THE GAMBIA 291 © Lonely Planet Publications 220 %
; birds and beaches Being the smallest African coun- Being the smallest African 1.6 million Mandinka, Wolof, Fula, English Mandinka, Wolof, Fula, kora Banjul dalasi (D); US$1 = D50; €1 D34 11,300 sq km Not needed for nationals of Area Capital Country code for Famous try; the Languages Money Population Visa Commonwealth countries, Belgium, the Nether- Germany, Italy, Luxembourg, lands, Ecowas or Scandinavian countries. One-month visas of around US$45 for all – can travel Best purchased before others. be difficult to obtain at the border. Bird lovers will easily be seduced by this compact country. On a tour upriver, the cries of will easily be seduced by this compact country. On a tour upriver, Bird lovers FAST FACTS The tiny sliver of The Gambia is wedged into surrounding Senegal, and either seen as a of The tiny sliver The For in its side, or the tongue that makes it speak, depending on who you talk to. splinter that invites country with a magnificent shoreline it’s an easily negotiated most travellers, smallest country than sun and surf. to Africa’s more But there’s and linger. visitors to laze all within easy reach and historical slaving stations are reserves Small fishing villages, nature is always there from the clamorous resort zones at the coast, and Gambia’s vibrant culture take place matches regularly to be taken Traditional wrestling in by open-eyed visitors. and the striking arenas performancesin Serekunda’s of griots can be experienced during weddings, baptisms or public concerts. 300 species will follow you as your pirogue charts course through mangrove- a leisurely over skills if your ornithological don’t go beyond identifying an inner-city Even lined wetlands. on an excellent network and can rely to wield binoculars here, pigeon, you’ll be tempted a pelican from flamingo. of trained guides to help you tell The Gambia THE GAMBIA ITINERARIES HIGHLIGHTS 292 Island Jufureh ferry tothe northbank,foravisitto and great colonialarchitecture. Take the sorts, andtempts withalively market re-sits just30minutes fromthecoastal small and dusty capital small anddustycapital in Gambia’smostexclusive hotel. The beabletospendthenight you might Tanji ofthe pretty andbirdreserve museum ket of to thesurroundingareas. Thebusymar- ( p303 ), andtieintheoccasionaldaytrip restaurant nestledinthe mangroves. at here canalsobecombinedwithameal away fromtheAtlanticCoast. A trip of protected nature, isonlyashort drive serve further alongthecoast. ( p314 ), which are onlyashortdistance ing villages of carrying on to stopping at can follow thesouthernshore byroad, town treat yourself toariver trip upto in theproximity of resorts, thecoastal of Having weeks. spentthefirst week almost theentire country inacouple Two Weeks est of totheculture for-head fromLamin One Week of timeatthebeaches of the area.bian coastal Spendagoodamount explore quite agoodpartof theGam- Days Three lage life intinyfishingcommunities. Gunjur &Kartong crammed AlbertMarket. Banjul est nationalpark. monkeys andcrocodiles inGambia’stini- Reserve Abuko Nature Georgetown on thebeach. slide intotheAtlanticfromahammock Coast resorts Atlantic reserves. islands, tiny THEGAMBIA••Highlights Lamin Lodge ( p313 ), aswellthesmallfish- ( p320 ). If that’sbeyondbudget, you ( p315 ), Gambia’ssmalleststretch ( p306 ) Negotiate abargain in ( p317). Serekunda Makasutu Makasutu ( p317 ) andthebeautiful Start yourtripasabove, Start then Over alongweekend, youcan Over Ambitioustravellers canvisit ( p320 ) Tourupriver, past Bintang Bolong ( p315 ), acreaking wooden campements Gunjur ( p313 ) Taste tranquilvil- Georgetown Georgetown ( p316 ). Ifyou’re lucky, ( p303 by,and ) isclose ( p303 ) Watch thesun ( p315 ) Spotbirds, 33) and (p313) Abuko Nature Re- Abuko Nature Banjul andnature 30) from ( p320 ), 39) then ( p319 ), Atlantic Coast Atlantic ( p298 ) Kartong George- Ginak
hotel room. packed yet,andyou’re boundtofinda Thebeaches dryyourself. aren’tstaying swelling rivers andlarge waterfalls, while ofcan stillenjoythesight lushgreens, peratures, thisisagreat timetocome. You verythough hot– ifyoucantake thetem- their pricesbyupto50%. tourist groups,andmanyplacesreduce ent travellers of willenjoytheabsence large this, too. Everything isgreener, independ- Butthere’scomfortable. apositive sideto stifling andhumidheatcanbecomeun- possible. Malaria iswidespread andthe rendering journeysupcountryim- certain The rainswashawaysomeof theroads, (86°F). It’sthetimemosttouristsavoid. time, temperatures toaround30°C rise and lastsuntillate September. Duringthis to 26°C(79°F). April, theaverage daytimemaximumsrise wildlife andbirds.Frommid-February to (75°F). Thisisalsothebesttimetowatch time maximumtemperatures around24°C dry andrelatively cool,withaverage day vember toFebruary, whenconditionsare to visitTheGambiaistheperiodfromNo- By farthemostpopulartimefortourists CLIMATE &WHENTOGO Basse SantaSu National Park River Gambia where youcantake pirogue excursions to October andNovember are fairlydry, around late June starts The wetseason LONELY INDEX PLANET HOW MUCH?
Shwarma Souvenir T-shirt Bottle of Julbrew 1L ofbottledwater 1L ofpetrol/gas 1hour Internet French bread Sandwich Newspaper Soft drink D50 D50 D15 ( p321). D10 D8 D30 D30 D200-500 D20 www.lonelyplanet.com D30 ( p321 ) andvisit famous slave shipment points. James becameone of WestAfrica’s mostin- totrade ontheGambiaRiver,rights andFort gainedall to theEuropeans.In1783,Britain bouring tribesandtookcaptives, them selling European traders, localchiefs invadedneigh- thetraditionalbalance. Encouragedupset by ofpurchase slaves for shipmentthatmost gunpowder forivoryandgold,it wasthe vied forcontrolof theregion’s trade. and 18thcenturies,theFrench andBritish Albreda,fort atnearby andduring the17th Twenty years later, theFrench builta rival stream fromthemouthof theGambiaRiver. FortJamestablished onanisland25kmup- bytheBritish,whoes- eclipsed had been explorersPortuguese in1455.By1650,they Malinké branch withdistinctive culture. and becameknownastheMandinka –a bia River. Islamwiththem, Theybrought the Malinké towardsthevalleyof theGam- asignificantmigratorymovementcaused of gradual disintegration of theEmpire of Mali the more powerfulEmpire of The Songhaï. by mid-15th century,whenitwaseclipsed Niger. Mali’s influencebegantowaneinthe stretched and present-day Senegal between absorbed intotheEmpire of Mali, which 1500years. tions foratleast inhabited byancientcivilisa- rica hasbeen mounds indicate thatthispartof WestAf- Gambia,andburial Wassu groupinEastern Ancient stone circles,such asthefamous HISTORY www.lonelyplanet.com a settlement that was named Bathurst. a settlement Island, and established built aforton Banjul As partof in 1816,theBritish this crusade, converted from adungeon intoahaven. ships of other nations,and FortJames was Royal Navy ships begancapturingslave When theBritish abolishedslavery in1807, ColonialPeriod The While theEuropeanstradedtobacco and The first Europeanstoreach Gambiawere By the13thcentury,area hadbeen ensure asmooth-flowingtext. omitted ‘The’ forreasons ofclarityandto situations. Inthisbookwehave usually ‘The’, butthisisoften omitted ineveryday The Gambia’sofficialnamealwaysincludes THE GAMBIA nial territories, butnoonewasinterested. tually triedtotradeGambiaforothercolo- the localchiefs theyappointed. ac- Britain to afew Britishdistrictcommissioners and forgotten, andadministrationwaslimited Gambiawasalmost next 75years though, when Gambiabecameafullcolony.Forthe ministered until1888, fromSierraLeone schools andonlyahandfulof doctors. 1960’s, Gambiahadfewer than50primary bytheearly inthewayoflittle else services; schemes were implemented. Butthere was ing exportearnings,andotheragricultural weretations improved asawayof increas- ally self-sustaining. ally self-sustaining. an independentGambiacouldbeeconomic- doubtedthe colony’ssmallsize,Britain that apartfromthat,and,givenhardly developed Party (PPP).Thepoliticallandscapewas Jawara foundedthePeople’s Progressive had already gainedindependence, Dawda In 1960,whenotherWestAfricannations Yoke offtheBritish Throwing Banjul, became the country’s capital. becamethecountry’scapital. Banjul, lar headof state. Bathurst, nowrenamed Elizabeth IIremained Queen Britain’s titu- 1965. Jawara becameprimeminister, and which boosted thelocaleconomy. a populartouristdestination,both factors groundnuts increased andGambiabecame during thenext10years, theworldpricefor accused ofaccused neglect andmismanagement. encouraged, andtheJawara government was position partieswere not tolerated, though ent republic, withJawara aspresident. Op- dissolved. relaxed and,by1989, theconfederation was good idea, relations were completely never a politicial unityseemed Although effect. Confederation cameintoSenegambian wouldbeintegrated. In 1982,the Senegal announced thatthe armiesof Gambia and rebels and, acknowledginghisdebt,Jawara army helped oustthe pact, theSenegalese coup. Inaccordance withamutualdefence soldiers1980, whendisaffected staged a fall and restructuring by theInternational The GambiaRiver protectorate wasad- In the1950’s,Gambia’sgroundnutplan- Still, Gambiabecameindependentin A viable unlikely, future but stillseemed In 1970,Gambiabecameafullyindepend- The first signsof discontent camein Meanwhile, groundnut prices beganto THE GAMBIA •• History THE GAMBIA••History
293 THE GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA completing his smooth transition from tion), andJammeh was made president, for Patriotic and Construc- Reorientation APRC renamed (now neatly theAlliance tourism picked up. tourists thatGambia wassafe again, and 1995, theBritish Foreign advised Office would beheldthe followingyear. In March switched and announcedthatelections tack bia’s touristindustry wasbadlyaffected. threatened tocuttheirsupport,andGam- fulfilled, aiddonors andtheWorld Bank months, wentun- butwhenthispromise would bebackinthebarrackswithin afew Jammeh thatthe AFPRC initiallypromised Forces Provisional RulingCouncil (AFPRC). new government, tobeheadedbytheArmed old LieutnantYahya Jammeh, announceda bloodless coup.Thecoupleader, 29-year- officersby youngmilitary inareportedly when hewasoverthrown on22July1994 popular. therefore, Itcameasasurprise, outside world,Jawara appeared to remain were re-elected forasixthterm. Tothe In April1992President Jawara andthe PPP 1990s The the1980s. popular throughout petence andcorruption,Jawara remained in thefaceof frequent allegationsof incom- inruralareas.satisfaction Despite this,and moreagricultural subsidiesandeven dis- Fund(IMF)resultedMonetary inreduced 294 Bird Reserve To Kafountine THE GAMBIA Te Gambia The The 1996 electionswere won bythe In early1995, Jammeh pragmatically A TLNIC (25km) Tanji THEGAMBIA••History O CEAN ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ (Niumi NationalPark) Kololi Tanji Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Kotu Kartong Darsilami Fajara Gunjur Ginak Island Brikama ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ Diouloulou Serekunda Bakau Nature Reserve Faraba Banta Séléti International Abuko Airport Banjul To Ziguinchor Giboro BANJUL ὅὅ ὅὅ (73km) Barra Albreda Tumani Tenda Lamin Bessi Karang ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ Jufureh Island James Somita To Kaolack(55km); Dakar (247km) Bintang Gambia Kuntair Sibanor Ὀ ὈὈὈ Bwiam
L owerRiv River be handled. indicative ofseems theway elections might of ‘cleansing’ thegovernment of rivals,and polls, this waswidelyinterpreted asa way Only afew months before thepresidential meh hasmadeduring histimeinpower. –one of suchd’état claims Jam- several arrested onclaimsof anattempted coup officers ranking military were high several political situation inTheGambiawhen were onceagainalerted tothe observers oppression. InMarch 2006,international troversial medialaw,reinforced feelings of he hadexpressed hisoppositiontoacon- dara in2004,which cameonlydays after ation of prominentjournalistDeydaHey- rather sinister background.Theassassin- preparing forelections,thistimeagainst a At thetimeof writing,thecountrywasagain Today Gambia five-yearvoted himintoasecond term. as aforceforgood,andinOctober 2001, 2001, manypeoplecametoregard Jammeh shooting of protesting students in several thatincludedthe of abuses humanrights the upcountryprovinces. Despite aseries new clinicsandschools were for promised openedand station a nationaltelevision economy. Anewairportwasconstructed, to rebuild thecountry’sinfrastructure and ofannounced aseries ambitiousschemes over twoyears. minor armyofficer toheadof state injust Kerewan
To consolidate thissupport,Jammeh Bintang S ENGAL Kanilai S ENGAL National Park Salikene
Kiang West Bolong ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ Ὀ Ὀ Bondali Joli Baobolong Wetland Reserve Kalagi
Tendaba
Kwinella
Tr ans-Gambia To Kaolack(45km); Katchang Dakar (237km) www.lonelyplanet.com Genieri
Trans Hwy Nding Pakali -Gambia Hwy ὈὈ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ Farafenni To Bignona (45km) Mansa Konko Soma Jappeni ὅὅ Ὀ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅ H CULTURE THE www.lonelyplanet.com The Gambia extended role familyplays an important In Gambia, as anywhere inAfrica, the else FAMILY LIFE Daily Life polished smilesand touristhustling. real Gambia, theonethatliesbeyond intothe and graduallygrant youaninsight in conversation ortheavoidance of topics, lation willhelpyou tounderstand silences aware of thetroublesthatplague popu- lars are to the localeconomy.Yet vital being dol- image tothetouristcommunity,whose ment iskeen topresent agleamingholiday thatthegovern-readily noticethis,seeing listening. Short-term travellers not might be knowwhomight tics openly–younever express theirviewsongovernmental poli- conducted withcare, andfew peoplewill climate of distrust. Conversations are often government have alsoresulted inacertain creasing repression exerted byGambia’s typical of thecountry. and therespectful interaction other wise ism hassomewhatdistorted socialrelations resortsfrom thecoastal where masstour- iseasierfoundupcountry,away hospitality some of thesmilestillremains, real though descriptions, ble. those Wiping theglossoff Africa’, where localculture iseasilyaccessi- the ‘SmilingCoast’,awelcoming‘gateway to Holiday brochures like todescribeGambiaas NationalPsyche The Kau-ur Dankunku ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Years of ruleandthein- authoritarian Fula Kunda ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ Piniai Baro Kunda Njau Sotokoi ὅὅ Charmen ὅ River Gambia National Park ὈὈ Ὀ ὅὅὅ ὅὅ ὅ Baboon (Jangjang-bureh) Island ὅὅ ὅὅ Georgetown Kuntaur Wassu Wassu StoneCircles Pata S ENGAL MacCarthy Sankuli Kunda Island Bansang Ὀ Forest Park Kunkilling Yorofoula Médina- ὅ ὅὅ ὅ ὅ S ENGAL
Forest Park ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ Gambia Dobo Sare Bojo even completeeven theirprimary exams, and years of primary school, many girlsdon’t numbers are stillfairlyequal intheearly how farup theladderthey progress. While mines which children go toschool and than academicperformance, thatdeter- dren. Inreality, it’sfamilyincome,rather primary education isavailable toallchil- drops byanother 15%to20%.Intheory, be abletoread andwrite, andforgirlsthis eracy rates. 40%of boysare estimated to ernment, Gambia stillsuffers fairlylowlit- Despite somemeasures taken bythegov- EDUCATION quickly numberupto10offspring. five, can thismeansthata‘small’household with anaverage childbirth rate of around sometimes marryacoupleof wives, and riages inGambia. Even relatively poormen which stillaccountforthemajority of mar- morewidens even inpolygamousfamilies, in aperson’s life. Thenetworkof relatives wives, children andparents athome. moneyhometosupporttheir rope, sending heads of familyhave leftthecountryforEu- of agrowingnumberof whose households virtually unheardof, withtheexception arewomen orsingle-motherhouseholds ally jointhehomeof theirparents. Single- their husband.After adivorce,womenusu- andwomenjointhatofown household, married, which iswhenmenfoundtheir attheirparents’stay homeuntiltheyare ὅὅὅ Unmarried children, particularlywomen, Ὀ Ὀ Diabugu ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ
River ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ THE GAMBIA••TheCulture Maka Darsilami Sabi ὅ ὅ 0 0 Vélingara U perRiv Basse SantaSu ὅ ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ Ὀ ὅὅὅ ὅὅ Sutukoba To Kolda (103km) Fatoto Médina Gounas To Tambacounda Tambacounda 30 km ὅ ὅ 20 miles Kantale (48km) Kunda
(10km)
295 To THE GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA Christianity. have found their waybothintoIslamand Elements of traditionalreligious practice ticed inthepredominantly Christianareas. called animism)are mostcommonlyprac- Traditional religious forms(sometimes extent theSerer.the Jolaandtoalesser Christian faithismostwidespread among are almost exclusively Muslim,whilethe The Wolof, Fula andMandinka people 90% of Gambia’spopulationisMuslim. Islam isthedominantreligion –about RELIGION cation are alsorelevant. aspects, such aseconomicsuccessandedu- determine much of sociallife, other though and formerly,slaves. structures These still groups, includinggriotsandblacksmiths, ety, followedbyprofessional occupational traders) are traditionallyatthetopof soci- colonial empires. Thefreeborn (rulers and ion thathasitsoriginsinWestAfrica’spre- groups are structured inahierarchical fash- With theexceptionof ethnic theJola,these andJola.Smaller groupsincludetheSerer (about 16%)andtheFula(around18%). dinka (comprisingaround42%),theWolof years old. 45% of Gambia’spopulationare under14 and make alivingfromthetouristindustry. migrate tofromtheupcountrytowns try the Atlanticcoast,area manypeople zonesat people isaroundtheurbanised in Africa. Thestrongest concentrationof has oneof populationdensities thehighest With around115peoplepersqkm,Gambia Population getting marriedandorhaving children. girlsoftensity level, dropoutiftheyare oruniver- Atsecondary in thehousehold. to benefit,whilethegirlskeep helpingout child toschool, boyswillusuallybethefirst every If there’s moneytosend notenough fewer even level. carryontothesecondary 296 families who moved fromSierra toBanjul occupied by the descendants of freed-slave pretentious Krio-style homes,some still cupied by thecolonialelite, as wellasun- Banjul grandhomes onceoc- has several Architecture ARTS The mainethnicgroupsare theMan- THEGAMBIA••Religion and Rebellionthe Recaller. reggae artistssuch astheDancehall Masters Dindin Jobarteh, singer Jelibah Kuyateh and the reggae. Renowned localmusiciansinclude artistsandJamaicaninated bySenegalese Today, Gambia’smusicsceneismainly dom- andbeyond. huge impactinGambia,Senegal hada Sosse andsinger Labah Super Eagles African music.Groupslike theAfro-funky ofential inthedevelopment modernWest Konte and Malamini Jobarteh. Jobarteh, JaliBansang NyamaSuso,Dembo try. Famous style more commoninthewestof thecoun- Su,andthesofter Santa Casamance Basse of theeastern and regions aroundBansang variety of thedrypatterns styles,notably awide its smallsize,Gambiaproudlyboasts of Empirecollapse themighty of Mali. For intheregiongroups settled after thegradual able centre of Gambia. Thistinycountrybecameaverit- connected toThe historyisdeeply whose icon of theworld African musicthroughout rens push intonew creative directions. artists such Fall Baboucar and Toimbo Lau- art of batikmaking,which contemporary masks on display.Also fascinating isthe examples of and carved traditionalstatues hasafew nationalmuseum good Banjul’s Painting &Sculpture Gambia isamajor centre of the Music of thenewgeneration. of this.The1960sclassic Conton, date fromthe1960sisindicative of Gambia’sbest-knownnovelist, William literature scene–thefactthatworks exactlyhaveGambia doesn’t athriving Literature architect Pierre Goudiaby. jul Airport,bothdesignedbySenegalese porary architecture, visitArch 22andBan- British colonialfortifications.Forcontem- (James Island)andFortBullen(Barra); theremains ofjul youcansee FortJames intheearly1800s.NotfarfromBan- Leone Salleh ( Dibba ( most famouswork.Authors such asEbou In the1960s,Gambiawashugely influ- kora Kora Land; Chaff onthe Wind; -playing brothers Pa BoboandTata kora kora players includeAmadou 1989)are leadingwriters playing,whenMalinké www.lonelyplanet.com The African 1986)andTijan kora ishis , an Basse Santa Suare Santa particularly rewarding.Basse Upcountry,Georgetownflats inBanjul. and Kartong, pondsinKotuandmud sewage such ashotel gardensinKololi,Gunjurand national parks,butalsomuch humblerareas, include alltheprotected areas listed under fishing owls.Goodsites forbird-watching Abyssinian rollers, painted snipesand Pel’s andred-throatedswallow-tailed bee-eaters, est toornithologistsare Egyptian plovers, Europe andthetropics.Ofparticular inter- pathbetween thecoastasaflight that use corded, includingmanymigratoryspecies birds. More than560specieshave re- been most otherdestinationswhenitcomesto elephantsorrhinos,Gambiabeats mighty parks. Butwhileitcan’tshowoff with inthenational diles cansometimesbeseen lope species,monkeys, hipposandcroco- warthogs,variousante-mammals, though tempt touristswithhugeGambia doesn’t ANIMALS Wildlife attheriver’sthe capital, mouth. thefareasternbetween borderandBanjul, over lessthan10minelevation loses 450km domin ated bytheGambiaRiver. that of Delaware) anditsterritory isentirely (half thesizeof Wales,orlessthantwice sq km,itisthesmallestcountryinAfrica tion of an80kmcoastline. Withonly11,295 withthesmallexcep- rounded bySenegal, only 35kmwide,Gambiaisentirely sur- Africa. About 300kmlong,but averaging ofthe absurdityof thecolonialcarve-up Gambia’s shape andpositionepitomise Land The ENVIRONMENT www.lonelyplanet.com area. All,except the River Gambia National covering 3.7% ofserves, the national land The Gambia hassixnational parksandre- Parks National dry grasslandand opensavanna woodland. that naturalvegetation consistsmostlyof bia’s positionin the southernSahelmeans ther upstream. Away fromtheriver, Gam- areasthe saline galleryforest and dense fur- bia River, which islinedwithmangroves in land’s proximity tothecoastandGam- Vegetation islargely determined bythe PLANTS Gambia issoflatthattheRiver at arapidrate. back on’,theyare onceagaindiminishing years after thebeaches‘sprayed hadbeen mining continuedapace,andonly afew sometemporary relief.brought Yet sand the shore asitwaswashedinonthetide, using Dutch technology near totrapsand US$20 millionbeach rejuvenation project, Atic coastliterally started disappearing. beachesthat thewidesandy of theAtlan- mining,erosionbecamesobad legal sand mainlybyil- erosion.Caused and coastal Gambia are overfishing, deforestation The main issuesfacedby environmental Environmental Issues scrub. dunes, lagoons,drywoodlandandcoastal ( River BirdReserve p313 ) are with coastal, and NiumiNationalPark ( p317 ) and Tanji isnorthof theGambiaRiver, land Reserve Wet- flats anddrywoodland.Baobolong includingmangroves, habitats several mud Kiang WestNationalPark ( p319 ) protects ( serve p315 ) isatractof galleryforest, while are opentothepublic.Abuko Nature Re- Park ( p321 Island) ; alsoknownasBaboon eg astouristguides. local population in theprotection efforts cational projects thatdirectly involve the tries toaddress edu- theproblem through DivisionForestry ProjectCentral (CDFP) groundnuts.Thefor cashcrops, notably larger scale,forests are cleared tomake room overfishing). through fish (caught Ona charcoal, much of tosmoke which isused trees are alsofelled to make firewood and match agrowingdemandforfarmland,but biggest problem.Woodlands are cleared to protection schemes. interesting examples of community- involved Forestry Project inGeorgetown, andare are administered Division bytheCentral Kunkiling andDoboForest Park upcountry andbird-watchingas anature spot. reserve Forest Park ( p306 ) iswell-known,primarily to provide renewable timberstocks.Bijilo rice cooked anddecorated in tomato sauce and thick, meatygroundnut sauce include dishes National Staples & Specialities FOOD & DRINK Away from the coast, deforestationAway fromthecoast, isthe forest parkshave Several established been THE GAMBIA••Environment domodah, rice with a benechin 297
, THE GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA drink isthethickandsourpalmwine. afternoon’s socialising.Alocalalcoholic of Or, forareal punch, caffeine tryaglass herbaltea sweet the fruitsof thebaoba than actual invitations to eatmore.than actualinvitations more of anacceptance youfinishing, rather of ‘you haven’t eaten anything,dig in’ are have Theshocked hadenough. comments there’s stillfood inthebowl to showyou meal times. wipe yourbumwith andisstrictlyoutat only –theleftishandyou your right try thehandversion, make sure you use rice disheswitha spoonorthehand.Ifyou of riceandsauce. People thetraditional eat the floor,groupedaroundalarge platter Meals are traditionallyeaten squatting on Habits &Customs food choices duringyourstay. ‘bits’. Prepare foraratherlimited varietyof a suspiciouschicken orfish flavour, justno dish withoutmeat,you’llstilloften notice poor. Thismeansthatwhenyouordera it won’teatmeat–vegetables are for the whysomeonewhocanafford standing there’srants, andwhat’sworse, littleunder- Vegetarian foodishardtofindinrestau- &Vegans Vegetarians rather dubioushygienicquality. your chop shopcarefully –someare of beers only.Choose simply shuts,orserves when thepotsare theplace emptyatnight, foodduringlunch anddinner– serve the menu.Theyrarely openallday,but only just askwhatthey’ve got,ratherthantosee have onedishavailable atanytime,soyou ies, calledchop shops.Mostof only those fortinylocaleater-you’ll probablysearch national cuisine. Ifyou’re onabudget, anything here, fromrefined localtointer- an excellentrestaurant scene. You’llfind withGambia’s AtlanticCoastisblessed toEat&Drink Where and are thehibiscusdrink duced juices.Themostfamousof those carrots, cassava andothervegetables. with carefully arranged chunks of friedfish, 298 It’s usuallypolite while tofinish eating Gambia hasarich arrayof locallypro- ataaya BANJUL••History bouyi , served withthefree offer of, served an , a thick, sweet juicemadefrom , athick,sweet kinkiliba b. Forbreakfast, the bissap is often served. is often served. , ginger beer Quantumnet Gamtel following: includethe Reliable Internet services Access Internet INFORMATION reach themainland proper. Oyster Creekcrosses onDenton Bridge to dual carriageway, which, after about3km, vast structure of Arch 22 and turnsintoa On theedge of underthe thecity,itgoes outofbecoming themainroad Banjul. rarelyshackle houses visited bytourists. –amazeofBanjul narrowstreets andram- the October17Roundaboutisold partof ling AlbertMarket intoLiberationSt.Westof St,which leadspastthebust- including Russell From here, mainstreets runsouth, several The July22Square isthecentre of town. ORIENTATION original, localname). dinka wordfor‘bamboo’andthe island’s was soonafter renamed (theMan- Banjul ofbecame thecapital theyoungnation,and in 1965,Bathurstwasgranted citystatus, ited theslave trade(atleaston paper). the BritishSlave TradeActof 1807prohib- afterwhich toimpedeillegalhumantraffic, from asanoperationalbase was established ofthe secretary It theBritishColonialOffice. first namedBathurst, after Henry Bathurst, AlexanderGrant,andwas 1816 byCaptain wasfounded in Banjul The islandsettlement HISTORY resortsGambia’s plush seaside lack. tures of are historythat imbuedwithasense andfadingcolonialstruc- the oldmuseum show urbanAfricaatitsbusybest,while Its colourfulmarkets andhecticharbour blown streets, istrulyworth avisit. Banjul shadow of neglect thathauntsitssand- Yet Banjul. seaport sleepy despite the consistently ignored citythanthe capital It’s hardtoimagineamore unlikely, more pop 35,000 BANJUL 10pm) midnight) July 22DrrunswestfromSquare, When Gambiaachieved independence
Internet Café Internet (Nelson Mandela St; perhrD30; (Nelson Mandela (July 22Dr;perhr D30; (July www.lonelyplanet.com h h 9am- 8am- www.lonelyplanet.com 4 6 1 3 2 5 BANJUL Beach Bar(3km);Bakau(7km); To DentonBridge(3km);Palm Grove Hotel(3km);Bacchius International Airport(30km) ὅὅ ὅὅ INFORMATION St Joseph'sAdult Educationand D2 Main PostOffice...... C3 Guinean Consulate...... War Memorial...... Tanbi Wetland Complex...... SkillsCentre...... National Museum...... Fountain...... Arch 22...... Standard CharteredBank...... Sierra LeoneHighCommission... Royal VictoriaTeachingHospital.. Quantumnet...... Malian Embassy...... Immigration Office...... IBC Bank...... Gamtel InternetCafé...... Banjul Pharmacy...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Serekunda (15);Banjul Wallace Cole Rd ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
AC Jeremiah Allen St Allen Jeremiah 12
Samba Njammeh Nyang St 24
Alhassan Ndure St Ndure Alhassan Mosque Rd Dawur Gaye St Gaye Dawur
2
Sagarr Jobe St Jobe Sagarr
Antouman Faal St Faal Antouman Jallow Jallow St Jallow Jallow
Tafsir Demba Ndow St Ndow Demba Tafsir
17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 St Chow Jack
Tafsir Wally Joof St Joof Wally Tafsir
Ousman Jeng St Jeng Ousman 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 St Sarr Amie
19
D2 B4 D3 C2 D2 A1 D3 C4 C1 D3 C5 C4 D3 B1 C2 Tanbi Wetland Dr 22 July Kerewan Sound...... Craft Market...... Albert Market...... Michel's ...... Mandela AllesKlarFastFood..... King ofShwarmaCafé...... Ali BabaSnackBar...... Carlton Hotel...... Atlantic Hotel...... er ushue...... D4 Ferry Guesthouse...... SHOPPING EATING SLEEPING
Complex Alpha Tapsiru St Ousman Njie Keen St
Muammar al Gadhafi Ave Gadhafi al Muammar Kankujeri Rd Kankujeri
Master Fowlis St B Abdou Wally Mbye St Mbye Wally Abdou
ὈὈ Rebecca Savage St Savage Rebecca
16 18 J. R. Forster St Forster R. J.
Mam Mberry Njie St
Rev William Cole St Pierre Njie Tce
Hannah Forster St 9 Banjul Rene Blain St 1 Marma Bah St
Freedom Cherno Adama Bah St Bah Adama Cherno 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 Lane
ὈὈ
Tafsir Balla Tafsir Joof St Joof 31 1km 0.5miles 0 0 B1 B1
D2 D2 D2 A1 D3 D3 D3 Ma Cumba Jallow St Tafsir Ebou Samba St Samba Ebou Tafsir Roundabout October 17
14 Imam Lamin Bah St Bah Lamin Imam Town Old
Minibuses toSerekunda & D3 Air SénégalInternational...... West Coast Airways...... Pirogues toBarra...... Brikama...... Minibuses toBakau...... Ferry toBarra...... Air Guinée...... TRANSPORT
Serign Sillah St Sillah Serign
Davidson Carrol St Carrol Davidson House Brown St Brown State 7
Daniel Goddard St 32 Out ofBounds
OAU Blvd This Area 5 Strictly
July 22
10 Square Nelson Mandela St St Mandela Nelson 3 28 34
Ecowas Ave 13 8 11 17 to AlbertMarket 20 Main Entrance 29 15 30 33
A TLNIC 21 St Russell 23 4 O CEAN
Liberation St 22 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 BANJUL 25 D C3 D4 C2 C2 D4 C3 6 26 To Barra
(5km) 299 THE GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA facilities aren’t great. but mainhospitalhasanA&EDepartment, 22 Dr)Gambia’s 8am to11amFriday. to 1.30pmMondayThursday, andfrom travellers cheques. Theyopenfrom8am ATMs cardsandchange thataccept Visa and Immigration Office Extensions Visa postoffice Main Post Bank Standard Chartered Money Teaching Hospital Royal Victoria Pharmacy Banjul Services Medical 300 mosphere has aquaint kind of charm. The at- and this sleepy than anational capital, feels moreBanjul like avery large village &ACTIVITIES SIGHTS andpolice. withthemilitary risk difficulties Strictly Outof Boundsonthemap), oryou the area (marked House behindtheState as minal andAlbert Market as well.Don’tenter ferry;is theBarra bevigilantaroundtheter- pickpockets. Theirfavourite huntingground Violent crimeisrare butthere in Banjul, are DANGERS &ANNOYANCES Near Albert Market. Market. Near Albert Across theroadfromhospital. 4pm) Visa extensions costD250. 4pm) Visaextensions Hill St Imam Lamin Bah St Imam LaminBah DanielGoddardSt WilliamColeSt Rev CumbaJallowSt Ma ChernoAdamah St Hill BlainSt Rene Rd Kankujeri Hagan St Grant St Dobson St Newname Cotton St Clarkson St Bund Rd Old name names. Pleaserefer tothelistbelowfor thecorresponding oldname. fordirections totheoldnamesofplaces.able answerasking The Banjulmapdisplaysthenew including taxidrivers, tend tocontinueusingtheoldnames,andyou’llusuallygetamore reli- heroes ofindependenceratherthanthosecolonialpersonalities. However, localresidents, Most ofBanjul’sstreets were renamed inthelate ’90s,andnowcarrythenamesofGambia’s NAMESTREET CHANGES BANJUL••Dangers&Annoyances Bah Bah St IBC Bank ( % (Russell St; ( % 4428145; LiberationSt) ( % 4227470; 4228611; OAU Blvd;
h ( % 8am-4pm Mon-Sat) h 4222081; EcowasAve) ( % 9am-8.30pm) 4228223; July both have h 8am-
itnS Davidson CarrolSt LiberationSt Tafsir EbouSambaSt Ave alGadhafi Muammar July22Sq Wellington St WellingtonSt JallowSt Picton St Orange St July22Dr Pde Marina Newname Sq MacCarthy Liberation St Independence Dr Hope St Old name .gm; July22Dr) coup d’état. coup d’état. visitors thatenlightens about the museum also acosycafé,souvenir shop andasmall lent viewsover thecityandcoast.There’s Its publiclyaccessiblebalconygrants excel- celebrate coupof themilitary 22July1994. h toria Teachingtoria Hospital Gambia’s main healthfacility,the Teaching Hospital Royal Victoria Goudiaby, the architect PierreDesigned bySenegalese Arch 22 Market Albert Since itscreation inthemid-19thcentury, Market Albert in onacasualstrollaroundtown. are andthese in intimate besttaken details, but city’s attractionliesnotingrandsights, thing here andthensome. the dried fishtotourist-tempting souvenirs at plaits,freshing fabricsandfalse fruitsand hubofBanjul’s activity.Fromshimmer- buying, bartering andbargaining, hasbeen cellent explanations of its research projects are surprisingly interesting. They offer ex- tours (free, donationsare though welcome) tive holidayidea,but thedailytwo-hour notsoundlike visitmight a seduc- hospital late 19thcenturyand modernbuildings.A ment, butalsotours arounditscomplexof 9am-11pm) Craft Market Craft notonlyoffers emergency treat- is a 35m-high gateway isa35m-high builtto
(Russell St) , youcanfindalmostany- arch
( % (July 22Dr;admissionD35; (July , anarea of frenzied www.lonelyplanet.com 4226152; www.rvth.dosh Royal Vic- reasonable pricesintheon-site boutique. theirbeautifulcraftworkat and purchase take afree tourof andtie-dyeclasses, sewing women forthelast20years. Visitors can .com; EcowasAve; from there, someasearlythe1820s. still belongtofamilieswhocameBanjul asmanyofFreetown inSierraLeone, them they resemble theinner-city architecture of and corrugated roofs). It’snocoincidence structures balconies withwrought-iron (steep-roofedKrio-style clapboardhouses ofsembly decrepit colonialbuildingsand you reach the‘oldtown’–achaotic as- the wideMa CumbaJallow Standbeyond, Heading westfromtheFerry Port,towards Old Town building, this Tucked awayinanancientPortuguese Centre St Joseph’sAdultEducationandSkills faceinTheGambia. tion medicalservices intothedire painful,insight though situa- into malariaandhepatitis,worthwhile, www.lonelyplanet.com coast instead. ifyou wanta more However, ring the beach and comforts of theAtlantic prefer- inBanjul, Not many touristsstay SLEEPING sible bird-watching area. Complex Kankujeri Rdisknownas the The stretch of mangrove eithersideof Tanbi Wetland Complex The July 22Square The Museum National photos, mapsandhistoricalpapers. there’s adustybutfascinatingdisplay of arelook. Explanations generally good,and eared anddated exhibitsthatare wortha of KingGeorge VIof in1937. Britain up) out forthe pompandpubliccelebrations.Look mental forgovern-matches, andisnowmainlyused lonial creation, wasoncethesite of cricket 4pm Mon-Thu, &Sat) 8am-1pmFri Fri) hasprovided trainingtodisadvantaged square fountain museum , andisapopular andeasilyacces-
(MacCarthy Sq) (MacCarthy tocommemorate thecoronation War Memorial (July 22Dr;admissionD25; (July centre h 9am-2pm Mon-Thu, 9am-12pm
, (
% a recently greened co- andthe(nowdried 4228836; stjskills@qanet hassomedog- Tanbi Wetland h 8am- rates. drinks, itoffers excellentchoices atdecent breakfast menuallthe waytoafter-dinner in townthatcan be calledclassy.Fromthe Dr; s/dD500/550,withair-conD800/850; snacks fromD50,mealsD150-200; D3007/3937; Ave; alGadhafi Muammar s/d www.corinthiahotels.com; dela St; mealsD150-250; from D30) h double ifyouwantair-con. andferrystalls terminal. Singleroomprices great balconyforwatching thebusytrading orous, butyourbestbudget bet. It hasa aboveguesthouse abusyshop isnotglam- the bird-watchers. ated byornithologistClive toplease Barlow massage centrenightclub, andagarden cre- and plentyof leisure facilitiesincludinga sort hotel hasnumerousbars, restaurants sa -palmgrovehotel.co.uk; s/dinclbreakfast D1150/1840; sauce start ataboutD25. start sauce and streets where stalls plates of riceand ket, cheap you’llfindseveral chop shops north endof Liberation StandAlbertMar- little beyondfast-food joints.Aroundthe Banjul is hardlyaculinaryhaven, offering EATING &DRINKING it here. African environment,you’re likely tofind usual activitiesyou’dexpectfrom aresort. has adecentswimmingbeach andall the sonal andbetter valuethantheAtlantic. It thishotelSerekunda, issmaller,more per- shwarmas andfelafel. reputation forits stitution withadeserved than justakebab shop,thisplaceisanin- 28 LiberationSt;s/d/trD350/500/610; value option. running water andindoortoilets.Agood- a littlemore upmarket, withluxurieslike friendly place serves excellent Lebanese excellent Lebanese friendly place serves grilled in old fat will do, right? grilled in oldfatwilldo,right? is greasy. Sometimes nothing butaburger Mandela AllesKlarFastMandela Food Carlton Hotel Carlton Palm Grove Hotel Palm Grove Ali BabaSnackBar Ferry Guesthouse Michel’s Atlantic Hotel Atlantic King ofShwarma Café King 8am-11pm) ) About towards 3kmfromBanjul Thenameisas great asthefood
pais ( % Thisisaboutthe only restaurant 4223108; 29July22Dr;mealsD150-250;
( ( % %
BANJUL ••Sleeping ( 4228670; fax4227214;25July22 4228601; [email protected]; 4228601; [email protected]; (Ami’s Guesthouse; %
h ( %
4224055; Nelson Mandela St; 4224055; NelsonMandela ) ( 9am-5pm Mon-Sat) Thisvast,plushre- % 4201620; www.gambia h 4229799; Nelson Man- a
(Ecowas Ave; snacks 9am-5pm) ) Thissimple a % ) Thisis 4222028; More This
301 THE GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA -senegal-international.com; EcowasAve) Gambian artists. very few recordings boutiquesthatsell by andoneofto buyCDsandcassettes, the and digintoaplatter of grilledfish. tle beach barisagreat placetosipadrink Next tothePalm Grove Hotel, thisbusylit- the border (just after the junction where yourticketto purchase near atthe office ing from thenorthside by car,youneed be checked on theotherside. Ifyou’re com- waiting area; keep ituntilgetting off,asit’ll buy yourticket before tothe goingthrough trucks cansometimes bethere fordays).You couple of hours (ifit’sanyconsolation – havelimited, andyoumight towaitfora often outof action. delays arethough frequent andoneferry is from 7amuntil7pmandtake onehour, onetotwohours torunevery supposed on thenorthernbankof theriver. Theyare Ferries Boat West CoastAirways SN BrusselsAirlines Air SénégalInternational Air Guinée includethefollowing: Banjul jul, see p326 . Airlineofficesinandaround ofFor details toBan- international flights Air THERE&AWAY GETTING Sound Kerewan ally calledtheCraftMarket. cateringfind stalls mainlyfortourists,usu- and vegetable here market. you’ll Beyond the myriadcolours andflavours of thefruit can imagine. Keep goingandyou’llreach wares you else andjustabouteverything andelectrical household ing clothes,shoes, sell- the mainentrance,youwillpassstalls is AlbertMarket ( p300 ). Ifyouenter via thebestplacetogoshopping In Banjul, SHOPPING of freshly pressed juice. better,food, andwhat’seven large glasses 302 D150-200) 97 Kairaba Ave,97 Kairaba Fajara) 72 OAU Blvd) The ferries take vehicles, butcarspace is Near themainentrance,you’llalsofind Bacchius BeachBar BANJUL••Shopping
( % travel between Banjul and Barra, travel and Barra, Banjul between ( % 4228205; LiberationSt;passengersD10,cars 4223296; www.mirinet.com/airguinee; 4223296; www.mirinet.com/airguinee;
(Russell St) ( ( % %
( % 4201954; 7 Nelson Mandela St) 4201954; 7NelsonMandela 4496301/2; www.flysn.com; , Gambia’sbestplace ( % 4227948; mealsD150-300) 4472095; www.air the Atlantic Hotel. have to drive theprice. on, the steeper the roadsthey’ll destination –theworse out of thecity,mostdrivers charge by the resorts. andthecoastal Banjul Foratour and willbemore if you venture beyond Fajara,Serekunda, KotuorKololi. itcostsabout D150to D200toBakau, Banjul will costaboutD50, after bargaining. From citycentretrip’), ashortride acrossBanjul toyourself(known asa‘townIn ataxi Taxi Private July 22Sq.See p312 formore information. kama leave fromaroadsidecorneropposite July 22Dr. andBri- toSerekunda Minibuses oppositefrom thestand Shell on station Bakau. Fajara Serekunda, runbetween taxis and towns,whilesharedand theothercoastal Serekunda Banjul, runbetween Minibuses Taxi &Shared Minibus jul. There isnoairportbus. skills; expecttopayD150D200Ban- you paydependsentirely onyourhaggling is notrequired. the price Withyellowtaxis, rank,sobargaining atthetaxi on aboard destination. Fixed rates are usuallyprinted around D300toD400,dependingonyour Fajara,(Bakau, KotuandKololi)costs Kairaba Ave ortheAtlanticcoastresorts Serekunda,national AirporttoBanjul, Inter-A green fromBanjul touristtaxi To/From theAirport AROUND GETTING garage. see Fordetails, p312 . allgofromtheSerekunda southern Senegal, and upcountrytowns,toplacesin andMercedesMinibuses toBrikama buses Bush Taxi therisk). sharply after dark(asdoes can bedangerously overloaded. Fares rise –they warned though the wholeboat).Be a publicpirogueoraroundD600ifyouhire on journey(D50foraseat that dothesame can alsojumpontooneof thelarge pirogues about 3kmfromBarra. the northbank roadtoFarafenni turnsoff), The best place to find a taxi at night is at atnight The best place tofind ataxi atD1000, forthedaystarts Hiring ataxi leave toBakau minibuses From Banjul, If thewaitforferry istoo long,you www.lonelyplanet.com ing, in-your-face urbanWestAfrica. recommendedhighly forataste of unrelent- (in reality thetownisonebig market) is andpeople. Astroll arounditsmarkettraffic heaving with townisbursting attheseams drive eastwardsinSerekunda. Thishotand for the‘real Africa’here –thatliesashort beyond acoupleof streets. Don’tgolooking ate onacrammedspacestretching barely casinos, banksand,naturally,hustlers, oper- to tourism.Hotels, bars, clubs,touragencies, name,isGambia’sgreatestsame monument after thehotel ofbians as‘Senegambia’ the Kololi, bycontrast,knowntomostGam- steps awayfromthegleaminghotel fronts. and colourfulmarket beginsonlyafew stalls, concentration of corrugated clapboard, iron ter of thefourplaces.The‘oldtown’,alively hasretained thestrongestBakau localcharac- having toventure toofarfromthestrand. can alsoget afeel forAfricanculture without days here, spread-eagled onwhiteyou sand, vibrant nightlife andpacked beaches. of awideselection restaurants,houses, a ing holidayzone:rowsof hotels andguest- bustling area hasallthemakingsof athriv- heart of Gambia’stouristindustry.The Fajara toKotuandKololiisthebeating The 10kmstretch of and coastfromBakau &SEREKUNDA RESORTS ATLANTIC COAST www.lonelyplanet.com fic lights. fic lights. Kairaba Ave of at the country’s only set traf- beach areas of Kotu andKololi.It crosses at theFajara endand leadstothe hotel/ ParkBadala Waybranches Kairaba off Ave and stillbetter known asNewTownRd). lel toit,isGarba Jahumpa Rd(formerly, south of AtlanticRd,andrunning paral- linking Kairaba Ave Rd.Just andOldCape lantic Rd,which runs paralleltothecoast, Kotu andKololi. Kairaba Ave, Fajara, which leadstoBakau, andtothe leftis for about14kmtoBanjul; aheadisthedual carriagewayides: straight port andreaches where Serekunda, itdiv- International Air- pastBanjul towns goes fromGambia’supcountry The mainroad ORIENTATION While it’sperfectly possibleto passyour In Bakau andFajara,In Bakau themain dragisAt- ATLANTIC &SEREKUNDA••Orientation COAST RESORTS 11pm); Timbooktoo bookshop. macy chainsaround,withbranchesallalongthe coast. h at theback. shows andexhibitions. There’s agood,cheaprestaurant films, French andWolofcourses,hasregular concerts, Ave, AtthesouthernendofKairaba itruns 5pm Mon-Fri) Ave, .alliancefrance.gm; Kairaba Serekunda; Westfield Junction inSerekunda. Westfield Junction local andinternationalpapers. maps and mainstream fiction, non-fiction, range offiction, 10am-8pmSat)Anexcellentshopwithagood 3-7pm Fri, humpa Rd,Fajara; the official ones. the official are and therates high, aren’t better than risky to be worthwhile. Chances of fraud to change some cash after hours, it’s too youcan usuallyfindsomeone and though Gambia’s onceflourishing blackmarket, a better rate. of supermarkets, butyou’re unlikely toget around thebusy touristmiles,somepart are alsoafew exchange bureaus scattered a few hours onSaturdaymorning.There the afternoon from4pmto6pm,andfor from 8.30amor9amtonoon 2pm,in resort openinthe morning zone. Banks have branches andIBC all acrossthe Bank Chartered,The mainbanks,Standard Trust Money Westfield Clinic Pharmacy Stop Steps Council Research Medical Services Medical Quantumnet Gamtel have goodconnections: Ave Thefollowingusually iswellserved. large hotels have Internet cafés,andKairaba organised partof thecoast.Many of the onlineisn’taproblematthiswell Getting Access Internet Alliance Franco-Gambienne Centres Cultural Timbooktoo Bookshops INFORMATION run clinic,offAtlanticRd. illness, headforthisBritish- If youhaveapotentiallyserious Police have cracked seriously down on 9am-10pm Mon-Sat) One of the best-stocked phar- 9am-10pm Mon-Sat)Oneofthebest-stocked Serekunda
Kololi ( ( ( % % % (Westfield Junction; (WestfieldJunction; ( h % 4494345; cnr Kairaba Ave Ja- 4494345; cnrKairaba &Garba 4377878; Senegambia Strip; Strip; 4377878; Senegambia 4494514; 10am-7pm Mon-Thu, 10am-1pm& 4398448) Anotheroption,at ( % (MRC; (MRC; 4371344; Serekunda; 4371344; Serekunda; h ( % 8.30am-10pm) Next to 8.30am-10pm) Next % h 4375418; www 4495446; Fajara) 8am-11pm) h 9.30am- h
9am- 303 THE GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA 304 4 6 1 3 2 5 ATLANTIC COASTRESORTS&SEREKUNDA ATLANTIC &SEREKUNDA COAST RESORTS SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Praia Motel...... Ocean BayHotel&Resort...... Ngala Lodge...... Mannjai Lodge...... Leybato...... Kombo BeachHotel...... Kanifeng YMCA...... Kairaba Hotel...... Jabo Guesthouse...... Holiday BeachClubHotel...... Francisco's Hotel...... Fajara Guesthouse...... Effu's Villa...... Coconut Residence...... Cape PointHotel...... (see42) Balmoral Appartments...... Bakotu Hotel...... Bakau Lodge...... Kachikaly CrocodilePool...... Fajara GolfClub...... Botanic Gardens...... Bijilo ForestParkHeadquarters... Batafon Arts...... Westfield Clinic...... Trust BankKololi...... Trust BankBakau...... Tropical Tour&Souvenirs...... (see36) Timbooktoo...... Swedish Consul...... (see10) Stop StepsPharmacy...... (see59) Serekunda...... Standard CharteredBank Standard CharteredBankBakau.. Senegalese HighCommission..... Quantumnet...... (see 18) Post Office...... Olympic Travel...... (see18) Norwegian Consul...... (see10) Medical ResearchCouncil...... Mauritanian Consulate...... IBC BankSerekunda...... Guinea-Bissau Embassy...... (see16) German Consul...... Gamtel Office...... Gamtel Office...... Gamtel Office...... (see19) Gambia RiverExperience...... French Embassy...... Danish Consul...... (see10) British HighCommission...... Bellview Airlines...... Belgian Consul...... (see36) American Embassy...... Alliance Franco-Gambienne...... Afri-Swiss Travels...... A
Sayer Jobe Ave Sukuta Rd) 17 91 64 0 0 &SerekundaAtlantic CoastResorts 93 8 21 Westfield 72 Junction 0.1 miles 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 77 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 200 m G6 H2 F3 E5 E3 D4 G4 C6 H2 C6 E3 E3 G3 C6 C6 E4 G2 A5 G2 F4 G5 F3 C6 G6 G3 C6 B6 F3 H2 E3 G5 F4 G5 F4 H3 E4 G2 C6 G5 B6 C6 G2 F3 DRINKING Weezo's ...... (see71) Paparazzi...... (see 50) Lana's Bar...... Come Inn...... (see56) Churchill's...... (see 62) Chapman's ...... (see54) Aquarius...... (see 60) Restaurant...... Youth MonumentBar& Yok...... (see 83) Weezo's...... Sunshine Bar...... Solomon's BeachBar...... (see79) St Mary'sFood&Wine...... St Mary'sFood&Wine...... Sailor's BeachBar...... Safe WayAfraKing...... Ritz...... Pepper's TropicalRestaurant....(see81) Ocean Clipper...... (see42) Maroun's...... Mama's Restaurant...... Luigi's ItalianRestaurant...... Le PalaisduChocolat...... La RiveGauche...... (see38) La Pailotte...... (see2) Kora...... Kairaba Supermarket...... Harry's Supermarket...... Francisco's Restaurant...... (see33) Eddie's Bar&Restaurant...... Gallery...... (see62) Crystals IceCreamParlourand Come Inn...... Clay Oven...... Chapman's...... Butcher's Shop...... Atlantic Bar&Restaurant...... Ali Baba's...... Al Basha...... Aisa MarieCinema...... Teranga Suites...... Senegambia Hotel...... (see36) Sarge's Hotel...... Safari GardenHotel...... Romana Hotel...... Roc Height'sLodge...... EATING B ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ Bijilo Forest Park 23 36 Kololi Point 34
47 Senegambia Strip Senegambia 62 73 72 71 70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 61 60 59 58 57 56 SHOPPING 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 51 F4 C6 F5 F4 E3 F5 F3 G2 E3 G2 C6 C6 F6 D5 C6 E3 G2 H2 D5 F6 B6 E3 H2 H2 F4 E4 F5 E3 A6 E3 9 Tanji (8km); Kartong(38km) C 60 To Gambia Tours(1km); Kololi 81 20 80 75 30 TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT Jokko...... Jazziz...... Destiny...... Arena)...... Arena BabouFatty(Wrestling Tippa Garage...... Taxi Stand...... SN Brussels...... Slokair...... Shared TaxistoFajara&Bakau.. Serekunda...... Minibuses toBanjul& Minibuses toBanjul...... Minibuses toBanjul...... Hertz...... (see 97) Green TaxiRank...... Cars4Rent...... Bus &TaxiStop...... AB Rent-A-Car...... (see36) Village Gallery&Restaurant...... Salam Batik...... Batik Factory...... African LivingArtCentre...... African HeritageCentre...... Waaw Nightclub...... Tropicana Nightclub...... Totties Nightclub...... (see81) Teranga BeachClub...... Lama Lama...... 50 95 12 Badala Park Way
29
79 Palma Rima Rd Rima Palma 62 76 Point Kotu 89 www.lonelyplanet.com
48 Kololi Rd Kololi 86 D 97 96 95 94 93 92 91 90 89 88 87 86 85 84 83 82 81 80 79 78 77 76 75 74 F6 G2 C5 F4 B6 G2 A6 F6 D5 D4 F6 D5 F6 F6 F3 G2 C6 C6 C5 G2 B6 D5 C5 F6 88 38 www.lonelyplanet.com Atlantic Coast Resorts &SerekundaAtlantic CoastResorts Kotu 40 Strand Mannjai Kunda Kotu 28 67
Badala Park To Sukuta Camping(1.5km);
Kotu E Sukuta (2km)
Way
39 Stream 65 25 32 33 63 5 71 46 57 53 18 Fajara
Atlantic Rd A TLNIC 55 97 Kairaba Ave (Pipeline Rd) (Pipeline Ave Kairaba 41 O CEAN Garba Jahumpa Rd 13 68
Sukuta Rd Serekunda 94 F 74 83 Serekunda 15 1 Market 49 58
66 Mosque Rd Mosque 3 Mosque 61
90 (New 73 59 Footbridge 84 85 87 56 Town Rd) Football 7 16 22 Field ATLANTIC &SEREKUNDA COAST RESORTS 11 19 14 96 Independence 2 37 Enlargement See 4 Jetty 92 Stadium
78 Westfield
43 Junction
Kombo Kombo Sillah Dr Sillah Church Catholic Kanifeng 82 G 45 Market Bakau Reserve (7km); Lamin (9km); 52 Banjul International Airport (15km); Brikama(21km) Market Craft
To AbukoNature Sayer Jobe Ave (Sukuta Rd)
Jim 24
27 pex Rd pex 10 31 54 35
ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ 26
0 0 Crocodile Pool Rd Cape Old Kachikaly Bakau Cape Point 44
To DentonBridge(11km); 6 Saitmatty Rd Saitmatty 69 Some MinorRoads 42 Not Depicted 70 ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ
H
Banjul (14km) (Cape Rd) (Cape 0.5 miles 1 km
305
4 6 1 3 2 5 THE GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA materials, maps,booksandinsightfuladvice. materials, Hotel)Agreat placeforinformation gamtel.gm; Kairaba the ShellPetrol Station. Serekunda IBC Bank D2000. very usuallynotexceeding tight, you’ll alsofindthatwithdrawallimitsare tends towork.Unlessthingshave changed, accept thewholerange of cards,onlyVISA facilities. Even claimto theymight though the bankslisted belowallhave withdrawal between Fajara andSerekunda. .gambiariver.com; Fajara) tours. Hasexcellentriver Gambia Tours Gambia Experience River Gambia Travels Afri-Swiss agencies include thefollowing: Efficient Agencies Travel Tropical Tour&Souvenirs information Tourist andprivateand Serekunda, There are Kololi Gamtel inBakau, offices Telephone postoffice Main Post Mastercards forafee. Hotel gives cashadvanceson Senegambia nexttothe Office The GambiaExperience Trust Bank Bank Standard Chartered 306 area is the unwanted attention of ‘bum- ticularly after dark. should avoid beingaloneon beaches, par- andthebeaches.golf course Single women ally, particularly on thepatharoundFajara Petty occuroccasion- theftsandmuggings DANGERS &ANNOYANCES Olympic Travel off CoastalRd)Alarge,independentoperator. ( Badala Park Way,near‘Senegambia’); enquiries. enquiries. tours,and allgeneral tickets, A goodplaceforbooking standing Alsodoesticketing. operatorwithgoodreports. Fajara. Kairaba andjustoff in Serekunda Ave in are(phone offices) everywhere, particularly % ATMs have finallyreached Gambiaand One of the major annoyances in this ATLANTIC &SEREKUNDA••DangersAnnoyances COAST RESORTS 4398042; WestfieldJunction) ( % ( % Bakau 4396102; Kairaba Ave)4396102; Kairaba ( 4377878; Sukuta Rd, Serekunda) Next to Next Rd,Serekunda) 4377878; Sukuta ( % %
( (just off Kairaba Ave) offKairaba It’sabouthalfway (just % ( 4462601/2; www.gambiatours.gm; % 4497204; Garba Jahumpa Rd) Jahumpa 4497204; Garba 4495486); 4371762; Fajara) Along- ( ( Bakau Bakau % % Kololi 4494360; www 4460536; tropicaltour@ ( % Serekunda ( % 4495046); télécentres 4465303;
child D50/free; other artefacts ondisplay. lection of musicalinstrumentsandvarious the entrancetopool,there’s alsoacol- lethargic be patted. ‘Charley’caneven At out having yourlegchewed Thelarge, off. with- great crocodilesup-close, placetosee power of fertility. Fortourists,thepoolisa here to pray, asthecrocodilesrepresent the a sacred site, andtheytraditionallycome popular touristattraction.Forlocals,it’s itional uses. itional uses. little abouttheir natural history and trad- buy asmall booklet(D30) thattells youa ers. Many trees are labelled, andyoucan trees are large, andcovered dense increep- Further back,away fromthedunes, palmsjustbehind. and lowbush,with tall dunes nearthebeach are covered ingrass ous birds(mainly onthecoastside).The monkeys andnumer- see and you’lleasily lengths thelushvegetation, leads through of series trails ofmaintained different walk (4.5km,onetotwohours). Awell- visit, eitheronyourown,or a guided walk fromKololi.It’sabeautiful placeto onthecoast, justashort wildlife reserve and goodbird-spottingchances. offers someshadeincalmsurroundings, lonial times,andare apeacefulplace that They were in1924,duringco- established e h T Park Bijilo Forest the Also inBakau, Botanic Gardens Crocodile Pool In theheartof village, Bakau the CrocodilePool Kachikaly SIGHTS raba Hotel. outsideKai-tourist guides(OTGs) based of theofficial safety, rely ontheservices in declininganyunwanted offers, andfor firmbutpolite particularly towomen.Be their persistence canbeannoyingindeed, their onlychance of makingmoney.Still, as tourists andoffering services sexual hustling means thatmanyyoungmensee welfare unemployment system andhigh as guidesontotravellers. Thelackof any tourist areas, almostforcingtheirservices sters’ or‘beach boys’,wholoiter inthe park
(admission D30;
h
(admission D25; 8am-4pm) gardens h are worthalook. 8am-6pm) h ( % 9am-6pm) 7774482; adult/ is asmall Kachikaly Kachikaly isa and (D400) can bearranged on request. to 6.30pmWed) Fjr Gl Club Golf Fajara Golf specialises inbluewaterfishing. ‘Greenie’ Green Malcolm gambiafishing.freeserve.co.uk) Gamefishing Greenies The Fishing ACTIVITIES www.lonelyplanet.com African Dance African lar. in TheSafari GardensHotel hasclasses Drumming anddancingcourses are popu- COURSES trips. windsurfing orcatamaran parasailing, tothem toorganise yourjet-skiing, straight at DentonBridge, aswellgo soyoumight are runbythe water sportstoguests.Mostof theiractivities offer various Atlantic andComboBeach, Some of thelarge OceanBay, hotels, notably Watersports soft drink. or buyyourswimwithasandwich anda you’re have notaguest,youmight topay, major hotels have swimmingpools.If are in Fajara and Kotu. Thebestbeaches gradually disappearing. strandsthatlurethe sand touristshere are coastline suffers badlyfromerosion,and inthezone. year Theentiredrown every tions locallybefore plungingin–peopledo sometimes bestrong.Alwayscheck condi- currentssafe forswimming,though can Most beaches inthisarea are relatively Swimming 4392517; www.batafonarts.co.uk; Kairaba Ave, Kairaba Serekunda) 4392517; www.batafonarts.co.uk; Gambia Fishing Gambia are there. based fishing tours. Thetwofollowing companies ton Bridge istheplacetoorganise your the day.Enquire aboutrates. ton. Temporary membership isavailable by and courtsfortennis, squashandbadmin- main golfcourse. Theclubalsohasapool experienced anglersandthosenewtothegame. experienced andabletoaccommodateboth They’re veryfriendly .com) Specialisesinlure andanchored bottomfishing. Batafon Arts If the Atlantic doesn’t appeal,alltheIf theAtlanticdoesn’t African Drumming African Sportsfishing Centre Sportsfishing . Half or all daybatikcourses
(per personD50; (
% ( ( Watersports Centre Watersports % % 7721228; www.gambiafishing in UK 01273 605791, in Gambia in UK 01273 605791, inGambia 4495456) ( % (perperson D150;
9907073; greenies@ ( % isthecountry’s % 7765765) 6pm to7pmTue)
( % atDen- % ATLANTIC &SEREKUNDA••Activities COAST RESORTS 7765765) 5.30pm
B&B D175) dia are experienced overland travellers, and andClau- rooms. Thefriendly owners Joe west of Sere kunda) alsooffers comfortable organised camping site (south- inSukuta of the Bakau ’hood. Excellent value.of ’hood.Excellent theBakau intheheart comes asareal right surprise, aroundaswimmingpoolbungalows set This smallplacewithspotless,two-room yahoo.co.uk; AtlanticRd; rD350) yahoo.co.uk; your peacewiththisplace. pretty gardenspace,you’llprobablymake thedoorandsitin but ifyouclose s/d D235/340, dwithbathroom D465) campingper person D100,pervehicleD14, .de inGerman; catering facilities. ingly large, cleanrooms,somewithself- Teranga Suites KOTU YMCA Kanifeng FAJARA d D500) Jabo Guesthouse BAKAU Budget top places. able tonegotiate atthe abetter even deal, you’llalmostalwaysbe of thepeakseason thatifyou’repetition issointense here out to grottydives ontheAtlanticcoast.Com- fromplushresortsYou’ll findeverything SLEEPING drumming holidays. lessonstodance tuition,fromone-off offers excellentAfricanpercussion and bathrooms unless otherwise specified. bathrooms unlessotherwise for independenttravellers. All rooms have ofa goodcross-section options,especially Sukuta SEREKUNDA families (cotscan bearranged). of really mattresses. comfortable Perfect for woodendécorandthatrarity with bright, suites has airyroomsandlarge, self-catering for the self-contained onesonthetopfloor.for theself-contained roomsforthebudget-bound.passable Ask D500/750/1000; Romana Hotel Bakau Lodge Bakau The listhere isnotexhaustive, butgives Thisdown-to-earthplacehassurpris-
Camping Camping Thehuge buildinghasjustabout s
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% ) % % ( Thisjewelof aguesthouse ( % % 4392647; www.ymca.gm; Kanifeng; 4392647; www.ymca.gm; Kanifeng; /fax 4496103;dfromD650; 4494906, 7777082;9OldCapeRd; 4461961; offKololiRd;s/d/ste 9917786; www.campingsukuta 4495127; aframsromanahotel@ Roomsare basic, Thiswell- 307 s
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THE GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA equipped kitchen. has stylishroomsandapartments with fully three-storey villasitsinaquietgarden,and this niceare arare treat anywhere. This for directions, it’sfive minutes fromthere. Grill (belowtheSwedishEmbassy) andask female travellers. Find your waytoTina’s in ahassle-free zone,thisisperfect forlone haveeven hotwater. Runbyawoman and lodgings. Roomsare and spacious,clean, pound intoquite impressive self-catering hasturnedafew roomsinhercom- Effu one of the best locations anywhere onthe overlookscosy guesthouse from theocean touristpalacesnextdoor.mighty low-keyand ispleasantly compared tothe inattractivefamily-run placeisset gardens, as Beach; d D800-900, with kitchen D1200) Beach; dD800-900, withkitchen Hotel Garden Safari FAJARA Road;s/dD1000/1500) lodge.com; SambaBreku Point Hotel Cape BAKAU cept credit cards. their ownbathroomandmosthotels ac- Allroomshavetop-end establishments. with individualtravellers than thelarger, owner-managed, andmore todealing used of thehotelsSeveral inthis range are small, Midrange cheap too. beer, full of advice and serves is eration. Amiablemanager, MrCeesay, part of are Serekunda worth yourconsid- simplebutcleanroomsinaverythese local A few minutes’ SayerJobeAve, walkoff repair advice. shopsandcarsales includinglong-term parking, need, might have of thought adesert-driver everything 308 s/d inclbreakfast D950/1600; well-informed. Management isfriendlyandexceptionally vour’s restaurant, thehotel’s centre piece. animated conversations tobehadinFla- you beabletotear awayfromthe yourself hereforward tospending thenight – should ingly decorated rooms thatmake youlook popular placeinthe heartof Fajara haspleas- Effu’s Villa Effu’s Roc Height’sLodge Praia Motel Leybato ATLANTIC &SEREKUNDA••Sleeping COAST RESORTS ) Attheeastendof AtlanticRd,this
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top of tops. surroundings, this wouldbeconsidered the looks alittlepale, butinlessglamorous HotelNext totheKairaba, theSenegambia in cottonwool. addressright foraholidaybreak wrapped to leave duringyourwhole holiday.The arranged betempted placeyoumight not of vast,labyrinthine,anything-can-be- This government-owned hotel isthekind ical gardensandcarefully designed rooms. character flavours theairof thelushtrop- come wrappedinsophisticated chic, and traded forsoul.Allamenitiesand services few tophotels where luxuryhasn’tbeen this classyfive-star palace. It’s oneof the There isn’tanicerhotel inthecountrythan Atlantic Rd;steD3750; ais beachhotel.gm; KotuBeach;s/dfromD1530/2040; s/d D1250/1500; Bakotu Hotel KOTU Ngala Lodge FAJARA live uptothe5stars. doesn’t baby sittingandcarrental, service though www.lonelyplanet.com areas todine inWest Africa. There isno resortsthe Atlantic coast oneof thebest Mass tourism hasmadethe area around EATING s/dD2205/2695; bia.com; Senegambia; ence.com; BadalaPark Way;stefromD5500; Coconut Residence KOLOLI by Gambia Experience clients. by GambiaExperience it’s usuallybooked up season, During high sculptures intomoderndesigns. teased ated rooms;thinkAfricanmaterials and red-clay structure lovingly houses decor- .com; Senegambia; s/dD4352/5235; .com; Senegambia; The upstairs roomsare particularlynice. (and mostexpensive) restaurants around. andoneofa nightclub themostrenowned ans ongrouptours, facilitieshere include pleasant garden. pleasant and hascomfyterrace apartmentsina understated,neighbours, this ispleasantly Senegambia Hotel Senegambia Hotel Kairaba Kombo BeachHotel ) Afavourite withyoungEurope-
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small supermarkets intheheartof Bakau. Food &Wine exclusivity. terranean andAsian of food withadose Medi-Hotel complex,thislushplaceserves spotless. decent astheywere cheap, andthekitchen visited. Gambianmealsandsnackswere as youngsters outwhenwe wasjuststarting style placerunbyacoupleof enterprising Point; brunch (D200)from10am to4pm. perfection. They alsodoameanSunday tofull,tasty Driss, andis roundedoff personal attention fromownerandstar-chef dripping three-course dinners –comeswith here –fromtherich localjuicestoflavour- of thebestrestaurants Everything attached. area intooneof the bestbutchers withone morphed fromoneof thebestbutchers inthe the menuisvariedanddrinksflow. go’. It’susuallypacked withamixed crowd, to call this‘theplacewhere seems everyone clad crowd. beach often gets lively withayoungbikini- 11pm) Ave;gambia.com; 130Kairaba dishesD169-285; tic Rd;dishesfromD60; Butcher’s Shop Fajara BarandRestaurant Atlantic Bakau tastebuds. you canfindsomereal gems totickleyour theculinarygrey,of theglobe. Between a handfulof dishesfromallfourcorners offer oftaurants asimilarmenu, composed shortage of many res- placestoeat,though Mama themanager. dinnersbuffet asforthe rawcharm of place isas much renowned foritsdelicious bian andinternational food,thisvibrant Gam- places serving the mostestablished meals aroundD150-250; dishes aroundD100; 8pm) h For self-catering options,try For self-catering Sunshine Bar Mama’s Restaurant Mama’s Ocean Clipper Chapman’s Yok 12:30pm-midnight) Thissimple,relaxed onthe barright ThisMoroccanplacehasgradually h
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9am-7.30pm Mon- has thebest Atranquil 4464792; Sene- ( 24hr)
% ( % 4460280; Inthe 7774567; Harry’s So
on themenu. someof tocontain everything D500) seem mixed platters forfourpeople(perperson from aroundtheworld.Theirenormous range atasty of This plushplacedoes meals movie tostart. watching zone,whilewaitingforyourB- andbuyasnackingreatsip abeer people - as formatches onscreen. as much loved forcheap foodanddrinks local favourite isimpressively namedand Kairaba Ave;Kairaba the best beer option,while the bestbeer passing hour, andthe Fajara, taste sweeter with every thecocktails Sat, 10am-1.30pmSun) Serekunda. eral others scattered the streets through of entrance,andsev- market station andtaxi There are cheap several eateries aroundthe Serekunda urdays, there’s band. alive salsa Gambian disheshere. OnFridaysandSat- food,andexcellentthe bestCaribbean www.lonelyplanet.com ( InBakau, music upatnight. restaurants downand the turnthelights All themajor hotels have bars andmost DRINKING wiches, this greasy jointforyears for midnight) D300; near Kololibeach. At to thislocalsupermarket. local andimported foodandtoiletries,go change. Checkitout. ing shows,butmanagement wasaboutto suit’n’tie attitudeandoccasionalbellydanc- placewith this wasanice-coolLebanese in character. nearSerekunda Bar, Lana’s house. style beer Junction; mealsaroundD100; Junction; Rima Rd; Rima rican dishes. andotherAf- cassava, similartopolenta) % Maroun’s Safe Way Afra King Safe WayAfra Youth MonumentBar&Restaurant Al Basha Kora The bars are in Serekunda more local Aisa Marie Cinema Aisa Marie 4495252; AtlanticRoad; h ( h Shoestringers have descendedonto % 11am-2am) fufu h
11am-1am) 462727; dishesD200-375; (
% (Westfield Junction; (Westfield Junction; 10am-2am) (adishmadefrompounded 4463300; Senegambia Strip; mealsfrom Strip; 4463300; Senegambia Atthetimewevisited, Forthebasics,such as (Serekunda Market) (Serekunda isanEnglish-style pub
(dishes CFA50-150; is aproper, German- h h Weezo’s Come Inn 11am-10pm Thu-Tue) lunch &dinner) h Churchill’s h 9am-7.30pm Mon-
(Atlantic Rd)
afra lunch &dinner) ( % Chapman’s Youcan (Westfield ATLANTIC &SEREKUNDA••Drinking COAST RESORTS , sand- h 4391464;
(Palma This 5pm- in is
arriving before 11pm. thinkabout around 9pm,butdon’teven lot more. Clubsusuallyopentheirdoors dancemusic),reggaegalese andawhole bia; [email protected]; Palma Rd; Rima [email protected]; entertaining clubofentertaining all. makes aconvincing claimof beingthemost that isaraucous localaffair in Serekunda egambia). and acousticmusic. buffet beach parties(D100)withseafood concerts byvisitingartists,andfull-moon occasional jazzafternoons, large-scale by arenowned Gambianmusician,holds the dancebeatsafter 10pm. h Way) ( hop, R&B, to cater –amixture toeveryone of hip- present punters withaglobalmixthattries like Gambia’srestaurants, thenightclubs or aslicktemple of danceyou’re after. Just Coast, whetherit’sarootsy,rowdy shack a heaving dancefloorontheAtlantic You don’thave toohardtofind tosearch Nightclubs vast The Music Live ENTERTAINMENT of Rd. Sukuta onacorner market, isasmallall-day affair bars, including upmarketKololi, youwillfindseveral Way, Kololi) (Sene gambia) (Sene while theopen-air popular whether aplaceisinorout.The hugely the dancefloorcreatures thatdetermine techno-heavy the asdoes hot andsweaty late at night, weekends. research, and drawing glittering crowds on and theatmosphere unbeatable. Fridays andSaturdays.Themusicislive placethatgets swingingon colourful salsa feature occasionallive bandsonweekends. % At thetimeof writing,the Jazziz Around thetouristareas of Kotuand Several of listed thenightclubs belowalso Several 10pm-3am) 4494747) h , still known to locals as Spy Bar, gets, stillknowntolocals asSpyBar, 10am-3am) NextdoortoWaaw,
( % wassparkling newatthe timeof Tropicana NightClub Teranga BeachClub mbalax is aclubwithchic dance floor, was Bakau’s clubof wasBakau’s choice for 4462175; , achic winebar. Bothturnup Waaw Nightclub and Aquarius (percussion-driven, Sene- h Jokko 10pm-late) Paparazzi
Destiny ( %
h
(Westfield Junction) (
Totties Nightclub 4460247; Senegam- % (
% Ayoungand 10am-2am) (off BadalaPark (offBadala Park
9982669; abdul 4460668; Sen- Lama (Senegambia; , run 311
THE GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA hairdressers. well as home toGambia’s best European works, antiques andoriginal souvenirs, as tion –a place torummage forqualityart- factory factory quality batiks.MusuKebba Drammeh’s works ondisplay. the exquisiteness of his foodtothatof the café where abusychef trieshardtomatch upcoming localartists.Italsohas asmall Village Gallery &Restaurant Gallery Village to growintoanimpressive business.The taken atthetimewevisited, off andislikely their TropicalGardensproject. Ithadjust and fashion.Whilethere, of informationmaterials, books,maps,arts Jahumpa Rd,Fajara)Jahumpa cal Tour&Souvenirs the back).Anotherexcellentoptionis andafewtaurant pretty guestroomsdown range of original stock(aswellasagoodres- Heritage agreat Centre, littleboutiquewitha the church, you’llfindthebeautifulAfrican other souvenirs. Opposite themarket, nextto traditionalclothand the rimswithcarvings, to stuffed and hasanadjacentcraftssection MarketBakau fruitandvegetables, sells SHOPPING isthe however, The more excitingplacetowatch wrestling, football andtraditionalwrestling matches. –thesite for major inBakau ence Stadium isIndepend- The Gambia’smainstadium Sports Spectator 312 .gm) midnight) Salam Batik drivers and localscangive youdirections). watching thebatiksbeing made(mosttaxi small workshopisalmostasmuch fun as streets of andtrackingdownthe Serekunda, local radioandposters forevents. drivertaxi barmen,orcheck orSerekunda months of November andDecember –aska beforehand. Yourbestchance isduringthe tohearaboutthem it’s notoriouslydifficult late afternoon, usuallyonSunday,though Road inSerekunda. Matches take placeinthe a coupleof hundred metres southof Sukuta personalised clothes dyedandtailored.personalised London Corner,Serekunda) Secka Serekunda istheplacetohuntforgood- Serekunda African Living Art Centre Centre LivingArt African , ahassle-free placewithagoodrange ATLANTIC &SEREKUNDA••Shopping COAST RESORTS % ( % sells originalworksbyrenowned sells and 982 0125; [email protected]; 982 0125;[email protected]; 4392258)
(Amadou Jallow is something of aninstitu- Arena BabouFattyArena is hidden deep intheback ishiddendeep ( % istheplacetoget your 4460536; tropicaltour@gamtel %
( % 4395103, Sheikh Tijan4395103, Sheikh ask themabout ( % 4463646; 4495131; Garba 4495131; Garba
(off Sukuta Rd) (off Sukuta h Tropi- 10am- batik , 4WDs canonlybehired withadriver. Total Station Boketh on Kairaba Ave. Shared andminibuses taxis dropped atthe Garba Jahumpa Rdjunction Ave. For Fajara, tobe it’s usuallynecessary Gamtel onthesouthend of office Kairaba gofrom outsidethe shared toBakau taxis jul citycentre orSerekunda. InSerekunda, can get toBan- shared and minibuses taxis junction of SaitmattyandAtlantic Rds,you atthe D6.FromBakau, cost D5,toBanjul Shared aroundtheAtlanticresorts taxis TaxiShared Hertz operation. Elton BadalaOasis,Kotu)Asmaller,butequallyrecommended Cars4Rent AB Rent-a-Car panies includethefollowing: Some of themostreliable carhire com- rates are daysormore. available forseven required (around D25,000)anddiscounted 23 years orover, refundable depositsare around D2000for4WDs.Drivers mustbe upto andgoes mileage tax, and15%sales hire aroundD800,exclusiveCar starts of &Motorcycle Car ing uponyourpowers of negotiation. less,depend- costaboutD150,oreven taxis resortto anyAtlanticcoast isD400.Yellow isD300,and national airporttoSerekunda inter-A green fromBanjul touristtaxi To/From theAirport AROUND GETTING viatheborderatSéléti. southern Senegal toKafountineSerekunda andZiguinchor in (mainlyPeugeots)tion. Bushtaxis gofrom for Brikamaleave fromWestfieldJunc- andve orfromSenegambia, Serekunda hicles of theriver leave fromtheTippa Garage in road.Directcoastal tothesouth bushtaxis whether viaBrikamaordirectly alongthe toGunjur isD30, yang (D18).Abushtaxi toBrufut(D12),Tanjitaxis (D15)andSan- ing forthesouthcoastyoucanget bush and toFarafenni it’sD75.Ifyou’re head- toSomaisD60, whole country.Serekunda themaintransporthubfor Serekunda, departfromthegaragesBush taxis of THERE&AWAY GETTING reviews foryears.reviews Hashadconsistentlygood .gm; HotelKololi,Senegambia) ([email protected]); ([email protected]); ( % ( 7782848; [email protected]; % ( % 4460926; abrentacar@gamtel 4390041) Slightlymore expensive. Airport www.lonelyplanet.com ( % /fax 4473156); D1500. shouldcostaroundD1000to and Banjul foradayaroundtheAtlanticresortstaxi which isusuallycharged atD25.Hiringa Fajara, Bakau, tween KololiandKotu, rates, exceptthe‘towntrip’,anytripbe- a yellowcab. D150in pay aroundD350bytouristtaxi, fromFajaraa touristtaxi you’ll toBanjul, twice therate charged For byyellowtaxis. enter. Fares are fixed, usually more than are thathave theonlytaxis permissionto areas, strip,they such astheSenegambia larger hotels. Insomeof tourist thedense Green usuallywaitoutsidethe ‘touristtaxis’ Taxi Private park. taxi of market Serekunda andgototheKololi to Kololileave fromthenorthwestcorner www.lonelyplanet.com lage Museum attraction, thanks tothecharming some 50kmfurthersouth.Tanji isamajor borderattheriver Hallahein,Senegalese the villages of tothe theSouthCoast,right takes road youpast Kololi, asmoothtarmac Moving and onsouthwardsfromSerekunda Tanji &Around &INLAND SOUTH COAST sliceoffictionalised history. villages Jufureh andAlbreda tempt with a perience locallife. Onthenorthbank, the of invitingvisitors coast, white-sand toex- from masstourism,linethesouthern strip Small fishingvillages, stillfairlysheltered experience of Gambiannature andculture. tourism gives more waytoaslightly intimate ling resort zones,thebig-business sideof Heading inlandorsouthwardfromthe bust- WESTERN GAMBIA D200 D100/25; Reserve Reserve there are also 34 raptor species. Thenearby waders andwaterbirds are themost prolific, 300 species have recorded. been Although species and Europeanmigrants; more than ofselection birds,including indigenous range of here habitats attractsanexcellent scrub.Thewide dry woodlandand coastal Yellow generally don’thave taxis fixed h 8am-6pm) h ( % 9am-5pm) 9919219; admissionD31.50, guidedwalks
( % ,
an area of dunes,lagoons, 9926618; [email protected]; adult/child and the Tanji River BirdTanji River Tanji Vil- WESTERN GAMBIA••SouthCoast&Inland www.natureswaygambia.com; camping D250, dD1750) where roomsare simplebutattractive. kilometres further south, ful, friendly hotel with alocal feel. Five artisans. courses andexcursions toherbalistsand beach. Theyoffer drummingor dancing tropical forest andalongstretch of white simple, pretty alush hutsplacedbetween ing beach bars andacoupleof hotels, includ- with ascattering ofyang Beach, crowded incl breakfast D400) the excellent surprising choice of including placestostay, of informalworkers’ bars.There’s beach a can watch thebusyscenefromanumber ing theirglistening catch ontheshore. You pressive of sight piroguesrollingin,unload- bustling Gunjur beach tempts withtheim- One of Gambia’slargest fishingcentres, Gunjur &Beach village with avisittotherapidlyurbanisingfishing there. AtriptoTanji couldbecombined but thewildlife departmentto take tourists with otherguides–it’sillegalforanyone (D500) here. Don’tvisitthisbirdsanctuary department organises occasionalboattours thewildlifegull. Outsidebreeding season, of tern andthegrey-headed theCaspian breedingBijol Islandisanimportant site 4486026; per personinclbreakfast D400) dula.com; s/d D510/680) person inclbreakfast D660) Lodge lected place. Abetter optionis the rootsy courses. Alittlefurther southinTujering, runs excellentbirdingexcursions andmusic located amidstmangroves andforest, and the village, the food and attractsover 100bird species.In an extensive garden that grows organic toilets, solarpower, afreshwater pooland an attractive placecomplete withcompost 2km walkfromBrufutbeach. Lodge tions. Themostattractive isthe hassomegoodaccommodationop- office, and Tanji Village, 3kmsouthof thereserve ings were beingbuiltatthetimeof research, Further southisthewhite bandof San- In Brufut,acoupleof lodg- multi-star Sanyang Nature Camp Sanyang Nature
( ( % % Brufut 9984838; www.salla.se/kkl; rperpersonD250) 8800209; www.paradiseinngarden.com;rper Bendula Lodge –theTanji isa office reserve Footsteps EcoLodge Footsteps , a secluded but slightly neg- butslightly , asecluded African Lodge African has accommodationin , which isstunningly
( % ( Balaba Nature Camp Balaba Nature % 9902408; perperson
7717481; www.ben ( % isapeace-
Paradise Inn ( % 4486143; fax Kobokoto 7706830; 313 –
THE GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA val initiatives includes therootsy ( 314 tion and the inspiring local tourist organisa- range of qualityaccommodation choices cation neartheAllahein River, agrowing spots fortourism, duetoitsstunninglo- ing intooneof Gambia’smost attractive Picturesque Kartong isgradually turn- Kartong % watching excursions. drumming anddancingcourses andbird- savanna woodland, thatoffersamid dense friendly camp,sat back, environmentally % Wsen Gambia Western WESTERN GAMBIA Boboi BeachLodge
Sanyang Tujering Island 4495887; www.safarigarden.com) ( Point Bijol Point WESTERNGAMBIA••SouthCoast&Inland Sanyang 9919012; hutsperpersonfromD550) % A TLNIC Kartong Beach Bird Reserve Beach KART Gunjur Tanji River Bator Sateh Beach O CEAN Tujering Tanji 8900411, 7730535; www.kartongfestival.com). 8900411, 7730535; www.kartongfestival.com). Brufut Beach Sanyang
Kartong (Kartong Association for Responsible Tourism; Tourism; AssociationforResponsible (Kartong Camp Nature Sanyang Gunjur Brufut Allahein ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ Museum Tanji Village Eco Lodge Footsteps Ghana Town
Bendula Lodge Kachuma River Tanji Camp Nature Balaba Kololi Brufuts Woods Kotu To Kabadio(10km); Jambanjali
Kafountine (24km) All ah Nature Reserve Fajara Sifoe ein R Sukuta Park Forest Bijilo
iver Yundum Bakau Banjul Nding Jambur Dombondir Darsilami Kiti Abuko Serekunda ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ . Their Point Cape Latri Sabiji Kanifing Marakissa Kartong Festi- Kartong Brikama isalaid- Airport International Banjul Lamin Denton Bridge Dimbaya
Busura range of Wetland Reserve Wardner Tanbi Lamin Lodge Beach Mandinari Séléti Madiyana Lodge Creek Oyster Ginak Island Mandinaba Giboro Basori To Ziguinchor Ὀ Ὀ Kuloro Faraba Banta Forest Culture Makasutu Barra (78km) BANJUL National Point Barra Niumi Omortoh (Charles Island) Park ὅὅ Dog Island Douassu crocodile pool your hotel orKART fortours tothesacred ards. Ifyoulike yourreptiles inthewild,ask has somesmallcages withsnakes andliz- Gallery ( bird-watching tours –askatthe Kartong is agreat placeforpirogueand SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES paintings and sculptures at fixed prices. where quality batiks, you canpurchase of pretty rooms forrent, and a boutique lent contemporary artgallerywith acouple stop bythe for D500.Or,ifyou prefer snakes to birds, Theyarrangeian Restaurant. one-hourtours % Pirang Dog Island Sotokoi Essau A real Kartong gem is the Point Ginak 9957694) Niji ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ ὅὅ ὅὅ Faraba Banta Kanuma To Kaolack(83km);
Ga Mbangkama Dakar (275km) ( % Taibatu Bakendik
Duniajoe
S ENGAL mb ὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ Kafuta Njongon
, alow-key placenext totheItal-
4394586; www.lemonfish.gm) Buniadu ia R ia of Mama Folonko. Bambo Reptile FarmReptile Tenda Camp Tumani Berending Sittanunka Lamin
ὅ ὅὅὅ iv
Bulok er Fass Bakalarr Seringe Mass Karang Amdallai Sansankoto Medina Albreda Island Chamen 6miles 10km 0 0 Bessi
Lohen www.lonelyplanet.com (admission D100), S ENGAL Brefet Penku Pakau Jufureh Chapechum Ndemban James Island Basse SantaSu(305km) Lemon Fish Art Lemon Fish Art Ker SambaNjabeh Bafuloto Baduma Riverside Café Riverside Madina Ndungu Sika Kebbe To Soma(93km); , anexcel- ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ ὅὅὅ ὅὅ ὅὅ Somita Maka Bala Sibrik Jakoi which Mana Jurunku Gikis
.darwingambia.gm; admission D31; white-spotted flufftails andwesternwhite-spotted blue- flufftails yellowbill, leaflove, green and violet turaco, include African goshawks, oriolewarblers, the calm waters Stream. of Species Lamin gallery forest, Guineasavanna andalong than 250species have inthe sighted been Bird-watchers willlove thisplace–more amazingly diverse vegetation andwildlife. meals aroundD150) Morgan’s Grocery Morgan’s eco-lodge. when wevisited. Itshouldbynowbeacosy h person D350) Lodge The prettiest is placetostay SLEEPING &EATING www.lonelyplanet.com ture Reserve ture For aparkof only105hectares, the Reserve Abuko Nature in Abéné orKafountine. arrangements toget yourpassportstamped tomake soyouneed border postinSenegal, gotiate apirogue(aroundD10).There’s no town, thenheadtowardstheriver andne- atthepolicepost justsouthofstamped decide ontheadventure, get yourpassport side. Ifyoudo transport ontheSenegalese prepare fora10kmhike asthere’s nopublic totake apirogue acrosstheriver,need then ing. Youcancrosstheborderhere, butyou butthat’sdeceiv- launch padintoSenegal, On themap,Kartong lookslike agreat THERE&AWAYGETTING D600) camping perpersonD150,tree houseD250,dinclbreakfast and espresso. south of town) hasexcellentpizza,pasta .stala-adventures.com) good optionis lit sky(mosquito-netsprovided). Another with shared underastar- toiletsorsleep from thebeach. inbungalows Youcanstay locals, whilethe midnight) dishesD60-150; 00221 6164382inSenegal; and beer. Intown, formation andbirdtours aswellfood birding camp ontheriver, Right thefishingand pital. that donates itsprofits tothelocalhos- A 300m sand trackwestofA 300msand Kartong, lunch &dinner) , which sitsamidpalmtrees 10steps
near the Fishing Centre (3km neartheFishingCentre ( % , abasic,butvery friendlyplace
7776736; www.gambia-adventure.com; ( % isagreat placeforlocalin- Stiching Stala
Tamba Kuruba isagoodplacetomeet 7782633; [email protected]; www (snacks andmealsfromD50toD200; Italian Restaurant wasgetting ready toopen UmpacolaBar
h
( % ( % 8am-7pm)
9915604; www Boboi Beach
9851857; rper ( ( % % Abuko Na- h 4419111; 9957694, 11am- has
WESTERN GAMBIA••SouthCoast&Inland next to the reserve. next tothereserve. can provide themwithaccommodation projects. Theyalsotake onvolunteers and wildlife guidesandrunsvarious education that studiesGambia’sbiodiversity, trains to visit. morning, before isthebesttime theheat, mid- from6.30am,otherwise the reserve Station and faunaare atthe forsale andGambianflora lications onthereserve attheticket pub- bought office,andseveral www.darwingambia.gm) Lamin Lodge The village of isunremarkable, but Lamin Lamin colobus monkeys, monkeys. andpatas monkeys, endangeredor vervet western red bushbabies andthree monkey types:green including bushbucks, duikers, porcupines, photo hidesalsoreveal mammalvarieties, ing extension isparticularlygood.Several anywhere, thetrailof though thebird- pretty much bills. Birdscanbeobserved being released intothewild. age, where animalsare looked after before crocodiles, andhasasmallanimalorphan- the tion workinTheGambia,largely thanksto the right (west)ofthe right themainroad. entranceison Brikama (D10).Thereserve take towards aminibusfromSerekunda two hours of waitingtime. Alternatively, coast resorts costsaboutD400,including Gambia River Experience River Gambia lodge’s eccentric ownerisalsoheadof the and,bestofthe viewsfantastic, all,the a great dayout.Thefoodhere isgood, overlooking amangrove creek, makes for a rugged, handmadelogcabinonstilts, biariver.com) pancakes, binoculars clenched. birders breakfast trip– thinkoysters and (D1500). Best-loved of allis theirfamous toDenton Bridgeoffs (D1600) andBanjul for daytrips (D10,000),and arrange drop- small motorboats bythehour(D700),or At thelodge, you canhire piroguesand aginative boat tripsontheGambiaRiver. If you’re abird-watcher, youcanenter A thin book about the reserve canbe A thinbookaboutthereserve The reserve isalsofamousforitsNile The reserve Abuko hubof isanimportant preserva- A privatetoAbuko taxi fromtheAtlantic Makasutu WildlifeTrust Makasutu
( h , which organises plenty of im- 8am-4pm)
( % 4497603; www.gambiariver.com) , abusyresearch centre .
( %
([email protected]; 4494360; www.gam Darwin Field 315
, THE GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA about 3kmtothelodge. andthenfollowthedirtroadfor in Lamin can take aminibustoBrikama(D10),get off you orSerekunda (D300). Or,fromBanjul Lodge withtimeatAbukocombine Lamin tour. Byroadit’sbesttohire (D150),or ataxi you shouldn’twhollyrely onit. cards,though totake Visa that’s supposed branchGamtel office), andaTrustBank (the bestonesare Bojank KNetandthe Union Branch, acoupleof Internet cafés iers andhordesof eager salesmen. souvenir -style sculptures, improvised atel- tic cornerof covered crammedwith stalls orSerekunda. It’sahec- in fromBanjul the edge of asyoucome town ontheright Market)known astheWoodcarvers’ at andthefamous itself few here.though tostay choose thisdustyupcountryplace, pass through in andoutupdownthecountry noisy andbusy.People andgoodsmoving ment, isatypicaljunctiontown;extensive, Brikama, TheGambia’sthird-largest settle- Brikama 316 Most peopleget here byanorganised boat There’s Western postoffice, ahospital, apartfromthebustle There’s littletosee, contacting themisbyphoning ( contacting pound (whichispossible). The bestwayof and whetheryoustay andeatattheircom- tirely negotiable,and dependonduration tothegriot’smétier.duction Pricesare en- watch thembeing made, andgetanintro- show youtheway totheir home. intownto them onthe phone,askany kid Ifyoucan’t get www.kairakundaarts.org). one ofthemostrenowned familiesof the itinerary.The dustytownishometo shouldbeanobligatorystopon Brikama For anybody interested inAfrican music, KORA COURSES such as best placestolearn traditionalinstruments, courses’ atthecoast–thisisoneofGambia’s ForgetJobarteh. about‘instantdrumming andhissons PaJobarteh andTata Dindin Konte,Konte, andMalamini hissonBakari suchmightytalentsas Dembo brought forth reaches backseveral generations andhas players inthecountry,agriotclan that WESTERNGAMBIA••SouthCoast&Inland kora , djembe , bolon crafts market crafts , balafon % 7710015; or sabar, kora (also
D15-45) the forest, tucked away inthe mangroves, is food out of theprogramme. Next tothe day visit, take thepriceand D200off ing anda visittoacraftscentre. For ahalf- demonstrations oftapped, traditionaldanc- est where youcanwatch palm winebeing range of including a palmfor- habitats, a tour bypirogue, guidedwalksthrough boundaries. perfect than theonebeyondforest lush andsmilingGambia,justa bit more land that’sdedicated todisplayapretty, hectares of land along Mandina Bolong, mission adult/childD700/400) Restaurant Culture Forest Culture guage of touristenterprise. The dinka, or‘culturalthemepark’in thelan- Makasutu means ‘sacred forest’ inMan- Makasutu to Ziguinchor isCFA2200. Séléti costsD40(CFA800), andthenSéléti borderin totheSenegalese A bush taxi to reach region inSenegal. theCasamance port toKartong. Gunjur (D10),where youchange fortrans- tions. There are alsofrequent to bushtaxis change foranyotherupcountry destina- quent transporttoSoma(D80),where you minutes duringtheday. 10 aboutonceevery kama fromSerekunda, Many Bri- (D10)passthrough minibuses THERE&AWAYGETTING D15) Place the namelessplaceknowntolocalsat here.ment tostay Thebestof theworst is Brikama’s hotels are noentice- certainly SLEEPING &EATING and the chips are pricier(D40). slightly fish. More exoticthingslike chicken and greasy localeateries. The bungalows. maintained compound doorthathidesacluster of well- Bojang’s andyou’llbeledtoaniron house behind themayor’shome. Ask forchief A dayintheforest includes amangrove Brikama isthebestjunctionfrom which If you’re headedeastwards,there isfre- Food optionsare mainlylimited to serves enormousbowlsof riceand tasty serves Mandina River Lodge River Mandina
( % is afairlydecentoption,the Gilanka Restaurant Gilanka 9845959; off Basse Highway; rD200) 9845959; offBasseHighway;
(meals D15-45)
( % 4483335; www.makasutu.com; ad- 4483335; www.makasutu.com; occupiesabout1000 has apretty garden, www.lonelyplanet.com
( % Lucky Palace
( % /fax 4484100; www 9851857; meals Makasutu Makasutu Kambeng Kambeng , right , right
Chief’s (meals from thecoastona tourism venture situated aboutanhour The Tenda Tumani rperpersonwithhalfboardD5440) .makasutu.com; www.lonelyplanet.com land) makes for excellent bird-watching. mangrove swamps, lagoons and wood- marshes, (beach, mudflats,salt dunes, tats (also spelled Jinak),where therange of habi- including thelongnarrow islandof Ginak across asmallcorner of northwest Gambia, Park National Niumi Ginak Island(Niumi NationalPark) look at with aninterest inhistoryshouldhave a Those River totheborderwithSenegal. atthemouthoffrom Barra theGambia Gambia’s northcoaststretches allof 10km BANK &NORTH COAST NORTH control slave shipping. built bytheBritish inthe1820stohelp (D12) andwalkthelast3km. todropyouatTutiFallsask abushtaxi Rd hire (D300).Alternatively, ataxi youcan you’re makingyourownway,it’sbestto oneofthrough thegroundoperators. If allowednearthesite.even visitorssutu website, aren’t andsurprise ortheMaka- GambiaExperience through powered luxurylodges. Bookingsare made ning architecture, includingfloating,solar- and respect fornature, andfor its stun- for itssuccessfulmarriage of lavishness exclusive eco-retreat that’sworld-famous [email protected]; perpersonD200) a 2.5kmwalk. Taibatu (lookforthesign). Fromhere it’s to attheturn-off and asktobedroppedoff brown-necked parrots. ture here to trytheirluckspottingtherare Bird-watcherstion it’shardtobeat. ven- but forataste of village life inagreat loca- Other mealsare D30.Thisisbasicliving, withratesyou canstay, includingbreakfast. by adifferent familyfromthevillage, where five traditional-stylehuts,each maintained nity projects withinthevillage. There are theprofitsvillage, whouse tofundcommu- the residents of theneighbouring Taibatu Gambia River. It’sownedandoperated by Most peoplecomeonatourarranged Take fromBrikama(D10) abushtaxi Tumani Tenda Camp Fort Bullen Fort
Mp p1 spreads p314) (Map (admission D25; bolong
( (creek) nearthe % is anothereco- 9903662; tumani h 9am-5pm) , an WESTERN GAMBIA •• North Coast & North Bank Coast&North WESTERN GAMBIA••North , front door(CFA1500 oneway). arrival, youcanorganise pick-upfromyour (meals D150).Ifyouphonethelodge before excellent breezy bar-restaurant serving food andsharedlighting toilets.There’s alsoa modation insimplehuts,withkerosene -lamp andhasaccom- spot onthewestern seafront Madiyana Lodge andfullboard. they includetransport,accommodation at get consistently goodreviews. ForD3000, the smalloperatorHiddenGambia( p327 ) is joininganorganised tour. Thetripsby west acrosstheislandtoreach thelodge. across theriver (D5),anda20-minute walk D400. Fromthere, youtake adug-outcanoe the mainlandopposite Ginakcostsaround America asaslave some200 years ago. ancestor, wascaptured here andtaken to Alex Haley Kinte, his describeshowKunta Roots following thepublicationof thebook Jufureh becameworldfamousinthe1970s &Albreda Jufureh ( them ratherslim. hunted down,makingchances of spotting key species,butmanyanimalshave been bushbucks andduikers, plusvariousmon- small populationsof manatees, crocodiles, the shore. Intheory,theparkprotects Dolphins are occasionallyspotted from guest appearance athercompound. sister of Binde Kinte, makes the deceased a one of Haley’s descendants, the supposed produced tobe admired andfilmed, pound milletatstrategic points,babiesare arrive.soon asthetourist boats Women overblown village actionthatensuesas there’s exceptthe actuallyvery littletosee into apopulartourist destination,though cal forest togrowhere. thatused aren’t quite asfascinatingthelushtropi- replaced bylarge marijuanafields,which Niumi NationalPark erodedand hasbeen thelastyears,exaggerated. theheartof Over made byvarioustouroperators are atouch claimstocelestialbeautymeans, though breda is a littlemore Themain peaceful. % Another goodoptionof getting here Otherwise, a private taxi from Barra to aprivatefromBarra taxi Otherwise, His storyhasturned thetinycommunity Ginak isapretty stretch of land,byall Five hundred metres fromJufureh, Al- The modestandcharming 4494088, 9920201;rperpersonD600) , inwhich African-American writer Madiyana Lodge Madiyana sitsinapretty 317
THE GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA there’s spaceintheshabbybungalows. accommodate independenttravellers if mainly workswithFrench groups,butcan lethargicis aslightly drumming campthat rper person inclbreakfast D300) [email protected]; D500/1000) 5pm Mon-Sat) GETTING THERE&AWAYGETTING the French traders inthelate 17thcentury,and (fortified slaving originallybuiltby station) here istheruined ‘factory’thing tosee 318 consider staying overnight;consider staying both Jufureh and tocome allthis way,you should the effort first ferry But,ifyouare fromBanjul. making to dothe tripinaday,you’ll have tocatch the a couple of hours waiting time).Ifyouwant D50) orhire (aroundD700including ataxi then findashared toJufureh taxi (around catalogue. eral hotels have the ‘RootsTour’intheir erators alongthe AtlanticCoastandsev- is byorganised river tour. Allthe tourop- The usualwaytovisitJufureh andAlbreda lent meals.The before arriving,theycanalsoorganise excel- ourfully decorated bungalows.Ifyouphone hotel withspotlessaccommodationin col- the GambiaRiver. exhibition tracingthehistoryof slavery on Roots Camp Alternatively, take theferry across toBarra, The best place to stay isthe The bestplacetostay 19th centuries. itself, wasfundamentaltotheeconomicdevelopment ofEurope andtheUSAin18th to plantationsintheAmericas. Manyhistoriansalsoholdthattheirlabour,andtheslave trade women were captured byEuropean traders,orbyotherAfricans paidbyEuropeans, andtaken trade wasimmoralandinhuman,hadadevastatingeffect onAfrica. ofmenand Millions accuracy ofHaley’sstorymayobscure amuchmore theslave serious,andundeniable,fact: believe hewasdescendedfromtheKintes ofJufureh, andthemythremains largely intact. camefromJufureh. thatheactually unlikely Despite theinconsistencies, Haleyseemedhappyto true,it’sexceedingly surprise inthisway.WhilethestoryofAlexHaley’sancestorisalmostcertainly some decades,very closetoJufureh, thatavillagerfromhere it’sunlikely wouldhave by beentaken hardly have beenunique. Also,astheslave stationsofAlbreda andJamesIslandhadbeenthere for common clannamethroughoutWestAfrica, andthegriot’sstoryofKuntaKinte’s capture would for adrumoutsidehisvillage. This later tiedinwithastoryHaleywastoldbygriotatJufureh. African forebearer’s namewasKinte andthathe’dbeencaptured byslavers whilechoppingwood Alex Haleybasedhisresearch forhisnovel THE ROOTS DEBATE CENTRAL & EASTERN GAMBIA CENTRAL&EASTERN museum Detractors maydelightinexposingfabrication,butthereDetractors isadangerthatthedebate onthe Critics have pointed out(quite reasonably) thatthestoryisflawedinmanyareas. Kinte isa inAlbreda –anambitiouslysized
, which hasasimplebutstriking ( %
( % 9905322; [email protected];s/d Jufureh Resthouse Jufureh 710276; admissionD100;
Kunta Kinte Kunta Kinte ( % h 5710276; 10am- Roots
onrecollections ofelderrelatives whoknewtheir though you’ve the continent. The though crossed upcountry, you’ll probably feel as that leads spent 12 hours onthe tyre-busting road nothing is really remote – yet onceyou’ve Gambia being such atinysliver of land, GAMBIA CENTRAL & EASTERN of Jufureh costsD100. the islandincludingavisitto museum take youover fromAlbreda. Admissionto beabletoarrangeyou might apirogueto of toJufureh, aboattripfromBanjul but to beholdingtheislandtogether. the battlements.Onlybaobabtrees seem ing, andatsomepointsthewater islapping more interesting. Theislandisrapidlyerod- called theslave dungeon itsounds because roombeingafoodstore,intact which isoften centuries. of numerousskirmishesinthefollowing Fort James, builtinthe1650sand thesite Albreda. On theislandare theremains of bia River, about2kmsouthof Jufureh and James Islandisinthemiddleof theGam- Island James the touristgroupshave left. Albreda are when attheirbestintheevening, Most peopletake in James Islandaspart Today, thefortislargely inruins,theonly www.lonelyplanet.com walking inthis area. vehicle trip, there are lots of options for If youdon’twant totake a land Reserve. around the creeks of Wet- the Baobolong excursions rides toKiangWest andboat gets consistently good reviews, too. river-edge veranda andTV. Therestaurant lows toVIProoms, fullyequippedwitha watcher’s dream destination. West NationalPark –inshort,it’sabird- proximityWetlands andinclose toKiang in itsposition–opposite theBaobolong travellers’ scene. Tendaba’s attractionlies spectacular spectacular ing theshores of River theBintang isthe Tucked awayamongthemazeof shrubslin- BINTANG BOLONG enjoyable wayof travelling. byfarthemost the wholejourneybyboat, camps sprinkledalongtheriverside –ordo overnight stopsat thefew brilliantlylocated andmakejust hopoffthetaxi acoupleof thewaterway, orgoonapiroguetrip, to see always frustratinglyoutof view.Ifyouwant Gambia River, which faraway,but isnever where adirttrackleadsnorthtowards the forest. Every 10kmorsothere’s ajunction dies, palmgroves andpatches of natural route cropfields,ricepad- windsthrough www.lonelyplanet.com for theenduring upstream It’smainlyfamous fromBanjul. ern bankof theGambiaRiver, 165km Tendaba isasmallvillage onthesouth- TENDABA place andarrange tobepicked up(D750). village andthelodge. Or,justphonethe at Killyalongthedirtroadtoreach Bintang the village of andturnleft(north) Somita, through tofollowthemainroad east needs (aroundD1700toD2000). Thedrivera taxi the waitforbustofill-up,youcanhire (onehour,D25).Ifyoucan’tface to Bintang pirogue foraboattour(perhourD800). river –youcanleapfromyourbalconyintoa onthe bricks. Stunninghutssitonstiltsright entirely fromlocalmangrove woodsandclay an intimate, eco-friendly campmadealmost 9867615; www.bintang-bolong.com; rperpersonD400; bathroom D225/245,luxuryrD270) 4465288; [email protected];bungalowswithout/with From Tendaba, youcanarrange 4WD Accommodation ranges fromsmallbunga- Twice aday,there’s abusfromBrikama Bintang Tendaba Camp
Bolong Lodge , aclassiconthe
( ( % % 4541024, 4488035, s CENTRAL & EASTERN GAMBIA••BintangBolong CENTRAL &EASTERN ) , along thedirtroad. village of Kwinella–thecampis5kmnorth off atthe the mainroadtowardsSoma. Get along orSerekunda fromBanjul bush taxi takeit’s besttohire a Otherwise, ataxi. (see p327 ). Ifyouprefer tocomebyroad, ence bothincludeTendaba intheirtours den GambiaandtheRiver Experi- widely, sodosomeshopping around.Hid- resorts arrange tours here –pricesdiffer continue toFarafenni. the GambiaRiver andthen toBambatenda, Yelitenda, where youcatch theferry across Gambia Hwy.About 10kmnorthof Somais bia’s southbank theTrans- artery crosses Soma isadustyjunction townwhere Gam- KONKO &MANSA SOMA pecially inthedryseason. which attractsagoodrange of animals,es- a viewinghideoverlooking awater hole totheriverbank.close About 2kmwestis thepoint,escarpment runs Behind promontory tothenortheastof thepark. viewing site isToubabKollonPoint,ariver the beastsare proving tooshy.A popular animals –orforenjoyingthescenery,if the riverbank isagoodplaceforspotting escarpmentthatrunsparallelto 20m-deep and therare brown-necked parrot.The hornbill, osprey, fisheagle,martialeagle recorded, includingAbyssinian ground also plentiful,withmore than300species hyenas, dolphinsandcrocodiles.Birdsare bushbucks. speciesinclude sighted Rarely monkeys, warthogs,marsh and mongooses including bushbabies, baboons,colobus home toanextraordinaryvarietyof species, The Gambia’slargest national park,are woodland andgrasslandof KiangWest, The mangrove creeks andmudflats, dry KIANG WESTNATIONAL PARK colonial villa. missioner’s residence and hiscrumbling of the glory days,such asthe districtcom- townwithafew ghost remindersa sleepy centre during thecolonialera. Today it’s means ‘king’shill’), andanadministrative local chief’s(thename important capital cluded inthepriceof tours fromTendaba. quarters thisisin- inDumbuntu,although Most hotels aroundtheAtlanticcoast Nearby is Mansa Konko, originallyan Entry isD31.50,payableatthepark head-
319 THE GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA hour electricity. noisy, andholdslittleappealbeyond24- ing ifyouget stuck–it’spopular,hence Senegal sideof theborder.Senegal from Farafenni butmostgofromthe itself, there are for CFA4000; bushtaxis somego and change. If you’re headingforDakar most otherplaces, youhave togoSoma most morningsforD90.ForSerekunda Direct fromFarafenni minibuses go to &Away There Getting main fenni ismuch more than Soma. The pleasant On thenorthbank,market town Fara- FARAFENNI lack orDakar. (D6), where youcanfindtransporttoKao- toFarafenninorthern bankatBambatenda and take oneof thevehicles waitingonthe (D5), (D6), goacrossasafootpassenger totheGambiaRivertaxi ferry atYelitenda If you’re headingnorth,take alocalbush Su. Santa toGeorgetownfor ataxi orBasse in thetowncentre, where youcanchange fromthecoaststopatgarageBush taxis &Away There Getting person D125) 320 name, ahost of crumbling monuments to Today it’sgot anew(or should thatbe old?) tre andtrading hubfullof grand buildings. Georgetown wasabusy administrative cen- Under the British,the island settlement (JANGJANG-BUREH) GEORGETOWN place toeatintown. joys enduringpopularity.It’salso thebest quirky placewithaleafycourtyard thaten- forgotten storyof oldAfricankingdoms. this 1841Wolof constructiontells ahalf- reducedThough toitsdustyfoundations, the 10kmdirtroadtrailtowards from 7amtomidnight. isonly2kmtothenorthandopen Senegal only bankformanymiles.Theborderwith it’s the low oncashvisittheTrustBank; theirwares. andGuineatosell tania Ifyou’re lages andmerchants fromasfarMauri- when peoplecomefromsurroundingvil- Bar The lively To spend the night, headfor To spendthenight, If youdoget stuckhere, it’sworthtaking
( CENTRAL & EASTERN GAMBIA••Farafenni CENTRAL&EASTERN % lumo 7735225; s/dwithbathroomD200/250; istheonlyplaceworthconsider- (weekly market) (weekly isonSunday, Moses Guesthouse
( % Eddy’s Hotel & Eddy’s Hotel Kataba Fort Kataba 4531462; rper a ) , a . trails of variousforest parks. to visit,mainlyfor theirtours alongtheeco- battles againstdeforestation, isagreat place half-board perperson D1000; bird-watching excursions onoffer. Wassu, Gambia River National Park and Most of thecampsbelow have tours to Sleeping and a ters later. Nearbyistheold buildingswerethese constructed much were transported Georgetown, through slaves history–though This isfictionalised up a‘Freedom Tree’ and‘Slave Market’. youas‘Slaveto ‘sell’ Prison’,alsotalking nial warehouses, which localyouthwilltry ern ferry landing,are twocrumblingcolo- On thewaterfront, eithersideof thenorth- Sights a weakspotforbirdsandhistory. with those There plentytoplease isthough infrastructure –nobanksandhospital. riverbanks, butthere islittleinterms of and groundnuts.Ithasferry linkstoboth and 2.5kmwide,covered withfieldsof rice it Georgetown. Theislandis 10kmlong is Jangjang-bureh, butmostpeoplestillcall introduced, nameforthetownandisland of days. work –theperfect placetorelax foracouple that discourages allbutthemostnecessary history andthesortof atmosphere sluggish Project trace thecourseof theNiger River. plorer MungoPark startedhisjourneyto obelisk marksthespotwhere Scottishex- Tenda with ahistoricalbentshouldvisit reached bytours fromGeorgetown. Those School West of townisthecolonial for protection againstaneighbouring tribe. 1823 bytheBritishafter thelocalkingasked that recalls thebuildingof FortGeorge in stone circlesat cessible thanthelarger, andmore famous, north bankferry ramp,itis farmore ac- Stone Circle Bird Safari Camp Bird Safari re-The traditional,andnowofficially In town,the Another placetovisitisthe nowinhabited bythedistrictgovernor, village, 20kmfromtown,where an .
monument (CRDFP; . Atonly1.5kmawayfromthe % Central River Division Forestry DivisionForestry River Central outside the police station outsidethepolicestation 5676198; www.crdfp.org)
Wassu ( % 5676108; www.bsc.gm; rwith s ,
www.lonelyplanet.com which canalsobe Commissioner’s Quar- ) In a secluded lo- Ina secluded Armitage High Armitage High Lamin Koto Karantaba Karantaba , which .gm; OwensSt;rperpersonD100) www.gambiariver.com; rperpersonD200) Talamanca Restaurant is agoodplacefordrinksandsnacks and St; s/dD300/400) from D50; Camp You reach theplacebyboatfrom the river isafinewaytospendtheevening. lamps, andadrinkatthebaroverlooking in amaze-like isbyoil garden.Lighting eclectic collectionof rusticbungalowsset place onthenorthbankconsistsof an by aresident ornithologist. lent bird-watching excursions accompanied bungalows orluxurytents andrunsexcel- cation, thisplacehasaccommodationin www.lonelyplanet.com again. Boattrips are available inthe area, captured chimpanzees tolive in thewild now government owned)thathelps once- the site of aproject (privately initiated but refer totheentire Island is park. Baboon to name issometimesused Island, whose heart of theparkisso-called Baboon River are protected asanational park.The South of five Kuntaur, islands intheGambia RIVERNATIONALGAMBIA PARK costs D5forpassengers andD50forcars. request Theferry thiswhenentering thetaxi. gers atthesouthernferry ramp–youshould passen- Suto dropoff Santa Soma andBasse turnoffthemainroadbetween bush taxis Georgetown isonlyreached byferry. Most &Away There Getting it’s downtotheeateries nearthemarket. intoahumble‘hotel’.taurant Otherwise, that’s graduallygrowingfromadecent res- h RoadsidePub Maradona lodges, especiallyafter dark.Thepopular Few optionsexistoutsidethecampsand Drinking & Eating luxury of agenerator. andthe rooms,friendlystaff maintained eastern endof town,thiscamphaswell- generator power). notalwaysreliablehas emailaccess(though tion. Itmainlyattractsalocalclientele, and tel is Georgetown’s cheap andcheerful op- Baobolong Camp Alaka-bung Lodge Alaka-bung Jangjang-bureh Camp Jangjang-bureh lunch &dinner)
( % h /fax 5676182;rperpersonD200) 11am-8pm) Set inlushgardensatthe Set opposite Alaka-bung Lodge,
(
% (
% ( isarelaxed address % 5676133; fax5676120;Owens
( (Findlay St; mealsD50-100; 5676123; alakabung@qanet % 9921100; Findlay St;meals This low-key hos- /fax 5676182,9920618; CENTRAL & EASTERN GAMBIA •• Gambia River NationalPark River GAMBIA••Gambia CENTRAL &EASTERN Thisrootsy . Dreambird Dreambird centre andcafé converted hasbeen house intothecultural [email protected]; [email protected]; is infullswing. if youcomeonaThursday whenthe market any WestAfricanjunctiontown,especially busy, run-downandforever deal-makingas tional tradingcentre, andascrammed hub forthesurroundingarea. It’satradi- point ontheGambiaRiver andatransport most townisthelastmajor ferry-crossing onabeautifulwaterfront, thiseastern- Set BASSE SANTA SU trip, after somebargaining. rate isaboutD250forathree orfour-hour the going eral peopleprovide theservice; byroadandhireKuntaur aboatthere. Sev- Georgetown. Alternatively, youcangoto The easiestoptionisbyboattourfrom &Away There Getting get tooclose. whenhumans more than60)are nervous thechimps (therebut mainlybecause are it interferes withtherehabilitation process, totheislands.Thisispartly because close but visitors are notallowedtolandorget calls attheGamtel office and there’s anInternet café.Youcanmake cardholders,can advancemoneytoVisa Su that have Santa Bank branches inBasse proach theislandsnearer thanmidstream. the mainland,andare notallowedtoap- theislandsandeastbankofnel between –itwillbeabonus. sible distance anychimps –whilekeeping arespon-see lection of birds. Andifyoudohappento crocs andhippostoo,plusanexcellentse- baboonsandmonkeys, andpossiblysee stretchbeautiful of river. You’llquite likely the aimof having agooddayoutonthis chimpanzees, soit’sbest togowith to see est onthebanksof theisland,itisunusual ing staff are enthusiastic, and immensely ing staff by neglect when wevisited. Butthe remain- as thedisplay spaceswere haunted slightly gathering dust,and thecaféaswell started Since the place’sfounders have left,ithas handmade clothes, matsandwallhangings. locally madecrafts,includingand sells By thewaterfront, an oldcolonialware- Both Trust Bank and Standard Chartered andStandard Both TrustBank Boats are onlypermitted onthemainchan- of cloakof thedense galleryfor-Because Traditions h 9am-6pm)
( . % 5668533; sulaymanj . Itex hibits
321 THE GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA yahoo.com; aptD250) yahoo.com; the signwasalittle old.The don sounds’,but the manager admitted that pirogue trips. bungalowsandthey can organise fortable the northbank.Accommodationis incom- on is undoubtedly thebestplacetostay D300/600) teenage adrenalin aloneistough. this hotel-restaurant-nightclub machine on doing apretty running goodjob,though this large placefromdrowning indust.He’s by amere boytryinghisbesttoprevent but stillgoodfor beers. club of the the of near themarket. meat stalls The nightclub gargottes larly good–thecaféof Traditionsandthe and JemFulladu Camp Hotel are particu- Food ispretty much limited tohotels – Drinking & Eating floor balconyabove shop. atailor ing hours people-watching fromthefirst- but atleastyoucanspendsomeentertain- place hasdingyroomswithshared toilets, itabit. roughing feel like apunishmentifyou’re to notused Sucan Santa inBasse thenight Staying Sleeping the waterfront. other birdscanbearranged withlocalson Egyptian plover. thisand Boatridestosee therareary, it’salsoagoodplacetosee ferry JuneandFebru- point,andbetween cony gives agreat viewacrosstheriver and activity, atriphere isrewarding. Thebal- once again. Suwillshine Santa of anytourtoBasse optimistic thatthismajor stoppingpoint 322 the ferry rampfor Georgetown (D75, one ern outpost of Fatoto (D20, 40 minutes); gototheeast- andminibuses Bush taxis &Away There Getting (opposite themarket; pected visitors. the formermanager’s apartmentfor unex- Traditions Jem Hotel Jem Basse Guesthouse Even of ifyoufindTraditionsdevoid Fulladu Camp
GAMBIA DIRECTORY ••Accommodation GAMBIADIRECTORY ( h Jem Hotel Jem Whenwevisited, itwasmanaged 8pm-3am) (simple eating house) androast- (simpleeatinghouse)
( ( % %
(
% 5668356; offtheroadtoVélingara;s/d (meals D50-150) are bothalittlerundown, 5668533; sulaymanjallowtraditions@ h The staff here candustoff The staff 5668743; rperpersonD300)
7pm-2am) ( % 5668283; rD150) and promises ‘Lon- promises Kassoumai Bar Kassoumai Plaza Night- This This search for hisAfrican origins. search describes the African-American author’s tive fiction,thehugely influentialbook Haley. Amix of historical factandimagina- Gambia is probably The most famousworkrelating toThe BOOKS equipment canbe hired (see p307 ). jul ( p307 ) andat thecoast,andwatersports can bearranged at DentonBridge nearBan- favourite pursuits. Pirogue andfishingtrips around thenationalparksandhiking among and wildlife, withbird-watching, tours tows. Upcountry,it’sallaboutthe scenery dueto strongunder-for swimmingthough, holiday industry.Somebeaches aren’t safe sliceofism beingthemostimportant the bia tend toberelated beach tour- tothesea, andGam- Most touristactivitiesinSenegal ACTIVITIES thetwo.between over US$75andmidrange issomewhere accommodation isunderUS$30,top endis friendliness carefully. Inthischapter budget responsibly, check theirclaimstoeco- tice totheirname. Ifyouwanttotravel ‘eco-lodges’, onlyvery few actuallydojus- ofhuts. Beware therapidlyproliferating accommodation inbungalowsandround are severely limited, mainlytocampswith to palatialhotels. Upcountry,youroptions apartments andself-catering guesthouses of frombasic choice inplacestostay, In the Atlanticcoastresorts, there’s plenty ACCOMMODATION DIRECTORY GAMBIA delays atroadblocks). takes atleast24hours (orlonger ifthere are The fare isCFA30,000 (D1500)and thetrip innorthernGuinea.depending) toLabé more goes or less daily(passengerstaxi (see p326 ). Even further afield,aPeugeot toTambacoundaby bushtaxi viaVélingara D50, andforpassengers, D5. ney isfairlyquick.Thecharge foracaris bank takes onecaratatime,andthejour- hours). (D300,eight Serekunda hour); Soma(D150,fourhours); and If you’re heading for Senegal, youcango If you’re headingforSenegal, The ferry totheGambiaRiver’s northern Roots www.lonelyplanet.com (1976) by Alex into Gambia’smusicscene. an entertaining fictionwithmoving insights Mark Hudson’s into thehistoryof theMandinka inGambia. of excellentinsights Gambia’sgriots,affords of theKelefa Saaneepic,afamousrecitation in the of Interior Africa Mungo Park’s 19th-century classic www.lonelyplanet.com stay freestay of charge. under 12usually get a 50%discount or even adding an extrabedtoa room.Children activities. Mosthotels offer thefacilityof there’s little in thewayof child-centred Children are generally welcome,though CHILDREN around 3amor4am. to get goingfrom 11pmonwards,andclose out. Barsusually openaround8pm,tend thefoodruns around 10pmor whenever in smallertownsandvillages manyclose openuntilthelastguest leaves,stay though 6pm onwards.Mostrestaurants inthecities around 11amto2.30pmanddinner from lunch from tendday. Restaurants toserve day and8amtonoonFriday Satur- and 2.30pmto5.30pmMonday Thurs- usuallyopen8.30amtonoon businesses shopsand 8am to12.30pmFriday.Banks, to 3pmor4pmMondayThursday, and Government are offices openfrom8am HOURS BUSINESS For historical insights intotheregion,For historicalinsights try PRACTICALITIES The Gambiauses themetricsystem. square pins,asusedinBritain. as thoseincontinentalEurope, orthree 220V. Plugseither have tworoundpins, The supplyinThe electricity Gambiais news. with afocusonpoliticalandeconomic a long-standingandrespected weekly West Africa events. con cise run downofrecent political anda news stories,accessiblereports Focus onAfrica andtourism. ness, sport political andeconomicnews,plusbusi- Africa Today (WestAfrica Publishing) is (Afro Media)hasgood Our Grandmother’s Drum (BBC) hasexcellent (BBC) . Thewritten version Travels is sau) Located 1km northwest of Mercado deBandim. ofMercado sau) Located1kmnorthwest Bakau; Bakau; Kurfurstendamm 103,Berlin) Kurfurstendamm W8 5DH) 1000, 115515thStNW,Washington,DC20005) country you might encounter problems. country youmight are foundinthebigsupermarkets, butup- sitting agencies. Nappiesandbabyfood there’s littleinthewayof professional baby- upper midrange ortop-endbracket, and able inafew hotels, mostof theminthe Brussels 1050) Adama Bah St,Banjul) Adama Bah Guinea Gamtel have offices one). listed here, check inthephonebook(most ofFor details embassiesinGambia not inGambia Embassies &Consulates USA UK Sierra Leone Senegal Nigeria Guinea-Bissau Germany France Belgium Embassies&Consulates Gambian EMBASSIES &CONSULATES hassle. readers have reported mildtovery serious beaches andontheroadafter dark–some in red Womenshouldbecareful tape. at behaviour –anger willonlyget youtiedup polite andfriendlywhenfacedwithsuch keenofficials to extract somedalasi.Stay with beingstaffed notoriously irritating, away. Gambia’spolicecheckpoints are shouldkeep them their offers of services ling tourists.Firmbutpolite refusals to coast, whotrytomake alivingfromhust- most annoyingare the‘bumsters’ the near and there are Perhaps occasionalmuggings. place tovisit.Pickpocketing isrife though, On a worldscale,Gambiaisafairlysafe DANGERS &ANNOYANCES Mali Guinea-Bissau 1.30pm &2.30-4pm Fri) Daniel GoddardSt,Banjul; Paris) GAMBIA DIRECTORY ••BusinessHours GAMBIA DIRECTORY ( Child-minding facilitiesare onlyavail- ( % (Map (Map p299 ; % h ( Mp p299 ; (Map ( 020 7937 6316; 57 Kensington Court, London Court, 020 79376316;57Kensington % ( ( % 0202-785 1399;[email protected]; Suite ( % % 9am-2pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) 9am-2pm Mon-Fri, % 01 42940930;117RueSaint-Lazare, 75008 0682 192;162AwolowoRd,Ikoyi,Lagos) ( 821 44 76; 11 Rue de Thiong, Dakar) 821 4476;11RuedeThiong,Dakar) 02 6401049;126Ave Franklin-Roosevelt, % 030 8923121;fax8911401; ( Mp pp304-5; (Map % % 225191; 6 Wilberforce St,Freetown) 225191; 6Wilberforce % 4226942; VMCompany Ltd,Cherno 0203928; Av de14Novembro,Bis- 4226862, 909964;topfl, 78A h 9am-4pm Mon-Thu, 9am- % 4494854; Atlantic Rd,
323 THE GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA New Year’s Day p818 formore information. and occurondifferent dates each year. See dates are determined bythelunar calendar, andMoulid arekharit celebrated. Their lim holidays,such asKorité,Tabaski, Tam- Apart fromthestateholidaysbelow,Mus- HOLIDAYS some hostility. quite rare, encounter youmight though couples).Actualaggression is in straight of (which affection are alsofrownedupon is probablybesttoavoid public displays relationshipssexual are aculturaltaboo. It legal inGambia,andformanypeople, gay Strictly speaking, beinggayorlesbianisil- GAY &LESBIANTRAVELLERS largely traditionaldanceandmusicgroups. festival.com) local, featuring Villagefestival inGambia, Festival Kartong RootsFestivalInternational include thefollowing: Two of Gambia’smostinteresting festivals FESTIVALS &EVENTS Grill, SaitmattyRd,Bakau). mark, SwedenandNorway(above Tina’s the Kairaba Den- Hotel, Kololi),Germany, (at consuls inGambia,includingBelgium Europeancountrieshave honorary Several USA UK Sierra Leone Senegal Mauritania 324 Christmas Republic oftheSecond Anniversary Day Workers’ Monday Easter Good Friday Independence Day Kairaba Ave,Kairaba Fajara) Way, Kololi; Kairaba Ave, Kairaba Serekunda; as debates. village, Jufureh. Features mainlytraditionalmusic,aswell inJune,withafocusonthe‘Roots’ all acrossGambia Rd, Fajara; 1.30pm Fri) 1.30pm Fri) dard St,Banjul; Thu, to 4pm Fri) Thu, to4pmFri) (Map (Map pp304-5 ; Holidays include: (Map (Map pp304-5 ; GAMBIA DIRECTORY ••Festivals &Events GAMBIADIRECTORY (Map (Map pp304-5 ; h 25December h (Map (Map pp304-5 ; (Map (Map p299 ; March/April 8am-3pm Mon-Thu, 8am-1pmFri) 1May h 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) March/April March/April 1January % ( 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 8.30am- % % 18February 495133/4; fax496134;48Atlantic h 4392856/8, 391971;fax392475; 8900411, 7730535;www.kartong % % 8am-2pm &2.30-5pmMon- % 4373752; fax373750;off 4228206; 67DanielGod- Biannualfestival held 461086; offBadalaPark 22July .gamtel.gm). ing Banjul or the coastal resorts. or thecoastal ing Banjul can get by without changing before reach- The Gambia alsoaccept CFA, so that you pressured – in manyplaces andmosttaxis as youenter TheGambia.taxi Don’t feel changers willprobably crowdaroundyour travel overland money- fromSenegal, ing youbetter valuethan atabank.Ifyou moneychangers isnow risky,withoutgiv- which meansthatchanging moneywith Gambia’s onceflourishing blackmarket, The government hasclampeddownonThe Black Market allowing withdrawalsof uptoD2000. withsomebanksonly limits canbetight, the onlyreliably accepted card.Withdrawal agreements, butinreality, tends Visa tobe debit cardsfrombankswithreciprocal coast. Intheory,ATMs acceptcredit and andaroundthe Atlantictions inBanjul ard Chartered) andacoupleof petrolsta- ATMs Stand- banks(notably existatseveral ATMs sidering priceslisted inthisbook. value-decreaseand bear inmindwhencon- tocheckneed thesituationwhenyoutravel, whenthisbookwaswritten. You stabilised ally decreased invalueandhadrecently theyears, thedalasihasdrastic- D100. Over circulation are D5,D10,D25,D50 and which isdividedinto100bututs.Notes in The Gambia’sunitof currency isthedalasi, MONEY One Gambia of travelinformation,thoughnotinanygreat detail. website,itcoversthebasics officialtourist .gm) Gambia’s Authority Tourism Gambia businesses. lists plentyofinteresting, one-man inTourism AssociationofSmallScaleEnterprises Gambian ASSET RESOURCES INTERNET Quantumnet gish cybercafé.Thetwomainoperators are upcountry townshave atleastoneslug- and aroundtheAtlanticcoast,most There are plentyof Internet cafésinBanjul ACCESS INTERNET a base rate.a base radio station‘WestCoastRadio’. vibrantreggae scene,completewithitsown Gambia’s (www.asset-gambia.com) Thehomepageofthe (www.asset-gambia.com) All charge aboutD30anhouras (www.onegambia.com) Tells youallabout
(www.qanet.gm) (www.visitthegambia www.lonelyplanet.com and Gamtel
(www might beworthshoppingaround. might but asrates andcommissionscanvary,it rate worse fortravellersa slightly cheques, better rateslightly forcashthanbanks,and the touristzones.Bureaus tend togive a do exchange bureaus, which are foundin All themajor bankschange money,as Moneychangers areVisa themostwidelyaccepted. but there’s areal riskof fraud.Amexand rants, carrental, airtickets andsometours, midrange andtop-endhotels andrestau- ofThe use credit cards ismainlylimited to Cards Credit bedifficult. might and touristareas. Upcountry,changing cities,majorand hotels inthecapital towns British poundscanbechanged inbanks currencies such aseuros,USdollars and andGambia,major interIn Senegal national Cash www.lonelyplanet.com national company Gamtel. one, eitherprivately owned orrun bythe Even thetiniest townstend tohave atleast faxes.and international calls,and send from where you canmake local, national There are plentyof public telephone offices, TELEPHONE &FAX is reportedly inBanjul, office slow. which isavailable in themainpost service, Australasia in15 days.Theposte restante andinNorthAmerica within aweek, Atlantic resorts usuallyarrivinginEurope withletters andthe fromBanjul service, The Gambiahasafairlyreliable postal POST American Express. upcountry anddon’tbringanything but commissions. Forget aboutchanging them atbanks,whicheven invariablycharge high travellersChanging cheques canbetricky, Cheques Travellers drivers.tips taxi many placesincludethisinthebill. Noone you’re expected totiparound10%,though to receive atip.Atthebetter restaurants, places –cheap hostels wouldbesurprised Tipping isusuallyexpected inupmarket Tipping www.gambiatourism.info) OAU Blvd,Banjul; discount applies between 11pmand7am. discount appliesbetween you’ll payaroundD50perminute. A33% National callsare cheap, buttocallabroad, by theunit,andaddupfastonacallabroad. US$45; you’ll need twophotos. US$45; you’llneed are issuedintwoto three daysforabout arevisas normallyvalidforonemonth and one, of needing upto90days.Forthose Ecowas orScandinavian countries forstays Luxembourg,Italy, theNetherlands, Germany, monwealth countries,Belgium, areVisas by nationalsof notneeded Com- VISAS commission. high Office NationalTourist Gambia The Gambiaisrepresented bythe inBritain INFORMATION TOURIST in Paris and10pminSydney. it’s 7aminNewYork,noonLondon,1pm savings. Whenit’s nooninGambia, daylight Gambia isatGMT/UTC. Thecountryhasno TIME asaninternationalthe same call. cheap, whilemobile–landline costsalmost frommobiletoareCalls fairly able inunitsof D50,D100,D150andD300. top upwithprepaid cards,which are avail- A GamcellSIMcardcostsD500.Youcan main operators are GamcellandAfricell. Mobile coverage isgenerally good.The Phones Mobile Enterprises inTourism Enterprises within 24hours. with requestsrelevant embassy. Most deal For onward travel, get fromthe yourvisa forOnwardTravel Visas swiftly atthe extensionsVisa are with usuallydealt Extensions Visa especially forindependenttravellers. % Kartong Association for Responsible Tourism forResponsible Association Kartong InKartong,help smallbusinesses. thelocal is agreat umbrella organisation, tryingto There are noarea are codes.Calls charged For directory dial assistance In TheGambia,the 4495887; www.safarigarden.com) GAMBIA DIRECTORY ••Post GAMBIA DIRECTORY h Immigration Office 8am-4pm)
, based attheGambian , based (ASSET; www.asset-gambia.com) (ASSET; Association ofSmallScale Association . TheycostD250. isagoodsource,
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THE GAMBIA THE THE GAMBIA Hub Conakry. .com/airguinee; OAU BlvdcnrDavidson CarrolSt,Banjul) Air Guinée Regular airlinesincludethefollowing: flight. centre. national Airport The Gambia’smainairportis Air and your vaccination certificate. one) (ifyou need passport withavalidvisa in complete order;meaningyou’ve gota polite, andmake sure thatyourpapers are officials.Stay experiencedifficult you might Gambia. IfyoucrossbylandfromSenegal, forentering The A fullpassportisessential Gambia The Entering THERE&AWAY GETTING INGAMBIA TRANSPORT walk aroundinminiskirts. You’ll make yourownlife very hardifyou trousers (skirtsare better inMuslimareas). when visitingpeoplesticktolongskirtsor are perfectly butinvillages acceptable, and extent. Inurbanareas, jeansandtops tight onlytoacertain garded. That’strue,though make acrucialdifference tohowyouare re- ing, advances. threaten- sometimesdownright irritating, areas where female readers report themost yourrelationship respected.in ordertosee better torefer toyourboyfriendashusband suitors.ward off note, Onthesame it’salways band isapretty goodstrategy, andcanhelp theboundaries.Inventingyou toset ahus- howfartheycango.you, andsee It’supto toapproachcompanion. Guyswon’thesitate warranted interest isapretty steady travel your ownasawomaninTheGambia,un- While it’snotexactlydangerous totravel on WOMEN TRAVELLERS 326 SN Brussels Slok Air Air SénégalInternational /gcaa) Ave, Banjul) Hub:Dakar. % .be; Kololi) Hub:Brussels. Kairaba Ave,Kairaba Fajara) Hub:Banjul. Most peopletravel toGambiabycharter It’s often suggested thatdress codecan are primehasslezones,and the Beaches 4202117; www.air-senegal-international.com; Ecowas TRANSPORT IN GAMBIA •• Getting There &Away INGAMBIA••Getting TRANSPORT atYundum,about20kmfromthe city (Map (Map pp304-5 ; (Map (Map p299 ; 2U; (Map (Map pp304-5 ;
(BJL; % % % 4377782; www.slokair.com; % Mp p9 V7; p299; (Map 4473117; www.gambia.gm 4412907; www.mirinet 027232323; www.flysn Banjul Inter- Vélingara (D20, 45 minutes, 27km). An- posts to complete yourformalities. of side,and theabsence border Senegalese of theHallahein River, a10km walkonthe saving, ifyou consider apiroguecrossing onthemapisn’tthattime- tine yousee but perfectly possibletodoinahired taxi. isn’t frequently by publictransport, used the tinybordertown Darsilami. Thisroute sible togofromBrikama toKafountine via then change forKafountine. It’s alsopos- could get yourself toDiouloulou via Giboro, Ziguinchor isCFA2200. border postatSéléti,where to abushtaxi totheSenegalese Brikama orSerekunda get toZiguinchor, from youtake ataxi To inSenegal. Gambia andtheCasamance worst roadsof theregion. from BrikamatoSomacountsamong the put upwithsometerrible roads.Thestretch It’s aninteresting journey,butyou’ll have to Trans-Gambia HwytoKaolack andDakar. Gambia River toFarafenni, thenalongthe toSoma,wherefrom Banjul youcrossthe thenextmorning. toBanjul Barra andgettinging inToubacouta theferry from of sleazyhotels. You’d befarbetter off stay- islimited toacouple commodation inBarra ferry (itleaves acrosstoBanjul at7pm),ac- missthelast Dakar andthinkyoumight take theferry Ifyou’re inBarra. comingfrom you’llhave Toget toBanjul, to into Senegal. take you neitherdoGambiantaxis to Banjul, don’tcontinuealltheway taxis Senegalese ofinto ataxi thenationyou’re entering – andGambianborderpost,then Senegalese theto crossthe‘no-man’sland’between change vehicles twice–first intoaminibus border crossingatKarang. to Youneed the Mostpassthrough Dakar andBanjul. as theonlyreliable option. hasleftthebushtaxi (GPTC) busservice Gambia PublicTransportCorporation’s of Thevirtualdisappearance from Senegal. If youtravel byland,you’llinvariablyenter Land West CoastAirways Nelson Mandela St,Banjul)Hub:Accra. Nelson Mandela From Basse Santa Su bush taxis go to Su bushtaxis Santa From Basse The shorthopfrom Kartong toKafoun- If you’re headingforKafountine, you There are afew bordercrossingsbetween optiontakes youeastwardsA second There are frequent connectionsbetween Mp p9 WCG; p299; (Map www.lonelyplanet.com % 7767666; .com) Farafenni, Su. Santa Georgetown andBasse ries acrosstheGambiaRiver are at Barra, and western endof theriver. Themainfer- many pirogueexcursions aroundthecoast (see Banjul p307 pointfor ) isthestarting cursions DentonBridge andcruises. near www.hiddengambia.com) Experience bia River a coupleof touroperators, including There’s noregular transport upriver, though Boat AROUND GETTING Georgetown toKolda. border, butit’sthemostdirect route from there isn’talwaysapostattheSenegalese to Kolda. Thisisn’tvery frequented, and from where asmoothdirtroadtakes you other tinycrossingistheoneatPata, www.lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’ the above -‘Do theright thetermsandconditions onoursite for alongerwayof saying youknow, orresell it.See everyone site,massemailit to only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer Inreturn, we think it’sfairtoask youtouseitforpersonal, non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access thischapterisnotdigitally Tomake bank of theriver, road andthepotholedtar alongthenorthern the potholeddirtroad There are Gambia: twomainroutes though Taxi Bush time (more than12hours) toarrive. reliable, andcantake anextremely long Su,buttheyare Santa not the waytoBasse thatgotoupcountry,all occasional buses almost completely disintegrated. There are of manyWestAfricannations,buthasnow The GPTC busnetworkwasoncetheenvy Bus and Hidden Gambia Gambia Hidden
runexcellentriver ex- ( % 4494360; www.gambiariver
( % in UK01527576239; Gam- TRANSPORT IN GAMBIA •• Getting Around INGAMBIA••Getting TRANSPORT sible andnotyou. problems, it’sthedriver who’ll berespon- of andincase be taken mechanical lightly, on Gambia’sdilapidated roadsshouldn’t able tohire withadriver, ataxi asdriving Gambia’s resort areas, butit’soften advis- It’s possibletohire acarormotorbike in &Motorcycle Car Su. Santa hours forthe360kmtoBasse cantake upto12 Su.Bushtaxis Santa Basse to change fortransporttoGeorgetown and They usuallygotoSoma,where youhave upcountryleavetaxis fromSerekunda. take thesouthernroute.bush taxis Bush better state thanthesouthbank,butmost writing, thenorthbankwasinaslightly along thesouthernbank.Attimeof Gambia drives ontheright. D6000. youbackatleast Suwillset Santa to Basse D1000andD1500,goingup between fortripsaroundthecoastcosts yellow taxi the furtheryougoupcountry.Day-hire of a enormously up fornegotiation).Costsrise are these rates entirely (though low taxi usually atleasttwiceasexpensive asyel- customers. Theirpricesare fairlyfixed, and usuallyparkathotelsist taxis topickup Yellow are taxis just haileddownandtour- be hired forparticularjourneysordaytrips. ones andthegreen Bothcan ‘touristtaxis’. Despite the British heritage, traffic inDespite theBritishheritage, traffic There are twotypesof theyellow taxis, © LonelyPlanetPublications
327 THE GAMBIA THE