Liu Bao Tea

現 Modern Liu Bao Tea 代 Production in City 六 茶人: Donated by Wuzhou City Agricultural Bureau 堡 茶 In recent years, as the influence of Chinese black tea, or hei- cha, has risen, Wuzhou’s Liu Bao tea has also seen a swell in popularity. Its distinctive flavor and beneficial health proper- 生 ties have gradually earned it renewed recognition and esteem among the world’s tea lovers. Aged Liu Bao has been play- 產 fully referred to as “an antique you can drink,” and is often copared to the famous vintages of puerh tea.

iu Bao tea was originally pro- yearly temperature is between 19.3°C slightly acidic, with a pH level between L duced in several small villages and 21.4°C, while the monthly aver- 4.5 and 6.5. The soil layer is deep and in , part of the age is over 10°C throughout Wuzhou loose, with plenty of humus, nutrients, Wuzhou City area in , includ- (except for , where and water, providing a fertile environ- ing Lion Village and the tea’s name- the monthly average is below 10°C). ment ideal for growing tea and culti- sake, Liu Bao Village. The industry has The highest recorded temperature vating the microorganisms that are grown a lot since then, and Liu Bao is is 39.9°C and the lowest is -3.2°C. unique to Liu Bao. now produced in other surrounding The average yearly rainfall is between Wuzhou’s geographical, climate, villages and townships such as Cangwu 1400–1600 millimeters, with around and soil conditions are unique to the County’s Libu, Jingnan, and Shatou; 1533.7–1789 hours of sunshine per area and contribute to the region’s mi- Teng County’s Lingjing, Jinji, Xinqing year, and a typical relative humidity of crobial diversity and the growth of the and Mengjiang; Mengshan County’s 76%–82%. The region is usually frost- beneficial fungus that Liu Bao tea pro- Huangcun, Xihe and Xinwei; free for 336–349 days of the year. All duces. The environment has remained City’s Shuiwen, Nandu, and Daye; these elements add up to form a cli- reasonably stable throughout the long and two villages in districts of Wuzhou mate in Wuzhou that is perfectly suit- history of Liu Bao tea production in city: Wanxiu district’s Wangfu Village ed to growing tea plants. Wuzhou. Makers of Liu Bao tradition- and Dieshan District’s Xiaying Vil- The Wuzhou city area has a unique ally aged the tea in caves, which pre- lage. Altogether, this equals an area of topography, characterized by a low-ly- served the population of beneficial mi- around 2866 hectares of tea planta- ing central region surrounded by ele- croorganisms that are produced during tions. There are currently 24 different vated land on all sides—traditional- the manufacturing process. This pro- tea manufacturers, and together they ly described using the phrase “eight vided a favorable biological environ- produce around 7300 tons of Liu Bao mountains, one river, one field.” Sev- ment that ensured Wuzhou could con- tea each year. eral rivers flow through the region, tinue to produce pure, authentic Liu including the Xunjiang, Xijiang, Gui- Bao tea, with its unique characteristics jiang and rivers. Altogether the that are so intimately tied to the local total surface area of Guangxi’s 784 geography. The Natural Environment rivers and waterways makes up 9.28% of Liu Bao Tea Gardens of the total land area. The area where Wuzhou Liu Bao tea leaves are grown The Liu Bao Wuzhou City is situated near the is lush with vegetation all year round, Manufacturing Process Tropic of Cancer and has a subtropi- with 72% forest coverage and a plen- cal monsoon climate—it’s hot and hu- tiful water supply. The soil is mainly These days, the first of three parts mid with plenty of rain. The average clay and sandy loam and tends to be of the Liu Bao production process is

21 done as follows: “kill-green,” rolling, with machine-rolling the volume varies so the piles need to be turned over fermenting in piles, rolling again, and according to the size of the machine. from time to time to dissipate the heat. drying. The second part of processing When rolling Liu Bao tea leaves the After fermenting, the rolled tea includes sifting and shaping, separat- main thing is for the leaves to remain leaves will have started to unfurl slight- ing the stalks and leaves, heaping into intact. Breaking down the cells of the ly, so they need to be rolled again for piles, cold fermentation, drying over a leaves is of secondary importance— 5–6 minutes. Then comes the drying stove, steaming, pressing into baskets, they only need to be about 40% dam- process, which has two parts: “first fir- and aging in a cool place. aged, so an appropriate amount of pres- ing” over high heat, then “full firing” The first half of the production pro- sure must be used. The general process at a lower temperature. The tea leaves cess starts with the tea picking. Each is as follows: roll lightly, press lightly, are traditionally spread out about 3.3 bud is usually picked with three or press more firmly, press lightly, roll cm deep on bamboo drying frames, four leaves—the tea leaves are picked lightly, then separate the leaves after and should preferably be heated us- during the day and processed at night. rolling. First-grade and second-grade ing pinewood. The temperature of the For the kill-green step (firing to halt tea leaves are normally rolled for 40 flame needs to be around 80–90°C and oxidization), the temperature of the minutes, while third-grade leaves and the leaves are turned over every 5–6 wok is 160°C and the leaves are cooked below are rolled for 45–50 minutes. minutes. Once the leaves are 60–70% in batches of around 2–2.5 kilograms; After rolling comes the process of dry they are taken off the heat and with a kill-green machine it’s around heaping, where the semi-processed tea spread out to cool for half an hour. 7.5 kg each time. Once in the pan the leaves are piled into baskets or onto Then they are fired again at a tempera- leaves are first fired while covered, then bamboo mats to ferment. This process ture of 50–60°C in piles around 6.6 stirred and tossed, then a combination is key in determining the color, aroma, cm deep for 2–3 hours, until the tea of the two—young, tender leaves are and flavor of Liu Bao. The damp tea stalks snap when bent. tossed for longer, while older leaves leaves are piled 3–5 centimeters deep The second part of the Liu Bao tea are covered for longer. The kill-green with about 1.5 kg of tea per basket, manufacturing process is refining the process usually lasts 5–6 minutes, un- and are left to ferment for at least 15 tea. These days, this begins with cold til the leaves and buds are soft and the hours. The heaping process doesn’t re- fermentation: moisture is added to stalks bend but don’t break, and the quire very high heat—the heat source the tea leaves until their water content tea leaves turn the appropriate darkish need only be around 60°C, and the tea reaches 12%; then the leaves are fer- green color. After the leaves are spread leaves should be heated until they’re mented in heaps for 7–10 days to sup- out to cool they are rolled, either by around 50–60% dry before heaping. plement the fermentation that occurred hand or by machine (more often by The temperature of the tea piles them- in the early processing. When the machine these days). When rolling by selves needs to stay around 40°C—if it moisture content of the leaves has been hand one can roll 1–1.5 kg at a time; rises above 50°C the leaves will burn, reduced to an average of around 10%,

22 Liu Bao Tea

they are steamed for half an hour, until six months of aging, the liquor of the with the addition of “Golden Flow- they are completely soft and the wa- mature tea develops a deeper red color, ers,” the spores of a highly-prized type ter content has increased to 15–16%. a cool, refreshing mouthfeel, and that of fungus that grows on the tea. The After this, the traditional method classic aged Liu Bao flavor. These qual- liquor is also a deep red; the flavor is involves storing the tea in heaps for ities gave rise to the common epithet mellow and refreshing with a pure aro- 20–30 days, so that the moisture and used to describe Liu Bao tea: “red, rich, ma and a unique betel nut fragrance. heat can act on the tea leaves and fur- mellow, and aged.” Liu Bao tea can be stored for a long ther alter their chemical structure. The time—the more mature, the better. antioxidant action of the tea polyphe- These days, two different kinds of nols causes an increase in compounds Distinct Characteristics refined Liu Bao tea are available on such as theaflavins and thearubigens, the market: those made using the tra- enriching the color, flavor, and aroma The defining features of Liu Bao are ditional manufacturing process, and of the tea until it takes on the unique similar for both the maocha (“raw” or those made using modern methods. character of Liu Bao. semi-processed tea leaves) and refined Both kinds are essentially the same, The last step in the process is an Liu Bao, with a couple of differenc- though with some subtle differences. essential one: aging. Once the leaves es. Liu Bao maocha leaves are a glossy The leaves of traditional hand-made have been steamed for the second time, blackish-brown, with thick, heavy Liu Bao tend to be a little thicker and they are cooled down, and the remain- leaves. The liquor is a deep red with weightier. The liquor is a slightly light- ing moisture is allowed to evaporate. a mellow aroma and a rich, refreshing er red compared to machine-processed The finished Liu Bao tea is packed into flavor; the used leaves are a reddish Liu Bao, a brownish-red that recalls baskets and piled up in cool, damp brown. Refined Liu Bao tea leaves have the color of Chinese dates. By contrast, earthen storehouses to age. After about a similar dark, lustrous appearance, it has a stronger flavor, and when ma-

23/ Modern Liu Bao Tea Traditional processing of Liu Bao tea always in- Also known as Eurotium cristatum, most of the cluded aging before the baskets even left the facto- golden bunches are actually spores. Chinese people ries. Some factories used air raid tunnels to age the have always determined the quality of many teas tea, alternating between the more humid tunnels by how much “Golden Flowers (Jin Hua)” they and drier warehouses. Nowadays, some factories have. This is especially true of the brick teas of Hu- are returning to the traditional methods and aging nan, where such mold is most desirable. Tradition- their teas once again in earthen warehouses, like ally, Liu Bao tea was not characterized in this way, the one shown here, to make sure the tea is ripe though it is sometimes found with this kind of mold enough before it reaches the consumer. on it, as shown here.

tured for a long time, becomes genuine as well as relieving heat in the summer When drunk regularly over a long aged Liu Bao. and dispelling excess moisture. It is period, Liu Bao can have benefits for Liu Bao made using modern meth- good for the eyesight, aids digestion, fitness and weight loss, as well as main- ods has leaves that are fine, tightly and energizes and clears the mind. It taining a restful mind and a healthy rolled, and evenly shaped. The liquor can be drunk after a meal to aid diges- digestive system. is a deep red, while the flavor and aro- tion, or on an empty stomach to settle ma are not as strong as those of tradi- the digestive system. After drinking tionally hand-made tea. The use of ma- Liu Bao you’ll notice a sudden feeling Brewing Methods chinery in modern Liu Bao processing of comfort and ease in both mind and cuts down on aging time and allows body. Liu Bao is perfect for drinking When brewing Liu Bao tea, the the tea to be produced more efficiently. when it’s hot and humid—it provides requirements for the water are a bit relief from hot summer weather and more particular than usual: in order to brings a welcome sense of refreshment. allow the nutrients in the tea to fully Health Benefits Liu Bao contains many essential dissolve, it must be brewed with prop- amino acids, vitamins, and trace el- erly boiling water. It’s important to use In Traditional Chinese Medicine, ements. In addition to this, scientific very hot water to “rinse” the leaves, as Liu Bao is considered a “cooling” and studies and the observations of Liu Bao it cleanses the tea leaves and “awakens” “warming” tea. In addition to the enthusiasts both attest that this tea is the tea. If the temperature of the water general health benefits that it shares more effective at breaking down fats is less than 100°C, it’s difficult to fully with other teas, Liu Bao also has some that other types of tea, and can help achieve the rich, refreshing flavor that unique properties. It can alleviate ex- lower levels of fat compounds, cho- Liu Bao should have. It’s also import- cess internal heat and ease breathing, lesterol, and triglycerides in the body. ant to warm up your tea implements

24 Liu Bao Tea before brewing and serving, as this also has a monopoly on the market with helps to awaken the active properties its “Duo Te Li” brand. Other brands of the tea that have long lain dormant include The Yintai Liu Bao Tea Co., within the leaves. Ltd.’s “Cang Shun” brand, the Cangwu Liu Bao Tea Co., Ltd.’s “Cang Song” brand. There are also some tea brands Main Varieties that are named after the company that produces them, for example the Wu- Liu Bao tea plants are bushy with zhou Guding Liu Bao Tea Factory’s 迷 densely-growing branches. The tea can “Guding” brand, the Wuzhou City be divided into four categories accord- Gui Jinhua Liu Bao Tea Co., Ltd.’s ing to the color of the tea buds. Ac- “Gui Jinhua” and “He Shou” brands, cording to an informal survey, about and the Wuzhou Qian Nian Liu Bao 60% of Liu Bao is made from green Tea Co., Ltd.’s “Qian Nian (Thousand buds, around 20% from purple buds, Years)” brand. 霧 5% from large, light-colored leaves, Aside from the tea factories men- and 15% from fragmented leaves. The tioned above, some of the other main tea made from green buds is considered Liu Bao tea producers in Wuzhou are superior, as well as being produced in the Wuzhou City Suiyuan Liu Bao Tea the greatest quantity. Factory, the Wuzhou City Gushu Liu The tea plants naturally grow to Bao Tea Factory, the Cangwu County be around 2 meters high and 80 cm Huaqiang Liu Bao Black Tea Refining 中 wide, with densely growing branches Factory, The Wuzhou City Xiaoya Liu and about 3.6 cm between joints on Bao Tea Factory, the Wuzhou City each twig. The leaves are oval-shaped, Yuanshan Liu Bao Tea Co., Ltd., the about 8.3 cm long and 3.6 cm wide, Wuzhou City Yi Hu Chun Liu Bao Tea and grow on an upwards diagonal. The Factory, the Wuzhou City Liu Bao Vil- surface of the leaves is smooth and flat lage Heishi Mountain Tea Factory, the 覺 or slightly bulging, and the edges are Wuzhou Liu Bao Mountain Tea Co., serrated. Ltd., the Guangzi Liu Bao Village Tea The tips of the new shoots are usual- Co., Ltd., and the Tengxian Fuding ly a soft green, with a few purple ones. Tea Company. The shoots grow closely together and This impressive array of companies don’t have much fuzz, and tend to stay helps to paint a picture of today’s flour- 道 fairly soft and tender. Liu Bao is made ishing Liu Bao market and the impor- from early-sprouting tea plants—the tance of this iconic tea to the Wuzhou buds begin to appear in the middle area. As suggested by its namesake, of March, and are harvested in early Liu Bao Village, this is a tea that is April. By the middle third of Octo- intrinsically connected to the land it ber the trees are no longer growing came from, and the tea we drink today 路 sprouts, and the remaining leaves are has been shaped by Wuzhou’s unique sparse and of lesser quality. They turn ecological environment, as well as a darker green with strongly serrated the changing practices of Liu Bao tea edges and blunt tips, and begin to curl makers over the centuries. It really has in slightly. earned its status as a prized “antique.”

Major Manufacturers & Brands of Liu Bao On a foggy, misty morn- Nowadays there are many brands of ing, one of the authors, Mr. Wuzhou Liu Bao tea. Some of the most Peng (who also wrote the well-known brands in mainland , most thorough book on Liu in order of influence, are the Wuzhou Bao tea in Chinese, called Tea Factory’s “Three Cranes” brand, simply “Liu Bao”) shows the Wuzhou Tea Import and Export us different kinds of plants Corporation’s “Zhong Cha” and “Duo and leaves used to make Liu Te Li,” and the Wuzhou Maosheng Tea Bao, including purple bud Ind. Co., Ltd.’s “Maosheng” brand. In and zhuye. This garden is terms of overseas exports, the Wuzhou also organic, which is in- Zhong Cha Tea Co., Ltd. more or less spiring.

25/ Modern Liu Bao Tea