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The Dulcie Pinafore

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The Dulcie Pinafore THE DULCIE PINAFORE Designed with autumn layers in mind, Dulcie brings 60s charm to a structured pinafore dress. Throw on a cardigan and a pair of gumboots for a stroll, or layer with a shirt and add heels for the office. Dulcie is a perfect project for intermediate seamstresses or confident beginners looking to up-skill. Original — Sizes 6 to 24, A to D cups Curve — Sizes 16 to 34, C to F cups Dulcie is a structured, button-down pinafore press with a square neckline, semi-fitted A-line skirt, and square in-set pockets. Princess seams provide shaping through the bodice for a smooth fit over the bust and back, and deep, roomy pockets carry all of your daily essentials. The bodice is fully lined for a clean inside finish and optional top-stitching in key areas can add a modern element to an otherwise 60s mod design. Wear Dulcie over light-weight blouses and shirts or fitted knit tops for a warm layered dress. Dulcie works pefectly paired with any of the JLH knit top patterns as well as the Aisling Blouse. Original - Front Original - Back Curve - Front Curve - Back Supplies Suggested Fabrics • Mid-weight woven fashion fabric The Dulcie Pinafore is best suited to mid-weight fabrics with • View 1: 12 x 2cm (3/4”) buttons* some structure. Denim, corduroy, wool, suitings, tweeds and • 32cm x 145cm (12 5/8” x 57 1/8”) approx. rectangle of mammoth flannel will make a great Dulcie Pinafore. lightweight fusible interfacing • Matching and/or contrast thread For the bodice lining, look for light-weight woven fabrics • Pins & fabric scissors such as cotton lawn or voile to help reduce seam allowance • Tape & tracing paper bulk. Note: If you are using a bulky/thick fabric, you may want to cut your second waistband (the one that will sit on the inside of the dress) in a lighter weight fabric to reduce bulky seams. * The bottom 1–2 buttons can be optional. Required Fabric — Extra may be required for pattern/print matching or adding length. 150cm or 60” 115cm or 45” Main Fabric Main Fabric Size 6 to 14 — 1.75 metres or 1.91 yards Size 6 to 14 — 2.25 metres or 2.46 yards Size 16 to 24 — 2 metres or 2.18 yards Size 16 to 24** — 2.5 metres or 2.73 yards Size 26 to 34 — 2.25 metres or 2.46 yards Size 26 to 34** — 3.5 metres or 3.82 yards Lining Fabric Lining Fabric Size 6 to 14 — 0.5 metres or 0.54 yards Size 6 to 14 — 0.75 metres or 0.82 yards Size 16 to 24 — 0.65 metres or 0.71 yards Size 16 to 24 — 0.80 metres or 0.87 yards Size 26 to 34 — 0.60 metres or 0.66 yards Size 26 to 34 — 0.85 metres or 0.93 yards ** Not suitable for fabric with directional print/nap/texture due to waistband circumference and how the pattern piece needs to be laid. 2 Size Charts — This is a multi-sized pattern that includes all sizes in the JLH Original and JLH Curve tables below. There is a crossover of 2 cups (C & D) and 5 sizes (16 to 24) between the JLH Original and JLH Curve Patterns. Original and Curve patterns are based on 2 different blocks; because of this, the shape, ease & proportions of the crossover patterns vary depending on the block used. Always make up a toile to check for correct fit before using your final fabric. JLH Original Size Chart JLH Curve Size Chart Fit, Finding Your Size & Making Pattern Adjustments. The Dulcie Pinafore has a sleek fitted silhouette with enough ease at the bust, waist and hips to comfortably layer light-weight garments underneath. The hips have more wiggle room for comfort and ease of walking. Check both the Size Charts above and the Finished Garment Measurements on pages 5 & 6 to get the best fit for you. Dulcie is drafted for an average height of 170cm or 5’7”. Grading between sizes: If your measurements vary across the sizes, you may want to grade between sizes for a custom fit. Find your corresponding bust, waist and hip sizes and highlight these size points on your pattern so that you can easily locate them when tracing. Lay your tracing paper on top of your pattern and simply connect the two by drawing a gently graded line from one size to the next as you trace. You may find it easier to draw this freehand, or alternatively, use a ruler or French Curve to connect your different sizes. Use the Lengthen/Shorten lines included to adjust the length by cutting through the line by pulling apart by your desired amount and placing some paper underneath, or shorten by overlapping pattern pieces. True up adjusted pattern pieces and you are ready to sew. Seam Allowance Dulcie has a seam allowance included of 1.5cm or 5/8” on all pattern pieces, unless otherwise stated in the instructions. 3 Choosing your Cup/Bodice Size Always choose your Cup Size first! To determine what Cup Size you are, wear supportive undergarments, then keeping your tape measure perpendicular to the floor (make sure it is not dipping at the back), measure both your full bust (the widest part of your bust, all the way around) and your high bust (the upper part of your bust around and under the arm pits). Use the difference between these measurements to determine your approximate cup size: A Cup: 1cm (3/8”) B Cup: 3cm (1 1/4”) C Cup: 5cm (2”) D Cup: 7.5cm (3”) E Cup: 10cm (4”) F Cup: 12.5cm (4 7/8”) e.g. If your full bust is 89cm & your high bust is 84cm: 89 - 84 = a difference of 5cm, and therefore a C cup. Then, to determine your bodice size, find your full bust measurement (or closest to) along your corresponding cup row on the Size Chart on page 3. Use the corresponding Front Bodice pattern piece that matches to your cup size. Finished Garment Measurements JLH Original 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 79.5cm 84.5cm 89.5cm 94.5cm 99.5cm 104.5cm 109.5cm 114.5cm 119.5cm 124.5cm A Cup 31 1/4” 33 1/4” 35 1/4” 37 1/4” 39 1/8” 41 1/8” 43 1/8” 45 1/8” 47” 49” 81.5cm 86.5cm 91.5cm 96.5cm 101.5cm 106.5cm 111.5cm 116.5cm 121.5cm 126.5cm B Cup 32 1/8” 34 1/8” 36” 38” 40” 41 7/8” 43 7/8” 45 7/8” 47 7/8” 49 3/4” 83.5cm 88.5cm 93.5cm 98.5cm 103.5cm 108.5cm 113.5cm 118.5cm 123.5cm 128.5cm C Cup 32 7/8” 34 /8” 36 3/4” 38 3/4” 40 3/4” 42 3/4” 44 5/8” 46 5/8” 48 5/8” 50 5/8” 86cm 91cm 96cm 101cm 106cm 111cm 116cm 121cm 126cm 131cm D Cup 33 7/8” 35 7/8” 37 3/4” 39 3/4” 41 3/4” 43 5/8” 45 5/8” 47 5/8” 49 5/8” 51 5/8” 67cm 72cm 77cm 82cm 87cm 92cm 97cm 102cm 107cm 112cm Waist 26 3/8” 28 3/8” 30 1/4” 32 1/4” 34 1/4” 36 1/4” 38 1/8” 40 1/8” 44 1/8” 44 1/8” 99.5cm 104.5cm 109.5cm 114.5cm 119.5cm 124.5cm 129.5cm 134.5cm 139.5cm 144.5cm Hip 39 1/8” 41 1/8” 43 1/8 45 1/8” 47” 49” 51” 53” 54 7/8” 56 7/8” Skirt 59cm 59cm 59.5cm 60cm 60cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm Length* 23 1/4” 23 1/4” 23 3/8” 23 5/8” 23 5/8” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” JLH Curve 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 109.5cm 114.5cm 119.5cm 124.5cm 129.5cm 134.5cm 139.5cm 144.5cm 149.5cm 154.5cm C Cup 43 1/8” 45 1/8” 47” 49” 51” 53” 54 7/8” 56 7/8” 58 7/8” 60 7/8” 112cm 117cm 122cm 127cm 132cm 137cm 142cm 147cm 152cm 157cm D Cup 44 1/8” 46 1/8” 48” 50” 52” 54” 55 7/8” 57 7/8” 59 7/8” 61 7/8” 114.5cm 119.5cm 124.5cm 129.5cm 134.5cm 139.5cm 144.5cm 149.5cm 154.5cm 159.5cm E Cup 45 1/8” 47 1/8” 49” 51” 53” 54 7/8” 56 7/8” 58 7/8” 60 7/8” 62 7/8” 117cm 122cm 127cm 132cm 137cm 142cm 147cm 152cm 157cm 162cm F Cup 46 1/8” 48” 50” 52” 54” 55 7/8” 57 7/8” 59 7/8” 61 7/8” 63 3/4” 92.5cm 97.5cm 102.5cm 107.5cm 112.5cm 117.5cm 122.5cm 127.5cm 132.5cm 137.5cm Waist 36 3/8” 38 3/8” 40 3/8” 42 1/4” 44 1/4” 46 1/4” 48 1/4” 50 1/8” 52 1/8” 54 1/8” 125cm 130cm 135cm 140cm 145cm 150cm 155cm 160cm 165cm 170cm Hip 49 1/4” 51 1/8” 53 1/8” 55 1/8” 57 1/8” 59” 61” 63” 65” 66 3/8” Skirt 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm Length* 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” * From top of finished waistband to bottom of finished skirt 4 Printing your PDF Pattern at home — A Helpful Guide When printing your pattern PDF make sure you scale to Actual Size or 100% found in your printer settings.
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