Ambassador National Italian American Foundation Vol . 28, No.2 n Winter 2016 n www.niaf.org

A Merry Mario Christmas Wine Tasting: Barolo Old and New Yeah Baby! Iconic Dick Vitale Mystery of the Shroud Acqui Terme Hot Ambassador

37505_Magazine.indd 2 11/25/16 3:53 PM Ambassador The Publication of the National Italian American Foundation Vol . 28, No.2 n www.niaf.org CONTENTS

32 Features

20 An Italian Moment 36 Shrouded in Mystery The 2016 NIAF Faith, Facts and Fascination Photo Contest Winners at Torino’s Museum of 52 the Holy Shroud By Don Oldenburg 26 Merry Mario Christmas On the Cover: Chef Mario Batali on Grilling pizza for Christmas morning Food, Traditions and 40 Hidden Parma Lowlands Joseph V. Del Raso, Esq. Holiday Entertaining Off the Tourist Path in Emilia brunch? Just one Chairman of many unusual By Don Oldenburg By Francesca Cuoghi John M. Viola family traditions President & Chief for some of us. Operating Officer Renowned Chef Don Oldenburg 32 Acqui Terme 44 Dickie V Director of Publications Hot, Hot, Hot — and Not How a High School Mario Batali has & Editor Just the Thermal Springs Basketball Coach Became other ideas. He talks Danielle DeSimone about his family, Social Media Manager By Michelle Fabio a National Sports Icon & Assistant Editor his culinary empire, By Dick Rosano AMBASSADOR Magazine food and holiday is published by the National traditions — and Italian American Foundation (NIAF) 48 The Tasting Life offers a few untra- 1860 19th Street NW Orietta Gianjorio ditional recipes for Washington DC 20009 Sections POSTMASTER: Tastes Food for a Living holiday entertaining. Send change of address to Lettere 4 NIAF, 1860 19th Street NW, By Silvia Donati Washington DC 20009. Foundation Focus 9 Cover photograph: NIAF On Location 11 Melanie Dunea / © 2016 The National Italian 52 Secrets of the Duomo CPi Syndication American Foundation (NIAF). Bottega NIAF 12 No portion of this magazine A Behind-the-Scenes Tour of may be reproduced without Paesani 14 Milan’s Duomo Cathedral written permission from NIAF. Story and Photography Single issue price: $5.00 Ciao Italia 18 By Heather von Bargen ISSN 1000-9999 Between The Pages 60 40 NIAF 1860 19th Street NW Cinema 66 Washington, DC 20009 56 Barolo Old and New Tel. 202-387-0600 On Sports 71 Testing the Controversial www.niaf.org Difference Design: Barbieri & Green, Inc. Pensieri 73 Printing: Mosaic By Dick Rosano NIAF Insider 74 Crossword 80 37505_Magazine.indd 2 2 WWW.NIAF.ORG BETWEENFROM THETHE THE CHAIRMANCHAIRMAN PAGES Ambassador on August24 that devastatingearthquake times ofneed,hascollected $620,357since establishedbyNIAFtohelpItalyin .org), Relief Fund(www.ItalianAmericanRelief 2016. AsIwritethis,TheItalianAmerican tragically tohelpthoseareas ofItaly ness andsupport mention theamazingoutpouringofkind- nextyear! us intherevelry the Gala—andmaybeyou’lldecidetojoin NIAF Insidersectionphotosforaglimpseof weekend! Pleasetakealookatthisissue’s dinner, except giganticandlastingthewhole traditional ItalianAmericanSundayfamily talk, lotsofandfooddrink.Think with laughs,tears,emotions,memoriesand the ItalianAmericancommunity, filled nation’s capital. Italianfestivalinthe to becomethelargest to-be-missed ExpoItalia,whichhasgrown events thatincluded,onceagain,ournot- that GalaAward Dinner.ry Andmore thantwice Washington, D.C.,forNIAF’s 41 1,500 members,guestsandfriendscameto season eachyear. Inmid-October, more than of usgetstheballrolling fortheholiday recent familygathering,onethatformany I’ll keepthisseasonalgreeting brief. So, knowinghowbusyyouare rightnow, festive familygatheringssomeaningful. makes ourmostcherishedtraditionsand spirit andalltheexcitementjoythat expect you’llalready befilledwithholiday inyourmailbox,I Ambassador arrives inmanyGalaWeekend participated On anotherupliftingnote,Iwantto This wasaspectacularcelebrationof First, Idowanttotellyouaboutanother By thetimethiswinterissueof in stuckbyseveralearthquakes from theChairman A HolidayMessage st Anniversa- Americans. So,graziemille.And,inthenext passed ontofuture generationsofItalian heritage andculture, andmakingsure itis andprotecting our inpreserving important can Foundation.Oureducationalworkis oftheNationalItalianAmeri- tinued support season ofcaringandgenerosity. andprayersasweenjoythis in yourhearts claimed nearly300lives.PleasekeepItaly ofcentralItalyand that destroyed parts NIAFChairman and joy. and prosperous NewYear filledwithpeace safe andhappyholidayseasonahealthy Iwishyoua the IALCmembers,andstaff, Your donationsmakeallthatwedopossible. an end-of-yearcharitabledonationtoNIAF. 2017 fastapproach, pleaseconsidermaking the challengesandexcitingpossibilitiesof few weeks,asthisyeardrawstoacloseand I alsowanttothankyouallforyourcon- JosephV. DelRaso, Buon NataleeFeliceAnnoNuovo! On behalfofNIAF’s Board ofDirectors, Dr. Hon. MikeFerguson Daniel M.Dilella Joseph M.DellaRatta Paolo Catalfamo Linda R.Carlozzi,Esq. Nicholas R.Caiazzo,Esq. Maria Bartiromo Peter J.Arduini V.Robert Allegrini Board OfDirectors Salvatore J.Zizza Aileen Riotto-Sirey Francesco Nicotra Richard A.Grasso Mario J.Gabelli Matthew J.DidomenicoSr. Board Emeriti Frank D.Stella Hon. FrankJ.Guarini Colangelo Jerry Dr. A.KennethCiongoli Emeriti Chairmen Jeno F. Paulucci Founding Chairman Ex-Officio Hon. DominicR.Massaro Historian J.Furia Arthur General Counsel Hon. CapriS.Cafaro Secretary E.Carlucci Robert Treasurer John F. Calvelli Kenneth J.Aspromonte Presidents Vice Executive John M.Viola Chief OperatingOfficer President And Salvatore M.Salibello DeStacyHarrison Hon. Patricia Gabriel A.Battista Chairs Vice Joseph V. DelRaso,Esq. Chairman Michael J.Zarrelli Viola Vincent Charles Turano Louis E.Tosi Simeone George Hon. BasilM.Russo,Esq. Dr. JohnP. Rosa Joseph H.Moglia BevacquaMcbride Hon. Anita Joseph D.Lonardo, Esq. Gerard S.Larocca Hon. JosephR.Guccione Frank Giordano AntonioGiordano 11/25/16 3:54 PM 37505_Magazine.indd 3 11/25/16 3:54 PM 4 WWW.NIAF.ORG LETTERE best rato. the this of from Capuccina airport ity and and now elegant; olo is for And on Shining AltoPiemonte Ambassador Reader at the Past To Letters Magazine, Letters We products. La our Piemonte, wines is Bramaterra Barbaresco. wine a Advertise For economical Thank thank Right Lake a time most Capuccina Issues Want — is great territory. visitors, Ghemme may to just and of Orta Curregio, Agriturismo Proprietor Gianluca is now, the you of you beautiful 1860 "High located place 30 be are in to food high the Editor for so and Milano’s Piemonte minutes Ambassador published available offer Boca, Know alternatives The 19th (Fall Langhe much and from destinations the Piemonte" sheen. Zanetta Lake a Italy Italian may and short upper the Street La 2016 good Fara, Gattinara which away. What Malpensa for to be Maggiore, and is chef and Capuccina highest The Feedback NIAF lakes, distance one e-mailed the e-mail issue). Lessona NW, publicity Piemonte to edited And Monfer- to are in Nebbi- You're Barolo of article members visit Washington, are and Italy. qual- [email protected] very La the two for to [email protected] length Thinking! online thank operating and lions Their done bly that the Renee so Ambassador of Friends ofFlorence Sisters Amarone been and Grigio), the about Correction Florence beautifully productive DC prices world and the all has Danielle In of $49 so Italy’s efforts you at the deserve — with 20009. dollars’ Villa clarity. the much germinated NIAF’s each; should for for costs. Chicago, Friends M. Danielle! “Taking story Villa diminus new is de DeSimone’s Ann have the the written. good simply organization Include and all website: Varda worth Brava and have de Villa little in of O’Brien the led the Ill. the Varda the for Florence into organizational notable or fantastic been recognition Trie de Simonetta to your Bitter to of “idea” Villa www.niaf.org. call Florence! Fall many you restorations, Varda an Friends or (Moscato), should full 202-939-3108. $59. de that issue mailed incredi- with Grappas, both they Trustee name and mil- Varda (Pinot has and the of have had in and to and Heat” Letters address. Courtesy A

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Ambassador) Q Fall2016 Grappa's BitterEnd? Anniversary GalaPreview Ciao ItaliaGoesPiemontese! Restoring Florence'sMasterpieces The RealLaCucinaPovera Reviving Piemonte'sAbandonedVineyards d distillery The VilladeVarda Q www.niaf.org or Celebrating Our Heritage JOIN NIAF TODAY!

Building Our Future Celebrating Our Heritage Building Our Future

JOIN NIAF TODAY! I would like to join NIAF $25 Student (under age 24) $250 Patron $2,500 Th e Italian Give The Gift Of Membership! $50 Associate $500 Council American Leadership NIAF offers several levels of support $125 Sustaining $1,000 BusinessCouncil Council to accommodate all contributors. Membership includes a subscription to ______Name Spouse’s Name Ambassador magazine plus other benefits. ______Address Join NIAF today, or help ______friends and family join. City State Zip ______Call 202-387-0600, Email Home Phone Business Phone email [email protected], Mastercard Visa American Express visit www.niaf.org/membership, ______or fill out and send this form. Credit Card Number Expiration Date ______Name (as it appears on card) ______Signature Make checks payable to “The NIAF” and mail to The National Italian American Foundation 1860 19th Street NW Washington, D.C. 20009-5501 202-387-0600 JOIN OUR

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Song returned radio world ican Giada those some enjoyable ers with New 3,000 22nd A Story Annual jitterbugged soprano Among his England and of edition, talk-show taking devoted champion Valenti; chi in beautiful the wife, to photos day the Sergio Memorial entertain a world’s to Latonia Eva backdrop of latest estate the “the fans the host, away by classical accordionist sunny Franchi. popular Franchi in Ryan stage people’s and brightest presentation the singer to Moore; the Concert day of set music Husbands were late music, crowd; rare fixture the and in tenor” the Memorial Sergio young opera Cory Italian Stonington, aficionados on tone vintage songwriter opera and of inspiring lend Foundation National chi partner the Marche James August welcomed Michael Pesaturo. star musical for the Franchi Music singer 32-piece conductor As Valenti its and cars, what James annual a name came of Concert 27. longstanding Italian Summer jazz event. Filippo to Foundation, Conn., and and Amante; period the talents. called would Once Already more was orchestra. the Valenti, Filippo presented back again songwriter Sergio Sergio David Proceeds American sprawling proud Voltaggio again, ushered danc- be home than Among Attracts Voltaggio to Amer- to in and La- an lead Fran- Fran- this its the to by Thousands the go tending Eva Music fund from many Sergio ment — Gershwin, and “La serenaded setting, programming. manages Hungarian standard ers a off practicing moment Traviata” Franchi opera spectacle As By As the the to more Foundation’s perfectly. Franchi the the building enjoying to quality Sergio is to annual Eva Franchiand it’s divas with audience main every set inspired Maestro David editions include was you Air and impossible their the for LaMarche Memorial excerpts and on Franchi performing And ever organizer concert detail refreshing first “La Sergio an its acts a education scholarships instrumentals yet sat the present afternoon hear dizzying Bohème,” history as during back to from concert Franchi to Concert she come the behind Italian miss works in throughout ensured with such array impressive Roaring in pre-concert that of with — how program. did the Memorial has uplifting this such to from gelato celebrated by of ’20s lovely not performing soulful celebrated classy a the popular celebration styles dancers a bright Puccini, disappoint. the strong array while concert outdoor warmups, — Concert music. in jazz, grounds, set and operas future demand. its of being the commit- musicians Ambassador Bizet the arts, perform- dramatic would of From magical day’s lawn is. From song, event with the as the and tone. 9 WWW.NIAF.ORG FOUNDATION FOCUS 10 Ambassador name Cleveland gem including excellent Russo: restaurants andbakeries? What areyourfavoriteItalian on can’t Americans Italian the lina” bar, to your Little Angelo’s Russo: Italian neighborhoodrestaurants? Are thereanyback-in-time authentic best energy neighborhood days. the sitting selling school Italian Mayfield need Cleveland’s Russo: What isthemostItalianpartofyourcity? Finding hometowns. lead youtospecialplacesthatmakethemfeelalittlemoreItalianintheirown members provide or museums, most popularfestivals, Whether it’s thetopItalianrestaurants, Searching forItaly’s influencesinAmerica? 1955. any weekends) street and Little Giovanni’s eyes, or It help to Italy, for outside American restaurants, Di night Step When Our given and is “Just be Great Louie Road Nido an Italian itself reminiscing Nobili you’ve Carl Italys but really love and told city in Thisissue, will Little inNIAFonLocation, authentic Italy clubs, you night. a the bump at Italian Italia Gigolo” is that gives Prima Quagliata’s with is before hold this where in insiderinformationand Ristorante. cigars, makes lined tables restaurants, set time-traveled ambiance. home Italy, front the bakeries, a still place its restaurant Nido foot thebestmarkets its smoke into NIAFBoardMemberBasilRussofindsItalyinCleveland, singing food, about you country. you with and you (live two up door pulsates and own a to into national old because a are. and many can charming culinary don’t great a great genuine shop But people music Italian with the old- of packed “Ange- friends our in back blink down in with old the

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are singers, performed and places call, land, keep proud Italian Russo: An invitation the a ful roll Italian establish community group. the alities Gardens lic include cans heritage Society at Russo: museums, monumentsandculturalcenters? Are thereanyspecialItalianAmerican Sons Mariani concentration the exhibitions. of overseen Italian largest University connect and in and it shoot universities Western and Cleveland The that community American American Cleveland’s that Northeast preserves free an and and represent I’ll the Daughters The American and Italian extensive will by me way. also be of sponsored Bishop you by culture professional — Reserve make charge. Cleveland’s Italian most glad an artistic worked of If has to heritage, Studies one and in Ohio. American email, you that courses 30 Italian your to the Pilla of beautiful a library of experience. you of documents various Garden rich are steer America. works Both director Historical Italian by country diligently Its only heritage. at or feel Program American the in and exploring opera and Cultural collections John give Nido owner Angelo Basil and you Ambassador Archives events Cleve- a hard at nation- of Italian is Ameri- hand- a Italia strong Russo Joyce home to of me pub- with by Sidari, Car- the the to in to the far a with 11 WWW.NIAF.ORG NIAF ON LOCATION Paintings to Wear The tunic is a Bare & Gagliano original created from Michelle Gagliano’s painting By Elissa Abatemarco Ruffino N “Living Fossils.” It features a wide neck and an asymmetrical hem line to accentuate the flow of the painting. The fabric is cotton jersey spandex, which

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Ambassador 13 Christine Rosen Photography NYC 37505_Magazine.indd 14 14 WWW.NIAF.ORG PAESANI Jessica Rinaldi Ambassador Send [email protected]. doing extraordinarythingsofinterestto ItalianAmericans.KnowsomeonewhoshouldbeinPaesani? Ambassador’s PaesanidepartmentprofilesinshortformthelivesofItalian Americans,Italiansandothers — DouglasGladstone so lovingly, youknowthoseownersrespect theircraft.” a smallrestaurant, andyouseethatwhitetableclothlaidout America becausepeopleare fedupwithcommercial chains. them Mondaysthrough Fridays.” dinnersmostItalianfamilieshave?Weafternoon had lemons, figsandfavabeans,”herecalls. “ThosebigSunday byfood.“We was surrounded apricots,cherries, farmed abouthistrade. to learn” ness for11yearsbefore herealized he“hadsomuchmore in 2016,butitwasn’t untilhehadbeeninthepizzabusi- division oftheWorld Italy, PizzaChampionshipsinParma, Throwing Dough that onlyachampionpizzaiolo “Pizza isn’t peasant foodanymore,” hesays.“You gointo Gemignani sayspizzaisexperiencingarenaissance in Gemignani Growing uponhisgrandfather’s farm, Tony GemignaniwonfirstplaceinthePizzaInPala Las Vegas andismentionedtwice and owns15 restaurants inCalifornia mantra asitisawayoflifeforme.” he explains.“That’s notsomucha ders, apizzadough-throwing trick consecutive rolls across theshoul- pizza andforcompletingthemost cords” forcreating theworld’s largest in the“GuinnessBookofWorld Re- yearslater,Fourteen Gemignani “I wasn’t respecting mycraft,” likehimcanaccomplish.

er, Gallagher, looking is ofStriderandhisbigbroth- feature, Rinaldi’s favorite(right) lished withthePulitzer-winning is supposedtobesuchabeautiful,innocenttime.” why theinjusticeofStrider’s situationmovedme.Childhood offamily.grandmother instilledinmetheimportance That’s otherthanchildren inperil.’Bothmygrandfather and story a funnything,”sherecalls. “Isaid,‘IthinkIcoulddoany had discussedthekindofstoriesshewantedtoshoot.“It’s Times ofStriderWolf.” of aNovember8,2015,Globephotoessay, “TheLifeand Maineyoungsterwere thefocus and emotionallyscarred — DouglasGladstone says. “Hereally wouldhaveappreciated whatIdid.” always keptsometiculously. “Iwishhewashere now,” she life datingbacktoWorld War II,andhisphotoalbumswere pride inthathewasalsoashutterbug.“Hechronicled his milkman from theItaliantownofPontelandolfo.Shetakes holding mybreath andhopingitwasinfocus.” not goinganywhere butlookingupatthemoon.Iwas little boysstandingonacarthat’s a metaphor,” shesays.“Thesetwo moon from anoldFord. “It’s such In Focus 2016, shewonthePulitzerPrizeforFeature Photography. up acamerauntilsheattendedcollegein1998.InApril Of her16photographspub- Ironically, of2015,Rinaldiandhereditor atthestart Rinaldi saysherlategrandfatherwasahard-working Boston Globe Rinaldi’s photographs heart-wrenching photographer JessicaRinaldineverpicked upatthe NIAF’s Persons ofInterest

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11/25/16 3:54 PM

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Jessica Rinaldi NIAF’s Persons ofInterest

Jessica Rinaldi 37505_Magazine.indd 15 — GabriellaMileti if youare amember;if www.niaf.org/my-niaf/(valid onlyforsubscriptions).Visit eachboxthereafter first NonnaBoxand10percent off and varietyofItaliancuisine”atourowndinnertables. making itpossibleforeachofustoexperiencetheessence touch passeddownthrough locals’storiesandrecipes.” tion andpreparation; andofcoursethatpersonalculinary andtraditionbehindthefood,itsproduc- omy; thehistory Pedrelli. “There’s theuniquenessofeachregion’s gastron- to Italianfoodthanjustpreparing adishofpasta,”says Italianregion andsixofits Nonna Boxfeatures adifferent Italianproducts intheUnitedStates. Eachmonth, gourmet the storiesandfavoriterecipes ofItaliannonne. products and artisanal our kitchens,deliveringgourmet bring Italy’s authenticregional flavorsandtraditionsto NonnaBox.Themission:to started missing home,thetechentrepreneur Giosuè Carducci. Cesena, oncefrequented byItalianpoet at herfamoustrattoriainSanCarlodi na’s. Weekdays, he’ddrop byforasnack spending Sundayslunchingathisnon- the region ofEmilia-Romagna,GuidoPedrelli grew up Delivering Nonna traditional, the Great news!NIAFmembersreceive 40percent off Pedrelli sayshisgoalisto“bringtheseelementstogether, “At NonnaBox,webelievethere issomuchmore Nonna Boxisthefirstcurated,monthlysubscriptionof Now basedinSanFranciscoand Originally from theItaliancoastalcityofCesenain andhard-to-come-by products. imported not,joinatwww.niaf.org.

crowd hisownrestaurant toenjoywhatiswidely stars. LittledidheknowthenthatA-listerswouldoneday the landmarkLosAngelesrestaurant oncefavored bythe way sincethedayshewasworkingasabusboyatChasen’s, SpectatorGrandAward winnersince1981. Wine food issimple,”hesays.“Whatmattersthequality.” “AuthenticItalian to, balsamicvinegarandwhitetruffles. oliveoil,risot- prosciutto, extravirgin mozzarella, burrata, good asthoseIhadvisitedinItaly.” States, Ipromised myselfIwouldmakemyrestaurant as totheUnited world.” herecounts. “WhenIreturned motherland: “Idiscovered awholenewgastronomic Selvaggio movedpastthataftertakingatripbacktothe tomatoes, strawflaskChiantiandcheckered tablecloths. meant heavysauces,lotsofgarlicand Italian cuisineintheUnitedStates of ItaliandiningintheUnitedStates. who helpedrevolutionize theconcept Award, Selvaggioistheman Service James Beard Foundation’s Outstanding Monica, Calif.,stillkeepstohiscredo. Selvaggio, who,46yearsafteropeningValentino inSanta in theirgastronomic journey,” saysrestaurateur Piero Plating Authenticity — SilviaDonati ered someofthebestItalianfoodinAmerica. LA Flashed A nativeofModica,Sicily, Selvaggiohascomealong The foodismatchedbyawinelistthathasbeen And sohedid.Heintroduced Americanstofresh When Valentino openedin1972, A recipient oftheprestigious restaurant needsaguidetoaccompanypatrons “Every Ambassador consid-

11/25/16 3:54 PM

Ryan Forbes 15 WWW.NIAF.ORG PAESANI 37505_Magazine.indd 16 16 WWW.NIAF.ORG PAESANI Ambassador fession. Jr. Bartus — Robert mdelchiarocenter.org “I’m diggingmyownroots,” www. says Pieraccini.Visit scribes herlife’s passion. was of theEtruscans.” ley. She’s alsotheco-editorofabookseries atBerke- Ancient ItalianStudiesatUniversityofCalifornia Egypt, ilizations teacherdiscussedtheancientworldsof and earlyRomanarchaeology. of California a she digsupItaliansoil.Asaclassicalarchaeologist with nails and on weekendsathis Diggin’ Heritage inexcavating expertise landnowcalledTuscany,in theancientEtruscans’ her

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up — FrancesA.Sclafani,Esq. Shades ofTwilight.” tina’s newly publishedbookoftheological members worldwide.PopeFrancishasacopyofherpoetry. in2013,andhas of SainthoodforClementinawasformed complex andlengthyprocess. TheSodalityfortheCause entina. CanonizationintheRomanCatholicChurch isa Clem- documentation ofotherholyeventsconcerning ceived numerous lettersofhealings,favors,conversionsand brate herfuneral. sy’s Nunciosenthispersonalrepresentative toconcele- of theAnnunciation,March 25,2009.TheVatican Embas- the manandwomanonstreet. ShediedontheFeast aswell and charitywasrecognized bynotableclergymen dailyatthe D.C., sheledtheRosary world. WhenshemovedtoWashington, to charitiesandmissionsthroughout the devoted tothepoor, thehomeless,and you gettheideashewasextraordinary. General CharlesDeGaulleofFrance.So to christenashipandpresent flowersto the Brooklyn NavyYard andwaschosen mass attendeeandcommunicant.Andsomuchmore…. Sclafani wasapoet,composer, wife,mother, widow, daily gina PacisinBrooklyn, N.Y., ClementinaTheresa Polite Saintly Life Chur In May2016,theVatican Embassypresented Clemen- Since herdeath,CatholicChurch officialshavere- Sclafani wasaGod-centered woman In World War II,Sclafaniworkedat intheItalianAmericanparishofSt.Rosalia-Re- Born ch oftheAnnunciation.HerlifeChristianvirtue The bookisavailableatAmazon.com. poetry, “The

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37505_Magazine.indd 17 11/25/16 3:54 PM 18 WWW.NIAF.ORG CIAO ITALIA Changing UpTraditionalHolidayFare Ambassador N in popular granates and prepared the red loin will be dition welcoming zampone in and a chance brodo so different. presentation be pomegranate accompanied traditional every Italians. of atale For I’ve many for a the for centuries followed succulent and fall ( to and many during part most melagrana Italian in Christmas show and The For lentils, Capodanno the was years, dishes, revered wonderfully home winter centerpiece the the sauce off with New in roasted religious used. a ) Italy, time those winter have but must dinner, a Year. like cooks, that fruit beautiful holidays And this honored pork pigs are long cherished for will works cappelletti months festive. depicted for year pome- they’re and two were tender- make been Natale for deep- will of tra- a circa ( “Madonna Madonna Sandro of and is olate became going player my nut and Inglese pomegranate holding Botticelli, na the art today. 1487 one’s of as Sicilian church. sauce, the offer Buon Sometimes Also, Botticelli’s starting della the of a back and in symbol the taste the This the comfort the Melagrana this a Pomegranate” Natale which taking Pomegranate” heritage. Befana some chocolate mecca My infant development is cake in year, in a of the it favorite e gift his 400 depicts my ); zone! cake Buon is is fertility I for Jesus, early will dense good Sicily hand. to inspiration years; cake everything for your Anno! skip is 1800’s by the who was New to and of with and the and Sandro senses. the step chocolate, Madonna a grasps “Madon- unity fudgy Years wal- Torino huge and from Zuppa choc- out still of a 1 1 1 1¼ 1 minced 1 ½ 1 ½ 2 Ingredients Serves holiday — this flavor own. der; No Sauce Pomegranate Cranberry Grilled PorkTenderloin with tablespoon large tablespoon tablespoon cup pounds), whole cup cup pomegranates cups a question tablespoon pomegranate perfect it So, 4 granulated is just apple dried pomegranate clove table. pork to a isn’t good add trimmed combination cranberries cider pork garlic, extra coarse rosemary tenderloin a that kosher or way delicious sugar and tenderloin ready virgin minced flavorful black to juice cranberry give salt needles, prepared (1½ olive for from pepper sauce it on your is to more oil ten- 4 2 its like sauce large juice

John Hession John Hession

37505_Magazine.indd 19 John Hession • • • • • Preheat anoutdoorgrill. • • Directions warm. Coverandkeepthesauce mary. Remove from heat,stirintherose- consistency.the mixture isasyrupy ries, sugarandcider. Simmeruntil small saucepan;addthecranber- sauce andserve. Drizzle cutting itintodiagonalslices. Allow ittorest for5minutebefore grill andlooselytentitwithfoil. Remove register 145°F. ofthemeatshould thickest part intothe inserted thermometer ness. Formediumrare, ameat utes persidedependingonthick- Grill mixture. Setaside. olive oil,thenroll itinthegarlic Rub lic onsheetofwaxpaper. Combine Pour theporktenderloinwith thetenderloinfor5to7min- thepomegranatejuiceina themeatwithsomeof thetenderloinfrom the thepepper, saltandgar- 1 ¼ teaspoonsalt orange Zest of1large ½ cupsugar eggs 3 large ½ cupunsaltedbutter Pinch salt ¾ cupheavycream 2 tablespoonsflour 3 tablespoonsunsaltedbutter Ingredients for Sauce 3 2 cupswalnuthalves Ingredients forCake 8 Serves takes butafewminutestomake. The sensualcream andwalnutsauce like puddingifyoudon’t overcook it. walnut cakeisdenseintexture, almost This dreamy, fudgychocolateand Torta alCioccolataconNoci Chocolate Walnut Cake broken intosmallpieces extract ororangeliquor   tablespoon ounces semisweetchocolate, plus1teaspoonvanilla

• • • • • • • • • • • Preheat theovento325°F Directions • mixture thickens. bowl withahandheldmixeruntilthe Melt nice alternative. Variation: Hazelnutinsteadofwalnutsisa pour someofthesauceover thetop. liquor. and 1teaspoonofvanillaororange the heatandstirinremaining walnuts and thickened.Removethesaucefrom medium heatuntilthesauceissmooth sugar andsalt.Cookthemixture over in thecream andstirintheremaining is smoothandwellblended.Slowlypour Cook for1minutemakingsure thepaste butter inasaucepanandstirtheflour. cake andplaceitonaplate. discard theparchment paper. the Invert the panontoacoolingrack.Removeand of thepantoloosencakeandinvert should remain moist. out clean.Donotoverbakethecake.It inthemiddlecomes cake skewerinserted prepared pan. chocolate, andpourthemixture intothe Then, stirinthewalnuts,then spoon ofthevanillaororangeliquor.  blended. Setaside. chocolate andmixuntilsmoothwell wave orinasmallsaucepan.Stirthe  coarsely ground. Setaside. a foodprocessor andprocess themuntil  T  T Run Cool Bake Stir Beat Cool Place Butter   lightly butterthepaper. Setaside. paper tofitthebottomofpanand Line thedishwithacircle ofparchment  grant. Donotletthemburn. them overlowheatuntiltheysmellfra- cutthecakeintowedges and o serve: o makethesauce:Meltremaining inthesalt,orangezest,and1table- abutterknifealongtheinsideedge theeggsandsugarinamediumsize thebutterinabowlmicro- thecakeinpanfor30minutes. andtransfer1 forabout30-35minutesoruntila thewalnutsinasautépanandstir a9-by-1½inchround bakingdish. 1 / 3 cupsofthenutsto

ciaoitalia.com. videos, visitwww. recipes andcooking For moreholiday Ann Esposito. Classics” byMary “Ciao ItaliaFamily Recipes from Ambassador

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19 WWW.NIAF.ORG CIAO ITALIA 37505_Magazine.indd 20 20 WWW.NIAF.ORG Ambassador An ItalianMoment next Summer! five Second-Place WinnersalsowonNIAF Associate Memberships. Gala Weekend, plus a one-year NIAF Associate Membership. Each the of 14-15 October the over events all ticketsto flights, and including hotel student at Wake Forest University, who won a NIAF Gala package for two, er. ContestPhoto TheNIAF 2016 Grand Prize Maddie is Winner Arnel,a nical quality, composition, andhowwelltheyexpressed thetheme. the top six photos from 26 semi-finalists, taking into consideration choosing tech- of task difficult the faced judges Our Contest. Photo annual our in quality for benchmark the raised again, that, images of dreds “Italy BeyondItaly”and“ItalianCulture and Values.” depicting images submit to photographers professional and amateur Italian.being yearssince,spirit,the Italian In invited essenceof we the launched it four years ago. That first year, the theme was italianità — the ty ue fr h NA 21 Poo ots t b announced be to Contest Photo 2017 NIAF the for tuned Stay When the votes were tallied, the contest could not have been clos- This year, the concept was “An Italian Moment.” NIAF received hun- NIAF’s annualphotocontesthascomealongwaysincewe The NIAF2016PhotoContest Winners

GrandPrize Winner 41st Anniversary Gala Weekend Maddie Arnel attheNIAF generations thatfollow. and itspowertoshapeonegeneration tothe Italyexists: where theessence of Tradition in mygrandmother’s homeinMullins, S.C., The photowas shotonSeptember17, 2016, heritage. the comfortof time movesforward inmodernity, werelish in my sistersothatshewillcarryontradition. As skill andhard work. They gentlyguide those of my grandmother’s hands—thatknow Italian momentsare definedbythecrevices in Ai lensandNikon SB-80external flashunit Camera: Nikon D200withNikon Nikkor 50mm Winston Salem, N.C. Madison Arnel 11/25/16 3:54 PM 37505_Magazine.indd 21 often beeternal. Giovanni Verga pennedhisextraordinary novel“IMalavoglia” withthisvillageas the backdrop. Sicilianlifehasnot changed. Muchof Momentscan instantintime.A momentisusuallydefinedasabrief However, thisfishermanin Acitrezza, Italy, is repairinghisnetsinthesamefashionaswhen The photowastaken onSeptember14, 2016, Lecce (Puglia), inthehistoricdistrictof Italy. Ecco lasposa! Who doesn’tloveawedding? This street scenedepictsamemorable Italianmomentasthebrideandherfatherarriveat church. Camera: Fujifilm XT-10 Boynton Beach, FL Joan Nova Second Place Camera: Canon EOS20D Brooklyn, N.Y. Zarba Joseph Angelo Second Place Ambassador 11/25/16 3:54 PM 21 WWW.NIAF.ORG 37505_Magazine.indd 22 22 WWW.NIAF.ORG Ambassador incredible hillsidelandscapewithpicturesque cloudsthatseemstoalwaysbefloatingoverUmbria. tive. myfavoritequalitiesaboutItaly,This photocontainssomeof theUmbriancitywithitsbeautiful churches, thehistoricstonefortress, andthe The incredibleAssisi, cityof 2015, inthesummerof taken from theRocca Maggiore leaving thecircular stonewindowtooffer auniqueperspec- in Italy’s Abruzzo region. It’s alostItalianmomenton capturing the lost art of traditional pastapreparation capturing thelostartof generations of Italian generationsAmericans toexperiment of with my familyfriends Versano Photography formybook stomach wanttosingthemomentyouenjoyabowl of Spaghetti allaChitarra.of This photowastaken by a Sundayafternoon. Ihopeitrekindles memories, “Italian Moms:Spreading Their Art toEvery Table,” longer withus. Ihopemyphotoinspires younger since manynonnaswhomastered thisartare no No itdoesn’tmake music, butitdoesmake your this classic Italiantradition. Second Place Camera: Nikon D750 Elisa Costantini Collegeville, Pa. Camera: Sony A7RII Digital Flushing, N.Y. John Frattasi Second Place of Italianprideandculture inthe21stcentury.of rarely visitedbyoutsiders, itremains atrulyauthenticvoice theirday-to-daylife.that are partof Often overlooked and together bytheculinary, religious andfolklorictraditions Molise, thesmallestregion insouthernItaly, isstillbound Campobasso, theirtownintheprovince of saint of Molise. SanLorenzo,ieri Marshalduringtheprocession of patron Angelo Colaneri, walks proudly alongsidethelocalCarabin- Photographed on August 10, 2016: Busso,The mayorof Nostro Paese (Ourtown) SLR lens 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6ISII Mark iiandaCanon EF-S Camera: Canon EOS7D Santa Rosa, Calif. Ian Nelson Second Place 11/25/16 3:54 PM © 2016 First Data Corporation. All Rights Reserved. All trademarks, service marks and trade names referenced in this material are the property of their respective owners. respective their of property the are material this in referenced names trade and marks service trademarks, All Reserved. Rights All Corporation. Data First 2016 Connected Commerce World for a FirstData.com more value to your business. experiences to your customers anddrive across theglobe,helpingyou deliver better be conducted more securely andintelligently Our innovative solutionsenablecommerce to generation technology insideandout. an experienced leader thatknows next- easy task. Itmakes senseto partner with Guiding your businessinto thefuture isno 225106 2016.10225106 Ambassador Ad Commerce for a Connected World

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Website: www.cibo-italia.com Telephone: 201-440-1234 Fax: 201-440-1122 37505_Magazine_X.indd 26 26 WWW.NIAF.ORG Ambassador Ambassador TRADITIONS ANDHOLIDAY ENTERTAINING CHEF MARIOBATALI ONFOOD, [ 1 \ Melanie Dunea/CPiSyndication 11/29/16 6:29 PM 37505_Magazine.indd 27 it’s sorightonthemoney. cialty. Onceyoutasteit,know Pankie orsandwichlocalspe- shop thatmakesthebestHanky great neighborhoodrestaurantor than More often when itblowsdownmainstreet. tastes thewaywindsmells I cangotofindsomethingthat working withandaskthemwhere inspired totalkwhomeverI’m or regionneighborhood,I’m time Iexperienceanewtown lot ofplacesinmylifeandevery Batali: I’mfortunatetotravela inspiration? ern pierogies.Whatwasyour Orleans étoufféeandMidwest- Philly cheesesteakstoNew from SanDiegofishtacosand the country, simpledishes favorite recipesfromacross American cookingwithyour goes totheheartofregional pes fromAcrosstheUSA,” book: 250FavoriteReci- Batali: BIGAmericanCook- Your newcookbook,“Mario keep doingthat!—DonOldenburg “Whatever getsyoursonsinthekitchenand a familyritualthatgetsmythree sonsrolling uptheirsleevesatmyhouse,Batalisays (seecover), felt aboutoutdoor-grilled NapoletanopizzasforChristmasDaybrunch being acelebritychef. azine aboutwritinghisnewcookbook,growing upinafood-focusedfamily, and Braciola PinwheelwithHorseradishGremolata andBroccoli Rabe.HailtotheChef! SquashSaladwithFriseeandPecorinodiNewYork;Sage; Warm Butternut andBeef Minister MatteoRenzi.Themenuincluded:SweetPotatoAgnolottiwithButterand prepare the last all about.InOctober, hetookabreak from hisimpossiblybusyscheduletoplanand and atireless promoter ofauthenticandcreative Italiancuisine. relentless advocatefortheSlowFoodmovementandFarm-to-Table concept; ality; aphilanthropist committedtofeeding,caringforandeducatingchildren; a counting Boston’s newEatalyafterThanksgiving);anEmmy-winningTVperson- of 11cookbooks;co-owner26restaurants andfourEatalymarketplaces(five empire. latest newsfrom hisconstantlyexpandingculinary tointroduce thiswhirlwindmaestro ofthekitchenrisksleavingout Even trying Mario Batalineedsnointroduction. He alsotalkedaboutfoodandtraditionstheholidayseason!Askedhowhe Batali alsotooksometimerecently toanswerquestionsforAmbassadormag- Quite amouthful?Well, Bataliis mouthfulsare whattheSeattle-born-and-raised One ofAmerica’s mostrenowned celebritychefs,Bataliisthebestsellingauthor not,I’mledtoa StateDinnerfortheObamaWhiteHouse,honoringItalianPrime time andtempinsomecases! dishes, exceptformaybecook right waytomakinganyofthese Thereisno or thinandvinegary. love, whetherit’sthickandsweet Pizza, useabarbecuesauceyou their hand.So,fortheBBQChicken know howtomakelikethebackof variations ondishestheyalready have availabletothemmake spire homecookstousewhatthey did itwaswrong,butrathertoin- not tosuggestthewayOG’s Batali: Isuggesttweakstorecipes recipes didyoustay? How truetotheoriginallocal is myabsolutefavorite. Seafood frommyhometownregion the crabomelettesofmyyouth. so thequicheismyhomageto of Dungenesscrabgrowingup, remind meofhome.We hadalot the Pacific Northwestchapter Batali: Manyoftherecipesin hometown? your parents’kitchenor Which ofitsrecipescomefrom bondsyourfamilyindeeptradition…

mous ItaliandinnerwithGrandma! Sundaywehadanenor- and every a lotwithGrandmaBataliaswell, an excellentcook,too!We cooked exceptmymomis Batali: Alltrue, scratch…pastas, sausages? who madeeverythingfrom largely camefromyourfather, Your passionforcooking Consider meahugefan. Maple CreamPie,FriedPeach Pies. some ofmyfavorites.ChessPie, guy, Ihavetosaythatthosearenow And evennotbeingadessertkindof this book,wewentdessert-heavy. Butfor a nicepieceoffreshfruit. Americans do.Italiansareokaywith reallydodessertstheway ians don’t in mostof Batali: I’vesteeredclearofdesserts your favorites? Which disheshavebecome threats yet. receivedany Batali: Ihaven’t their Tomato Pie? bought intoyoursuggestionfor So, thefolksfromTrenton have mybooksbecauseItal-

and Ilovetoseethat. whole animal,manyhaveconverted understand thedishandrespect from go10feet were peoplethatwouldn’t offal –whenIfirststartedout,there brains, to deliciousfoods.Lamb’s opening theirpalatesandminds Batali: Ilovefeedingpeopleand being achef? What doyoumostloveabout technique was. herpasta-making pure andperfect ravioli withoxtailraguandhow tion, Ithinkabouthercalvesbrain of year, whenwe celebratetradi- Thistime ravioli werelegendary. in theBatalihouseholdandher She wasundeniablythebestcook tion andfamilyfrommyGrandma. alotaboutcooking,tradi- learned I recipes/calves-brain-ravioli/). tail Ragu(www.mariobatali.com/ Batali’s CalfBrainRavioliwithOx- Batali: That’dhavetobeGrandma erations What specificdishesspangen- American dishes,publishedinOctober. Mario Batali’s newcookbookofregional [ thosedishes.Buthelpingthem oftheBatalifamily? 1 \ \ 1 Ambassador [

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27 WWW.NIAF.ORG 37505_Magazine.indd 28 28 WWW.NIAF.ORG Ambassador Batali: “Moltissimo”isallabout “The Chew”? Mario,” “IronChef,”andlately come fromyourworkon“Molto a naturaloncamera.Doesthat show “Moltissimo,”you’resuch On yournewVice Channels And thatextendstotelevision? as that. connects usall….It’sassimple knowledge aboutgreatfood.Food love toeducateandspread Batali: Ilovetocookbutalso eat greatfood? mission toteachtheworld Do youfeellikeyou’reona 10 minutes. until themixture boilsandthickens,about • Graduallywhiskinthemilkandcook brown, about7minutes. • Addtheflourandstiruntillightgolden about 10minutes. and clovescookuntilgoldenbrown, butter overmediumheat.Addtheonion • Inaheavy, mediumsaucepan,meltthe 9-inch round gratindish. • Preheat theovento375°F. Buttera bowl. large 2 tablespoonssalt.Setup watertoaboilandadd • Bring8quarts Freshly ground blackpepper 1/2 teaspoonfreshly gratednutmeg 1/2 cupplus2tablespoonsgratedParmi- 3 buncheskale(about11/2pounds), 2 cupswholemilk 1/4 cupall-purposeflour 2 wholecloves 1/2 cupchoppedSpanishorwhiteonion 6 tablespoonsunsaltedbutter, plusmore Kosher salt 6to8 Serves when youare cookingitforthebéchamel. it upabit,addsomebacontotheonion big steakandred wine.Ifyouwanttojack bone thatmakesitworkevenbetterwith creamed spinachwitharichmineralback- This dishisthebestofsteakhouse-style giano-Reggiano roughly chopped for thebakingdish

anicebathina one. Iseealotofyoungtalented is atoughjobandnotforevery- of blood,sweatandtears.Cooking easy transitionbuttherewasalot Batali: Itmaylooklikeitwasan seems? en toTVkitchenaseasyit Was yourtransitionfromkitch- a meal…. and we’rechattingwhilemaking to Mario” about food.It’salittlebitof"Mol- to knowpeopleandteachingthem about cookingforpeopleisgetting laughs. OneofthethingsIlove wine, food,conversationand

inthatthereareguests el orcheeseclothandsqueezeoutasmuch • Rollupthecookedkaleinakitchentow- drain well. the icebathto 2 minutes.Drainthekaleandtransferto cook untiljustwiltedandtender, about • Addthekaletoboilingwaterand • Removethecloves. whisking frequently, for5minutesmore. • Reducetheheattolowandsimmer, coolfor5minutes,then that’s that. molto!” whileI’monmyVespa and Most peoplejustshout“hey, fame) makesmemorerelatable. (that happenstohavesteppedinto by peopleorcameras.Beingachef neighborhood andnotbemobbed in thatIcan cause I’mnotaGwynethPaltrow Batali: Ido,butthat’salsobe- Do youlovethespotlight? fun stuff, likeTV, willfindyou! to lovecookingandthentheother That’s nothowtodoit.You have with theobjectiveofbeingonTV. chefs whogotocookingschool stillwalkthroughmy minutes, untilbubbly. andbakefor30 tablespoons Parmigiano, gratin dish,topwiththeremaining 2 • Pourthemixture intothebuttered salt andpepper, andmixwell. andthenutmeg,seasonwith Parmigiano sauce.Add1/2cupofthe it tothewarm • Finelychopthecookedkale,thenadd liquid aspossible. cooking onChristmasDay. What MarioBataliprobablywon’tbe 11/25/16 3:55 PM

Quentin Bacon Quentin Bacon 37505_Magazine.indd 29 immediately. serve heated through. Stirintheparsleyand clams, withtheirjuices,andtossuntiljust toloosenthesauce).Stirin necessary pastawaterif two more ofthereserved the pastaiswellcoated(addasplashor and stirtossovermediumheatuntil pastawatertotheclambroth reserved • Addthepastaand1⁄4cupof ing about1⁄2cupofthepastawater. and cookuntiljustaldente.Drain,reserv- • Drop thepastaintoboilingwater the potfrom theheat. the clams the clamsopen,about5minutes;transfer cook, shakingthepotoccasionally, until red pepperflakes,andclams,cover, and softened, about1minute.Addthewine, medium- highheatuntilthegarlicis over potandcook,stirring, in alarge • Meanwhile,combinetheoilandgarlic pot andadd3tablespoonskoshersalt. watertoaboilinlarge • Bring6quarts 1 pounddriedlinguinecupcoarsely 1 poundsmallclams,suchasManila,or 1 tablespoonhotred pepperflakes whitewine 6 tablespoonsdry 3 garliccloves,minced oliveoil 6 tablespoonsextravirgin Kosher salt 6 Serves 2010) (ecco ofMoltoGusto Recipe courtesy Batali restaurants,names When peoplethinkofMario in anddayout. a platetocompletestrangerday satisfaction togetbringjoyon a fewdowns,andheckof ofups, where Ishouldbe.Lots butit’sexactly for everyone, Batali: It’sdefinitelynotaworld reality ofyourworld? to anyconclusionsaboutthe Did workingonitbringyou pinch ofrealismtothemovie. undoubtedly broughtalarge ley Cooperfilm“Burnt,”you While consultingontheBrad- chopped fresh Italianparsley cockles, scrubbed toabowlastheyopen.Remove

restaurant Lupa Mario Batali’s famousNewYork City

Kelly Campbell them investedandexcitedby to haveapieceofthepie,keep give greatemployeesthechance them happy.Sowedecidedto you needtofindawaykeep the kitchen.Whenyouhavetalent, were outgrowingtheirspacein had trainedinourrestaurantsand We hadagreatgroupoftalentthat never Batali: What motivatesyoutoexpand? empire extendsmuchfarther. of course.But,yourculinary Posto, EscaandLupa,Eataly, that comeupareBabbo,Del setouttohavean“empire.” Joe[Bastianich]andI Batali: Havingsomany anymore? the pastaorfinishasauce restaurant’s kitchenandplate Do yougetintooneofyour is worthitsweightingold. under control.Thatpieceofmind the restaurantandkitchenare matter whereIam, part, though,isthatIknowno concepts tomorepeople.Thebest to growandexpandbringour for usandwe’vealsobeenable new restaurants. asking themtotakethehelmof So farthishasworkedoutwell that Icantrust Ambassador 11/25/16 3:55 PM

Quentin Bacon 29 WWW.NIAF.ORG 37505_Magazine.indd 30 30 WWW.NIAF.ORG Ambassador freezerjamthatwemade berry some saltedbutterandhomemade toast afewpiecesandspreadon beautiful panettone.We loveto Batali: We’re some alwaysgifted fast orbrunch? Christmas morningsforbreak- pizza, whathappensonyour Now abouttheholidays:Ifnot bit ofinteractionisimportant. “hi” for10minutes,butthattiny mean justpoppinginandsaying rants onaregularbasis.Itmight spend timeineachofmyrestau- line butIdomakemyroundsand restaurants, it’stoughtoworkthe chicken shouldbecompletelysubmerged of thebird toprevent itfrom floating.The chicken inthebrine.Placeaplateontop • Addtheiceandstir. the Submerge to dissolve. together. Pourintheboilingwaterandstir stir thesalt, enoughtoholdthechicken, bowl large • Inaplasticcontainerorstainless-steel Directions toMaketheBrine 1 smallred onion,thinlysliced 6 sprigsfresh marjoram 8 clovesgarlic 1 bunchfresh thyme 1 lemon,slicedthin 2 tablespoonsfreshly ground blackpepper 2 tablespoonskoshersalt oliveoil 3 tablespoonsextra-virgin 1 (2½to3pound)free-range chicken Ingredients fortheChicken ice 2 quarts boilingwater 2 quarts ½ cupapplecider 1 bunchfresh rosemary 1 stickcinnamon 1 cupkoshersalt Ingredients fortheBrine 4 Serves Table” (GrandCentralLife&Style;2014) to of“AmericaFarm en. Recipecourtesy both tocookandeat,thanroasted chick- There isalmostnothingmore satisfying, andcider cinnamon,rosemary

Chef MarkLadner, inNewYork City tianich, LidiaBastianichandExecutive collaboration ofMarioBatali,JoeBas- Interior oftheacclaimedDelPosto,a Kate Previte

In asmallbowl,mixthesaltandpepper • Rubthewholechickenwitholiveoil. 30 minutes. tor andletstandatroom temperature for • Removethechickenfrom the • Preheat theovento475°F. Directions toMaketheChicken before roasting. better —overnight, ered, foratleastanotherhour, or—even place intherefrigerator toair-dry, uncov- • Placethebrinedbird onaplateand thoroughly withpapertowels. thechicken thebrine,thendry • Pouroff but nolonger. • Coverandrefrigerate for1to4hours, throughout thebriningprocess. Are yoursonsfollowingin need abigChristmasdinner! enough ofatreatthatyoudon’t anditmaybe some blacktruffle, dish tocelebratetheholiday.Add enough tofeellikeit’saspecial yourdinnerbutluscious not ruin alla carbonara.It’slightenoughto popular Romandish,spaghetti not toodistantfromthemore and egg).It’sasimpledish ghetti withahole,sheep’scheese Perciatelli concacaoeuova(Spa- in Michigan.Sogood! together overtheprevioussummer snackIlove For anafternoon refrigera- and serve. minutes. Carve placeandletrest for10to15 in awarm • Transfer the registers 160°F. ofthethigh,awayfrom thebone, part intothethickest inserted thermometer clearandaninstant-read thigh juicesrun • Continuecookingthechickenuntil minutes at475°F. a roasting pan.Roastthechickenfor65 • Placethechickenonaracksetinside slices, andonioninthechicken’s cavity. thyme, garlic,marjoram,remaining lemon each breast, centered beautifully. Placethe • Place1sliceoflemonundertheskin with themixture. and seasonthechickeninsideout

What holidaytraditionshave the goal. like you’regoingtowork.That’s you lovesomuch,neverfeel them is,thetrickistofindajob they decidetotake.WhatItell but I’mproudofwhateverpath their follow after the kitchenwithme.Shouldthey grown upspendingalotoftimein of theirmindrightnow, butthey’ve saycookingistop gan. Iwouldn’t college attheUniversityofMichi- arebothin Batali: BennoandLeo kitchen? orange-croc footstepsinthe platter chickentoawarmed dad,I’dlovethat, 11/25/16 3:55 PM

Quentin Bacon 37505_Magazine.indd 31 the ovenduringlast12minutesof minutes, untiljusttan.(You canputitin for12 • Prebake theprepared piecrust mash withafork. bowl,and the skins,putfleshinalarge soft. Whencoolenoughtohandle,remove themoverhalfwaythrough, until turning the bakingsheetandroast for60minutes, the tipofasmall,sharpknife.Placeon mat. Prickeachpotatoseveraltimeswith • • Preheat theovento400°F. Whipped cream forserving 1 teaspoonfreshly gratednutmeg 1 teaspoonvanillaextract 2 tablespoonsmolasses,plusmore for 2 tablespoonsbourbon,optional 1/2 cuphalf-and-half 1 cuppackedlightbrown sugar 4 tablespoonsunsaltedbutter, melted eggs 3 large in9-inchpan 1/2 recipe BasicPieCrust 2 poundssweetpotatoes(3to4large) Potato Pie don’tputthemonSweet Southerners but true on theirsweetpotatosidedishatThanksgiving, by aNortherner. Somepeopleputmarshmallows lookingatonemade probably mallow top,you’re amarsh- If youseeaSweetPotatoPiesporting & Style2016) American Cookbook(GrandCentralLife ofMarioBataliBig Recipe courtesy your ownchildhood? you carriedonwiththemfrom itinNaples,Liguria, I’ve observed es, andtheFeastof11fishes. Fishes, theFeastofNineFish- experienced theFeastofSeven fishes tradition.Over Batali: Yes, wedefinitelyhonorthe mas traditions? Any specificallyItalianChrist- Batali familyfavorite?Nutella! their ownpizzellesandwiches.A getstocreate do that.Everyone cookies, withmyfamily.We still to makepizzelle,orthinwaffle Batali: WhenIwasakid,used Lineabakingsheetwithfoilorsilicon optional serving, (see below) theyears,I’ve

of lavigiliaisradicallydifferentin Bologna andRome.Theexecution Mario BatalionABC’s “TheChew” Jeff Neira/ABC blender—or coat intheflour, thenmixwithapastry baking powder. Addthebutterandtossto bowl,combineflour,• Inalarge salt,and 1/2 cupicewater, ormore asneeded butter, cutintosmallcubes coldunsalted 1 1/2cups(3sticks)very 1/2 teaspoonbakingpowder 1 teaspoonkoshersalt 3 1/2cupsall-purposeflour crust or1double two 9-inchdeep-dishpiecrusts, Basic PieCrust a drizzleofmolasses,ifyoulike. withsoftlywhippedcream and ture. Serve gins toset.Allowcoolroom tempera- bake for45minutes,untilthefillingbe- and •Pour thefillingintopiecrust asmoothfilling. mix toform smooth. Addtheroasted sweetpotatoand like), molasses,vanilla,andnutmeg ter, sugar, half-and-half,bourbon(ifyou paddle attachment,combinetheeggs,but- •In thebowlofastandmixerwith temperature to350°F. the potatoesroasting.) Reducetheoven flour, thenwrapinplasticandrefrig- 2discs.Dustthemwithmore and form the doughoutofbowl.Cutitinhalf withflourandturn • Dustaworksurface sor, butshouldbedoneintwobatches.) ingredients canbemixedinafoodproces- (The tablespoonful atatime,ifnecessary. just comestogether, addingmore watera the icewaterandmixinuntildough through thedough.Add6tablespoonsof is cutintotinybitsandincorporated that willtakelonger—untilthebutter thebackofafork,though

family celebrations? iday traditionsblendintoyour Does yourwife’s childhoodhol- some sourcreamandfancycaviar company over, welike family favorite.Whenwehave fresh applesauce.It’sanother year, wemakepotatolatkesand City celebratingHannukah.Every Batali: SusigrewupinNewYork things. simplify usually settleonfourorfiveto single occasion.Thesedayswe they havebeendeliciousonevery The dishesareallgeospecific,but each regionandhousehold. until

toputout your work dust • Whenready toroll outthecrust, erate foratleast2hoursoruptodays. pies. ble-crusted indou- for anotherpie,orasatopcrust ready tofill.Theseconddisccanbeused until over thesides.Refrigeratecrust dough andcutawayanyexcesshanging across. Carefully lineapiepanwiththe to roll outthedoughtoatleast12inches

andusearolling pin surface themwith flourishandjoy. serve dients assimplypossibleand Batali: Usethebestlocalingre- underlying philosophy? your restaurants,whatisthe In allofyourrecipes, the winter! pietolastusthrough blackberry and and makingenoughpreserves summer withmybrotherandsister berries outsideofSeattleinthe Batali: Probablypickingblack- food memory? Your bestchildhoodholiday time. every to topthelatke.It’sahomerun Ambassador Ambassador

11/25/16 3:55 PM

Quentin Bacon 31 WWW.NIAF.ORG Michelle Fabio

Fontana delle Ninfee at the Piazza Italia Acqui Terme By Michelle Fabio Hot, Hot, Hot — and Not Just the Thermal Springs

Perhaps no more aptly named city exists in all of Italy than Acqui Terme — a charming gem of a place nestled into the province of Alessandria in Piemonte. Its name pays homage to the ancient, natural, thermal springs (terme in Italian) that run beneath it and attract people from all over northwestern Italy and beyond for therapeutic spa treatments, often with a prescription from their doctor in hand. “Acqui,” of course, comes from the Michelle Fabio Latin for water. WWW.NIAF.ORG A hot spring fountain “La Bollente” in the Piazza della Bollente

32 Ambassador

37505_Magazine.indd 32 11/25/16 3:55 PM Michelle Fabio 37505_Magazine.indd 33 ater, workshop, afountain,anartisan you canstillseeancientbaths, athe- Terme remains from Romantimes, years orso. of millionseuros, overthepast30 city, includingtheinvestmentoftens before therevitalization ofthe ruins century, however, andwere innear ally underMussoliniinthemid-20th bothfinanciallyandstructur- suffered popular spadestination.Thespas facilitiesintoa itsthermal turned family tookcontrol ofthecityand Inthe 17thcentury, theSavoy ferrat. annexed bytheMarchese ofMon- an independentcomuneonlytobe oftheKingdomLombardia. as part it camebacktolifeinthe4thcentury Empire, thecitywasabandoned.But by hills.AfterthefallofRoman to itsprotected positionsurrounded and strategicbattlelocationthanks tradecenter became animportant quae Statiellae.Thesettlementsoon steaming waters,andnameditAc- Statielli, builtanewcityaround the conquered thelandsofLiguri ofAcquiTerme History in Italy. one ofthehottest,must-visitlocations humble AcquiTerme hasbecome who findtheirwayhere. Nowonder locals wholovetheintrepid travelers feel ofasmalltown,thankstofriendly creative types—allwhilekeeping andother attracted countlessartists of avibrant,eventrendy, citythathas manages tobalancethiswiththevibe isthatit culture. Butwhatsetsitapart and Terme issteepedinhistory flavors. andsoul-warming with itsrich,rustic cuisine isamongthefinestinItaly, accompany thewine,piemontese a UNESCOWorld HeritageSite.To oenological regions intheworldand country, oneofthemostimportant —Piemonte’s wine gorgeous ferrat withitslocationintheMont- starting to appreciate aboutAcquiTerme, extraordinary, there issomuchmore Roman times.Andwhiletheyare Although notmuchinAcqui In the12th Over 2,000yearsago,theRomans inItaly,Like everywhere Acqui The town’s spasdatebackto century, itbecame the city center, oftheold and part inandaround the and otherruins the centeroftown.InPiazza della which sitsinthemainsquare in — features inthecityisLaBollente, WatersMore AbouttheThermal Ottolenghi. Villa panoramic viewofthecityouttoward botanical garden with anunmatched, the castleisalso“ilBirdgarden,” a and thelate-medievalperiods.Inside facts from theIron Age,theRoman, Morelli,Castle onVia displaysarti- Paleologi housed inthe11th-century duct around theconfinesofcity. and patronsofthearts, between artists,architects Italy ofaclosepartnership as theonlyexamplein is Villa Ottolenghi,lauded properties inCastelliAperti One oftheAcquiTerme be inaccessible. ums thatotherwisemight forts, churchesandmuse- to castles,villas,palazzi, aim istointroducevisitors from MaytoOctober. Its Asti andCuneothatruns provinces ofAlessandria, between Piemonteandthe Castles) isacollaboration Castelli Aperti(Open andVillaOttolenghi Castelli Aperti One ofthecoolest—yethottest The archeological museum, include sprawlinggardens, detail, andthegrounds with attentiontoevery privately, wasconstructed The villa,nowowned be inspiredandcreate. other artiststothevilla painters, sculptorsand the objectiveofbringing Wedekind zuHorst,with and hiswifeHertavon by CountArturoOttolenghi The projectbeganin1920, work andincrediblebeauty. over withimpressiveart- grounds thatarespilling a villaandsurrounding which hasculminatedin aque- sulfuric, steamingwaterissaid to more. hydromassages, soundtherapyand pass, formudtherapy, massages, stop inforafewhours,orgetday Donati.You onViale Sorgenti can Terme inPiazza ItaliaorLagodelle to headtheGrandeHotelNuove bathsyou’llwant ments withthermal taste ofthewaters,forfullspatreat- wash andevenasip. still visitLaBollente source inthelate1800sandresidents A pavilionwasbuiltaround thewater andnever drop below165°F.surface waterscometothe Bollente, thermal Why AcquiTerme’s spas?The asmall While LaBollenteoffers

http://villaottolenghi.it/. www.castelliaperti.it and For moreinformation,visit you’re intheneighborhood! every turn,sostopinif something spectacularat Villa Ottolenghioffers nesto andMarioFerrari. is theworkofMastersEr- bronze, nickelandcopper, of whichisengravedin ple ofHerta,”theportal mausoleum, “TheTem- and agrandcistern.Its in theoldartists’studios, winery, awine-tastingroom a pool,wisteriaarbor, a dailyforaquick — Michelle Ambassador Fabio 11/25/16 4:07 PM 33 WWW.NIAF.ORG local beef served either sliced thinly Diana and Micha Baur or ground and mixed with olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper). The See, Feel and Taste Nickolas Schot region’s signature pasta is famously eggy and includes the long, thin and ribbon-like tajarin as well as agnolotti the Best of Italy del plin, a kind of tiny ravioli. Truffles and mushrooms are also darlings of with the number one name in custom piemontese menus. tours to Italy - UNITOURS. An absolute must when you’re in the region is bagna càuda, a mouthwa- tering blend of garlic, anchovies, olive oil and butter served like fondue for vegetable-dipping. Bagna càuda is Babarolo Loves Piemonte often served as part of the traditional piemontese Christmas Eve meal and In 2003, Italian American of a rustic, centuries-old online shop (www.babarolo. throughout the colder months. Diana Strinati Baur moved property and turn it into a com) for wine and gour- One of the most delicious local to Acqui Terme with her luxurious oasis for travelers met gifts from Piedmont specialties, though, is also one of the husband, Micha, and for nestled in the Montferrat. through which they offer simplest: the quintessential piemontese nine years they ran one of Baur’s novel, “True Vines,” the region’s famous wines street food, farinata. This salty focaccia the most successful, well- published by Gemelli Press and culinary delights. made with chickpea flour can be eaten loved B&Bs in Piemonte. in 2012, is an ode to her Babarolo products are plain, or sliced and filled with prosciut- beloved adopted region. Baur credits Acqui Terme’s available only for shipment to and cheese, or whatever you like. “gentle microclimate, its Although life has pulled the within Europe because of beautiful 2000-year-old Baurs in a different direc- customs regulations, but Hip Urban Culture ambience and the shy tion — to the Black Forest the Baurs are working on Also lining Acqui Terme’s cobble- yet accepting nature of in Germany — the couple spreading the word about stone streets are chic boutiques, mod- Immerse Your Group in the Beauty & Culture of Italy! its residents” as contrib- knew Acqui Terme would Piemonte’s rich gastronomy ern home design shops, and happen- uting greatly to how well never leave their hearts. and oenological heritage to ing cafes like Caffè dei Mercanti on Create a customized tour for your group of 10 or the couple was able to Their attachment led them the United States as well. Portici Saracco — full of fashionable complete the renovation to create Babarolo, an — Michelle Fabio locals and busy with wine tastings, more travelers to Italy’s premier locations! book presentations and “aperitivi mu- When your group of 10 or more is looking to design a truly unique experience, no one knows how sicale,” happy hours with live bands. A to immerse you in the culture of Italy like UNITOURS. Contact our experienced tour planning team increase blood circulation through and Asti Spumante. One of the best quick look at Acqui Terme’s web- at 800.777.7432 and they’ll walk you through every step of the process. We’ll help you create your own the absorption of various minerals, is Ristorante Enoteca La Curia, noted site shows there’s always something customized tour of Italy based on the locations and experiences you select! including calcium and sodium for its impressive aperitivo — appetiz- happening on the weekends through bicarbonate, which in turns helps er portions of food served with your temperate months. Your tour will include rst-rate accommodations near the sites you want to see, meals, luxury the body’s organs function more choice of wine by the glass. With around 20,000 residents, motorcoach travel, on-location guides and more. Plus, you’ll have efficiently. People also soak in Speaking of sustenance, Acqui Acqui Terme is a decent-sized city, a Unitours Representative with your group to make sure every need Acqui Terme’s waters for pain and Terme restaurants and trattorie offer but it seems smaller with a neighbor- is met and your satisfaction is assured. When you travel with Unitours, stress relief. decadent, traditional piemontese hood-like feel. Of course, it’s entirely you’re never on your own! dishes like brasato al Barolo (beef walkable as long as you remember If you planned your Italy tour right now what locations would you choose? Food and Wine braised in Barolo wine), vitello ton- cobblestones and heeled shoes don’t (Check your selections below.) Acqui Terme is part of the “Alto nato (cold, sliced veal topped with a get along. thick, tuna-based mayonnaise), bollito Monferrato” (High Montferrat) and So, whether you’re looking for ■ AMALFI ■ ASSISI ■ BELLAGIO ■ CAPRI ■ COMO ■ FLORENCE its vineyards produce the sweet, red misto (up to 14 types of meat boiled a relaxing visit to a thermal spa, full DOCG Brachetto d’Acqui as well as with vegetables and served with dif- immersion into the world of piemon- ■ MILAN ■ PISA ■ POMPEII ■ POSITANO ■ SORRENTO ■ SPOLETO ferent sauces), and carne cruda (raw, the dry, red DOC Dolcetto d’Acqui. tese food and wine, a stay in a hip but ■ RAVELLO ■ ROME ■ TAORMINA ■ VATICAN CITY ■ VENICE The rolling hills covered with grape- historical place, or all of the above, vines make for stunning scenery the answer is the small, charming, surrounding the city. old-but-modern Acqui Terme. Meanwhile, the streets of Acqui Michelle Fabio For more information, visit Call to speak with one of our Terme are full of bustling enoteche http://comune.acquiterme.al.it/. experienced planning professionals. Call 800.777.7432 — wine shops and bars — offering a We’re here to help you get the most WWW.NIAF.ORG out of the sights, experiences and to learn more about planning your tour fantastic selection of local varieties, Michelle Fabio is a freelance writer tastes and of Italy every step of Italy, or email: [email protected] including worldwide stars Barolo, based in southern Italy and the author of of the way! Barbaresco, Barbera, Moscato d’Asti “52 Things to See & Do in Calabria.”

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37505_Magazine.indd 34 11/25/16 4:07 PM See, Feel and Taste the Best of Italy with the number one name in custom tours to Italy - UNITOURS.

Immerse Your Group in the Beauty & Culture of Italy! Create a customized tour for your group of 10 or more travelers to Italy’s premier locations! When your group of 10 or more is looking to design a truly unique experience, no one knows how to immerse you in the culture of Italy like UNITOURS. Contact our experienced tour planning team at 800.777.7432 and they’ll walk you through every step of the process. We’ll help you create your own customized tour of Italy based on the locations and experiences you select! Your tour will include rst-rate accommodations near the sites you want to see, meals, luxury motorcoach travel, on-location guides and more. Plus, you’ll have a Unitours Representative with your group to make sure every need is met and your satisfaction is assured. When you travel with Unitours, you’re never on your own! If you planned your Italy tour right now what locations would you choose? (Check your selections below.)

■ AMALFI ■ ASSISI ■ BELLAGIO ■ CAPRI ■ COMO ■ FLORENCE ■ MILAN ■ PISA ■ POMPEII ■ POSITANO ■ SORRENTO ■ SPOLETO ■ RAVELLO ■ ROME ■ TAORMINA ■ VATICAN CITY ■ VENICE

Call to speak with one of our experienced planning professionals. We’re here to help you get the most Call 800.777.7432 out of the sights, experiences and to learn more about planning your tour tastes and of Italy every step of Italy, or email: [email protected] of the way!

37505_Magazine.indd 35 11/25/16 3:55 PM 37505_Magazine.indd 36 36 WWW.NIAF.ORG Ambassador Ambassador beliefs, theimpactofadayspent dead-on. Nomatteryourfaith or following hiscrucifixion. which thebodyofJesuswas wrapped believed bymanytobetheclothin this lengthypieceofancientlinen but hehasheldin display three times.Hard toimagine, sonally seentheShroud onpublic the Shroud fordecades.Hehasper- monato hasresearched andanalyzed ofShroud studies,Si- official journal basedinTorinoorganization thatpublishesSindon,the Centre ofSindonology, oftheInternational an secretary guidingourprivatetour.(Shroud expert) Thegeneral caution thatthiswouldbe“apersonalencounter.” of St.JohntheBaptist,EnricoSimonatowhispered aquiet stepped from thePiazzaSanGiovanniintoCathedral is kepthere inTorino, andhasbeenfor438years.Aswe mostmysteriousrelic entifically investigated,andcertainly By DonOldenburg F aith was Simonato’s forewarning We tohavealeading“sindonologist” were fortunate TORINO, Italy—Christianity’s mostsacred, mostsci- , F acts , F hands hismortal ascination John Shroud attheCathedral Left: AbannerbearingthevisageofMan Above: Theshroudhasbeenkeptatthe theBaptist

in Torino formorethanfourcenturies

and

the Museum oftheHolyShroud Enrico Simonatoatthe

H oly

Cathedral ofSaint

S hroud

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37505_Magazine.indd 37 at thebackofapse.It’s theonly giant, floor-to-ceiling tromp-l’oeil cathedral, Simonatopointed outa andinterest.” importance other sidechapelsalsohavehistoric chapel are especiallybeautiful,but andChrist Simonato. “Theorgan interesting andhistoricplace,”said on theShroud, thecathedralisavery the columnsare arching ceiling.Alongthewallsbehind awhite gray stonecolumnssupporting shape ofacross, thenaveisdefinedby inthe immediately striking.Arranged thedral’s Renaissance-styleinterioris change lives. it. Theexperiencehasbeenknownto travel from around theworldtoview indeed profoundly personal.Pilgrims vant, alldebateisbrieflysilenced. lief issuspended,controversy isirrele- disbe- deepemotionssurface, artifact, before thiswidelyrevered historic For others,inthatmomentstanding fascinating andachallengetoreason. least, For skeptics,itis,atthevery Torino, isnottobeunderestimated. “in thepresence” oftheShroud, in the HolyShroud,currentlyclosedforrestoration. tromp-l’oeil representingtheviewofChapel Cathedral ofSaintJohntheBaptistisalarge Behind theoldaltarofPresbytery As wewalkedtothefront ofthe “Regardless ofyour perspective Entering thefront doors,theCa- Encountering theShroud is 13smallchapels.

NIAF grantwillhelprestore Church oftheHolyShroud,partMuseum,thata Water-damaged Frescospaintedontheceilingof chest, behindglass,totheleftfrontofcathedral. Last displayedinpublic2015,theshroudiskeptthis Biblical descriptionsofthe crucifix- to whose bloodywoundscorrespond man and battered bodyofacrucified and backimpression ofabruised explained, three-dimensional, front tended, showingthescientificallyun- and 3-feet-7-incheswidewhenfullyex- woven fabric,justover14-feetlong benches meditating;otherspray. reverentlyVisitors stare. Somesiton image of“TheMantheShroud.” face, reproduced from theincredible wounded,crucified age ofatortured, im- wall. Hangingaboveitisalarge and protected byabullet-proof glass tainer, covered inared-and-gold pall, casket-like, climate-controlled con- side chapel.Itisencasedinaclosed, of theapseandmainaltarinlast the Shroud itselfislocatedtotheleft 2005, exceptwhenonpublicdisplay, restoration. 1990s, andhassincebeenclosedfor damageandafire inthe structural with aspiral-domedroof suffered Shroud. Therotunda-like chapel homeofthe to bethepermanent ing theCathedralinlate1600s Holy Shroud thatwasbuiltadjoin- “view”oftheChapel current This delicatepieceofancient On thisday, daysince andevery

All photosbyDonOldenburgexceptwherenoted. for thepublicexpositionsof1931and1933 copy oftheShroudencasedingoldenframeused above themainaltarandafullscalephotographic Holy Shroudpresbytery, aHolyTrinity frescotowers At theMuseumofHolyShroud,inChurch as animportant the Shroud, buthasacknowledgedit has neitherendorsednorrenounced cuted person.” andunjustlyperse- suffering of every time, directs [people]toward theface and bodyofJesusand,atthesame face draws [people]tothetormented Francis aswell,whosaid:“Theshroud ed some3millionvisitors,andPope 2015, whenovertwomonthsitattract- most recent timewaslastyear, in times sinceits1933showing.The And itdidn’t getoutforourvisit. ion ofJesus,doesn’t getoutmuch. had beenaround 100days.” like todoitforsixhours.Last year, it months. Thetechnicalpeople would Church wouldlike todoitforsix Simonato saidwithasmile, “The aboutpreservation, and hisconcerns As forlengthofeachpublicdisplay, Apparently 2025isonthecalendar. shown goingbacktwocenturies. each yearandoccasionithasbeen Simonato toldus,whilepinpointing the nextpublicdisplaywillhappen, the scientificcontroversy. able source offaith…withoutjudging Formally, theCatholicChurch It hasbeendisplayedonlysix No oneknowsforsure when relic andaremark- Ambassador 11/25/16 3:55 PM 37 WWW.NIAF.ORG 37505_Magazine.indd 38 38 WWW.NIAF.ORG asasmallcollec- 1998. Whatstarted Church oftheHoly Shroud, until tury, piedmontesebaroque-style location,the18th-cen- into itscurrent was created in1936,butdidn’t move to bemissed. story, however—and not a different descript thatit’s easytomiss.Insideis ner, themuseum’s exterior issonon- ban- della Sidoneplaqueandvertical to theMuseumofHolyShroud. like Paris’LatinQuarter, onourway blestoned, historicdistrict,somuch and tinyshopsthrough Torino’s cob- fes, quaintrestaurants, espresso stops, 10-minute stroll pastlivelysidewalkca- fora IVMarzo Via up thenarrow crossed XXSettembre Via andhead brought theShroud toTorino. We Palace oftheHouseSavoythatfirst dominated bythehistoricRoyal Reale andthenPiazzaCastello,both side door, we walkedintothePiazetta Ambassador Luigi E.Mattei’s Man, castfrom3DimagesvoftheShroudTurin The MuseumoftheHolyShroud Except foramodestbrassMuseo Leaving theCathedralthrough a sculptureofthebodyHolyShroud

a expositions of1931and1933.With wooden frameusedfortheShroud gold-plated, immediately tothelarge, the HolyShroud where weare drawn oftheChurch of in thepresbytery and belief. intellect andreason coexistwithfaith andspiritual.Here, scientific, artistic andknowledge—historical, artifacts ofShroud-related plete repository now grown intotheworld’s mostcom- objects gathered overcenturieshas tion ofShroud-related andreligious a $30,000granttoward therestoration museum, theFoundationhas awarded June, whenboard memberstoured the age. SinceNIAF’s MissiontoItalyin waterdam- frescos —somesuffering the church’s ceiling,are additional Shroud takenin2002. cial, life-sizephotographiccopyofthe scene, theframenowholdsoffi- Holy Trinity, andShroud resurrection backdrop ofaclassicfresco ofa Our tourofthemuseumbegins Adjacent tothemainfresco, along the Shroud”bySalvatoreVitale related artpieces,“Rescueof One ofthemuseum’s Shroud-

Photo byFabrizioPece Inside theMuseumofHolyShroud(left) An exhibitoffacerepresentationsJesus forensic, medicalandlegalinvesti- traces ofsoilfoundinthefabric, to historic weaveofthelinen, tomicro of substancesandtexture, tothe from studies Everything 20th century. ic research from thebeginningof Shroud research. modern all mensional imagethattouchedoff photo platerevealed thethree-di- pher SecondoPia,whosenegative taken in1898byamateurphotogra- first-ever photographoftheShroud Shroud, includingtheboxcameraand reproductions ofthe well asmodern tained theShroud. and-hard-stone reliquary silver- Shroud, isthe16thcentury ofthe stagesofthehistory portant room dedicatedtothemostim- themuseum’s main church’s crypt, four distinctrooms. Showninthe display throughout themuseum’s of themuseum’s paintings. crucifixion nails Replicas ofthe The museumdocumentsscientif- as Another room displaysoldart are on Other Shroud artifacts VP-8 imageanalyzer. relief dataobtainedbya on thethreedimensional Project scientistsbased Shroud ofTurin Research created byAmerican the ManinHolyShroud Close-up ofthemodel

thatcon-

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37505_Magazine_X.indd 39 160906 NIAF Amb28.2B.indd39 year.”about 10percentShroud attheCathedral,itisanamaz- every For director.them, coupledwiththeviewingof are “Visitors increasing by Zaccone, themuseum’sin thelastthree years.Formanyof scientific museum thisyear,the worldhavevisitedmuseum saidGianMaria MoreMore than30,000peoplevisitedthe than50,000peoplefrom allover backlitimagesoftheShroud. backlitimagesoftheShroud. large, large, media movieandadramaticseriesof media movieandadramaticseriesof roomroom showingamultilingualmulti- showingamultilingualmulti- visitors’ toursbegin—atahigh-tech but itisimpressive. Shroud. Yes, it’s notthereal thing, because youcan’t oftenseethetrue of theShroud —created precisely hours toview, isanexactduplicate um’s extensiveexhibits,thatcantake 3-D imagesoftheShroud ofTurin. of theHolyShroud man,castfrom created byLuigiE.Matteiofthebody is theremarkable life-sizesculpture viding asoberingemotionalimpact Pro- nails usedintheCrucifixion. andofthe cas ofthecrown ofthorns and nowhere else. iconographic analysis,itisallhere… Roman coinsfoundinthecloth,to gations, tofingerprintsandtracesof Our tourends But thehighlightofmuse- There are evenhypotheticalrepli- where many where many

less 2,000yearsago.”Hesaysrecent- or Israelwenowcallit,andmore or Yeshua benYosef, inPalestine, born the burialclothof“aguynamed to theprobability thatitwasinfact tain abouttheShroud —allpointing listofwhatisknownforcer- laundry cloth ofJesus.Hegoesthrough a proof thattheShroud istheburial have demandedforyearspositive theirpoints. tosupport ry Both sidesdrawonscienceandhisto- of Jesus,mostlikelybyagiftedforger. more than1,000yearsafterthetime a fraudulentmedievalrelic made the Shroud.” its origin.Eachhasquestionsand Christ, regardless oftheproblem of tion oftheGospelsPassion that imageinrelation tothedescrip- [with] themessagethatcomesfrom rial anditsauthenticity;thesecond mainly [withthe]aspectofthemate- not toconfusethetwo.Thefirstdeals “However, careful onemustbevery tionship betweenscienceandfaith. applicationoftherela- important theirpoints. tosupport ry Both sidesdrawonscienceandhisto- of Jesus,mostlikelybyagiftedforger. more than1,000yearsafterthetime a fraudulentmedievalrelic made image as image itself typicallyreferto thecrucified tothecrucified tour guidesandtheCatholicChurchCatholic Church itselftypicallyrefer Though at thetimeofhisresurrection. tion. Thoughtourguidesandthe image wasmiraculouslyimprintedonit ed onitatthetimeofhisresurrec- cloth ofJesusChrist,thefaceandbody body imagewasmiraculouslyimprint- contend thattheShroudcloth ofJesusChrist,thefaceand istheburial troversy.contend thattheShroud istheburial Simplyexplained,believers troversy. Simplyexplained,believers moving museumexperience. most ofthem,thisisanamazingand ing andmovingmuseumexperience. ly hehaschangedhisanswerwhen Simonato tellsusthatskeptics Skeptics contendtheShroud is Zaccone callstheShroud an Skeptics contendtheShroud is Finally, aword aboutthecon- Finally, aword aboutthecon- “TheManoftheShroud.” as“TheManof

comes backtolife. beneath theShroudcapturesmomentChrist Zakopane, thatthroughtheluminousbody’s outline contemporary PolishartistBartsozKeskadi comes backtolife. The evocativework“Resurrection”bythe beneath theShroudcapturesmomentChrist Zakopane, thatthroughtheluminousbody’s outline contemporary PolishartistBartsozKeskadi The evocativework“Resurrection”bythe expectations.… Manythings personal encounter.” to Torino forapersonalencounter. Cathedral andtheMuseum,itis“a eyes ofthebeholderwhomakesatrip it, foreachwhovisitstheShroud debate isconclusive—exceptinthe seek.” Or, as EnricoSimonatoput us thattheyallfindtheanswers ‘Prove itisn’t.’ ” visitors leaveintheguestbooktell skeptics askhim:“Inowsaysimply, remain open.…Thecommentsthat been discovered, butmanyquestions Neither issideoftheShroud Ambassador Ambassador have

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39 WWW.NIAF.ORG © Mauro Davoli WWW.NIAF.ORG The world’s largest labyrinth in Fontanellato

40 Ambassador

37505_Magazine.indd 40 11/25/16 3:55 PM © Mauro Davoli

Soragna’s medieval fortress dominates the small lowlands village. Hidden www.castellidelducato.it Parma Off the By Francesca Cuoghi Tourist Path in EmiliaLowlands Italy hides so many undiscovered neighborhoods far from The small rural gems in the Prov- ince of Parma, in the northeastern tourist routes. Emilia is a prime example. In this region surrounded zone brushed by the great Po River, by Lombardia, Veneto and Tuscany, places exist that are so surreal are celebrated for their culinary de- lights produced here for centuries and and beautiful, you think they’re from a children’s fairytale. today exported worldwide. This limited but rich itinerary travels the road from Parma to the Bassa Parmense. It is filled with historic residences and medieval fortresses, a trip dedicated to a strip of Emilia that’s the cradle of Italian cuisine and wine culture, and of symphonic music — the homeland of Verdi and Good Food that inspired creative greats such as Bernarn- do Bertolucci and Giovannino Guares- chi with its mysterious foggy landscape. While Parma has always had a cultural importance, it’s also a place of important crafting, manufacturing and farming that has made it famous all over the world. Its roads run through tiny villages renowned for the production of the Spalla cotta, Forta- na wine, and the Parmigiano cheese. In the countryside, you experience a captivating, authentic, small-town feeling wherever you go. Our tour starts in Fontanellato and follows the Via Emilia. The beauty of this small town is characterized by the Fortress, which dates back to the Middle Ages, to 1124, when the first defensive tower was built by the Pal- lavicino, an Italian noble family whose

fiefdom was later granted from the WWW.NIAF.ORG Busseto, in the province of Parma in Emilia-Romagna 12th-century Holy Roman Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. APT Servizi Emilia Romagna

41 Ambassador

37505_Magazine.indd 41 11/25/16 3:55 PM 37505_Magazine.indd 42 42 WWW.NIAF.ORG Ambassador Busseto streetscene Fontanellato's labyrinth The AnticaCortePallavicina; From thetop: APT ServiziEmiliaRomagna www.castellidelducato.it © MauroDavoli ect: proj- to creating abrilliantvisionary collector, hasdevotedthepastdecade known publisherandpassionateart await. FrancoMariaRicci,awell- of historicalmapsandlithographs. ground floorcreate anexpositionarea Since 1999,11newrooms onthe wingisoriginal. tico onthenortheast por-still existsandtheunderground staircase leadingtotheuppergallery vaulted restored, the15th-century toaresidence. Now structure military century, andlaterevolvedfrom a wascompletedinthe16th structure ofMilan.Thewhole the Viscontis leaders) whoacquired thecastlefrom (military the Sanvitales,condottiero after1386by squared turret north stop afterwithits willastonishyou the BassaParmense, lake, agreenhouse, andacaféhaus. a romantic English-stylepark,with a by decorations anditissurrounded stillhasfrescoed ous age.Thefortress andwitnessaprevi- baroque furniture live there. Itsrooms are enrichedby Herprogenycentury. stillownitand of PrincesMeliLupiduring17th later becamethesplendidresidence val feudalerain1385,thefortress dominates thecenterofvillage. which imposing MeliLupiFortress, discover thehiddensecrets ofthe the room. Localsinviteustochatand of thecreamy blackItalianbrew fills cafés where the an espresso inoneofits1970s-style lanes oftheoldtown,stoppingfor It’s ajoytowanderthrough thelittle local history, flavorsandhospitality. is asmalllowlandsvillagerichin stop. Soragna,17milesfrom Parma, with usheadingtowards thenext mind wander. where youcangetlostandletyour almost 1,000feetlong—agreat walk to nearly50feet.Themaze’s pathis heights rangingfrom afewinches bamboo plants,about200,000,their than 17acres. Itconsistsentirely of which openedin2015,coversmore The star-shaped, masterpiecemaze, labyrinthinthe world. thelargest In Fontanellato,othertreasures The wallswere erected from the This enchantingpatchofEmilia, Built amidSoragna’s medie- The magicofthelabyrinthstays inebriatingaroma culturalriches

or forworse,thestrongest tiesto Polesine istheonethathas,forbetter all ofthetownsinBassaParmense, Of little townofPolesineParmense. musician. into amuseumdedicatedtothegreat Pallavicinoisnowconverted and Villa Rigoletto andUnBalloinMaschera theatre whichopenedin1868with Giuseppe Verdi The iseverywhere. the stronghold. and theRocca,builtin1250,isclearly collegiate church ofSt.Bartolomeo PalazzodelComune,the 15th-century Piazza Verdi, anddominatedbythe town center, Romaand marked byVia gentle wayoflife.Asyouenterthe of Verdi, oftheLand ing fractionsistheheart poser whogrew upthere. triumphs oftheworld-renowned com- rooms contrastwiththe unfurnished Yet, and thesightofunadorned family ofsmallliteratelandowners. to recent studies,theVerdis were a mother wasaspinner. According store, whilehis an attachedgrocery village. Verdi’s fatherranan innand ing, locatedatacrossroads inthe “Native House”isamodestbuild- the feelingofjoyisoverwhelming. the great GiuseppeVerdi wasborn, atRoncolediBusseto,where arrive the historictowncenters.Whenyou workshops from timesgonebyfill hospitality.and warm Little shopsand connected totheriverbank. expanded, andeventually the current, little islandinthePo,itwasdraggedby past thevillagestoodonapolesine, rived from thefactthatindistant Po River. withitsname,de- Starting occupiedby becameabarracks, court and winewere aged.After1780, this where culatelli(cured meats),cheeses and itboastedspectacularcellars onanearlier fortification, century wasbuiltintheearly15th The Corte that havelivedhere forcenturies. andtradition history long, important just anelegantrestaurant, ithidesa hinterland.More thana the Parma traditionsofEmiliaand culinary Pallavicina, youcanexperiencethe along,youcometothe Further And, here, thepresence of Busseto anditssmallneighbor- Stopping attheAnticaCorte distinguishedbyasimple,

the

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The the rant Reggiano again former Pallavicina the over, craftsmen. for the the “dragons” Parma it through taking where Bassa culture own celebrates flood remarkable reached peasants, best Spigaroli Corte banks elegant (awarded After In quality flooding Parmense land. filled you magic these and splendor. and fromdiscount a10% members NIAF of history a and became of involved an in all can Bassa Eventually, has meticulous an (since Chef with view produce poetry guest our lands, Po fishermen, just family, of amazing it, fine hour a discover been For moreinformation,visit www.myitalianfamily.com, orcall1-888-472-0171 services a River. 2007!) and hinterland Michelin of Parmense trashing culatelli 20 The Massimo little rooms small wines. food are in the benefit from minutes the returned culture and smuggling cellars From the strip restoration tradition. on cuisine Po the dwellings , Antica becomes carters Parmigiano provide meats. Bologna. The it. star) Spigaroli river and cuisine. breath- is of 1850, — from are a to restau- Emilia with the serves Corte all place took and once its from The a art, of by his Bring that visiontolifewithrealhistory. Do YouEverImagineYour it

Antica Corte Pallavicina Relais blog created in and ist, Francesca she about foreign communication was www.CiaoEmilia.com storyteller Emilia, the born languages. Cuoghi storytelling • • Discover Obtain through with and the with region raised. is us a specialist a degree She journal- travel your to where our centuries has manage Italian research in prized Zibello 15th Italy, of back Culatello the the of century. Dual salumi dating is to most information one services the application di Ancestors? Italian Citizenship onsite about process. by in working Italy your roots Ambassador Antica Interior Corte of the APT Servizi Emilia Romagna 43 WWW.NIAF.ORG Dickie

By Dick Rosano

VHow a High School Basketball Coach Became a National Sports Icon WWW.NIAF.ORG ESPN men’s college basketball analyst Dick Vitale in 2010 in Sarasota, Fla. Johnson

44 Ambassador Steve call him“DickieV”likethe rest oftheadoringworld in theNationalBasketballAssociation didn’t goaswell. ing arecord of78-30attheUniversityDetroit, hisstint ing theDetroit Pistonsfortwoseasons. Butaftercompil- chance atcollegecoaching,whichledtothepros, coach- HighSchool ledpredictably toa and EastRutherford simply retired in1979whenhiscoachingcareer ended. successthatitistodayifhehad the hugeentertainment exaggeration tosaythatcollegebasketballwouldnotbe Forthosewhodon’t,necessary. itmaynotbe toogreat an games oftheseason. vision, broadcasting themostcriticalcollegebasketball giant personality, theonewhoisrightnowonyourtele- withthis and fanfavorite.Ihadrequested aninterview through thetelephone,“notmanufactured forTV.” at theKFCYum!CenterinLouisville,K.Y. in2015 Crowd surfingbeforeaNorthCarolina-DukegameatCameronIndoorStadiuminDurham,N.C.,March3,2012;DuringLouisvilleUn From left:ESPN’s DickVitaleduringthepre-gamebroadcastof2013NCAAMen’s DivisionIBasketballFinalFourChampionshipgameintheGeorgiaDomeAtlanta; T Vitale — let’s dispense with journalistic styleandjust —let’sVitale dispensewithjournalistic stintsatNewJersey’s GarfieldHighSchool Laudatory nointroductionFor thosewhoknowDickVitale, is HallofFameannouncer The callerwasDickVitale, “That’s beenmeforever,” hesaid,thesmilecoming other endoftheline,andonethatcanhardly bemistaken fanofcollegebasketball. byanytrue explosion,onethatconveyedthelaughterfromearpiece. Itwasaheartfelt thepersonat hadhardlyhe interview begun,when“That’sawesome,baby!”rang outfrom thetelephone

Peter Lockley/NCAA Photos ESPN Thomas LaGrega/ memorable witticismscoming from theedgeofit. matched byinsightfulcommentary, rounds ofhumor, and wouldbe that theathleticsuperiority onthecourt He becamealarger-than-life commentator whoensured caster andcrowned DickieVthe sport’s grandest celebrity. basketball soonfellinlovewiththecoach-turned-sports- nutswhowere fanaticalaboutcollege caught on.Sports while,DickieV’s short ebullientstyleofreporting a very position untilanothercoachingjobcameup. aged himtotakethejobandjusthavefunwithit,afill-in know nothingaboutTV.” encour- Buthiswife,Lorraine, Pistons’ coachtobroadcast gamesfrom thebooth. former andquicklyhired theeffervescent an opportunity coaching changeandDickieVwasoutofajob.ESPNsaw college gameontelevisiongotitsbiggestgiftinacentury. pressive record thanhewasusedto.Thatwhenthe withthePistonsandpostedalessim- does —struggled Joe Faraoni / ESPN Images Initially hewasreluctant, butthatquicklyreversed. In “Absolutely noway,” wasDickieV’s initialresponse. “I Pistons’ ownerBillDavidsondecidedtomakea iversity Cardinalsbasketballgame Ambassador 45 WWW.NIAF.ORG 46 WWW.NIAF.ORG played it.Ilovedthegameofbasket- levels,” hetoldme,“youhaveto ahead infootballatthecollegeorpro who helditintheirhands.“To get the ball,heknewhowtocoachothers you wanttobe.’” ‘Even withoneeye,youcanbewhat orjumpplayalick.” run ian from backinJerseywhocouldn’t saying hewasa“bald,one-eyed,Ital- quotedhimas although onearticle an “averagehighschoolplayer”— my fatherhadninesiblings.” says. “Mymotherhadninesiblings, came from abluecollarfamily,” he American familyinPassaic,N.J. in1939intoanItalian was born means aplayerthat’s inconsistent to aprime-timeplayer. “AllMystique” phrase foryoungstars.“PTPer” refers from watchingthegames.” I carried “locker-room kiddingaround, things him. “Talking toathletes,”hereplied, belongs to. knowswhoit take thatstep.Everyone trademarked, buthedoesn’t haveto phrases. “That’s awesome,baby!”isn’t ie Vbecameknownforhissignature Yogi Dick- American insports, Berra, the collegegame’s favoriteannouncer. missal, butitalsoledtotheinitiationof at thepro levelmayhaveledtohisdis betold,hismodestsuccess And, truth college is proof enough of that wager. for metoclimbtheladder.” ball andsawthatitwasthebestsport Ambassador Dick VitaleduringaregularseasonLouisianaStateUniversitygameatthePeteMaravichAssemblyCenterinBatonRouge,La Despite hislackofprowess with “But mymotheralwaystoldme, By hisownadmission,hewas “I wasjustkidchasingadream, So whoishe?Richard JohnVitale “Diaper Dandy”ishisfavorite Where didyougetthese,Iasked And justlikeanotherItalian His record inhighschooland - outburst, “That’s awesome,Baby!” so eagerlyawaitedthanhissignature phrases from DickieV, butnoneare nent andcleantheglass. one thatcanout-rebound theoppo- Team”a bigman,and“AllWindex is you aliveondefense,“SpaceEater”is “Mr. PacMan”isaplayerwhowilleat “dishing therock” meanspassingit. in hisplay. The“rock” istheball,so man we know on the sportscast isto man weknowonthesportscast you.’” to people,andpeoplewillbe goodto ‘Richie,’ myDadusedtosay, ‘begood love atthefamilydinnertable: ofcanceronyoungpeople. effects responsibility tostoptheravaging the sidelineorcallingoutsociety’s does, whethercallingplaysfrom he pours passionintoeverything this medicalchallenge. among thosecommittedtosolving aloyalfollowing attention hasearned todraw dollarsand V’s tireless efforts dollars tocancerresearch, andDickie Galadrawsmillionsof al DickVitale fighting childhoodcancer. Theannu- dedicated himselfformanyyearsto sucks,” hesaid.“Quotemeonthat.” time for that luxury. “Cancer, flat out, and reflection, but Dickie V didn’t have asked. A serious subject deserves pause watching thekidsplaywithenthusiasm. he quicklyaddedhowmuchloved state championships,”camefirst,but back-to-back school level.“Winning was quicktorecall thetimesathigh fondest memories of coaching and he I asked him what were among his I askedhimwhatwere amonghis There are manymore memorable The bestwaywecanhonor the more aboutlifeand “I learned Richard John“Dickie V”Vitale True tothatpassion,DickieVhas And whatabouttherest oflife,I and othernationalmagazines.Heisthe The Washington Enthusiast, Post,Wine inAmbassadormagazine,aswell here writer whosecolumnshaveappeared Dick Rosanoisawine,foodandtravel that cause. to the payIreceive from thisarticle I,forone,willdonate your services. com/v-foundation.html andoffer http://www.dickvitaleonline.Visit enlist inhismissiontocure cancer. Italian-Americans onwine. Heritage”ontheinfluenceof book “Wine “Hunting Truffles,” aswellahistory Italian Treasures,” “Tuscan Blood” and ofAltamura:NaziCrimes, “The Secret mysteriessetinItaly: author ofthethree

V Foundation, www.jimmyv.org. visit: To tothe connectandcontribute heart, cannottouch andit my soul.” touch my mind, cannot touch it my myall physical abilities. Itcannot ovation: “Cancer cantake away His closing words drew astanding V Foundation for Cancer Research. death, “Jimmy V” announced the ESPY awards before shortly his speechIn anemotional the at died in1993. and later years several cancer was metastatic diagnosedwith in1983,championship but he collegethe national basketball Carolina teamwonNorth State anearlyage.of cancerat His and fellow Italian American, died another basketball coach Jim Valvano, ., in2016

Phil Ellsworth / ESPN Images

37505_Magazine.indd 48 48 WWW.NIAF.ORG T The Ambassador Orietta GianjorioTastesFoodforaLiving asting on ViadeiCoronari inRome Orietta GianjorioatCasaEBottega

Sandro Frinolli Puzzilli Davis, forresearch. She at University ofCalifornia chiefly amongthemthe academic organizations, quality. Shealsoworks with products toguarantee look, smellandtastetheir hired bycompaniesto evaluation, Gianjoriois insensory and anexpert olive-oil andhoneytaster, sommelier, acertified Orietta Gianjorio. that: professional taster woman whodoesexactly job toyou,thenmeeta living soundsliketheideal A third-level advanced If tastingfoodfora ping forthebestingredi- all-Italian valuesof“shop- prised todiscoverthather Rome in2008,shewassur- America from hernative edge toconsumers. work: bringingherknowl- rio mostexcitedabouther bution thatmakesGianjo- ty standards. apply more stringentquali- lawmakersto led California was not,whicheventually oil labeledasextravirgin olive percent ofimported findingthat69 Davis report contributed tothe2010UC

When shemovedto It’s this Karen Stepps typeofcontri- By SilviaDonati Life wine-pairing events. the winery’s food-and- and selectswinesfor the headsommelier Calif., wheresheis Winery inPlacerville, wine attheMiraflores “tastevin” totaste traditional winemaker’s Orietta Gianjorioa 11/25/16 3:55 PM By SilviaDonati 37505_Magazine.indd 49 Davis, andthenhoneyfor project byMarsandUC taste chocolateforajoint years ago,shebeganto Three Olive OilExperts. National ItalianBoard of taster, amemberofthe olive-oil become acertified traveled toPugliainItaly an apprentice. Later, she Thus, hertastinglifebegan. the panelandpassedit. of took thetesttobepart evaluation,she in sensory out in2010.Already trained to dothestudythatcame a panelofolive-oilexperts which wasputtingtogether Olive CenteratUCDavis, cover theopeningof move, shewasassignedto afterher Shortly ent turn. until thingstookadiffer- working inthatindustry and sheintendedtokeep was trainedinjournalism for personalinterest. She just obtained certification States, althoughshehad she movedtotheUnited sommelierwhen certified makes adifference.” reality isthatthewayweeat going tolivelonger, butthe injecting vitamins,they’re Americans thinkthat,by longevity ofthepopulation. ble hasaninfluenceonthe conviviality around theta- are studiesthatshow else,” sherecalls. “Butthere did whiledoingsomething eating wassomethingthey knife andfork. the table,andsitdownwith the lunchroom, prepare being theonlyonetogo American husband,and her moved aftermarrying in Sacramento,where she ataTVstation interning lacking. Sheremembers to enjoyfood”were mostly the table,andslowingdown ents, convivialityaround She wasfirsthired as Gianjorio wasalready a “For myco-workers, and fun.” love, curiosity, appreciation food likeatasterdoes:with ingredients andtolookat people toshopforquality She hopesto“inspire adults andchildren. consumer educationfor ings, cookingclasses,and tast- gourmet that offers Orietta LLC,acompany about, Gianjoriofounded what sheismostpassionate reaching consumersis does, shesays.Because totastelikeataster learn taster. as anadvanced-levelhoney the UnitedStatescertified one ofonlytwopeoplein on herwaytobecoming explains Gianjorio,whois and tasteanyproduct,” tion, it’s easytolook,smell evalua- asensory learned because onceapersonhas to chocolateandhoney go from wineandoliveoil nation Center. UC Davis’HoneyandPolli- that thequalityofaprod- shehaslearned experts, by talkingtoscientistsand and academic organizations awareness.” is tositdownandeatwith one aftercooking,which high-quality products, and is beingabletoselect before cooking,which job thatneedstobedone ers understandthere’s a thatconsum- important whole thing,”shesays.“It’s health benefits. ingredients thathaveno how todetectlow-quality looking forquality, and ingr also teacheshowtoselect make specificdishes,she teaches notonlyhowto cooking classes,Gianjorio edients, howtotaste In fact,anybodycan “It waseasyformeto Through herworkwith “Cooking isnotthe During hertastingsand

the 4milliongallonsof many as600samplesfrom panel memberstastedas season, sheandherfellow Thispast as “extravirgin.” tobecertified California, 400 olive-oilproducers in representing mostofabout the non-profit organization Olive OilCouncil(COOC), submitted totheCalifornia when shetastesoliveoils That’s vember toFebruary. tification season,from No- most, especiallyduringcer- that Gianjoriotastesthe benefits thatyouneed.” olive oilwillhavethehealth high-quality extra-virgin a spoonofliquidfat.Only healthy foryouifingest is fat,soit’s notgoingtobe quality. Inreality, oliveoil there’s nomentionofthe but oil adayfortheirheart, should useaspoonofolive states thatconsumers Association onitswebsite “Even theAmericanHeart to consumers,”shesays. but wedon’t teachthat high-quality oliveoil, the samebenefitsasa oil isnotgoingtohave oil. olive in point:extravirgin healthy foryouornot.Case whether thatproduct is in uct makesadifference Olive oilistheproduct “A low-qualityolive she cleansesherpalate quality inoliveoil.Finally, general indicatorsofgood and pungencyare terness back ofherthroat: bothbit- to detectpungencyinthe mas”). Shethenswallows (called “retro-nasal aro- pick uptasteandflavors mouth whichallowsherto pulling oxygenintoher little quantityofoliveoil, She tastesbydrinkinga the aromas thatshesmells. for defects,thendescribes first smellstheoillooking lip-shaped tastingglass,she of oliveoil,usingablue,tu- on acomputer. Inthecase samples andrecords data where shetastesdifferent perature controlled room little boothinsideatem- rio’s “office”isgenerallya sional tastingwork?Gianjo- it’s abigresponsibility.” fortheyear.the harvest So ruining label, certification cannot gettheextra-virgin has defects,theproducer rio says.“Ifyousayanoil to detectdefects,”Gianjo- you’re calledtobeable “As atasterinoliveoil, completely free ofdefects. standards, andbe sensory meet bothchemicaland anoliveoilmust virgin, olive oilproduced! So howdoesprofes- To asextra becertified Chocolate Taste Panel of CaliforniaatDavis of theMars-University chocolate asamember Orietta Gianjoriotasting Ambassador

11/25/16 3:55 PM 49 WWW.NIAF.ORG Passionate about educating consumers, Orietta Gianjorio hosts an olive-oil tasting A tasting and book reading with children in Tuscany at the Italian Cultural Center in San Diego

with green apple, water and, the sample around the says. “Honey is very difficult being able to detect quality, when the olive oil is very glass to open the different to spit because it melts so easy which determines whether bitter, with some yogurt. aromas and she smells. and so fast. So, by the end of something is healthful for In sampling chocolate With both chocolate and the day, I get a sugar rush!” you or not.” and honey, she first looks at honey, she lets the sample As consumers, we the color and physical state melt before chewing. “In should all learn to taste like a Silvia Donati is a freelance of the samples as indicators the meantime, I connect taster does, she says, explain- journalist and a contributing of quality. Then, for choco- with my brain and I exhale ing that means mostly being editor at ITALY Magazine. A late, she snaps a piece and to stimulate my retro-nasal in the moment and con- native of Bologna, she divides Mike’s Deli listens to the sound for “a receptors,” Gianjorio says. necting with our brain and her time between Italy and clear snap” indicating a low Because by the end of senses. “By learning to taste, California, which she considers percentage of fat. Low fat a tasting day the amount of you can learn two things you her second home. Silvia special- content means high cocoa food can be a lot, profes- can take into your daily life. izes in everything Italy-related content, which is healthier. sional tasters generally spit. One is single tasking and and has a passion for Italian For honey, she spreads “Unless it’s honey,” Gianjorio being aware, and the other is American topics.” Orietta Gianjorio's Shopping Tips ViVi Bene Box Olive Oil Chocolate Honey NIAF Special • Look at the bottle. To • Look at the label: cocoa • Try to buy a chunky or pasty including preserve quality, olive oil should be the first ingre- honey. When honey is nice $150 ground shipping bottles must be made of dient, and cocoa percent- and clear, there is a strong dark glass. age should be at least 60 possibility that it has been Coupon Code: NIAF • Pay attention to seals. percent. adulterated. Because stud- Tasting panels guarantee • Look at the packaging: ies have shown that con- quality with their seals. Just chocolate should be in a sumers prefer honeys that be aware that seals will not dark, well-sealed wrap- are golden in color, trans- help if the olive oil bottle per. The more chocolate parent and not crystallized, was not stored in the is protected from light and producers will try to prevent appropriate conditions or for moisture, the longer its shelf honey’s natural crystalliza- longer than the suggested life will be. tion process by using centri- 2016 Greatest Streets of America Orietta Gianjorio is the author of amount of time. • When you open the wrap- fuge and microfiltration after “A Guide to Olive Oil and Olive • Pay attention to the year of ping paper, the chocolate warming up or cooking the Oil Tasting” and two children’s production. Olive oil does should have a uniform color. honey. With a crystallized books about olive oil and tasting, not get better with age. • Put the chocolate bar close honey, there are less chanc- “Coratina” and “Come visit the Look for the words: “Har- to your ear and break it: es of manipulations and Teeny Tine Town of Taste.” vest in” or “Harvest date.” If high-quality dark chocolate damaging microfiltration. www.arthuravenue.com She offers these tips on you cannot find it, consider should make a snapping shopping for high-quality putting the bottle back on sound to show that there For more information on Orietta WWW.NIAF.ORG Gianjorio, visit her website at www. olive oil, chocolate and honey: the shelf. is not a lot of fat besides orietta.net and Facebook page at cocoa butter. www.facebook.com/orietta.gianjorio

50 Ambassador Mike’s Deli Keeping up with Italian tradition Some things never change!

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2344 Arthur Avenue, Bronx NY 10458 718-295-5033 Fax 718-933-5903 37505_Magazine.indd 52 52 WWW.NIAF.ORG Ambassador Ambassador OF THEDUOMO A Behind-the-Scenes Tour of Milan’s Duomo Cathedral Story andPhotography by Heather von Bargen Italian heavyweightboxingchampionPrimo Carnera. alike StatueofLibertyby76years;unusual sculptureof added totheDuomo’s exteriorin1810,precedesitslook- Duomo’s secretpassageways;the“NewLawStatue,” Inset, Left: Milan’s DuomoCathedral donations. ongoing Duomo’s constantrestoration requires Although mostlycompletedin1965,the church intheworld. the fifth-largest of sums andsmalltotheconstruction since, patrons havecontributedlarge Fabbrica tobuildit.Oversixcenturies totheVenerandamarble quarries itbyopeningtheCandoglia started with donations.In1387,DukeVisconti spires piercing thesky, wasconstructed ened byexquisitestatuesanddelicate bol ofthecity, itsgothicfeatures soft- IslandinNewYorkon Liberty Harbor. America’s landmark statuethatstands ration from thispiecewhenhecreated tookinspi- Frédéric AugusteBartholdi schools across theUnitedStates. established orphanages,hospitalsand of DuomodiMilano.Andtheirunfor- Patrons the fundraisingInternational and choir, and Riccardo Tovaglieri, of Statue ofLiberty. Mennisuggestedthat gettable tourrevealed secrets ofthe fromtop:Dr. MarcelloMennishowingoneofthe tributed tothecampaignand,forour of ItalianimmigrantsinAmerica,she door thatstrongly resembles the museum,archives activities, quarries, donation, received aprivatetour Duomo wewouldhaveneverseen XIII in1889 American Foundationwastheprin- Milan’s DuomoCathedral,thesym- operates theDuomoanditscultural My husband,Matt,andIalsocon- a without theirguidance. American saint.SentbyPopeLeo cipal donortotheSaveSaint da FabbricadelDuomo,whichstill of theDuomo.Ourguideswere America,” Tovaglieri pointedout Madre FrancescaCabrini,thefirst campaign torestore thespire of Communications fortheVeneran- Dr. Marcello Menni,director of “the Duomohasaconnectionwith sculpture abovethecentralfront Last year, theNationalItalian explainingthat As westarted, tocare fortheinflux

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37505_Magazine.indd 53 and paintingsonexhibitaccent tradi- sculptures bottom up.Contemporary Menni taughtus streams through stained-glasswindows. 52 marblepillarsdividefivenaves. Light away,” headded.“Othersputitback.” did notagree withastrology andtookit line markthedate.“Somearchbishops Menni said.Zodiaccharactersalongthe togetthepeopleontime,” “totry ry solar clockinstalledinthe18thcentu- light followsthelineupwall.It’s a line atsolarnoon.Onthesolstices, adotonthe hole inthewallandforms up thewall.Sunlightpassesthrough a thelengthofinteriorfloorand runs in 1576prayingforsalvationfrom the procession through Milan Borromeo’s andArchbishopLeonardo daVinci, marble travelingviacanalsdesignedby Duomo, depictingworkersquarrying, ofthe rightmost doorshowsthehistory the doors,andsomescarsremain. The explode inthefront plaza,damaging stroyed muchofMilan.Butabombdid bombing ofWorld War IIthatde- lucky.” “They sayiftheytouchit,willbe in thelast20years,”Mennilaughed. “People havebegundoingthatonly have becomeshinyfrom theattention. thelegsofsculptedfigures that to rub doors oftheDuomo,touristslinedup plague. In themainarea ofthecathedral, Near theentrance,abronze inset the survived The cathedrallargely As wepassedbyoneofthebronze

toread themfrom the

the It wasdonatedtothecathedral.From menorahsintheworld. of thelargest Mennisaid,“Thisisone candelabrum, period,” Mennisaid. Roman cathedral from the4thcentury discovered onthissiteoftheprevious Veneranda Fabbricahassongsthatwere in theDuomo’s choirsince1402.“The Fabbrica’s musicschool.Boyshavesung teachattheVenerandaThe organists Italy withmore than17,000pipes. Duomo’s in thelargest pipeorgan, euros today, making himthelargest 30 million Fabbrica, hisbequest,worth his estatein1391totheVeneranda selling spices,woolandslaves. Heleft anese merchant who madehiswealth the sarcophagus ofMarco Carelli, aMil- and Christmas,”Mennisaid. rines anddragons.“We lightitatEaster sculpted sword-bearing monkeys,figu- from medievaltimes.” bronze art 17,000 pipes The largestpipeorganinItalywithmorethan 12thcentury, itisamasterpiece of Pointing toa16-foottallJewish-style On theinterior’s rightmostwallis baseisariotof The candelabrum’s the future,” hesaid. Near themainaltaris to art, opentomodern very “Ourinstitutionis tional art. The Duomo’s bronzedoorknownforits remarkable sculptedfigures…andfor visitors rubbingthemforgoodluck.

said. “We have restrooms, showers, ofcity,”cemetery, wehaveasort Menni dral wehaveacemetery, andunderthe door inthecorridor. “Underthecathe- noticed someonepassbehindanopen across thestreet. passageway tothepriests’residence of thestairswasasecret underground Ages,” Menni lan wasadangerous placeintheMiddle door, anddown aniron staircase. “Mi- past velvetropes through anondescript of themostspecialrites,”addedMenni. main altarforpublicviewing.“It’s one moves theholynail,andputsiton lift). Hereaches tothered light,re- cloud-and-angel-decorated mechanical inside theNivola(acloud-shapedand medallion andcross neartheceiling September, theArchbishop risestothe Nail is,forsafekeeping,”saidMenni. light? Thisistheplacewhere theHoly the 160-foothighnave.“Seealittlered medallion hangsneartheceilingof golden cross inset cross. A is anailfrom thecrucifixion rooftop spire, namedinhishonor. li’s funds,workcommencedonthefirst Carel- benefactor oftheDuomo.With near theceilingof light) inamedallion (indicated byared on thegoldencross kept inanenclosure from thecrucifixioncross, The Duomo’s mostfamousrelicisanail the nave. totheDuomo,we Returning At onepoint,ourguidesushered us TheSaturday before the14thof The Duomo’s best-knownrelic explained.Atthebottom

golden inalarger

Ambassador

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53 WWW.NIAF.ORG 54 WWW.NIAF.ORG Ambassador Menni laughed,mentioningthatTitian the time. “It is to say, you are very bad,” dressed inyellow, thecolorofheretics at A painting by Tintoretto featured Titian, Adam and the “bad animals” near Eve. that the “good animals" were near look atapaintingbyCeranorevealed showed us the “best things.” A closer stores and kitchens for our workers.” At the Duomo Museum, Menni nina, representing St. Mary’s Assump nina, representing St.Mary’s on therooftop, standsthegoldMadon mo’s highestpoint,highaboveuseven majestically inthedistance.AtDuo mon for a cathedral,” Menni said. “Veryweight PrimoCarnera. uncom them, thefamous1930sItalianheavy are sculptures ofmenboxing—one grapes decorate the coping. And there and by itstail.Pumpkins,artichokes, ing a statuette of a cat biting a mouse So dosomethingsunexpected,includ exterior onpedestals,spires andwalls. — almost 3,000 statues embellish the cles andspires astonishedus where theintricatepinna to the rooftop terrace as astudent. had dismissed Tintoretto every 30 to 40 years, we’re told. Lightning strikesher, sosheisre-gilded tion toHeaven,300feetabovethecity. statuette onrooftopterrace Right: Whimsicalcat-and-mouse Left: TherooftopstatueofSaintCabrini The Alps and the Apennines rose We took the elevator Give

- Future fortheir ------things Italian.ShelivesinTampa, Fla. photographer whofocusesontravelandall isawriterand Heather vonBargen part insavingher.part beauty, I was grateful we played a small the azure sky. In this place of ineffable white marbleseemedtoglowagainst he thankedusprofusely. what NIAFandothersgave,nonetheless tion.” Our gift was small compared to “Thank yousomuchforyourcontribu was her. our left,Isawaspire withaplaque.It surrounded by eight soaring spires. To gate. We approached a large terrace Menni called security to open the I lookedinaweasMotherCabrini’s Asweapproached, Tovaglieri said, www.weareniaf.com #WeAreNIAF in an area closed to the public. in anarea closedtothepublic. higher than the Madonnina. higher thantheMadonnina. “There is a tradition now,” Until 1960,nobuildingwas respect.” of St. Mary on top, for ontop,for of St.Mary Menni said.“Whenanew the builder will put a statue skyscraper isbuiltinMilan, Mother Cabrini’s spire is - © Associated Press become Christmas Construction The and Times”; the book professional decorated Emilio Poets”; Most Passion.” “A an Iodice and Kid tree annual American Important Christmas workers “Profiles public in “Reflections: from is New His an tradition line Philadelphia, York latest award speaker. in diplomat, Decision up in and Leadership for book BY 1931. Stories winning New pay EMILIO His STORY is You The York beside “2016 presidential works of Mario Christmas A Will Love, landmark. writer, from

the IODICE Selecting include Ever first Lanza: Leadership, Caesar educator, tree Rockefeller Make.” historian, went his the The to bestselling on President: executive, Modern Courage Voice to Center and of discovered thesecret vision andweeachhaveamission onthisplanet.TheItalian ofalarger to be;weare doingsomethingthatisalways part matter whatourduties;no howmenialourtasksseem of workandlife.Itwasthatnomatterwhatourstate; no understood. Itwasarevelation. he said,“Iamnotlayingbricks.Ibuildingacathedral.” setting overManhattan.“Sir, youdon’tunderstandanything,” complexion andrough beard glowedintheraysof sun The immigrantstared athim.Hesmiled.Hisblackeyes,dark have beenlayingbricksalldayinthismiserableweather.” lo creating thePieta? anyone care about him?WhywashelaboringlikeMichelange- sum.ItwasChristmasEve.Didhehaveafamily? a paltry passionate? Afterall,thiswasonlyawall.Hebeingpaid man workingsohard? Whatwasdrivinghim?Whyheso movements, houruponhour. Hewasconfused.Whythis persevered. his wetclothesandfreezing fingershadnoeffect onhim.He weather, Ithadmeaning.The wintry something important. and quality. Forthisimmigrant,itwasmore thanawall.Itwas aboutprecision, appearance ly athiswork.Hewasconcerned That immigrantwasmygrandfather. wasstunned.Helost.Suddenly,The reporter he Finally, You heaskedhimaquestion.“Aren’t youweary? followedthelaborer.The reporter Hewatchedhis THE IMMIGRANTANDREPORTER toachievement,successand hope. the Renaissance. from upon anotherlikeanartisan cement andgentlyplacedonestone continued histask.Hemixed a houseofprayer. was restoring anoldwallattachedto from Italy. Hewaslayingbricks. wind andrain.Hewasanimmigrant laborer wastoiling inthefreezing doned exceptforoneman.Asingle site.Theplacewasaban- struction walked intothecity’slargest con- prepare. day byday. Hedidn’tknowwhatto the Great Depression. Itgrew worse were ravagedbytheonslaughtof uplift thespiritofhisreaders. They tale ofhumaninterest. Hewantedto York setouttowritea Cityreporter i t

was Despite theelements,man He wandered tomidtown.He c This manknewthemeaning hristmas Helookedcareful- e ve . ANew BAROLO and Testing the OLD NEW Controversial By Dick Rosano Difference arolo is one of Italy’s most famous so many years to pour the wines they wines. In fact, the winemakers poured their money into buying. Bof this stylish and historic bev- Giving in to new market pres- erage would say that it is Italy’s most sures, some winemakers in Piedmont famous wine. In a crowded field of began to change their ways, produc- Nebbiolo-based offerings like Spanna, ing what are now called “new style” Ghemme, Sizzano, Gattinara — even Barolo. These wines differ from their the supremely elegant Barbaresco — predecessors with riper harvesting, Barolo stands alone at the summit of closed and/or temperature-controlled great wines from the Piedmont region fermentation, and aging in newer, of northern Italy. smaller barrels for shorter periods of This grand example of the coun- time. The result is a wine that tastes try’s wines has a long history, with and smells like Barolo — perhaps with written records of the name stretch- riper, fruitier profiles — that doesn’t ing back to the early 19th century. So require the years of aging to open up. it would be with some trepidation, Which is best? We wondered the bordering on angst, that the wine- same thing, and whether each has its makers of the region would tamper own place on the table and market.

with the traditions and methods of To delve into the differences, Courtesy of VIAS Imports Ltd. Barolo production. we (Ambassador magazine's editor, So-called “old style” Barolo, that Don Oldenburg, and I) collected two sorting through the possibilities, the is to say, nearly every wine that was dozen bottles, and two additional and tasting notes — reflecting mostly made for 180 years, relies on open-top well-respected professional wine crit- mine but with valuable input from the fermentation and long barrel aging ics: Ben Giliberti and Scott Greenberg. rest of the panel — follow. to produce an sophisticated wine with We grouped the wines into “old” and great prospects for aging. The down- “new” styles if the producers voiced side is that this wine is not necessarily their opinion on the style, then used Old Style Barolos easy to consume in its first 10 years. our own tasting impressions to label Age most of these for 10-20 years As I’ve noted before: “Buy Barbera for the Barolos that were not pre-termed • 2010 Attilio Ghisolfi Barolo Bussia tonight, Barbaresco for your cellar, and as such by the producers. ($60). Taut, dried fruit, tannic, Barolo for you children.” The tasting was amazing, as one good acidity, good balance. Score: 93 As wine consumption and global- would expect. Not without its surpris- • 2011 BelColle Barolo ($60). Earthy, ization opened up markets around es, though with no disappointments. aromas and flavors tightly wrapped the world for all nations’ wines, tastes The old and new styles stood out but waiting to explode. Score: 91 changed, and so did the desire to sat- clearly, and while one might fit nicely • 2012 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto isfy those tastes. The American mar- into a certain menu, another might ($250). Soft and aromatic; nice WWW.NIAF.ORGket has driven winemaking practices stand out with another. front palate impression with good since World War II, and Americans The real test is which wine each balance, cherry and blackberry are an impatient lot, not likely to wait consumer prefers. To help with accent. Score: 94

56 Ambassador 37505_Magazine.indd 57 • • • • beautiful Langheregion The DamilanovineyardsinBarolo,Italy’s 91 and softtannins.Score: driedfruit andraspberry, of cherry onnose,tautflavors Lightly fruity  2011 93 palate. Score: deeperintothe mint andraspberry upfront, abitof ($94). Cherry  2011 94 palate. Score: tannins, leatherandtoastonback onfront palate,soft dried fruit andtingly,($87). Fragrantnose,tart  2011 Tangy 93 andlong.Score: tobacco, oak,andlighttannins. bracedwith Bright aromas offruit 2012 DamilanoBarolo Liste($85). DamilanoBarolo Cannubi DamilanoBarolo Cerequio Ca RomeBarolo Rapet($103). • • •

and softtannins.Score: 92 fruit delicious palateimpression ofripe yetprovocative aromas, Dried fruit 85 interesting. Score: not very ($51). Thinandabitshort,  2011 2010  89 wine. Score: balanced, whichmakesitareliable of tobaccoonpalate.Very well withatouch slow todevelop,cherry Lecinquevigne ($47).Leanand  2012 Courtesy of VIAS Imports Ltd. and inMonforted’Alba. Commune ofDogliani has vineyardsthe the late1700sandtoday wine estatedatesbackto The family-runPecchenino Marchesi diBarolo Tradizione DamilanoBarolo ($79). Marcarini Barolo Brunate the tasting,atCerequiovineyards, Michele Chiarlo,makerofthe2011 Damilano BaroloCerequioin in theheartofBarolo,Italy

• • •

the oldandnew. 92 Score: elegant presentation, abridgebetween ($64).  2012 2012 93 dominate thebackpalate.Score: and taraccents,leathertoasty oak cherry ($72).Softfruit, di Monforte  94 Score: onthepalate. style, oddlymodern finish. Althoughmadeintheold and plums,someleather, rewarding impression ofblackcherry forward okay,Barolo ($93).Amplefruit,  2010 PeccheninoBarolo SanGiuseppe PeccheninoBarolo LeCoste Marchesi diBarolo Barolo di softtannins, Luscious fruit, The Cerequiovineyard

Ambassador in Barolo

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57 WWW.NIAF.ORG 37505_Magazine.indd 58 58 WWW.NIAF.ORG Ambassador New StyleBarolos • • Styles asJudgedby thePanel • • • • Can beheldfor15years,orconsumedsooner •

 2011 2012 2011 2009  2012 90 style.Score: modern True tothe palate, softandforward. slightlytannicon of juicyred fruit, d’Alba Barolo ($45).Nicearomas 2011 to95. rise, probably assuredly Still initsinfancy, (92)will sothescore are slowbutsure todevelop. and licoriceflavors berry, cherry, theoak, ($130). Tight andreserved,  93 black pepperonthefinish.Score: of oak,vanillaandtoast,withahint by theoldmethods.Thisonehaslots not foundwithsomewinesproduced and age-abilitybutwithafruitiness new styles,producing winesofdepth Ceretto winesstraddletheoldand 92 on thenoseandfinish.Score: licorice, prominent features ofoak and tannic, flavorsofcherry Aromatic andoakyonnose,very  91 Score: finish. savory and blackcherry, hintsoftobacco,vanilla, forward,  acidity. 95 Score: andtangy with themint,cherry oak; butitveerstoward newstyle old styleintheleather, toastand DelGris($95).Hintsofthe Vigna 2012 91 light spice.Score: plum,and flavors,cherry, dark fruit ($75).Lush,brilliant Pernanno  Ceretto Barolo ($55).The Ceretto Barolo Brunate PaoloManzone($80). LucaBosio($44).Crisp,fruity, CascinaBongiovanniBarolo Fontanafredda Serralunga FantinoBarolo Conterno

influence ofItalianAmericanson wine. Heritage”onthe book“Wine well asahistory “Tuscan Blood”and“HuntingTruffles,” as Altamura: NaziCrimes,ItalianTreasures,” of mysteries setinItaly:“TheSecret the three other nationalmagazines.Heistheauthorof Washington Enthusiast,and Post,Wine in Ambassadormagazine,aswellThe here writer whosecolumnshaveappeared Dick Rosanoisawine,foodandtravel • • • • • • 2011 2011 2010  92 Score: andteaflavors. black cherry Aromatic, ripeyetsoftapproach, 2010 tannins.Oldstyle.Score: 92 firm soft mature tannins;lightbodybut litetobaccoaccents, fruit, forward 2011 bracing acidity. 94 Score: style)and with hintsoak(modern Cannubi ($107).Ripe,fresh fruit 2011  94 a newstyle.Score: style winebuttheapproachability of balance. Ithasthedepthofanold of chocolateandlightspice,great withaccents darkfruit the start, ($184).Fullbodiedfrom Sarmassa  87 Score: style, abitoverripe. inthemodern andfruity forward Coste diRose($85).Mediumbody,  91 instyle.Score: modern flavors,lovelyfinish.More fruit the elementofbriefaging).Soft finessed, withlighttannins(showing ($113). AstraightupBarolo, lightly Barolo Bussia($91). Prunotto Barolo ($60).Soft Prunotto Marchesi diBarolo Barolo Marchesi diBarolo Barolo Marchesi diBarolo Barolo Fontanafredda Barolo laRosa

Photos CourtesyofVIASImportsLtd. Le CostediMonfortinthetasting Giuseppe andthe2012PeccheninoBarolo produce the2012PeccheninoBaroloSan Left: OrlandoPeccheninowhosevineyards upholding Damilano’s traditionalphilosophy. the family’s wine-makingbusinesswhile the fourthgeneration,arebringingnewvigorto to the1890s.Today, Paolo,MarioandGuidoDamilano, Far left:TheDamilanofamilyvineyardsdateback tion. of Barolo, adrywinefrom itsincep- Francesco Staglienoisthetruefather In fact,newresearch showsthatPaolo Mon Dieu! transformed Barolo intoa drywine. a French oenologist,Louis Odart,who wine” rumoralsosuggeststhatitwas doesn’t fermentoutdry. This“sweet some residual sugar, andthewine A so-called“stuckfermentation”leaves halted bythelate-autumncoldweather. fruit thatwarmfermentationwouldbe for harvest,thesugarissohighin and, bythetimeitismature enough the grape,Nebbiolo,isslowtoripen folklore isbasedinparton thefactthat lo wasoriginallyasweetwine.The There’s apersistent rumorthatBaro- The BaroloFolklore that’s astoryforanother time. was originallyawhitewine.Really! But methods inthatdirection. AndChianti of themanwhodrove fermentation ing the“Staglienomethod,”inhonor calls thewholeideaofdrywinemak- aspect ofthetranslatedtraditioneven Nebbiolo grown onhisproperty. One to makeadry, agreeable winefrom the no wascalleduponbyCamilloBenso were stillbeingbottledsweet,Staglie- Inthe1830s,whenmanywines

—Dick Rosano

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37505_Magazine.indd 59 11/25/16 3:56 PM 60 WWW.NIAF.ORG BETWEEN THE PAGES Photographs © Mauro Marinelli Ambassador • • • • holidays: books right? Makes Christmas Winter The dark best “Outside As the far person Buying winter a what’s W underwear, Books book arning: Groucho more right friend. Here make to sense is are better night Holidays in is the read.” the is meaningful tie of a May front easier are great the to personal right ideal and Inside a or Marx and than dog, combine 10 cause ideal coffeemaker. of kitchen gifts to book reasons doze time a once to of a wrap fire time book journey drowsiness. cozy during a than for for off. dog the said, on utensils. than why for reading. up is the buying two, a it's man's the that cold giving. with good right socks, too But is great holiday • • • • • • to American They can ful T One by on gadgetry In expensive. Good experience They’r No Italian o this your Any repeat it, witticism: batteries are gift open size scribble ones reading of digital e all for bedside. American a authors fits gifts, the again way Garrison written are just you all required. “A books age of notes list you priceless the imaginations. and loved. book sharing or of would by readers, can right Keillor’s are on in again.” the Italian is it, spill this of Italian AmericanReader a but latest make a person. and gift interest literary or year’s coffee not wonder- you both. leave techie a that interest, a are beginning telling glimpse, then we Because soupçon, instinctively meant Buona Keep turn passage when or here in to to lettura! as just suggest mind, the be well we browsing from enough study nothing first provide as And our a its each perfect page the Buon brief cover. to in more cover a book’s get for bookstores, brief Natale! reviews gift! your a than and but PAGES THE BETWEEN

Under Old Stars: and light, and stilling motion and Wanderings in Italian Hill Towns detail. Photographs by Mauro Marinelli Marinelli’s photos range from Prose Sketches and Poems deeply wrinkled ancient men to by Rob Lloyd young children with haunting Kehrer Verlag; 160 pages stares. Grainy images reveal distant $40 hardcover mountainous terrain turned through hillsides toward the sea. This book of stunning, stark, Crumbling walls, upkept altars, a black-and-white images from small sleeping dog, old women in black, hill towns in Italy’s Molise province a crooked sconce, hanging laundry, was born from the recurring dreams a threadbare laborer, a shepherd of photographer Mauro Marinelli’s and flock in a hillside pasture, they uncle Peter. As a boy in upstate New all whisper the primeval reality of York, Marinelli listened intently at Italy’s second-smallest and largely dinnertime to his elderly immigrant overlooked region. uncle tell of his recurring dreams of Interwoven with the pages of his childhood home in southern Italy. Marinelli’s photographs are Rob Years later, Marinelli went Lloyd’s captivating prose sketches looking for those dreamscapes, and poems, narrative kin to the focusing his camera lens on people photos but not connected. and scenes of Molise’s remote Like the old uncle’s dreams, villages, their broken cobbled Lloyd’s vignettes, scenes and streets, their scarred frescoed voices, coexisting with Marinelli’s churches. The artful results fill exquisite images, evoke a dream-like this beautiful book’s pages with surreality of a place and time gone mesmerizing, visual studies in by. This is a fascinating book. stopped time, contrasting shadows — Don Oldenburg 37505_Magazine_X.indd 62 62 WWW.NIAF.ORG BETWEEN THE PAGES { Ambassador from a1943suicideinVenice hotel linksthepastwithpresent, artfully AndRosano ning themeofthestory. ItaliantownofAltamura. southern cache thathebelieves find the“secret” treasure forhisown driven byhisobsessionforwealth—to and bringittoGermany. The colonelis “save,” actuallyplunder, Italianartwork squad are senttoItalyduringWWII andhis Bernhard Anselm Bernhard. NaziofficerCol. including ruthless with fictionalplotsandcharacters, meldingofhistory ents anentertaining Altamura,” authorDickRosanopres- 282 pages;$12.99 CreateSpace IndependentPublishing By DickRosano Nazi Crimes,ItalianTreasure The Secret ofAltamura: search andseizeItaly’swealth. ofthismissionto to keephimincharge lin —enoughtoconvincehissuperiors wouldbesenttoBer- And theremainder

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an flowing.CarlodeVito, storyline charactersthatkeepthe modern-day magazine’s winewriter, skillfullyadds religion. revenge, familyloyalties,guiltand intosub-themesofmurder,narrative directs the anditsinformation journal rightful Italianowners.Possessingthe toits artwork tohelpreturn journal uses hisgrandfather’s (thecolonel) who Bernhard, historianMartin art retribution, topresent-day German room thatleadsto“aneyeforaneye” Rosano, whoisAmbassador

{ early 20thcentury, authorJoe 274 pages;$22.95 Square Editions Harvard By JoeGiordano Birds OfPassage in, butcrackedwithsadness.” Addio aNapoli.Othervoicestriedtojoin withaplaintivesong, young tenorrose “On thepierhigh-pitchedvoiceofa

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37505_Magazine.indd 63 union boss“Big”JimO’Neil,there’s East SidegangleaderFrankRizzoand ping personalities,includingLower to thestoryline. (father ofCarlo),addsrobust drama gang bossinNaples,Salvatore Mazzi family. crime (Camorra) Apowerful killing Pero Silvestri,theleaderofa Naples andishiding the sakeofhonor. CarloMazziflees ties thathavebeenkeptsecret for boss, andeventuallydiscoversfamily involved inmurders, worksforagang for ajobandnewlife.Buthegets America aboard asteamlinerin1905 Leonardo RobustellileavesNaplesfor becoming dullisacredit tohisprose. deck ofcharactersandplotsfrom America, forbetterorworse. in immigrants andtheirstruggles images oftheBigApple’s Italian create vivid this compellingnarrative Italy, toNewYork City, thepagesof a landscapestretching from Naples, characters in“Birds ofPassage.”With dano deliversanovelwithabundant aNewYorkWith Citycastofgrip- Giordano’s abilitytokeepafull inAmericaafter { Confidential: Dolce Vita the firstchaptertolast. staying withthisbook,from you’llenjoy storytelling, dano’s skillfulandlively intends tostay. Gior- With forwork,butnever country toanother home country person whotravelsfrom his 447 pages;$27.95hardcover W.W. &Company Norton By ShawnLevy 1950s Rome and theSwingingHighLifeof Fellini, tions. ofmachina- no shortage Rome ornot. in a modelforliving,whetheryouare andeccentricity,religion, dooffer really culture, art, tance withdepthsofhistory, and thelocals,withtheirdailyacquain- doleadtoit, allroads Rome iseternal,

Jr. Bartus —Robert A “bird ofpassage”isa

Loren, Pucci,Paparazzi,

Hardcover • 160 pages • 94 BW photos • amazon.com/under-old-stars-wanderings-italian/dp/3868287051

“A beautifulandevocative

their oldways, inremote hilltowns insouth-central Italy. largely lost today, amongpeopledeeplyat homewith book takes readers onajourney to discover aworld Through blackand white images andprose sketches, this exquisite I’ve prints ever seen.”

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tofashioncompetitor From penury symbol ofstyle,sparkleandcharm. toaworldwide rise from post-warruin is revealed asromantic root ofItaly’s flame nevergetsextinguished.Rome Citywhoseruin-to-rise as theEternal Confidential” explores Rome’s role mous withglamor, glitterandglitz. post-war risethatmadeItalysynony- catalyst, andsculptorofanunlikely war Romefeature thecityasbackdrop, the flashofpaparazzicamerasinpost- -Alan Arkin piece,“DolceVita No fluff mauromarinelli.com Mauro Marinelli HillTownsItalian Wanderings in Under OldStars: photographs by flair… confidence andélan in plainview, steepedin ly-caring, atahighrate, of knowing-but-not-entire- company, withanattitude andhappy beautiful form live fullyandsweetly, in has alwaysbeen,surely, to but amongthosemeanings times, things atdifferent na hasmeantdifferent …To livelifeallaRoma- Film, fashion,and Ambassador

11/25/16 3:56 PM

63 WWW.NIAF.ORG BETWEEN THE PAGES 37505_Magazine.indd 64 64 WWW.NIAF.ORG BETWEEN THE PAGES Ambassador course, itsspicyfood. ry, geographyandculture —and,of of the Lucky forusFabiocan’t keepasecret! often called“Italy’s BestKeptSecret.” insights are amustread. Calabriais ing ofgoingtoCalabria,herfirsthand because itisherlife.Soifyou’re think- along theTyrrhenian andIonianseas land between500milesofcoastline there, youpayattention. andhadherbaby there, thenmarried raised goatsandsavored espresso ly existenceintheStates,andthen years agoafterescapingherlawyer- region, thelocationsheadopted13 writes aguidebooktoherancestral ex-pat writersinthesouthofItaly 184 Locals KnowItalyTravel Guide By MichelleFabio 52 ThingstoSee&DoinCalabria Romanholiday.virtual raphy aficionadosseekingareal or fashionistas,andflashphotog- buffs, Spanish-Step swankstillsought. Vespa and rides,Trevi Fountaintrysts, care-free destinationforthegelato, made Italyknownworldwideasa Peck’s passionate“Cleopatra,”Rome day” toElizabethTaylor andGregory Peck’s whirlwind“RomanHoli- ory andGreg- Fromtry. Audrey Hepburn to epicenterofthe1950sfilmindus- on theTiber,” rose from refugee camp tana sisters.Cinecittà,or“Hollywood including Pucci,BrioniandtheFon- alyst fortheriseofItaliancouturiers, ascreative cat- of Paris,Romeserved pages;$6.99Kindle withanoverview The bookstarts Michelle Fabioknowsthisancient Look, whenoneofyourfavorite This bookwillappealtofilm region, itsnaturalbeauty, histo- — KristenKeppel

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mendations. Fabiosticksto ever, are hotelandrestaurant recom- won’t findinconventionalguidebooks. photos andlotsofinsidertidbitsyou than 52thingstoseeanddoare great go wrong withthisfriendlyguide. aly’s boot-shapedpeninsula,youwon’t guide totheregion that’s thetoetoIt- ratings toothers.Foraconcisetravel to do”andwhere togo,andleavesthe What youwon’t findhere, how- — DanielleDeSimone

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37505_Magazine.indd 65 11/25/16 3:56 PM 37505_Magazine.indd 66 66 WWW.NIAF.ORG CINEMA Ambassador Documenting theRefugeeCrisis Filmmaker GianfrancoRosi’s LAMPEDUSA “Fire atSea” on

Samuele Pucilloin“FireatSea” By MariaGarcia “Fire atSea”scene

11/25/16 3:56 PM Samuele Pucilloin“FireatSea” “Fire atSea”scene 37505_Magazine.indd 67 Sea” feature SamuelePuccilo,one of said, “ifthiscrisisisnotresolved.” European Unionwillcollapse,” Rosi ing warsathome.“Europe andthe for refugees, mostofwhomare flee- of themostdangerous in Tunisia andLibyatoLampedusaone from figure makestheseacorridor first fourmonthsofthatyear. The Agency recorded 1,600deaths inthe number oflives,theU.N.Refugee the factthatItalyhadsavedarecord visited Lampedusa.In2015,despite in 2013and2014,whenRosihadfirst thecoastofisland taken placeoff middle ofthesea.” of Lampedusahadbeenmovedtothe these worlds,”Rosisaid.“Theborder instead Ifoundtheseparationof life were somehowinteracting,but a placewhere thesetwoelementsof ately dashed.“IthoughtIwouldfind his October, the filmmakerrecalled that the NewYork FilmFestivalthispast would shapehisdocumentary. of friendshipsandculture clashesthat island —andheanticipatedthestories alteration inthecharacterof nearly imperceptible butdefinitive a cacophonyofforeign languages,a inhabitants were faring.Heexpected to wonderhowLampedusa’s 6,000 of hundreds ofthousandsthatledRosi and Africa.Itwasthismassmigration ing forrefugees from theMiddleEast asasafeland- the last15yearsserved island, 70milesfrom Tunisia, havefor rocky shores ofthissmallSicilian at Sea”)issetinLampedusa.The “Fuocoammare” (“Fire documentary expectationswere almostimmedi- The openingsequencesof“Fire at Several disastrous searescues had from In atelephoneinterview Gianfranco Rosi’s feature-length Refugees in“FireatSea” theworld

moment inwhichRosileads theaudi- of “Fire atSea,”isagrim,yetcathartic in arapsong. that chronicles theirdifficultjourney of menwhoplaysoccer, andanother the center. Healsofollowsonegroup and menas to therefugees, andfilmedwomen rescue them,nooneeverseesthem.” for thedoctorandauthoritieswho are taken toacenterbybusand,except they Italian ship,”hesaid.“Afterward, tothe at night,andtheyare transferred shown inthedocumentary. of thesedramaticdebarkationsare ofrefugees, andtwo dozens ofarrivals Italianfilmmakershot an-born, lifeontheisland. everyday round outRosi’s representation of therocky coastline, cuttlefish off and amysteriousdiverwhocollects Samuele’s fatherandgrandmother, andidentifiesthedead. ines survivors, Lampedusa’s solephysician.Heexam- “Fire atSea,”asisDr. nouncer isalsooneofthesubjectsin over 50hadperished.Theradioan- had beenpulledfrom thesea,butthat that206refugees radio stationreports Lampedusa’s local The nextmorning, rescue ship. received bytheoffshore moves toadesperatecallforhelp then which unfoldswithoutnarration, fashion aslingshot.Thedocumentary, of atree limbthatare laterusedto smallpieces Rosi’s subjects,cuttingoff The secondrescue, neartheend Rosi wasgivenremarkable access “Most refugees reach Lampedusa During production, theEritre- theywere processed at Pietro Bartolo,

zens are amicrocosm ofEurope. ways inwhichLampedusaanditsdeni- toillustratethe on archetypal patterns stances, thefilmmakeractuallyrelies to drawfrom suchdisparatecircum- the ship.WhileRosi’s leitmotifappears sceneinthehullof or thehorrifying bucolic existenceoftheLampedusians, therelatively tutes thereal aberration, consti- that comprisethedocumentary ence toquestionwhichoftheworlds for theseconditions.” narrator edy ofdeathinthefilm.Heisa would neverbeabletowatchthetrag- thedoctor,explained. “Without we the conscienceofisland,”Rosi is Rosi’s “Heistheinnerworld, Virgil. treats Samuele’s ofbreath, shortness attentively andcompassionatelyashe ultrasound onapregnant refugee as Europe’s reaction totherefugee crisis.” to speak,hisanxietyattacks,resemble “hisjourney, so of life,”Rosiobserved, andharshness accept theuncertainties ily. to “Samuele’s adolescentstruggle ofhomeandfam- gentle preservation dle-age despair, andNonnaPuccilo’s coming-of-age, Dr. Bartolo’s mid- are Samuele’s narrative documentary’s the AncientGreeks whomayhave cuisine. Itharkensbacktothe timeof preparation oftheisland’s signature the continuityoflifeandculture inher the PelagieIslands;shealsopersonifies World War II’s BattleofPantelleriaand she recalls theoriginal“fire atsea,” as embodiment ofhistoricalmemory threads The interwoven As forNonnaPuccilo,sheis The doctor, an who performs Samuele Pucilloin“FireatSea” ofthe Ambassador the

11/25/16 3:56 PM

67 WWW.NIAF.ORG CINEMA 68 WWW.NIAF.ORG CINEMA Ambassador ra beginning er’s the edy. Lampedusa ‘What make her, of around makes larly given ing mournful in Star-studded arias, one of After them when with represent and Egitto” deaths Puccilo saints. of ancient report of the and It Upon “The regard evocative having “Dal is he the the the an represents Gioachino her unforgettable,” the doctor, must it “I at look incredible (“Moses island Israelites bed,” prayer, the tuo hearing exclaims: took of bed, of sea, was room, past to is to Throne”) the 50 view Stellato deliver not in scene, the report there the Rosi and and her its and refugee the it documentary, Rossini’s the in just prays refugees. precedes in of the name. radio 30 in the “Poor world Egypt,” radio said. to the the Signora most connection a one Soglio” from the Rosi radio her minutes second the announcer to news Red deaths man “I In day, man’s famous site of souls!” the Italians progress said. sea.” “Mosè the 1822). thought: announc- a (“Your ritual.’ Sea. Puccilo plays about of series particu- visiting statues drown- to Signo- at eyes trag- to She the A of craft. al Oscar Italy’s Festival, hitman. (2010), United received previous Berlin ing out hope reversal “Fire with this for tape, covers slingshot never continents different boyhood his how garnered documentary, crisis.” “Fuocoammare” As “I the at Rosi to His having father’s entry am in the Film for States, Sea,” an of Europe Rosi’s During “Fuocoamare” slingshot, limited countries 2017. documentaries, at family Italian, said: Samuele, resulting gave this Samuele interview as the Festival. for a he the work. the place despondency. “El habit, Rosi “That me island’s the is the moved makes distribution but top inspiration Sicario, trying the and but this Best holes credits New of also who Among with growing is adding prize is filmmaker at identity,” on experience Rosi’s a was cacti, a often Foreign stalks to surprising points the York only metaphor with a different Room at his patch named Mexican his a end in and up break- the because for one Film note birds duct unusu- he his the three in Film 164” of hav- his 2016 up then of of Film feature Ambassador author, at was tity: Her life said. ments and of about sion the adds “lightness,” films, want tion lived another escape said. mariagarciawrites.com. its — filmmaker’s new published The his Journal of on Maria Rosi’s Rosi “What “He a scale, to there but a not of articles touch writer your singularity undersea crisis Hero’s say “Fuocoammare.” book, place reflection moved cannot with intensity everything Garcia remains magazine. for is profound yet International own and this of “Cinematic that, also important in Encounter the a a magic extraordinary to order identity, frequent Spring. year lightness.” be is world appear in ironically, diver a Lampedusa, often in faceless. explained, a New Her has during the things realism. documentary see are Quests Visit with as regularly in contributor and and reviews precludes York a film,” He something.” an “Fire reason.” these “The the because her Cineaste. in produc- move artist said, City-based for expres- He as Beast,” my Rosi website and at and in mo- Iden- in diver is Sea” “I to is to to The RC GROUP NATIONAL ITALIAN AMERICANFOUNDATION RESTAURANT &HOSPITALITY INDUSTRIES A

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The RC GROUP • 2530 Riva Road, Suite 400, Annapolis, Md 21401 • 410.573.0220 37505_Magazine.indd 70 11/25/16 3:56 PM 37505_Magazine.indd 71 Making the76ersGreat Again to thetop,norare theyanolder franchisethat’s been American basketball of theworldwithrelative ease. home countries,theDream Team shined goldontherest change wasmadetoallowNBAplayersrepresent their has aspark.Take USABasketball,forexample.Whenthe something, eventhemostunlikelyofoutcomessuddenly National ItalianAmericanFoundation,gothishandson baseball’s newestfranchisetoitsyoungesteverchampion. the ArizonaDiamondbackstakeanimpossibleridefrom NBAcontender, expansionintoatrue desert whomade up from itsinfancy, thePhoenixSunsfrom a whoturned but asaleader, adoer, whosawtheChicagoBullsgrow round balltotheUniversityofIllinois,where heexcelled. natural giftsthatpersuadedhimtofollowthevoiceof of theChicagosuburbs.Histalentandhisheightwere Italian Americanneighborhood onthe distantsouthside round ballandahardwood floor. thatvisionhasalwaysseemedtoincludea son, Bryan, pels someonetomakeitintoareality. Sohisdadisconsulting asthe76ers'adviser.of undertaking. both PhoenixandToronto. This, however, type is adifferent goodseasonsin manager intheNBA.Heoversawsomevery ager ofthe76ers.Hehasalready beenasuccessfulgeneral the newpresident ofbasketballoperationsandgeneralman- Colangelois gelos havetakenonanewhilltoclimb.Bryan mountain. Basketball backtotheirrightfulplaceatthetopof athisside,ColangeloguidedUSA MikeKrzyzewski With his yearsofwisdomandsteadydoseaccountability. its summerlove.That’s whenColangelosteppedinwith Challenge Colangelo Next By Wayne Randazzo A Several yearslater, thedream crashed,andthe ofthe Colangelo,abelovedpast-chairman When Jerry out,wasnotas gift,asitturned true Jerry’s Hill,alargely Colangelogrew upinHungry Jerry andhis For theColangelofamily, Jerry inparticular The 76ersaren’t ayoung USABasketballfinallyin agoodplace,theColan- With to bethisuncanny, unprovoked dream that com- or anytypeofventure hastobeavision.There has business lways attheforefront ofsuccessinsports,

squadwasn’t aseagerlyapproaching franchisethat’s neverbeen aplayer

beingputintoplace,and They havetheinfrastructure named NBAExecutiveoftheYear acombinedsixtimes. tolerated inPhillyanylonger. won’t be to oneoftheworstsingle-seasonsinNBAhistory Love. It’s timeforthe76erstodoitagain.Aplummeting done that. Barkley andAllenIverson,theSixershavebeenthere and toCharles greatness from MosesMalonetoJuliusErving atrailof the proudest With franchisesinNBAhistory. always kickedaround. ThePhiladelphia76ersisoneof the pionship since1983,are rightaround thecorner. appearancesand,justmaybe,thefirstNBACham- playoff Colangeloonboard, visionsoffuture andBryan with Jerry foot injury. draft buthasn’t playedhisfirstpro gameyetduetoa of LSUwasthenumberoneoverallpickinlastyear’s out least acouplemonths.Thehighlyregarded forward forward. in theFallissueofAmbassador. fortheNew YorkMy Life,”aboutbeingradiobroadcaster Mets, and BigTen Network.Readhisfirst-person column,“ADayin televisionplay-by-play announcerforESPN He’s alsoafreelance show hostandfill-inplay-by-playannounceronWOR-AM. Wayne RandazzoistheNewYork andpostgame Metspregame Scott Romer Photography former NBAheadcoachandcurrentlyananalystwithTV. Induction andAwards Gala,November12,inChicago,withVinnyDelNegro, Jerry ColangeloattheNationalItalianAmericanSportsHallofFame’s 39thannual 76ersare lookingtousethe2016-17seasonasaleap During theircareers, thetwoColangeloshavebeen That’s whytheColangelosare intheCityofBrotherly Still, thehoperemains strong inPhiladelphiathat They’ll havetodothatwithoutBenSimmonsforat

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37505_Magazine.indd 72 11/25/16 3:56 PM 37505_Magazine.indd 73 Social Print Co. of ItalianAmericanyoungpeople, who out was duetotheunprecedented turn and jubilantinalongwhile. clared thisyearthemostelectrifying Dinner, guestIencountered de- every Expo ItalianaandemotionalGala night, through Saturday’s jam-packed attheVarietyrevelry ShowonFriday Association Thursdayevening,tothe dinner attheWhiteHouseHistorical the record books.From ourkick-off onefor able honorees, wascertainly the accomplishmentsofeightremark- Honor, Piemonte,andcelebrating nizing the2016NIAFRegionof are payingoff. that ourefforts clear Weekend, Ithink itwasabundantly Gala celebrated our41stAnniversary Lastmonth,aswe of thecountry. corner icans ofallages,from every accessible weekendforItalianAmer- that itmightbeamore inclusiveand to grow thisvenerabletradition,so NIAF team,ourBoard andIsetout American celebration. into thisspecialweekendofItalian this Foundationthantobringthem to exposepeoplethegreat worksof even then,thatthere isnobetterway I wasimmediatelyhooked!realized, by thejoyofsuchanincredible event, Weekend atage 16and,overwhelmed A NIAFGalafor(All)theAges! NIAFPresident By JohnM.Viola, To me,muchofthisgreat energy This year’s celebration,recog- Five yearsago,whenIjoinedthe I attendedmyfirstNIAFGala tothethousandsinattendance

night’s Variety Show. As Friday of mystomachaswekickedoff gone conclusion.Ihadknotsinthepit melding ofagegroups wasnotafor- our heritagewiththesenewcomers. so enthusiasticallyshare theirpridein ofourFoundation’sheart work,who erations ofourcommunity, longthe embraced andengagedbyoldergen- It’sdifference. thewaythattheyare of theseyoungpeoplethatmakesa siastic ItalianAmericansatourevents. a growing numberofyoungandenthu- Americans, weatNIAFare proud tosee engaging thenextgenerationofItalian the communityattesttodifficultyin er numberseachyear. continue tojoinourfestivitiesingreat- host andproducer oftheAmerican la Mallozzi,theEmmyAward-winning young ItalianAmericannamed Micke- newest teammembers,Ihad inviteda At therecommendation ofone our night brought methemostanxiety. with proud ItalianAmericans! the sheerjoyofbeinginaroom filled another’s euphoric company, andin the incredible talentsonstage,inone ian Americansofallagesreveling in act, Ibegantonoticeacrowd ofItal- event. But,attheconclusionofeach reluctant toembracethisnewtypeof vision ofemptytablesandanaudience into theBallRoom,Icringedat Believe itornot,thisbeautiful But it’s notsimplythepresence One finalactattheendof Mickela MallozzileadsthecrowdinatarantelladanceatGala’s FridaynightVarietyShow Whilemanyin gueststrickled

Public Television eration wasnotonlyattainable, remarkable heritagetothenext gen- our aimofpassingonNIAF andour with me.ThemomentIrealized that night, itwillbethismomentthatstays to crown ourweekendthefollowing honorees thatwere unforgettable tion forItalianAmericansofallages. authentic, invitingandjoyouscelebra- ship hasmadeofthepastfiveyears...an ourleader- manifestation oftheefforts foralltosee,aphysical brought forth, vescent youngItalianAmericanwoman and watchedindisbeliefasthiseffer- thatIsimplysat was sooverwhelming throes ofthatmostItaliandances. Americans, young turous tidalwaveofhundreds ofItalian There, onthedancefloor, wasarap- will staywithmefortherest ofmylife. amazement, insteadIfoundasightthat ging areluctant audience.But,tomy poke myheadouttofindherbeg- Iwould begin hercajoling,certain Mickela tookupthemicrophone and underway. truly would bemetwithsilentresistance. the dancefloorforatarantellalesson togetouraudience that herefforts ballroom thatevening.Iwasterrified the 800guestswhohadpacked lesson intraditionalItaliandanceto with MickelaMallozzi,”topresent a For allofthegreat successesand The swellofuninhibiteddelight Working backstage,Itensedas Andy DelGiudice/DGDCPhotography series“Bare Feet andold,inthe Ambassador but

11/25/16 3:56 PM

73 WWW.NIAF.ORG PENSIERI PRESIDENZIALI Insider Italians in DC children’s group performing the Italian and U.S. national anthems

st Anniversary Emcees NIAF Andy DelGiudice President John M. Viola 41 Gala Celebration and Joe Piscopo Andy DelGiudice NIAF’s 41st Anniversary Gala proved to be a weekend-long

celebration of Italian and Italian American traditions, music, Don Oldenburg food and pride. Held at the Washington Marriot Wardman Park Hotel in Washington, D.C., the nation’s premier Italian American party was presented by this year’s NIAF Region of Honor, Piemonte, and Walgreens Boots Alliance. Andy DelGiudice

The weekend’s cen- singer and songwriter Tony woman Connie Morella; and terpiece, the black-tie Gala Renis; Giuseppe Lavazza, vice Lawrence Romo, director of Awards Dinner on Saturday, chairman of Lavazza; philan- the Selective Service System. October 15, started with thropist Maria Franca Ferrero Italian dignitaries included Gala Weekend Chairman of the Ferrero Group; and Ambassador Philip Reeker, Frank Giordano welcoming National Organization of Italian U.S. Consul General in Milan; American Women (NOIAW) Senator Renato Turano, Italian founder Dr. Aileen Riotto Sirey. Senate; and Antonella Parigi, “We feel blessed to have head of culture and tourism of NIAF Vice Chair Patricia de Stacy Harrison had a classic Italian American the Piemonte Region. and NIAF Executive Vice President John upbringing,” said the Russo Special events and F. Calvelli introducing a video on NIAF’s brothers, accepting their honor extraordinary dinners for NIAF Italian American Relief Fund and announcing a new NIAF leadership and VIPs filled grant program, The Russo out the entire weekend. NIAF shots; La Famiglia DelGrosso's DelGiudice Brothers Italian American University offered forums, “Meatball Martinis,” and many Andy Film Forum, to fund young demonstrations, films and others. filmmakers. “We stand on the lectures, from pasta and ge- Friday night officially shoulders of our parents and lato making to genealogy and kicked off the entire Gala Week- NIAF Chairman Joseph V. Del Raso their parents.” filmmaking. end with a lively Variety Show, Between honoree speech- Saturday’s signature Expo cocktails and dancing. 1,500 guests. NIAF Celebrity es, Italian singer Alma Manera Italia drew more than 3,000 The Gala Awards Dinner Ambassador Joe Piscopo and and World Champion accordi- people to what is the largest drew to a close honoring out- NIAF President John M. Viola onist Cory Pesaturo performed Italian festival in the Nation’s going NIAF Chairman Joseph co-hosted the evening’s pro- as guests enjoyed an elegant Capital, highlighted by David V. Del Raso before guests gram which recognized NIAF’s dinner of Barolo risotto cakes Greco of Mike’s Deli in the moved to the Weekend’s tradi- 2016 distinguished honorees: with eggplant strips, Barolo Bronx serving complimentary tional finale, the late-night rev- TV and film directors Joe braised beef with roasted po- Italian foods; Cibo Italia’s elry, singing and dancing of the and Anthony Russo; National tatoes and carrots, and Barolo meats and cheeses; beer Gala’s famed After Hours Party. Football League Hall of Famer wine from Piemonte. samples from Peroni; Chazz There’s nothing like a NIAF Franco Harris; Executive Vice Among the notable Palminteri’s BIVI Sicilian Vodka Anniversary Gala Weekend! WWW.NIAF.ORG Chairman and CEO of Wal- attendees were actor Sebas- greens Boots Alliance Stefano tian Stan; Congressman Tom To view more photographs from the NIAF 41st Anniversary Gala Weekend, visit www.niaf.org. Pessina; legendary Italian Marino; Former Congress- To order prints, go to https://dgdcphotography.shootproof.com/gallery/NIAF-41st-Gala/.

74 Ambassador Don Oldenburg 37505_Magazine.indd 75 Honoree GiuseppeLavazza Giovanna GuarinoandGaiaCeccaroli Vasilisa Catalfamo,ChiaraDelfini, and Dr. JohnP. Rosa Board membersJosephD.Lonardo Viola, FrancescaMilingi,withNIAF Sally Valenti,NIAFPresidentJohnM. VIP Honorees JoeandAnthonyRusso

Reception

Don Oldenburg Honoree StefanoPessina Don Oldenburg All SectionPhotosbyAndyDelGiudice and JimHalpim and KarenCaiazzowithKandicePelletier NIAF BoardmemberNicholasR.Caiazzo Chair FrankGiordano member andGalaWeekend Pininfarina andNIAFBoard man andengineerPaolo Torino-based business- Honoree MariaFrancaFerreroacceptsbyvideofromItaly NIAF BoardmembershonoringChairmanJosephV. DelRaso Andy DelGiudice Giordano andIlariaMacchi Drs. MinaMassaro- Zarrelli andLeslieZarelli NIAF BoardmemberMichaelJ. Franco Harris Honoree

VIP Receptionattractedguests The popularphotobackdropatthe Andy DelGiudice Dr. Aileen Honoree Riotto Sirey

Rockova Lisa SalibellowithJohnKozupandVeronica NIAF ViceChairSalvatoreM.Salibello and Don Oldenburg Quando, Quando” his classic“Quando, Tony Renissinging Honoree

Don Oldenburg work incentralItaly funds forearthquakerelief thanking NIAFforraising Armando Varricchio Italy’s Ambassador member PeterJ.Arduini Arduini andNIAFBoard Kimberly Arduini,Allessandra Insider Ambassador 11/25/16 3:56 PM 75 WWW.NIAF.ORG Insider Photos on this page by Don Oldenburg except where noted

VIP Dinner at Decatur House

On Thursday evening, October 13, NIAF Board and Italian American Leadership Council (IALC) members, and VIPs, attended a reception and dinner hosted by the White House Historical Association at the Decatur House a block from the White House.

Singer Deana Martin, daughter of legend Dean Martin, with husband John Griffeth; actor Tony Lo Bianco with wife Alyse; and singer Lena Prima, daughter of the legendary Louis Prima, with husband and bassist Tim Fahey

NIAF Executive Vice President John F. Calvelli with NIAF Board members Anita Bevacqua McBride and NIAF Chairman Joseph V. Del Raso with his Joseph R. Guccione Guests tour historic Decatur House built in 1818. mother Dolores and wife Anne.

NIAF University

Throughout the day on Friday and extending into Saturday of the Gala Weekend, numerous NIAF University lectures, demonstrations and films, all open to the public, allowed guests to learn more about their heritage and culture. Among the events: book discussion Clockwise from above: Gelato 101 with of “We the Italians” with master gelato maker Gianluigi Dellaccio; author Umberto Muc- pasta cooking demonstration with ci; film screenings of author and chef Domenica Marchetti; “The Neighborhood that Explore Your Italian Roots lecture with Disappeared” and “When genealogist and PBS-TV “Genealogy the World Answered: Flor- Roadshow” host Mary Tedesco; ence, Women Artists and Filmmaking Workshop and Forum with the 1966 Flood”; the NIAF TV and film directors Anthony and Joe on Campus Conference; Russo; an Italian lesson with the Italian the NIAF – Ieri, Oggi, Cultural Society of Washington D.C. Domani Forum on the Fu- ture of Little Italys; Women Leaders in Advanced Can- cer Research symposium Andy DelGiudice

WWW.NIAF.ORG with NIAF Board member Dr. Antonio Giordano; and the Forum on Dual Citizenship.

76 Ambassador

37505_Magazine.indd 76 11/25/16 3:56 PM Insider NIAF Board Members at Villa Firenze and Café Milano On Friday evening, October 14, following a cocktail reception at Villa Firenze, official residence of the Italian Ambassador in Washington, NIAF Board members and VIPs enjoyed dinner at

Georgetown’s famed Café Milano. Photos by Don Oldenburg Former Major League Baseball players Kenneth J. Aspromonte, a NIAF Board member, Tony and Alyse Lo Bianco with Franco Harris and NIAF Treasurer and MLB Hall of Famer Mike Piazza Robert E. Carlucci and wife Aileen Carlucci

NIAF Board members Joseph R. NIAF Board members Linda R. Guccione and Louis E. Tosi with NIAF Vice Chair Patricia de Stacy NIAF Board member Paolo Catalfamo, his wife Carlozzi and Joseph M. Della Giuseppe Lavazza (center) Harrison and Claudia Valente Vasilisa, and NIAF General Counsel Arthur J. Furia Ratta with Deana Martin (center)

Friday Night Gala Kick-off Celebration! Photos by Andy DelGiudice except where noted On Friday, October 14, the ballroom of the legendary Louis Prima, and her doors opened at 9 p.m. for NIAF’s Gala high-energy New Orleans-based band, Kickoff Variety Show, featuring a late performed swing ballads and her fa- evening of music, dancing, cocktails and ther’s jazz that got guests on their to the carousing. Always entertaining emcee dancefloor. Deana Martin, daughter of Joe Piscopo sang his favorite Sinatra the great Dean Martin, joined in as well. songs, and even broke out his guitar And, at the end of the evening, Mickela later to play some Springsteen, all along Mallozzi of the PBS TV show “Bare Feet with The Radio King Orchestra. Comedi- with Mickela Mallozzi” lured partygoers an Joe Matarese did an Italian American back to a crowded dancefloor for an stand-up act. The Lena Prima, daughter amazing group dance of the tarantella! Emcee Joe Piscopo sings Sinatra

The Radio King Orchestra kept the beat

all night. Don Oldenburg

Mickela Mallozzi gets the crowd dancing

Kevin & Lená Burns enjoying the show

World Champion accordionist Cory Pesaturo Joe Piscopo joins

in with Lena Prima WWW.NIAF.ORG and her band.

Ambassador 77

37505_Magazine.indd 77 11/25/16 3:57 PM 37505_Magazine.indd 78 78 WWW.NIAF.ORG Ambassador they’re alltrue…mostly. Thisyear’s wasarevelry nottobemissed! that usherstheSaturday And nightGalawellintoSundaymorning. The Gala After HoursPartyLivesOn! the finestofrides Maserati ofArlingtonbrought given Shroud, blessedbytheArchbishop ofTurin ments viewingthefull-scalereplica oftheHoly the GalaWeekend, guests couldfindquietmo- gratis shots;andmanyothers.Andthroughout Chazz Palminteri’s BIVISicilianVodka pouring Ferrero distributinghundreds ofsamplesweets; of chocolates,finewines,andotherdelicacies; from theRegionofPiemontegivingsamples hundreds espresso; Via Umbriafrom Geortgownbringing and cheeses;LaVazza Cafédolingoutfresh Foods handingoutsamplesofItalianmeats were Peroni serving samples of Italian beer; Cibo attendees. Amongthemanyfabulousvendors again, afree Italianlunchtohundreds ofhungry plementary Italiancomfortfoodsandserved, Greco ofMike’s Deli,intheBronx, brought com- festival drew more than3,000guests!David vibrant amarketplace!Onceagain,oursignature the Nation’s Capitalisabigger, more funormore calendar fornextyear!NootherItalianfestivalin Festive ExpoItalia! You mayhaveheard talesoftheinfamousAfterHoursParty Mark theSaturday ExpoItalianaonyour toNIAFthissummer. ofporchetta sandwiches;businesses Insider

Don Oldenburg

and cheeses Cibo ItaliaslicingItalianmeats Don Oldenburg After HourPartyrevelers Singer-Songwriter CiroDiLorenzo fuels theAfterHoursPartywith

and

Italian Americansounds

Don Oldenburg at theExpo David GrecoofMike’s Delimakingmozzarella Don Oldenburg DelGrosso booth. one oftheExpo’s bighits,the“MeatballMartini,”at NIAF PresidentJohnM.ViolaandMichaelDelGrossotoast

test itsfirst-classaccommodations! Alitalia, Italy’s favoriteairlines,letguests Andy DelGiudice

delighted attendees. Valentino eiBaleras,“TheItalianSwingStyleBand,” All Galaweekend,theItalianacousticquartetRudy Andy DelGiudice

Mike’s Deliservesfreelunchtohundreds! Andy DelGiudice Mint Pros’JoeQuaglianowithMikePiazza 11/25/16 3:57 PM

Photos by Andy DelGiudice Don Oldenburg NIAF at NYC Columbus Day Parade! MARK YOUR Calendar On October 10, NIAF again participated in New York City’s NIAF is offering the following special events in the coming months. famous, nationally televised, Columbus Day Parade, with a lively For more information, visit niaf.org. float packed full of NIAF Board members, members, and staff traveling the traditional Fifth Avenue route. The crisp yet sunny weather was a beautiful backdrop to celebrate Columbus Day and DECEMBER 2016 JANUARY 2017 Italian American heritage, with more than 100 groups, bands and Applications Available for Deadline for the 2017 NIAF floats, 35,000 marchers, and nearly 1 million spectators! 2017 NIAF Ambassador Ambassador Peter F. Secchia Peter F. Secchia Voyage Voyage of Discovery of Discovery Program Program Applications Apply online at Date: January 31 www.niaf.org/voyageofdiscovery Time: 11:59 p.m. EST Deadline: January 31, 2017 Contact: Gabriella Mileti at Contact: Gabriella Mileti at 202-939-3116 or [email protected] 202-939-3116 or [email protected] MARCH 2017 NIAF Scholarship Applications Deadline for the 2017-2018 available for 2017-2018 NIAF Scholarships Applications Dolores Alfieri Dolores Alfieri Online at Date: March 1 Clovkwise from top: Sofia www.niaf.org/scholarships Alfieri and Zachary Time: 11:59 p.m. EST Date: December 1 Blumenstyk; Those aboard Contact: Julia Streisfeld at the NIAF float waved Italian Dolores Alfieri Contact: Julia Streisfeld at 202-939-3114 or and American flags and 202-939-3114 or [email protected] jubilantly sang along to [email protected] Italian American classics NIAF New York Spring Gala as spectators joined in IALC Member Event – Date: March 22 all along the parade; Washington Capitals vs. Time: 6:30 p.m. Cocktail Reception; Boston Bruins NIAF Board member Anita 7:30 p.m. Dinner Bevacqua McBride with Date: December 7 Time: 8 p.m. Location: Cipriani 42nd Street, her daughter, Giovanna, Location: Verizon Center, 110 East 42nd Street, New York, N.Y. on NIAF’s float. 601 F Street NW, Washington, D.C. Contact: Jerry Jones at Contact: Alex Benedetto at 202-939-3102 or [email protected] 202-939-3117 or NIAF Italian American Museum Exhibit [email protected] NOVEMBER 2017 NIAF 42nd Anniversary Awards During the Gala Weekend, NIAF’s Museum Fellows curated NIAF-Frank J. Guarini Gala Weekend a temporary exhibit of items selected from the Foundation’s larger Public Policy Forum Location: The Washington Marriott permanent collection at NIAF’s headquarters. Date: December 12 Photos by Andy DelGiudice / DGDC Photography Details forthcoming Wardman Park Hotel Contact: Lisa Femia at Date: November 3 and 4 202-939-3120 or [email protected] Contact: Jerry Jones at 202-939-3102 or [email protected] NIAF Open House Christmas Party at Foundation’s Headquarters Date: December 14 Time: 6 to 9 p.m. Contact: Andrea Bartlett at 202- 939-3118 or [email protected]

The Gala display attracted the curiosity and interest of many guests with historical and rare artifacts such as: (top) NIAF artifacts such as notes from the first meeting where NIAF was created, the first newsletter, membership brochure, awards,

etc.; (left) posters from NIAF predecessors such as the Ameri- WWW.NIAF.ORG can-Italian Anti-Defamation League (Frank Sinatra, chairman) and the Italian American Civil Rights League; and (right) two wall-size antique flags from the early 1900s.

Ambassador 79

37505_Magazine.indd 79 11/25/16 3:57 PM Gulasc h c rli on ede p an o C le n t Italy’s 20 a REGIONAL

CUISINES 1 2 3 4

5

CROSSWORD Italian cuisine is noted for its regional diversity. How many of Italy’s 6 7

regions can you identify 8

by their culinary style 9 10

and popular dishes? 11 12

13 14 15 16

17 18 Pe s to a l l a

G e Spa n ghe o tti

v a 19

e lla

s c

e a P r or b ch o e n tt a a

r

a

20

by Leon J. Radomile www.leonradomile.com ACROSS DOWN garlic, anchovies, mixed olive oil and Solution 7 Draws as heavily from its Germanic roots as 1 Its specialties, such as Spaghetti alla butter. Insalata di carne cruda it does from its Italian heritage, resulting carbonara, Coda alla Vaccinara, (braised 10 The first dish most people would say in a unique blend of the two cuisines. Pizza oxtail), and Gnocchi alla Romana, are known is a hallmark of this region would be

and pasta are as likely to be on the menu as throughout the world. Risotto alla Milanese.

Sardegna

sauerkraut. Popular dish: Canederli 2 The most famous of this region’s meats 11 Known since ancient times for its Lu- 17 Abruzzo

9 Known as a composite of sophisticated Vene- features a three inch Porterhouse steak, mar- ganega sausage. Pesce alla Marinara 15 Campania 14

Veneto tian food; influences from the Austrian/Slavic inated simply in olive oil and garlic, grilled 12 The cuisine from this region is regard- 12

Calabria cultures and Fruilian peasant fare. Popular: over hot coals, until medium rare. Bistecca ed as exotic and exciting. Its recipes 11

Lombardia Gulasch con polenta alla Fiorentina often call for seafood. When it comes 10

Piemonte

13 Although this region’s cuisine is Italian, over the 3 Fava beans are used to make hearty soups to wine, think Soave, Bardolino and 8

Molise

course of two millennia, a variety gastronomic seasoned with pork rinds and rosemary. This Pinot Grigio. Polenta Pastizada 6

Puglia,

influences include Greek, Spanish, French and region is also the home of the Perugina Baci‎. 14 Its unpretentious pizza is usually 5

d'Aosta Valle

Arab contributions. Pasta con le sarde Pollo in Potacchio either pizza marinara, topped with 4

Umbria

16 Brodetto, or fish soup, may contain any 4 French, Swiss and Piemonte influence has tomato, garlic and oil, or pizza 3

Toscana

number of types of fish and is often seasoned created its cuisine, an entirely unique set of margherita with tomato, basil and 2 Lazio

with vinegar, garlic or saffron, and thickened dishes, despite being the smallest region in mozzarella. Ziti al Ragù 1 DOWN

with flour. Maccheroncini Italy. Minestra di castagne e riso 15 Many meals from this region begin with

Basilicata 18 Its unique sauce blends basil with extra vir- 5 The region’s location between two Seas ensures a pasta course like Maccheroni alla 20

gin olive oil, pine nuts, garlic and Parmigiano a steady supply of seafood. Oysters and mussels chitarra. Other recipes feature fresh Romagna

Emilia-

Reggiano, and is used in pasta, soups or rice are the preferred shellfish, but octopus, squid, seafood from the Adriatic. Porchetta 19

Liguria

dishes. Pesto alla Genovese sea urchins and fish dishes are renowned 17 The heart of this region’s cooking is 18

Marche

19 Best known for its prosciutto and the “king throughout the peninsula. Polpi arricciati said to be the humble meals of the 16

Sicilia 13

of cheese,” Parmigiano Reggiano. Tortellini 6 Like Abruzzo, this region’s recipes often peasants, primarily roasted and pre- Dreamstime.com

|

Pasticciati all Bolognese contain hot peppers affectionately referred to served meats, aged cheese and wines. Giulia

Venezia Friuli

20 The cuisine of this Italian region remains as diavolino, or little devil. Pezatta Their cooks are masters of cooking 9 WWW.NIAF.ORG Adige

a rural one, deeply anchored in peasant 8 Known for its antipasti, its famous bagna over the open flame. Herbs and woods Baranski Trentino-Alto 7

Michal traditions. Mutton and lamb are the favorite càuda begins the meal with pieces of raw are used in the flame to flavor the ACROSS meats. Pignata di pecora vegetables served with a heated sauce of food. Bistecchine di Cinghiale Map:

80 Ambassador Map: Michal Baranski | Dreamstime.com 37505_Magazine.indd 3 Ferrero proudly supports congratulates and Foundation Franca Maria Mrs. Ferrero of all and the2016 National The Honorees. Gala NIAF Italian American

11/25/16 3:57 PM Ambassador National Italian American Foundation 1860 19th Street NW Washington, DC 20009-5501

202-387-0600

37505_Magazine.indd 4 11/25/16 3:57 PM