Proposal for selection of new higher doctorate academic dress Scott Pilkington

October 2019

Executive Summary AUT has recently had approved by CUAP the addition of two higher doctorates (DLitt and DSc) in addition to the suite of current named and other doctorates (PhD, DHSc, and EdD). There is the potential that additional higher doctorates may be created in future (e.g. LLD, DEng). As such, an opportunity is presented to develop new academic dress for these qualifications that sets them apart from the other doctorates being awarded by the university.

Following here is an analysis of the historical context and review of other universities, and then the proposal for new doctoral academic dress (regalia) at AUT. Four designs have been proposed, with design D (p37) being recommended by the Graduate Research School for adoption. Costings have been obtained and are provided in appendix 4 (p28).

The design recommended blends the styles used for the current doctorates and for the official party to facilitate a design that is sufficiently elevated to recognise the life work of a graduate, without competing with the finery worn by the Chancellor and Vice Chancellor.

Degree DLitt DSc Robe Black Cambridge Specialist Doctoral Gown Black Cambridge Specialist Doctoral Gown with sleeves lined in “post office red”; full- with sleeves lined in “post office red”; full- length 100mm damask front facings in length 100mm damask front facings in “post “post office red”; hemmed with 50mm office red”; hemmed with 50mm gold satin; gold satin; and with a button above the and with a button above the sleeve with a sleeve with a gold cord gold cord Cap Black velveteen Tudor bonnet with “post Black velveteen Tudor bonnet with office red” silk ribbon around the crown “cornflower” silk ribbon around the crown ending in a fork ending in a fork Hood Cambridge style [f1] and made of silk of Cambridge style [f1] and made of silk of the the colour “post office red” (BCC No 209) colour “post office red” (BCC No 209) lined lined with “post office red” in silk and with “cornflower blue” in silk and edged in edged in bone bone

Contents Executive Summary ...... 2 Historical context ...... 3 Design of new academic dress ...... 17 Erratum consideration ...... 22 Appendix 1 References Cited ...... 24 Appendix 2 Glossary ...... 25 Appendix 3 Groves Classification of Hoods (summary table by Paul Coxon) ...... 26 Appendix 4 Examples of textile design ...... 27 Appendix 5 Cost of higher doctorate academic dress ...... 28 Appendix 6 Gown design ...... 29

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Historical context As illustrated by Noel Cox, several of New Zealand’s university share a very similar tradition of academic dress due to all having been part of the University of New Zealand (1870-1961).1 I will start by reviewing how these different universities who share a common history have designed their doctoral academic dress, and then look at the others. Years of founding for all institutions have been provided. Cox specifies that in New Zealand when robe colour is not specified, it is to be of black cloth or stuff.

Two polytechnics, a private training institution and one Wananga offer doctoral programmes, but information was not available for all institutions, so they have been excluded from this study.2

The oldest of them all (and predating the University of New Zealand), the University of Otago (1869) offers the largest number of doctorates of the New Zealand universities (14): The Doctor of Philosophy (PhD), two honorary doctorates, seven higher doctorates, and four named doctorates. The PhD dress is the Cambridge Master of Arts gown [m2],3 but is made of ruby red4 silk, silk like fabric, or cloth. The hood is the same size and shape as for the Cambridge Master of Arts [f1] and is of ruby red silk or silk like fabric, lined with silk or silk like fabric in colour ruby red. The cap for all doctorates at Otago is the black velvet cap as work by doctors of Scottish Universities [h3]. The dress for the named doctorates is the same as for the PhD, except that the hood is lined with silk or silk like fabric in the relative subject colour. The dress for the Honorary Doctor of University of Otago is not specified.5 The other honorary doctorate, the Doctor of Divinity (DDiv),6 and the higher doctorates are similar to that of the PhD: a Cambridge MA gown but made of cardinal red silk,7 silk like fabric, or cloth; and a Cambridge hood made wholly of coloured silk in the relative subject colour. All of the doctorates match the colours used by other programmes in their subject area:

Doctorate8 Other examples Subject colour DBA Business Administration Named BCom, MCom, MBA Tangerine9 DClinDent Clinical Dentistry Named BDS, MDS, MDent Spectrum violet10 DCom Commerce Higher BCom, MCom Tangerine DDSc Dental Science Higher BDS, MDS, MDent Spectrum violet

1 Noel Cox, "Academical Dress in New Zealand," Burgon Society Annual 2 (2001). 2 These were: • Medical Research Institute of New Zealand: Doctor of Medicine (MD) • Te Whare Wananga o Awanuiarangi: Doctor of Philosophy (PhD), Doctor of Maori Development & Advancement (MDA), Doctor of Indigenous Development & Advancement (IDA) • Unitec: Doctor of Computing (DComp) • Otago Polytechnic: Doctor of Professional Practice (DPP) 3 Codes refer to Groves classification system, Nicholas Groves, "Towards a Standard Terminology for Describing Academic Dress," Transactions of the Burgon Society 1 (2001). Also see appendix. 4 BCC no. 38, for a discussion on the use of British Colour Corporation numbers see: Elizabeth Scott, "The Bcc Numbering System: Back to the Future?," ibid.5 (2005). 5 Presumably because ordinarily a higher doctorate would be awarded honoris causa instead 6 Which is a much friendlier acronym than that of the Doctor of Sacred Theology (STD/SThD) – no doubt this has raised a few eyebrows if one were to remark: “I just returned from Rome where I received my STD!” 7 BCC no. 186 8 Programmes listed in italics are offered only at this university 9 BCC no. 55 10 BCC no. 214

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Doctorate8 Other examples Subject colour DDiv Divinity Honorary BDiv, MDiv11 Violet grey EdD Education Named BEd, MEd Coral12 LLD Law Higher LLB, LLM Powder blue13 LittD Literature Higher BA, MA Rose pink14 MD Medicine Higher MBChB Lilac15 DMus Music Higher MusB, MMus White16 DMA Musical Arts Named MusB, MMus White DSc Science Higher BSc, MSc Lido blue17

The second oldest of the original four universities, the University of Canterbury (1873) offers ten doctorates: the PhD, an honorary doctorate, six higher doctorates, and two named doctorates. The PhD dress is the Cambridge Master of Arts [m2] with Peony Red18 detachable facings for formal dress. The hood is of the same material and colour as the facings of the gown and is lined with Slate Grey.19 The cap is the black bonnet as for the University of St Andrews [h3]. No separate dress is specified for the honorary doctorate, and all of the other doctorates share the same academic dress. This dress is the Cambridge Master of Arts in Signal Red20 without facings, and with a hood of their own design made entirely of silk in Slate Grey. This is quite different from many of the other New Zealand universities.

Doctorate DCom Commerce Higher EdD Education Named DEng Engineering Higher LLD Laws Higher LittD Literature Higher DMus Music Higher DMA Musical Arts Named DSc Science Higher

The University of Auckland (1883) offers 13 doctorates: the PhD, an honorary doctorate,21 four higher doctorates, and seven named doctorates. The PhD dress is the Cambridge MA gown [m2], with the addition of 100 mm satin facings, made up of 75 mm of scarlet edged with 25 mm of gold. The hood is the Cambridge hood [f1] made wholly of scarlet satin. The cap for all doctorates at Auckland is the Tudor bonnet [h2] in black with a gold cord ending in tassels. The honorary doctorate (D(UoA)) is also the Cambridge Master of Arts, but is made of scarlet satin. The hood is made wholly of satin and is

11 No longer taught 12 BCC no. 93 13 BCC no. 193 14 BCC no. 32 15 BCC no. 176 16 BCC no. 1 17 BCC no. 89 18 BCC no. 37 19 BCC no. 154 20 BCC no. 208 21 Technically any programme can be awarded on an honorary basis, usual practice is that the Doctor of Laws is usually the programme chosen

Page 4 of 38 university blue. Since 1978 when records for this began, only three of the 63 awarded were of this type. The bulk were honorary Doctors of Law (LLD) and Doctors of Literature (DLitt/LittD). In comparison, since 1996 the LLD has been awarded based on submission four times, the DLitt once, the DEng twice, and the DSc 15 times. The named and higher doctorate dress is very similar to that of the PhD. All feature the Cambridge MA gown (named doctorates in black cloth, higher doctorates in black or scarlet silk or cloth) but with facings of 50 mm wide satin in the relative subject colour. The hood is also the Cambridge hood and is made wholly of satin also in the subject colour. All of the doctorates match the colours used by other programmes in their subject area:

Doctorate Other subject qualifications Subject colour DClinPsy Clinical Psychology Named BSc, MSc Dark blue EdD Education Named BEd, Med, MTchng Emerald green DEng Engineering Higher BE, ME Dark violet DocFA Fine Arts Named BFA, MFA Gold LLD Laws Higher LLB, LLM Light blue LittD Literature Higher BA, MA Rose pink MD Medicine Named MBChB Crimson22 DMus Music Named BMus, MMus White DMA Musical Arts Named BMus, MMus White DPharm Pharmacy Named BPharm, MPharm Grey green DSc Science Higher BSc, MSc Dark blue

The fourth of the original universities that were the foundation colleges of the University of New Zealand is Victoria University of Wellington (1897), which offers ten doctorates: the PhD, an honorary doctorate, three named doctorates, and five higher doctorates. The PhD dress is the Cambridge MA gown [m2] with a stole faced with silk in Post Office Red.23 All doctorates at Victoria use the John Knox cap [h3]. The honorary doctorate does not have a specific dress. Conversely to the PhD, the other doctoral qualifications feature a hood rather than the stole. The named and higher doctorates feature the Cambridge MA gown in black or scarlet silk or cloth, with the same size and shape hood as the Cambridge Master of Arts [f1] wholly made of silk in the respective subject colour. The higher doctorates have their subject colours specified, and other doctorates are listed to wear ‘relevant subject colour hoods or stoles’:

Doctorate Other subject qualifications Subject colour DCom Commerce Higher BCA, BCom, MCom Marigold24 EdD Education Named BEd, Med, MTchng Peacock Green25 DGov Government Named MPA26 Champagne27 with Tartan Green Stripe LLD Laws Higher LLB, LLM Pompadour28

22 Although in practice it nearly always looks fuchsia, leading to some embarrassing moments at graduation if the unaware confuse newly hatched medical officers with the ‘applied arts’ (a subject no longer used) 23 BCC no. 87 24 BCC no. 56 25 BCC no. 123 26 No longer offered as the Master of Public Administration 27 BCC no. 4 28 BCC no. 194

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Doctorate Other subject qualifications Subject colour LittD Literature Higher BA, MA Rose pink29 DMus Music Higher BMus, MMus White DMA Musical Arts Named BMus, MMus White DSc Science Higher BSc, MSc Empire blue30 DHlth Health Named BHlth, MHlth Emerald DMid Midwifery Named BMid Verdigris31 with Spectrum Violet Stripe DNurs Nursing Named MNS Verdigris

Two of the other universities were associated with the University of New Zealand but were not independent degree-granting universities prior to 1963, but rather associated agricultural colleges: Lincoln University (known then as Canterbury Agricultural College) and Massey University (Massey Agricultural College). Lincoln University (1878) offers four doctorates: the PhD and three higher doctorates. They are they only New Zealand university not to offer a university honorary doctorate and to rely solely on the other doctorates when presenting honorary qualifications. The PhD dress is Cambridge Master of Arts [m2] with facings of ultramarine,32 100 mm wide the full length of the gown. The hood is the Cambridge hood [f1] and is ultramarine lined with Indian yellow.33 The cap for all Lincoln doctorates is the black bonnet as for the University of St Andrews [h3]. The higher doctorates are similar, in that they are the Cambridge Master of Arts but in signal red, and the hood and facings are in the relative subject colour. Like many of the other universities, the colours used for subjects at the doctoral level matches those worn in other programmes:

Doctorate Other subject qualifications Subject colour DCom Commerce Higher BCom, MCom, MBus Indian orange34 DSc Science Higher BSc, MSc, MApplSc Ultramarine DNatRes Natural Resources Higher MHortSc Pea green35

Massey University (1927) offers eight doctorates: a PhD, an honorary doctorate, two higher doctorates, and four named doctorates. The dress for the PhD is Cambridge MA gown [m2] with facing of cloth Post Office Red36 100 mm wide the full length of the front. The hood is the Cambridge hood [f1] made of material of the colour Post Office Red, and lined with University Blue.37 All doctorates at Massey wear the black velvet bonnet as for the Oxford Doctor of Civil Law but with a ribbon instead of cord [h2] – the colour is not specified. The dress for the honorary doctorate is a Cambridge MA gown in Post Office Red, with no facings or hood specified. The named doctorates have the same gown as the PhD, but with a Cambridge hood made of fabric in University Blue and lined with the relevant subject colour. The dress for the higher doctorates is the Cambridge Master of Arts robe in Post Office

29 BCC No. 32 30 BCC no. 87 31 BCC no. 202 32 BCC no. 148 33 BCC no. 6 34 BCC no. 6 – apparently there is no discernible difference between Indian ‘yellow’ and Indian ‘orange’ 35 BCC no. 172 36 BCC no. 209 37 BCC no. 90

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Red, with the same hoods as for the named doctorates. It is specified by the university that the hoods used for the named and higher doctorates are the same hoods as used by the master’s graduates in the same field:

Doctorate Other subject qualifications Subject colour DLitt Literature Higher BA, MA Rose pink38 DSc Science Higher BSc, MSc Smalt blue39 EdD Education Named BEd, MEd Tuscan yellow40 DBA Business Administration Named MBA Tangerine41 DClinPsy Clinical Psychology Named BA, MA Rose pink DSW Social Work Named BSW, MSW Horse chestnut42

Waikato University (1964) the first of the new universities, also offers eight doctorates: a PhD, an honorary doctorate, three higher doctorates, and three named doctorates. The dress for the PhD is a maroon gown (not specified, but Cox mentions that it is the Cambridge Master of Arts [m2]) with a crimson hood (also not specified, but Cox mentions that this is the Cambridge hood [f1]) with a crimson lining. The cap for all Waikato doctorates is the black Tudor bonnet [h2] with gold cord and tassels. The academic dress at Waikato is quite unusual compared to other New Zealand universities in that there is no subject demarcation in the colour or cut of the dress: all of the subjects wear black gowns, with a black and gold hood, and a trencher. This is replicated in form at the doctoral level, with the honorary doctorate featuring a red gown with black facings, which Cox attests includes a gold hood. Robemaker Paul Fielder adds that these are of special design with a full length frontal zip closure with black facings and back yoke (similar to American dress). The named doctorates (with the exception of the Doctor of Musical Arts which is not specified) feature the same dress as the PhD, namely a maroon gown with a crimson hood and crimson lining. The dress of the higher doctorates is a crimson gown, with a crimson hood with crimson lining.

Doctorate Gown / hood colour HonD Honorary Red / gold PhD Philosophy Maroon / crimson EdD Education Named Maroon / crimson SJD Juridical Science Named Maroon / crimson LLD Laws Higher Crimson / crimson DLitt Literature Higher Crimson / crimson DMA Musical Arts Named Not specified DSc Science Higher Crimson / crimson

The newest of the universities, Auckland University of Technology (2000)43 currently offers the least number of doctorates (4): a PhD, an honorary doctorate, and two practice-led professional doctorates. The dress for all of the doctorates is the Cambridge MA gown [m2], but with a satin facing cloth in

38 BCC no. 32 39 BCC no. 147 40 BCC no. 233 41 BCC no. 55 42 BCC no. 134 43 Founded in 1895 as a technical school, then polytechnic, and converted into a university in 2000: https://www.aut.ac.nz/about/our-history

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Post Office Red44 100 mm wide for the full length of the front, with a Cambridge hood [f1] and made of satin in the colour Post Office Red and lined with the relevant subject colour, and the cap is the black velveteen Tudor bonnet with a gold cord around the crown, the cord ending in tassels. Like many of the other universities, the colours used for subjects at the doctoral level matches those worn in other programmes (but it is worth noting that the colours chosen are vastly different to those at other universities):

Doctorate Other subject qualifications Subject colour HonD Burgundy PhD Philosophy MPhil Burgundy EdD Education Named BEd, MEd, MEdL Fuchsia DHSc Health Science Named BHSc, MHSc, MPrac Dark blue Like all of the other universities, AUT uses the Cambridge style of gown and hood for its doctorates. However, unlike the other universities, AUT uses a design of its own for the bachelor’s and master’s degrees, which Cox confirms is based on the Oxford style (although he doesn’t specify which Oxford hood this is).

The table below summarises AUT’s doctoral programmes:

Degree HonD PhD EdD DHSc Robe Cambridge Master of Cambridge Master of Cambridge Master of Cambridge Master of Arts, but with a satin Arts, but with a satin Arts, but with a satin Arts, but with a satin facing cloth in “post facing cloth in “post facing cloth in “post facing cloth in “post office red” (BCC No 209) office red” (BCC No 209) office red” (BCC No 209) office red” (BCC No 209) 100 mm wide for the full 100 mm wide for the full 100 mm wide for the full 100 mm wide for the full length of the front length of the front length of the front length of the front Hood The hood shall be The hood shall be The hood for a The hood for a Cambridge style and Cambridge style and professional doctorate professional doctorate made of satin of the made of satin of the shall be Cambridge style shall be Cambridge style colour “post office red” colour “post office red” and made of satin of the and made of satin of the (BCC No 209) lined with (BCC No 209) lined with colour “post office red” colour “post office red” burgundy burgundy (BCC No 209) lined with (BCC No 209) lined with fuchsia blue Cap The cap for a doctoral The cap for a doctoral The cap for a doctoral The cap for a doctoral graduate shall be a black graduate shall be a black graduate shall be a black graduate shall be a black velveteen Tudor bonnet velveteen Tudor bonnet velveteen Tudor bonnet velveteen Tudor bonnet with a gold cord around with a gold cord around with a gold cord around with a gold cord around the crown, the cord the crown, the cord the crown, the cord the crown, the cord ending in tassels ending in tassels ending in tassels ending in tassels

The tables below summarise doctoral programmes offered by multiple universities in New Zealand (there are several doctorates that are only awarded by one or two institutions), with the universities arranged from geographically northernmost to southernmost:

44 BCC no. 209

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Doctor of Philosophy (PhD):

UOA AUT Waikato Massey VUW UC Lincoln Otago Cambridge Master of Cambridge Master of Arts, Maroon Cambridge Master of Arts Cambridge Cambridge Master of Cambridge Master of Cambridge Master of Arts Arts, with the but with a satin facing cloth gown; with a facing of cloth 'post Master of Arts. Arts with 'Peony Red' Arts, with facings of but is made of ruby red (BCC addition of 100mm in “post office red” (BCC No crimson hood office red' (BCC No. 209 100 Stole faced (BCC 37) detachable ultramarine (BCC 148) 38) silk, silk like fabric, or satin facings, made 209) 100 mm wide for the with crimson mm wide the full length of with silk and in facing. The hood is of 100 mm wide the full cloth. The hood are the same up of 75mm of scarlet full length of the front. The lining the front. The hood shall be 'post office red' the same material and length of the gown. The size and shape as for the edged with 25mm of hood shall be Cambridge made of material of the (BCC 87) colour as the facings of hood shall be of the Cambridge Master of Arts gold. The hood is style and made of satin of colour 'post office red' (BCC the gown and lined colour ultramarine (BCC and are of ruby red silk or made wholly of the colour “post office red” No. 209) and shall be lined with 'Slate Grey' (BCC 148) and lined with silk like fabric, lined with silk scarlet satin (BCC No 209) lined with with 'university blue' (BCC 154) Indian yellow (BCC 6) or silk like fabric in colour burgundy No. 90) ruby red (BCC 38)

Honorary doctorates:

Qual UOA AUT Waikato Massey VUW UC Otago HonD Cambridge Master of Arts, but is Cambridge Master of Arts, but with a satin facing cloth in “post Red gown with black facings, Cambridge Master not not not made of scarlet satin. The hood is office red” (BCC No 209) 100 mm wide for the full length of the Cox says gold hood. Fielder of arts in 'post specified specified specified made wholly of satin, and is front. The hood shall be Cambridge style and made of satin of the says gown is zipped up the office red' university blue colour “post office red” (BCC No 209) lined with burgundy front

Named doctorates:

Qual UOA AUT Waikato Massey VUW UC Otago DMA Cambridge Master of Arts with - not specified - Cambridge Master of Cambridge Master Cambridge Master of Arts but is the addition of facings of Arts but black silk or of Arts in 'Signal made of ruby red (BCC 38) silk, 50mm wide satin. The hood is scarlet silk or cloth Red' (BCC 208) silk like fabric, or cloth. made wholly of satin and this Hood same size and The hood is made The hood are the same size and and the facings of the gown shape as Cambridge entirely of silk in shape as for the Cambridge are white Master of Arts wholly the colour of Master of Arts and are of ruby made of silk in white 'Slate Grey' (BCC red silk or silk like fabric, lined 154 with silk or silk like fabric in colour white (BCC 1)

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Qual UOA AUT Waikato Massey VUW UC Otago EdD Cambridge Master of Arts with Cambridge Master of Arts, Maroon gown; Cambridge Master of Arts Cambridge Master of Cambridge Master Cambridge Master of Arts but is the addition of facings of but with a satin facing cloth crimson hood with a facing of cloth 'post Arts but black silk or of Arts in 'Signal made of ruby red (BCC 38) silk, 50mm wide satin. The hood is in “post office red” (BCC No with crimson office red' (BCC No. 209 100 scarlet silk or cloth Red' (BCC 208) silk like fabric, or cloth. made wholly of satin and this 209) 100 mm wide for the lining mm wide the full length of Hood same size and The hood is made The hood are the same size and and the facings of the gown full length of the front the front shape as Cambridge entirely of silk in shape as for the Cambridge are emerald green The hood for a professional The hood shall be the Master of Arts, the colour of Master of Arts and are of ruby doctorate shall be Cambridge master's hood from the same presumably in 'Slate Grey' (BCC red silk or silk like fabric, lined style and made of satin of discipline (made of fabric in peacock green (BCC 154 with silk or silk like fabric in the colour “post office red” 'university blue' (BCC No. 123) colour coral (BCC 93) (BCC No 209) lined with 209) and lined with 'Tuscan fuchsia yellow' (BCC No. 233)

Higher doctorates:

Qual UOA Waikato Massey VUW UC Lincoln Otago DCom - - - Cambridge Master of Cambridge Cambridge Master of Arts but Cambridge Master of Arts Arts but black silk or Master of Arts in the colour is signal red (BCC but is made of cardinal red scarlet silk or cloth 'Signal Red' (BCC 208), and the gown is fitted (BCC 186) silk, silk like Hood same size and 208) with facings of Indian orange fabric, or cloth shape as Cambridge The hood is made (BCC 6) 100 mm wide the full The hood are the same Master of Arts wholly entirely of silk in length of the front size and shape as for the made of silk in the colour of The hood shall be of the Cambridge Master of Arts 'marigold' (BCC 56) 'Slate Grey' (BCC Canterbury Bachelor of Arts degree and are made 154 made entirely of Indian wholly of coloured silk in orange (BCC 6) silk tangerine (BCC 55) DEng Cambridge Master of Arts, - - - Cambridge - - but is made of black silk, or Master of Arts in scarlet silk or cloth. The 'Signal Red' (BCC hood is made wholly of 208) satin, and is dark violet The hood is made entirely of silk in the colour of 'Slate Grey' (BCC 154

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Qual UOA Waikato Massey VUW UC Lincoln Otago DLitt Cambridge Master of Arts, Crimson gown; Cambridge Master of Arts Cambridge Master of Cambridge - Cambridge Master of Arts but is made of black silk, or crimson hood with in 'post office red' (BCC No. Arts but black silk or Master of Arts in but is made of cardinal red scarlet silk or cloth. The crimson lining; black 209). scarlet silk or cloth 'Signal Red' (BCC (BCC 186) silk, silk like hood is made wholly of Tudor bonnet with The hood shall be the Hood same size and 208) fabric, or cloth satin, and is pink gold cord and tassel master's hood from the shape as Cambridge The hood is made The hood are the same same discipline (made of Master of Arts wholly entirely of silk in size and shape as for the fabric in 'university blue' made of silk in 'rose the colour of Cambridge Master of Arts (BCC No. 209) and lined pink' (BCC 32) 'Slate Grey' (BCC degree and are made with 'rose pink' (BCC No. 154 wholly of coloured silk in 32) rose pink (BCC 32) DMus45 Cambridge Master of Arts - - Cambridge Master of Cambridge - Cambridge Master of Arts with the addition of facings Arts but black silk or Master of Arts in but is made of cardinal red of 50mm wide satin. The scarlet silk or cloth 'Signal Red' (BCC (BCC 186) silk, silk like hood is made wholly of satin Hood same size and 208) fabric, or cloth and this and the facings of shape as Cambridge The hood is made The hood are the same the gown are white Master of Arts wholly entirely of silk in size and shape as for the made of silk in white the colour of Cambridge Master of Arts 'Slate Grey' (BCC degree and are made 154 wholly of coloured silk in white (BCC 1) DSc Cambridge Master of Arts, Crimson gown; Cambridge Master of Arts Cambridge Master of Cambridge Cambridge Master of Arts but Cambridge Master of Arts but is made of black silk, or crimson hood with in 'post office red' (BCC No. Arts but black silk or Master of Arts in the colour is signal red (BCC but is made of cardinal red scarlet silk or cloth. The crimson lining; black 209). scarlet silk or cloth 'Signal Red' (BCC 208), and the gown is fitted (BCC 186) silk, silk like hood is made wholly of Tudor bonnet with The hood shall be the Hood same size and 208) with facings of ultramarine fabric, or cloth satin, and is dark blue gold cord and tassel master's hood from the shape as Cambridge The hood is made (BCC 148) 100 mm wide the The hood are the same same discipline (made of Master of Arts wholly entirely of silk in full length of the front size and shape as for the fabric in 'university blue' made of silk in 'empire the colour of The hood shall be of the Cambridge Master of Arts (BCC No. 209) and lined blue' (BCC 87) 'Slate Grey' (BCC Canterbury Bachelor of Arts degree and are made with 'smalt blue' (BCC No. 154 made entirely of ultramarine wholly of coloured silk in 147) (BCC 148) silk lido blue (BCC 89) LLD Cambridge Master of Arts, not specified - Cambridge Master of Cambridge - Cambridge Master of Arts but is made of black silk, or Arts but black silk or Master of Arts in but is made of cardinal red scarlet silk or cloth. The scarlet silk or cloth 'Signal Red' (BCC (BCC 186) silk, silk like hood is made wholly of Hood same size and 208) fabric, or cloth satin, and is light blue shape as Cambridge The hood is made The hood are the same Master of Arts wholly entirely of silk in size and shape as for the made of silk in the colour of Cambridge Master of Arts 'pompadour' (BCC 194) 'Slate Grey' (BCC degree and are made 154 wholly of coloured silk in powder blue (BCC 193)

45 At University of Auckland the DMus is a named doctorate, but at VUW, UC, and Otago it is a higher doctorate

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Qual UOA Waikato Massey VUW UC Lincoln Otago MD Cambridge Master of Arts - - - - - Cambridge Master of Arts with the addition of facings but is made of cardinal red of 50mm wide satin. The (BCC 186) silk, silk like hood is made wholly of satin fabric, or cloth and this and the facings of The hood are the same the gown are crimson size and shape as for the Cambridge Master of Arts degree and are made wholly of coloured silk in lilac (BCC 176)

Doctoral caps:

UOA AUT Waikato Massey VUW UC Lincoln Otago The cap is as for the The cap for a doctoral black Tudor bonnet with black velvet bonnet as John Knox cap Black bonnet as for Black bonnet as for the Black velvet cap as full-dress Cambridge graduate shall be a gold cord and tassel for the Oxford Doctor of the University of St University of St worn by Doctors of Doctor of Philosophy, black velveteen Tudor Civil Law (ribbon instead Andrews Andrews Scottish Universities namely a round black bonnet with a gold of cord) velvet bonnet with a cord around the gold cord around the crown, the cord crown ending in ending in tassels tassels.

As illustrated by Cox, there is a distinct lack of consistency in subject colours through the various levels of qualification across universities. The table below shows the various subjects and disciplines that are specified, and the colour used in the hoods, stoles, scarves, and facings. I have grouped the original University of New Zealand colleges together, with Canterbury and Lincoln at the end as they have had a close relationship and have similar colours and styles. The new universities are on the far right, and show quite a difference in colour combinations. It is unclear when the subject colours were decided whether an analysis like this was ever completed so as to make a conscious effort to be similar/different.46 One thing that is certain, however, is that for the most part (except Waikato which only has one colour for all subjects) all of the universities have a variation on pink for their Arts degrees, a variation on dark blue for their Science degrees, and white for their Music degrees. Some of the subjects have been arbitrarily separated, because at some universities they are different degrees (e.g. computer science is BCIS at AUT but BSc at the other universities; or Maori Studies which is part of the BA at some universities, but a separate degree at other). The subjects have been ordered so that similar colours are grouped together. Numbers listed are where BCC numbers have been provided.

46 Certainly nothing as in-depth as that done at Warwick in the 1960s: Nicholas Jackson, "The Development of Academic Dress in the University of Warwick," Transactions of the Burgon Society 8 (2008).

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Subject e.g. Otago c o lo u r8 UOA c o lo u r VUW c o lo u r5 UC c o lo u r6 Lincoln c o lo u r7 Massey c o lo u r4 Waikato c o lo u r3 AUT c o lo u r2 Environment & society BES, MES cherry red 185 red Literature MLitt cardinal red 186 red rose pink pink Arts BA, MA, MCW rose pink 32 pink rose pink pink rose pink 32 pink baby pink 14 pink rose pink 32 pink gold gold red red Public policy MPP rose pink pink buttercup 53 baby pink 14 pink rose pink 32 pink gold gold Counselling MCouns buff medici crimson 240 red gold gold Business information studies BBIM tangerine 55 tangerine apricot marigold 56 gold indian yellow 6 indian Business administration BBA, MBA tangerine 55 tangerine burgundy old gold 115 gold indian yellow 6 indian tangerine 55 tangerine gold gold mid green emerald Social work BSW, MSW, MCouns sulphur 112 buff post office red 209 red gold gold Commerce + business BCom, BBus, MCom, MBus tangerine 55 tangerine orange orange marigold 56 gold indian yellow 6 indian indian yellow 6 indian indian yellow 6 indian gold gold green jade Philosophy MPhil, PhD ruby red 38 red scarlet red post office red 87 red slate grey 154 indian yellow 6 indian university blue 90 gold gold burgundy Architecture BAS, BLA, BArch, March lemon lemon nasturtium 96 nasturtium chartreuse yellow 75 c hartreuse yellow Biomedical science BBioMed, BSc petunia 108 dark blue dark blue honey bird 119 Clinical psychology MClinPsych, DClinPsy dark blue dark blue rose pink 32 pink Communication studies BCS, MCS, MJour indian yellow 6 indian gold gold gold gold Sport science BSR, MSpEx, Mdiet mistletoe 9 dark blue dark blue post office red 209 red neyron rose 35 indian yellow 6 indian gold gold deep royal Vinology BV&O champagne 2 Education BEd, MEd coral 93 pink emerald green emerald peacock green 123 peac oc k african brown 20 africa tuscan yellow 233 tuscan gold gold fuchsia fuc hsia Maori studies BMD, MIndSt fawn 138 rose pink pink rose pink 32 pink baby pink 14 pink black gold gold purple AgriCommerce BAgrCommerce spectrum orange 57 orange verdigris_202 v erdigris Medicine MBChB, BHB lilac 176 crimson red Education leadership MEdL rustic brown munsell 10 africa emerald green emerald peacock green 123 peac oc k old gold 616 gold gull grey 81 gold gold fuchsia fuc hsia Education teaching BTchng, MTchng, MTchLn flame 95 red emerald green emerald peacock green 123 peac oc k old gold 616 gold gull grey 81 gold gold fuchsia fuc hsia Planning BPlan, MPlan, MUrbPlan rose pink 32 pink charteuse green mauve 178 c roc us Agricultural science BAgSc emerald green 213 emerald emerald 213 emerald Agriculture BAg, MAg emerald green 213 emerald pea green 172 pea green Applied economics BApplEcon, MApplEcon dioptase 203 dioptase Applied science BApSc straw gold 51 gold cornflower blue c ornflower Design + fine arts BDes, BFA, MFA, MArtsMgt rose pink 32 pink gold gold kenya red 237 red white 1 white 1 gold gold antique gold gold Horticulture BHort, MHortSc pea green 172 pea green grass green 103 jade Medical laboratory science / medical science BMLSc, MMLSc, MMEdSc crocus mauve 177 c roc us crimson red jade jade light blue Pharmacy BPharm, MPharm spectrum green 100 jade grey green Hospitality + tourism BIHM, BITM, MTour, MIHM, MITM, MGast purple brown 136 french beige 166 dusty pink 70 pink gold gold burnt orange orange Engineering BE, BEngTech, ME, MCM straw gold 51 gold dark violet v iolet pansy 180 v iolet violet 179 v iolet claret 36 c laret gold gold yellow Dance studies BDance, MDance mistletoe 9 jade jade sapphire Education higher MEd, MHEd graphite 155 emerald green emerald peacock green 123 peac oc k african brown 20 africa tuscan yellow 233 tuscan gold gold fuchsia fuc hsia Optometry BOptom, MOptom blue green Physiotherapy BPhty, MPhty peacock green 123 peac oc k blue Theology BTheol, MTheol, MMin kingfisher blue 164 forest green Applied arts + performing arts BAppArt dusk Munsell 5 rose pink pink clover 229 c lov er Environmental management BEnvMgmt, MSc, MEnvMgmt, MNaRMEE dark blue dark blue ultramarine 148 ultra mauve 178 c roc us tartan green 26 jade Laws LLB, LLM, MLS powder blue 193 light blue pompadour 194 ice blue 234 gold gold forest green Computer Science BCIS, MCIS, BSc, MSc lido blue 89 lido dark blue dark blue empire blue 87 empire ultramarine 148 ultra turquoise 118 parma violet 216 v iolet gold gold light green Health science BHSc, MHSc, MPH magenta 198 fuc hsia lilac emerald emerald emerald green 213 emerald emerald 213 emerald blue Jurisprudence MJur, SJD turquoise blue 118 light blue pompadour 194 ice blue 234 Logistics and supply chain management PGDipL&SCM smalt blue 147 Nursing + midwifery BNurs, BHSc, MNurs navy blue verdigris 202 v erdigris crocus 177 c roc us blue Science BSc, BApSc, MSc lido blue 89 lido dark blue dark blue empire blue 87 empire ultramarine 148 ultra ultramarine 148 ultra gold gold cornflower blue c ornflower Mathematics BMathSc, BSc, MSc lido blue 89 lido dark blue dark blue empire blue 87 empire ultramarine 148 ultra gold gold neon pink Emergency + disaster management MEmMgt dark violet v iolet forget-me-not-blue 84 blue Oral health BOH, BHSc, MOH amethyst Munsell 7.5 c roc us blue Speech + language pathology BSLP, MSLP dark blue dark blue magenta 198 fuc hsia Technology BTech rust 58 dark blue dark blue adonis blue 85 claret 36 c laret Defence studies BA, MA pansy 180 v iolet Dental surgery BDSc, MDSc spectrum violet 214 v iolet Dental technology BDentTech, MDentTech parma violet 216 v iolet Divinity DDiv violet grey 41 v iolet Veterinary BVSc, MVSc, MVS imperial purple 109 Forestry BForSc, BE, MForSc chestnut 60 Surveying BSurv, MSurv reseda 77 Aviation BAv, MAv stone white 61 Music BMus, MMus white 1 white white white 1 white 1 gold gold Property BProp, MProp silver grey Page 13 of 38

Comparison of degree specific colours for doctorates (arranged alphabetically) across New Zealand universities (arranged in order of age):

Subject Otago c o lo u r8 UOA c o lo u r VUW c o lo u r5 UC c o lo u r6 Lincoln c o lo u r7 Massey c o lo u r4 Waikato c o lo u r3 AUT c o lo u r2 DBA tangerine 55 tangerine tangerine 55 tangerine DClinDent spectrum violet 214 v iolet DClinPsy dark blue dark blue rose pink 32 pink DCom tangerine 55 tangerine marigold 56 gold slate grey 154 indian yellow 6 indian DDiv violet grey 41 v iolet DDSc spectrum violet 214 v iolet DEng dark violet v iolet slate grey 154 ? DGov champagne DHlth emerald emerald DHSc blue DLitt rose pink 32 pink rose pink pink rose pink 32 pink slate grey 154 rose pink 32 pink crimson red ? DMA white 1 white white slate grey 154 crimson red DMid verdigris 202 DMus white 1 white white slate grey 154 DNatRes pea green 172 pea green DNurs verdigris 202 DocFA gold gold DPharm grey green DSc lido blue 89 lido dark blue dark blue empire blue 87 empire slate grey 154 ultramarine 148 ultra smalt blue 147 crimson red ? DSW chestnut 60 EdD coral 93 pink emerald green emerald peacock green 123 peac oc k slate grey 154 tuscan yellow 233 tuscan crimson red fuchsia fuc hsia LLD powder blue 193 light blue pompadour 194 slate grey 154 crimson red ? MD lilac 176 crimson red PhD ruby red 38 red scarlet red post office red 87 red slate grey 154 indian yellow 6 indian university blue 90 crimson red burgundy SJD crimson red

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While the university regulations call for gowns with attached facings, the various branches of Academic Dress Hire have made their own economies (mixed fabric gowns are difficult to dry clean) and have modified the gowns. For the universities Auckland, Canterbury, and Lincoln they use a standard black master’s gown with a separate stole of the appropriate colour. For Massey they use a standard black master’s gown with a combined hood and stole that fits on top.

The neckbands vary from university to university, and are generally not specified. For many degrees the neckband is made of black stuff that meets as a soft point or straight bar at the front. Wintec and Unitec feature their own insignia embroidered onto their neckbands, and Waiariki and Te Wānanga Takiura o Ngā Kura have screen-printed ribbons on their neckbands. AUT has a wide (nearly 10cm) white satin neckband in a full curve. Lincoln and Canterbury have a very long neckband meeting at a point with a loop that allows it to be fastened to the second button on a jacket, with masters neckbands the same colour as the hood lining. Auckland has a black neckband meeting a point in the front (making it easily fastened under a tie, but awkwardly triangular when worn on a scoop, v, or square neckline).

Additionally, it is worth noting the style and design of the prescribed academic dress for the graduation officials. It is worth noting that AUT is the only university in New Zealand to prescribe the academic dress for the Deputy Vice Chancellor. Other universities appear to prescribe that the DVC should wear own dress (the academic dress of the highest qualification they hold) unless that person is acting in another capacity in which case they should wear that dress instead (e.g. Acting Vice Chancellor).

The robe for the Chancellor of the University is an ankle length black gown with sleeves lined with gold satin. The back piece of the gown shall be trimmed with gold braid. The gown shall have full-length 105mm satin front facings, comprising 20mm bone next to front opening, followed by 10mm black and 75mm gold. The crest of the University shall be at the top of each of the facings. The base of the gown shall be hemmed with 75mm gold satin. The cap is a black velveteen Tudor bonnet with gold braid.

The robe for the Pro Chancellor of the University is an ankle length black gown with sleeves lined with gold satin. The back piece of the gown shall be trimmed with gold braid. The gown shall have full-length 95mm satin front facings, comprising 20mm black next to front opening, followed by 75mm gold. The crest of the University shall be at the top of each of the facings. The cap is a black velveteen Tudor bonnet with gold braid.

The robe for the Vice-Chancellor of the University is an ankle length black gown with sleeves lined with gold satin. The back piece of the gown shall be trimmed with gold braid. The gown shall have full-length 105mm satin front facings, comprising 20mm gold next to front opening, followed by 85mm black. The crest of the University shall be at the top of each of the facings. The base of the gown shall be hemmed with 20mm gold satin. The cap is a black velveteen Tudor bonnet with gold braid.

The robe for the Deputy Vice-Chancellor of the University is an ankle length black gown with sleeves lined with gold satin. The back piece of the gown shall be trimmed with gold braid. The gown shall have full-length 105mm satin front facings, comprising 20mm gold next to

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front opening, followed by 85mm black. The crest of the University shall be at the top of each of the facings. The cap is a black velveteen Tudor bonnet with gold braid

The robe for the senior graduation stage official of the University is an ankle length black gown with sleeves lined with blue satin. The back piece of the gown shall be trimmed with blue braid. The gown shall have full-length 105mm satin front facings, comprising 20mm bone next to front opening, followed by 10mm black and 75mm blue. The crest of the University shall be at the top of each of the facings. The base of the gown shall be hemmed with 75mm blue satin. The cap is a black velveteen Tudor bonnet with blue braid.

The robe for the Kaikorero of the University is an ankle length black gown with sleeves lined with blue satin. The back piece of the gown shall be trimmed with blue braid. The gown shall have full-length 105mm satin front facings, incorporating a poutama design. The crest of the University shall be at the top of each of the facings. The base of the gown shall be hemmed with 25mm blue satin. The cap is a black velveteen Tudor bonnet with blue braid.47

The robe for the Chief Procession Marshal is an ankle length blue gown with sleeves lined with bone coloured satin. The back piece of the gown shall be trimmed with bone coloured braid. The gown shall have full-length 105mm satin front facings, comprising 20mm bone next to front opening, followed by 10mm black and 75mm blue. The crest of the University shall be at the top of each of the facings. The base of the gown shall be hemmed with 75mm bone coloured satin. The cap is a blue velveteen Tudor bonnet with bone coloured braid.48

The robe for Procession Marshals is blue and is as for the Cambridge Bachelor of Arts, but bearing at the top of each sleeve the crest of the University.

The robe for the Graduation Marshals is blue and is as for the Cambridge Bachelor of Arts, but bearing at the top of each sleeve the crest of the University.

47 In practice the speakers usually also wear the hood of their highest degree with this dress 48 In practice, due to practicality reasons, the bonnet is periodically omitted

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Design of new academic dress I present three proposals for new academic dress. One assumes that higher doctors will be loaned the use of academic dress for the purposes of graduation (as we do now for doctors who are graduating), and the other two is on the assumption that higher doctors will be gifted (or charged the cost of the academic dress as part of their application & examination fee) the academic dress upon successful completion of the programme. In all places that ‘silk’ is mentioned, a synthetic may be substituted as required.

Proposal A: based on current doctoral academic dress Where we loan academic dress, the university has presented a preference to be able to keep ordering and buying regalia as simple as possible. This has been achieved by using the same gown that is currently used for all four doctorates: a black Cambridge MA gown [m2] with 100 mm Post Office Red facings in satin the full length of the gown. Similarly, the same bonnet will be used: a black velveteen Tudor bonnet. Differentiating these graduates (who are being recognised for a lifetime contribution to their academic field) is important. Thankfully New Zealand only has a limited number of universities and doctoral programmes, so the explosion of colours stylistic variations as seen in the US is not an issue here.49 The differentiation can be made by modifying the hood style or colour, or by adding a fourth piece of dress.

The first possibility is to change the hood from the Cambridge hood [f1] to another style hood or to develop a new style. This idea was not followed as this hood is common to all other universities within New Zealand, and because AUT already uses two different hood styles. Similarly, because the gown has facings, the idea of including a stole or scarf was also discounted.

Instead the colour of the hood can be changed. As many universities, including AUT, already carry the subject-defined colours through from bachelors to doctoral, it was thought ideal to continue the practice. However, if the same colour combination was used as is already used (hood made of satin in the colour Post Office Red and lined with a subject colour), then confusion would occur for the Doctor of Literature, as Arts related programmes at AUT use Post Office Red for their linings already, and so the DLitt would be a wholly red hood, and would thus look too similar to both the AUT PhD and the University of Auckland PhD.50 Unfortunately, as AUT does not tend to use many pastels in the colour scheme for hoods, the possibility of adopting rose pink like Auckland, Massey, Victoria, and Otago would not be ideal, as it would not continue the style currently used at AUT. Similarly, the style of Waikato and Canterbury for higher doctorates could not be copied as the university has already decided on the PhD, EdD, and DHSc and will be unlikely to change.

AUT’s university colours are burgundy, blue, and bone, and so these colours will be avoided as much as possible for graduate academic dress as these colours are often those used for officials, marshals, and ambassadors during ceremonies:51

49 David T Boven, "A Touch of Colour: Surveying Variation in American Acadmic Dress and a System of Categories for Departures," Transactions of the Burgon Society 12, no. 7 (2012). 50 As these two universities are literally across the street from each other, confusion is to be kept to a minimum 51 AUT 2017 Academic Calendar

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As such, I propose that the hood for the higher doctorates should be made in silk entirely in their respective subject colours but with an edging around the cape in the colour Bone, and with a matching silk ribbon to be tied around the crown of the bonnet in replacement of the gold cord. The colours will match those used by other programmes in the same subject:

Doctorate Other subject qualifications Subject colour DLitt Literature BA, MA, MCW Red DSc Science BApSc, BSc, MApSc, MSc Cornflower blue

There will always remain the potential for confusion. The current AUT DHSc hood looks surprisingly similar to the Massey PhD, and the DSc of Massey and Auckland. The current AUT EdD and proposed DLitt hoods could be confused for the PhDs of Otago, Auckland, or VUW, or any of the doctorates at Massey. Only familiarity with the academic dress would help with this. Other than potential confusion with the DHSc, the proposed AUT DSc looks similar to other blue + red hoods around New Zealand. The edging of bone would assist with this.

Proposal A Summary:

Degree DLitt DSc Robe a black Cambridge MA gown [m2] with 100 mm Post Office Red facings in satin the full length of the gown Cap Black velvet Tudor bonnet with gold cord around the crown ending in two tassels Hood Cambridge style [f1] and made of silk of the Cambridge style [f1] and made of silk of the colour “post office red” (BCC No 209) lined colour “post office red” (BCC No 209) lined with “post office red” with an edging with “cornflower blue” with an edging around the cape and cowl in the colour around the cape and cowl in the colour bone bone

Proposal B: new doctoral academic dress Where we gift academic dress, the university could be freer with design, and have each gown made by the university’s official robemaker (Étude Classique Ltd.) on the successful completion of the examination. A unique design that similar to current designs is achieved by integrating the designs of the office holders’ academic dress and the current doctoral academic dress.

It is important that the style of the higher doctorates’ academic dress is different enough to distinguish from the other doctorates, but also is not too similar to that of the office holders. This can be compromised by using the style of the offer holders but using the colours of the other doctorates.

As with the previous proposal, I am proposing to keep the same colour scheme:

Doctorate Other subject qualifications Subject colour DLitt Literature BA, MA, MCW Red DSc Science BApSc, BSc, MApSc, MSc Cornflower blue

I propose that the gown be black with sleeves lined with red (the doctoral colour) instead of the gold, blue, or bone satin used by the graduation officials. The office holders and other doctorates both have full-length satin front facings (105 mm wide for office holders, 100 mm wide for doctorates). To keep

Page 18 of 38 with the design of the other doctorates, the higher doctorates could also be 100 mm wide, and rather than using black, blue, or bone as the office holders do, this could be in red as the other doctorates do. My proposal is that the 100 mm be divided: 75 mm red, and 25 mm in the relevant subject colour, separated by a line of gold braid. This gold braid would be necessary for the DLitt to distinguish the two red panels. With changes to the gown, the cap could be the same as for the other doctorates (black velvet bonnet with gold braid around the crown). The hood could be the same simple [f1] style currently employed by doctors (office holders do not wear hoods), with “post office red” on the outside of the hood, and the subject colour on the inside. While this could mean the DLitt would look similar to the hood of the UOA PhD, the gown would be distinctly different. The office holders also have the back piece of their gowns trimmed with gold braid and bottom hems trimmed with 20 mm gold satin, but as the back would be hidden by the hood, for the higher doctorates only the bottom hem would need to be trimmed with 20 mm gold satin.

This will look similar to the robe of University of Sunshine Coast (Australia), but the addition of the gold braiding would differentiate the AUT qualification (see appendix for image).

Proposal B Summary:

Degree DLitt DSc Robe Black Cambridge Specialist Doctoral Gown Black Cambridge Specialist Doctoral Gown with sleeves lined in “post office red”; full- with sleeves lined in “post office red”; full- length 100mm satin front facings, length 100mm satin front facings, comprising 25mm “post office red” next to comprising 25mm “cornflower blue” next to front opening, followed by 75mm “post front opening, followed by 75mm “post office red” with gold braid separating; office red” with gold braid separating; hemmed with 20mm gold satin; and with a hemmed with 20mm gold satin; and with a button above the sleeve with a gold tassel button above the sleeve with a gold tassel Cap Black velveteen Tudor bonnet with a red Black velveteen Tudor bonnet with a blue silk ribbon around the crown ending in a silk ribbon around the crown ending in a fork fork Hood Cambridge style [f1] and made of silk of the Cambridge style [f1] and made of silk of the colour “post office red” (BCC No 209) lined colour “post office red” (BCC No 209) lined with “post office red” with “cornflower blue”

Proposal C: new doctoral academic dress featuring damask silk As mentioned in proposal B, where we gift academic dress, the university could be freer with design, and have each gown made by the university’s official robemaker on the successful completion of the examination. A unique design that similar to current designs is achieved by integrating the designs of the office holders’ academic dress and the current doctoral academic dress, and featuring damask silk to differentiate the higher doctorates.

It is important that the style of the higher doctorates’ academic dress is different enough to distinguish from the other doctorates, but also is not too similar to that of the office holders. This can be compromised by using the style of the offer holders but using the colours of the other doctorates.

Damask silk is an ideal choice in this situation. Currently featured in the material of the gowns of chancellors and vice-chancellors at various New Zealand universities, at AUT it could be used for highlighting parts of academic dress. Damask is a type of satin (a woven fabric), with the style

Page 19 of 38 originating in Damascus (Syria) in the European Middle Ages. Woven using a Jacquard loom, damasks are able to have intricate patterns incorporated into their design.52 While most damask patterns feature floral and decorative motifs, AUT’s damask could feature a uniquely South Pacific design. Unfortunately, Damask silk is difficult and expensive to produce in short runs and is only possible in the UK because standard patterns are able to be used. The same pattern effect could be produced using embroidery (as is used at Te Wānanga Takiura o Ngā Kura) or sublimation-printed facings (as is used at Massy University and Te Whare Wananga O Awanuiarangi).

As with the previous proposals, I am proposing to keep the same colour scheme:

Doctorate Other subject qualifications Subject colour DLitt Literature BA, MA, MCW Red DSc Science BApSc, BSc, MApSc, MSc Cornflower blue

I propose that the gown be black with sleeves lined with red (the doctoral colour) instead of the gold, blue, or bone satin used by the graduation officials. The office holders and other doctorates both have full-length satin front facings (105 mm wide for office holders, 100 mm wide for doctorates). To keep with the design of the other doctorates, the higher doctorates could also be 100 mm wide, and rather than using black, blue, or bone as the office holders do, or red as the other doctorates do, to have this facing in the subject colour in damask silk. With changes to the gown, the cap could be the same as for the other doctorates (black velvet bonnet with gold braid around the crown). The hood could be the same simple [f1] style currently employed by doctors (office holders’ do not wear hoods), with “post office red” on the outside of the hood, and the subject colour on the inside in damask silk. While this could mean the DLitt would look similar to the hood of the UOA PhD, the gown would be distinctly different. The office holders also have the back piece of their gowns trimmed with gold braid and bottom hems trimmed with 20 mm gold satin, but as the back would be hidden by the hood, for the higher doctorates only the bottom hem would need to be trimmed with 20 mm gold satin.

Summary:

Degree DLitt DSc Robe Black Cambridge Specialist Doctoral Gown Black Cambridge Specialist Doctoral Gown with sleeves lined in “post office red”; full- with sleeves lined in “post office red”; full- length 100mm damask-style front facings length 100mm damask-style front facings in in “post office red”; hemmed with 20mm “cornflower blue”; hemmed with 20mm gold satin; and with a button above the gold satin; and with a button above the sleeve with a gold tassel sleeve with a gold tassel Cap Black velvet Tudor bonnet with gold cord around the crown ending in two tassels Hood Cambridge style [f1] and made of silk of the Cambridge style [f1] and made of silk of the colour “post office red” (BCC No 209) lined colour “post office red” (BCC No 209) lined with “post office red” in damask silk with “cornflower blue” in damask silk

52 Examples of Damask patterns can be found at: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Damask

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Proposal D: new doctoral academic dress combining elements of other designs As with proposal C, it is important that the style of the higher doctorates’ academic dress is different enough to distinguish from the other doctorates, but also is not too similar to that of the office holders. This can be compromised by using the style of the offer holders but using the colours of the other doctorates, and incorporating damask silk on the gown facings.

As with the previous proposals, I am proposing to keep the same colour scheme:

Doctorate Other subject qualifications Subject colour DLitt Literature BA, MA, MCW Red DSc Science BApSc, BSc, MApSc, MSc Cornflower blue

I propose that the gown be black with sleeves lined with red (the doctoral colour) instead of the gold, blue, or bone satin used by the graduation officials. The office holders and other doctorates both have full-length satin front facings (105 mm wide for office holders, 100 mm wide for doctorates). To keep with the design of the other doctorates, the higher doctorates could also be 100 mm wide, and rather than using black, blue, or bone as the office holders do, to have this in red as the other doctorates do, but in damask silk. As the gown would be a higher doctorate gown and not degree specific, the bonnet could change the gold cord for a subject specific cord or ribbon around the crown. As with proposal A, the hood can be kept simple, using the [f1] style currently employed by doctors, with “post office red” on the outside of the hood, and the subject colour on the inside. To differentiate these hoods with other New Zealand (and AUT) hoods, the hood cape could be edged in bone. The office holders also have the back piece of their gowns trimmed with gold braid and bottom hems trimmed with 20 mm gold satin, but as the back would be hidden by the hood, for the higher doctorates only the bottom hem would need to be trimmed with 20 mm gold or red satin.

Summary:

Degree DLitt DSc Robe Black Cambridge Specialist Doctoral Gown Black Cambridge Specialist Doctoral Gown with sleeves lined in “post office red”; full- with sleeves lined in “post office red”; full- length 100mm damask-style front facings length 100mm damask-style front facings in in “post office red”; hemmed with 20mm “post office red”; hemmed with 20mm gold gold satin; and with a button above the satin; and with a button above the sleeve sleeve with a gold cord with a gold cord Cap Black velveteen Tudor bonnet with a “post Black velveteen Tudor bonnet with a office red” silk ribbon around the crown “cornflower blue” silk ribbon around the ending in forks crown ending in forks Hood Cambridge style [f1] and made of silk of the Cambridge style [f1] and made of silk of the colour “post office red” (BCC No 209) lined colour “post office red” (BCC No 209) lined with “post office red” in silk and edged in with “cornflower blue” in silk and edged in bone bone

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Erratum consideration The final consideration for the development of any additional academic dress is whether to acknowledge AUT’s place as the fastest growing university in a pacific city. In 2013 Massey University redesigned their academic dress to incorporate the philosophy of biculturalism, and reference the mana and prestige of the korowai. AUT may wish to incorporate (either for just this academic dress or all academic dress in the future) incorporating Maori and Pacific designs.53 http://www.massey.ac.nz/massey/about-massey/news/article.cfm?mnarticle=new-graduation- gowns-reflect-new-zealand-22-05-2013 54

Designs could be incorporated into the facings of the gowns (as was done for the Massey Chancellor and Vice-Chancellor in the above picture) or into the sleeve or hood lining.

The design for new academic dress can also go down a more creative pathway, such as the gowns designed for University of Arts London Chancellor Grayson Perry. Since becoming chancellor in 2015 he (and his alter ego Claire) wear a new set of academic dress each year, custom designed and made by current UAL students:55

53 Discussion about the appropriateness of Western-style academic dress based on mediaeval clerical dress in a modern age is ongoing, particularly in post-colonial societies. For more information, see: Jignesh Patel, "Did Iit Varanasi Students Ditch Black Gowns in Favour of Traditional Attire at Convocation?," Alt News, 16 May 2019; Erica Cervini, "If They're Modern Universities, Why Do Academics Look Stuck in the Middle Ages?," The Sydney Morning Herald 2015; David Matthews, "Indian Governor Orders Universities to Scrap 'European' Graduation Gowns," Times Higher Education (THE), 3 November 2015; DNA Web Team, "No More Robes and Caps: Iit Bombay Goes with Kurtas for 57th Convocation," 12 August 2019. 54 Image source: Jan Thomas twitter https://twitter.com/ProfJanThomas/status/861742921816489985 55 Images sourced from: https://www.arts.ac.uk/about-ual/press-office/stories

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(clockwise from top left: 2019, 2018, 2017)

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Appendix 1 References Cited Boven, David T. "A Touch of Colour: Surveying Variation in American Acadmic Dress and a System of Categories for Departures." Transactions of the Burgon Society 12, no. 7 (2012): 86-102. Cervini, Erica. "If They're Modern Universities, Why Do Academics Look Stuck in the Middle Ages?" The Sydney Morning Herald, 2015. Cox, Noel. "Academical Dress in New Zealand." Burgon Society Annual 2 (2001): 15-24. DNA Web Team. "No More Robes and Caps: Iit Bombay Goes with Kurtas for 57th Convocation." 12 August 2019. Groves, Nicholas. "Towards a Standard Terminology for Describing Academic Dress." Transactions of the Burgon Society 1 (2001): 9-12. Jackson, Nicholas. "The Development of Academic Dress in the University of Warwick." Transactions of the Burgon Society 8 (2008): 10-59. Matthews, David. "Indian Governor Orders Universities to Scrap 'European' Graduation Gowns." Times Higher Education (THE), 3 November 2015. Newton, Leonard E. "Factors Influencing the Evolution of Academic Dress at Kenyatta University, Kenya." Transactions of the Burgon Society 13 (2014): 8-27. Patel, Jignesh. "Did Iit Varanasi Students Ditch Black Gowns in Favour of Traditional Attire at Convocation?" Alt News, 16 May 2019. Rangiwai, Byron. "Wānanga Habits: The Academical Dress of Te Wānanga O Aotearoa – Notes and Images." Te Kaharoa 12, no. 1 (2019). Scott, Elizabeth. "The Bcc Numbering System: Back to the Future?". Transactions of the Burgon Society 5 (2005): 90-122. Shaw, George W. Academical Dress of British and Irish Universities. Chichester: Phillimore, 1995.

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Appendix 2 Glossary Academic dress Also known as graduation ‘regalia’.

Higher doctorate Awarded by examination on application to the university without enrolment period. Can also be awarded honoris causa.

Honorary doctorate Awarded for lifetime achievement, not by examination. Awarded honoris causa.

Named doctorate Awarded on the basis of examination following enrolment at the university. Also known as professional or vocational doctorates.

Satin Smooth glossy fabric, usually of silk but can be made from nylon.

Stuff Woollen fabric, distinct from silk, cotton, and linen. Can now be made synthetic fabrics. Is matt in finish and does not (or should not) shine.

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Appendix 3 Groves Classification of Hoods (summary table by Paul Coxon)

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Appendix 4 Examples of textile design Examples of hoods featuring damask silk

Fellowship of the Fraternity of PhD (Dublin Institute of DMus (University of Durham)57 St. Cecilia56 Technology)57

Examples of academic dress featuring indigenous designs

Honorary DLitt PhD Humanities & Social MAIK (University of Ghana)58 Science (Kenyatta University)59 (Te Wānanga o Aotearoa)60

56 Image source: Matt Edwards 57 Image source: http://www.robesofdistinction.org.uk/gallery/academical.html 58 Image source: Steven F Jackson 59 Image source: Leonard E Newton, "Factors Influencing the Evolution of Academic Dress at Kenyatta University, Kenya," Transactions of the Burgon Society 13 (2014). 60 Image source: Byron Rangiwai, "Wānanga Habits: The Academical Dress of Te Wānanga O Aotearoa – Notes and Images," Te Kaharoa 12, no. 1 (2019).

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Appendix 5 Cost of higher doctorate academic dress

Applicants for these programmes are seldom and generally few. As such, academic dress is only needed sporadically and could custom tailored for each graduate. The below are costings for the academic dress provided by AUT’s official robemaker, Étude Classique.

These prices are given as a quote only, and on creation of the academic dress, may increase:

Bonnet $98 + GST $112.70

Hood $120 + GST $138.00

Gown $676 + GST $777.40

Total $1028.10

In comparison, the other doctoral robes for AUT are priced as follows:

Package Doctoral gown Hood Bonnet Price

Economy Polyester machine-pleated Y Y $422.75

Standard Poly-viscose machine-pleated Y Y $445.55

Deluxe Poly-viscose hand-pleated Y Y $461.70

Superior Wool hand-pleated Y Y $727.70

These costs could be made up by increasing the application fee for the higher doctorates by $1000-1200.

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Appendix 6 Gown design Current AUT doctoral academic dress

61

Black velvet Tudor bonnet with gold braiding around the crown ending in two tassels62

Current AUT Graduation Officials academic dress Example: Vice Chancellor

61 Image source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Groves_classification_system 62 Images from George W Shaw, Academical Dress of British and Irish Universities (Chichester: Phillimore, 1995).

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Example: Deputy Vice Chancellor

Example: Kaikorero63

63 Images source: AUT social media team

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New academic dress proposal A64

Same gown and bonnet as other AUT doctorates. Hood lined in subject colour, bone coloured trim around outside of cape.

64 Images modified by author from Shaw, Academical Dress of British and Irish Universities.

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Item Doctor of Literature Doctor of Science

Gown

Hood

Bonnet

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New academic dress proposal B

Gown sleeves lined in ‘post office red’. Facings in ‘post office red’ and subject colour separated by gold stitching. Gown hemmed in gold. As for other AUT doctorates, hoods lined in subject colour (DLitt hood looks same as UOA PhD). Instead of gold cord, bonnets feature subject colour ribbon (ending in a fork rather than tassels as depicted).

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Item Doctor of Literature Doctor of Science

Gown

Hood

Bonnet

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New academic dress proposal C

Facings with 100mm subject colour damask silk satin

damask silk

Gown sleeves lined in ‘post office red’. Facings and hood linings in subject colour damask silk. Gown hemmed in gold. Bonnets same as other doctorates.

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Item Doctor of Literature Doctor of Science

Gown

Hood

Bonnet

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New academic dress proposal D

Gown sleeves lined in ‘post office red’. Facings in ‘post office red’ damask (currently shaded burgundy). Gowns hemmed in gold. Hoods lined with subject colour, with bone edging around cape. Instead of gold cord, bonnets feature subject colour ribbon.

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Item Doctor of Literature Doctor of Science

Gown

Hood

Bonnet

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