ClassT/\n5\ Book ^_3l fopiglitlli CQFXKIGHT DEPOSm «1 I CANCEL'S Culinary Encyclopedia MODERN COOKING THE MOST COMPLETE AND CONCISE GLOSSARY EVER COMPILED AND PUBLISHED Over 8,000 Recipes and 300 Articles ALIMENTARY, HYGIENIC, DIET AND HOUSEHOLD RECIPES. TABLE SERVICE : : ORDER OF SERVICE OF WINES MARKET LIST, ETC. English and Freneh Editions ^WE PRICE: $2.50 l?*^ ON SALE AT EVERY BOOK STORE x>. <k: ft.* Copyrighted, 1920 Cancel, 149 Mason St., San Francisco, Cal. \ ©C(ii576543 ' "L'animal se repait, i'homme mange; L'homme d'esprit seul sait manger." — Brillat-Savarin. "Mon art est de flatter I'appetit, votre devoir est de le regler."—Careme. "La qualite la plus indispensable du cuisinier est Texactitude; elle doit etre aussi celle du convie.— Brillat-Savarin. PREFACE The prevailing custom among the best hotels and restaurants of printing their menus in French has resulted in a continually increasing number of guests who demand of the waiter a descrip- tion of a dish before ordering it. The waiter frequently guesses, often wide of the mark, and the result is a disappointed and dissatisfied guest, or the waiter Toothers a too busy chef whose des- cription is necessarily l^rief, hurried and incom- plete. The latter way consumes a waiter's valu- able time and tries the patience of a hungry and waiting diner. , \ My aim, therefore, in compiling this bool^ has been to supply head waiters and waiters with immediate, accurate and sufficiently detailed in- formation to enable them to quickly ^furnish a patron with a satisfactory descriptioii^oi any dish /^ on the menu. - u '*'A . Chefs, managers, stewards^ #€^li|i^'iw^iters, housewives, etc., furthermore willJ:^f?<Jv5^L^tiames or recipes of many dishes not to ^^kyn^ else"^ where, and" the descriptions, tJiQUgh B:^itf, are sufficient for any one for the variation of their menus. Forty-five years of experience in the best and largest hotels and restaurants of Europe and America, as stated below, has enabled me to collect over 8,000 recipes as made by them. This '^Encyclopedia" will facilitate the work be- tween the dining-room and the kitchen, enable both to ''pull together," expedite the service, and prove generally satisfactory. That my colleagues and all interested will find therein a realization of my aims, is the sincere v/ish of Yours fraternally, J. CANCEL. MY REFERENCES Apprenticeship: Rennes, France, 1874. Forty-five years of experience as chef with the best liotels of Europe and America. These hotels include the following- Tlie AValdorf- Astoria and Shen-y's, New York; Cafe de 1« Paix, Paris; Rocher de Cancale and Bertraxid, Antwerp; Brazilian Embassy, Brussels; Press Club, Paris; Hotel Bellevue, Brussels; Grand Hotel, Paris; Continental Hotel, Ostende; Grand Hotel, Brussels; Union League Club, New York; Restaurant du Moulin Rouge, Paris; Plaza Hotel, New York; Hotel des Roches Noires, Trouville; Baron Rothschild, Vienna; Palais de I'Industrie, Paris; Kursaal, Ostende; Hotel Splendide, Paris; Belleclair, New York. For two years at Taifs Cafe, San Francisco. Present time. Chef at Family Club, San Francisco. — 4 — AVANT-PROPOS (Introduction) In presenting this culinary book to the public, I can conscientiously say that it is the most complete and up- to-date book ever prepared on the subject. A large portion of this book has been translated from mj' French book. I am noi a literary man, but I know that even with the difficulty that exists in expressing in English many of the French terms, this book will be easily understood and greatl}^ appreciated. This is the first time in history that such a wonder- ful collection of recipes has been made obtainable for general use. A careful study of the recipes and care- ful application of the directions for same is all that is necessary to produce the results that have become famous. One word about the transformation of the ancient to the modern cooking. The application of fire for cook- ing purposes dates from the time or betv/een the time of the Anthropophagi and the Aryan race when men drank the blood of animals, ate the intestines and roasted the carcass. It is difficult to precise at just what epoch man used fire for cooking. It is historically known that civilization and culinary luxuries existed with the Greeks to a high degree of perfection and were greatly superior to our modern cooking; also the Greeks were advanced eighteen centuries before the Italians, Germans, Russians and Gauls in the art of cooking. The French are universally known as the best culinary artists. It is always with a dinner that we celebrate three phases in life, namely: birth, marri- age and death. Certain authors claim that the kitchen is a temple and the range an altar. Unfortunately, all kitchens are not temples, and in my long experience in hotels and restaurants I certainly have come across a great many obstacles. A model kitchen is yet to be made. The architect or proprietor does not wish to consult with competent culinary people. Of course, I speak for certain houses. When one sees the magnificent and gorgeous hotels and restaurants and then visits the kitchens, which are mostly situated in basements, obscure and badly venti- lated, it must be realized how an hygienic installation is necessary. There are a few modern hotels and restaurants who have commenced to reconstruct the kitchens, but it will take a long time to establish an hygienic one. An hygienic kitchen should conform to the necessities of the work. When you see the cooks come out of the basement kitchens, pale and very often rheumatic, it is no wonder that they are so, considering that they have been shut up in such an atmosphere, forced to inhale the gas from the range and the fumes generating in the cook- ing utensils. Pressed by the headwaiter and others for two or three consecutive hours to "hurry up," these men return to their homes tired out. Give to these men sanitary, hygienic, well lighted and ventilated kitchens. Such would be an act of humanity as well as a public necessity. The walls of the kitchens should be made of enameled bricks and the floors of concrete. The range, as much as possible in the center, surrounded by an iron grat- ing, sprinkled with sawdust, a ventilator and aspiring apparatus to aspire the heat and steam that escapes. The tables and shelves should be made of steel, to facili- tate their cleaning. All of the table service should be kept in the heating oven. All the cooking utensils should be in bi-metal, copper or aluminum. Enameled utensils should never be used, and should be strictly prohibited, as there is great danger of pieces of enamel breaking and mixing with the food, which causes ap- pendicitis and other serious diseases. AUTHOR. — 6 — HORS-D'OEUVRE DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF RELISHES Many relishes are served for Entrees The ancient Greeks and Romans considered relishes a great delicacy, so it is nothing new in the modern cooking of today. There are two different kinds of relishes, hot and cold, and should be served before the soup, principally the cold ones, as the hot relishes are sometimes served as small entrees. But if the hot relishes are desired, one should be careful not to serve the same as any other dish already composing the menu. There are a great many varieties of hot and cold rel- ishes, and they should be made very fancy to excite the appetite. Cold relishes such as oysters, caviar, olives, radishes, celery and sardines should be kept on ice or in a cool place and served only a few seconds before eating. Relishes, Shrimps RELISHES (Hors-d'OEuvre) Abbreviations: H., Hot; C, Cold; Gar., Garnished; Jul., Julienne. Aceto, C. Vegetable and fruit pickled in vinegar. Achards, C. Macedoine of vegetables, pickled in mustard. — 7 CANCEL'S CULINARY ENCYCLOPEDIA AgnoHti, C. Small patties of noodle paste with divers meat. (Ravioli style.) Agoursis, C. Dill pickles. Aiguillette, C. Sticks of puff paste, gar. with divers stuffing. Ailumette, C. Match sticks of puff paste with divers stuffing or w. cheese. Ambigu, C. Rich buffet of fancy assorted meat. Amandes, C. Almonds, peeled, dried, gummed, salted, brovrned in oven. Americain C. Sweet mixed pickles in bottle. Anchoyade, C. Anchovies puree and toast with sliced onions and hard egg basted with olive oil. Anchois, C. Anchovies Canape or medallion shaped, in - salad, or served with divers stuffing. Anguille, C. Eel in jelly. Pie or smoked. Antipasti, C. Italian relishes, pickled fish (in can). Artichokes, C. or H. Raw with pepper sauce or salad, , bottom cooked garnished divers style. Hot, garnished with divers puree or salad. Greek style, C, scalded pickled w. oil, vinegar, w. Jul., celery, carrots, spices. Aspic, C. All meat, chicken, game, fish, in decorated mould, with jelly. Attereaw, H. Oysters, chicken, sweetbreads, cooked on skewer, enveloped Villeroy sauce, breaded English style, fried, divers sauce. Barquettes, H. and C. Small boat of paste, gar. with caviar puree, salad, etc. Beets, C. Pickled, sliced, in dice, salad, etc. Beignets, H. Fritters, of fish, meat, vegetables, dipped in batter, fried. Beurrecks, H. Turkish relishes, croquettes of cottage cheese cigar shape enveloped in noodle paste, breaded English style, fried. Blinis, H. Small buckwheat cakes, made with yeast, served with caviar. Boeuf fume, C. Smoked beef cornet-shaped or sliced. Bondons, C. Cylindrical mould, filled with forcemeat, poached. Divers sauce. Bonne-Bouche, C. Cream puff filled with puree of foie- gras mixed w. whipped cream. RELISHES Bouchees, H. and C. Small patties, round, square, oval, filled with divers puree, or salpicon. (See under head- ing of Bouchees.) Boudin, H.