Summit Peak Hoodie Fabric R Equirements

Summit Peak Hoodie Fabric R equirements:

58” width fabric **Additional fabric may be required to match stripes or one way designs. Recommended Fabrics and Notions: Knit Fabric - (Stretch fabric with at least 25% stretch) Sweatshirt Fleece, French Terry, Cotton Lycra, Jersey, Cotton Inter- lock, Poly Blends, Medium-Thick Knits. (Pre-wash your fabric). Ribbing - (Stretch Fabric with 50% stretch) Ribbing, Cotton Lycra, Knits with at least 5% spandex and excellent recovery. (Pre-wash your fabric). Drawstring (Optional) Medium weight Fusible Interfacing (For use with drawstring) 2 eyelets (Optional) 1/4” center Separating Zipper(For zippered hoodie)

Size Chart and Finished Measurements:

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 2 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 3 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 Stretch Gauge:

Tips for Sewing with Knits: • Use a ball point needle or jersey needle in your serger or sewing machine.

• If you’re not using a serger, use a stretch stitch on your sewing machine. It will look like this:

• If your sewing machine doesn’t have a stretch stitch, use the zigzag stitch and lower the width to 1 mm.

• To allow for a greater amount of stretch on your stitch, lower your tension by one number; if you usually have your tension set at a 5, lower it to a 4.

• When sewing with knits it is important to not stretch the fabric as you sew. If you’re experiencing wavy seams, try adjusting your presser foot to a lighter pres- sure.

• When using a serger, set your differential feed to 1.5 with a stitch length of 2.5 for medium weight knits, 1.0 with a 2.0 stitch length for light weight knits and 2.0 with a 3.0 stitch length for thick knits. (All sergers are different, use this as a guide- line.)

• For knits that roll at the edge, press with starch.

• Use Wooly Nylon or stretch thread in the bobbin of your sewing machine for greater stretch and tunneling issues from a double needle. This also works well with a straight stitch for top-stitching, not hemming.

• Use Wooly Nylon or stretch thread in the upper looper of your serger for fabrics with a great amount of stretch.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 4 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 Printing Instructions: To print the pattern, make sure page scaling is set to none and landscape is selected. Print off the page with the 2” test box (page 23) and adjust settings as needed to match size. Print off the rest of the pattern. Tape the pattern together with the numbers in sequence to make this:

Leave page numbers, text, and paper size selected.

When taping the no trim pages together, each page will have a border on the bottom and right side. Overlap the adjoining pages to these bor- ders. There will be a small gap that won’t print.

Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric following the grain. The grain will be the length of your fabric.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 5 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 Cutting the Hoodie: Bodice: • Cut 1 Front piece A on the fold. (Or 2 mirrored pieces for zipped hoodie.) • Cut 2 Front piece B (mirrored image). • Cut 1 Back piece on the fold. • Cut 1 Hood piece on the fold. (Or 2 mirrored pieces for zipped hoodie.) • Cut 2 sleeve pieces (mirrored image). • Cut 2 pocket pieces on the fold (Or 4 pieces not on the fold for zipped hoodie.)

Hood Lining: • Cut 1 Hood piece on the fold. (Or 2 mirrored pieces for zipped hoodie.)

Ribbing: • Cut 2 cuff pieces. • Cut 2 Waistband pieces on the fold. (Or one piece on the fold and 2 with the added width for the zippered hoodie.)

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 6 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 Sewing the Pullover: Seam Allowance is 3/8” unless otherwise stated.

• Place one pocket piece right sides together with the Front Bodice A piece. Stitch in place using 1/4” seam allowance.

• Using the pattern piece, mark the pocket openings with chalk or a marker.

• Then take the other pocket piece and place it right sides together with the Front Bodice B pieces. Stitch together with 1/4” seam allowance.

• Now take the Front Bodice B pieces and turn it so that the pocket is facing right side out.

• With the Bodice A piece laid flat and the wrong side of the pocket facing up, place the Bodice B pieces and pocket right sides together with the Bodice A piece.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 7 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • To place them right sides together, you’ll have to place the Bodice B pieces and pocket inside the Bodice A piece. Align the sides and pock- ets.

• With the pocket pushed out of the way, use the 3/8” seam allowance and sew the side seam. Stop at the pocket opening and make sure to backstitch. The pocket seam allowance will be facing away from the bodice. Repeat with the other side.

• Now with the pocket still pushed away from the bodice, align the bottom bodice pieces. Using 3/8” seam allowance, stitch together below the pocket opening, making sure to backstitch. The Close Up pocket seam allowance should be facing away from the bodice.

• Align the top of the pocket pieces and stitch together, starting and stopping at the side seams. Do not stitch through the bodice.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 8 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • Turn your bodice right side up. Press flat. (Optional, top stitch the princess seams on the bodice).

• Stitch two small lines 1/2” wide, through all layers at the top and bottom of the pocket opening at each side.

• Baste the pocket in place at the bottom of the bodice.

• Take a sleeve piece and place it right sides together with the front bodice (markers are for the back bodice). Stitch in place. Repeat with the other sleeve.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 9 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • Align the opposite side of the sleeve with the back bodice. Match up the markers and stitch in place. Repeat with the other sleeve.

Sewing the Hood: • For grommet application, cut 2 1”x1” squares of fusible interfacing. (I prefer thick interfacing for this). Using the guides on the pattern piece, mark the grommet placement and fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the hood. Repeat with the other side.

• Follow the directions included with your grommets and attach them to the hood pieces. (Only needed for the exterior of the hood, not needed for the lining.)

• Place the hood pieces right sides together and stitch along the top and back of the hood. Repeat with the hood lining.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 10 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • With one hood turned right side out, place it inside the other hood, right sides together.

• Align the pieces and stitch together around the face opening.

• Turn the hood right side out and press the seam flat at the face opening. Using a 1” seam allowance, topstitch around the face opening, creating a casing.

• Align the bottom hood pieces and baste together with 1/4” seam allowance.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 11 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • Take the hood and insert it into the bodice, with the face opening right sides together with the front bodice.

• Align the hood neckline to the bodice neckline. Match the center front and back of the hood to the center front and back of the neckline. Stitch in place. Finishing the Pullover: • Now place your bodice right sides together, aligning at the armpit, and stitch along the length of the sleeve and side of the bodice. Repeat with the other side.

• Take the Bottom Band pieces and place them right sides together. Stitch the short ends together on each side.

• Fold the band wrong sides together lengthwise.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 12 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • Place the band around the bottom of the bodice, raw edges together. Make sure to match the band seams to the bodice side seams. Stitch in place.

• Press the band away from the bodice, with the seam allowance facing towards the bodice. Topstitch in place on the bodice.

• Fold the Cuff piece right sides together widthwise. Stitch along the side.

• Turn the cuff wrong sides together lengthwise, matching up the raw edges.

• Place the cuff right sides together inside one of the sleeves, matching the seams. Stretch to fit and sew in place. Repeat with the other sleeve.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 13 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 Sewing the Zip Up: • Place one pocket piece right sides together with the Front Bodice A piece. Stitch in place using 1/4” seam allowance.

• Using the pattern piece, mark the pocket openings with chalk or a marker.

• Then take another pocket piece and place it right sides together with the Front Bodice B piece. Stitch together with 1/4” seam allowance.

• Place the Front Bodice A and B pieces right sides together with the pocket pieces extending out to the side. Stitch together above and around the pocket piece using 3/8” seam allowance.

• Extend the stitching at the top and bottom of the pocket, stopping and starting at the pocket opening. Make sure to backstitch.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 14 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • Turn your bodice right side up. Press flat. (Optional, top stitch the princess seams on the bodice).

• Stitch two small lines 1/2” wide, through all layers at the top and bottom of the pocket opening at

• Align the pocket edge with the bodice edge and baste in place.

• Take a sleeve piece and place it right sides together with the front bodice (markers are for the back bodice). Stitch in place. Repeat with the other sleeve.

• Align the opposite side of the sleeve with the back bodice. Match up the markers and stitch in place. Repeat with the other sleeve.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 15 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 Sewing the Zippered Hood: • For grommet application, cut 2 1”x1” squares of fusible interfacing. (I prefer thick interfacing for this). Using the guides on the pattern piece, mark the grommet placement and fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the hood. Repeat with the other side.

• Follow the directions included with your grommets and attach them to the hood pieces. (Only needed for the exterior of the hood, not needed for the lining.)

• Place the hood pieces right sides together and stitch along the top and back of the hood. Repeat with the hood lining.

• Now take the exterior hood piece and place it right sides together with the bodice. Align the center back hood to the center back neckline. Stitch in place.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 16 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • Now place your bodice right sides together, aligning at the armpit, and stitch along the length of the sleeve and side of the bodice. Repeat with the other side.

• Take the Bottom Band pieces and place them right sides together. Stitch the short ends together on each side.

• Fold the band wrong sides together lengthwise.

• Place the band around the bottom of the bodice, raw edges together. Make sure to match the band seams to the bodice side seams. Stitch in place.

• Press the band away from the bodice, with the seam allowance facing towards the bodice. Topstitch in place on the bodice

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 17 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 Sewing the Zipper: • Take your zipper and line it up with the front of the bodice. Mark the band seams and neckline seams on both sides of the zipper. This will help the zipper to stay lined up when you’re sewing it.

• Separate the zipper and take the right side of the zipper. Place it right side down onto right side of the front bodice. Align it with the edge. Match up your previous markings and stitch in place. (A glue stick or double sided wonder tape works well to help keep your zipper in place.) The neckline seam allowance needs to be facing towards the hood.

• If your zipper is longer than the needed length, fold it down and away from the bodice.

• (For metal zippers, zipper teeth will need to be removed and the zipper stop replaced.)

• With the zipper still folded, stitch in place and trim off the excess zipper.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 18 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • Repeat with the other side.

• Now take the hood lining piece and place it right sides together with the exterior hood. Fold up the bottom of the hood 3/8” so that it matches the neckline seam. Stitch around the sides and top of the hoods.

• Trim off the corner on each side of the hood, making sure not to clip through the stitching.

• Turn the hood right side out. With the bottom of the hood lining folded under 3/8”, pin the hood lining to the neckline of the wrong side of the bodice. Align the bottom of the lining to meet with the neckline seam. Make sure the neckline seam allowance is also tucked into the inside of the hood. Stitch in place. Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 19 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • Press the hood flat. If you’re not using a drawstring, topstitch all the way around the hood. If you’re using a drawstring, topstitch each side next to the zipper.

• For the drawstring, topstitch a 1” seam allowance around the top of the hood, creating a casing.

• Turn the zipper so that the teeth face towards each other. Press flat and topstitch in place.

Finishing the Zippered Hoodie: • Fold the Cuff piece right sides together widthwise. Stitch along the side.

• Turn the cuff wrong sides together lengthwise, matching up the raw edges.

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 20 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • Place the cuff right sides together inside one of the sleeves, matching the seams. Stretch to fit and sew in place. Repeat with the other sleeve.

And You’re Done! And you’re done! Thank you for purchasing my pattern. If you have any questions email me at [email protected]

Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Pg. 21 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 Glossary: • Backstitch: To stitch in reverse; usually over the beginning and end of a seam to prevent the stitches from becoming loose and fabric pulling apart.

• Baste: To sew with long loose stitches in order to hold something in place temporarily during construction and fitting.

• Bias: A line diagonal to the grain of a fabric; a line at a 45 degree angle to the selvage often uti- lized in the cutng of garments for smoother fittt.

• Clipping: A technique that involves cutng slits into the seam allowance of outward curves to permit the edges of the seam to spread and lie smooth. Take great care not to cut into the seam stitching.

• Dart: A triangular shape sewn onto a flat piece of fabric, allowing the fabric to conform to the contours of the body.

• Edge stitch: Straight stitching very close to the edge of a seam, trim, or outer edge. It secures seam allowances, prevents the edge from stretching, and supports the fabric.

• Fabric Stretch Gauge: The guide printed on the back of the pattern envelope to gauge the appro- priate fabric stretch required for the garment design to fittt properly.

• Fold: The edge formed by doubling the fabric when the selvage edges meet or are parallel.

• Gathering: A long running stitch that is used to pull fabric together to create a smaller surface area of fabric. Applications of the gathering stitch can be found at the waistline, cuffs, yoke, and in the construction of ruffles.

• Hem: A border of a cloth article doubled back and stitched down

• Right Side: The outside or topside of fabric; it is usually softer or smoother.

• Seam Allowance: The amount of fabric between the stitching or seam line and the fabric edge.

• Top stitch: Machine stitches done from the right side of a garment for either a decorative effect or for functional reasons, or sometimes for both at the same time. Top stitching gives a garment a more tailored look.

• Under stitching: A line of straight stitching, either by hand or machine, applied along certain seam lines such as neckline facing seams. Its purpose is to keep the facing and seam allowances laying flat in a particular direction.

• Wrong side: Usually the inside of a garment or the backside of fabric. Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main

Hoodie Front A Cut 1 on Fold Hoodie 3/8” Seam Allowance Front B For Zippered Front Cut 2 (Mirror Image) with Extended Width Cut 2 (Mirror23 Image) 3/8” Seam Allowance ©Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2017 Designs Horizons New by ©Hoodie Hoodie Front A Cut 1 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance For Zippered Front Cut 2 (Mirror Image) with Extended Width 24 ©Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2017 Designs Horizons New by ©Hoodie

Cut HereFor Zippered Front (Not On Fold) Cut 2 Mirror Image PlaceFold on 25 ©Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2017 Designs Horizons New by ©Hoodie 26 ©Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2017 Designs Horizons New by ©Hoodie

18-24m

Grain Line Grain 12-18m

with Width with Extended

For Zippered Front Cut 4 Cut Front Zippered For Hoodie Pocket 2 on Fold Cut 1/4” Allowance Seam

Place on Fold 27on Place Cut Here For Zippered Front (Not On Fold) Cut 4 Mirror Image Mirror 4 Cut Fold) On (Not Front Zippered For Here Cut ©Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2017 Designs Horizons New by ©Hoodie

Grain Line Grain Grain Line Grain

12-18m

18-24m 12-18m

2T 28 18-24m 3T 2T

4T 3T

6 5T

Cut HereFor Zippered Front (Not On Fold) Cut 2 Mirror Image PlaceFold on

Hoodie Place on Fold Place Back Cut 1 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance 29 Line Grain ©Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2017 Designs Horizons New by ©Hoodie

12-18m

18-24m Hoodie Sleeve Cut 2 (Mirror Image) 303/8” Seam Allowance ©Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2017 Designs Horizons New by ©Hoodie Hoodie Sleeve Cut 2 (Mirror Image)

3/8” Seam Allowance 31 Grain Line Grain ©Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2017 Designs Horizons New by ©Hoodie 32 ©Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2017 Designs Horizons New by ©Hoodie 5T 4T

6 5T

7 6

8 7

18-24m

2T 5T

6 3T

7 4T

8 5T

6 10

357 12

8 ©Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2017 Designs Horizons New by ©Hoodie 14 10 36 ©Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2017 Designs Horizons New by ©Hoodie

14 Hoodie Hood Cut 1 on Fold Cut 1 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance37 For Zippered Front Cut 2 (Mirror Image) with Extended Width and 2 Lining with Extended Width ©Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2017 Designs Horizons New by ©Hoodie

7 8

12 16 14 10

2T 3T 4T 5T

12-18m 18-24m

Hoodie Waist band Cut 2 on Fold 3/8” Seam Allowance For Zippered Front Cut 1 on Fold

and 2 with Extended Width Grain Line Grain

Place on Fold Place 38 Cut Here For Zippered Front (Not On Fold) Cut 2 Mirror Image Mirror 2 Cut Fold) On (Not Front Zippered For Here Cut ©Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2017 Designs Horizons New by ©Hoodie

7 8

16 10 12 14

2T 3T 4T 5T

12-18m 18-24m Hoodie Sleeve Cuﬀs Cut 2 3/8” Seam Allowance

16 12

18-24m

12-18m Grain Line Grain

41 on Fold Place Cut Here For Zippered Front (Not On Fold) Cut 2 Mirror Image Mirror 2 Cut Fold) On (Not Front Zippered For Here Cut ©Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2017 Designs Horizons New by ©Hoodie 16 8 10 12 14 6 7 4T 5T 2T 3T 18-24m 4212-18m ©Hoodie by New Horizons Designs 2017 Designs Horizons New by ©Hoodie