Vinoetceterajune 2020 MAGAZINE | WINE | TRAVEL | COMMUNITY | FOOD | TRENDS
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vinoetceteraJUNE 2020 MAGAZINE | WINE | TRAVEL | COMMUNITY | FOOD | TRENDS WE’LL ALWAYS HAVE FRANCE EDITORIAL MASTER PIECE Bordeaux, Bergerac, Wine in the Time of Covid Beaujolais | Name a Jane Masters MW is Opimian’s Master of Wine Covid-19 has turned lives and livelihoods upside Better Trio! down. Countries have been in varying degrees of Zoé Cappe, Editor-in-Chief lockdown. Shops selling essential items are open with social distancing measures in place, and online shopping cannot keep up with demand. In most cases restaurants and bars, which usually represent a large proportion of wine sales, are shut. Nature cannot be put on hold. At the start of lockdown, the Southern Hemisphere was in harvest mode with grapes being picked in Australia, New Zealand, Chile, Argentina and South Africa. Although social distancing measures were imposed, These three French regions are, of the impact on grapes and wine production course, known for their incredible wines, has been limited. In the Northern Hemisphere, the growing their fabulous cuisine and their gorgeous cycle proceeds with vineyards sprouting and the usual landscapes. It may be some time before concerns about spring frosts. The workforce is reduced as we’re able to travel to France, but at workers stay at home to look after children or to self-isolate. least we can transport ourselves there Lockdown has severely restricted transport and wine through the pictures and words of Vino shipments from regions such as northern Italy. Etcetera and the wines of this Cellar Offering. More wine is being bought for home consumption and online Unfortunately, the effects of the coronavirus pandemic on the wine sales have grown. For online businesses, the difficulty wine trade are going to have repercussions for years to come. has been in accommodating the increased numbers without More so now than ever before, Opimian’s winemakers around crashing their websites. However, this increase in home the world will depend on our wine orders for the health of consumption in no way compensates for sales lost from closed their businesses and, indeed, their vines. restaurants and bars. The International Organisation of Vine In this issue, find out what brother-and-sister team and Wine (OIV) estimated that the impact on sales of European Sandrine and Jean-Christophe Darriet are currently wines could lead to a 50% reduction in revenues this year. The drinking, and try your hand at a typical Bordeaux meal with average price paid by consumers for a bottle of wine has chef Romain Gruson from Montreal’s ITHQ. Not sure how decreased—probably due to people concerned about their to pick a wine? Knowing what to look for on a label is a finances and being more careful with their spending. Wine good start—learn about it in our Wine Tips. Travel with us businesses and vineyards will be affected by reductions in virtually to the vast Bordeaux region, discover the lesser- turnover, margins and profit. known Bergerac and taste Gamay from Beaujolais. The financial impact on wineries will vary depending on their Enjoy, and read responsibly! customer base. Those heavily dependent on the restaurant VINOETCETERA MAGAZINE Publisher Opimian Wine Club de vin Opimian does its part In the interest of eco design, Editor-in-Chief Zoé Cappe this magazine is printed on Domtar Lynx Offset paper, Art Director Jenny Schumacher allowing us to make a responsible environmental choice without sacrificing quality or performance, Contributors Joao Barrote, Kim-Tien Huynh, David Lieber, Jenny Schumacher with a minimum of 10% post-consumer recycled content. It is acid-free and FSC® certified. Cover Photo Place de la Bourse, Bordeaux Printed by Imprimerie L’Empreinte 2 | vinoetcetera | JUNE 2020 MASTER PIECE Wine in the Time of Covid Jane Masters MW is Opimian’s Master of Wine trade and/or cellar door sales will suffer most. I heard of one ingrained or will we revert? When restaurants and bars reopen, French winery that had not sold a single bottle in over a there is likely to be some measure of social distancing leading month. Wineries that have distribution through alternative to fewer customers. How many venues can make a profit with channels are in a stronger position. That is, unless a half the number of customers? Even when “normalcy” returns, government bans all sales of alcohol, as is the case in South we will not drink all the wine that was not consumed during Africa. At the time of writing, not only are South African lockdown. This business is lost and there will be a glut of wine. wineries contending with harvest and social distancing, no Some consumers will remain cautious about going out once wine sales are permitted, either at home or abroad. No sales lockdowns are over, while others are planning on living life to means no revenue and no cash flow, making it difficult to pay the fullest once allowed. If there is a world recession, then overhead and staff, potentially leading to layoffs. This in a customers that do go out are likely to be more careful with their country where unemployment and poverty are already high money—all leading to reduced trade. and where there is no welfare security net. Many live in Wine has brought communities together for millennia. Wine cramped township conditions where social distancing is nigh provides valuable jobs and contributes to the culture and economy on impossible. It’s no wonder there have been some in regions where it is made. In France alone there are 85,000 incidences of looting in Cape Town. vignerons (winemakers). For many of us, wine is an important part The lockdown is having a positive impact on the environment, of a lifestyle that improves our quality of life. For me, having a with lower pollution levels leading to cleaner, better quality air cellar of wines to drink has certainly made the lockdown easier! and water in many places. This means that for the first time in Online interactions, virtual tastings and wine events have 30 years the Himalayas can be seen from 100 miles away; in mushroomed during Covid-19, so I know I am not the only one. Venice the water is crystal clear and fish are seen swimming My wish is that for millennia to come, delicious, high-quality around; and birdsong and clear blue skies have been noted in wines will continue to be made and enjoyed around the world, London. This is evidence of the negative impact humanity and that these wines will be made sustainably. In the short inflicts on a daily basis on the environment, as well as on term, times will be hard, and some wine producers and human health and well-being. Recent reports show a companies may disappear. But wine producers tend to be a correlation between air pollution and the regions with the pretty resilient lot, used to dealing with what Mother Nature highest incidences of deaths from Covid-19. throws at them. As wine drinkers, we can support them as There remains a huge amount of uncertainty about when they grapple with the current situation, apply environmental lockdowns will be lifted in various areas and on what terms. lessons learnt and address longer-term existential issues due When it does, will recent trends in shopping habits become to climate change by enjoying a regular tipple. vinoetcetera | JUNE 2020 | 3 Q&A The Darriet Siblings Vignobles Darriet Jean-Christophe Darriet is an engineer who went back to his winemaking roots in 1999 and became general manager of Vignobles Darriet in 2008, a vineyard dating back to 1798. His younger sister Sandrine also returned to the family estate in 1999 after a career in chemical engineering. She holds a Master’s degree in Wine and Spirits. 11. WHAT UP-AND-COMING WINE REGION WOULD YOU RECOMMEND TRAVELING TO? WHY? 1. WHAT DOES YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH S: Wine offers us a special way to OPIMIAN MEAN TO YOU? communicate with people. It is what I S: I would recommend visiting the Opimian is just a fabulous way to love! Creating harmony with far away Stellenbosch region in South Africa, connect with Canadian consumers. cultures and different people. where I worked 20 years ago. The We try to offer Opimian our best values, freshness of a Hermanus Sauvignon 6. WHICH WINEMAKING TRADITIONS, IF our best wines and our new releases. Blanc tasted close to the Indian Ocean ANY, ARE MOST IMPORTANT TO YOU? while surrounded by a beautiful, natural 2. WHEN DID YOU REALIZE THAT The noble late-harvest process: high landscape and animals is something PRODUCING WINE WAS YOUR PASSION? risk to produce the best results, with you will never forget. Our father used to involve us in the high aromatic quality. harvest, and we helped out when the 12. YOUR FAVOURITE BOOK OR MOVIE? 7. WHAT IS THE BEST WINE YOU HAVE estate was very busy. For us, the harvest EVER TASTED? J-C: The Japanese Manga Marriage “The was a big celebration; we kept this joyful Drops of God Final Arc” by Tadashi Agi. Château d’Yquem 1990 - Sauternes. time in our memories and still love it S: The Man Who Planted Trees by today. 8. WHAT ARE YOU DOING WHEN YOU’RE Fréderik Back (a Canadian film!) NOT MAKING WINE OR GROWING GRAPES? 3. WHICH OF YOUR CURRENT WINES ARE 13. WHO IS A PERSON YOU ADMIRE? YOU THE MOST EXCITED ABOUT? J-C: Sailing my boat in the Bassin d’Arcachon. Nelson Mandela. Definitely the Loupiac. We are fascinated S: Taking care of my family and visiting by the miracle that is nature. This wine is 14.