The Great War Cycling Trail in Artois Winds Its Despite the Heavy Shelling and Fierce Fighting
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NORTHERN FRANCE 16 SITES The Great to visit War Cycling Trail in Artois CYCLE GUIDE The first French attack, the First Battle of Artois out a remarkably well-prepared lightning strike The Great War (17–19 December 1914), was a failure and on Vimy Ridge, taking the position at a cost of cost the lives of 8,000 poilus. After the Second 3,600 lives. This success had a profound effect Battle of Artois (9 May–25 June 1915) the on the Canadians back home and was a defining Cycling Trail in Artois French started calling Notre-Dame-de-Lorette moment in the budding nation’s history. la colline sanglante (the bloody hill). They took The First World War in Artois Lorette Spur but failed to reach Vimy Ridge The Great War Cycling Trail in Artois winds its despite the heavy shelling and fierce fighting. way through a landscape that shows few scars The rim of the Artois plateau that lies 10 km In October 1914, during the “Race to the Sea” In total 40,000 French soldiers were killed and of the devastation once inflicted upon it. The north of Arras was a strategically important which preceded the war in the trenches, the 64,000 wounded for the gain of twenty square trees have been replanted, the trenches have position throughout the First World War. Lorette Germans managed to seize the high ground kilometres. German losses amounted to 75,000 been filled in, the battlefields ploughed, and the Spur (165 m) and Vimy Ridge (145 m) overlook along the Western Front and occupy the coal men either killed, wounded or taken prisoner. villages rebuilt. The Commonwealth, French and Gohelle Plain and the Pas-de-Calais coal basin basin. This forced the Allies to carry out a number The expected breakthrough did not happen. The German military cemeteries and memorials that which, in 1912, accounted for half of all the coal of offensives to try and win back these dominant Third Battle of Artois (25 September–14 October can be visited today were built in the 1920s to produced in France. Coal was the dominant positions which were rapidly fortified by the 1915) also ended in failure. replace the numerous temporary cemeteries of energy source at that time. Germans. In February 1916 the British Army took over the the Front. They symbolize the horrific tragedy Artois Front to relieve the French who had been that was the First World War. A tragedy that saw sent to Verdun to repel the German attack taking the death of millions of young soldiers, victims of place there. In April 1917 the Canadians carried industrial firepower. S. Dhote We hope your tour will be both enjoyable and safe. Please remember to: • espect R the peaceful atmosphere of the sites and behave in accordance with the rules because they are places of remembrance and contemplation. • ake M sure you have a lock because bicycles are not allowed on to the sites. • espect R the fragile wildlife and do not drop litter on the trails. • bey O the rules of the road. • e B careful because the trails are also open to other users such as pedestrians, horses, cars, motorbikes, and other vehicles. • ear W a helmet and a high-visibility jacket for your own safety. 2 French National Cemetery at La Targette and La Targette British Cemetery. 3 French National War Cemetery at Notre-Dame-de-Lorette Notre-Dame-de-Lorette1 Hill was already an important place of pilgrimage before the start of the First P. Frutier World War. As early as the seventeenth century a painter from Ablain-Saint- “Lorette, a sinister name that evokes Nazaire erected an oratory on the hill Notre-Dame-de-Lorette Monument places of horror and terror, gloomy in gratitude to the Virgin Mary who he Association and its Guard of Honour woods, sunken lanes, plateaux and believed had healed him at the shrine ravines that have been retaken twenty of Loreto in Italy. The painter’s oratory The Notre-Dame-de-Lorette Monument Association was times and where, for many months, day created in September 1920. It was renamed in 1997 as and night, we slit throats and slaughtered was destroyed in the Revolution. A unceasingly to turn this corner of the chapel was built on the site to replace The Notre-Dame-de-Lorette Monument and Ossuary Guard of Honour Association. earth into a mass grave.” The first pilgrimage to Notre-Dame-de-Lorette in 1919. The it but this too was destroyed, in the The guard was set up in 1925 by a group describing Louis BARTHAS Coll. AD PDC ruins of Ablain-Saint-Nazaire can be seen in the background. shelling of 1914 and 1915. themselves as the “faithful servants of Notre-Dame- “ Les carnets de guerre de Louis BARTHAS, tonnelier, 1914-1918 ”, Paris, éd. François de-Lorette”. On 5 October 1914, German troops established themselves on Notre-Dame-de-Lorette Hill. Maspero, 1978. By 1928 a daily guard was present in the necropolis Its dominating position 165 metres above sea level gave the possessor a clear tactical from Easter till 11 November. Today the Association has advantage. Along with Vimy Ridge, Lorette Hill provided the Germans with an unhindered 4,000 members. The Guards of Honour can be recognized “Lorette Hill appears to be just one view of the region of Arras and this enabled them to control the entire coal basin. The village by their red, white and blue arm bands and the special point in the immense battlefield of Souchez, also occupied and fortified by the German Army, constituted the low position of badge on their berets. that stretched from the Swiss border this stranglehold over the coalfields. From October 1914 till the end of 1915, Lorette Hill was to the shores of the North Sea. So the scene of numerous clashes between French and German soldiers. Casualties during this why does this point, more than any period were probably as high as 100,000. other, deserve to be recognized? Today Lorette Hill is home to the largest of the French Because it was here that took place one of the longest, the bloodiest, military cemeteries. More than 40,000 French soldiers were and the most tragic conflicts of the buried there, including 22,000 unknown soldiers in eight Great War. It lasted from October ossuaries. The dead were brought to Lorette from more 1914 to January 1916. I am sure that The statue of General Maistre than 150 cemeteries close to the front in Artois, Flanders, no other [conflict] could rival it in Initially erected inside the cemetery, this statue was unveiled on Yser and on the Belgian coast. A Romano-Byzantine basilica duration!” 27 May 1927 to pay tribute to both General Maistre and the men was erected in the grounds in 1921. It was designed by the From the speech given by général of the 21st Army Corps. General Maistre (1858-1922) commanded Lille architect Louis-Marie Cordonnier, as was the lantern MAISTRE on Notre-Dame-de-Lorette France’s 21st Army Corps from mid-November 1914 till the end of tower which stands opposite. The light atop the tower Hill, 12 September 1920 December 1915 in the sectors of Lorette, Givenchy and Aix-Noulette. represents the eternal flame. The statue depicts a respected military chief who is clearly sensitive to the sufferings of his soldiers. 4 S. Dhote Monument to the glory Souchez Main Square of General Barbot’s division Accès préférable en voiture Captured in October 1914, the village of Souchez remained in German hands for nearly a year until it was retaken by the French on 25 September 1915. By the end of the war the2 village had 3 been reduced to ruins. The huge task of clearing up the rubble began in 1919. Only 66% of the civil population had returned by November 1921 and these were housed in temporary shelters. War damage compensation paid for the rebuilding of Souchez. The village also received aid from This monument was unveiled in May 1937. the London district of Kensington. Works to rebuild the church, which is home to some handsome It pays tribute to the commander of the stained-glass windows, began in 1928. A war memorial was raised on the edge of the main square, 77th Alpine Division who was mortally near the Town Hall, in memory of the men of Souchez who were killed in the fighting. It also wounded by shrapnel on 10 May 1915 displays the names of the civilians who were killed in 1914 and 1915, including one who had been somewhere between Carency and shot by the occupiers. Uncovered during Cabaret Rouge. the reconstruction, the plinth of the old General Barbot was very popular with sandstone cross is one of the few pre-1914 “In fact, we haven’t left the plain—the vast, seared his men and was known affectionately relics still visible in the village. It stands and barren plain—and yet we are indeed in as the “Saviour of Arras” because of on the corner of rue Pasteur and rue Curie. Souchez! The village has disappeared. I have never the stiff resistance he showed the seen a village disappear so completely. Ablain- German Army in the outskirts of Saint-Nazaire and Carency still look like a place, the city in October 1914. His grave with their smashed and ruined houses, and yards heaped high with rubble and tiles. Here among on Notre-Dame-de-Lorette Hill is the mutilated trees—surrounding us in the ghostly marked with a white cross, just fog—everything is shapeless.