Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements
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Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements Step 1A Begin the drape by applying style tape from apex to apex. 1 Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements Step 1B Tape the desired hemline, which for this silhouette will be 4” below the waistline. Make sure that your style tape is parallel to the floor. 2 Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements Step 2A Establish the princess style points by measuring down 3/4” from the plate screw and then apply style tape. Be sure that your front and back measurements are the same when measured from the side seam. 3 Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements Step 2B Use your flex curve to check. 4 Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements Step 3A Style tape your princess styleline on the front, using your form’s princess line as the your guide. 5 Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements Step 3B Style tape your princess styleline on the back. 6 Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements Step 4 For the center front and back block length take the measurement from the back neck to the hem plus 6”. The block’s width for a 3/4” sleeve will be 28” wide. 7 Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements Step 5A For the length of both front and back side panel block measure from the top of the princess style tape to the hem plus 4”. 8 Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements Step 5B For the side back width measure under the armplate from princess seam to the side seam plus 8”. Record these measurements. 9 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines Step 1A Referring to your recorded measurements, measure all of your muslin pieces. 10 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines Step 1B Tear all of your muslin pieces. 11 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines Step 1C Block all of your muslin pieces. 12 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines Step 1D Press all of your muslin pieces. 13 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines Step 2A On the front block measure in 1 1/4” from the right side edge and drag a guideline down, this represents center front. 14 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines Step 2B Measure over 3/4” from the edge and drag a guideline down, this represents the buttonhole extension. 15 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines Step 3 At center front, measure down 4” from upper edge and cross mark, this is the front neckline. 16 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines Step 4A On the back, measure in 1” from the left side edge and drag a guideline down this represents center back. 17 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines Step 4B At center back, measure down 3” from upper edge and cross mark, this is the back neckline. 18 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines Step 5 For the front & back princess muslin blocks, drag a guideline down the center of each block this represents the straight grainline. 19 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines Step 6A Create a front facing piece measuring 25” long by 10” wide. 20 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines Step 6B Mark a center front guideline at 1 1/4 ” away from the edge 21 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines Step 6C Mark another guideline at 3/4” in from the edge, same as you did on the front block. 22 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines Step 7A For the convertible collar, block a piece of muslin 12” wide by 6” long. Place a guide- line 1” in from the left side representing center back 23 Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines Step 7B Place another guideline 1” up from the lower edge, representing the neckline. 24 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 1A Align the side front muslin block guideline onto the center of the side panel of the dress form. Place a pin at the top of the princessline and another at the waistline. 25 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 1B Place a pin at the waist/styline intersection. 26 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 1C Pin the side seam/waist intersection. 27 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 1D Pin at the side seam/hem intersection. 28 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 2A Secure the armhole/side seam intersection with 2 pins for stability. 29 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 2B Pin along the princessline style line to the waistline, adding and trapping ease at the apex area as you go. 30 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 2C Place another pin at the hem. 31 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 3A Begin marking the front panel by placing a crossmark at the armhole/princess inter- section. 32 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 3B Mark along one side of the styletape to the waist, placing a crossmark at the apex, 33 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 3C Crossmark the waistline. 34 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 3D Crossmark the hem. 35 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 3E Continue dotting the hem. 36 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 3F Place a crossmark at the side seam. 37 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 3G Mark the side seam/waist intersection. 38 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 3H Mark the underarm/side seam intersection. 39 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 4 Place 2 dash marks at 1 1/2” above and below the apex at the princess styleline. These represent your ease notches. 40 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 5 Check to be sure that you captured all of the markings then remove the drape from the dress form. 41 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 6A Begin draping your side back panel by aligning the muslin block guideline onto the center of the side back panel of the dress form. 42 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 6B To keep the muslin out of your way while draping, place temporary holding pins on front and back. 43 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 6C Pin the guideline at the underarm and at the waistline. 44 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 6D Pin at the side seam and at the princess waistline adding a pinch of ease. 45 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 6E Place pins at the hem at the princess styleline, 46 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 6F Pin at the side seam. 47 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 6G Pin at the armhole/side seam intersection. 48 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 6H To hold the back panel better, place 2 pins at the armhole/princessline intersection and continue to pin along the princess styleline to the waist. 49 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 6I Then place a pin at the hem. 50 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 7A Begin marking the side back panel with a crossmark at the side seam/hem intersec- tion 51 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 7B Mark at the waistline. 52 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 7C Continue marking the underarm/side seam intersection 53 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 7D Mark the princessline/side seam intersection. 54 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 7E Mark along the princess styleline to the waistline. 55 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 7F Place a crossmark at the waistline 56 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 7G Place a crossmark at the hem. 57 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 7H Place dot marks along the hemline. 58 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 8A Place 2 dash marks about 1” below the curved part of the back styleline, these are your back notches. 59 Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels Step 8B Once you have checked that all your markings were captured, remove the back drape from the dress form. 60 Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel Step 1 Begin trueing the side seam of the side front panel using your straight ruler. Connect from underarm to the waistline.