Liu Bao Liu Bao Black Tea Processing, History, Terroir & Lore GL BAL TEA HUT Tea & Tao Magazine Contentsissue 59 / December 2016 松下 Beneath the Pines

Global 國際茶亭 Tea Hut Tea & Tao Magazine December 2016

Beneath the Pines Wild, Old-growth & Aged Liu Bao Liu Bao Black Tea Processing, History, Terroir & Lore GL BAL TEA HUT Tea & Tao Magazine ContentsIssue 59 / December 2016 松下 Beneath the Pines

Liu Bao is a rich and mysterious genre of tea. More and more tea lovers are realizing how fine a cup of Liu Bao is. In what has Love is become a December tradition, we return to the genre, exploring further and deeper than changing the world ever. And, of course, we have a very unique and rare Liu Bao to drink together! bowl by bowl 特稿文章 New Expansion Packs! Features 35 13 Intro to Liu Bao Tea By Wu Ping 17 Origins of Liu Bao 41 21 Modern Liu Bao Tea 29 In Search of Liu Bao By Su Yangchun 35 Vintage Liu Bao 39 Shou Puerh & Liu Bao By Shen Su 29 43 Tracing the History of Liu Bao By He Zhiqiang 45 One Hundred Baskets By Lou Yingyin Traditions傳統文章

03 Tea of the Month “Beneath the Pines,” c. 2000 Liu Bao Black Tea, Liu Bao, Guangxi, China 27 Gongfu Tea Tips 03 Space or Fullness in the Pot

49 Voices From the Hut © 2016 by Global Tea Hut Setting Sun Tea Hut by Ben Youngbaer 松 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be repro- 53 TeaWayfarer 下 duced, stored in a retrieval system or trans- Kevin Hartwell, Canada mitted in any form or by any means, electron- ic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without prior written permission from the copyright owner. n DecemberFrom the weather starts to turn coolthe in Tai- This month weEditor return to one of our favorite teas: Liu wan, which means we begin our hot spring season. Bao. This time, we’re going to dive deeper into the topic, Every Friday, from December to February, the whole exploring more of the production, history and lore. Some- Center spends the morning at the hot springs, soak- times, people may feel that a magazine like this could run Iing and drinking tea. We usually prefer a shou tea blended out of topics, being published every month, year after year. with some dian hong. (If you haven’t yet tried that, you But that way of thinking underestimates just how vast the definitely should. It takes some time to get the amounts tea world is—lifetimes of travel! What’s more, one can dive and kinds of tea right, but when you find a good match deeper into the same genre or topic, exploring deeper waters of a certain shou and dian hong, and the right ratios, it is each time (as those of you who have been around in the Hut a magical treat on a cold day!) At the Center, the colder longer will know.) We hope that this issue will not just be a weather means we start drinking more shou and aged sheng review of Liu Bao, but rather will start with a review of the puerh, as well as black teas (often boiled), like Liu Bao. The genre and then slowly descend into deeper, darker brews winter is always tea-centric for everyone around the world, than we ever have before, uncovering some aspects of Liu and it often seems to feel like more people are drinking tea Bao that have never been discussed in English. This is, in with you. fact, one of the more important goals of Global Tea Hut: Of course, December also means the holiday season is to offer a deeper, richer and more holistic coverage of tea, upon us, which we know can be stressful for a lot of people. from production to history, folklore and science to spirit But if you approach this time with the right attitude, it can and ceremony. And to this end, check out the new Expan- also be a highlight of the year. As with most things, orien- sion Packs we’re introducing on pp. 41-2! tation is everything! Here at the Center, we try to make the Liu Bao is an amazing tea, highlighting some of the best holidays an extra-special time of year. We put all our heart sessions of my entire life. Along with all the wonderful ar- into decorating and making or purchasing heartfelt gifts. ticles exploring new facets of this rich tea, we also have an There is a magic when you allow the gift-giving space and amazing example to drink together this month—the best time to honor the gift itself, as well as the one who gave it. Liu Bao we’ve ever shared. Have an amazing holiday sea- We usually make a shou puerh holiday blend to accompa- son! We look forward to sharing another wonderful year of ny our gift-opening, mixing in ginger, cardamom, cloves, Global Tea Hut with you all, and we’re so excited for all the cinnamon and some kind of natural sweetener. Then, in improvements to come. Stay tea-tuned. the evening, everyone helps prepare a wonderful vegetarian This month we’d also like to introduce you to our new feast and we share our gratitude for the past year. You are translator, Emily Foate, who, along with Michelle Huang, all undoubtedly in our hearts at this time of your. My heart has been essential in making these magazines extra rich. swells with gratitude for each and every one of you. May Emily and Michelle are tremendous assets, and after explor- each of you be warm and full of bright tea this holiday sea- ing many translation options, we can’t express how fortu- son, surrounded by love and loved ones. May your gratitude nate we all are to have them on board. Raise your bowls to also swell as you honor your beautiful tea-filled year on this them each month as you read our Chinese articles! Earth! This coming year is going to be a big one for Global Tea Hut. We can all feel the trembling currents of a rising wave of energy that will take this experience to the next level. We now have a translation budget, as you can see, so almost every issue will come with translations of Chinese Wu De authors from now on. This will add perspective and depth to the content, expanding our tea education to new arenas. We will also release an app in this year that will connect all of you in amazing ways. Finally, we hope that as member- ship continues to grow, this will be the year where we start Further Reading the processing of making our Center permanent: purchasing more land and starting the building process. The world needs a free tea center and school, with tons of different tea This month, we hope to expand this already in-depth courses taught by different amazing tea teachers, without issue to make it an even more comprehensive publi- any financial motivations involved and devoted to promot- cation on Liu Bao. We translated many more articles than we could possibly print, so this will be one of the ing a spirit of tea that is shared freely between those who richest Further Readings ever! respect the Earth and each other. And we’re going to build it, you and I—together! *Further Readings are all posted on our blog each month.

2 of the

nce again, we follow our place in the West, that they broke out healers demonstrate a deep connection holiday tradition of return- a celebratory fifty-year-old Liu Bao tea to the fermentation process, adapting 茶 ing to Liu Bao tea, which is and congratulated us again and again, their processing and preparation of the Oa very underappreciated and absolutely cup after cup! And their gratitude was leaf accordingly, long before there was fantastic genre of tea. In fact, it is one definitely sincere, as is our respect for even a concept of a microscopic world. of our favorite kinds of tea, and since black tea producers. They often adapted their processing it is great in the winter and summer Liu Bao is a black, black tea pro- to suit the microbes before they could (cooling and warming), it brings a bit duced in Cangwu, Guangxi. The name have had a notion of such influenc- of summer to our winter (or vice versa “Liu Bao” literally translates to “Six es, in other words—demonstrating a if you are in the southern parts of the Castles,” which may refer to forts that deeper underlying connection to the world). This month’s tea is also special existed in the area at some time in the Nature of the leaves they shared their because, like last year’s, it was donated distant past. The local mountains are lives with. by our tea brother Henry Yiow, which full of canyons, streams and waterfalls Liu Bao tea is processed similarly to means it connects all of you to our that are misty year-round. The loose, shou puerh. In fact, when puerh man- lineage of gongfu tea. Henry is one of fertile soil, humidity and proper sun- ufacturers were developing the process Master Lin’s oldest and brightest stu- shine make the region excellent for of artificial fermentation used to create dents. He is generous and kind, and growing tea. The tea trees here are nei- shou puerh in the 1960s and early 70s provided this wonderful tea with an ther big- nor small-leaf varietals, which (officially licensed production began open heart. Through it, may you find we have discussed extensively in past is- in 1973) they studied Liu Bao produc- the sentiment of heritage it expresses sues. To briefly summarize: the original tion, amongst other kinds of black tea. from us, and may it be a newfound tea trees are all what has become known Ultimately, shou puerh production love at first sip, promising many more as Camellia sinensis var. assamica. They methodology is based on such teas and amazing cups of Liu Bao in the future! can grow bigger leaves, and general- owes its existence to them. However, Before we start discussing Liu Bao, ly have a single trunk with roots that the exchange actually goes the other we must once again drive home the grow more downward. As tea moved way as well, since Liu Bao production difference between red tea and black northward, naturally or carried by peo- was also influenced by shou produc- tea. What is called “black tea” in the ple, it evolved into a small-leaf varietal, tion in the 1980s, resulting in deeper, West is actually red tea (hong cha). known as Camellia sinensis var. sinensis. wetter and longer piling for Liu Bao Red tea is oxidized completely during These trees can’t grow leaves as large, (as for shou). The main differences in production, whereas black tea is char- are more bush-like, with many trunks production result from the unique mi- acterized by post-production artificial and roots that grow outwards. Liu Bao croclimates of both locations, as well fermentation. Its liquor is actually red. is a bigger leaf tea, but not as big as as the differences in the varietals. The We have covered this to some extent, puerh. Neither is it as small as small- raw material is very different from but it is important to the producers leaf tea—you could say that Liu Bao is shou puerh to Liu Bao (large leaf ver- of Liu Bao. This September, we met “medium leaf,” if you’re willing to have sus medium leaf) and the microcli- with two farmers from Liu Bao, in a new category; otherwise, it’s big leaf. mate is also very different (Yunnan is Guangxi, and they were so happy with Like puerh, the best-quality Liu Bao wetter and richer in all flora and fau- our efforts to honor and respect true tea is made from older tea trees. It is na). This means they need to be “black tea,” returning it to its proper amazing that farmers and indigenous piled in very different ways.

3 Beneath the Pines

Liu Bao, Guangxi, China Check out the Tea of the Month video to c. 2000 Liu Bao Black Tea learn more!

Han Chinese www.globalteahut.org/videos ~500 Meters Tea of the Month Processing bit of water and then hang them up to It was then dried in big bamboo bas- dry from the rafters above their oven kets over pinewood fires, which is one There are some variations in Liu in the kitchen. The pinewood fires of the defining characteristics of Liu Bao production, as is the case with they cooked with would give the tea Bao processing in all eras. After that, all tea, so formulas can be a bit mis- a smokey flavor. They would then boil the tea was once again steamed in or- leading, as they ignore the adaptations this tea or serve it in bowls. Such tea der to compress it into the large bas- farmers make to suit the weather—dif- is rare, but can still be found in some kets, as we will discuss in a bit. ferent amounts of rainfall lead to dif- houses even today. ferent schedules and moisture content in the leaves, for example. Also, dif- Vintage Liu Bao ferent factories/farmers have different Antique Era Liu Bao After 1958, the farmers stopped recipes, even internally, at different In the early days, before 1958, Liu using steam to de-enzyme the tea (sa times or for variety. Bao tea was steamed three times— qing) and started firing it in woks like Liu Bao was traditionally harvest- once for de-enzyming (sa qing), then other tea. Like puerh, Liu Bao is given ed in bud-sets of one bud and two for piling and finally for compression. a lower-temperature and shorter-dura- leaves, though in modern times more At that time, they didn’t wither (oxi- tion de-enzyming so that the heat-re- leaves are sometimes picked to increase dize) the tea. It was picked and directly sistant spores can survive into the fer- yield—a problematic trend in many sent to the “kill green (sa qing)” stage, mentation phase. They also stopped tea-growing areas. There have been which arrests oxidation and de-en- using steam to pile/ferment the tea. In- four general processing methods of Liu zymes the tea, making it less bitter. stead, they began spraying the tea with Bao tea throughout history. Though In those days, the sa qing was done by water and piling it, in the way that some scholars debate the dates and steaming the tea as opposed to wok-fir- shou puerh is fermented. Consequent- some of the details, we will present ing like most teas. Then it was left ly, Liu Bao went from being processed them as Master Lin taught us. overnight to be finished the next day. with three stages of steaming to having Master Lin thinks that leaving the tea just one: the final steam for compres- 禪 overnight is maybe how farmers dis- sion. In the vintage era, Liu Bao was: Lao Cha Po (Grandma Tea) covered piling, and the improvement picked, fired/de-enzymed, left over- Since very ancient times, people it makes on this kind of tea. The next night, rolled, sprayed and piled, dried in Guangxi have made very simple day, they would roll the tea and steam over pinewood fire, steamed and com- tea to drink. Long before tea looked it once more for piling. In some cases, pressed. (Sometimes there were two like it does today, the villagers would cultures from previous batches were pilings, a “cold” and “hot” one, which 者 cook the leaves in a wok with a tiny introduced to promote fermentation. will be discussed later in the issue.) 初 A Beginner’s Mind in Tea t the Center, we practice avoid- humbleness, open-mindedness and a tea brewing, spirit or cultivation. A ing the use of the word “repeat.” genuine desire to learn. Every time Repeating information helps us to Sometimes, it is helpful to adjust the we go to places rich in tea wisdom, understand and remember. We all 心 way one uses language, as it then like Wuyi in Fujian, for example, we use it as a technique in our studies. helps affirm or change habit patterns, are left with the feeling that what we In these issues, we are committed to but only if we don’t get caught up in don’t know is infinitely more than “renewing” rather than “repeating.” the semantics and focus instead on what we do—even after decades. And When we do reprint information, we the spirit of what we are trying to cul- we wouldn’t be able to learn so much always update, change and grow the tivate. In this instance, not using the each time if we approached the place, material to add depth and detail so word “repeat” is about maintaining or the teachers there with an attitude that you can review the basic mate- the “beginner’s mind” of Zen, which of “knowing.” If you cultivate this at- rial and also travel a bit deeper each is a translation of the Sanskrit word titude, you will go far in tea, which time, growing along with us—in for wisdom (prajna). Tea also is a is, ultimately, a path of receiving, of understanding and tea wisdom both! path of studentship. In Zen (and Cha humility and acceptance—a path of In this issue, we will delve deeply Dao—they are “one flavor,” after all), honoring even the simplest of lessons. into the history of Liu Bao from we say that only the dead and gone In fact, we learn through repeti- many perspectives, and hopefully can be called “masters.” As long as we tion. Advanced techniques are basic by revolving around the same topics live, we are students of Zen (and tea). techniques mastered. We can always from different angles we’ll all evolve In Cha Dao, we practice passivity, refine our understanding of tea, our understanding of Liu Bao tea!

5/ Beneath the Pines (Song Xia, 松下) 禪

The trees are between the large- 者 leaf varietals of Yunnan and small- leaf varietals of northern tea regions.

Aged to Modern Liu Bao

初 In the 1980s there was another The drying takes a few months, after menting the tea. After some period in slight shift in Liu Bao production that which the tea is often aged. the tunnels, the tea was then transport- was influenced by the prominence of In previous times, Liu Bao was only ed to wooden storage warehouses that shou puerh: the piling process was ex- sold in large baskets weighing 40 to 50 had wet and dry rooms. They would be tended longer and the piles themselves kilograms. These large bundles were alternated between a drier space right formed deeper to increase fermenta- sometimes wrapped in huge bags for after coming out of the moist tunnels 心 tion. This often gives the Liu Bao from transportation, called “gunnies (Bao and then to a wetter room. Drier spac- this era a camphor flavor, as well as a Lan 宝篮)” by Malaysian Chinese es were often higher up, since humidi- wetter profile. who spoke fluent English. In more ty can differ a lot between the floor and In the last ten to fifteen years, facto- recent times, Liu Bao has often been the ceiling. This oscillation from wet to ries have also started producing green, re-packaged after aging into smaller dry would continue until the masters sheng Liu Bao to rival sheng puerh. amounts. Modern Liu Bao is also pro- felt the tea was fermented enough. This tea is often harsh and strange, and duced in one-kilogram baskets, into As we mentioned above, a lot of Liu it is difficult to know how it will age, other amounts in boxes, bags, or even Bao made these days is green and raw/ if at all. compressed into other shapes to hitch sheng, so it doesn’t have as much pil- a ride on the bandwagon of puerh, as ing or aging in the tunnels/warehous- its neighbor has soared to great popu- es. And even the tea that is aged is only After fermentation (piling) and larity and wealth. done so for a very short time compared sorting, the leaves are steamed to When Liu Bao wasn’t as famous, to the years of warehousing that was re-moisten them and then pressed the baskets were aged for one to three done in the past eras. Our Tea of the into large bamboo baskets. The tea is years before even being sent to market. Month has been aged for about sixteen packed down into these wicker bas- After the Great War, they were first put years, though. (It did go through pil- kets, pressed in tightly around the edg- in air raid tunnels that are common in ing, but it was dry, wihout any water es and more loosely in the middle, to the area. These cool and moist wind sprayed on to the pile to help speed up facilitate the next phase of air-drying. tunnels were perfect for aging/fer- fermentation.)

6 Tea of the Month Vintages of Liu Bao

Traditionally, Liu Bao tea was exported to Cantonese tea drinkers in Malaysia and Hong Kong. In Malaysia, it was often served to tin/pewter miners during their breaks. In mainstream Chinese culture in Malaysia, senior citizens refer to it simply as “big leaf (da ye).” It always had a reputation for being cheaper tea, often boiled, dried and re-boiled in restaurants. A lot of famous old Liu Bao teas have survived in Malaysia. Some of the most famous, most coveted vintages of Liu Bao tea are:

茶 1950s “Joy to the World,” Pu Tian Gong Qing (普天共庆), which was a higher grade of Liu Bao reserved for the managers and owners of the mines.

茶 1970s Shuang Xing Hao Yin (双星号印 / SSHC Penang).

茶 Liu Bao in gunnies, like N152, LLLL367, NL229, etc.

茶 Some of the best/most famous vintages of Liu Bao teas are those produced by the Guangxi Wuzhou Tea Factory (广西梧州茶厂). They produced the famous “VIVE” in the 1980s (with two grades) and a famous 1990s Liu Bao as well.

Master Lin ranks the five best Liu or warming when needed, which is “Golden Glowers (Jin Hua)” they have. Bao teas in this order: 1930s Pu Tian very unique, and also refreshing and This is especially true of the brick teas Gong Qing, 1950s Zhong Cha, 1960s good for dispelling dampness as well as of Hunan, where such mold is most LLLL367 (which came from Hong detoxification. desirable. In fact, Hunanese brick tea is Kong and has four “L’s” as grades intentionally fermented in conditions from one to four. The “L” represents favorable to this mold, and any brick “orchid”—“lan” in Chinese—because Molds & Microbes without it is considered lower quali- this tea is Orchid brand, and “four or- ty. Traditionally, Liu Bao tea was not chids” was their highest grade), 1950s Some of the magic of post-produc- characterized in this way, though it is Da Xing Hang and finally 1950s Fu tion fermentation isn’t in the tea leaves. sometimes found with this mold on it. Hua. Scientifically, little is known about For some reason, this particular mold It used to be that Liu Bao was a many of the molds and bacteria that very rarely grows on puerh (aged sheng cheap alternative to aged puerh, often arise naturally in fermented teas like or shou), though puerh has many oth- providing the same warming, deep and puerh, Liu Bao and other black teas. er kinds of molds and fungi. fragrant brews that settle the soul and Most of these teas grow in humid areas, Also known as Eurotium cristatum, aid in digestion. However, nowadays so molds, fungi and unique bacteria most of the golden bunches are actu- the more famous vintages of Liu Bao are present in and around the trees. As ally spores. In recent times, black tea are also expensive. Aged Liu Bao is said the tea is fermented, each cake, brick has started to grow in popularity and to offer a dark red cup with mellow, or batch of loose tea will be different. some Liu Bao and Liu An teas are also thick liquor that tastes of betel nut. It Even sheng puerh, aged naturally over fermented under conditions that pro- is often regarded as the highest quality time, is susceptible to mold and not all mote Golden Flowers. when covered with the spores of a cer- of it is bad for us. There have been medical studies in tain yellow mold, which you will read When it comes to black tea, Chi- China suggesting that Eurotium cri- about later on in this issue. In Tradi- nese people have always determined statum can be effective in treating ditional Chinese Medicine, it is cooling the quality of many teas by how many abetes, promoting a faster metabolism

7/ Beneath the Pines (Song Xia, 松下) 松 Pine Drying he distinguishing characteristic can taste the pine-smoky flavors in T of Liu Bao processing is the pine this month’s tea and any other Liu drying. Since pinewood was tradi- Bao you come across. This will be 木 tionally used to dry Liu Bao tea, as helpful in identifying aged Liu Bao opposed to charcoal, as for oolong, or amongst other fermented teas. the sun, as for puerh, it often tastes Last September, when we were of pine smoke. This one of the charac- in Malaysia visiting Master Lin, teristics that helps distinguish it from an old friend named Alex came by 乾 other black teas and aged sheng or with some very old tea his father young/old shou puerh. The pinewood had left him. He wasn’t sure if it was is burned for some time (essentially to aged puerh or Liu Bao, and there- coals) and then tea is placed over the fore wanted to brew some for Master heat to dry. However, no matter how Lin so he could tell him. We drank 燥 much the fire has died down, there that tea and determined that it was, will always be some smoke, since pine in fact, puerh because it lacked the is such a resinous wood. This means pinewood flavors of a Liu Bao. Mas- that there is also an odor, rich and ter Lin then rooted around in his strong or soft and mild, depending on bag and pulled out a very old Liu how skillfully the fire was applied and Bao. Brewed side-by-side, the pine- then controlled to dry the tea. (A soft- wood flavors and aromas were very er, milder heat is ideal.) distinct from the puerh. The puerh Nowadays, other methods are liqour was also thicker, with a con- used to dry Liu Bao, including elec- sistency like milk. It was amazing to tric machinery that works like an be able to taste the pine smoke even oven. There are still some producers after so many decades in storage, making Liu Bao in traditional ways, suggesting that maybe farmers used but usually only when they are com- to smoke it even more than they do missioned to do so. Try to see if you these days.

and as a digestive aid, and even poten- may or may not appreciate. Tradition- their Qi, and in the case of Golden tially assisting in the treatment of can- ally, almost all aged puerh was musty, Flowers makes them sweeter, we ar- cer patients. Though Golden Flowers having been stored in Southeast Asia. en’t doctors and wouldn’t recommend have been used medicinally in China, The tea wasn’t as valuable as it is today, using this tea to treat any illness. You Mongolia and Tibet for centuries— and was often left to age naturally, with need to take responsibility for your where most brick black tea was export- little human intervention. As puerh has own health, consulting physicians, ed to—further research is still needed. increased in value, however, tea lovers Western or Chinese. Beyond the more scientific ap- are more concerned with how their Putting aside disclaimers about proach to health, we would also like to tea will age, putting more effort into how we won’t be responsible for your offer a different approach that focus- controlling the storage environment. health, we drink such tea a lot and es on trusting our bodies, Nature and In the future, we will be able to share it is great. As we mentioned above, life, looking to our own connection to more experiments and results as tea is there are no known cases of mycotox- our selves and plant medicines instead aged in new environments around the ins released from Golden Flowers—to of waiting for a lab report to tell us world, some conducive to better aging the contrary, there are several studies, what is going on inside of us. Perhaps and some not so nice. both Western and Chinese promoting the combination of these approach- Although many people think of their medicinal benefits. Also, there is es results in more holistic health and mold as bad for us, it isn’t inherently research which demonstrates that the healing. so. Our bodies are full of microorgan- molds and bacteria in most teas are There is some debate about the isms. We need them to survive. There mitigated by the temperature of water molds that develop in fermented teas are bacteria all around and throughout used in tea preparation, especially dark like puerh and black tea. There aren’t our bodies, and by number they ac- teas like Liu Bao and puerh, which are any known cases of mycotoxins in count for the majority of cells in us. better when prepared with water that these teas, but the possibility is there. While we find that the presence of cer- has reached a full boil. (The hotter Some white spores on puerh tea will tain white and yellow molds on aged water helps penetrate the tough, fer- give it a musty flavor, which people sheng and other black teas enhances mented leaves.)

8 Tea of the Month

There is a magic in the relationship Both teas were commissioned by Hen- over time. Much of the Liu Bao from between the millions of microorgan- ry himself and processed traditionally, the early days was also artificially fer- isms in fermented teas and our bod- in much the same way as Liu Bao was mented to a lesser degree since it also ies. This is a big part of what makes made back in the day, with a lighter, went through years of natural fermen- puerh and aged teas, like this month’s more shallow piling like the tea made tation before it was even sold. Also, Liu Bao, special. We have talked here a between 1958 and the 1980s. This one Beneath the Pines was not compressed lot about the scientific aspects of these comes from the Wuzhou factory. like most Liu Bao; the baskets were molds, but we should also recognize There are, however, a couple of rea- just filled with the leaves and passed on that it is hard to say how much of the sons that Beneath the Pines is a better that way. This probably also had to do Qi in any aged tea is from the leaves tea than Old Grove. First of all, this tea with the size/kind of leaves. These two and how much from the microorgan- is older by maybe ten years. Old Grove factors make Beneath the Pines more isms. Without humidity, puerh and was from 2008. We aren’t sure exactly mild, soft, feminine and graceful than black teas don’t ferment. The changes when this year’s tea was produced, but almost all Liu Bao teas we have ever they go through over time are related it comes from some time around the tried. Ordinarily, these greener Liu to the presence of bacteria, itself the turn of the millennium—give or take Bao teas that broke with the tradition defining characteristic of fermenta- a year. The added age has increased of heavier piling were made because it tion—in anything from cheese and the depth, vibrancy and wisdom this was cheaper (or to be like puerh), and yogurt to kombucha. tea has to offer. The second reason this are therefore not usually nice. This The mold adds a deepening to the tea is a step up from last year is that it month’s tea is an exception. We wanted Qi, making it more Yin, while sweet- was produced using better raw mate- to send a tea that represented modern ening the tea, bringing a longer-lasting rial, from older, wild trees, which was trends while still being great to drink! huigan. Microorganisms—molds and more available at that earlier time and Beneath the Pines is named after bacteria—are part of what makes tea for a better price. And Old Grove was Wu De’s favorite Chinese poem, and and the world alive. already one of the best modern-era Liu captures the essence of that poem We have Liu Bao teas from all dif- Bao teas we have ever tried (let’s not wonderfully. It tastes of a pine forest, ferent ages, some of which are fifty or push it down too hard, after all, espe- and has a wandering uplifting Qi that sixty years old, some from the 1980s, cially when so many of us had such makes you feel as though you are lost 90s and early 00s. Very few of them amazing sessions with that beautiful in such a place, with only the wind and have Golden Flowers, so count your- tea!) Highlighting these improvements the pine-fragrance to guide you. This self lucky if you find one! This month’s is meant to help us grow and learn to- month’s tea is soft and graceful, like a tea has little to no Golden Flowers, as gether—about quality tea in different very pleasant autumn or early winter Malaysia is not really humid enough to genres and also about why a particular forest walk. It is a wonderful tea for the encourage them. Still, learning about tea is finer. holiday season, as it refreshes and in- them is a part of understanding black This month’s tea is also different spires, while remaining warm-hearted teas like Liu Bao. from other Liu Bao in some other and friendly. And during the potential ways that are worth discussing. Since stresses of the holiday season, we could Beneath the Pines was piled/fermented all use some of that energy! May we all Tea of the Month for a shorter time, it is more raw (sheng) stay grounded in the spirit of love, light than most Liu Bao teas. This may have and connection that informs the holi- Beneath the Pines was donated by happened because of the large, wild days, helping to be a supporting force Henry on our trip to Malaysia this leaves and/or because of the rising of positivity amongst our colleagues, year. He said that we could travel deep- popularity of puerh at the time. It was loved ones and even those whose paths er and further this year, sharing a better also fermented without spraying water we cross more gently each day. This Liu Bao than our last one (Old Grove), on the piles (dry piling). This means tea can really help make this a better which was one of the most talked that Beneath the Pines is more light- holiday season. Just breathe deeply and about and beloved Global Tea Hut ly fermented than most Liu Bao teas remember what it was like standing teas of 2015. So you’re in for a treat! and therefore has more room to grow Beneath the Pines!

Seaching for the Hermit in Vain 尋隱者不遇 I asked the boy beneath the pines. 雲只言松 He said, “The master’s gone alone 深在師下 Herb-picking somewhere on the mount, 不此採問 Cloud-hidden, whereabouts unknown.” 知山藥童處中去子 Chia Tao (777-841 C. E.) Translated by Lin Yutang -賈島

9/ Beneath the Pines (Song Xia, 松下)

Tea of the Month

Beneath the Pines Like so many of you, we also sit down with friends to share the Tea of the Month. And though we drank Beneath the Pines at a different time than you, we are reminded once again of the interconnectedness we share within this global tea community. Just as we set out altar cups in acknowledgment of our tea brothers and sisters the world over, we also drank this tea with all of you in mind, knowing that somewhere under this global thatched roof, you’ll likely be doing the same! And just as you might discuss your experiences drinking this tea with your friends, we did the same:

茶 We meet Beneath the Pines, Your Heart in My Heart. Together we listen to the wind rustling through trees, the freshly fallen leaves dancing upon a soft, wet earth. We enter into the stillness of sunlight, clarity shining its warm rays upon us. Long after the last bowl is dried, the forest continues to sing! – Abby Parker, USA

茶 When I first smelled the dry leaves of “underneath the pine” I thought about wood. The smell stayed so present that it transported me into a warm autumn day in the forest throughout the whole session. The red-brown color reminded me of fallen leaves in the wind, the trees gently and slowly preparing for winter. The tea connected with my heart and made my chest do a slow joyful dance, swinging with the leaves. This feeling of lightness was supported with every sip, leaving a very soft bitterness and warmth in my mouth. – Sophie Taenzer, Germany

茶 The raw smell of soil in the dry leaves instantly took me to the dynamic ecosystems of the forest and introduced me to the life crawling amongst the roots of the trees. Upon drinking, she was soft and stable. Cup after cup, the heat from the velvety honey-hued liquid lingered around my tem- ples before steadily sinking to my abdomen, a balanced Qi throughout. The consistent smooth wash over my mouth and tongue and strong hui tian revealed a steady body and structure, with a lingering light breeze that could be sensed between the leaves. – Resham Daswani, Hong Kong

茶 Crisp, fresh, awake, clear, like the moments before the sun creeps through the tree tops, finding its way through the fog to the soil... Opening the heart and caressing the lungs. A gen- tle silky sweetness with each cup. This tea brings clarity to the mind and softness to the heart. – Laura Chandler, Australia

茶 Sheltered under the pines, the wind swirls around me. As I breathe the fragrance in, my mind quiets to sense the deeper truths in the tea. The aroma moves up into my fore- head. I felt a sense of calm move from the physical to the subtle body. – Sam Gibb, Taiwan/New Zealand

Check out the video on brewing tips now! www.globalteahut.org/videos

11/ Beneath the Pines (Song Xia, 松下) Brewing Tips ike shou puerh or aged puerh, aged Liu Bao is often better when it is a bit darker. Try adding a bit more leaf than you are used to, or steep the tea a Lbit longer. You want the liquor to be dark red or even black (like the name of the genre). When the steam swirls around the dark liquor, with shades that fade from black to browns, and then into maroons and reds with a gold ring around the edge, you will know you have got the perfect cup of aged tea. Heat will be very important when brewing dark, aged black tea like this month’s. Not only will you want hotter water, but the source will be very important. Try to seek out the best quality heat and kettle combination you can for this tea. If you have multiple options, definitely choose whatever is the best. (If you don’t have a choice of heat source and/or kettle, then be content with what you do have.) We will post some of the information concerning heat and kettles in the Further Readings section for this issue. If you do “preserve the heat” with a tea like this, you will find it brews up much richer, darker and more full-bodied. It will also be more patient (耐泡), which means you’ll get more steepings. As we spoke about in the Gongfu Tea Tips last month, keeping the tea patient and fluent from cup to cup makes a huge difference in a session, especially when brewing gongfu. With a tea like this, proper brewing will have more to do with heat than any other practical consideration. If you focus on cultivating and maintaining a high and consistent temperature, you will find that you get way more enjoyment out of this month’s tea. There’s really no better brewing advice for this month than that! Liu Bao Tea Six Castles of Bliss 六座城堡福氣茶人: Wu Ping Honorary Deputy President of the Wuzhou City Liu Bao Tea Association 六

What defines Liu Bao tea? This is something that not many people can articulate; even those who are well-versed in Cha Dao often know little more than some basic facts: that it’s a member of the black tea family 堡 with a rich history and that it takes its name from its place of origin: Liu Bao village, in Cangwu County, Wuzhou City, in China’s Guangxi Province. As for the precise characteristics of Liu Bao tea, up until the last decade or so, nobody had been clear about these for a very long 黑 time. This led to a situation where the name “Liu Bao” was used indis- criminately to refer to any black tea produced in the area surrounding Wuzhou. To remedy this, the Guangxi Inspection and Quarantine Bu- reau released an official standard entitled Liu Bao Tea. This publication 茶 details the characteristics of Liu Bao, including its distinctive aroma and traditional production method, and discusses the significance and scope of this unique variety of tea.

iu Bao tea (六堡茶) is a classic largely on the mutual approval of the steadily producing Liu Bao tea at the example of Chinese black tea, two parties regarding the standard of time. The official Liu Bao Tea standard or heicha (黑茶). (In Chinese, the tea, rather than any accurate or contains a precise definition: Liu Bao L“black” tea refers to a category of dark, scientific criteria. There wasn’t any tea (traditionally also called Liu Pao fermented teas similar to puerh, and kind of governing body or officially in English) is made from the leaves of distinct from red tea. What is usu- recognized standard to regulate man- the Camellia sinensis (L.) O. Kuntze ally called “black” tea in English is ufacturing, which made it difficult tea plant. It’s made using the tender actually red tea.) It’s named after the to expand the Liu Bao market. So it leaves and stems of new shoots and place where it was traditionally pro- became necessary to establish a uni- is manufactured according to the tra- duced, Liu Bao, or “Six Castles,” Vil- fied standard in order to promote a ditional Liu Bao tea-making method. lage in Cangwu. During the planned flourishing export market, regulate the This is divided into two parts: the economy period, the definition of Liu examination and quality control of first is the early processing, which Bao tea widened to include any black Liu Bao, and protect the legal rights includes “kill-green” (firing in a wok tea produced using the traditional of all parties involved in the export to halt oxidization), rolling, heaping, Wuzhou method in the surrounding industry. or wodui (渥堆), rolling again, then areas of Guangxi, including Heng drying. The second part of the process County, Lin’gui County, and cities is refining the tea, which involves sift- such as Guilin, Hezhou, and Cenxi. The Official Definition ing, blowing, selecting, grading, ini- Production was concentrated around of Liu Bao Tea tial steaming while heaped, a second three major factories in Wuzhou, Gui- steaming whilst pressing into shape, lin, and Heng County. Altogether, the The Guangxi Inspection and Quar- and finally, maturing. This delicate Wuzhou area produces a little over antine Bureau released the official and complex process results in the 1200 tons of Liu Bao tea each year. Of export standard for Liu Bao tea on unique black tea that is Liu Bao. these, over 800 tons are exported annu- April 8, 2003, and implemented it Although the official Liu Bao Tea ally to nearby regions and countries on October 8 of the same year. It was standard doesn’t go into the manu- such as Hong Kong, Macau, Southeast the first industry standard for Liu Bao facturing process in much detail, a Asia, and Japan. The remainder is sold tea and had the support of fifteen rel- more in-depth introduction to the domestically, with the major markets evant companies and organizations, various steps in the process can be located in the provinces of Guangdong including the Technical Supervision found in related publications such as and Guangxi. Department, the Guangxi Tea Import the Guangxi Local Products Corpora- For many years, there was no uni- and Export Corporation, the Guangxi tion’s The Processing and Inspection of fied standard for the export of Liu Local Products Corporation, and the Tea Leaves, which includes a thorough Bao tea. Trade agreements relied two major enterprises who had been introduction.

301414 Liu Bao Tea In addition, two researchers brewed tea leaves should be red- idase, pectase, cellulase, and proteases. from the Wuzhou Tea Factory in dish-brown. Before brewing the leaves The chemical changes catalyzed in the Guangxi—technician Yang Jinquan ( are straight and even like the mao- tea include oxidization, polymeriza- 楊錦泉) and former factory deputy cha, but with a dark, blackish-brown tion, degradation, and isomerization; head Liao Qingmei (廖慶梅)—have glossy appearance, and are also for example, the starch in the tea leaves carried out in-depth quantitative stud- “clean.” In addition to this, the Liu is transformed into monosaccharides, ies into each step in the Liu Bao tea Bao tea produced in Wuzhou is aged and polyphenol-type chemical com- production process, based on practi- in caves for a long time, and devel- pounds are oxidized. These chemical cal experimentation. This has allowed ops a mottled yellow color known as transformations alter the color, scent, them to make some recommendations “Golden Flowers,” or Jin Hua (金花). and flavor of the tea. The color of the as to how best to control and evaluate The “Golden Flowers” that develop tea liquor becomes a reddish-brown, the production process; their findings on Liu Bao tea leaves become more the “raw” scent is eliminated, and the represent the most complete, scien- prominent with maturation—experts aroma and flavor are enhanced; all of tific, and practical research to date on have identified them as Eurotium cri- these elements come together to create the traditional Liu Bao tea production statum, a type of beneficial fungus. As Liu Bao tea’s distinctive style and fla- method. the Eurotium cristatum grows, it me- vor. Over the long history of Liu Bao tabolizes certain chemicals from the tea tea drinking, the presence of “Golden leaves and produces various extracellu- Flowers” has become a well-established The “Liu Bao Fragrance” lar enzymes including polyphenol ox- marker of superior quality tea.

Liu Bao tea is known for its distinctive aroma, reminiscent of the betel, or areca, nut. The official Liu Bao Tea standard contains the following description of this famed Liu Bao fragrance: “Liu Bao maocha (毛茶, unprocessed tea leaves) should possess these qualities: the fragrance should be mellow, rich, and refreshing; the flavor rich, strong and refreshing. Refined, fully processed Liu Bao tea should have the following qualities: the fragrance should be pure, mellow, and rich, with the scent of betel nut; the taste should be strong and full-bodied with a betel nut flavor and a sweet aftertaste.” (There will be a more detailed discussion of this distinctive fragrance in the Further Read- ings on our blog.)

The Unique Characteristics of Liu Bao Tea

In addition to the requirements for fragrance and flavor, the Liu Bao Te a standard also outlines the following qualities: Liu Bao maocha liquor should be a clear reddish-yellow; the brewed leaves should be tender with an even yellow-brown color. The unbrewed leaves are straight, even, tightly twisted and of uniform size. They are light brown and lustrous in appearance, and are categorized as “clean,” meaning that no extraneous matter (such as tea twigs or other ingredients) are present in the tea leaves. Refined Liu Bao tea should have clear, deep red liquor, and the

15/ Introduction to Liu Bao Tea Liu Bao tea is often summarized two enterprises, the Guangxi Inspec- and passing down the history, craft, using four words: “red, rich, aged, and tion and Quarantine Bureau com- and culture behind Liu Bao tea. mellow.” The best Liu Bao teas are piled the Liu Bao Tea standard based This new era of standardized pro- recognized by their distinct betel nut on the existing practices of the two duction brought about a significant taste and aroma, and the presence of factories, and released it the follow- increase in the quality of Liu Bao “Golden Flowers” on the tea leaves. ing year (2003). This standard out- tea and guaranteed a uniformly high lined the technical specifications for standard, which earned it the recog- the production of Liu Bao tea, and nition of both local and international The Results of the marked the start of an era of standard- consumers. This helped the industry Liu Bao Tea Standard ized production. It represented a mile- to gradually emerge from a difficult stone in the development of Liu Bao period and really begin to flourish. In 2002, prior to the release of the tea, signifying that the art of Liu Bao The implementation of the official Liu Bao Tea standard, there were only production had reached a mature and Liu Bao Tea standard has had tangible two factories producing Liu Bao—the stable state, and that Liu Bao tea had benefits for all involved in the indus- Wuzhou Tea Factory and the Wuzhou become a product with a rich sense of try, including tea factory owners, tea Tea Import and Export Corporation terroir. These two factories have now merchants, supervisory bodies, and, of Tea Processing Plant. The tea they been manufacturing and exporting course, tea drinkers. produced was mostly for export. With Liu Bao tea for several decades; they the support and cooperation of these have been instrumental in developing

Modern Liu Bao.

16 Liu Bao Tea Origins of Liu Bao 六茶人: Donated by Guangxi Publishing House 堡 When exploring any topic, especially with the passion of a true tea lover, there can be a polarization of education- al methodology into either focusing completely on the 起 “factual,” or over-romantcizing the mytho-poetic. In the Hut, we’ve always favored a holistic approach to tea, learning about all aspects of production and science along with spirit 源 and poetry. It really does seem like one misses out on so much of what tea has to offer without both. In this issue, we’re going to thoroughly explore the Heavenly and Earthly castles!

iu Bao tea is famed for its rich tea has been grown since ancient times: world. So, he ordered Xi Wangmu, the history. We know from histori- the legends of Liu Bao have been passed Queen Mother of the West, to descend L cal tea records that it was already down through many generations. to the mortal realm accompanied being produced in the Tang Dynasty, by an entourage of fairies in order to and was known far and wide by the conduct an investigation. On her way Ming and Qing. During the Qing The Origin of Liu Bao Tea down to earth, the Queen Mother of Dynasty, the Empress Dowager is said the West happened upon Black Stone to have drunk Liu Bao tea throughout Of all the tea-growing mountains Village, and, as she was thirsty, took her life for beautification and weight in the Liu Bao Village district, the tea a sip from a clear spring that flowed loss, and as a general tonic for good leaves from Tangping Village’s Black there. The water tasted so wonderful, health. Liu Bao tea was also presented Stone Mountain (黑石山) are the so sweet and refreshing, that it instant- as a precious gift to foreign envoys and most famous. Liu Bao is inhabited by ly washed away all her weariness from bestowed upon chancellors as a reward people of the Yao ethnic group and the long journey. She was so delighted for good deeds and loyal service. This the majority Han ethnicity, who live that she decided to do a good deed for gave rise to a fashion for drinking Liu together peacefully. Since it’s such a re- the villagers and build a small dam, so Bao among the high-ranking officials mote and inaccessible place, tradition- that people could easily quench their in the Qing imperial household. al customs have been preserved since thirst with the clear, sweet water. In the more recent past, Liu Bao ancient times; it’s an idyllic, almost So, she ordered her fairies to work was the most commonly exported va- utopian little mountain village. Even through the night to move the ma- riety of tea and was held in great es- today, the local tea growers continue ny-colored stones in order to build teem by overseas Chinese. Over the to pass down knowledge and customs the dam. As they worked, the color- last hundred years it has earned a place through the generations. Some of the ful stones radiated their brilliant light in the everyday lives of people in Ma- oldest known Liu Bao tea trees grow all around the sky, and the whole area laysia, where it is regarded as an essen- on Black Stone Mountain, which is around Tangping was lit up as bright as tial health product. But where exactly named after two large black stones day. It was so bright that it woke one did Liu Bao tea originate? When was it that sit atop the mountain. According of the peasant women from the village, first planted and harvested? Although to local folklore, there are two ancient who, thinking that the day had already the reading of historical texts may not trees growing on that mountain that begun—and an unusually bright day it yet have brought us definitive answers are the original ancestors of all the Liu was, too—got up to dry some clothes to these questions, there are certainly Bao tea plants alive today. and began to beat her dustpan. Clang, some interesting answers to be found It is said that a very long time ago, clang, clang! The sound of the dustpan by talking to the local tea farmers. Ac- the Jade Emperor wanted to better echoed through the rolling hills and cording to local oral history, Liu Bao understand the customs of the human into the forest and mountains nearby.

17 Before the rise of Kuan- yin, Xi Wangmu, the Queen Mother of the West, was the most important goddess in Chinese culture. The first time she is mentioned dates back to the dawn of history, in the fifteenth century B.C.E. (Shang Dynasty, 1766–1122 B.C.E.), on orac- ular bones that were used in divination ceremonies. She has long ties with Daoism, and is even mentioned in the works of Zhuangzi. She is always depicted as a royal, courtly and noble woman, as in this painting of her with her attendant. She is believed to bestow longevity, health and even immortality onto the loyal. Liu Bao Tea The fairies, hearing the sound and thinking the dawn was upon them, hurriedly abandoned their work and vanished back to the heavens. The many-colored stones, abandoned in mid- air, fell down to earth and landed beside the village. So, the villagers didn’t get their dam, but beside the stream there now stood a beautiful, multi-colored cliff. When the Queen Mother of the West saw that her good deed had not come to fruition, she ordered the fairies to place two magical tea seeds into the cracks of the many-colored cliff, and set a fairy dog to guard them. Many years passed, until finally the immortal tea plants began to grow. Af- ter so many seasons of lashing rain and beating sun, the cliffs were no longer rainbow-colored, but had turned completely black. Having finally accom- plished his duty, the faithful little fairy dog left an image of himself in stone on the cliff-top; then he, too, bid the mortal world farewell and returned to the heavens. The two magical trees grew lush and green, and every year the villagers would scale the cliff to harvest the tea so they could brew it for their visitors. The visitors had never tasted such pure, rich, and mellow tea, and smacked their lips in praise. When the villagers drank the tea after a hard day in the fields, he suddenly received a letter from his out the tea; dear brother needs some their thirst was instantly quenched beloved. In it was written a song: “Do help from me!” The clever girl told and their throats soothed. Whenever not worry, elder brother dear; your him to boil a half-full pan of water and they went up the mountain to chop little sister’s family for riches does not place a bamboo steamer on top, then firewood or harvest mushrooms, they care. With a true heart you must come to press the Liu Bao tea leaves into would always bring a big gourd full of to fetch me, and bring a small basket the steamer as they softened. In this the wonderful tea. The people of Black filled with tenjin of tea.” (It was quite way he pressed the leaves down layer Stone Village have never forgotten that usual for all young people to call each by layer, and in no time at all the ten black stone cliff and those two fairy other “brother” and “sister” as terms of jin of tea leaves were compressed into trees: this delightful folktale has been affection.) When the young lad read a beautiful, neat cake of tea. And so it handed down through the generations the letter he was at once both over- was done! The young man easily put and is still told today. joyed and anxious. The joyous part was the tea cake into the small basket and that the family of his wife-to-be didn’t carried it to his fiancée’s family home require money or expensive gifts; but in high spirits, singing all the way. The Story of Liu Bao the worrying part was this: ten jin of From that day on, people carried on Tea Baskets dry tea leaves was enough to fill a very, the tradition of compressing tea into very large basket—how was he sup- cakes by steaming it, and they still do A very long time ago, so the story posed to carry it in a “small basket” to to this day. goes, lived a young man and a young his beloved’s home? He thought hard Although we have no way of know- woman who were very much in love. for three days and three nights, but he ing whether these legends sprang from When they met, they would sing beau- was still stumped. real events, these two stories certain- tiful duets together—that was how After all this time, the thoughtful ly do tell us a few things: firstly; that young people courted, in those days. young girl guessed her sweetheart’s Liu Bao tea originated in Black Stone They wanted to get married, and the worries, so she cleared her throat and Village. Secondly, the fact that these young man was busy worrying over sang out to him: “Your future wife will stories have been passed down via oral how to pay a suitable bridewealth to give you a test; a clever wife always tradition, rather than in written form, her family, as was the custom, when knows best! I cannot get married with- confirms that they originate from a

19/ Origins of Liu Bao Liu Bao baskets come in all shapes and sizes these days. This is a one-kilogram basket that Henry produced in the early 2000s. Though there are legends surrounding using baskets, wrapping tea in some form of bamboo is very old. The two plants have had a friendship for millennia, because they work well together energet- ically, grow near each other and bamboo is also relatively odorless.

This is not one of the two legendary ancestor plants of Liu Bao, but it is quite an old tree and has many descendants in a garden just beneath the place where it is growing. Some people think this varietal of tea, called “zhuye,” came from Hunan, but old trees like this would suggest that tea production in Liu Bao is much older than other black tea producing regions. There are also even older examples than this one in the forest. historical period before the local peo- lot of places where you can find Black several hundred years old, with trunks ple had much contact with the wider Stone tea trees. Most of these wild tea reaching 30–40 centimeters in diame- world, and before the society became trees have trunks no wider than a large- ter, which is evidence of a tea-growing literate. And lastly, they express the im- ish coin in diameter, and they grow tradition stretching back much further portance of Liu Bao tea to the genera- across the entire mountainside. As far than two hundred years. As for the sim- tions of tea growers who have lived in as we know, all these wild tea plants ilarity in production technique, this the area and their sincere gratitude and may well be the descendants of those could simply indicate that there was esteem for the mountains, trees, and two ancient monarchs, which have some contact between early tea grow- leaves that have such a lasting presence gradually grown and multiplied over ers in Hunan and Guangxi provinces, in their lives. the generations. owing to their relative geographical As for the different varieties of Liu proximity. Nonetheless, the possibili- Bao tea plant, some of the local tea ty that the tea varieties and processing The Historical Origins growers say that the original plants techniques may have come to Liu Bao of Liu Bao Tea plants came from Hunan Province’s Jianghua Village from Hunan hasn’t been entire- and Dao Counties two hundred years ly ruled out. After all, Yunnan Province The two magic trees from the Liu ago, arriving in Liu Bao via Babu in is considered to be the birthplace of Bao story are immortalized in legend Guangxi’s He County, and are of the the world’s tea, so it’s quite possible as the ancestors of today’s Liu Bao tea variety known in Chinese as “zhuye that teas and techniques might spread plants. According to some of the elder- (櫧葉).” This theory certainly has outwards along the country’s many wa- ly inhabitants of Black Stone Village, some evidence behind it: zhuye tea terways. So, while we have yet to defin- there really are two such majestic old plants also grow in Hunan Province, itively establish the exact origins of the tea trees growing somewhere on the and the black tea (heicha) from Anhua Liu Bao tea plant variety or the evo- mountain, although they’re very hard and other parts of Hunan is produced lution of the manufacturing process, to find. The vegetation on Black Stone using a very similar method to Liu Bao. it’s a fascinating topic that provides tea Mountain is dense, verdant subtropi- However, some experts disagree experts and scholars with plenty more cal rainforest, with tea plants growing with this theory, as some of the ex- scope for investigation. wild along the roadsides, so there are a isting tea trees in Liu Bao Village are

20 Liu Bao Tea 現 Modern Liu Bao Tea 代 Production in Wuzhou City 六茶人: Donated by Wuzhou City Agricultural Bureau 堡茶 In recent years, as the influence of Chinese black tea, or heicha, has risen, Wuzhou’s Liu Bao tea has also seen a swell in 生 popularity. Its distinctive flavor and beneficial health properties have gradually earned it renewed recognition and esteem among the world’s tea lovers. Aged Liu Bao has been play- 產 fully referred to as “an antique you can drink,” and is often copared to the famous vintages of puerh tea.

iu Bao tea was originally pro- yearly temperature is between 19.3°C slightly acidic, with a pH level between duced in several small villages and 21.4°C, while the monthly aver- 4.5 and 6.5. The soil layer is deep and L in Cangwu County, part of the age is over 10°C throughout Wuzhou loose, with plenty of humus, nutrients, Wuzhou City area in Guangxi, includ- (except for Mengshan County, where and water, providing a fertile environ- ing Lion Village and the tea’s name- the monthly average is below 10°C). ment ideal for growing tea and culti- sake, Liu Bao Village. The industry has The highest recorded temperature vating the microorganisms that are grown a lot since then, and Liu Bao is is 39.9°C and the lowest is -3.2°C. unique to Liu Bao. now produced in other surrounding The average yearly rainfall is between Wuzhou’s geographical, climate, villages and townships such as Cangwu 1400–1600 millimeters, with around and soil conditions are unique to the County’s Libu, Jingnan, and Shatou; 1533.7–1789 hours of sunshine per area and contribute to the region’s mi- Teng County’s Lingjing, Jinji, Xinqing year, and a typical relative humidity of crobial diversity and the growth of the and Mengjiang; Mengshan County’s 76%–82%. The region is usually frost- beneficial fungus that Liu Bao tea pro- Huangcun, Xihe and Xinwei; Cenxi free for 336–349 days of the year. All duces. The environment has remained City’s Shuiwen, Nandu, and Daye; these elements add up to form a cli- reasonably stable throughout the long and two villages in districts of Wuzhou mate in Wuzhou that is perfectly suit- history of Liu Bao tea production in city: Wanxiu district’s Wangfu Village ed to growing tea plants. Wuzhou. Makers of Liu Bao tradition- and Dieshan District’s Xiaying Vil- The Wuzhou city area has a unique ally aged the tea in caves, which pre- lage. Altogether, this equals an area of topography, characterized by a low-ly- served the population of beneficial mi- around 2866 hectares of tea planta- ing central region surrounded by ele- croorganisms that are produced during tions. There are currently 24 different vated land on all sides—traditional- the manufacturing process. This pro- tea manufacturers, and together they ly described using the phrase “eight vided a favorable biological environ- produce around 7300 tons of Liu Bao mountains, one river, one field.” Sev- ment that ensured Wuzhou could con- tea each year. eral rivers flow through the region, tinue to produce pure, authentic Liu including the Xunjiang, Xijiang, Gui- Bao tea, with its unique characteristics jiang and Beiliu rivers. Altogether the that are so intimately tied to the local total surface area of Guangxi’s 784 geography. The Natural Environment rivers and waterways makes up 9.28% of Liu Bao Tea Gardens of the total land area. The area where Wuzhou Liu Bao tea leaves are grown The Liu Bao Wuzhou City is situated near the is lush with vegetation all year round, Manufacturing Process Tropic of Cancer and has a subtropi- with 72% forest coverage and a plen- cal monsoon climate—it’s hot and hu- tiful water supply. The soil is mainly These days, the first of three parts mid with plenty of rain. The average clay and sandy loam and tends to be of the Liu Bao production process is

21 done as follows: “kill-green,” rolling, with machine-rolling the volume varies so the piles need to be turned over fermenting in piles, rolling again, and according to the size of the machine. from time to time to dissipate the heat. drying. The second part of processing When rolling Liu Bao tea leaves the After fermenting, the rolled tea includes sifting and shaping, separat- main thing is for the leaves to remain leaves will have started to unfurl slight- ing the stalks and leaves, heaping into intact. Breaking down the cells of the ly, so they need to be rolled again for piles, cold fermentation, drying over a leaves is of secondary importance— 5–6 minutes. Then comes the drying stove, steaming, pressing into baskets, they only need to be about 40% dam- process, which has two parts: “first fir- and aging in a cool place. aged, so an appropriate amount of pres- ing” over high heat, then “full firing” The first half of the production pro- sure must be used. The general process at a lower temperature. The tea leaves cess starts with the tea picking. Each is as follows: roll lightly, press lightly, are traditionally spread out about 3.3 bud is usually picked with three or press more firmly, press lightly, roll cm deep on bamboo drying frames, four leaves—the tea leaves are picked lightly, then separate the leaves after and should preferably be heated us- during the day and processed at night. rolling. First-grade and second-grade ing pinewood. The temperature of the For the kill-green step (firing to halt tea leaves are normally rolled for 40 flame needs to be around 80–90°C and oxidization), the temperature of the minutes, while third-grade leaves and the leaves are turned over every 5–6 wok is 160°C and the leaves are cooked below are rolled for 45–50 minutes. minutes. Once the leaves are 60–70% in batches of around 2–2.5 kilograms; After rolling comes the process of dry they are taken off the heat and with a kill-green machine it’s around heaping, where the semi-processed tea spread out to cool for half an hour. 7.5 kg each time. Once in the pan the leaves are piled into baskets or onto Then they are fired again at a tempera- leaves are first fired while covered, then bamboo mats to ferment. This process ture of 50–60°C in piles around 6.6 stirred and tossed, then a combination is key in determining the color, aroma, cm deep for 2–3 hours, until the tea of the two—young, tender leaves are and flavor of Liu Bao. The damp tea stalks snap when bent. tossed for longer, while older leaves leaves are piled 3–5 centimeters deep The second part of the Liu Bao tea are covered for longer. The kill-green with about 1.5 kg of tea per basket, manufacturing process is refining the process usually lasts 5–6 minutes, un- and are left to ferment for at least 15 tea. These days, this begins with cold til the leaves and buds are soft and the hours. The heaping process doesn’t re- fermentation: moisture is added to stalks bend but don’t break, and the quire very high heat—the heat source the tea leaves until their water content tea leaves turn the appropriate darkish need only be around 60°C, and the tea reaches 12%; then the leaves are fer- green color. After the leaves are spread leaves should be heated until they’re mented in heaps for 7–10 days to sup- out to cool they are rolled, either by around 50–60% dry before heaping. plement the fermentation that occurred hand or by machine (more often by The temperature of the tea piles them- in the early processing. When the machine these days). When rolling by selves needs to stay around 40°C—if it moisture content of the leaves has been hand one can roll 1–1.5 kg at a time; rises above 50°C the leaves will burn, reduced to an average of around 10%,

22 Liu Bao Tea

they are steamed for half an hour, until six months of aging, the liquor of the with the addition of “Golden Flow- they are completely soft and the wa- mature tea develops a deeper red color, ers,” the spores of a highly-prized type ter content has increased to 15–16%. a cool, refreshing mouthfeel, and that of fungus that grows on the tea. The After this, the traditional method classic aged Liu Bao flavor. These qual- liquor is also a deep red; the flavor is involves storing the tea in heaps for ities gave rise to the common epithet mellow and refreshing with a pure aro- 20–30 days, so that the moisture and used to describe Liu Bao tea: “red, rich, ma and a unique betel nut fragrance. heat can act on the tea leaves and fur- mellow, and aged.” Liu Bao tea can be stored for a long ther alter their chemical structure. The time—the more mature, the better. antioxidant action of the tea polyphe- These days, two different kinds of nols causes an increase in compounds Distinct Characteristics refined Liu Bao tea are available on such as theaflavins and thearubigens, the market: those made using the tra- enriching the color, flavor, and aroma The defining features of Liu Bao are ditional manufacturing process, and of the tea until it takes on the unique similar for both the maocha (“raw” or those made using modern methods. character of Liu Bao. semi-processed tea leaves) and refined Both kinds are essentially the same, The last step in the process is an Liu Bao, with a couple of differenc- though with some subtle differences. essential one: aging. Once the leaves es. Liu Bao maocha leaves are a glossy The leaves of traditional hand-made have been steamed for the second time, blackish-brown, with thick, heavy Liu Bao tend to be a little thicker and they are cooled down, and the remain- leaves. The liquor is a deep red with weightier. The liquor is a slightly light- ing moisture is allowed to evaporate. a mellow aroma and a rich, refreshing er red compared to machine-processed The finished Liu Bao tea is packed into flavor; the used leaves are a reddish Liu Bao, a brownish-red that recalls baskets and piled up in cool, damp brown. Refined Liu Bao tea leaves have the color of Chinese dates. By contrast, earthen storehouses to age. After about a similar dark, lustrous appearance, it has a stronger flavor, and when ma-

23/ Modern Liu Bao Tea Traditional processing of Liu Bao tea always in- Also known as Eurotium cristatum, most of the cluded aging before the baskets even left the facto- golden bunches are actually spores. Chinese people ries. Some factories used air raid tunnels to age the have always determined the quality of many teas tea, alternating between the more humid tunnels by how much “Golden Flowers (Jin Hua)” they and drier warehouses. Nowadays, some factories have. This is especially true of the brick teas of Hu- are returning to the traditional methods and aging nan, where such mold is most desirable. Tradition- their teas once again in earthen warehouses, like ally, Liu Bao tea was not characterized in this way, the one shown here, to make sure the tea is ripe though it is sometimes found with this kind of mold enough before it reaches the consumer. on it, as shown here.

tured for a long time, becomes genuine as well as relieving heat in the summer When drunk regularly over a long aged Liu Bao. and dispelling excess moisture. It is period, Liu Bao can have benefits for Liu Bao made using modern meth- good for the eyesight, aids digestion, fitness and weight loss, as well as main- ods has leaves that are fine, tightly and energizes and clears the mind. It taining a restful mind and a healthy rolled, and evenly shaped. The liquor can be drunk after a meal to aid diges- digestive system. is a deep red, while the flavor and aro- tion, or on an empty stomach to settle ma are not as strong as those of tradi- the digestive system. After drinking tionally hand-made tea. The use of ma- Liu Bao you’ll notice a sudden feeling Brewing Methods chinery in modern Liu Bao processing of comfort and ease in both mind and cuts down on aging time and allows body. Liu Bao is perfect for drinking When brewing Liu Bao tea, the the tea to be produced more efficiently. when it’s hot and humid—it provides requirements for the water are a bit relief from hot summer weather and more particular than usual: in order to brings a welcome sense of refreshment. allow the nutrients in the tea to fully Health Benefits Liu Bao contains many essential dissolve, it must be brewed with prop- amino acids, vitamins, and trace el- erly boiling water. It’s important to use In Traditional Chinese Medicine, ements. In addition to this, scientific very hot water to “rinse” the leaves, as Liu Bao is considered a “cooling” and studies and the observations of Liu Bao it cleanses the tea leaves and “awakens” “warming” tea. In addition to the enthusiasts both attest that this tea is the tea. If the temperature of the water general health benefits that it shares more effective at breaking down fats is less than 100°C, it’s difficult to fully with other teas, Liu Bao also has some that other types of tea, and can help achieve the rich, refreshing flavor that unique properties. It can alleviate ex- lower levels of fat compounds, cho- Liu Bao should have. It’s also import- cess internal heat and ease breathing, lesterol, and triglycerides in the body. ant to warm up your tea implements

24 Liu Bao Tea before brewing and serving, as this also has a monopoly on the market with helps to awaken the active properties its “Duo Te Li” brand. Other brands of the tea that have long lain dormant include The Yintai Liu Bao Tea Co., within the leaves. Ltd.’s “Cang Shun” brand, the Cangwu Liu Bao Tea Co., Ltd.’s “Cang Song” brand. There are also some tea brands Main Varieties that are named after the company that produces them, for example the Wu- Liu Bao tea plants are bushy with zhou Guding Liu Bao Tea Factory’s 迷 densely-growing branches. The tea can “Guding” brand, the Wuzhou City be divided into four categories accord- Gui Jinhua Liu Bao Tea Co., Ltd.’s ing to the color of the tea buds. Ac- “Gui Jinhua” and “He Shou” brands, cording to an informal survey, about and the Wuzhou Qian Nian Liu Bao 60% of Liu Bao is made from green Tea Co., Ltd.’s “Qian Nian (Thousand buds, around 20% from purple buds, Years)” brand. 霧 5% from large, light-colored leaves, Aside from the tea factories men- and 15% from fragmented leaves. The tioned above, some of the other main tea made from green buds is considered Liu Bao tea producers in Wuzhou are superior, as well as being produced in the Wuzhou City Suiyuan Liu Bao Tea the greatest quantity. Factory, the Wuzhou City Gushu Liu The tea plants naturally grow to Bao Tea Factory, the Cangwu County be around 2 meters high and 80 cm Huaqiang Liu Bao Black Tea Refining 中 wide, with densely growing branches Factory, The Wuzhou City Xiaoya Liu and about 3.6 cm between joints on Bao Tea Factory, the Wuzhou City each twig. The leaves are oval-shaped, Yuanshan Liu Bao Tea Co., Ltd., the about 8.3 cm long and 3.6 cm wide, Wuzhou City Yi Hu Chun Liu Bao Tea and grow on an upwards diagonal. The Factory, the Wuzhou City Liu Bao Vil- surface of the leaves is smooth and flat lage Heishi Mountain Tea Factory, the 覺 or slightly bulging, and the edges are Wuzhou Liu Bao Mountain Tea Co., serrated. Ltd., the Guangzi Liu Bao Village Tea The tips of the new shoots are usual- Co., Ltd., and the Tengxian Fuding ly a soft green, with a few purple ones. Tea Company. The shoots grow closely together and This impressive array of companies don’t have much fuzz, and tend to stay helps to paint a picture of today’s flour- 道 fairly soft and tender. Liu Bao is made ishing Liu Bao market and the impor- from early-sprouting tea plants—the tance of this iconic tea to the Wuzhou buds begin to appear in the middle area. As suggested by its namesake, of March, and are harvested in early Liu Bao Village, this is a tea that is April. By the middle third of Octo- intrinsically connected to the land it ber the trees are no longer growing came from, and the tea we drink today 路 sprouts, and the remaining leaves are has been shaped by Wuzhou’s unique sparse and of lesser quality. They turn ecological environment, as well as a darker green with strongly serrated the changing practices of Liu Bao tea edges and blunt tips, and begin to curl makers over the centuries. It really has in slightly. earned its status as a prized “antique.”

Major Manufacturers & Brands of Liu Bao On a foggy, misty morn- Nowadays there are many brands of ing, one of the authors, Mr. Wuzhou Liu Bao tea. Some of the most Peng (who also wrote the well-known brands in mainland China, most thorough book on Liu in order of influence, are the Wuzhou Bao tea in Chinese, called Tea Factory’s “Three Cranes” brand, simply “Liu Bao”) shows the Wuzhou Tea Import and Export us different kinds of plants Corporation’s “Zhong Cha” and “Duo and leaves used to make Liu Te Li,” and the Wuzhou Maosheng Tea Bao, including purple bud Ind. Co., Ltd.’s “Maosheng” brand. In and zhuye. This garden is terms of overseas exports, the Wuzhou also organic, which is in- Zhong Cha Tea Co., Ltd. more or less spiring.

25/ Modern Liu Bao Tea

Gongfu Tea Tips 空或 Space or Fullness in the Pot 茶人: Sam Gibb 全

Alongside another important gongfu tea experiment, Sam brings up an amazing point in this issue: We have to find the right balance between enjoying tea and improving our art: too much relaxing and 茶 enjoying tea and we don’t get better, growing lazy over time, and too much focus and we get tight and lose the relaxation and joy that is at the heart of all tea appreciation. 壶信

lmost two years ago, on the This month’s gongfu experiment liquor from the completely filled pot. annual Global Tea Hut trip was another great reminder for me to Focus on the 10 Qualities of a Fine Tea to Wuyi, I remember Master cultivate the right attitude. Wu De and also note the temperature differ- ALin mentioning that we should only forced me to do the experiment myself. ence between them. fill our gongfu teapot 80% with water. In Zen there is the saying, “Kill the However, this obviously requires This stuck with me for some reason. It teacher,” meaning you cannot rely on two identical Zisha pots! For those didn’t make sense. Why would we only your teacher for your growth. Tea, or of you that do not have two, you can fill the pot 80%—surely this would any spiritual practice, art or discipline, still try the experiment using just one decrease the temperature of the water? is not just about intellectually knowing pot. Again, remember to brew your When I asked Wu De about it, he told how to do something but about the ex- tea lightly and then alternate steeping me that Master Lin always insisted perience of it. Part of us always wants between 80% and completely full. Be- that his students do the experiment the easiest path, the work already done, cause you are not comparing the cups before discussing the results. He also the package neatly wrapped. Waiting side by side, you should definitely take confused me by saying that some of for this to happen expends time we notes. I find it helps to write the 10 our teapots here are exceptions to the could be using to find out the answers Qualities vertically in a spreadsheet. rule. It sounded too advanced, so I put for ourselves! Wu De often says that if This makes it much easier to remem- it into the “I’ll get around to it later” a student only reaches the same level as ber what you are looking for. This may pile, which only ever seems to grow in their teacher they are half their teacher. sound nerdy (and a lot of work) but my case. While I was brewing tea alone After all, the teacher had to do all the it really helps! In fact, it helped me so I did fill the pot up one steeping and hard work to get where she is, so if the much I’ve decided to include a blank then put a little less in the next to see student only arrives at the same place form of this in the Further Readings if I’d notice the difference, but that was they’re not working as hard. We should of our blog! too unstructured and so inconclusive. surpass our teachers, in other words. As always, please go online to our Recently, I took a course on videogra- (Look out Wu De!) discussion board on the website or phy and the lecturer mentioned that The ideal method of undertaking social media and share your findings he had taken all his lenses and tested this experiment would be to have two with the whole community. It would the sharpest focal point for each one, identical Zisha gongfu pots. Use a be interesting to hear how it went. You spending hours taking photos of soda lightly brewed tea (fewer leaves/shorter could also let everyone know what type cans. This struck a nerve in me, as this steepings), with the same amount in of pot you are using as this makes a person was really committed to his art, each pot, and brew them side by side. difference, too. We always love to hear taking the time to do long and tedious Completely fill one and the other only from you! experiments that would help him excel 80% of the way. Steep them for the in his craft. His devotion was inspiring same amount of time and then pour to me. Shouldn’t I be that committed each into its own respective cup. Taste to my tea practice? them back and forth, starting with the

28 Liu Bao Tea 馬 In Search of Liu Bao 來 A Journey Through Malaysia 西茶人: Su Yangchun/蘇映純 (Donated by Wushing)

亞 The study of Liu Bao and its history eventually must lead to Malaysia, and no issue devoted to Liu Bao would be complete 尋 without a trip there. The Chinese who emigrated to Malay- sia were very often miners. Many came from near Guangxi, 六 where Liu Bao comes from, and believed in its medicinal qualities. Since mining companies therefore had to supply Liu Bao to their employees, they started purchasing in bulk 堡 to save money, and like our magazine, Liu Bao headed to Malaysia, where destiny would have it aged and appreciated.

o understand how Liu Bao Cantonese people from Guangdong in the mines, resulting in the long-last- came to play such a significant (Canton) preferred Liu Bao or puerh. ing association between Liu Bao and role in Malaysian tea culture, I was quite astonished to hear this, as miners. But to say than Liu Bao was Twe must start by looking at the origins all the information we’d researched be- only a miner’s or laborer’s tea certainly of tea drinking in Malaysia. Malaysia’s fore arriving in Malaysia had painted doesn’t paint the whole picture—it was largest group of tea drinkers are of Chi- Liu Bao as a miner’s tea, provided to enjoyed by all kinds of people. nese origin. Most of the ethnic Chi- workers at Malaysia’s mines to relieve On this trip to Malaysia we hoped nese people in Malaysia migrated from heat and fever. This was an impression to uncover some of Liu Bao’s secrets, China’s southern provinces—Fujian, that evolved a lot through our contact so as well as visiting several large tea Guangdong, Guangxi, and Hainan— with Malaysia’s Chajin. merchants in Kuala Lumpur in order over the course of several hundred Liu Bao was a popular everyday to become more familiar with the tea years during the Ming and Qing tea among the Cantonese people. We itself, we also visited the former flour- dynasties, and in the early years of the spoke with Liu Zicai (劉子才), the ishing mining cities of Ipoh, Taiping, Republic of China. Most of these Chi- executive director of Kong Wooi Fong and Sungai Lembing to look at the old nese migrants were already accustomed Tea Merchants (廣匯豐茶行), who mines and get a taste of the local Liu to drinking tea in their homeland, so told us of the early Guangdong natives’ Bao tea culture. Although we still had after settling down in a foreign land enthusiasm for Liu Bao. The Liu Bao plenty more to learn about Liu Bao by they quite naturally sought out famil- tea that was imported into Malaysia the end of the trip, we were left with iar-tasting teas to ease their longing for in the early days of Chinese immigra- a deep and lasting impression of these home. And so the custom of drinking tion already had an established grading unique areas which are so different tea was passed down through the gen- system. First-grade, second-grade and from the urban metropolis of Kuala erations to the present day. “special-grade” teas were generally sold Lumpur. According to the Chajin and tea to restaurants and tea houses. At that shop proprietors that we met on our time, the clientele of these establish- journey, although recently arrived ments tended to be wealthy, influential A Stroll Through History: Chinese in the early days weren’t very types who were quite picky about their Ipoh fussy about their tea implements nor Liu Bao: if it wasn’t up to their stan- their surroundings, they did have a dards, they wouldn’t drink it. The low- Ipoh (怡保) is the capital city of certain attachment to their teas: you er grades of tea were sent to the mining the state of Perak, and is situated about could guess a person’s place of origin areas to supply the miners. Because of 200 kilometers to the north of where based on which tea they drank. Peo- Liu Bao tea’s ability to eliminate inter- we flew into Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur. ple from Fujian liked to drink oolong, nal dampness and relieve excess heat Ipoh was the first stop on our Liu Bao Hakka people favored green tea, and and fever, it also became very popular journey, and an important one, too.

Liu Bao Tea The city has a couple of nicknames: it’s known as the “Mountain City” because of its mountainous surroundings, and thanks to its many limestone caves and streams, it’s also sometimes called “Little Guilin,” after the city in China’s Guangxi Province famed for its rivers and striking rock formations. Recent years have seen a boom in the region’s tourism industry, but further back in the past, before World War II, it was a busy mining town abundant in tin ore. At that time, southern Chinese people were leaving their homeland in great numbers with dreams of making their fortune mining tin, and many of them put down roots in Ipoh. Today, the ethnic makeup of the city’s resi- dents is largely Cantonese and Hakka, and Cantonese is the primary language of communication. The prosperity of the mining industry at the time also attracted British colonialists who sta- tioned themselves in Ipoh, so if you take a walk down the streets of the city, Strolling through the streets of Ipoh and stopping to you can see old English buildings all peruse the old shops, you notice that Liu Bao seems over the place which remain from that not to belong exclusively in tea stores; it appears period. The whole city of Ipoh has a “ very historical feeling to it. in all sorts of places, from seafood merchants to While we were in Ipoh we visit- variety stores and paper puppet studios. The store ed a few old tea merchants; although owners explained that Liu Bao is such an everyday some of them no longer sell Liu Bao, commodity that you can buy it and drink it every- the rich cultural atmosphere and his- where; it’s not just the purview of tea merchants. torical goods that these establishments have to offer are nonetheless fascinat- We really got the feeling that Liu Bao tea has plant- ing. Strolling through the streets of ed itself into every corner of the local people’s lives. Ipoh and stopping to peruse the old shops, you notice that Liu Bao seems not to belong exclusively in tea stores; it appears in all sorts of places, from ” seafood merchants to variety stores and paper puppet studios. The store owners explained that Liu Bao is such an everyday commodity that you can buy it and drink it everywhere; it’s not just the purview of tea merchants. We really got the feeling that Liu Bao tea has planted itself into every corner of the local people’s lives.

This is a wrapper from a 1970s Liu Bao that was packaged in Ipoh. Some of the Liu Bao import companies had offices in Ipoh, usually connecting Liu Bao, Hong Kong and Malaysia.

31/ In Search of Liu Bao: A Journey Through Malaysia A Mountain Haven: Taiping

Taiping is one of the oldest towns ore have declined, the area has instead and trees. Today, the Taiping Lake in Malaysia. It is situated around 100 become a well-known holiday spot, Gardens are lush and green, and filled kilometers to the north of Ipoh. At one earning a growing reputation among with enchanting scenery. time it was the capital of Perak, before tourists who come to enjoy the area’s After soaking up the tranquility of being replaced by Ipoh in 1937. Taip- abundant natural resources and beau- Taiping Lake, we ventured on to the ing is one of few places in Malaysia with tiful scenery. Matang Mangrove Forest Reserve at a name of Chinese origin. Its name Because of the booming mining Kuala Sepetang. In the past, this area came about after a period of fighting industry in the early days, Taiping was well-known for its charcoal ex- and unrest between the local popula- achieved a lot of “firsts” in Malaysia, ports, and the charcoal workers, just tion and the early Chinese settlers; af- such as the first train station, the first like the miners, relied on drinking Liu ter the disputes were finally settled, the tin mine, and the first prison. The Bao tea to provide relief from the heat town was given its name to express the Taiping Lake was also the first man- of their work. We went to visit one of people’s prayers for continued peace in made lake. The area where the lake the still-operating charcoal kilns—the the region—in Chinese, Taiping (太 now stands was once an abandoned intensely hot, dry atmosphere around 平) means “peace and tranquility.” The mining ground that slowly accumulat- the kilns is hard to bear for very long, town was home to Malaysia’s first tin ed water and became a lake. In 1980, so it’s little wonder the charcoal work- mine and developed earlier than Ipoh. it was turned into a public garden and ers needed to drink a lot of Liu Bao to In more recent times, as supplies of tin planted with many flowers, grasses, refresh and rehydrate themselves.

32 Liu Bao Tea The Simple Life: Sungai Lembing

After visiting the first two mines we some Liu Bao. In the first glimmer of we were drawing away a veil; and yet, continued on to another famous sub- dawn and the fresh morning air, our this tea, with its long history, still holds terranean tin mine on Malaysia’s east hearts were full with the beauty of the many mysteries. There are many more coast: Sungai Lembing (also known by tea. layers of cloth for us to slowly peel the Chinese name Linming—林明). On the course of our journey away, revealing still more about Liu Home to what was once the longest through Malaysia in search of a deep- Bao’s flavor and origins. For me, the and deepest underground tin mine in er understanding of Liu Bao, we came joyful and poignant moments of our the world, Sungai Lembing was also across many interesting people and Malaysian journey have added another governed by the British colonialists places that were all connected to Liu layer of depth to Liu Bao tea: the indel- in the early days, as evidenced by the Bao tea in their own way. It felt like ible flavor of personal memories. many historic English-style buildings in the area. Although the mine has now closed down, it has left a rich cultural and historical legacy in Sungai Lembing. The renowned Sungai Lem- bing Museum contains many restored tools and historical photographs, offering visitors a detailed view into the tin mining process over the years. At the introduction of tea expert Mr. Qiu Shunchang (邱順昌), we met one of the miners who used to work in Sungai Lembing: a gentleman of sixty or seventy by the name of Mr. Zeng (曾). We were lucky enough to be guided around the tin mine by Mr. Zeng himself. Outfitted with original mining equipment, he gave us an introduction to the mining process. Standing there at the entrance to the mine, we could feel the cold air coming out of the ground—this all added up to a vivid picture of what it must have been like for the miners working in those underground tunnels, with their feet soaked in freezing water and cold drafts of air blowing past. It must have taken many gulps of strong, rich Liu Bao tea to warm their stomachs and chase away the damp. Mr. Zeng told us that in those days, the owners of the mine would always provide Liu Bao tea—if they didn’t, they wouldn’t be able to find any miners willing to work for them! Aside from its famous tin museum, Sungai Lembing is also known today for its beautiful mountain sunrises. Every year, tourists from all around arrive to stay in the village guesthous- es and catch a glimpse of the ethereal sea of clouds as the dawn breaks over the mountains. Our tea master, Mr. Qiu, suggested that we combine our appreciation of the local scenery with our quest to learn about tea, and so we headed to the top of the mountain to welcome in the sunrise while tasting

33/ In Search of Liu Bao: A Journey Through Malaysia Sunrise Tea: Mount Lembing

While in Eastern Malaysia. Tea perfect combination, producing a pot the “Four Golden Coins (四金錢)” master Lin Ping Xiang (林平祥) and of tea that left us savoring the flavor from Shenchang Xuanzhuang (慎昌選 Shunchang Qiu (邱順昌) took us to a and fragrance for hours. Master Lin 莊). A soft sweetness unfolded along- mountain along the seashore to watch said that in gongfu tea, none of the im- side the twilight of a beautiful dawn! the sunrise while sipping fantastic Liu portant elements can be compromised, Then came the grand finale, “Joy Bao tea. helping the tea to reach its full poten- to the World” (Pu Tian Gong Qing, We left at 4am to climb Lembing tial, unfolding all its subtleties. After 普天共慶, “Diamond Grade Yuan- Mountain in the pitch dark. We ar- that day, I’d have to agree! du,” 原度), the best Liu Bao there is! rived at the peak before the crack of We tasted sweet YSC Old Label The rich aroma spread out from the dawn to view the sunrise. To our sur- Liu Bao tea to quench our thirst and tip of our tongues like a drop of water prise, the masters were very prepared, catch our breath after the long hike rippled across the surface of a pond, bringing a full tea set with them. Be- up the mountain. Then we picked the just as the morning sun lit up the sur- sides a nice picnic blanket, they had stronger Zhong Cha to give us a boost roundings and our souls... As we sat on exquisite antique Yixing pots, Ming and start the day off right. After that, the highest spot in Kuantan, savoring Dynasty porcelain cups, charcoal, a PL LLLL367 was ready, and the first such fantastic Liu Bao tea, the spectac- brazier and, of course, very fine water. rays of sun shone exquisitely on the ular sunshine brightened the long-for- They even brought cushions for us all reddish tea liquor. This momentary gotten Liu Bao tea culture of Malaysia. to sit on. These Chajin understand tea! union of Heaven, Earth, Tea and hu- The coals heating clean spring water man beings moved us beyond words! and the most suitable teaware were the We fell silent… The fourth tea was

34 Vintage Liu Bao King of Black Teas No matter how you rank the best black teas in the world, Liu Bao is certainly amongst the best. We decided to show you some famous vintages which are para- gons of the genre, starting with the best of the best, which is actually amongst the most wonderful teas we have ever tried, full stop.

Considered the best Liu Bao tea in the world, and one of the best teas we have ever tried in general, is 1950s Pu Tian Gong Qing or “Joy to the World.” It was named by Master Lin himself. It was a higher grade of Liu Bao reserved for the managers and owners of the mines. Some people think that this tea may have been produced from Yunnanese raw material traded to Guangxi in a year of lower yield, arguing that beneath the processing it has a puerh body. Master Lin thinks that this is not true, however. “Joy to the World” is a deep and gorgeous tea that fills your being, bringing bliss in waves.

35 普天共慶

36 Liu Bao Tea

双星号印

1970s Shuang Xing Hao Yin (双星号印 / SSHC Penang) is amongst our favorite Liu Bao teas, mostly because it seems to be easier to find and therefore more accessible than teas like 1950s Fu Hua or LLLL367 (both of which are better). SSHC is red and mellow, billowy and nutty. It has fragrant elements, tasting of Chinese herbs, sometimes sandalwood and, of course, betel nut. It feels rich in the mouth while staying lighter and more clear than puerh teas of a similar vintage. The Qi is strong, bold and vibrant and makes for a deep and lasting session. SSHC is very patient and, we find, often wonderful in the late afternoon or early evening.

37/ Vintage Liu Bao 广西梧州茶厂

Guangxi Wuzhou Tea Factory’s (广西梧州茶厂) famous “VIVE” from the 1980s is a deep and rich Liu Bao, with loamy flavors that taste of autumn forest walks. It has the deeper, wetter and hotter piling of the 1980s, which began due to the influence of shou puerh. It is thicker and richer than earlier Liu Bao vintages, though it lacks their refinement, grace and glory. It is still wonderful, reminding you of camphor and thick, dreamy days. This tea is deep and patient, with a more grounding Qi that relaxes and loosens the moment, descending to the core and bringing the warmth of a bath on a cold day.

38 Shou Puerh & Liu Bao 茶人: Shen Su

As a student of the Leaf who too often mistakes his black tea for shou puerh or vice versa, I would personally love to hear your thoughts on these two very different teas, either via email (globalteahut@ gmail.com) or on our discussion board on the website under the tab “Connect.” I will also be comparing these two teas as my homework throughout this month and sharing my thoughts with you.

s we enter the middle of win- experienced connoisseurs out there, it Differences ter for most of us, we continue might seem unnecessary to even talk to drink darker, older and about this as they are so obviously dif- Good shou puerh should be thick, moreA fermented or roasted teas to keep ferent. But for many of us who are new milky, round in texture, sweet, creamy us warm! Among that honorary group to black or puerh tea, it is well worth and very dark in color. The aroma and of winter-appropriate teas, we are comparing the two because our palates flavor of shou puerh always reminds often compelled towards shou puerh aren’t as accustomed to these genres, me of mulched leaves, or wet decom- and Liu Bao black tea (pronounced and to the uninitiated they do share posing leaves on a forest floor. It’s a “show” and “leo,” respectively). They some similarities. Also, because the very earthy and enjoyable quality in both love to be drunk in the winter! popularity of puerh tea greatly over- my experience. Remember, flavors and When drinking shou puerh and Liu shadows that of black tea, and because aromas are not reliable measures of a Bao, it is clear that they are a lot alike. shou puerh is cheaper and more ac- fine tea because they are so subjective. But they also have characteristic dif- cessible than aged sheng puerh, it’s no What tastes like mulched leaves to me ferences that make them both quite wonder that anytime we find ourselves in shou puerh might taste like some- unique. It will be important to focus drinking a dark, fermented tea, we thing quite different to you. But if it’s on the differences between these two tend to think it is shou puerh. a consistent quality that you notice in teas in order to understand which one Sometimes we mistakenly assume a particular tea, then it can help you we are drinking. we are drinking shou puerh when in to decipher what type of tea you are fact we are drinking Liu Bao. One could also mistake black tea for aged Why These Two Teas sheng puerh, though this is less often the case in my observations. From First of all, in order to learn to taste a production point of view, it also the differences between any teas, you makes more sense to confuse black tea need to drink them! Gongfu tea would with shou puerh because they both be an excellent brewing method to go through similar steps of post-pro- taste these two genres of tea. But, you duction artificial fermentation, which will have to work with what you have lends them both similar profiles. But 熟 got. It can be a little difficult to drink much of what distinguishes these teas a lot of some genres of tea that aren’t is the different terroirs and varietals. particularly available or widely known The environments in which both tea about, like certain black teas. In fact, plants grow are very different and the 普 for some of you, this will be the first tea plants themselves are very different. Liu Bao black tea you have ever drunk, In general, shou puerh is made from which makes it a good chance to famil- large-leaf tea varietals in Yunnan prov- & iarize ourselves with some of the more ince, whereas Liu Bao is made from common qualities associated with this medium-leaf tea varietals in Guangxi type of black tea. province. (There isn’t usually a “medi- Next, why are even looking at the um-leaf” category. There are small and 六 differences between shou puerh and large leaf categories, but the actual size Liu Bao? Does this somehow suggest of leaves used to produce Liu Bao are that they share enough similarities somewhere in between, so we say “me- to warrant a discussion on their dif- dium.”) We must learn to distinguish 堡 ferences? Well, yes and no. For those the different environments in the cup, who grew up drinking black tea, shou and move from there to the subtler dif- puerh and aged sheng puerh, or for the ferences in processing.

39 drinking. Due to its earthiness, I also subjective, but it tends to be generally In general, if you find yourself find shou puerh quite grounding, agreed upon that Liu Bao has a met- drinking a dark, fermented tea, here making it excellent to drink when you al-like quality on the tongue. This is an are some qualities to think about if or your guests need a little balance. important quality to look out for. See you’re not quite sure what tea it is. If it As well, shou tea can be quite warm- if you notice it in this month’s tea. An- has a metallic aftertaste, aromatic hints ing in the body, and never really offers other common flavor associated with of betel nut, or smoked pine with an the opposite experience. Try drinking Liu Bao is the fragrance of betel nut. uplifting Qi that comfortably warms a shou puerh in the midst of summer This is something I am not familiar the body in cooler weather or cools and see what happens. You will likely with at all, but for those of you who the body in warmer temperature, you end up sweating bullets! Though I love are, see if you can also notice it. Liu might very well be drinking Liu Bao the flavor of shou, I don’t drink it in Bao also has an aftertaste of smoked black tea. If your tea is thick and dark, the hotter times of the year for just that pine because pinewood is used in the creamy and sweet, with strong earthy reason. Its warming Qi is not suitable drying process. It is also often earthy flavors and very warming energies, and for hot weather, but it is worth a try like shou, but, as you can see, Liu Bao perhaps has an unfortunate pondy fla- to gain an experiential understanding. has some distinguishing characteristics vor or aroma to it, it’s likely you are Liu Bao tea, on the other hand, can as well. drinking a shou puerh. As you can see, be both warming and cooling. This is If you can, drink them side by side they really are very different teas and one of the amazing qualities of some or one after the other to really high- we should learn to refine our palates to black teas. I more often drink them in light these differences. We did just that distinguish between them. the cooler months of the year, but they for one of our tea classes here at the These are very broad guidelines to can be very enjoyable even in the sum- center and shared a group discussion learning the difference between shou mer under the right conditions. In the afterwards. We drank a shou followed puerh and Liu Bao. Within each genre winter, however, shou is almost always by a Liu Bao and there was a lot of and each type of tea lies a completely more warming than Liu Bao in my agreement in our observations. The unique experience and so it’s difficult experience. And while they are both shou was more earthy, thick, sweet, to generalize. There is a vast variety quite dark teas, I find shou is usually warming and grounding, whereas the of flavors, aromas and mouth sensa- slightly darker in the liquor and in the Liu Bao was lighter, rising, “piney” tions for shou and Liu Bao tea. Plus, spent leaves. Not always, but often. with a metallic aftertaste, and with the brewing method, amount of leaf, In comparison to shou, Liu Bao also more noticeable mouth sensations length of infusion, type and tempera- tends to be lighter in body and texture, like splash, coating, saliva production, ture of water, etc., can change every- with a more rising or uplifting quality. hui gan, etc. (The Liu Bao was finer in thing! But here are some criteria that One very unique characteristic often this case, but could go the other way we can work with to start learning how found in Liu Bao is a metallic after- depending on the tea. Many shou to differentiate these wonderful teas. taste. True, it is a flavor, and therefore puerhs are great as well.) Let us know how your journey steeps!

40 New Ways to Learn Tea Introducing Global Tea Hut Expansion Packs

We’ve developed a new and exciting way to expand your tea education. If this trial run works and you find these expansions fulfiilling, we plan to offer three or four of them a year. Each will come with two or more teas that expand upon the topics we are covering in that issue, allowing you to taste different, rarer and sometimes higher-quality examples in order to learn more about various genres of tea.

ll of the teas that we share in go deeper into the rarer genres we more topic-focused and allow those of Global Tea Hut are partially cover, how to get more of a particular you who rarely (if ever) visit Asia to feel or completely donated. Over Global Tea Hut tea and other ques- more included in the subjects that we theA years, we have shared simple, clean tions concerning furthering your tea are discussing here by tasting a greater teas that remind us to celebrate all the education by drinking more and dif- array of examples than just the one or simple moments of our lives, as well ferent examples of the many kinds of two pots of tea we’re sending you each as bright and transcendent examples tea we talk about in these magazines. month. Well, now we’ve come up with of rare and unique teas that epitomize The difficulty is that we aren’t tea mer- an idea worth trying. their genres. Due to the generosity of chants, we are a tea school. And we Introducing the Global Tea Hut Chajin who understand our mission, don’t have a lot of experience buying Expansion Packs. Every few months, we’ve been able to drink rare aged tea online, so we don’t know where to we plan to offer a limited number of puerhs and uniquely crafted or roasted send you. Also, in our commitment to expansions to the topic we are cover- oolongs that were way beyond the stay ad-free and not endorse any one ing in detail any given month. If this budget of this project. But there will tea brand, merchant or shop, we pre- works, and you enjoy having these ex- always be a much greater variety of tea fer to abstain from recommending any pansions, we may offer them three or than we could ever send you, both in given tea merchant, even if they are a maybe four times a year depending on kind and quality. Some teas are too rare friend or supporter of our Center. We time and availability. The idea is that to get in the amounts we would need have consequently been thinking of when we can, we’ll release a limited to send with our magazine and others ways to expand your experience in tea edition expansion to the topic covered are just too expensive for our friends in a clean and upright way that will in that month’s magazine, affording to donate, no matter how strongly they help you to get to know various genres you the chance to drink at least a cou- support our message. And yet, a large better. The Light Meets Life fundrais- ple more examples of the type of tea part of the motivation for including ers we have done, creating very small we are discussing. Often, these extras tea with this magazine is that the edu- batches of puerh and dian hong as well will be rarer and/or important to your cation in tea we are providing isn’t just as a small amount of cool teaware, have journey exploring that kind of tea. intellectual, but experiential. Drinking not only raised a nice amount of mon- This will be our first, trial run of this twelve unique teas together every year ey towards the construction of our fu- idea to see whether or not you enjoy is more than half of what Global Tea ture Center, but have also helped many it and feel that it really does improve Hut is about! And now, it will be about of you taste unique teas you wouldn’t your tea education, helping us explore more. have otherwise discovered. Howev- and grow together month to month. If Many of you have been emailing er, we wanted a way to grow your tea it does, we will do three or four such us over the years asking for a way to experience and wisdom that would be expansions next year as well.

41 特別加長版

www.globalteahut.org/expansions

Each expansion pack will be exclu- will have to research historical records, you to taste the changes in process- sively for Global Tea Hut members talk to old-timers and drink the dif- ing over time that we have discussed and only available by contacting us. ferent vintages yourself. Some of you in these pages, since the piling meth- We will keep the expansions transpar- who have been around here for a while ods changed in the 1980s. Both were ent, letting you know our cost for the will remember the other two Liu Bao stored in Malaysia until now. tea, shipping and how much we think teas we have sent out (a year 2000 Liu Our cost for these two teas, includ- is a fair minimum donation. As with Bao and Old Grove, which was from ing shipping to Taiwan and packaging, all our work, you will be able to choose 2008), but for some of you this will is just under $40. For this first exper- the amount you donate based on the be your first exposure to Liu Bao (and imental foray into offering expansion cost of the tea and the minimum sug- maybe even black tea as a genre). For packs, we only produced fifty sets and gested donation, which will not be our first expansion pack, we wanted to we are going to ask for a suggested much more than what we have paid. offer you the opportunity to try two minimum donation of $50 plus ship- The expansion packs will be limited, older, rarer vintages of Liu Bao, in the ping, which Shen thinks will be $15 or and distributed on a first-come-first- hopes that they would help you further less to most places in the world. You serve basis. If we find that demand for understand the articles in this issue, as can donate anything you want above them is high, and that they are really well as develop a greater appreciation that. All proceeds will support our free helping you to explore different teas for this wonderful genre of tea. So, Center. and learn more, then we will try to here’s this month’s expansion pack: make more next time. Liu Bao is a very rich genre of tea, • 20 grams of 1970s SSHC Register for yours by emailing: with a lot for one to learn. One of the Liu Bao (Shuang Xing Hao [email protected] reasons we have included so many arti- Yin, 双星号印) cles on the history of this magical tea is that Liu Bao is an aged tea, like puerh, • 20 grams of 1980s Eight Di- We will also have a page on our site so its history has much more bearing rections Liu Bao (Ba Zhong with information on how many ex- on the genre, since we often find our- Liu Bao, 八中六堡) pansion packs are left and a discussion selves drinking teas that were processed board so that those who do choose to very differently than farmers do today. These two teas are wonderful exam- participate can discuss what they have In other words, a trip to Liu Bao is ples of vintage Liu Bao and amongst learned together. not necessarily going to help you un- the best you can find without getting derstand how the aged Liu Bao you into the older and much more ex- are drinking was made. For that, you pensive baskets. They also will allow

42 Liu Bao Tea 六 Tracing the History of 堡 Liu Bao Tea 茶人: He Zhiqiang/陳淦邦 (Donated by Wushing) 茶 Looking into future issues about Liu Bao, with a goal of mov- 歷 ing deeper and deeper into the topic, including planning some trips there ourselves to cover spring processing, we thought it 史 best to inclue as many articles as possible on the history and production of Liu Bao through time in this issue, exhausting 軌 all the different perspectives and accounts of the history of Liu Bao. Having learned about the history and processing meth- 跡 ods from many angles, we’ll be ready to travel there together next time. This article is one of our favorite summaries.

iu Bao tea is renowned both not change even when left overnight; public, Liu Bao Village was producing in China and abroad for its the color and fragrance are excellent.” bamboo, wood, and charcoal in addi- rich history. It got its name During the reign of the Qing Emper- tion to tea, and trade was flourishing. Lfrom the place it was originally pro- or Jiaqing (1796–1820), Liu Bao was Guangdong tea merchants set up on duced: Liu Bao Village (六堡鎮) in classified as one of China’s 24 famous Liu Bao Village’s Hekou Street to pur- Cangwu County, in the Wuzhou City teas of that period, owing to its unique chase Liu Bao maocha—unprocessed area of Guangxi province (“Liu Bao” betel nut aroma. The following record tea leaves—and then steam them in means “Six Castles” or “Six Forts”). appears in the Guangxi Tongzhi, a geo- baskets to compress the tea. They used The mountainous region of Liu Bao is graphical reference book: “The pro- small boats to transport the tea leaves located near the Tropic of Cancer and duction of Liu Bao tea is flourishing from the dock at Hekou to Cangwu has a unique natural environment with in Cangwu, especially the Six Castles County’s Li port, then packed them strong sunlight—wild tea plants have (Liu Bao) and Five Castles (Wu Bao) onto large wooden galleys to Fengkai grown there for a very long time and teas from Duoxian Village. Liu Bao tea County. From there the tea was taken were recognized and used by the early is particularly famous, and is selling in on motorboats along the Xijiang River inhabitants of the region. A well-known great quantities at ports in Guangzhou, to Guangzhou, and finally exported to tea expert from mainland China, Fujian, Hong Kong, and Macau.” Liu places like Hong Kong or Kuala Lum- the late Professor Zhuang Wanfang Bao tea was traditionally compressed pur. This route became known as the (莊晚芳), has determined that the into tea bricks using bamboo baskets, “Ancient Tea-Boat Road.” history of Liu Bao tea production can and the most highly regarded teas After 1951, when large-scale land be traced back more than 1500 years, were produced in Gongzhou Village reforms came along, farmers found based on studies of historical texts and Heishi Village within the Liu Bao themselves in possession of land. At including the Tong Jun Records from township. this time, many farmers started plant- the Northern and Southern Dynasties. There’s a poem by famous scholar ing tea bushes again, and the area of Born in the embrace of Liu Bao Vil- Cheng Yuandao (程遠道) from the the tea plantations grew rapidly. By lage’s beautiful mountains and rivers late Qing Dynasty that goes: “The 1953, Wuzhou had more than ten and destined to become prized around mountains are piled high with Liu Bao privately-owned tea enterprises, large the world, Liu Bao tea was created tea; it regulates digestion wonderfully. and small, with Liu Bao tea as their through a union of nature and human Drink a cup tonight while entertaining main product. For a long time these culture. a lord; tomorrow the scent will linger were mostly family-run tea processing The Cangwu County Records, pub- on your teeth and cheeks.” In the past, workshops, which limited the growth lished in 1697, the 36th year of the since land transportation routes were of the Liu Bao tea industry. In 1954, Qing Emperor Kangxi’s reign, con- not yet very developed, Liu Bao tea the state began rapidly expanding the tain the following excerpt: “The Liu had to be transported to Guangzhou tea production industry and started to Bao tea produced in Duoxian Village via waterways. During the late Qing prohibit privately-owned tea business- in Cangwu has a rich flavor that does Dynasty and the early years of the Re- es from purchasing the raw tea leaves.

43 Qing Dynasty Liu Bao Production.

The state began to regulate the grade The finished Liu Bao tea is divid- In 2009, the Wuzhou municipal and sale price of the tea leaves and the ed into grades from one to five. The committee and city government pub- Supply and Marketing Department required qualities for a first-grade Liu lished a document entitled Decisions on was in charge of purchasing the raw Bao tea are as follows: the tea leaves promoting the industrial development of maocha, which was all shipped to the should be tightly twisted and of even Liu Bao tea production, which marked Wuzhou Tea Factory for final pro- size and shape, of a blackish-brown the beginning of a favorable period of cessing. So it was that the production color with a glossy appearance. The rapid development for the industry. methods of Liu Bao tea in Wuzhou flavor of the tea should be mellow and The consumer market expanded from shifted from the traditional hand-pro- rich with a betel nut taste, the liquor the original two provinces of Guang- cessing that had been the norm for a bright red, and the brewed leaves ten- dong and Guangxi to include more long time to large-scale industrialized der and evenly sized. than ten provinces, cities and regions production. In recent years, Chinese black teas throughout China, including major The characteristic steps in tradi- (as distinct from red teas) have become cities such as Beijing, Shanghai, Wu- tional Liu Bao tea production are popular throughout the world and are han, and Xi’an. Both Liu Bao tea and “heaping” (a process known as wodui, increasingly sold overseas. Liu Bao tea some travel destinations connected 渥堆, which involves fermenting in has earned the esteem of many a tea to Liu Bao production were selected moist piles), compression by steam- lover thanks to its health benefits and as part of Wuzhou City’s “Top ten ing, and aging—the longer the tea is distinctive character. The well-known fine foods and beautiful landscapes,” aged, the better the quality. Liu Bao is general director of the Guangxi Tea and the Wuzhou Tea Factory’s “Three widely described using a well-known Institute, Mr. Liang Yongliang (梁永 Cranes” trademark was officially rec- set of words: “red, rich, pure and mel- 良), compares Liu Bao tea to “black ognized as one of Guangxi’s famous low” (hong, nong, chen, hou—紅, 濃, gold, with many health benefits.” The trademarks. This treasured black tea 陳, 醇). The traditional manufacturing people of Wuzhou have a particularly from Guangxi has traveled a long path process consists of the following steps: high regard for aged Liu Bao, and have throughout history’s many seasons, expressed their admiration with this and it seems Liu Bao tea is now wel- raw leaves → sifting to sep- verse: “When it touches your mouth coming a flourishing spring! arate → heaping → initial you’ll have worries no more; when it steaming → steaming in lands in your stomach your spirit will piles → breaking up the piles soar.” With the enthusiastic support of both the Guangxi Autonomous → spreading out the leaves Region and the Wuzhou City govern- to cool → second steaming ments, the Liu Bao tea industry devel- → packing into bamboo bas- oped quite rapidly, and this ancient tea kets → aging in storage once again began to glow with youth- ful vigor.

44 Liu Bao Tea One Hundred Baskets 一 A Century of Liu Bao Tea 百茶人: Luo Yingyin/羅英銀 (Donated by Wushing) Our final article in this Liu Bao series is a larger, wide- angle perspective of the last hundred years of Liu Bao 竹 history, covering Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore and Malaysia as well. Having passed through the legends and myths, the connection with past and present Malaysian 簍 Chinese culture, Liu Bao processing (modern and past) it is good to wrap it all up by taking a step back and looking at the past century with an eagle’s-eye overview of everything we’ve learned so far.

mall bamboo rafts carried Liu In the past, it was the great south- it is often sold as “aged Liu Bao” or Bao tea down the winding Liu west’s most convenient export route. “disregarding years,” which shows the S Bao River from tea-growing In 1897, Imperial Japan forced Wu- excellent quality of this tea. In terms areas including Buyi, Siliu, Tangping, zhou to become a treaty trading port, of quality and trademark, “aged” or Lichong, Wutong, and Gaojian. The and tea became a significant resource “old” are always used to emphasize tea traveled along the Xijiang River in their economic plunder. This is an- this characteristic of Liu Bao tea. This system and finally arrived in Guang- other factor that greatly contributed factor has also contributed to the em- zhou for collection and distribution. to Liu Bao’s status as the tea with the phasis on fermentation in Liu Bao tea From there, it was carried to homes highest volume of exports to overseas production. of overseas Chinese throughout the Chinese. The earliest detailed written record world. Wuzhou Liu Bao tea was primarily of Liu Bao tea production techniques Liu Bao tea is a post-fermentation shipped along the Xijiang River for sale is found in Tea Collection and Produc- black tea. In Chinese medical terms, it abroad. Consequently, it is also known tion Methods, published in June 1957 is said to effectively remove heat, dis- as “Expatriate Tea.” As far back as the by the Guangxi province Supply and pel dampness, and detoxify the body. Qing Dynasty Jiaqing period (1796 Marketing Cooperative. It states: “Liu These features made it an essential item –1820), Liu Bao tea farmers shipped Bao tea originated in Liu Bao town- carried by Chinese emigrants as they their tea out of the mountainous grow- ship, Cangwu county. Its production left their hometowns. Early overseas ing areas on bamboo rafts to Guang- craft is relatively unique. Neither black Chinese in Southeast Asia drank Liu zhou. There, it was put onto boats and tea nor green tea, it is unique to this Bao tea to relieve dysentery and cool shipped throughout the world. Re- province, and so it is named Liu Bao the body. It is also said that when their cords indicate that Liu Bao tea exports tea after the production area. Its fer- children suffered from diarrhea, they from Wuzhou exceeded 1100 tons in mentation process sets it apart. Fol- would place Liu Bao tea and spring 1935. Consequently, Liu Bao tea has lowing heating (sha qing) and rolling water in an earthen pot and bring also been called Xijiang River basin (rou nian), it undergoes post-fermen- it to a boil over a high flame. Once “Boat Merchant Tea.” tation in piles for several hours before cooled slightly, they added a moderate being dried.” This text clearly specifies amount of winter honey. When con- that the production technique involves sumed, it provided instant benefit. Liu Bao Tea Caused the post-fermentation in piles. Aside from the above health factors, According to Zou Jiaju’s Yunnan Liu Bao tea also greatly benefited from Development of Ripe Puerh Ripe Tea, prior to 1948, only pressed the portside location of its tea produc- Yunnan tea was shipped to Hong tion area, which facilitated immediate The quality and flavor of Liu Bao Kong. During the early 1950s, most export. Wuzhou is one of the starting tea is uniquely characterized as red, Yunnan tea shipped to Hong Kong points of China’s maritime Silk Road. rich, mellow, and pure. In addition, changed to packages of loose leaf tea.

Liu Bao Tea That period happens to coincide with is then added to the tea until it reach- rienced brisk sales. Other factors con- the communist revolution, when the es a suitable level of wetness. It is then tributed to the rapid development in popularity of loose leaf Liu Bao tea pile-fermented for seven to ten days to Liu Bao tea, including low shipping packed in bamboo baskets peaked in supplement deficiencies in the initial costs and stable governments in major Guangdong, Hong Kong, Macau, and fermentation. In traditional produc- buying areas including Hong Kong, Southeast Asia. Hong Kong tea sellers tion techniques, however, steamed tea Macau, Singapore, and Malaysia. In were inspired by the mellow fragrance was stored in piles for 20 to 30 days. addition to Liu Bao, large growing ar- of Liu Bao that resulted from pile stor- The primary function of the wet fer- eas sprang up in neighboring regions age. Based on market demand, they mentation is to accelerate changes to and production volumes increased. began to experiment with processing internal substances in the tea, thereby At the height of Liu Bao tea, tea methods using humid environments causing materials such as theaflavins farmers brought their initially pro- such as cellars and warehouses to ac- and thearubigins to increase. The col- cessed tea to Hekou Street. During the celerate the post-fermentation of Liu or and fragrance of the tea increases, tea harvest, this street was filled with Bao and puerh tea. The market con- which gives Liu Bao tea its character- the sound of trading. To this day Liu tinued to change, and, by the late istic style. Bao town still contains a tea collec- 1950s, this type of “flood tea” gradu- The Liu Bao tea produced in Wu- tion place, which provides a glimpse of ally came to dominate Hong Kong tea zhou is distinguished by another im- the spectacle of those days. According houses. Consumers widely appreciated portant feature—namely, its aging to local elders, many tea companies the mellow fragrance, red liquor, and process is unlike that of other teas. were established in those years. Large brown base of this ripe tea. After fermentation, Liu Bao tea is gen- tea companies from all over set up Due to the above factors, the Native erally stored in air raid shelters to age. branches in Liu Bao. These included Produce & Animal Byproducts Import The temperature, humidity, and mi- famous tea companies such as Yingji, & Export Company (CNNP), Yunnan croorganisms are extremely beneficial Branch initiated experimentation into in aging the tea. The tea is stored in post-fermentation of tea for export. this environment for two to three years It is said that Wuzhou tea factories before being sold. This relatively long still employ staff who were sent from aging process is another characteristic Yunnan to learn post-fermentation of Liu Bao tea, which distinguishes it techniques for ripe puerh production. from the brief aging process of other As the culmination of this study and types of Black Tea. investigation, CNNP Yunnan success- Another unique aspect of the ag- fully produced ripe puerh tea in 1973. ing process contributes to the special mellow purity of Liu Bao tea. This is due to the fact that early Liu Bao tea Traditional Liu Bao Tea: was transported by water, which further helped to shape the character of 永 Red, Rich, Mellow & Pure the tea. The tea was shipped along the Liu Bao tea is primarily produced Liu Bao River on bamboo rafts, which for export to overseas Chinese. It seems unintentionally helped contribute to likely that Liu Bao production tech- its unique quality. The damp environ- niques were gradually perfected over a ment on the river with water constant- long time based on the requirements ly splashing onto the bamboo baskets, 遠 of Cantonese or Hong Kong tea mer- combined with the hot sun, caused the chants. tea to continuously ferment and age. The “corner pile fermentation” per- This shipping process further contrib- formed following firing and rolling uted to the mellow fragrance of the tea. is also known as “wet pile fermentation.” This procedure is crucial to the unique quality of Liu Bao tea. Its goal One Hundred Years of the 無 is to hasten the transformation of the Rise and Fall of Liu Bao Tea tea’s internal substances through the warmth and humidity of the wet pile Today, it is still not clearly known process, thereby reducing bitterness when Liu Bao began to grow and pro- and causing the flavor to become pure duce tea. However, historical records and mild. indicate that Liu Bao tea was listed The unique character of Liu Bao among the 24 great teas during the 價 tea is then catalyzed through the care- Qing dynasty Jiaqing period (1796– ful “cold fermentation” procedure (as 1820). opposed to the thermal fermentation Before World War II, Liu Bao tea earlier on). The processed tea material was praised by Chinese in Hong Kong, is first dried over a pine fire. Moisture Macau, and Southeast Asia and expe-

47/ One Hundred Baskets: A Century of Liu Bao Tea Wanshen, Guangyuantai, Xieji, Tians- between Liu Bao and Guangdong tea processing is easier than that of Liu hunxiang and Shenchang. opened in 1957, which also helped ac- Bao tea, however, causing tea farm- Major Hong Kong tea companies celerate growth of Liu Bao tea. ers to switch to green tea production. successively moved into Liu Bao and This period of prosperity during This severely damaged the tradition- began buying tea. Of these, Guangyu- the 1950s did not last long. In 1958, al post-fermentation craft of Liu Bao antai is the most famous. At the time, communes were formed and the Three tea. An even more significant factor, the same trademarks were printed on Red Banners (General Line for Social- however, came from the communal or the bamboo baskets used to ship the ist Construction, Great Leap Forward, collective tea farms and factories. Tea tea and on the pillars outside the build- and People’s Communes) were initiat- farmers no longer approached their ings of the large tea companies. ed. The Liu Bao tea industry, having work with the dynamism of the past. Liu Bao tea’s long period of pros- just emerged from the darkness, was Tea plantation management, produc- perity came to an end in 1937 when once again pushed into a period of un- tion, and quality gradually fell. Local Japan invaded China, and Guangzhou certainty. The Great Leap Forward was elders recount with sadness that the fell into enemy hands. During the ten carried out on a grand scale for approx- traditional “age” and “red” of Liu Bao years of great decline between 1937 imately three years. It gradually came tea had changed. Traditional tech- and 1949, many of the tea companies to an end in late 1960, but Liu Bao tea niques were lost, and Liu Bao tea grad- stopped production or went bankrupt. production was greatly reduced. ually disappeared from the Hong Kong A resurgence in the production of Liu Another significant factor contrib- and Macau markets. Bao tea occurred after the revolution uted to the decline of Liu Bao tea. At in 1951. Land reform returned land to the time, purchase prices for Liu Bao farmers, and tea production was great- tea were low—often lower than those ly expanded. In addition, the highway of green tea of the same grade. Green Voices from the Hut 夕 Setting Sun Tea Hut Under the Moon 陽茶人: Ben Youngbaer

茶 When you hear about a Global Tea Hut member setting out to build his own tea hut in America, you feel moved to visit such spaces and eventually make your own tea space a bit nicer. Ben’s story is inspiring. It’s one of the best we’ve shared 亭 in this magazine, as it shows that the more you put into your tea practice, the more it changes you and those around you. If the world had the heart of Ben, and a few more tea huts, it would be a merrier place, indeed!

ast fall, I embarked on a proj- Over the many months since the had Moonlight White first. Sometimes ect with my dad that has forged opening, I have had small gatherings the water was just under boiling and a new chapter in my tea life. mostly involving Japanese tea ceremo- the tea brewed a rich amber color, and LOnce a flutter of a grand idea and ny (chanoyu). I prepare the charcoal other steepings the water had cooled before long an attainable reality: my and the tools needed for the ceremo- as the coals died down and the liquor own tea hut. Named “Setting Sun Tea ny. Even in the coldest moments (this moved to a more yellow tint. Cup af- Hut” because it faces west where the winter was rather mild), a bowl of matter cup, we sipped in relative silence, sun sets over the glorious green moun- cha will warm and sooth the soul. This the sun creeping through the door tains, and also because we are on the month I had an open (tea) house where and casting rays over the chaxi on the opposite side of the Earth from “the I offered a spring chanoyu, switching center of the tatami mats. I passed the land of the rising sun” so I thought it from the sunken hearth to the stand- magazine around so we could read to be quite fitting, since it is modeled ing brazier and also sharing April’s tea about the tea as we were drinking. An- after Japanese tea huts. of the month—Moonlight White. other Global Tea Hut member, Julia, My dad and I cut some cedar posts I first encountered this tea on my said she hadn’t tasted the tea yet so she from our woods to serve as the corner trip to China in 2012. We heard the could taste with us in the hut. Thanks posts as well as the rafters. Our con- legend of the moonlight drying and Julia! I’m glad you had the willpower struction began the next day and last- accepted it to the same extent we ac- to wait to share with us! ed only about ten full work days before cept Bodhidharma ripping off his eye- As much as I enjoy drinking the the last shingle was placed. Not only lids and tea trees growing up as a result. tea every month, it always tastes better does this hut allow for a space dedicat- When a tea is good, it almost doesn’t when I share it with others. For one, ed to tea, it also gives me the opportu- matter the legend or flowery language it allows for shared experience, and nity to share tea with friends, family, used to sell it. Often we recognize a for that reason I put up a scroll in the neighbors and strangers alike. To mark good tea as being easy to brew as well tokonoma (alcove). It reads: “Ichi-go the completion of the Hut (although as being durable and suitable for long Ichi-e (One encounter, one chance).” not fully complete), I had an opening tea sessions. This tea of the month cer- The tea hut feels complete when the on October 3rd of last year with many tainly fits the bill of a quality tea that is coals are glowing, the kettle humming past, present and future Global Tea easy to enjoy. and the aromas of tea and incense Hut members—many of us in Ver- Throughout my event, people came filling the room. With guests or even mont, but also some tea friends from and went at various times; some had if it’s just me (or sometimes my cat), New York and New Jersey. matcha when they arrived and some the purpose of the space is fulfilled

Voices From the Hut when tea is flowing. Every time I sit in not necessary for tea enjoyment but a feels more in control, your tea life will the hut for tea, a new experience and great bonus for sure. I will say that if thrive, and things will come more nat- memory is created. I don’t need to have you have the time, money and room to urally. I hope next time we have tea to- the scroll hanging for this to be true it create a space for yourself that is purely gether, we can share this life and create only serves as a reminder not to take for tea, you should do so. This will not new experiences! the moment for granted. only help to cultivate the spirit of Tea Even though I have a tea hut, a within you, but also help to focus your space dedicated for tea, I still drink life by giving your other pursuits room tea in my house quite often. So it is to breathe. When the rest of your life

I will say that if you have the time, money and room to create a space for yourself that is purely for tea, you should do so. This will not only help to cultivate the spirit of Tea within “ you, but also help to focus your life by giving your other pursuits room to breathe. ”

51/ Setting Sun Tea Hut Under the Moon

TeaWayfarer Each month, we introduce one of the Global Tea Hut members to you in these issues in order to help you get to know more people in this growing international community. It’s also to pay homage to the many manifestations that all this wonderful spirit and Tea are becoming as the Tea is drunk and becomes human. The energy of Tea fuels some great work in this world, and we are so honored to share glimpses of such beautiful people and their Tea. This month, we would like to introduce Kevin Hartwell.

n 2008, in an old-growth forest on the remote mid- coast of British Columbia, Canada, I was working as a I fish technician for a forestry company when I had an awakening to follow a path in the healing arts. My super- visor asked that I help hang “falling boundary” ribbons around 1000-year-old cedar trees. While standing next to one of the giant cedars, a sudden realization went straight to the core of my Being and I knew I needed to do two things with my life: to help and to heal. A short while later, through a Native American sweat lodge ceremony, I was introduced to a lifelong friend, rei- ki teacher and shaman, along with a 180-degree change in employment—working with the handicapped. Next came my introduction to Lao Tzu’s water tradition of energy arts and tea soon followed. However, I had no idea that people had been using tea to support meditation and other cultivation arts like Taiji and Qigong for thousands of years; I just knew I liked it. Over several years I’ve learned Daoist meditation methods, which have been beneficial and very practical. But even so, I have never felt personally that I was able to embody the deeper aspects and techniques that are known to “thin the veil,” as it were. Saying that, I’ve never had a live meditation teacher to transmit those teachings to me, which may not be essential, but is no doubt ideal. Furthermore, hearing/reading about people’s experiences with different plant medicines was inspiring, but I lacked my own personal con- 茶人: nection to any of them. At first, the very idea of a plant as a Kevin Hartwell teacher just didn’t feel right—until Tea, of course. About a year ago, I came across our Global Tea Hut is still with you. Since drinking tea this way regularly, I’ve brother Po Rosenberg’s interview in a Daoist magazine and noticed a shift that I can confidently accredit to tea, caus- what I read resonated very deeply. This summer, I found ing an overall, consistent, lasting and fundamental change myself on the road to the Oregon coast to visit him. My in my awareness and my feeling of being connected with experience there left me feeling like I had just drunk tea for everything. the first time. It opened me up in so many ways, probably Tea truly does bring people together. I’ve recently began most profoundly to the fact that tea heals on all levels. serving tea in my house weekly and found not only that I Whenever I drink tea on the go, at work or in the car have met new friends, but that the connections I’ve made or casually or while writing this, of course, it is good. It are more meaningful and with a substance and depth that I has a way of doing what it does for me in the moment. But find rare in casual interactions. By sharing tea and teaching I’ve noticed a stark contrast when I sit with the intention Qigong with my community here in Kimberley, BC and of connecting with Tea or make offerings to Tea Herself, eventually doing so in natural settings as well, I will be as- and welcome Her healing wisdom into my mind, body, and sisting in bringing people closer to their nature. I hope to spirit. She works much more deeply when I show up with thereby fulfill my mission “to help and to heal.” the right intention. Getting up at 5am to meditate is not I am so grateful to all my teachers and friends past, pres- only easier with tea but I look forward to it! Using good ent and future, to the Global Tea Hut community for shar- clean tea in self-cultivation, especially while out in Nature, ing so much tea wisdom and fellowship with me throughout is my passion. my tea journey, and, of course, to Tea for all the changes She Another realization for me is how tea “drops you into brought to my life. If you find yourself in British Columbia the Dao” while drinking it. And afterwards, Her wisdom let’s share some tea! I am always happy to meet tea lovers.

53 TeaWayfarer Inside the Hut Because of the large number of tea sessions happening around the world, we are going to post about them on our website from now on and use this section to discuss news happening around the world. If you have any news, like a wedding, birth or tea happening, let us know and we’ll write about it here. Our new app (coming soon) will connect you to each other and tea sessions around the world! Stay tea-tuned for community news.

The 2016 Light Meets Life Fundraiser is selling Wu De will be in Bali in late January with a out fast, with one tea already gone. We have two amaz- stop in New Zealand to serve tea at the Wanderlust ing old-growth sheng teas this year, a Five Element Festival. Then Wu De and Sam will be traveling in New shou, an amazing dian hong from Big Snow Mt. and Zealand and Australia some time in March. Check the another surprise as well! website for details.

We have a new page for Wu De’s teaching events We have a goal to reach two thousand mem- around the world. Many of you are always asking for bers. We have 10,000 Instagram followers and 5,000 updates, so we thought it was about time to share them: Facebook likes, so it is possible. The world needs a free http://www.globalteahut.org/wudeteachings. tea center for education: classes and courses taught in the spirit of tea, hospitality, love and self-cultivation. We envision a future in which every December enevelope comes with a catalogue of the next year’s We have started broadcasting live videos at the courses on a variety of tea topics... beginning of every month on our Facebook page. This is a great way to connect with us, learn together and ask any and all questions. Check it out!

We are now offering free Light Meets Life cakes Center News to authors whose submissions are accepted in Global Before you visit, check out the Center’s Tea Hut. Let us know if you are interested in future top- website (www.teasagehut.org) to read about the ics or if you have a great idea for a tea-related article schedule, food, what you should bring, etc. Wu and we’d be happy to take a look at your work. will be traveling a lot in 2017, so check his schedule on the site if you are interested in seeing him while you are here at the Center. Don’t forget that we have a tremendous amount of supplementary material online: articles in Further We are looking for help with farming, pho- Readings, blog posts from the community, and past is- tography, video and web design. If any of you sues of this magazine as well as a ton of videos on many have experience in these things and are inter- subjects that we have covered over the years of sharing ested in staying at the Center to learn Cha Dao, tea wisdom. with free room and board, contact us!

It is now winter time, which means Fridays are hot spring days at the Center. Every Friday December Affirmation morning, we steep some shou tea and head to the I am cheerful. nearby hot springs for a winter tradition of a few hours of soaking. (If you were looking for an ex- The holidays are a chance to celebrate all my cuse to visit in the winter, you got it!) friends and loved ones, even when challenged. (Especially then!) Can I help to bring heartfelt We are thinking of hosting some ten-day cheer, celebration and love to any gathering? Can tea courses at the Center in 2017. Let us know if I show up more, rather than less, when challenged? you are interested in attending. 茶知己

www.globalteahut.org GL BAL TEA HUT Tea & Tao Magazine The friendliest Tea magazine in the world! Sharing rare organic teas, a magazine full of tea history, lore, translations, processing techniques and heritage, as well as the spiritual aspects of Cha Dao. And through it all, we make friends with fellow tea lovers from around the world.