Amsterdam Must Eat Amsterdam

MUST EAT AMSTERDAM MUST EAT AMSTERDAM

AN ECLECTIC SELECTION OF CULINARY LOCATIONS

LUC HOORNAERT PHOTOGRAPHY: KRIS VLEGELS CONTENTS

€: UNDER € 12,5 • €€: € 12,5 - 25 • €€€: € 25 - 40 • €€€€: OVER € 40 Average price for a regular main dish and a drink.

La Perla - €€ 78 Breda - €€€ 82 West NOORDELIJKE IJ-OEVER North Proeflokaal A. Van Wees- €€ 86

WESTERPARK JORDAAN HISTORISCH CENTRUM Fromagerie Abraham Kef - €€ 90 Centre OOSTELIJKE EILANDEN OUD WEST SPIEGELKWARTIER Balthazar’s Keuken - €€ 94 INDISCHE BUURT

OOSTERPARKBUURT OUD ZUID DE PIJP Beulings - €€€€ 98 DE PLANTAGE SCHINKELBUURT East WATERGRAAFSMEER Librije's zusje - €€€€ 102 South Patisserie Holtkamp - € 106 BUITEN VELDERT RIVIERENBUURT Steakhouse Piet de Leeuw - €€€ 110 Guts&Glory - €€€€ 114 ZUID-OOST Rijks - €€€ 118 De Japanner - €€ 122 Samhoud Places - €€€€ 126 CENTRE - 6 Geisha - €€€€ 126 Sea Palace - €€ 6 Papabubble - € 126 Mae Somjaj - € 10 New King - €€ 126 Gebroeders Hartering - €€€€ 14 Bridges - €€€€ 126 Vermeer - €€€€ 18 The White Room - €€€€ 126 Taka Japanese Kitchen - € 22 Gandhi - €€ 127 Bord'eau - €€€€ 26 Pressroom - €€€ 127 Ton Ton Club - € 30 Jordino - € 127 Anna - €€€ 34 Shah Jahan - €€ 127 Kaagman en Kortekaas - €€€ 38 Envy - €€€€ 127 Gartine - €€ 42 Rosie's - €€€ 127 Bak - €€€€ 46 Portugalia - €€ 127 Marius - €€€ 50 Mashua - €€€ 127 CONTENTS 4 Worst - €€ 54 Het Buffet van Odette - €€ 127 Spingaren - €€ 58 Sushisamba Amsterdam - €€€€ 127 De Klepel - €€€ 62 Le Bouchon du Centre - €€€ 127 Toscanini - €€€ 66 Auberge Jean & Marie - €€€ 127 Daalder - €€€ 70 Reurings - €€€ 127 Bordewijk - €€€€ 74 Zaagmolen - €€€ 127 NORTH - 130 De Pasteibakkerij - €€ 218 Vuurtoreneiland - €€€€ 130 Gastrobar Indonesia - €€€ 222 FC Hyena - €€ 134 Tunes Restaurant & Hangar - €€ 138 Bar by Schilo - €€€€ 227 Hotel de Goudfazant - €€€ 142 Chang-I - €€€€ 227 The Beef Chief - € 146 En Pluche - €€€ 227 Restaurant Coba Taqueria - €€ 151 Le Garage - €€€€ 227 Stork - €€€€ 151 The Fat Dog - €€ 227 Café Modern - €€€ 151 Albina - €€ 227 The Butcher - € 227 EAST - 152 Sir Hummus - € 227 Pension Homeland - €€€ 152 Umeno - €€€ 227 Mama Makan - €€€ 156 The Roast Room - €€€€ 227 Mediamatic ETEN - €€ 160 Hakata Senpachi - €€€ 227 Rijsel - €€€ 164 Halvemaan - €€€€ 227 Antep Sofrasi - €€ 168 Khan - €€ 227 Merkelbach - €€€ 172 Tjin's - €€€€ 227 Scheepskameel - €€€ 177 The Brunchroom - €€ 177 WEST - 228 Wilde Zwijnen - €€€€ 177 Brandt&Levie - € 228 Jacobsz - €€ 177 MOS - €€€ 232 La Vallade - €€€ 177 Foodhallen - €€€ 236 De Kas - €€€ 177 Beyrouth - €€ 240 De Lobby Fizeaustraat - €€€ 177 De School/Restaurant DS - €€€ 244 Partisan - €€€ 248 SOUTH - 178 Pendergast - €€€ 253 Taiko - €€€€ 178 Graceland BBQ - €€€ 253 Café Caron - €€ 182 Morgan & Mees - €€€ 253 Izakaya - €€€ 186 Champagneria Five CONTENTS Omelegg - € 190 Brothers Fat - €€€ 253 5 Yamazato - €€€€ 194 Mijnheer De Wit Le Hollandais - €€€€ 198 heeft honger - €€€ 253 As - €€€€ 202 Oceania - €€€ 206 ALPHABETICAL INDEX 254 De Leeuw Zuurwaren - € 210 Horno La Maria - €€€ 214 COLOPHON 256

perfect fusionof its neighbouringregions, IndiaandChina. Thisresults in Thai food isoneof themost widelyappreciated foods intheworld. Itisa complex flavours, which pleasemany palates. MAE SOMJAJ T +31651175049-www.maesomjai.com Koningsstraat 25-1011ET Amsterdam Tue.-Sun. 12.00-21.00 CENTRE

Centre 11 Mae Somjaj €

place in Holland is rarely an exciting exciting an rarely is Holland in place at aThai eating that so exception, no is food Thai and border, the crosses food the once lost gets ofa lot focus cultures, gastronomical with Often ingredients. healthy of composed mostly is and spiciness, subtle and freshness its with charms food Thai Thailand. from not is who for someone especially task, easy an not is this and adish, into put they influences and flavours the all to balance hard work chefs Thai seen more dedication and focus than than focus and dedication more seen rarely I’ve only, and women is staff The kitchen taste. and authenticity of terms in especially sign, agood is opinion, my in which, here eat people of Alot Thai of home. owners the and guests the remind that pictures and objects with filled is The restaurant Koningsstraat. the in place humble small, this as such exceptions, are there however Luckily, experience. Laab Kai Laab Western palate. Western to the flavours Thai to adapt refusal restaurant's the is statement second A statement. areal is this equipment, kitchen of hi-tech era an In texture. right the exactly to obtain pestle and amortar using to order made are dips and sauces the All kitchen. tiny this in eatery. grand humble this in experience Thai authentic go for don’t you the if you forgive never will buds Your taste Somjaj. at Mae word key fact,the in is, Balance to perfection. close abalance has and stunner real a is salad, chicken minced or spicy Kai, Laab The ever-popular flavour. of depth and but precision classics, of Thai versions Nofast-food scratch. from made is everything Somjaj Mae at because a hurry you’re in if here why. come Don’t understand initely def you here eating when and dishes Thai of her proud is Somjaj Mae a real Thai experiencea real -

Centre 13 Mae Somjaj €

KAAGMAN EN KORTEKAAS EN KAAGMAN of Amsterdam andturnitinto anovernight success. Both partners are Friends Bram andGielproved that you canopenarestaurant inthecentre bursting withtalent. Bram takes care of theguests andGielisthechef. T +31202336544-www.kaagmanenkortekaas.nl Sint Nicolaasstraat 43-1012NJAmsterdam Thu.-Sat. 18.00-22.30 CENTRE

39 Centre Kaagman en Kortekaas €€€

restaurant, where he was a chef for achef was he where restaurant, Bordewijk iconic of the Demandt Italian restaurant Toscanini and Will top-notch the are Amsterdam in of inspiration sources main two His 12. was he since Holland and Belgium in kitchens in working been He’s artisan. atrue also is Giel chef, talented and a great being Besides The experience he gained at Toscanini at Toscanini gained he The experience delights. gastronomical real into dishes everyday simple, Hetransforms dishes. informal to simple, factor excitement the at adding great truly is meat) and (cold charcuterie at making He excels chef. all-round agreat become has and gastronomy artisan about knowledge for hunger insatiable an has Giel many years. Daily changing menu natural, without fancy frills, and no and frills, fancy without natural, overall dishes to keep taught him raw cuisine and artisan classic. artisan and cuisine raw of contemporary combination mate ulti the is cuisine His creations. own his to season wisdom their use will he but Demandt, or Will Toscanini copy never He will shoulder. his over ing look angels guardian two one of his has always who and style, own his age, langu own his found toenough have happy is who chefs He’s one of those elegance. and for precision of feeling alot with teasing, and enticing, raw, but refined is cooking Giel’s tempting. and tasty looks dish every a choice: to make hard it's &Kortekaas, man - at menu Kaag the through Reading way. Italian nonsense—the - - -

Centre 41 Kaagman en Kortekaas €€€

is apity that most of those seemto bewarmed upleftovers of analready Many new restaurants open with a so-called new or innovative concept. It old anddry concept. This isnot thecaseat Guts&Glory. Daily 18.30-22.00, closed onthefirst Monday of themonth GUTS&GLORY Utrechtsestraat 6-1017VNAmsterdam T +31203620030-www.gutsglory.nl CENTRE

115 Centre Gs ut &Glory €€€€

Chapter 1 is Polderhoen, a free-range afree-range Polderhoen, 1is Chapter ingredient. chosen out of the best the to get on how completely focus can who chefs for the but also patrons for the exciting only not It is season. every rant restau exciting and a new create they months, four every animal on adifferent focussing By brilliant. it is as simple as is idea Their aconcept. as pigs’ and cows chicks, and ‘Fish up with came They Jordaan. the in Daalder restaurant sister behind chefs creative the are Noortwijk Van Freek and Beer de Guillaume mous chicken in all its forms and trans and forms its all in chicken mous infa this about all is chapter first This plates. up on our end eventually will that meat forter the bet and animal for the better is which possible, as slowly as to grow time them allowing setting, organic apure in bred are chickens The of flavour. full and tight is flesh the that result the with slowly very it grows because chosen was precise, to be JA757 Hubbard the breed, French This of chicken. breed Free range Polderhoen - - - - panied by sublime French Fries and a and Fries French sublime by panied - accom to perfection roasted derhoen Pol awhole approach, classical the between a choice there’s Then vour. fla the to boost to preparation prior brine aromatic homemade in soaked are chickens free-range Rolls-Royce These to perfection? roasted a chicken sight of the resist can Who formations. I can hardly wait… pork. about all be will winter whereas beef to dedicated entirely be will Autumn expressions. its all in fish considering are Freek and Guillaume For 2, Chapter pickles. homemade and onions fried sauerkraut, with served is and &Levie Brandt by created was The Polderhoen-dog cream? sour and beans black spicy hoisin, with chicken pulled as served thighs, delicious the about How dishes. original tasty in featured is chicken of the part every which in approach creative more the gofor can you Or salad. fresh crispy - - 117 Centre Gs ut &Glory €€€€

was builtinthe17thcentury andissurrounded by aromantic parkwhich the last remaining country estate withincity limits: Huize Frankendael. It In the wonderful park that also hosts the De Kas restaurant, you can find has two historic gardens, aperiodgarden and alandscapegarden. T +31204233930-www.restaurantmerkelbach.nl MERKELBACH Middenweg 72 -1097BSAmsterdam Tue.-Sat. 8.30-23.00,Sun.-Mon.8.30-18.00 EAST

173 East Merkelbach €€€

Ballotine of Chaamse hoen with ramsons

The impressive Huize Frankendael is in a nearly extinct chicken breed. The idea the middle of the park and the restau- is as simple as it is brilliant. By putting rant is located in the right wing coach the Chaamse hoen back on the menu, house. Although the rapid and drama- you create a demand, hence saving it tic urbanization of Amsterdam now has from extinction. How it was developed the park completely surrounded, you is not very clear, although we are quite can still enjoy the sound of silence and sure it originated from Campine (De the combination of nature, gastronomy, Kempen) fowls. Throughout the centu- and culture. ries these Campine breeds with their specific characteristics spread from The restaurant is named after former the coastal areas far into the Ardennes, city architect Ben Merkelbach. How- mainly through monasteries located ever, the first impression of the res- throughout the country. taurant may be quite different to what you actually get. You will find here In those days, it was quite common a very passionate and talented chef, to name each breed after its area of Geert Burema, who is a true purist. origin. References to area-specific He embraces Slow Food in its purest Campine breeds like the Hoogstraatse form, and he co-founded the Slow Food hoen and the Kempische hoen may be Chefs Alliance in The Netherlands. found in a number of old books, along Great food is in no way elitist. The res- with the Chaamse hoen, Chapons from taurant has to be a place of social lubri- Breda (read: Chaamse hoen). The Ber- cation, where knowledge can be spread tram Company from Breda raised and like the gospel. Diners can appreciate slaughtered birds known to be Chaamse where the food is actually coming from. hoen, because of the fineness of their €€€

Delicious, pure, and honest dishes from meat and the superior flavor. The h sustainable seasonal and local quality Chaamse hoen was so popular, it was c products are his mantras. Geert is a bril- often on the menu of the Royal family, lba ke r

liant authentic chef with great vision and in 1881 King William III ordered a e throughout his dishes. He’s a ‘nose to large flock of Chaamse hoen from the M tail’ aficionado and the ‘Goede Vissers’ Bertram Company. The Chaamse hoen 175 from Lauwersoog provide him with was standardized around 1909-1911 and great fish from their daily catch. in 1911 the breed was accepted into the st Dutch Poultry Standards. And now this Ea One of his major projects is intense col- once so popular race needs help and laboration with a small farm in order to Geert is cooking phenomenal dishes breathe new life into the Chaamse hoen, with it. Colophon www.lannoo.com Register on our website to regularly receive our newsletter with new publications as well as exclusive offers.

Texts: Luc Hoornaert Photography: Kris Vlegels, except for the pictures of Librije's zusje Translation: Marguerite Storm Editing: Bracha De Man Book design: Grietje Uytdenhouwen Cover design & illustrations: Emma Thyssen

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