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New World Wines Dear Wine for Funners As the initial lockdown passes and easing of restrictions continues, I’m not sure that we should be trying to regain the ‘normal’ that we took for granted, but rather, despite the uncertainty, embrace the changes to come. We have the opportunity to explore a new way of being, a new ‘norm’. In that vein, in with the new … New World wines The classification was originally based on geography with Europe and Mediterranean countries being the Old World and the New World being represented by the countries that they then colonised such as Australia, Chile, New Zealand, South Africa, Argentina and the USA. These new winemakers were able to experiment unencumbered by the constraints of tradition and rules and regulations. Over time these two contrasting approaches have established a middle ground where the New world producers are increasingly adopting the better aspects of tradition, and the Old World have taken on board the technical innovations pioneered by the New World. In the last quarter of the 20th century global exports of wine from the New World rose from 3% to 23% of the total. In 2020 New World producers account for six out of the ten top producers in terms of volume: Italy 4,796,600 tonnes Spain 4,607,850 tonnes France 4,293,466 tonnes United States of America, 3,300,000 tonnes China 1,700,000 tonnes Argentina 1,498,380 tonnes Chile 1,214,000 tonnes Australia 1,186,343 tonnes South Africa 1,146,006 tonnes Germany 920,200 tonnes Portugal 603,327 tonnes Romania 378,283 tonnes Greece 334,300 tonnes Russia 327,400 tonnes New Zealand 320,400 tonnes Brazil 273,100 tonnes Hungary 258,520 tonnes Austria 199,869 tonnes Serbia 198,183 tonnes Moldova 149,850 tonnes [worldpopulationreview.com] Initially New World wines reflected a tendency to showcase the qualities of the different varieties rather than relying on those traditionally associated with geographic regions and techniques. Whereas Old World wines tend to be leaner, more acidic and tannic, wines from the New World often have a higher alcohol content, are fuller bodied and have more pronounced fruit flavours. They are also more likely to have been fermented in oak. In terms of naming the wines, Old World wines usually took the name of the place where they were made whilst New World wines go by the grapes used. Market trends and the consequent commercial impact may be more keenly felt by New World wine makers which tend to be owned by larger companies in contrast to their traditional European and Mediterranean counterparts. How do New World wines rate? The famous Judgement of Paris (see Sips and Tips number 3) demonstrated that California can equally match those of Europe. In addition, Canada’s Ice Wine has been well received. Nowadays Malbec is synonymous with Argentina and Chile is known as ‘the Bordeaux of the southern hemisphere’ because it is the new power base of for Carmenere. Sauvignon Blanc, historically so closely associated with France, is arguably now more closely identified with the international reputation of New Zealand’s wine producers. Although vines have been cultivated in South Africa since the 1600s, it wasn’t until the 1980’s and 1990’s that it began to emerge into the wider wine world. China is an emerging global wine force, with wine consumption doubling between 2006 and 2012, with 80% being met by domestic production. In general, it has chosen to follow French methodology. In summary, “Overall, New World wines tend to mimic and then innovate.” [Wine Folly] News and Views What’s new? We are all familiar with the wine box, but has anyone come across wine in a paper bottle? Frugalpac, a British firm based in Ipswich, have developed such a thing : the Frugal bottle. It is made from 94% recycled paperboard, and although it does contain some plastic this is only 23% of the amount in a plastic bottle. As you would expect it is both light, only 83g (a fifth of the weight of a glass bottle) and eco friendly (the carbon footprint is reduced by five sixths). In addition the bottle can be refrigerated and keeps the liquid cooler for longer. Decanter magazine highlighted this innovation citing 3Q a wine from the award winning Italian vineyard Cantina Goccia. This unwooded Sangiovese red has hints of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, and is fresh, light and accessible. It delivers both red and black fruit flavours with a hint of dark chocolate. Cantina Goccia. 3Q 2017 £12.99 Go on their website for further details. Robert Parker has been named as the new member of The Decanter Hall of Fame 2020. He began writing his wine guidebook in 1975. Until then it was felt that many wine critics were subject to the vested interests of the wine trade as many of them made a living selling wine: a clear conflict of interest. Robert Parker’s most controversial and influential contribution was based on how much pleasure he derived from a wine, and he relied on his emotions as well his nose and palate (which incidentally were insured for $1 million). Thus the 100 point scoring system was born. Criteria include the wine's colour and appearance, aroma and bouquet, flavour and finish, and the overall quality level or potential. Parker commented: “I really think probably the only difference between a 96-, 97-, 98-, 99-, and 100-point wine is really the emotion of the moment.” [The lone wolf : A conversation with wine critic Robert Parker Naples Daily News. E. W. Scripps. January 25, 2007] The wine industry attributed much importance to these numbers, with a top Parker score said to be worth £5 million. Parker favoured the views of Emile Peynaud, a French oenologist, who advocated the late harvesting of grapes to maximise ripeness and the reduction of tannins by not filtering the wine and using micro oxygenation. These techniques became known as The International Style or Parkerisation. A controversial figure, amongst his awards, Robert Parker is a member of the Legion d’Honneur and the national orders of merit in both Spain and Italy. Notably there has been no national recognition at home in the USA. He is known for his contagious enthusiasm and continues to be outspoken. Now aged 72 he is fully retired. In an extensive interview with Decanter magazine, Andrew Jefford reviews his legacy and concludes: “No one individual before or since has changed the world of wine so dramatically, or as beneficially, as Robert M. Parker Jr.” See the webpage for the full interview - Decanter magazine Shopping around In keeping with the theme, I have only included a selection of New World wines .. but others are available! Majestic prices are for mixed six Errazuriz Estate Series Carmenère 2018, Aconcagua Valley £6.99 Mayu Carménère Appassimento 2016 £9.99 Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Chile £7.99 Yellow Tail Shiraz £5.99 NB Save 25% on all Definition [Majestic’s exclusive range] for mix 6 or more Waitrose Dark Horse Cabernet Sauvignon [£6.79 from £8.69] Giesen Dillons Point Sauvignon Blanc [£6.99 from £9.49] Sainsburys Yellow Tail Pinot Grigio [£6.00 from £7.00] Camino del Angel Merlot [£5.75 from £6.25] Oyster Bay sparkling Cuvee Brut [£10.00 from £13.00] Diablo Dark Red [£8.00 from £10.00] Marks and Spencer [NB these are all full price] Lock Keeper's Reserve Chardonnay £9.00 Weather Station Pinot Grigio £7.50 Ken Forrester Workhorse Chenin Blanc £8.00 Tasters and snippets In another new venture, the first UK TV campaign has been launched by Hattingley Valley to coincide with their tenth anniversary. The thirty second commercial (made in partnership with Sky) seeks to counter the view that only the French produce a quality ‘fizz’. It went on air on 18 June and is entitled ‘C’est Anglais’. You can find it on the Hattingley Valley website. Find out more here. Vineyards are gradually opening: check Wine GB and vineyards’ own websites. Majestic in Farnham is now open to customers. Marks and Spencer have launched a classic range of wines. Wine Unearthed currently have two mixed cases (one white and one red) of New World wines. See their website for details And finally, a few gentle words to ponder as you quaff: The wine in the bottle does not quench thirst. George Herbert Wine can be considered with good reason as the most healthful and hygenic of all beverages. Louis Pasteur Stay safe, stay well, stay distanced Cheers Jane Moberly Wine for Fun 2 .
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