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Home , Pinafore, Princess seams

THE DULCIE

Designed with autumn layers in mind, Dulcie brings 60s charm to a structured pinafore . Throw on a and a pair of gumboots for a stroll, or layer with a and add heels for the office.

Dulcie is a perfect project for intermediate seamstresses or confident beginners looking to up-skill.

Original — Sizes 6 to 24, A to D cups Curve — Sizes 16 to 34, C to F cups Dulcie is a structured, -down pinafore press with a square , semi-fitted A-line , and square in-set pockets. provide shaping through the for a smooth fit over the bust and back, and deep, roomy pockets carry all of your daily essentials.

The bodice is fully lined for a clean inside finish and optional -stitching in key areas can add a modern element to an otherwise 60s mod design.

Wear Dulcie over light-weight and or fitted knit tops for a warm layered dress. Dulcie works pefectly paired with any of the JLH knit top patterns as well as the Aisling .

Original - Front Original - Back Curve - Front Curve - Back

Supplies Suggested Fabrics

• Mid-weight woven fabric The Dulcie Pinafore is best suited to mid-weight fabrics with • View 1: 12 x 2cm (3/4”) * some structure. , corduroy, wool, suitings, tweeds and • 32cm x 145cm (12 5/8” x 57 1/8”) approx. rectangle of mammoth flannel will make a great Dulcie Pinafore. lightweight fusible • Matching and/or contrast For the bodice lining, look for light-weight woven fabrics • & fabric such as cotton lawn or voile to help reduce allowance • Tape & bulk.

Note: If you are using a bulky/thick fabric, you may want to your second waistband (the one that will sit on the inside of the dress) in a lighter weight fabric to reduce bulky seams. * The bottom 1–2 buttons can be optional.

Required Fabric — Extra may be required for /print matching or adding length.

150cm or 60” 115cm or 45”

Main Fabric Main Fabric Size 6 to 14 — 1.75 metres or 1.91 yards Size 6 to 14 — 2.25 metres or 2.46 yards Size 16 to 24 — 2 metres or 2.18 yards Size 16 to 24** — 2.5 metres or 2.73 yards Size 26 to 34 — 2.25 metres or 2.46 yards Size 26 to 34** — 3.5 metres or 3.82 yards

Lining Fabric Lining Fabric Size 6 to 14 — 0.5 metres or 0.54 yards Size 6 to 14 — 0.75 metres or 0.82 yards Size 16 to 24 — 0.65 metres or 0.71 yards Size 16 to 24 — 0.80 metres or 0.87 yards Size 26 to 34 — 0.60 metres or 0.66 yards Size 26 to 34 — 0.85 metres or 0.93 yards

** Not suitable for fabric with directional print/nap/texture due to waistband circumference and how the pattern piece needs to be laid.

2 Size Charts — This is a multi-sized pattern that includes all sizes in the JLH Original and JLH Curve tables below.

There is a crossover of 2 cups (C & D) and 5 sizes (16 to 24) between the JLH Original and JLH Curve Patterns. Original and Curve patterns are based on 2 different blocks; because of this, the shape, & proportions of the crossover patterns vary depending on the block used. Always make up a toile to check for correct fit before using your final fabric. JLH Original Size Chart

JLH Curve Size Chart

Fit, Finding Your Size & Making Pattern Adjustments.

The Dulcie Pinafore has a sleek fitted silhouette with enough ease at the bust, and hips to comfortably layer light-weight garments underneath. The hips have more wiggle room for comfort and ease of walking. Check both the Size Charts above and the Finished Garment Measurements on pages 5 & 6 to get the best fit for you.

Dulcie is drafted for an average height of 170cm or 5’7”.

Grading between sizes: If your measurements vary across the sizes, you may want to grade between sizes for a custom fit. Find your corresponding bust, waist and hip sizes and highlight these size points on your pattern so that you can easily locate them when tracing.

Lay your tracing paper on top of your pattern and simply connect the two by drawing a gently graded line from one size to the next as you trace. You may find it easier to draw this freehand, or alternatively, use a ruler or French Curve to connect your different sizes.

Use the Lengthen/Shorten lines included to adjust the length by cutting through the line by pulling apart by your desired amount and placing some paper underneath, or shorten by overlapping pattern pieces. True up adjusted pattern pieces and you are ready to sew.

Seam Allowance Dulcie has a included of 1.5cm or 5/8” on all pattern pieces, unless otherwise stated in the instructions. 3 Choosing your Cup/Bodice Size Always choose your Cup Size first!

To determine what Cup Size you are, wear supportive , then keeping your perpendicular to the floor (make sure it is not dipping at the back), measure both your full bust (the widest part of your bust, all the way around) and your high bust (the upper part of your bust around and under the arm pits).

Use the difference between these measurements to determine your approximate cup size:

A Cup: 1cm (3/8”) B Cup: 3cm (1 1/4”)

C Cup: 5cm (2”) D Cup: 7.5cm (3”)

E Cup: 10cm (4”) F Cup: 12.5cm (4 7/8”) e.g. If your full bust is 89cm & your high bust is 84cm: 89 - 84 = a difference of 5cm, and therefore a C cup.

Then, to determine your bodice size, find your full bust measurement (or closest to) along your corresponding cup row on the Size Chart on page 3. Use the corresponding Front Bodice pattern piece that matches to your cup size.

Finished Garment Measurements JLH Original

6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24

79.5cm 84.5cm 89.5cm 94.5cm 99.5cm 104.5cm 109.5cm 114.5cm 119.5cm 124.5cm A Cup 31 1/4” 33 1/4” 35 1/4” 37 1/4” 39 1/8” 41 1/8” 43 1/8” 45 1/8” 47” 49”

81.5cm 86.5cm 91.5cm 96.5cm 101.5cm 106.5cm 111.5cm 116.5cm 121.5cm 126.5cm B Cup 32 1/8” 34 1/8” 36” 38” 40” 41 7/8” 43 7/8” 45 7/8” 47 7/8” 49 3/4”

83.5cm 88.5cm 93.5cm 98.5cm 103.5cm 108.5cm 113.5cm 118.5cm 123.5cm 128.5cm C Cup 32 7/8” 34 /8” 36 3/4” 38 3/4” 40 3/4” 42 3/4” 44 5/8” 46 5/8” 48 5/8” 50 5/8”

86cm 91cm 96cm 101cm 106cm 111cm 116cm 121cm 126cm 131cm D Cup 33 7/8” 35 7/8” 37 3/4” 39 3/4” 41 3/4” 43 5/8” 45 5/8” 47 5/8” 49 5/8” 51 5/8”

67cm 72cm 77cm 82cm 87cm 92cm 97cm 102cm 107cm 112cm Waist 26 3/8” 28 3/8” 30 1/4” 32 1/4” 34 1/4” 36 1/4” 38 1/8” 40 1/8” 44 1/8” 44 1/8”

99.5cm 104.5cm 109.5cm 114.5cm 119.5cm 124.5cm 129.5cm 134.5cm 139.5cm 144.5cm Hip 39 1/8” 41 1/8” 43 1/8 45 1/8” 47” 49” 51” 53” 54 7/8” 56 7/8”

Skirt 59cm 59cm 59.5cm 60cm 60cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm Length* 23 1/4” 23 1/4” 23 3/8” 23 5/8” 23 5/8” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4”

JLH Curve 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34

109.5cm 114.5cm 119.5cm 124.5cm 129.5cm 134.5cm 139.5cm 144.5cm 149.5cm 154.5cm C Cup 43 1/8” 45 1/8” 47” 49” 51” 53” 54 7/8” 56 7/8” 58 7/8” 60 7/8”

112cm 117cm 122cm 127cm 132cm 137cm 142cm 147cm 152cm 157cm D Cup 44 1/8” 46 1/8” 48” 50” 52” 54” 55 7/8” 57 7/8” 59 7/8” 61 7/8”

114.5cm 119.5cm 124.5cm 129.5cm 134.5cm 139.5cm 144.5cm 149.5cm 154.5cm 159.5cm E Cup 45 1/8” 47 1/8” 49” 51” 53” 54 7/8” 56 7/8” 58 7/8” 60 7/8” 62 7/8”

117cm 122cm 127cm 132cm 137cm 142cm 147cm 152cm 157cm 162cm F Cup 46 1/8” 48” 50” 52” 54” 55 7/8” 57 7/8” 59 7/8” 61 7/8” 63 3/4”

92.5cm 97.5cm 102.5cm 107.5cm 112.5cm 117.5cm 122.5cm 127.5cm 132.5cm 137.5cm Waist 36 3/8” 38 3/8” 40 3/8” 42 1/4” 44 1/4” 46 1/4” 48 1/4” 50 1/8” 52 1/8” 54 1/8”

125cm 130cm 135cm 140cm 145cm 150cm 155cm 160cm 165cm 170cm Hip 49 1/4” 51 1/8” 53 1/8” 55 1/8” 57 1/8” 59” 61” 63” 65” 66 3/8”

Skirt 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm 60.5cm Length* 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4” 23 3/4”

* From top of finished waistband to bottom of finished skirt 4 Printing your PDF Pattern at home ­— A Helpful Guide

When printing your pattern PDF make sure you scale to Actual Size or 100% found in your printer settings.

Before you print out your pattern, make sure you are printing to the right scale by printing out the test box on page 1 of your pattern PDF first. Once your test box is printing to the correct size, go ahead and print out your pattern. Alternatively, if you are only wanting to make up one version at a time, select the page ranges you require in your printer settings.

Which View/size are you making?

You can choose which bust cup and view you are making by viewing the Print Guide on page 1 of your pattern file. Use this guide to also help you piece each pattern section together. ------

The Layers Function The print-at-home Dulcie Pinafore pattern includes the Layers Function, where you can turn on and off various sizes within your pattern — to use this function, you must have Adobe Reader downloaded.

1. Open your pattern in Adobe Reader, you will find a menu bar that runs down the left-hand side of The Dulcie Pinafore the window.

Click the icon that looks like a stack of three pages, a.k.a. the Page icon.

2. The Page icon will open up a bar that contains The Dulcie Pinafore all of the layers of your pattern, and next to each layer will be a small box with an eye inside it.

3. To turn off a layer, simply click the eye icon next to the layer you wish to remove. You can remove any number & combination of layers.

To add them back in, click the same (now empty) box next to them.

You will need to keep the bottom two layers open (Pattern Information + Borders & Page Numbers), otherwise you will remove all necessary pattern information, including your page borders.

------

Once your pattern is printed, you will see that each page is numbered and has a border (if not, check your printer settings). Make sure that the numbers are at the bottom, right-hand side of each piece of paper to ensure you have your printed page up the right way.

Trim or fold borders then tape or glue together (using the Print Guide on page 1 of your pattern file to lay your pages in the right order), making sure to match up pattern lines and borders from each piece to the next.

A0 Print Shop Version Your A0 pattern contains a print test box to ensure it is printed to the correct size. Make sure your print shop prints your pattern to either Scale 100% or Actual Size.

5 Fabric Lay Plans Use the lay plans as a guide when pinning and cutting out your pattern pieces in your fabric. Make sure to pay attention to the grainline included on pattern pieces to ensure a great fit.

Make sure you wash your fashion fabric before cutting out your pattern. This will pre-shrink your fabric so that there are no nasty surprises when you wash your finished garment for the first time. Pay attention to washing instructions as they may be quite specific. Otherwise, wash your fabric on the cycle you would normally wash your garments.

Interfacing

** For Front Bodice interfacing, use pattern H for correct width, then adjust length according to your bodice size.

150cm — Main Fabric 150cm — Main Fabric 150cm — Main Fabric Sizes 6–14 Sizes 16–24 Sizes 26–34

150cm — Lining 150cm — Lining 150cm — Lining Sizes 26–34 Sizes 6–14 Sizes 16–24

6 115cm — Main Fabric 115cm — Main Fabric 115cm — Main Fabric Sizes 6–14 Sizes 16–24 Sizes 26–34

Pockets are cut with fabric open for sizes 26-34.

115cm — Lining Sizes 26–34

115cm — Lining 115cm — Lining Sizes 6–14 Sizes 16–24

* Place pattern piece rightside down on your fabric.

7 Steps

1.5cm (5/8”) seam allowance is included on all pattern pieces unless otherwise stated

Right side of Wrong side of both lining - - Right side of lining - - Interfacing outer fabric and outer fabric

Preparing Facings, Waistband and Front Bodice

1. Using manufacturer’s instructions, fuse interfacing to the wrong side of both skirt facings (H), one waistband piece (E) and down the centre front of the main fabric centre front bodice pieces (A).

Note: Test your interfacing on a scrap of fabric first!

Buttonholes are used throughout these instructions for clarity. They are not inserted until page 15 ‘Inserting ’.

Preparing Bodice

1. Take your main fabric front side bodice pieces (B) and place a line of basting within the seam allowance around the curve where the bust sits. Leave long thread tails.

This will help you ease this piece into your centre front bodice piece — this is especially useful for the larger cup sizes that have a larger curve to ease in, much like a set-in sleeve.

2. Right sides facing each other, place your front side bodice piece (B) on top of your centre front bodice piece (A) matching notches. in place.

You will need to ease the curve from piece B in — using your basting stitches, pull one thread in a gentle — you are gathering the seam allowance though, not the stitching line.

3. Back-tacking at each end, secure together. down seam allowance, clip bust curve and press toward the centre front. Repeat for the other side.

8 4. Repeat the above steps for the main fabric back bodice pieces (C and D) and for the lining pieces (both front and back).

Assembling Bodice

1. Right sides together, place your main fabric front bodice piece on top of your back bodice fabric piece.

2. Back-tacking at each end, secure at the shoulders. Trim down seam allowance and press seams open.

3. Repeat Steps 1 & 2 for the lining pieces.

9 4. Open out both the main fabric and lining and right sides together, place bodice lining on top of the main fabric bodice.

Back-tacking at each end, secure lining to front bodice along the centre fronts, neckline and around the armscyes. (Do not stitch your side seams together at this stage!) Trim down seam allowances and notch corners and curves. Turn bodice right side out and press stitched seams.

Note: You will be pulling your bodice through your shoulder seams, if you’ve used a heavy/thick/stiff fabric, go easy on this and take your time so as not to strain your stitches.

5. With the right side of the bodice facing out, lift up the main fabric front and back bodice so they are right sides together and matching along the sides. Pin this together, matching the underarm seam and continuing down the lining side seam.

6. Back-tacking at each end, stitch the main fabric and lining side seam closed, in one straight line. Trim down seam allowance and press open.

7. Fold main fabric bodice back down so that the right sides of the bodice main fabric and lining are facing out. Press and repeat for the other side.

Optional: Top-stitch around the entire neckline, 3mm (1/8”) away from the stitched edge.

Optional: Repeat top-stitching for the armscye.

Note: If not planning to top-stitch, you may choose to understitch your seam allowances to the bodice lining around the neckline. You will not be able to do this right to the top of the neckline; just go as far as you can.

10 Attaching Waistband to Bodice

1. Open out the bodice along the . With the main fabric side of the bodice facing up, take the interfaced waistband and right side down, place on top of the bodice waistline, matching notches.

Note: The waistband will stick out by 1.5cm (5/8”) on each end.

2. Baste waistband to bodice within the 1.5cm (5/8”) seam allowance. Do not press down at this stage.

3. Turn the bodice around so the lining is facing up. Take the unfaced waistband and right side down, place on top of the bodice waistline, matching notches.

Note: The waistband will stick out by 1.5cm (5/8”) on each end.

4. Permanently stitch both waistbands to the bodice (the bodice will be sandwiched between the two waistbands), back-tacking at each end. Trim down seam allowance and press both waistbands down.

Inserting Skirt Darts

1. Right sides together, match legs together on front and back skirt pieces, pinching out the excess. Press and pin in place.

2. Starting from the raw waistline edge, stitch dart legs together, back-tacking at the start and leaving a long tail at the point. Gently tie the ends of the dart thread together in a knot.

3. Press darts towards the centre.

11 Attaching Skirt Pockets

1. Place one front skirt piece right side facing up. Place pocket on top of the skirt, right side facing down and lining up the square sections of the pocket opening. Back-tacking at each end, attach pocket to skirt at the square opening.

Trim down seam allowance and notch the corner.

2. Press pocket around to the back and place a line of top-stitching around the square opening, 3mm (1/8”) away from the pressed edge.

3. Fold pocket in half along the line indicated on the pattern piece, matching notches to the skirt. Pin in place at the top and sides then sew the bottom of the pocket bag together. Trim down seam allowance and finish raw edge.

4. Baste pocket to skirt along the top waistband and side seam, within the 1.5cm (5/8”) seam allowance.

Repeat for other pocket.

12 Assembling Skirt

1. Right sides together, place front skirt pieces on top of back skirt pieces, matching side seams. Back-tacking at each end, stitch in place.

2. Trim down seam allowance, finish raw edges and press seam to the back.

3. Repeat for the other side.

Attaching Skirt Facings

1. Finish outer edge of skirt facing (H).

2. Right sides together, place front skirt facing (H) along the front edge of the skirt. Back-tacking at each end, stitch facings in place.

3. Trim down seam allowance and press facing all the way around to the inside of the skirt. Baste facings in place along the top of the waistband within the 1.5cm (5/8”) seam allowance.

4. Repeat for other facing.

Optional: Under-stitch seam allowance to skirt facing before basting at the top if you are not planning to top-stitch.

Hemming

1. With the wrong side of the skirt facing you, press facing out flat on both sides of the front skirt . Then press hem up to the wrong side by 5mm (3/16”) all the way around.

Note: This will become a guide to help your raw edge stay under for the following steps, resulting in a clean hem.

2. With the right side of the dress now facing you, press facing all the way around so that the right sides are facing each other at the two front bottom corners (while keeping the hem in place created in step 1).

3. Using a 1.5cm (5/8”) seam allowance, starting from the outside edge and stitching in, secure facing to the dress with a line of stitching. Back- at each end.

4. Remove excess seam allowance from the facing/skirt front only, using the diagram to the right as a guide. Repeat for the other side. 13 5. Press facing back around so wrong sides are facing each other. Poke bottom corners out with something pointy.

6. By pressing the facing back around to the underside, it will naturally bring your skirt hem up with it by 1.5cm (5/8”). Make sure the hem is bought up by an even 1.5cm (5/8”) all the way around and press (keeping the hem from step 1 in place).

7. Secure with a line of stitching all the way around the hem, leaving long thread tails at each end. Pull tails to the underside of the skirt, and knot to secure.

Optional: Place a line of top-stitching down both centre front skirtpieces, 3mm (1/8”) away from the folded edge.

Attaching Bodice to Skirt

1. Open out bodice waistband, flipping the unfaced waistband down and out of the way. Right sides together, place interfaced waistband along skirt waistline, matching notches and seams.

Note: The waistband will stick out by 1.5cm (5/8”) at each end.

2. Back-tacking at each end, attach interfaced waistband to skirt. Grade down waistband seam allowance by approximately 1cm and lightly trim down skirt seam allowance by 5mm or 1/8” max.

3. Press the interfaced waistband and seam allowance up, leaving the unfaced waistband down as in step 1. Your waistbands are now technically right-sides together, though both your bodice and skirt will be sandwiched together within the waistband.

4. Being careful not to catch the skirt and bodice, stitch interfaced and unfaced waistbands together at the side seams. Back-tack at both ends, trim down seam allowances and notch corners.

Note: using a foot for step 4 can be useful. It means you can be accurate with your stitching without catching your bodice. 14 5. Flip the bodice up, turning the unfaced waistband out so the right side is now facing out. Press.

6. With the wrong side of the dress facing up, fold the raw edge seam allowance of the unfaced waistband up into the inside of the waistband by 1.5cm (5/8”).

7. Top-stitch all the way around the waistband 3mm (1/8”) away from the folded edge.

Inserting Buttonholes

1. Using your instructions, insert buttonholes onto the right-hand side of the dress or skirt (as if you are wearing it). Open buttonholes.

OR

Insert snap buttons using the instructions that came with the packet. Make sure the top of the snap is on the right-hand side of the bodice (as if you are wearing it).

Note: You may want to leave the last 1-2 buttons off; this is personal preference though.

15 Attaching Buttons & Finishing — All Views Buttonbands should be overlapped at the front by a total of 4cm (1 1/2”)

You can place a line of pins or basting stitch (indicated by the dashed lines to the right) 4cm (1 1/2”) out from the finished edge on the left-hand side of the dress, and use this to accurately overlap your front pieces.

You can then mark where your buttons should be placed relative to your buttonholes.

Ultimately, buttons should end up positioned 2cm (3/4”) away from the finished edge, lining up with buttonholes.

1. Attach buttons to the left-hand side of the dress/skirt, aligning them with buttonholes and making sure the waistbands, and match.

2. Tie off and trim down any loose threads and press one final time.

16 Sewing Glossary Not sure what some of the terms in the instructions mean? Find out here...

Back-Tack — To secure the start and end of your stitching line, sew in 3–4 stitches, then put your sewing machine in reverse and ‘back-tack’ over those stitches to the start of your stitching line. Then proceed to sew your seam as usual. Do the same to the end of the stitching line.

Fashion Fabric — This is the fabric you are using to make your final garment.

Finish raw edges — For a long-lasting garment, it’s a good idea to finish off the raw edges of your seams. You can do this a number of ways: a) Using a zig zag stitch setting on your machine, stitch around all raw edges. b) Turn your raw edges under by 1/8 inch or 3mm and stitch in place. c) Use around all raw edges. d) Use an overlocker (or serger) on all raw edges. e) Use French Seams. French seams are beautiful seams that enclose the raw edge into the seam allowance. They cannot be used for every raw edge and they can also be bulky depending on the fabric you are using. For a full tutorial on using French Seams, check out www.jenniferlaurenhandmade.com.

Grade Seam Allowance — To trim back 1 seam allowance shorter than another when stitched together.

Grainline — This is the direction that the threads in your fabric run, both lengthwise and crosswise. Align the grainline arrow on your pattern piece with the direction of one of the threads in your fabric.

Muslin/Toile — A test version of your garment, made with scrap fabric to test the fit of a pattern or practice a sewing technique you’re unfamiliar with, before cutting into your fashion fabric.

Notch — Notching your seam allowance on all curves allows the curve to lay flat once your garment has been turned right side out. To notch, either snip into your seam allowance in straight lines or take out little triangles of fabric. Make sure not to cut too closely to your seam, however, as you don’t want to cut your thread!

Press seam — Use your iron to press your sewn seam for a professional finish.

Seam Allowance — A seam allowance is the border of extra fabric that runs around the entire edge of every pattern piece.

Tailor’s Tack — A temporary mark transferred from a paper pattern onto fashion fabric using a needle and thread that is looped loosely around once and not tied at the end. Leave long tails to ensure your mark won’t come out.

Under-stitch — To sew the seam allowance of a neckline/collar etc onto the facing side of the garment if not top-stitching. This is usually done to prevent the lining/facing of the garment from rolling forward and being seen during wear, it also keeps folds crisp and clean.

Have you made the Dulcie Pinafore? Do you have comments, questions or feedback? Why not share it with me —

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© Pattern and Instructions Copyright Jennifer Lauren Handmade 2020. All Rights Reserved. This pattern and instructions are for home-use only and not for commercial or manufacturing purposes. Thanks!