Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements

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Step 1A Begin the drape by applying style tape from apex to apex.

1 Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements

Step 1B Tape the desired hemline, which for this silhouette will be 4” below the waistline. Make sure that your style tape is parallel to the floor.

2 Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements

Step 2A Establish the princess style points by measuring down 3/4” from the plate screw and then apply style tape. Be sure that your front and back measurements are the same when measured from the side seam.

3 Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements

Step 2B Use your flex curve to check.

4 Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements

Step 3A Style tape your princess styleline on the front, using your form’s princess line as the your guide.

5 Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements

Step 3B Style tape your princess styleline on the back.

6 Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements

Step 4 For the center front and back block length take the measurement from the back neck to the hem plus 6”. The block’s width for a 3/4” sleeve will be 28” wide.

7 Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements

Step 5A For the length of both front and back side panel block measure from the top of the princess style tape to the hem plus 4”.

8 Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements

Step 5B For the side back width measure under the armplate from princess seam to the side seam plus 8”. Record these measurements.

9 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines

Step 1A Referring to your recorded measurements, measure all of your muslin pieces.

10 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines

Step 1B Tear all of your muslin pieces.

11 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines

Step 1C Block all of your muslin pieces.

12 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines

Step 1D Press all of your muslin pieces.

13 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines

Step 2A On the front block measure in 1 1/4” from the right side edge and drag a guideline down, this represents center front.

14 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines

Step 2B Measure over 3/4” from the edge and drag a guideline down, this represents the buttonhole extension.

15 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines

Step 3 At center front, measure down 4” from upper edge and cross mark, this is the front neckline.

16 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines

Step 4A On the back, measure in 1” from the left side edge and drag a guideline down this represents center back.

17 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines

Step 4B At center back, measure down 3” from upper edge and cross mark, this is the back neckline.

18 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines

Step 5 For the front & back princess muslin blocks, drag a guideline down the center of each block this represents the straight grainline.

19 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines

Step 6A Create a front facing piece measuring 25” long by 10” wide.

20 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines

Step 6B Mark a center front guideline at 1 1/4 ” away from the edge

21 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines

Step 6C Mark another guideline at 3/4” in from the edge, same as you did on the front block.

22 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines

Step 7A For the convertible collar, block a piece of muslin 12” wide by 6” long. Place a guideline 1” in from the left side representing center back

23 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines

Step 7B Place another guideline 1” up from the lower edge, representing the neckline.

24 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 1A Align the side front muslin block guideline onto the center of the side panel of the dress form. Place a pin at the top of the princessline and another at the waistline.

25 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 1B Place a pin at the waist/styline intersection.

26 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 1C Pin the side seam/waist intersection.

27 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 1D Pin at the side seam/hem intersection.

28 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 2A Secure the armhole/side seam intersection with 2 pins for stability.

29 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 2B Pin along the princessline style line to the waistline, adding and trapping ease at the apex area as you go.

30 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 2C Place another pin at the hem.

31 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 3A Begin marking the front panel by placing a crossmark at the armhole/princess intersection.

32 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 3B Mark along one side of the styletape to the waist, placing a crossmark at the apex,

33 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 3C Crossmark the waistline.

34 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 3D Crossmark the hem.

35 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 3E Continue dotting the hem.

36 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 3F Place a crossmark at the side seam.

37 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 3G Mark the side seam/waist intersection.

38 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 3H Mark the underarm/side seam intersection.

39 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 4 Place 2 dash marks at 1 1/2” above and below the apex at the princess styleline. These represent your ease notches.

40 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 5 Check to be sure that you captured all of the markings then remove the drape from the dress form.

41 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 6A Begin draping your side back panel by aligning the muslin block guideline onto the center of the side back panel of the dress form.

42 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 6B To keep the muslin out of your way while draping, place temporary holding pins on front and back.

43 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 6C Pin the guideline at the underarm and at the waistline.

44 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 6D Pin at the side seam and at the princess waistline adding a pinch of ease.

45 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 6E Place pins at the hem at the princess styleline,

46 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 6F Pin at the side seam.

47 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 6G Pin at the armhole/side seam intersection.

48 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 6H To hold the back panel better, place 2 pins at the armhole/princessline intersection and continue to pin along the princess styleline to the waist.

49 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 6I Then place a pin at the hem.

50 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 7A Begin marking the side back panel with a crossmark at the side seam/hem intersection

51 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 7B Mark at the waistline.

52 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 7C Continue marking the underarm/side seam intersection

53 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 7D Mark the princessline/side seam intersection.

54 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 7E Mark along the princess styleline to the waistline.

55 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 7F Place a crossmark at the waistline

56 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 7G Place a crossmark at the hem.

57 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 7H Place dot marks along the hemline.

58 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 8A Place 2 dash marks about 1” below the curved part of the back styleline, these are your back notches.

59 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 8B Once you have checked that all your markings were captured, remove the back drape from the dress form.

60 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 1 Begin trueing the side seam of the side front panel using your straight ruler. Connect from underarm to the waistline.

61 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 2A Measure down 1” from the armplate crossmark, this represents the new lowered armhole.

62 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 2B At the lowered armhole measure 1/2” extension for ease and reconnect the new side seam to the waistline.

63 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 3 Using your French curve, draw in the armhole connecting the rossmarks at the princess stylepoint to the lowered extended armhole.

64 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 4 With your French curve, draw in the princess seamline by connecting all the dots & marks from the princess stylepoint to the waistline.

65 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 5A To create moderate flares, measure out 2” at the princess/hem intersection and then connect a straight line from the waistline to the hem.

66 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 5B Repeat this process for the side seam, coming out 2” and connecting the waistline to the flare at the hem.

67 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 6A Add 1/2” seam allowance along the princess seam and around the armhole.

68 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 6B Add 1” seam allowance to the side seam.

69 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 7 Measure the lowered extended front armhole from stylepoint to side seam and record that measurement.

70 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 8 Trim away the excess seam allowance.

71 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 9 Trueing the side back panel is the process as the front. Begin by trueing the side seam connecting the underarm to the waist.

72 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 10A Measure down 1” from the armhole crossmark, for the new lowered armhole.

73 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 10B At the lowered armhole measure out 1/2” for the ease extension and reconnect the new side seam to the waistline.

74 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 11 Using your French curve, draw in the armhole connecting the rossmarks at the princess stylepoint to the lowered extended armhole.

75 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 12 With your hip curve, draw in the princess seamline by connecting all the dots & marks from the princess stylepoint to the waistline.

76 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 13A Create the back flares by measuring out 2” at the princess/hem intersection and then connect a straight line from the waistline to the hem.

77 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 13B Do the same for the side seam, coming out 2” at the hem and connecting the waistline to the flare at the hem.

78 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 14A Add 1” seam allowance to the side seam

79 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 14B Add 1/2 ” seam allowance along the princess seam and around the armhole.

80 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 14C Go back and true your seam intersections.

81 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 14D Measure your back armhole making sure that it measures the same as the front.

82 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 15 Trim away the excess seam allowance at the side seam, the armhole and the princessline.

83 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 16A Clip into the 1” seam allowance at the waist on the side back panel to release the flare.

84 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 16B Pin the front & back princess panels together at the side seam, back over front. Be sure you connect the lowered extended lines and not the original tight body lines.

85 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 17A Pin the side panels back onto dress form the way you draped it, burying your pins into the form along the front & back princess seam allowance so that you will be able to drape your front and back center panels over your side panels.

86 Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 17B Carefully trap your bust ease between the pins on the front princessline and pin up to the waistline only.

87 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 5 – Draping the Center Front Panel

Step 1A Begin draping the center front panel by lining up your muslin block’s neckline marking to the neckline of the dress form.

88 Module 5 – Draping the Center Front Panel

Step 1B Place a temporary holding pin on the muslin to keep the muslin out of your way while you drape the front. Pin along the center front grainline beginning at neckline and then at midchest.

89 Module 5 – Draping the Center Front Panel

Step 1C Be sure to add bust ease before continuing to pin under the bust level.

90 Module 5 – Draping the Center Front Panel

Step 1D Place a pin at the waist, the hemline and at the apex.

91 Module 5 – Draping the Center Front Panel

Step 2 To release the neckline, cut a rectangle piece above centerfront then slash into the neckline, trimming the excess muslin as you go. Be careful not to slash more than a 1/4” from the neckline seam on the dress form.

92 Module 5 – Draping the Center Front Panel

Step 3 Place pins at the neckline/shoulder intersection, at the center of the shoulder and at the shoulder/armhole intersection.

93 Module 5 – Draping the Center Front Panel

Step 4A Smooth the muslin over the chest area and start pinning beginning at the princess/ armhole intersection.

94 Module 5 – Draping the Center Front Panel

Step 4B Looking through the muslin, pin along the lines that you created on the side front panel. You will also be able to feel the pins underneath.

95 Module 5 – Draping the Center Front Panel

Step 4C Carefully smooth the muslin in the apex area trapping the ease with you pins. Place a pin at the waistline and another at the hemline.

96 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 6 – Marking the Center Front Panel

Step 1A Mark your front muslin in a counterclockwise direction. Begin by dotting your neckline.

97 Module 6 – Marking the Center Front Panel

Step 1B Crossmark your shoulder/neckline intersection.

98 Module 6 – Marking the Center Front Panel

Step 1C Place a dot midpoint between the neck and the shoulder.

99 Module 6 – Marking the Center Front Panel

Step 1D Crossmark at the shoulder/armhole intersection.

100 Module 6 – Marking the Center Front Panel

Step 1E Crossmark the princess/armhole intersection.

101 Module 6 – Marking the Center Front Panel

Step 2A Feeling for your pins or looking through the muslin, continue to dot the princessline to the waistline.

102 Module 6 – Marking the Center Front Panel

Step 2B Place a crossmark at the apex

103 Module 6 – Marking the Center Front Panel

Step 2C Crossmark the waistline/princess intersection

104 Module 6 – Marking the Center Front Panel

Step 2D Crossmark the centerfront/hem intersection.

105 Module 6 – Marking the Center Front Panel

Step 2E Make a dash mark at the centerfront/waistline intersection.

106 Module 6 – Marking the Center Front Panel

Step 3 Transfer the princess ease notches from the side panel onto the front panel.

107 Module 6 – Marking the Center Front Panel

Step 4 Remove the front panel from the dress form after checking that you have captured all of the necessary markings

108 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 7 – Trueing the Center Front Panel

Step 1A Start trueing by connecting the dots on the neckline with your French curve.

109 Module 7 – Trueing the Center Front Panel

Step 1B Make sure that your neckline marking is a right angle to centerfront.

110 Module 7 – Trueing the Center Front Panel

Step 2 Using a straight ruler, draw in the shoulder seam from the shoulder/neck intersection to shoulder/armhole intersection.

111 Module 7 – Trueing the Center Front Panel

Step 3A With a combination of a French curve and a hip curve, draw in the princess seamline, connecting all of the dots and marks beginning at the princess/armhole intersection to the waistline/princess intersection.

112 Module 7 – Trueing the Center Front Panel

Step 3B Smooth out any odd shaped lines.

113 Module 7 – Trueing the Center Front Panel

Step 4A Create the front flare by measuring over 2” from the princess/hem marking.

114 Module 7 – Trueing the Center Front Panel

Step 4B Connect a straight line from the waistline to that flare mark.

115 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 8 – Draping the Center Back Panel

Step 1A Finger press the center back seam allowance.

116 Module 8 – Draping the Center Back Panel

Step 1B Line up your center back panel matching the neckline of the muslin block to the center back/neckline intersection of the dress form. Secure it with a pin.

117 Module 8 – Draping the Center Back Panel

Step 1C Place a temporary holding pin to hold the muslin while you secure pins along center back, at the waist and at the hipline.

118 Module 8 – Draping the Center Back Panel

Step 2A Smooth the muslin across the shoulder blade area to the armhole ridge. Make sure that you keep the muslin grain parallel to the floor.

119 Module 8 – Draping the Center Back Panel

Step 2B Secure pins at the shoulderline and at the armhole ridge.

120 Module 8 – Draping the Center Back Panel

Step 2C Place pins at the princess stylepoint and along the princessline.

121 Module 8 – Draping the Center Back Panel

Step 2D Pin at the waistline and at the hemline.

122 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 9 – Marking the Center Back Panel

Step 1A Begin marking your center back panel by dotting the back neckline.

123 Module 9 – Marking the Center Back Panel

Step 1B Place a crossmark at the shoulder/neckline intersection then dot the midpoint of the shoulder line.

124 Module 9 – Marking the Center Back Panel

Step 1C Crossmark the shoulder/armhole intersection and the princess stylepoint/armhole intersection.

125 Module 9 – Marking the Center Back Panel

Step 1D Continue to dot along the princessline.

126 Module 9 – Marking the Center Back Panel

Step 1E Place a crossmark at the waistline.

127 Module 9 – Marking the Center Back Panel

Step 1F Place a crossmark at the hemline.

128 Module 9 – Marking the Center Back Panel

Step 2A Place a dash mark at the center back/hemline intersection.

129 Module 9 – Marking the Center Back Panel

Step 2B Place a dash at the waistline.

130 Module 9 – Marking the Center Back Panel

Step 3 Transfer the 2 princessline dash marks which represent your back notches.

131 Module 9 – Marking the Center Back Panel

Step 4 Check to make sure that you have captured all of your markings before removing the drape from the dress form.

132 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 10 – Trueing the Center Back Panel

Step 1A Use your styling curve to connect the neckline dots from center back to the shoulder/neckline intersection.

133 Module 10 – Trueing the Center Back Panel

Step 1B Make sure that center back is a right angle.

134 Module 10 – Trueing the Center Back Panel

Step 2 Using your clear plastic ruler, draw in the shoulder seam from the neck/shoulder intersection to the shoulder/armhole intersection.

135 Module 10 – Trueing the Center Back Panel

Step 3 Using a combination of your French curve and hip curve, draw in the princess seam by connecting all of the dots and marks from the princess stylepoint to the waistline.

136 Module 10 – Trueing the Center Back Panel

Step 4A To create a flare on the back panel, measure out 2” from princess/hipline intersection and place a mark.

137 Module 10 – Trueing the Center Back Panel

Step 4B Connect the waistline to that point to create the new princess seamline.

138 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 1 For the sleeve portion of this blouse you will need your straight sleeve sloper and your side panel underarm measurement. With the folded edge of the sleeve facing you, measure your armhole beginning at the underarm and place a mark when you reach your side panel underarm measurement. This represents the princess stylepoint. 139 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 2 Square a line 4 “ down from the elbow line, this represents the 3/4 length sleeve.

140 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 3 With your center front panel facing up, lay the front and back pieces on top of each other, wrong side to wrong side.

141 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 4 Before you flip the pieces over so that the back faces up, transfer your princess stylepoint and the shoulder/armhole intersection on the wrong side of the center front panel.

142 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 5A Pin the front and back muslin panels together beginning at the shoulder/armhole intersection, at the shoulder midpoint and at the shoulder/neckline intersection.

143 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 5B Continually turn the muslin to the front side to check that your pinning is accurate.

144 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 5C Pin the front & back muslin panels together matching the princess stylepoints.

145 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 6 There will be fullness on the back panel between the shoulder and the princess stylepoint, this is necessary since it accommodates the fullness of the back.

146 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 7A Check that your front and back muslin panels are equi-distant from the edge so that your grainlines are matching. Match along center back, at the shoulder and at the hem.

147 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 7B Once your grainlines are matching, pin the panels together lengthwise along center back, trapping the back ease as you pin.

148 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 7C Then pin the muslin together along the width edge above the shoulder and along the hem edge.

149 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 8 Once you have pinned three sides of the block then trap your shoulder fullness at a 45 degree angle and then pin the remaining edge.

150 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 9A Place your ruler in line with the shoulder seam intersection and the raw edge of the muslin. Draw a 2” x 2 “ square.

151 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 9B Connect a diagonal line that extends beyond the square to the end of the muslin, using your yardstick.

152 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 10A With your back ease trapped in line with the diagonal line, position your sleeve on the muslin in 2 places, matching the sleeve’s underarm stylepoint to the stylepoint of the muslin, so that it is parallel to the bias guideline.

153 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 10B Make sure that your back ease is positioned in the center of the sleeve and then trap your ease with pins to the end of your sleeve’s length.

154 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 11A Align and pin the stylepoint of the sleeve to the stylepoint of the muslin.

155 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 11B Pivot the sleeve so that the folded edge of the sleeve is in line with the diagonal line on the muslin.

156 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 11C Use your ruler to check.

157 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 12A Once the sleeve is even, place crossmarks at the bicepline, the elbowline and at the hemline.

158 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 12B You will also mark the sleeve underseam at the hemline and at the elbowline.

159 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 13A Measure up from the underarm 1/2” and place a mark.

160 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 13B Pivot your sleeve from the princess stylepoint until you touch the 1/2” mark. This allows more movement for the sleeve.

161 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 13C Trace off the armhole from princess stylepoint to the underarm.

162 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 13D Crossmark the armhole/sleeve underseam intersection. Then remove the sleeve sloper.

163 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 14A Raise the shoulder 1/4” and the bicep 1/2”.

164 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 14B Blend a line to the neckline.

165 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 14C Blend another line to the sleeve hemline using both your styling curve and hip curve.

166 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 14D True the underseam of the sleeve from the underarm to the hemline.

167 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 15A Using tracing paper, transfer the following marks onto the front muslin block: the sleeve hem intersection, the overarm seam, the underseam/hem intersection, the underseam of the sleeve and the armhole, stopping at the princess stylepoint.

168 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 15B Trace all of the notches as well.

169 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 16A True the sleeve hem with your ruler, add 1 1/2” hem allowance.

170 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 16B Trace the hem markings onto the front. Check to be sure that all of the markings transferred.

171 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 16C Trim away some of the excess muslin below the sleeve hem.

172 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 17A Next, turn the sleeve hem under to true the sleeve underseam and overseam.

173 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 17B Pin it in place then trace the sleeve hem seamlines to the other side.

174 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 18A Add 1” seam allowance to the overarm.

175 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 18B Add 1/2” to the underarm and armhole, ending at the princess stylepoint.

176 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 18C Go back and reconnect your underarm intersection.

177 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 19A Trim the excess muslin at the underarm and at the armhole, ending at the princess stylepoint.

178 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 19B Trim away the excess muslin on the sleeve overarm.

179 Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 20 Remove the pins and separate the back from the front.

180 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 1A With the center front panel facing up, lower the neckline 1/2” to accommodate the collar.

181 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 1B Retrue the neckline with your French curve.

182 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 1C With your pencil, drag a grainline across the neckline at centerfront to the muslin’s edge.

183 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 1D Add 1/2” seam allowance to the neckline and reconnect your shoulder/neck intersection.

184 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 2A Add 1/2” seam allowance from the hem to the waistline and from the waistline to the princess stylepoint.

185 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 2B Trim away the excess muslin at the neckline and at the princess line.

186 Module 1

Step 3A Add 1/2” seam allowance to the back neckline.

187 Module 1

Step 3B Drag a grainline across at center back into the 1” allowance.

188 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 4A Add 1/2” seam allowance to the princess seam ending at the princess stylepoint.

189 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 4B Trim away the excess muslin at the neckline and at the princess line.

190 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 5A Mark your stitching line onto the hem facing on the front hem.

191 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 5B Clip into the 1” seam allowance on both the front and back sleeve to release the hem.

192 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 6A Pin the overseam together, back over front from the elbowline to the edge of the muslin.

193 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 6B Using your styling curve, redraw you hemline with a red pencil.

194 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 6C Trim the excess muslin.

195 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 7A Clip into the seam allowance at the waistline on your princess side panels and on your center front and back panels to release the waist.

196 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 7B Pin your front panel over your side panel beginning at the waist to the hem.

197 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 8A Clip the waist of the center back panel.

198 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 8B Bend back the seam allowance and pin the center back panel over the side back panel from the waist to the hem.

199 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 9A Measure the length of the flare on centerfront from the waist to the hem.

200 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 9B Transfer that measurement and place a mark on the front princess seam, the side seam and the back princess seam.

201 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 10A Shape the hem using a combination of your styling curve and straight ruler.

202 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 10B Add 1/2” seam allowance and trim the excess muslin.

203 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 11A Clip into the front princess seam allowance at the notches and around the curve of the princess stylepoint.

204 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 11B Pin the center front panel over the side front panel by first lining up the lower notch.

205 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 11C Continue to pin the princess seam stopping at the princess stylepoint. Do the same for the back.

206 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 12A Once your front and back princess seams are pinned together, position your drape flat on the table so that you can pin the sleeve’s underseam.

207 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 12B Pin back over front beginning at the underarm. Match up the notch at the elbow line next, as the underarm seam is bias and has a tendency to stretch if you are not careful.

208 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 12C Continue to pin until the entire seam is pinned.

209 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 13A Next, you will connect the underarm seam. You will do this with using the pin bast- ing method, as if you were actually sewing it. Match up the sleeve’s underarm seam to the side seam of the side panels on the stitching line. Secure it with a pin.

210 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 13B Then match up the front princess stylepoint and continue to pin until you reach the side seam. Repeat this process on the side back panel.

211 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 14A Pin the shoulder/overarm seam, back over front matching the notches as you pin. Use your ruler and a sleeve board to help pin the overseam making sure not to stretch the muslin as the overseam becomes bias from the shoulder to the hem.

212 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 14B Pin up your sleeve hem.

213 Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 15 Pin your drape back on the dress form the way you draped it, matching up the key points and securing it with pins on center front and center back.

214 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 1A The first step when draping a convertible collar is to measure your neckline. Mea- sure from center front to the shoulder plus 1/8” ease. Record this measurement.

215 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 1B Measure from the shoulder to center back plus 1/8”. Record this measurement.

216 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 2A On your collar muslin block, measure in from center back, your shoulder seam to center back measurement including the 1/8” ease, and place a mark on the 1” neckline guideline. This represents your shoulder seam.

217 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 2B From that point, measure your shoulder to centerfront plus 1/8” and place another mark. This is the center front of the collar.

218 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 2C Measure up 1/2” at the center and place a mark.

219 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 3A Using your French curve, draw a curve that connects the 1/2” front mark to the shoulder mark, this is your new neckline.

220 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 3B Add 1/2” seam allowance to the new neckline.

221 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 3C Trim away the excess muslin and slash into the neckline seam allowance.

222 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 3D Fold back and fingerpress the 1” center back allowance.

223 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 4A Begin draping the convertible collar by pinning the collar to the neckline at center back.

224 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 4B Match the shoulder crossmark

225 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 4C Continue to pin along the neckline to centerfront. Match the neckline of the collar to the neckline of your drape

226 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 5A Next you will plan your collar stand. Place a pin at the desired collar stand height at center back. For this lesson the stand is 1 1/2” high.

227 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 5B Fold the collar over at center back and then place a pin at 1/2” below the back neckline so that your collar will cover the neckline seam.

228 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 5C Slash into the outer edge of the muslin to release the fabric over the shoulder area so that the collar can form but don’t slash higher than that 1/2” pin marking.

229 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 5D Continue to shape the collar as you slash until you reach the front.

230 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 6A Use style tape to form the outer edge of your collar. Begin at the 1/2” pin at center back and continue around to the center front mark making sure that your tape forms a smooth line across the shoulder area.

231 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 6B You will angle the tape as you reach the front so that you can create a pointed collar that terminates at the center of the drape.

232 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 7A Mark the collar’s edge beginning at centerfront. Continue to dot the edge until you reach the center back.

233 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 7B Trim the excess style tape and remove the collar drape from the dress form.

234 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 8A Place your collar on the table with your tracing paper underneath, face up. Trace off the neckline, the shoulder notch and your center back.

235 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 8B Flip the collar over, remove the tracing paper and the style tape and trace the outer edge of the collar. Make sure that the centerback is a right angle otherwise your collar will hike up in the back.

236 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 8C Continue to true the edge with your French curve, connecting the dots as you shape the neckline.

237 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 8D With your straight ruler finish the trueing.

238 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 8E Add 1/4” seam allowance to the collar’s edge.

239 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 8F Place the collar back on the tracing paper and transfer the outer edge markings of the collar.

240 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 8G Trim away the excess.

241 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 9A Your undercollar will be cut on the bias so that your collar will have a better roll line. Begin by preparing muslin block measuring 13” on the length grain and 11” on the cross grain.

242 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 9B Place a bias line by coming in 5” from the left corner on both sides.

243 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 9C Line up the center back of your upper collar to the bias guideline and pin them together.

244 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 9D Trace off all seam lines and your shoulder crossmark.

245 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 9E Trim the excess muslin only at the neckline and the center back. Then, separate the pieces.

246 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 9F The under collar is 1/8” smaller on the outer edge to nothing at the center front. Place your ruler at center front and come in 1/8” at the collar point. Connect a line.

247 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 9G Then come in 1/8” around the collar’s edge to the center back. Reducing the size of the under collar will prevent the under collar from rolling out and showing on the front.

248 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 9H Add 1/4” seam allowance to this new collar edge.

249 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 9I Trim the excess seam allowance.

250 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 10A Clip into the neckline seam allowance of the body beginning at center front.

251 Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 10B Pinbaste the collar into neckline, matching the shoulder notch and center front, distributing the ease as you pin.

252 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 14 – Button and Buttonhole Placement

Step 1A For planning button and buttonhole placement begin by pinning the garment on your dress form and locate the desired breakpoint of your collar and lapel.

253 Module 14 – Button and Buttonhole Placement

Step 1B Plan your buttonholes by considering the first button, the breakpoint, the apex and the waistline. Make sure that your buttons are evenly spaced. You may go 1/2” above or below apex if necessary but for a fitted garment you must have at button at the waistline.

254 Module 14 – Button and Buttonhole Placement

Step 1C Place pins to mark the placement of each button.

255 Module 14 – Button and Buttonhole Placement

Step 2A With the garment flat on the table, mark the button placement and remove the pins.

256 Module 14 – Button and Buttonhole Placement

Step 2B With your ruler, measure over 1/8” into the button extension, then measure back the width of the button measurement plus the 1/8” ease. Your buttonhole markings must be at a right angle to centerfront.

257 Module 14 – Button and Buttonhole Placement

Step 2C Place end marks on both sides of your buttonhole markings.

258 Module 14 – Button and Buttonhole Placement

Step 3 Transfer the center of the buttons onto your left side block and crossmark.

259 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 15 – Planning a Front Facing

Step 1A To create a front facing begin by placing your muslin block facing piece under the garment front, matching the center line of the facing to that of the garment.

260 Module 15 – Planning a Front Facing

Step 1B Measure 2” away from center front at the hemline and crossmark.

261 Module 15 – Planning a Front Facing

Step 1C Next, mark 2” away from the seamline of the shoulder/neck intersection and place another crossmark.

262 Module 15 – Planning a Front Facing

Step 1D Using your straight ruler and hip curve, shape the front facing connecting the shoulder and hem crossmarks.

263 Module 15 – Planning a Front Facing

Step 2A Trace all stitching line markings at hemline, the shoulderline, the neckline and the facing’s edge. Separate the pieces.

264 Module 15 – Planning a Front Facing

Step 2B Add 1/4” seam allowance to the edge of the facing and 1/2” to the shoulder.

265 Module 15 – Planning a Front Facing

Step 2C Trim remaining excess muslin.

266 Module 15 – Planning a Front Facing

Step 2D Finished Princess Kimono Blouse.

267