HE MENTION OF SCOTLAND however, utilities are high. and for a multipurpose building brings to mind images of men In a word, the duty is different. which will house the station library wearing kilts, the sound of It’s one of the few places (or and theater. Additionally, bagpipes, the colorful uniforms perhaps, the only place) where a construction has already started of theguard at Edinburgh Castle, Navyman can be ordered where on an auto hobby shop. the beautiful Scottish countryside he will have the opportunity to For the outdoor types, northern or large cities like Glasgow and participate in an archeological Scotland offers good bird hunting, Edinburgh. To others, Scotland “dig.” Excavations now underway plus excellent fresh- and salt-water is the birthplace of their ancestors, at Thurso are attempting to reveal fishing. There are also three golf the land of Robert Bums, or the something about the lifestyle of courses in the area, each charging home of Scotch whisky. the people who inhabited the a mere $6 a year for unlimited play. And, this fascinatingly beautiful area a thousand or more years ago. In addition to operating the country is “home” for a small bowling alley, special services also group of Navymen serving at the Facilities offers a ceramics shop and a photo Naval Radio Station at Thurso. lab. Sightseeing trips and tours to The station, located just a few THERE is a Navy Exchange and the continent are available through miles from Thurso-which is 319 commissaryon the station the office and are usually offered miles from Edinburgh and offering a limited assortment of at reduced rates. A weekly military Scotland’s northernmost town-sits merchandise and housewives have logistics flight, with space on a hill and overlooks the lush, found they do most of their available seating, departs from green rolling hills of the shopping inlocal stores. Items not Wick Airport-about 25 miles from surrounding countryside. There are found in the Thurso area can be thk station-for those going on few trees in this area of Scotland; ordered through either the holiday or leave. consequently, the land* is used exchange or from stateside A married man, accompanied by for pastures for sheep and cattle. retail outlets. dependents, has a two-year tour The 92-man Thurso station, Because the station is small and while a single man has an 18- which opened on 3 Jan 1964, does not have a dependents’ month tour of duty at the station. is a small part of a massive school, grade school children must As if all the above isn’t enough, communications complex, the attend local schools. High school Thurso duty is considered a sea Defense Communications System. students can enroll in the U.S. tour for rotation purposes. The systemlinks Navy, Air Force, Air Force High School at and Army communications Lakenheath,England; they are Area Rich in Historical Interest facilities together with the NATO flown home for holidays and communications system. school vacations. T’S NOT EVERY PERSON who can Additionally, Thurso provides a The only medical facility on the I say history took place inhis wide range of services to U. S. station is a small sick bay which backyard, but sailors attached at ships operating in the North has a corpsman assigned. Patients Thurso could make such a boast. Atlantic and North Sea areas, as who cannot be treated by the There’s evidence that prehistoric well as to British and other corpsman are referred to a local man and more “modem” people- NATO ships. civilian doctor who works for the from the 12th century-existed on Navy on a part-time basis. There the land now used by the Duty at Thurso are a couple of hospitals in the American communication facility. area for patients requiring use of UPONARRIVING at Thurso, each these facilities. The Navy EAR THE SEASIDE CLIFFS at the married man is allowed corpsman also arranges radio station are two ancient up to 60 days’ temporary living appointmentswith a Thurso structures-one achapel with allowance. The area offersmany dentist for station personnel. adjoining graveyard, and the hotels and guesthouses, with othera type of fortification bed-and-breakfast facilities, while EW CONSTRUCTION at the known as a “broch.” the larger hotels offer the full Station is increasing at a rapid The ancient chapel of St. Mary, range of accommodations, and an pace and self-help plays a also known locallyas Crosskirk, abundance of hospitality common prominent role. A recently is believed to have been built to Scotland. completed two-lane bowling alley around 1200 A.D. It’s the oldest Housing in the Thurso area is offers many relaxing hours to church site in the area, and is very limited. There are however, both sailors and dependents. Other preserved as a historic site. 36 naval housing units available. self-help projects involved the The broch, which is an igloo-like Navy housing, which has a one- remodeling of the EM Club, the structure built of stone, dates back to six-month waiting list, is completion of a basketball court, to the first century A.D. This type completely furnished and includes and extending the commissary- of building is found exclusively in laundry facilities. The rent for exchange building. Funds have also the two northernmost counties of civilian housing is reasonable; been approved for BEQ renovation Scotland, and the Orkney and

FEBRUARY 1972 Shetland Islands to the north. There are about 500 brochs within this general area and only a few have been investigated so far. The broch near the radio station is being unearthed now because it is close to cliffs which are being eroded by the sea. It is thought that the sea will eventually reach this area, thus making further archeological exploration impossible. This broch, which dates from between 75 B.C. and 75 A.D., was a round tower about 45 feet high built entirely of stones without any type of mortar. The walls are about 18 feet thick and the interior space about 30 feet in diameter. The fortification was completely enclosed except for a narrow tunnel used as the entrance. After 20 centuries, the remaining walls now stand only 12 feet in height.

INSIDE, Navymen have helped to locate traces of fireplaces and quantities of domestic rubbish including broken pottery, two bronze pins, bone tools, and a finger ring. While excavating the broch, one of the workers fell through the floor, unearthing a cistern within the walls. Immediate right column, top to bottom: The US. NAVRADSTA, Thurso, Scotland, Thurso was the center of Norse offers an excellent view of the Pentland power on the Scottish mainland Firth, and on a clear day the Orkney until the Battle of Largs Islands are visible. A section of Navy (1263 A.D.) between Alexander housing in the town of Thurso, is 111 and Haco, king of Norway. representative of 36 units of three- and The prevailing theory is that the four-bedroom fully furnished houses Thurso broch became too restricted avoilable for eligible personnel. FRT-39 for the people inhabiting it and transmitters are some of the station's tools. Emergency power can be generated at the that an exterior settlement of Thurso transmitter site. Middle column, houses was built. Today these top to bottom: An ancient Scottish broch houses are being excavated with being excavated on the station site reveals the help of Thurso Navymen and, (top) the Passageway which led to small so far, these teams have uncovered houses outside the broch, built when living two human skeletons. Carbon tests conditions became cramped within the are being made in an attempt to fortifications. Traces of fireplaces (middle) and a well along with domestic determine the age of the remains. rubbish and broken pottery were found Dr. Horace Fairhurst, of the when excavation reached the floor of the University of Glasgow's archeology tower built 20 centuries ago. Many of the department, is in charge of the radio station's personnel and dependents Thurso excavations. Workers and have volunteered to help with the excava- sailors at the site-including some tion (bottom) and spend much of their archeological students-are all leisure time at the task. Far right column: volunteers. Many of the Navymen top to bottom: A typical Scottish house from the station have participated occupied by a sailor attached to the radio station; Thurso's main street; the in the dig during their off-duty statue of Sir John Sinclair, First hours. Baronet, who did much for the improvement "Story and photos by of Northern Scottish agriculture, is PHI Bob Woods located in MocDonald Square, Thurso.

16 I FEBRUARY 1972 17