Llar de Vivre Angela & Boudewijn’s place

LLAR DE VIVRE 5 Rue de la Tour, 66360 Hameau de Llar/Canaveilles, France Coordinates: 42°31’46.32’’N 2°12’40.63’’E Angela & Boudewijn Vanhuysse [email protected] +33 672 497006

In a Nutshell

Llar has less than ten inhabitants the year round. It forms part of a larger community called Canaveilles, which is about 6km walk away. It is a tiny village that is basically perched on the south facing side of a mountain at an altitude of 1375 metres (4500 ft). Llar has reliable electricity, water and ADSL supply, but no shop or bakery.

Where is it?

Llar is located in the Catalan Regional Natural Park, about half way between Perpignan and the small tax free country of Andorra. The local people around Llar talk about distance in terms of time. For example, if you ask “how far is it to Prades?” the answer would be “about 40 minutes”. Even though distances are not long, such as to Andorra or Ax-Les-Thermes, the area, in the department “Pyrénées Orientales 66”, is mountainous with winding roads. Something to consider when planning trips in the area & estimating your arrival time so you don’t get here the first time in the dark!

WiFi: LlardeVivre Password: LlardeVivre Llar de Vivre Angela & Boudewijn’s place

How to get here?

Llar is not well serviced by public transport, so you will need a car. A regular small car is sufficient, you don’t need a 4x4.

The road up to Llar leaves the N116 at Fontpédrouse... it's a 6km climb on a single lane road up to the village. There are some wider places where vehicles travelling in opposite directions can pass more easily. The etiquette is for the descending party to pull over and stop to allow the ascending vehicle to pass. (It’s easier for the descending driver to see an approaching car). We have found the locals very considerate. This road doesn't have a safety barrier, so it can be a bit scary the first few times. Having said that, there has only ever been one accident on the road, and this happened during its construction many years ago.

When arriving from direction Perpignan it’s difficult to enter the road to Llar because of the turning circle of most cars. We usually u-turn at the car parking further along the N116 in Fontpédrouse (opposite the bus stop) or take a left turn towards Saint- Thomas les Bains and u-turn at the bottom of the hill.

Airports in the region

Perpignan 1½ hours (daily flight from Paris Orly; Ryan Air, has flights to UK and Belgium). Barcelona 3 hours – International Flights Girona 2¾ hours via Perpignan or 5hrs through the mountains Toulouse 4 hours via Perpignan or via Andorra – International Flights Carcassonne 3 hours via Perpignan or via Ax-Les-Thermes (Ryan air has daily flights to the UK and Belgium) Montpellier 3½ hours via Perpignan Narbonne 2½ hours via Perpignan

WiFi: LlardeVivre Password: LlardeVivre Llar de Vivre Angela & Boudewijn’s place

Public Transport

If you are a larger group and are collecting your friends from public transport, then there are a few options to get them closer. From Perpignan there is a regular bus service, “le bus à 1 Euro” (Route 260) to Fontpédrouse (6km drive from Llar village). From Barcelona & Toulouse there is a train to Puigcerdà or La Tor de Querol-Enveig (1hr drive from Llar). It can be possible to catch the Yellow Tourist Train to Fontpédrouse, depending on your timing. Be aware in summer it can be crowded.

Please feel free to ask us for some advice.

You’ve arrived in Llar, now what? When arriving in Llar there is a grassy carpark on the right hand side of the road. Continue 400meters to a small, asphalted parking and turning area near a chapel. You can use this area to unload your car. Be aware not to park at the no parking sign, as this is for vehicles to be able to turn. We request that you use the parking area away from the village to keep your car for any extended periods, especially in the school holiday periods.

The house is located up the small unsealed road called Rue de la Tour. Follow this street for about 70 metres and you walk directly into our entrance gate.

The keys for the house are kept in a coded lock box attached to the wood shelter opposite the front door. For security reasons, the 4 digit code for the keylock changes periodically, so we will give you the code closer to your visit.

WiFi: LlardeVivre Password: LlardeVivre Llar de Vivre Angela & Boudewijn’s place

The layout of the house... who sleeps where?

The ground floor and mezzanine form the ‘living’ areas of the house. The kitchen is well equipped with a steam oven, regular oven, cook top, bread machine, robot mixer (no microwave oven). The dining table comfortably seats 8, and there is plenty of space on the sofa at the mezzanine to spread out.

All the bedrooms are located on the second floor, which is separated by a door at the stairwell. Earlybirds & nightowls will not disturb each other.

We named the bedrooms for what we could best see from the window. The Fossa del Gegant, named after a peak just over the border in Spain, is our main bedroom & ensuite. This bedroom is very open so you really feel the dimensions of the barn in addition to the spectacular views. We have a family of rock swallows nesting at our window for the last four years. Please be aware that this room has no door - we’ve debated putting one, but ultimately we decided not to as it would diminish the flow of the house...

The Carança, named after the spectacular gorge directly opposite the house on the other side of the valley, is an ideal bedroom for children. There is a bunk bed and a sleeping platform accessible using a ladder, as well as a small ensuite bathroom. It’s a comfortable space for up to 4-5 kids, but a more adventurous couple could also use the sleeping platform, as the beds are 160cm wide.

Finally, the Canigou, named after the sacred Catalan mountain is a comfortable, private room for a couple with a king bed and private ensuite.

Garden

We will try to have the grass cut before you arrive. If you are visiting for an extended period, we’ll need to arrange for garden maintenance, so let’s talk about this to find the best solution for you and Florean.

Where to shop – food?

Prades – French food selection - ooh! cheeses!

WiFi: LlardeVivre Password: LlardeVivre Llar de Vivre Angela & Boudewijn’s place

Super U is on the main road (N18). A regular supermarket with good cheeses, vegetables, meat & fish (high rotation with regular fresh deliveries). Good wine selection.

There is a pharmacy in the shopping centre adjacent to Super U

Lidl between Ria and Prades has a high turnover and has a good selection at very reasonable prices.

There is a market on Tuesday and Saturday morning in the centre of Prades for fresh produce, including vegetables, locally produced cheeses, honey, oil…

Puidcerdà – Spanish food selection - good for hams

Carrefour is on the main road from Puigcerdà to Andorra. A regular supermarket with a nice selection of fish, cheese, vegetables. There is a separate building for wines at reasonable prices.

If you’re interested in more exclusive Spanish wines, then it’s absolutely worth a visit to Refilat Vinoteca Carrer Pont de Sant Martí, 3, 17520 Puigcerdà, - they have spanish opening hours, so close for lunch at 13:30 and reopen at 16:00. Give them a call to make sure they’ll be open +34 972 88 31 56 There is an extensive market on Sunday morning in the centre of Puigcerda. We regularly buy our vegetable seedlings there. There are other supermarkets towards the mountains. They cater to tourists and the ski crowd, so the selection is limited & more expensive than Prades & Puigcerda.

There is a very good quality traiteur Charcuterie Bonzom on the main road at Saillagouse.

Bakeries – Bread dries out quickly in Llar, so we prefer to make our own.

WiFi: LlardeVivre Password: LlardeVivre Llar de Vivre Angela & Boudewijn’s place

Where to shop – other things?

Andorra is the place to find a Prada handbag or Chanel coat. Tax free alcohol, low fuel prices, lots of tourists & shoppers. Puigcerdà is largest regional town, a limited selection of shops, but it’s possible to find almost everything you could need. Most shops close at 13:00 and re-open at 16:00. In Font Romeu you can find hiking things like boots, backpacks, socks, etc, and everything for skiing.

What to bring?

Our home is located in the most sunny region in France (which is why the solar research centres are located nearby), but it is a mountain environment, which means it is subject to sudden changes in weather. We are on average 14°C cooler than sea-level, so the average temperature during summer is about 24°C-28°C, with cooler evenings. Make sure you pack something warmer for when the sun goes down.

Swimming costume (for Bains St Thomas you need fitted bathers, shorts are not allowed); sun hat; sunglasses; rain coat (it can, rarely, rain each day in summer – sometimes only for ½ hour)

We’d advise you to stop off at one of the pharmacies on the way up to buy some personal insect repellent. There are effective mosquito nets around all the beds, and screens on the windows, but it’s almost impossible to keep the small determined mosquitoes away at dusk. Mosquitos are very dependant on the climate, so some years we have no problems at all, others we need to be more careful.

WiFi: LlardeVivre Password: LlardeVivre Llar de Vivre Angela & Boudewijn’s place

What we provide

You are on holidays, and although our home is ‘self catering’, that doesn’t mean that you need to bring your salt & pepper!

Kitchen

Paper towels, garbage bags, dishwashing liquid, pot scrubbers, dishwasher tablets, tea towels & pot holders, hand soap.

Salt, pepper, spices, herbs, plain flour, olive oil…

Fire lighters, matches, and of course wood.

Linen

Towels & sheets are all provided, we also have beach towels if you head to St Thomas les Bains, the swimming places in Err or the numerous other swimming places.

Bathrooms

Hairdryer, body soap, shampoo, hand soap, toilet paper, tissues.

WiFi: LlardeVivre Password: LlardeVivre Llar de Vivre Angela & Boudewijn’s place

What to do in the area

Barcelona is 2½ hour drive. We have done a couple of day-trips, but if you are not familiar with the city and particularly if you want to visit some sites, then we recommend that you plan to stay one or two nights on your way here. The same advice goes for Figueres and Gerona, both worth a visit, but a bit far for a day-trip. We buy our olive oil at a cooperative in Espola, near Figueres, definitely worth a side trip if you can squeeze it into your booked luggage.

Shopping in Andorra (1½ hour drive) is good for anyone needing a “city fix”. There are spectacular hikes, and the country is beautiful.

Villefranche de Conflent is a Unesco listed Fortified town. It’s interesting for a short day visit. The yellow train terminal is a short walk from the city walls. We recommend that you combine this with a visit to Abbey St Martin du Canigou. Built in 1009 this monastery is very dramatic. It takes 45 minutes to walk up the winding road from the car park but the views are great. The monastery was abandoned in the 1780’s. It was restored between 1902 and 1932. You can visit the monastery only on a guided tour, usually by a member of the community of the Beatitudes.

Mont Louis is also a Unesco fortification, but unfortunately it does not cater very well to tourists. There is a large hotel/restaurant across the N116 opposite the entrance to Mont Louis, a drink or icecream in their bar is OK, but we do not recommend the restaurant.

Puigcerdà is a nice place to visit for an afternoon. Be aware that in Spain shops close between noon/1pm and 3/4pm (except supermarkets). There is a market on Sunday. At the main place one can find good quality tapas. If you look for a coffee & cake the Xocolates Pirineus is good! If you’re a wine buff, a visit to Refilat Vinoteca to stock up is recommended

Llívia is an enclave of Spain in France. In 1659, the Treaty of the Pyrenees ceded the comarques of Roussillon, Conflent, Capcir, Vallespir, and northern Cerdanya to the French Crown. Llívia did not become part of the Kingdom of France as the treaty stipulated that only villages were to be ceded to France, and Llívia was considered a town. Our favourite restaurant in the area is here at the town square. The Church of Our Lady of the Angels dates from the 1500’s, and is worth the short climb to see it.

WiFi: LlardeVivre Password: LlardeVivre Llar de Vivre Angela & Boudewijn’s place

Hiking & other outdoor activities

There is plenty of hiking in the area, the chemin des canons, which is the historic military passage between the Vauban fortified villages of Villefranche de Conflent and Mont Louis passes through Llar, theré’s even a route mark on the barn!

Please be aware that Llar is in a mountain region, and weather can change rapidly. You need to carry sufficient food, water, warm clothes and sun protection. Mobile telephone reception is either non-existent or sporadic at best.

From Llar itself, you can do many beautiful hikes. There is a good circular walk to Canaveilles, and a path down to Thues-entre-Valls at the mouth of the Gorges de Carança. You can walk to Col de Creu then on to Lac de Matemale. We have walked many times across the valley to join the GR10 near Planes, visit the warm baths at St Thomas les Bains and also to stay in the ecogîte d'étape L’Ori de Planes. It’s relatively easy to combine walking with the yellow train. Our friends & family have varying hiking capabilities, and it’s always nice for the non-walkers to meet-up with the hikers with the train, or by car. You must have a map and navigating skills. Although there are route markings, you should not rely solely on them.

If you’re less inclined to plan your own, there are plenty of popular walks, such as the spectacular Carança gorge, as well as the Canigou. At higher altitudes there is the beautiful alpine area around lac des Bouillouses (there is a bus service in summer and it can be a bit crowded).

Further afield, there are nice walks around Meranges, Spain. We recommend the Hotel Can Borrell for lunch or dinner, but be sure to book! (+34 972 88 00 33). You can also stay, the rooms are simple and a bit dated.

Llar is a mountain bikers heaven. If you want to try, there is Col de Creu e-bike hire. You can ride to Llar, but unfortunately they don’t rent the bikes for multiple days because they need to charge the batteries overnight. We’re beginners, so we found that we spent a lot of time looking at the ground, rather than the scenery. It’s a short season and the e-bikes are quickly redundant; we find it a bit pricey for a family.

WiFi: LlardeVivre Password: LlardeVivre Llar de Vivre Angela & Boudewijn’s place

The Train Jaune was very innovative when it was built in the early 1900’s, being fully electric, and having electromagnetic brakes. The views are spectacular, with numerous bridges, viaducts and tunnels. There’s plenty of time to take in the sites because the train travels about 20km/hr! It’s a nice option for circular hikes. We do find it a bit pricey for a family.

In the summer (mid June to mid September) there is a large family swimming pool at Err with slides and a wave pool (€8.50 per person).

If you want an adrenaline boost, we absolutely recommend throwing yourself into the water slide park at Err. They provide wetsuits & helmets. It’s best to wait until there has been a string of reasonably warm days because the pond you land in is not heated! Take a picnic… it’s hungry work :-). It’s not expensive at €30 for the whole day. We arrive with the grandchildren when they open at 10am and can drag them away absolutely exhausted at 5pm. There is a nice bakery at Err if you need to stock up.

St Thomas les Bains is the closest natural and commercialised hot spring near Llar. Fitted bathers are required (not shorts).

Bains de Llo a bit hotter and more developed than St Thomas. Fitted bathers are required.

WiFi: LlardeVivre Password: LlardeVivre Llar de Vivre Angela & Boudewijn’s place

Restaurants

There are a few choices, but all are at least 45 minutes drive...

La Mirabelle (6 Boulevard Saint Martin du Canigou, 66820 Casteil, France +33 4 30 45 13 41) is absolutely worth the drive. The food is excellent. Be prepared to take your time, the chef is almost alone in the kitchen, but it’s worth the wait! You could easily combine this with a visit to St Martin du Canigou.

Can Ventura (Plaza Mayor, 1, 17527 Llivia, Spain +34 972896178) is our favourite restaurant in the area. Good Catalan food. Gentle service. Old building well preserved. Llivia is an enclave of Spain in France and worth a visit. Dinner only starts at 8pm (it’s Spain after all)

Chez Planes (6 Place Cerdagne, 66800 Saillagouse, France +33 4 68 04 72 08) Serves fine French food in the middle of a small town. A but old fashioned for our taste, but the quality is reliable.

L’Orri de Planes (Cases del Mitg 66210 Planès) is an Eco Gite who cater mainly to walkers on the GR10 (http://www.orrideplanes.com/). They will usually accept dinner only guests if they are not too busy. Marta is a great cook, but there is no choice and no menu – it just depends what they have fresh from their local suppliers. You need to share a table with other guests, which can be very interesting. You absolutely need to call them in advance to reserve. +33 (0) 6 22 32 25 32. You can also hike there on one day, stay the night and walk back the next day.

WiFi: LlardeVivre Password: LlardeVivre