DOCSLIB.ORG

HAUTE COUTURE Autumn/Winter 2015-16 the Couture Show Is a Fantasy Land, an Artist’S Playground

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
HAUTE COUTURE Autumn/Winter 2015-16 the Couture Show Is a Fantasy Land, an Artist’S Playground HAUTE COUTURE Autumn/Winter 2015-16 The Couture show is a fantasy land, an artist’s playground. It doesn’t have to make sense, rationally or economically. It is the opportunity for a designer to show off his technical skills as well as push the limits of his imagination. Like art, it follows the highest bidder philosophy and little wonder then, that the home base for this is Paris. For a fashion expert/enthusiast, it’s an event like no other fashion week will ever be. This is where the experts come out to play, and if you are provided a peek in the haloed circle, the clothes leave you agog. They go beyond the definition of mere covering and are as magnificent on the inside as they are on the outside. A true bespoke experience, it is fussed over by the best tailors, embroiders and seamstresses over painstaking hours to provide the highest quality. New ideas are born; ironically in this archaic tradition of couture houses being restricted by the rules of Syndicale de la Haute Couture, concepts come alive that have lasting impacts over decades. Flapper Dress Baroque Floral Influence On The Fringe Muted Colour Palette Gypsy The Naked Dress Metal Pink Going Green Tulle Velvet Fashion Forward Trends autumn/winter 2015-16 | couture | FFT magazine FLAPPER DRESS BAROQUE 2 2 4 4 3 3 1 1 xtremely sensual, powerful and making headlines this verybody’s favourite era of excess and particularly suited year is sheer. A favourite of the A-lister at red carpets, to Couture, the Baroque period was a conspicuous Ea woman chooses this ensemble when she is looking Ecelebration of artistic sensibilities and flare. Dated to make a statement about her body and celebrate her around 1600 AD in Rome, it was well known for its gold choices. Not one for the camera shy or the subtle elegance, flourishes, its sense of drama, and grandeur in sculpture the sheer dress is a celebrity spawned trend mostly for the painting architecture. Valentino and Dolce & Gabbana have red carpet and is part of a new Americanism that celebrates resurrected this trend a couple of years ago in their fall lines bodies, after athleisure. Way ahead of the curve is Beyonce, but this year the trend has evolved even further. Kim Kardashian and Jennifer Lopez, who have been doing Alberta Ferretti is spot-on with the curvilinear gold details on this for a while and are probably inspirations for heralding it. an opulent fuchsia silk. The embroidery details resemble a lot How it works on the red carpet – strategic embroidery and of architectural tapestry found in the period. Valentino brings sequin are sewn in, made to fit the body and cover up the the gold flourish through his entire collection but in this one in naughty bits and therefore clearly a bespoke experience, particular with gold filigree. Chanel does a dramatic neckline the rest is draped in delicate see-through chiffons, leaving in silver and Ralph and Russo show off their embroidery very little for the imagination. The risqué nature of the attire skills on Satin. Schiaparelli uses fractal symmetry in gold works in an environment where everyone is looking to grab on her ornate jackets but the person who has managed to attention and push the envelope sartorially. communicate the flair and theatricality of the era without any 1 Maison Margiela Alberta Ferretti 1 gold/silver accents is Sergreenko. Simple silhouettes in partial 2 Alexandre Vauthier Schiaparelli 2 sheer, she uses the drama of bold primary colours in red and 3 Chanel blue to create a roman goddess of mystery. Ulyana Sergreenko 3 4 Giambattista Valli Chanel 4 Fashion Forward Trends autumn/winter 2015-16 | couture | FFT magazine FLORAL INFLUENCE ON THE FRINGE 2 2 4 4 3 3 1 1 lowers have been trending since the time of all it the after-effect of Coachella or not but Fringe is Wordsworth; every history and every culture has going to be trending for a while now. revered the beauty of nature and replicated in art, F CA festival favourite, fringe is one of the few trends fashion and music. The novelty here lies in the craft. (denim being the other) that had a reverse ascension, Chanel creates a 3D crushed effect which is delicate and from street style to the runways rather than a trickledown avant-garde at the same time, and seems like reams of effect from the catwalk. Vauthier does it the original way, garlands have been sewn together, but rest assured it’s shredding up leather but using exaggerated volumes to actually fabric. Alexis Mabille uses delicate embroidery and drive the point home. Mabille sophisticates this general natural ombre and Elie Saab uses digital prints on chiffon. cowboy trend by using intricate beading to create layers. Ulyana Sergreenko is stand out, using cut-outs to create Armani goes old school by inferring from the Jazz Age, a floral motif and Giambattista Valli uses delicate thread just a bit to accentuate movement on the bust line. Chanel embroidery. Versace, delicate but still loud in true signature creates tiers with micro fringe and crumpled tulle and style juxtaposes a soft fabric to facilitate the use of a bold Versace adds their own twist but fringing edges of patches palette. to add volume and movement. 1 Valli Armani 1 2 Elie Saab Alexandre Vauthier 2 3 Versace Chanel 3 4 Fendi Versace 4 Fashion Forward Trends autumn/winter 2015-16 | couture | FFT magazine MUTED COLOUR GYPSY PALETTE 2 4 4 2 3 3 1 1 arrying forward the mood from Resort Week, there urther on the bohemian agenda, from fringe to is an increase in use of a muted colour palette complete gypsy – this is not the oft repeated Cacross the board. Hues get diluted and are being Fterm to categorise any ensemble that has come used more and more in their water-colour versions. Sea to describe wanderlust but the representations of real foam green was an earlier example and Giambattista Valli tribes off the West European/Spanish coast and their uses it ingeniously here, Margiela uses a cloud grey, Jarrar sartorial ways. Mabille adds a voluminous twist to the Bouchra does a wisp of a satin dress in pearl but the pinks traditional gypsy skirt, coloured at the bottom of the are in a league of their own. Variations on the colour of the tiers with a cinched waist reminiscent of the corset used year Marsala Mabille uses rose rouge and punch to provide in Spanish costuming. Verasce creates a gypsy goddess options while experimenting in the same bracket. Dior does with same silhouette, just more streamlined in a muted a jacket with exaggerated proportions in blushing peach, purple. Valentino, in his homage to Rome, does a Valli does a tulle version in lemonade pink and Sergreenko version with feather detailing and Zuhair Murad is half does fur in subtle peach. gypsy half Greek goddess, combining the glamour of the sparkle with the nonchalance of a free spirit. It is telling that such restrained colour palette is found at Couture Week, the home of excess, alongside Schiaparelli’s shock pink and is evidence of a toned down sartorial direction where people will start wearing the clothes rather 1 Maison Margiela Zuhair Murad 1 than letting the clothes wear them. 2 Giambattista Valli Valentino 2 3 Dior Elie Saab 3 4 Bouchra Jarrar Atelier Versace 4 136 Fashion Forward Trends autumn/winter 2015-16 | couture | FFT magazine 137 THE NAKED DRESS METAL 2 2 4 4 3 3 1 1 favourite of the A-lister at red carpets, a woman he bling has taken over the world and everyone chooses this ensemble when she is looking to make a wants to shine. Not only do we see metallic elements A statement about her body and celebrate her choices. Tpermeating everything from interiors to apparel to The sheer dress is a celebrity spawned trend mostly for the accessories even jewellery but even themes such as gold, red carpet and is part of a new Americanism that celebrates industrial and metal scraps are increasingly being used in bodies, after athleisure. Way ahead of the curve is Beyonce, installation art. In couture it leaned towards more precious Kim Kardashian and Jennifer Lopez, who have been doing this metals like gold accents and creating a fluid mercurial for a while and are probably inspirations for heralding it. movement in the fabric. How it works on the red carpet – strategic embroidery and Yiqing Yin creates a dulled-gold draped jumpsuit that sequin are sewn in, made to fit the body and cover up the resembles foil and Schiaparelli experiments with both the naughty bits and therefore clearly a bespoke experience, the gilded fitted gown as well as the translucent skirt with a rest is draped in delicate see-through chiffons, leaving very metallic gloss. Stephane Rolland creates a cape using little for the imagination. caged construction in gold, Margiela focuses on iridescence and remarkably translating that in fabric. Louis Azarrao Maison Martin Margiela follows conventional silhouette but creates a stardust finish in his midnight blue gown but the fabric surprises. Mesh construction with wide dimensions, Gaultier takes the cake with his trompe l’oeil pant suit. it is not the most couture-friendly and yet stylish. Sergreenko 1 Schiaparelli uses panels and sheer innovatively, Versace does art deco lines Jean Paul 1 2 Alexander Vauthier and Mabille does ornate lace but Valentino brings it home in Schiaparelli 2 Roman hosiery horizontal details. 3 Elie Saab Fendi 3 4 Ulyana Serjreenko Yiqing Yin 4 138 Fashion Forward Trends autumn/winter 2015-16 | couture | FFT magazine 139 PINK GOING GREEN 2 2 4 4 3 3 1 1 eing rescued from its Barbie and girlie- rom flowers to leaves, green is going to take girl associations, wearing pink is now as over as the colour of the season in the coming Bmuch a political statement as a fashion Fyears.
Load more

Recommended publications
  • O Luxo Na Moda Alta-Costura Entre O Passado E O Futuro
    UNIVERSIDADE DA BEIRA INTERIOR Faculdade de Engenharia Departamento de Ciência e Tecnologia Têxteis O Luxo na Moda Alta-Costura entre o passado e o futuro Rui André Melo de Sousa Dissertação para obtenção do Grau de Mestre em Design de Moda (2º ciclo de estudos) Orientador: Prof. Doutor Rui Alberto Lopes Miguel Coorientadora: Profª. Doutora Catarina Sofia Lourenço Rodrigues Covilhã, outubro de 2015 ii Agradecimentos Esta dissertação resulta de um esforço conjunto de profissionais e instituições, assim gostaria de expressar o meu profundo e sentido agradecimento a todos aqueles que contribuíram para a concretização desta dissertação. Agradeço em primeiro lugar aos meus orientadores, Professor Doutor Rui A. Lopes Miguel e Professora Doutora Catarina S. Lourenço Rodrigues por todo o apoio, esclarecimento e atenção disponibilizada. Gratifico ainda a Universidade da Beira Interior e o Departamento de Ciência e Engenharia Têxteis, pelas instalações, docentes e apoio recebido por parte de todos os funcionários do departamento que, com a experiência, ajudaram no meu crescimento profissional e pessoal. Muito especialmente, aos meus pais, por me terem proporcionado a oportunidade de ingressar no ensino superior e principalmente por toda a força e compreensão proporcionada. A minha avó, irmã e restante família por me terem ajudado direta ou indiretamente dando- me força, coragem e determinação. Aos meus amigos que me acompanharam durante a minha vida académica, à Catarina Marquês por ser uma irmã, à Rita Silva pelo sorriso incansável, à Rita Mendes pelas palavras, ao David Pinto pelo companheirismo, ao Hélio Cabrita pela amizade, à Michelle Reis por ser quem é, e a todos restantes com quem compartilhei bons momentos.
    [Show full text]
  • The Effects of Globalization on the Fashion Industry– Maísa Benatti
    ACKNOLEDGMENTS Thank you my dear parents for raising me in a way that I could travel the world and have experienced different cultures. My main motivation for this dissertation was my curiosity to understand personal and professional connections throughout the world and this curiosity was awakened because of your emotional and financial incentives on letting me live away from home since I was very young. Mae and Ingo, thank you for not measuring efforts for having me in Portugal. I know how hard it was but you´d never said no to anything I needed here. Having you both in my life makes everything so much easier. I love you more than I can ever explain. Pai, your time here in Portugal with me was very important for this masters, thank you so much for showing me that life is not a bed of roses and that I must put a lot of effort on the things to make them happen. I could sew my last collection because of you, your patience and your words saying “if it was easy, it wouldn´t be worth it”. Thank you to my family here in Portugal, Dona Teresinha, Sr. Eurico, Erica, Willian, Felipe, Daniel, Zuleica, Emanuel, Vitória and Artur, for understanding my absences in family gatherings because of the thesis and for always giving me support on anything I need. Dona Teresinha and Sr. Eurico, thank you a million times for helping me so much during this (not easy) year of my life. Thank you for receiving me at your house as if I were your child.
    [Show full text]
  • MASARYKOVA UNIVERZITA Umělecké Ztvárnění Těla
    MASARYKOVA UNIVERZITA PEDAGOGICKÁ FAKULTA Katedra výtvarné výchovy Umělecké ztvárnění těla prostřednictvím oděvu Diplomová práce Brno 2017 Vedoucí práce: Autorka práce: PaedDr. Hana Stadlerová, Ph.D Bc. Markéta Kubátová BIBLIOGRAFICKÝ ZÁZNAM KUBÁTOVÁ, Markéta. Umělecké ztvárnění těla prostřednictvím oděvu. Doprovodný text k praktické diplomové práci. Brno: Masarykova univerzita, Pedagogická fakulta, Katedra výtvarné výchovy, 2017. 93 l. 7 příl. Vedoucí bakalářské práce PaedDr. Hana Stadlerová, Ph.D. Rozsah textu diplomové práce je 63 normostran (116 262 znaků včetně mezer). ANOTACE Ústředním tématem diplomové práce Umělecké ztvárnění těla prostřednictvím oděvu je problematika znalosti lidského těla v módě. V teoretické části práce je nastíněn vývoj anatomických znalostí lidského těla ve výtvarném umění a módě haute couture. Práce rovněž mapuje tvorbu módních návrhářů, kteří se ve svých kolekcích opírají o znalosti lidského těla. Praktická část diplomové práce je realizace autorské oděvní kolekce, sestavené z deseti modelů inspirovaných lidskou kostrou. Ty jsou dále součástí edukačního programu s cílem představit studentům oděv jako jednu z forem umění, jež zprostředkovává lidské tělo, speciálně jeho kostru. KLÍČOVÁ SLOVA Oděv, kolekce, móda, haute couture, anatomie lidského těla, kostra. ANNOTATION The main topic of diploma thesis Artistic rendition of the body through the clothing is the issue of knowledge of the human body in fashion. The theoretical part outlines the development of anatomical knowledge of the human body in art and haute couture fashion. The thesis also presents work of fashion designers who based their fashion collections on knowledge of the human body. The practical part is the realization of the author's clothing collection, made up of ten models inspired by human skeleton.
    [Show full text]
  • 21. Yüzyilda Giyilebilir Sanatin Öncü Moda Tasarimcilari
    idil, 2018, cilt / volume 7, sayı / issue 51 DOI: 10.7816/idil-07-51-13 21. YÜZYILDA GİYİLEBİLİR SANATIN ÖNCÜ MODA TASARIMCILARI Nursen GEYİK DEĞERLİ Nişantaşı Üniversitesi Sanat ve Tasarım Fakültesi nursen.degerli(at)nisantasi.edu.tr ÖZ Anahtar Giyim, insanların doğa şartlarından korunma amacıyla örtünme ihtiyacından doğmuştur. Giyim, kelimeler: 16. yüzyıla kadar gelenekler ile şekillenirken, 17.yüzyılda toplumsal olaylarda baskın rol oynayan Giyilebilir Sanat, orta sınıfın yarattığı moda hareketlerinden etkilenmiştir. 19. yüzyılın ortalarında dikiş makinesinin Moda, icadı ise, giyim endüstrisinin başlangıcı kabul edilir. Aynı dönemde terzilik mesleğinin kurallarını Avangart değiştiren ve çok eleştiri alan İngiliz Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895), tasarladığı giysileri Paris’te kendi moda evinde müşteri grubuna sunan ilk “moda tasarımcısı” olmuştur. “Hazırladığı bel dik- asarımcıları işinin bir yağlı boya tablo değerinde” olduğunu ifade eden ve yaptığı işlere imza atan Worth, kişisel anlatım biçimini yansıttığı tasarım giysilerine sanatsal bir anlam kazandırmıştır. “Artwear” ( veya wearable art-giyilebilir sanat) kelimesi ilk olarak 1970’li yıllarda ortaya çıkmış, 1980’li yıllardan sonra “giyilebilir sanat” moda ve sanat alanlarında yer bulmuştur. Bu makalede; moda ile sanat arasındaki etkileşimler, geçtiğimiz yüzyılda sanat akımlarından etkilenen moda tasarımcıları ve 21. yüzyıl moda tasarımcılarının giyilebilir sanat ürünleri incelenmiştir. 1860’larda el emeğine dayanan üretimi yenid- en canlandırmayı hedefleyen ve seri üretime
    [Show full text]
  • Press Relea Se
    VENDOME SCRIPTUM P RE SS RELEA a Chic City Guide S E THE VERY SYMBOL OF FRENCH SOPHISTICATION and lifestyle, Ladurée is delighted to share its favorite Parisian addresses. In Paris by Ladurée, author Serge Gleizes guides readers to the best that the most elegant city in the world FOR has to offer in cuisine, table decoration, interior design, beauty, fashion, hotels, and culture. IMMEDIATE Divided into four sections—“Cuisine,” “Fashion and Beauty,” “Interior Design,” and “Culture”—this chic, pocket-sized guide includes 200 of the best addresses in Paris, advising where to stay, where to eat, and where to see and be seen. Beautifully illustrated with more than 200 color photographs and illustrations, it is the perfect gift for stylish Parisians and visitors alike. RELEASE ABOUT THE AUTHORS: SERGE GLEIZES is a journalist and former coeditor in chief of AD France. He is a contributor to the architecture and design sections of M (Le Monde) and Ideat, and is the author of a number of books, including Ladurée Inspiration & Decoration (Chêne, 2012), Ladurée Chocolat (Scriptum, 2013), Pierre Frey: Inspiring Interiors (Abrams, 2015), and Bruno Moinard (Abrams, 2016). Gleizes lives in Paris. PIERRE-OLIVIER SIGNE is a travel and live-performance photographer, and cinematographer, who has worked for major media firms such as Disney, Canal Plus, and MTV. He photographed a series of travel guides: Film Lover’s Paris, Guide of Japan in Paris, Guide of Italy in Paris, and Guide of the USA in Paris. Signe lives in Paris. ABOUT LADURÉE: Ladurée, the iconic Parisian patisserie founded in 1862, is home to the world-renowned double macaron, invented by Pierre Desfontaines, grandson of the founder, in 1930.
    [Show full text]
  • Haute Couture FW 11 / 12
    Catwalks & Presentations Paris Couture & Haute couture Fall Winter 11-12 Fashion Week dates : July 04 - July 07 Definitive schedule MONDAY JUNE 06 PRESENTATIONS 3.30pm -> MARTIN RAFFA Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers - 6.30pm 292, rue St Martin - 75003 MONDAY JULY 04 CATWALKS 10.30am ANNE VALÉRIE HASH Hôtel Shangri La Paris - 10, avenue d'Iéna - 75116 11.30am CHRISTOPHE JOSSE Couvent des Cordeliers - 15, rue de l'Ecole de Médecine - 75006 12.30pm BOUCHRA JARRAR Odéon Théâtre de l'Europe - 2, rue Corneille - 75006 2.30pm CHRISTIAN DIOR Musée Rodin - 79, rue de Varenne - 75007 4.00pm GEORGES CHAKRA Palais de la Découverte - av Franklin D Roosevelt - 75008 5.00pm ALEXIS MABILLE Théâtre du Châtelet - 1, place du Châtelet - 75001 6.00pm ADELINE ANDRÉ Hôtel d'Ecquevilly - 60, rue de Turenne - 75003 6.30pm GEORGES HOBEIKA Hôtel Westin - Salon Impérial - 3, rue de Castiglione - 75001 7.00pm XUAN-THU NGUYEN 147, rue du Temple - 75003 7.30pm GIANBATTISTA VALLI Galerie de la Madelaine - 30, rue Boissy d'Anglas - 75008 8.00pm ERIC TIBUSCH PARIS COUTURE Park Hyatt Vendôme - 5, rue de la Paix - 75002 8.30pm IRIS VAN HERPEN Galerie Nikki Diana Marquardt - 9, place des Vosges - 75004 MONDAY JULY 04 PRESENTATIONS 10.00am -> MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Hôtel La Maison Champs Elysées - 12.00pm 8, rue Jean Goujon - 75008 by invitation only TUESDAY JULY 05 CATWALKS 11.00am GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ Théâtre National de Chaillot - 1, place du Trocadéro - 75016 12.30pm MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ Couvent des Cordeliers - 15, rue de l'Ecole de Médecine - 75006 TUESDAY JULY 05
    [Show full text]
  • DOSSIER DE PRESSE Haute Dentelle 09-06-18 06-01-19 4 PRÉSENTATION GÉNÉRALE DE L’EXPOSITION
    DOSSIER DE PRESSE Haute dentelle 09-06-18 06-01-19 4 PRÉSENTATION GÉNÉRALE DE L’EXPOSITION 7 PARCOURS DE L’EXPOSITION 9 SEPT PIÈCES EN DÉTAIL 9 CHANEL 10 YIQING YIN 11 BALENCIAGA 12 VALENTINO 13 SCHIAPARELLI Haute 14 MARTIN MARGIELA 15 ALBERTA FERRETTI 16 CHRISTIAN DIOR 19 UNE HISTOIRE DE LA DENTELLE dentelle EN DIX DATES CLEFS 20 COMMISSARIAT, SCÉNOGRAPHIE ET CATALOGUE DE L’EXPOSITION 21 LA CITÉ DE LA DENTELLE ET DE LA MODE DE CALAIS 22 VISUELS PRESSE 25 PARTENAIRES 26 INFORMATIONS PRATIQUES Image de couverture ContaCt presse © Veste en tweed et jupe en dentelle Leavers à motif floral Agence Observatoire incisée à la main. Collection haute couture printemps-été 2015. Karl Lagerfeld pour CHANEL Aurelie Cadot, + 33 6 80 61 04 17 © CHANEL, photographie Karl Lagerfeld [email protected] elle a souvent nécessité une organisation de travail collective, le travail de plusieurs PRÉSENTATION GÉNÉRALE dentellières étant assemblé pour former une pièce entière. DE L’EXPOSITION La dentelle fabriquée à Calais depuis près de 200 ans est exclusivement mécanique, mais elle s’est d’abord inspirée de la dentelle à la main avant de s’en affranchir. L’exposition Haute Dentelle illustre la place de la dentelle tissée sur métier Leavers Au XIXe siècle, la mécanisation de la production de la dentelle prend son essor dans la mode ultra contemporaine. Les couturiers élisent, au service de leur style, en Angleterre, dans la ville de Nottingham, puis en France à Calais, à Caudry cette étoffe exigeante. L’exposition souligne comment ils expriment cette matière et à Lyon.
    [Show full text]
  • L'influence De La Crise Économique Sur L'industrie De Mode
    Univerzita Palackého v Olomouci Filozofická fakulta Diplomová práce Olomouc 2014 Petra OTÝPKOVÁ II UNIVERSITÉ PALACKY OLOMOUC FACULTÉ DES LETTRES DÉPARTEMENT DES LANGUES ROMANES L’influence de la crise économique sur l’industrie de Mode Magisterská diplomová práce Studijní program: Odborná francouzština pro hospodářskou praxi Vedoucí práce: Doc. Mgr. Jaromír Kadlec, Dr. Autor: Petra Otýpková Olomouc 2014 III Univerzita Palackého v Olomouci Filozofická fakulta Prohlášení Místopřísežně prohlašuji, že jsem diplomovou práci na téma: „Vliv ekonomické krize na módní průmysl“ vypracovala samostatně pod odborným dohledem vedoucího diplomové práce a uvedla jsem veškeré použité podklady a literaturu. Proclamation sur l’honneur Je déclare sur l’honneur que le présent mémoire est le résultat de mon propre travail et que toutes les sources bibliographiques utilisées sont citées. V Olomouci dne………………….. Podpis………………………… IV Contenu Introduction ................................................................................................................... 1 I. L’industrie de Mode .............................................................................................. 3 1.1. Les catégories de l’habillement ..................................................................... 4 1.1.1. L’habillement de protection ................................................................... 4 1.1.2. L’habillement de travail ......................................................................... 5 1.1.3. L’habillement courant ...........................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • International Fashion Exhibition in Tilburg This Autumn
    Press release INTERNATIONAL FASHION EXHIBITION IN TILBURG THIS AUTUMN The Art of Lace | Haute couture from Chanel to Iris van Herpen 16 November 2019 - 10 May 2020 Louis Vuitton From Chanel to Dior to Jean Paul Gaultier, lace has been a source of inspiration for countless prestigious fashion houses. The TextielMuseum is proud to present the international exhibition ‘The Art of Lace | Haute Couture from Chanel to Iris van Herpen’, featuring creations by the world’s most renowned names in fashion. Opening on 16 November, the exhibition portrays the innovative power of French Leavers lace and was previously on show in Calais. The visitor is given a behind- the-scenes look at lacemakers and couturiers: from the design and manufacture to the finished product, ready for the catwalk. The show includes more than 40 one-of-a-kind items by fashion greats Alberta Ferretti, Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Iris van Herpen, Louis Vuitton, Maison Margiela, Schiaparelli and Yiqing Yin. Iris van Herpen Alberta Ferretti Leavers: innovation in lace Woven on a loom, Leavers lace can accommodate the experimental designs of couturiers while also challenging them to the utmost in creating their collections. The fabric looks delicate but is actually quite strong: unlike knitted lace, it does not fray. It can be transparent or opaque, can incorporate varying patterns, materials and colours, and can be woven in 3D. For Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld laminated the lace, allowing the stiffness of the material to accentuate the patterns, while Iris van Herpen is inspired by lace in 3D printing that mimics the effect of this ornate fabric.
    [Show full text]
  • 0 Universidade De São Paulo Escola De Artes, Ciências E
    0 UNIVERSIDADE DE SÃO PAULO ESCOLA DE ARTES, CIÊNCIAS E HUMANIDADES KLEDIR HENRIQUE LOPES SALGADO O LUXO E A ALTA-COSTURA: UMA ANÁLISE SEMIÓTICA São Paulo 2015 1 KLEDIR HENRIQUE LOPES SALGADO O Luxo e a alta-costura: uma análise semiótica Versão corrigida Dissertação apresentada ao Programa de Pós- Graduação em Têxtil e Moda da Escola de Artes de Artes Ciências e Humanidade da Universidade de São Paulo para obtenção do título de Mestre em Ciências. Área de Concentração: Projeto de Têxtil e Moda. Orientadora: Profa. Doutora Cláudia Regina Garcia Vicentini. Versão corrigida contendo as alterações solicitadas pela comissão julgadora em 24 de outubro de 2014. A versão original encontra-se em acervo reservado na Biblioteca da EACH/USP e na Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da USP (BDTD), de acordo com a Resolução CoPGr 6018, de 13 de outubro de 2011. São Paulo 2015 Autorizo a reprodução e divulgação total ou parcial deste trabalho, por qualquer meio convencional ou eletrônico, para fins de estudo e pesquisa, desde que citada a fonte. CATALOGAÇÃO-NA-PUBLICAÇÃO (Universidade de São Paulo. Escola de Artes, Ciências e Humanidades. Biblioteca) Salgado, Kledir Henrique Lopes O luxo e a alta-costura : uma análise semiótica / Kledir Henrique Lopes Salgado ; orientadora, Cláudia Regina Garcia Vicentini. – São Paulo, 2015 150 f. : il. Dissertação (Mestrado em Ciências) - Programa de Pós- Graduação em Têxtil e Moda, Escola de Artes, Ciências e Humanidades, Universidade de São Paulo, em 2014 Versão corrigida 1. Moda. 2. Luxo. 3. Semiótica. I. Vicentini, Cláudia Regina Garcia, orient. II. Título CDD 22.ed. – 391 2 Nome: SALGADO, Kledir Henrique Lopes Título: O luxo e a alta-costura: uma análise semiótica Dissertação apresentada ao Programa de Pós-Graduação em Têxtil e Moda da Escola de Artes de Artes Ciências e Humanidade da Universidade de São Paulo para obtenção do título de Mestre em Ciências.
    [Show full text]
  • Dossier De Presse 2015
    Press kit Festival April 23—27 Exhibitions until May 24 www.villanoailles-hyeres.com Jean-Pierre Blanc General Director of Festival Magalie Guérin Fashion curatorship Maida Grégory-Boina Artistic Director for fashion, set design and scenography for the presentations and the fashion shows The 30th edition of the International Raphaëlle Stopin Photography Art Director Festival of Fashion and Photography at Hyères will take place at the villa Villa Noailles, Hyères Noailles between the 23rd and the communauté d’agglomération th Toulon Provence Méditerranée 27 of April, 2015. The exhibitions Montée Noailles 83400 Hyères th [email protected] will run until the 24 of May. T / 04 98 08 01 98 The festival directed by Press | villa Noailles Philippe Boulet Jean-Pierre Blanc and presided [email protected] over by Didier Grumbach, annually T / 06 82 28 00 47 encourages and supports young Press | Festival artists in the fields of fashion and 2e BUREAU - Sylvie Grumbach photography. Thanks to the support [email protected] T / 01 42 33 93 18 of the festival’s partners, several prizes will be awarded to the Presse | International textile and competing young artists. fashion conferences Registration T / +33 (0)1 42 66 64 44 [email protected] Press | Jimmy Pihet : T / +33 (0)1 42 66 64 44 [email protected] COMPETITION Virginie Viard started work at CHANEL in 1987 where she met Karl Lagerfeld and very quickly became his right-hand woman. After five years the designer took her with him to CHLOE where he was Artistic Director at the time.
    [Show full text]
  • Haute Dentelle” (Designer DENTELLE 6 January 2019 Lace) Exhibition
    Cité de la dentelle After the success of the exhibitions Hubert de Givenchy, Cristóbal Balenciaga, HAUTE et de la mode, Calais Anne Valérie Hash and Iris van Herpen, the Museum of Lace and Fashion in Calais, 9 June 2018 – dedicated to hand-made and mechanical lace, presents the “Haute Dentelle” (Designer DENTELLE 6 January 2019 Lace) exhibition. Candidate for the Exhibition of National Interest label photo Karl Lagerfeld / Haute couture and lace hanel “Haute Dentelle” offers a unique insight into the contemporary uses by fashion designers of lace woven on Leavers looms. Implicitly, exhibition curator Sylvie Marot weaves a unique dialogue between lace houses and fashion houses, revealing behind these exchanges powerful creative propositions. A material of great creative potential First inspired by and then liberated from hand-made lace, mechanical laces have been marrying tradition with innovation for 200 years. Synonymous with delicacy, the feld for Chanel Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2015 Collection © C apparent fragility of the lace is an illusion: its woven texture makes it unravelable. A textile of high technicity, the subject of never-ending design research among lace-makers, lace has never been so multi-faceted. In infinite shades, textures, finishing techniques and embroideries, it may be transparent or opaque, with floral or abstract patterns, light or three-dimensional... to the point of becoming magnificently unrecognizable. Fashion houses VS lace houses Presenting more than sixty dresses from Ensemble with skirt in hand-incised mechanical lace. Karl Lager the latest haute couture and designer prêt-à-porter shows, the exhibition reveals The dozen or so lace houses in the Hauts- Exhibition curation Practical informations lace to be a subject for reflection for fashion de-France region, in which labelled Leavers Sylvie Marot, independent Cité de la dentelle curator.
    [Show full text]