Today, Barboursville’s “downtown” (right) features the Nichols Gallery Annex, the DOWN HOME SERIES Nichols Studio, Sun’s Traces Gallery, the community post office and Masonic Lodge.

Again in the year 2005, we’re making Centreville 66 our way around the region, each McGaheysvilleMcGaheysville Barboursville issue visiting a small town and meeting Barboursville AT A GLANCE... some of the folks who make up 95 PPoort Royal POPULATION: Barboursville 81 the heart of electric co-op country. Charlottesville Post Office serves 4,025. 64 64 On this year’s last Richmond BelleBelle Haven Paint Bank LAND AREA: Barboursville has stop, we’ll be ... Roanoke 460 no formal boundaries. 81 HHuurt 85 Surry BigBig Stone Gap 77 95 INCORPORATED: : Part of Boydton Orange County, Barboursville is unincorporated. ELEVATION: 510 feet. DOWN HOME IN FUN FACT: Barboursville is the birthplace of Zachary Taylor, the BARBOURSVILLE 12th president of the U.S. by Jeff Poole, Contributing Writer

or people traveling through central Orange County. Gianni Zonin planted and Thomas Jefferson (Monticello). Bar- Virginia, Barboursville is pretty much grapes and during the next three decades, bour’s home was built in a neoclassical F on the way to wherever they’re going. Barboursville cultivated a rich blend of Jefferson design that strikingly resembled Intersected east and west by Route 33 and arts and culture and reaped the benefits of the more famous home to the south in north and south by Route 20, Barboursville rural tourism. nearby Albemarle County. has long been recognized as a stop on the Barboursville is named for former According to local historian and author way — whichever that way was. Virginia governor, statesman and diplomat Ann Miller, at its completion in 1822, But something happened about 30 James Barbour, who lived among the Barboursville was the most elaborate plan- years ago that woke up the charming, rural rolling hills between influential neighbors tation in the county, valued at $20,000, community at the western end of historic and friends James Madison (Montpelier) twice as much as Madison’s Montpelier.

36 Cooperative Living/November-December 2005 E L O O P F F E J F O Y S E T R U O C S O T O H P

In the years following the Civil War, Mark Johnson is active in the rural community. nearby Gordonsville remained the commer- He’s a member of the fire company, president of cial center of the county. But toward the end the Ruritan Club and represents Barboursville of the 19th century, local railroad companies and the surrounding area on the Orange County Board of Supervisors. sought a more direct connection from Frederick and Beth Nichols work in the cou- Charlottesville to Orange and found a viable ple’s Barboursville studio. Nichols’ silkscreen route through Barboursville and Somerset. As traffic increased along the Rocking- prints, watercolors and oil paintings capture the Bypassing Gordonsville suddenly shifted the ham Turnpike (now Spotswood Trail, beauty and depth of landscapes throughout commercial balance in the county toward Route 33) Barboursville became a popu- the region. Orange, with Somerset and Barboursville as lar stop on the new rail line. With the immediate beneficiaries, according to Frank trade formerly bound for Gordonsville But the depot closed and traffic found Walker, author of Remembering: A History of suddenly stopping in Barboursville, the faster, more direct routes with Interstate Orange County. small crossroads community became a 64, a four-lane Route 29 and the Route modest commercial center. That prosperi- 250 bypass. In his design of Barbour’s residence, Jefferson ty lasted into the mid-20th century, when “Charlottesville got the depot and the employed an architectural signature that now Barboursville suddenly became a victim crossroads,” Nichols notes. “By the 1970s symbolizes this estate — a central, octagonal par- of highway construction. Barboursville was a dying town.” lor the vineyard honors with the label of its pre- “Barboursville had been a boomtown,” Left behind were empty storefronts, mier wine, Octagon. Barbour’s home, once con- says Beth Nichols, of Nichols Gallery in vacant buildings and little hope. sidered the finest in the county, is a local historical “downtown” Barboursville. “It had the rail- In 1976 Zonin, president of the largest site (left) and home of the Four County Players’ road depot and was right at the intersection private wine company in Italy, visited summer Shakespeare at the Ruins series. of Route 20 and Route 33.” Jefferson’s Monticello while touring the November-December 2005/www.co-opliving.com 37 arboursville is best experienced over Hart musical Babes in Arms will take to the stage a weekend. That provides visitors weekends March 10 through April 2. The com- B enough time to enjoy all it has to offer pany’s summer Shakespeare at the Ruins series is from wine, to art, to the fabulous food at a fantastic way to spend an evening under the Palladio Restaurant. stars at the nearby Barboursville Ruins at the First, check the calendar. Make sure the Barboursville Vineyards. Call (540) 832-5355 weekend is one that features a performance or visit www.fourcp.org. by the Four County Players, the community Long before they attend the play, visitors will theater group based in Barboursville. The want to sample the award-winning wines at troupe presents popular Broadway plays Horton, Barboursville and Burnley Vineyards. All and musicals in a restored schoolhouse in are located within a few minutes of each other. the heart of Barboursville. Performances are Horton features world-class wines made scheduled Saturdays and Sundays. from the Viognier grape, a French grape that In December, the Players will present The seemed ideally suited to Virginia’s climate. Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe. Tours and tastings are available seven days a Weekend performances are scheduled Dec. week from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Call (800) 829- 2-18. In the spring, the classic Rodgers and 4633 or visit www.hvwine.com.

Barboursville Vineyards’ tasting room is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Winery tours are available Saturday and Sunday from 12-4 p.m. . .

. or by appointment. Visitors can also see the historic and scenic ruins of Gov. James Barbour’s home. O

G Burnley Vineyards is a family winery in near- by Albemarle County. From April through U December, the winery is open daily from 11 a.m. O

Y to 5 p.m. From January through March, the win-

F ery is available for tastings Friday through I

area. During his visit, he learned of wineries throughout central Virginia and “Barboursville hung in there and got Jefferson’s unsuccessful, but repeated slowly, Barboursville’s renaissance began. through the tough times.” attempts to grow European grapes in cen- As the grapes grew, so did Barbours- By hanging in there, Barboursville discov- tral Virginia’s soils. ville’s appeal. ered its identity. No longer simply a trans- Zonin purchased the remains of the “There was a lot less happening then,” portation crossroads, Barboursville became a original Barboursville plantation to estab- Paschina admits. “But we were already on crossroads of art, culture and community. lish a winery in the United States. The fire- a path of tourism from Montpelier to Like many communities throughout ravaged remains of the plantation’s original Monticello. By producing a high-quality Virginia, Barboursville is an area, not an house were part of the purchase and wine, we were able to create greater visibil- incorporated town. It has a “town center” became the trademark of Barboursville ity and generate that attention.” that includes the popular D’s Market con- Vineyards — the first commercial winery in Soon, Barboursville became a destina- venience store, the Barboursville Ruritan the region. tion again. Building, the Four County Players’ “Thirty years ago, that was something “A lot of small towns shrivel up and Playhouse, the Barboursville Community new,” Barboursville Vineyards’ General wither away,” says Mark Johnson of Park and the Barboursville Volunteer Fire Manager and Winemaker Luca Paschina Johnson Tire. Johnson serves as the chair- Company. Barboursville’s “downtown” says. “I’m sure somebody had a good man of the Orange County Board of features the Nichols Gallery, Sun’s Traces laugh about it.” Supervisors and represents the county’s Gallery, the Masonic Lodge and the post But Zonin’s vision opened the door to western district, including Barboursville. office. A historic freed-slave community —

38 Cooperative Living/November-December 2005 Monday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Call (540) 832- 2828 or visit www.burnleywines.com. Between winery stops, visitors should offer their palates a break and their eyes and senses a visual treat. Nichols Galleries include the gallery, studio and printmaking workshop of landscape artist Frederick Nichols. Nichols’ silkscreen prints, watercolors and oil paintings capture the beauty and depth of the region’s scenery. The gallery is open Thursday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., and by chance or appointment. Call (888) 994-3733 or go to www.frednichols.com.

No visit to Barboursville is complete without a From left: 1) Barboursville Vineyards cultivates delightful meal at Palladio Restaurant at 150 acres of grapes for production of its world- Barboursville Vineyard. Palladio promises deli- class wines. The estate winery and vineyards cious cuisine paired with world-class wines from are located on 830 acres of beautiful rolling both the Barboursville Vineyards and affiliated hills. 2) Four County Players is Central Virginia’s Italian wineries. Palladio is open for lunch oldest, continuously operating community the- Wednesday through Sunday from 12-3 p.m. ater. The Players have delighted audiences for Reservations are suggested. The restaurant is open more than 25 years. The company hosts its pro- Friday through Saturday for dinner from 6:30- ductions in the former Barboursville School 9:30 p.m. Reservations are required. Call (540) House. 3) In a historic building that once housed the Barboursville Hotel, the Nichols 832-7848 or visit www.barboursvillewine.com. Gallery Annex features the works of the If time permits, visit nearby Montpelier, home region’s finest artists. 4) Stunning stone under- to fourth U.S. President James Madison, the ground cellars, views of the Blue Ridge Gordonsville Exchange Hotel Civil War Mountains, and a wonderful vaulted ceiling Museum, the James Madison Museum and the tasting room are the highlights of Horton historic town of Orange. n Cellars winery (inset: Dennis Horton).

Careytown — and the wineries are just “We all really complement each other,” “More and more people are putting us down the road. Nichols notes. on their list of places to go and things to “There is a nucleus of activity that keeps “It’s unique that there are three winer- do,” Nichols adds. “If one person has a the town going and growing,” Johnson notes. ies just within minutes of each other,” good experience, they’ll tell others. And Between Barboursville Vineyards and says Dennis Horton of Horton Cellars. Barboursville is a unique experience.” nearby Horton Cellars, nearly 100,000 vis- In fact, just west of Barboursville in “There’s no other place in the state itors arrive in Barboursville annually to Albemarle County is Burnley Vineyards. like Barboursville,” says Jason Capelle, sample the fruits of the vine. Thousands “Some people think it’s competition, president of Friends of Barboursville, a more visit the Nichols and Sun’s Traces art but it’s worked out very nicely,” Horton community advocacy group. “It’s got a galleries and even more come to notes. “We have a good relationship with historic African-American community, Barboursville for the impressive communi- each other.” the vineyards and it’s in a national his- ty theater productions presented by the That relationship fuels not only toric district. Barboursville is in position Four County Players. Barboursville’s economy, but the county’s. to take advantage of its tourism industry. Their summer Shakespeare at the Ruins “It’s not just the money we take in,” I see huge potential for Barboursville. I series, hosted annually at the romantic and Horton notes. “A high percentage of think it’s just starting.” scenic remains of Barbour’s home, repre- the people who visit us stay at local When Paschina moved from northern sents a culmination of Barboursville’s histo- bed-and-breakfasts. They buy gas and Italy to Barboursville 16 years ago, peo- ry, agriculture and cultural tradition. shop here.” ple thought he was crazy.

November-December 2005/www.co-opliving.com 39 Barboursville Vineyard cultivates 150 acres of grapes on the former Barboursville Plantation. Barboursville Vineyards General Manager and winemaker Luca Paschina (above, left) came to the winery as a consultant to owner Gianni Zonin (above, right). The Zonin family has been making wine in Italy since 1821. Paschina spent two months in Barboursville and loved it so much he moved there.

“How could you trade the beauty of living in Italy for Barboursville?’” they’d ask. “They don’t realize how beautiful it is and I do.” Even with its steady flow of visitors from across the state, Barboursville has remained true to its roots. “We still have the feel of rural country- side,” Paschina says, “because it’s main- tained by people who are really true to the agricultural aspects of this community.” The art galleries and community the- ater support that as well. “It’s really a unique combination and experience with very historic roots,” he concludes. I

40 Cooperative Living/November-December 2005