limited to: Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. • Ensure staff development: Recruit, select, train, develop, evaluate, motivate and manage No Lot Too Big or Too Small. the performance of your Store Managers. Call CLOTHES-OUT: (937) 898-2975 • Facilitate sales achievement, productivity and profitability in all locations. • Oversee compliance with commercial policies and procedures to maximize sales for the retail shops in the USA. • Liaison with Managing Directors in Spain to uphold a strong communication bridge and company standards. • Ability to communicate clearly and effectively in all situations with interpersonal skills (verbal and written) on all levels of management. • Achieve qualitative and quantitative objectives. • Work closely with visual merchandising and logistics departments in order to efficiently maximize sales. Qualified candidates must possess the following requirements: • Bachelor degree required. • Minimum of 5 years leadership experience, with visual merchandising experience. Com- mercial Fashion Retail management a must! • Extensive background in the opening of new stores, and their consequent management. • Strong leadership, communication and interpersonal skills. • Position based in Dallas - Must have the ability to travel frequently. Competitive compensation and benefits will commensurate with qualifications. Please submit your resume by e-mail to: [email protected], or by mail to: Custo Barcelona 474 Broome Street New York, NY 10013 7th Ave. - Attn. Brooke Visdomini Opportunity!!! Great space available for rent com- pletely renovated in one of the most prestigious bldgs. on 7th Ave. Approx. 300-400 s.f. Doorman; Kitchen; Levi’s® Handbags Merchandiser Window view; Bright light. Must see...! Call: 212-268-8316 Olivet International, following a highly successful launch of PATTERN/SAMPLES Levi’s® handbags, is seeking energetic & motivated individuals For Space in Garment Center Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Pier 22 Designs to join the merchandising team in a fast growing and work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Full service CAD/Design Studio Helmsley-Spear, Inc. 718.428.8822 [email protected] entrepreneurial environment. Candidates will work independ- 212-880-0414 Patterns/Samples/Beading ently as well as in team environment with our branch offices, Search For Space In Garment Center Duplicates Cut & Sew PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD sources in Asia and customers. Positions will require excellent Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee Fast & Full Service- Production communications and organization skills, multitasking ability www.midcomre.com Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 and good work ethic. Must be well versed in common business PATTERNS, SAMPLES, software. Knowledge of graphics/presentation programs is a Showrooms & Lofts plus. Become part of this dynamic team and take a prominent BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS PRODUCTIONS brand to the next level! Great ’New’ Office Space Avail All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Fax resume to 212/239-7426 West 34th Street Offices for Rent PATTERNS, SAMPLES, from 2,000 sf to 4,500 sf available CHARGEBACK ANALYST PRODUCTIONS Hip college town boutique in Fort 2-4yrs exp w/ reconciliations, valid & Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 Collins, CO. 120K gross; 25K net. non valid, proof of deliveries, invoice Full service shop to the trade. Affordable junior trends. Busy neigh- www.dumann.com Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. processing and adjustments. Factor borhood; good lease. 65K. Call (970) exp a must. Blue Cherry exp a plus. 980-0651. View at buzbuysell.com Central New Jersey Location. Design Send resume: [email protected] PR Manager Cut and Sew Accessories designer Lulu Guinness Design Assistant Import Designer and Established Garment Manufacturer seeks PR Mgr. for NYC showroom, Excellent Opportunity with prime BROADWAY showroom Tech Designer Well established Jr Sweater Co. seeking a Great American Sportswear co. seeks space and design facilities and reporting directly to Int’l. PR Director Design Asst. Entry Level. No design excess capacity will share with a Tech Designer w/ strong knowledge of in UK. Min. 1 year exp. & relevant experience needed. Admin duties, record knit fabrics, detailed spec / tech pack, compatible fit. contacts req’d. Enthusiasm, ability keeping,organization of showroom line, Fax to: (212)-268-6838 construction, fit evaluation and grading to work under own initiative & ability samples and color swatches. We offer a to handle all aspects in production dept. Showrooms - 5th Ave + Soho to 57th St. great work environment with excellent Must be highly organized individual Hot Lofts - Wood Fl. + Light Accountant-Controller to $80K. Current to deal w/all sectors of US press opportunities for growth. w/good email communication skills to Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 exp in domestic manufacturing of ASSISTANT essential. Interviews week 14th Nov. Pls fax or email resume to Sue & Kim @ handle follow through of styles in Search- www.manhattanoffices.com apparel req’d. Some costing. Will relocate It’s Out Time 212-221-7017 production from start to completion. MERCHANDISER Fax or E-mail to Nikki Rathmell: [email protected] to northeast PA area. Call 973-564-9236 Novelty and lifestyle co. seeks creative Also seeking Import Designer w/ jr cut individual for multi-tasking. Responsi- 011 44 208 483 3348 &sew bckgrd, 2 yrs exp. to initiate bilities include identifying emerging [email protected] DESIGN ASSISTANT specs from sketches, give thorough trends and hands on sourcing. Must be Men’s loungewear company instructions in product packs for ACCOUNTANT organized and self motivated. 2 years Branded and Private Label sample/ line development, follow up w/ Needed to act as controller/bookkeeper exp. A MUST. FAX: 212-643-0684 AUTUMN HOT JOBS makers, must be capable of designing for small Manhattan based women’s Qualifications: SOURCING MANAGER Blue Fox / NED Graphics a must groups w/direction from merchandiser. fashion footwear company. Responsi- Bi-Ling Man/Cant. 5-7 yr Supv Exp Fax: 212-768-7856 Attn: Sarina bilities to include financial statement Photoshop, Illustrator, Excel / Word ACCOUNTING ASSOC Highly organized, Very detail oriented preparation, A/P, A/R, bank relations, Open LC’s, Assist w/G/L. $50K Design Director $150-$175K current exp payroll & financial projections. Ready- A/R, CREDIT/COLL ASSOC Responsibilities: in women’s updated wovens, sportswear. to-wear or footwear wholesale back- ASST PROD CAD operator, Presentation Boards Must have fashion look of INC., Notat- 2 Positions: NJ & NYC. $50-55K Line-Lists, Assist Designers ground necessary. Competitive salary Leading Intimate Apparel Co seeks an ALLOCATION/SHIP COORD ions, Bandolino, etc. fabric develop., and benefits. Fax resume: 212-966-5234 organized & detailed oriented person AS400, MSW/ Excel. 7-10 yrs Exp. Please email or Fax Resumes to: supervise two. Travel to Europe. or E-mail: [email protected] to do daily flwup w/overseas, to handle Call Laurie 212-947-3399 [email protected] Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy. W’mart & Target acct. Spec garment is or e-mail [email protected] Fax: 212 302-1370 Design Director/Merch...... 125K Apparel Staffing, LTD a must. Minimum 2 years experience. KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Attn: Design Department Ladies Branded Intimates and Sleepwear Pls e-mail resume to Debbie at Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 Designer-Wm’s Casual Weekend Wear [email protected] Designer-Exp. w/women’s sweaters [email protected] Tech Dsgnr/Patternmaker-Children’s wr exp. Call Alan Wolf BOOKEEPER - Full Charge Designer $40,000 Phone (212)302-0216 Fax (212)302-1161 Established Company is seeking a Assistant Designer Part-Time Full Charge Bookkeeper. Great Learning Spot Asst. to VP of Sales Flexible hours. Call 212 944 6868 Nice Firm Major Accessory Co. seeks individual [email protected] Assistant Designer to assist the VP of Sales. Must be Major apparel company seeks Assistant proficient in Excel, Word, Outlook and Designer with experience in boys/ possess excellent communication skills CAD Design MGR $100-120K. Current Designer Assoc. $40-60K Bi-ling young men’s line to handle tech packs. 1-2 years related sales experience exp. in surface design. Prints & yarn Chinese or Korean req’d. Exp on MAC, Must have knowledge of Illustrator required. Dept. store sales experience dyes. Follow-up on strike-offs. Supervise Illustrator, Photoshop to do ski outer- and Photoshop. a plus. Email resume to: 2 in womenswear Co. U4ia, Illustrator, wear. Midtown Co. Call 973-564-9236 Please Fax resume to 212-239-2766 [email protected] Photoshop req’d. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral 54 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005

Cole Haan,awarded the 2004 Footwear News Achievement AN INCREDIBLE, CREATIVE, GROWTH OPPORTUNITY Award for Company of the Year has an immediate opening for: A successful Fashion Jewelry Co.,located in new corporate headquarters in Orange County is looking for a Director of Product Development . This Manager of Merchandise Planning profitable company is poised for growth and continued success. This New York based position will develop, execute, and If you have always loved fashion, and can design jewelry that is fresh, fashion communicate financial merchandise plans and strategies to forward, and appealing to a wide variety of women this is a great opportunity. support the merchandising, marketing and financial objec- Our french company designs, manufacturers and distrib- We are looking for someone with 7 - 10 years of experience, and some- tives as well as drive financial results that maximize sales, utes a specialized luxury product through a network of com- one who likes the business side of design as well as the creative part of inventory and inventory turn goals. pany owned stores throughout the USA, Europe and Asia. the job. The designs need to reflect the current trends and need to be able Qualified applicants for this position will have 4+ years plan- We are currently seeking Regional Managers; re- ning experience at the advanced level. Demonstrate logical to be mass produced cost effectively. sponsible for stores across the USA. The position is based out The right person will be mentored by one of the world’s great designers analysis and problem solving skills. As well as advanced Excel knowledge. of our NYC corporate office, but will require travel through- and have a team of his/her own to launch each season’s line. out the country and to France. Cole Haan offers a competitive salary and comprehensive This job has a competitive salary and a generous benefits package. If you The ideal candidate will have strong communication and or- are the right person please…Fax or E-mail your resume to: benefits package. To apply please forward your resume to: [email protected], subject line reading "Manager ganizational skills; a proven track record in achieving sales 949-863-9170 / [email protected] of Merchandise Planning" or fax to 212-515-1626. plans; strong customer service development background; proficiency We are an equal opportunity employer. M/F/D/V in training and development; high standards of presentation and operational proficiency; and most of all the ability to lead and motivate a team of experienced managers. SAMPLE ROOM MANAGER If you are passionate about retail and possess the above QUALITY CONTROL qualification, review our website at www.annefontaine.com and COORDINATOR send your resume to [email protected] or fax to 212-343-3151. Marc Jacobs Int’l. seeks Luxury Brand seeks a motivated individual to participate in the highly organized and detail exciting and rapid growth of their Women’s division. oriented individuals for Patternmaker to $80K current exp in Director of SENIOR WOMEN’S DESIGNER lined and unlined womens jackets. Production Manager the above positions. Strong in micro-dynamics or Gerber, Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX based Apparel Shoes & Accessories Work directly with the Creative Director & Chief Merchandiser or Lectra computer patterns. Long Mfr. looking for experienced individual Manger will manage sample in designing and overseeing the execution of the line from Island city loc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy with background in cutting, sewing, Excellent opportunity w/ the rapidly production, marking and grading, pat- room during show develop- growing lifestyle brand, Tory Burch. conception to finished product, leading the design team ment and thru production PLANNER $75-90K + Bonus terns, scheduling, and Q/C. Specific Seeking an experienced professional while working closely with the merchandising group. Leading Importer seeks degreed invid knowledge in mens shirts and ladies development. Must have with 5+ yrs forecasting/planning exp. blouses helpful. Westmoor Mfg. Co. to oversee the launch of our Shoes Ideal candidate will have a recognized design degree and 3-5 Please Fax or E-mail resumes to: good understanding of and Accessories division. In addi- Responsibilities include creating/main- sewing/patternmaking and years experience in Designer or Contemporary clothing labels taining stock models, review Skus on 817-624-1554 / [email protected] tion to directing the sales & market- weekly basis, place production orders, couture market. Minimum and multi task. Candidates must demonstrate a high awareness ing efforts, this new role will be of Fashion trends and be able to address a global marketplace. analyze customers POS data, Identify Production / Sales Asst 5 yrs experience required. overstocks and produce reports. E-Mail Children’s Sleepwear Co. has an imme- req’d to manage the merchandising, Must be detail oriented and have experience working with resumes as Microsoft Word Attachment: diate opening for an exp’d. sales QC Coordinator must have production & design processes of foreign vendors. Must be willing to relocate to Asia. An [email protected] assistant. Responsibilities include excellent tailoring knowledge both collections. Looking for some- excellent package will be offered to right candidates, order placement, account follow-up, and interfacing w/ both Design & and follow thru stages of do- one who will thrive in a fast-paced, commensurate with experience and talent. Product Development Mgr. Production. The ideal candidate is mestic production. Min 3 yrs entrepreneurial environment. Please JEWELRY organized. detail oriented, and thrives w/designer & patternmaking submit resume with salary require- Send resume with salary expectations to: 30 year old NJ based Fine Jewelry Co. in a multi-faceted, fast paced environ- Email: [email protected] Attn: Fiona is in search of a Product Development ment. Salary commensurate with exp. understanding preferred. ments via Email to: Manager. Must have minimum 5 years Fax resume to: 212-683-7619 [email protected] experience in either fine or fashion Excellent comp/benefits Handbag Designers jewelry. This individual will lead the Production Sourcing MGR $120-150K package & international, Merchandise product development team of this Current exp in girls infant to 16 knits DESIGNER Established 7th Ave. Accessories Co. company. An entrepreneurial spirit as and wovens. Strong relationships with team-oriented setting. Fax seeking graphic designers to work on a well as creativity and organizational factories WW that produces kidswear. Well est’d Importer of Women’s sleepwear well known junior accessory brand. resume to: 212-965-5510. & lingerie, seeks a fashion CAD designer skills are key to this position. E-mail Strong in sourcing, follow-up, admin. Candidates must have a min. 2 years resume to: [email protected] Technical knowledge of construction EOE M/F/D/V with at least 3 years working experience. experience in handbag/belt design, Must be well organized, detail oriented, of garments. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY proficient in Illus/Photo, hand sketch Production $65,000 www.marcjacobs.com technical, creative and proficient in + Generous Salary + Benefits. Photoshop and Adobe Illustrator. We General Accessories Production Sourcing Mgr. to $75K min Please email resume to: Hand Bags 5yrs exp in production. Strong exp in offer a great working environment good [email protected] Designer benefits & a salary based on experience. Merchandise Manager Better Market garment & fabric construction. Bilin- Please email or fax resume to Att: Mary Niketown [email protected] gual Chinese/Eng. Req’d. Supervise 3. Associate Designer E: [email protected] F:212-448-0926 Import Manager & Director Lite travel. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY Major apparel company seeks Associate Children’s babywear import co. seeks Designer with min. 3 years experience You’ll lead the General Merchandise Production Assistant Production To $50K highly qualified person to manage all Management team at our Headquarters in infant/toddler girls. Individual should facets of overseas production from NY Major Sleepwear Manufacturer seeks a Several Spots in Portland, OR to achieve revenue Production Asst. Entry level position Name Firms be able to work within design room/ Design office. Responsibilities include frequent sample room environment. Must have and profitability goals. You’ll also develop, for various duties including sample [email protected] traveling, sourcing new factories and execute & deliver the strategic direction knowledge Illustrator and Photoshop. Fashion Jewelry Designer agents, negotiate prices and delivery, tracking, data entry, cutting fabric and for goals aligned with planned sales, mail packages. Please fax your resume PRODUCT MANAGER ...... TO 85K Fax resume 212-239-2766 Trend Jewelry Mfr. with a "passion for and manage overseas office. Minimum gross margin, inventory and markdowns to: 212-685-4341 Attn: Lauren Home Fashion Bilingual Chinese A+ fashion" seeks a creative designer with 5 years experience with knowledge of at all US Niketown venues. Designer/CAD...... 55-60K minimum 1 year experience. Candidate Asian market. Must be organized with Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 Home Fashion Strong MAC must be a self motivated, flexible team strong communication skills. Knowledge Requirements for the position include a PRODUCTION [email protected] Jennifer Glenn SRI Search Inc. player with a strong understanding of of fabric and garment construction a Bachelor’s degree in Business, 8 years’ [email protected] design procedures, including sourcing, plus. Computer literate including Excel merchandise/ buying/ assortment planning COORDINATOR and Outlook. Please send resume and experience for a multi-store retailer Gifts and Novelties Co. seeks Prod. Quality Control production, and price/value relationship. FREELANCE Must have the ability to identify and salary requirements to: Peter Dunbar and 5 years’ management experience. Coordinator with good communication Designer / Head Fax: (212) 564-5214 and computer skills. No travel High-end women’s ready-to-wear seeks Successful, established NY based reinterpret forward fashion trends for quality checker for seasonal services. the appropriate customer base. Must Interested? Go to www.nikejobs.com/us required. Fax at 212-643-0684 import and domestic junior apparel co and reference job #013522 to apply. Pls. fax resume, attn: Quality Checker seeks head sweater designer. Mini- have excellent interpersonal skills, w/ (212) 343-0216 the ability to communicate, problem solve, Jewelry Salesperson Nike is committed to employing a diverse Production Coordinator mum 3 yrs experience in designing. workforce. EOE/M/F/H/V Knowledge of Illustrator and or multi-task and work independently. Excellent opportunity for Costume Lg childrenswear co seeks person to RETAIL FASHION Photoshop. Excellent compensation Please Fax resume to: 212 532-1695 Jewelry Sales Person. Must have follow up w/ Wal-Mart, Target, JCP Showroom Mgr/Hi-Fashion $80K and benefits package. Please fax strong, established relationships with accts & overseas factories. Must be Store Mgrs/NYC & Westchester/French $70K resume: 212-938-1024 Attn: Jonathan major retailers. Merchandiser / Designer familiar w/ CTL approval procedures. Asst Controller/Retail experience $60K Sales Associates/Madison Av $35K+% Design Email resumes: [email protected] Fast growing NYC Sportswear Co. seeks Bilingual Chinese/English preferred. 2- an exp’d. Merchandiser/Designer to run 3 yrs exp. Fax: (212) 967-8631 attn: Rose FAX: 212-481-4086 [email protected] Packaging Designer our sportswear division. Please Fax all DESIGNERS Seeking an experienced & creative resumes to: 516-921-7073 packaging designer for a well established Production / SALES ASSISTANT $35K Novelty • Cold-Weather • Belts growing fashion jewelry / accessories Import Coordinator Leading Fashion Co. seeks organized, Fast-growing Fashion Accessory Co. is company. Great opportunity. Please Patternmaker - Tech Design to $70K detail oriented candidate with 1-2 seeking 2 Designers with 2+ years expe- current exp in Jr. fitting req’d. Tops, Coordinate item creation, ordering & email resume: [email protected] inbound logistics for a watch company. years exp. to prepare quotes, maintain rience in the above categories to work bottoms, woven, knits. Exp on EXCEL. vendor contact, and general admin. with merchandisers to develop seasonal Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency Includes heavy comm. w/ China vendors. Must be knowledgeable of shipping/ duties. E-mail resume to: trends and illustrate/track product devel- [email protected] opment overseas. Must work well in a import procedures, EDI, routing & team environment and possess superb Patternmaker tech spec. Asst to $50K. labeling. Will also manage inventory, organizational and time management Min 1 yr. exp in fittings ok. wovens issue/rcv. P.O’s. Min. 2 yrs exp. & exc. SENIOR COLORIST skills. Some overseas travel req’d. Exper- Factory MGR to $100K Current exp sportswear. Write cut tickets. Check cut- computer and comm. skills required. Large Textile/Apparel co. seeks a Sr. tise in Illustrator/Mac a must. Please managing factory of men’s or women’s ters must. Prepare patterns for grading. Salary to $50k. Exc. bnfts pkg. Great Colorist. Min. 3-5 yrs exp. Bi-lingual Fax or E-mail resume to: 212-273-9202 woven shirts/ blouses. Supv. 250 in N. Excel computer exp. Knwldg garment work environment. Mandarina a plus. Fax resume to: careerfashionaccess@ yahoo.com E. PA area. Will relo. Call 973-564-9236 construction. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY. Send resume to: [email protected] 212-563-7484 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2005 55 WWD.COM

Selma Blair in The to shoot fashion, it was now with the sort of dark, Goth New York Times elements this season.” Magazine. The eerie photos will run on Oct. 30, just in time for MEMO PAD Halloween. — Sara James

GHOUL INTENTIONS: At The New York Times, they’re STAYING ON BUDGET: Launch guru Don Welsh can’t walk calling it “the Selma Blair witch project.” down Sixth Avenue without sparking rumors that he’s The actress was just photographed in the abandoned trying to sell Budget Living. In the past, he has invited Harlem Valley Psychiatric Hospital in upstate New York, Hearst, Meredith, Gruner + Jahr and Martha Stewart posing with live snakes, iguanas and a hairless cat for a Living Omnimedia to kick the tires, according to a fashion story that will run in the next Sunday Times former employee. “Everyone knows Don’s m.o. is to Magazine. To say she was a good sport about it would flip,” added the source. be an understatement. “Selma was great,” said the But that wasn’t the reason for his recent visit to Times’ Alix Browne. “At one point, the stylist said, Hachette Filipacchi Media, where he gave a presentation ‘She’s really going for it’” — that was right around the to chief executive officer Jack Kliger. Rather, according to moment Blair put a live rat in her mouth. Welsh, he was there to discuss teaming up for a The real coup, though, was getting Roger Ballen, a newsstand one-shot about budget weddings. “It could South African artist represented by the Gagosian Gallery happen, or it could never happen,” he said. in the U.S., to shoot a fashion story for the Times. “The Meanwhile, Budget Living this month increased its best description I can give you is, he’s the Diane Arbus frequency to 10 times a year, up from six. Publisher Scott of South Africa,” said Browne. “He had done some Willett and new editor in chief Angela Matusik hosted a portraits for us in Africa that were more political party at Hotel QT last Wednesday to mark the title’s third

portraits. We thought if ever there was a moment for him ROGER BALLEN PHOTO BY anniversary. — Jeff Bercovici

Sales Key Acct Exec $125-$150K +++ MANAGERS/REPS Current exp in kidswear or kids outer- Crown Cap, a “better” accessory designer, wear to dept or mid tier stores or chain manufacturer and importer, requires or specialty stores OK. Branded or territory managers/reps with established private label or licencees OK. Well estb independent accounts in their respective Co. expanding expotentially. Call 973 - territories. Already well established in 564-9276 Jaral Fashion Agency. the U.S. market, we are looking to ex- pand through representation based in California, Florida, Dallas & Denver. Both Women’s & Men’s lines are avail- able. Pls. fax resume to (204) 786-2526 or E-mail: [email protected] SALES ASSISTANT Excellent Sales Opportunity Busy Accessories Co. seeks a mature Signature Apparel Group, a multifaceted, rapidly growing individual to assist sales team, manage showroom plus various office duties. apparel co with both men’s & women’s divisions seeks an Extensive administrative & customer account manager for our Corporate office in our Levi’s service exp. required. Good Benefits! SALES ASSOCIATE sleepwear division. The ideal candidate must have 5+ years Fax resume w/ salary history to: The Michael Kors Boutique on Madison Avenue is seeking experience in women’s sleepwear and intimate apparel sales. 212-244-5897, Attn: V/P an experienced and eager sales professional. Must have a Must have well established relationships with mid tier client book and 3+ years in a luxury retail environment. accounts. We are looking for a self-starter who thrives in a Sales Director Fast growing NYC Sportswear Co. seeks fast paced and hard working environment. Great earning an exp’d., aggressive, motivated Sales Email or fax resume with salary requirements to: potential. Please submit resume w/ salary requirements: Director with strong, well est’d. contacts [email protected] / (212) 327-4459 Signature Apparel Group Attn: Susan w/Nat’l. Chain/Dept. Stores & Specialty We are an equal opportunity employer. M/D/F/V Fax: 212 768-8879 accounts. Fax resume to: 516-921-7073 Email: [email protected] SALES EXECUTIVE Men’s Accessories AMAZING OPPORTUNITY Max Leather Group/ SALES ASSISTANT SALES ASSISTANT Global leader in identification Well established Jr. Sweater Co. Seeking Cipriani Accessories products for the apparel industry Sales Asst. to Pres of Sales. Must have NEW YORK CITY good analytical written and verbal skills, Cipriani Accessories, a leading designer seeks motivated SA, working with strong work ethic, extremely detail belt, small leather goods, cold weather retailers and fashion companies. oriented, the ability to work in a fast accessories co, has outstanding career Good org. and communication paced environ. excellent comp, organi- oppty for exp’d Sales Exec to join zational and follow-up skills, and the growing co. Position based out of NY skills, Word, Excel, Mac. Detail Showroom. Successful candidate will BAGS ability to keep accurate records. Exp a +. M/W Accessory Co. Rue Inc., San Francisco designer of cell oriented and multi-tasking are We offer a great work environment be resp for handling men’s private CA, IL, IN, MI, labels for dept, specialty & off price Seeks reps in phone, Mp3’s, laptop bags, etc. is seeking required. BA degree preferred. with excellent opportunities for growth. aMulti-line Independent Sales Repre- Please fax or email resume to Laura @ accts. Seek person w/established MN, NV, NY, OH, OR, PA, Please E-mail resume to contacts/proven track record of sentative to handle all territories. Exp. It’s Our Time 212-221-7017 WI, WV. Licensed collegiate &established relationships w/companies [email protected] [email protected] generating new accts/relationship bldg. Min 3-5 yrs exp in men’s & outdoor, kids’, pet, and &stores that sell tech products, catalog and chain stores a must. Looking for wholesale belt/small leather goods jewelry. Fax Resume: /accessories industry req’d. Ideal can- motivated person to grow with company. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE FASHION JEWELRY didate will be highly motivated 800-889-0237 Will pay commission & some trade show Est’d. Fine & Bridge JEWELRY Co. is High-end fashion jewelry co seeks w/strong merchandising abilities/ and show-room fees. For more info visit: seeking a Sales Executive w/minimum motivated and enthusiastic Account organizat’l skills capable of juggling www.rueinc.com. Fax/E-mail resume to: 5 years experience selling to Dept. & Executives with 3-5 years sales exp to priorities/ working in a fast paced 415-480-2073 / [email protected] generate and manage specialty store Specialty Stores. This candidate will have envir. Able to work independently/use Day into evening mfr. of women’s an entrepreneurial hands on spirit in and private label accounts. Must have sound judgment.Excellent commun excellent customer service and thrive pleated skirts seeks ROAD REPS in all order to be part of an excellent growth skills/ polished presentation a must. US Territories. Price Point $35 - $75 opportunity. The motivation to develop in an entrepreneurial environment. Good computer skills nec. We offer Hiring in NYC and L.A. E-mail wholesale. Fax: (212) 279-8278 or new key accounts and other related compet base salary + comm coupled E-mail: [email protected] business is a key part of this position. resumes: [email protected] w/a comprehensive employee benefits Must have good analytical skills, un- package. Pls submit resume & cover derstand retail math, and have a solid letter as a Word doc indicating salary understanding of Microsoft Word, Excel Great Sales Opportunity history & requirements to: and PowerPoint. This position is based New York based co. requires a respon- [email protected] in Northern New Jersey. Please E-mail sible individual for young men’s and resume to: [email protected] women’s apparel market. Seeking ag- Sales Immed. gressive, hands on exp’d person who Jeans has style sensibility to cater to major Hot, Hip, Upbeat Account Executive Sales Asst Off Price Jobber seeking experienced retailers in Mid-West and West Coast areas. Relationships with market a 2+ years exp, growth. Technical $55K sales professional who is aggressive [email protected] and self-motivated. Must have knowl- must. Business in Place. Excellent Tech Designers package. Fax (212)245-7615 Great Firms edge and customer contacts in the PATTERNMAKER Childrens/Womens Off-Price Market selling men’s, women’s Full or Part time. 30 years experience. [email protected] &children’s apparel as well as develop Sales Immed. Please call Lucy 718-239-9423 new business. Some travel necessary. RECRUITING FAX resume & salary requirements to: Growing NY based Co. Winston staffing is seeking recruiters/ Traffic Coordinator 212-268-3143 Seeking exp’d. Sales Professionals for sales people. Learn the business as Leading Novelty Import Co. seeks the greater tri-state area. Candidates you build your own. Excellent opportu- experienced TC to track & follow-up must have knowledge and contacts nity to use all your skills. Position is all shipments. Must also have experi- within the Women’s & Young Men’s heavy Sales. The ideal person is hard ence w/ direct drop shipments in USA markets, as well as the ability to develop working, dedicated and wants to con- and abroad. Excellent oppportunity. new business. Fax/E-mail resumes to HR: trol their own destiny. Salary plus Fax resume: 212-643-0684 212-693-1601 / [email protected] comm., six figure oppty. Contact [email protected]

Visual Merchandiser In-house Salesperson Sales Immed. CARLE PLACE, LONG ISLAND Watches Wanted for Upscale Lighting & Home & Showroom Assistant Hip Line Furnishings Showroom. Willing to train, Well-established Jewelry & Accessories Opportunity to join well-known and oppty for growth to buying position Company seeks experienced indivs. growing Watch and Jewelry firm. Product for right candidate. Fax: (516) 747.4569 Fax resume w/ salary requirements to sells itself, but wants watch experience. or E-mail: [email protected] 212-481-8238, Email: [email protected] [email protected]