About Top-Down Raglan Pullovers the underarm is complete and the raglan piece joined to be worked in the round. The top-down raglan design is of "sea ms" are decreased to the neckline. From Continue increasing every other row until comparatively recent origin in terms of the top-down, the sleeve/body stitches are the piece is long/large enough to meet at swea ter design. Raglan construction was increased to the underarms and then th e the underarms. The sleeves/front/back arc created as a supplement to or replacement sleeves, front and back stitches separated separated at this point. Some designers have of the saddle shoulder sweater. See Suzanne and wo rked to the edgings as three separate the knitter work the sleeves first so they are Bryan's article "Raglan Sleeved Sweaters tubes. worked down to the wrist and finished off. from the Bottom Up" on page 46 for more Others instruct the knitter to work the body discussion o n the history of this design. Construct ion first and then the sleeves. In that instance, The hallmark of the raglan is the diagonal A top-down raglan is essentially a seamless the body is worked as a tube to the desired shaping lines moving from the top of the rectangular yoke. Once the math for gauge length and finished. Regardless of which neckline, to the underarm. Thus, the sleeve is complete, cast o n placing markers at is done first, some additional stitches may top is integrated into the neckline. This the four points dividing the back/sleeve/ be cast on for the underarms to reach the design eliminates the problem of excess front/sleeve (see Swatch 1) . The stitch before desired chest measurement. The finishing fabr ic under the arms which is frequently the purple marker is the beginning of the on a top-down raglan can include a short found in d rop sleeve sweaters or seams to fro nt neck. The stitches between the purple seam at the underarms if the stitches fo r the limit the wea rer's movement. (begi nning of round m arker) and the fi rst sleeve were not picked up from the body green marker are the ri ght sleeve stitches. when started. Finishing can also include Com ponents The sti tches between the green m arkers the neckJ ine edging or a button band for a A raglan sweater incorporates the same are the back neck. The stitches between the cardigan if they were not worked as a part components as other sweater designs second green ma rker and the blue marker of the ga rment. - edgings, a body, sleeves and a neckline. are the left sleeve stitches. The stitch after What sets this design apart is the method the blue marker is for the front neck. In Pros/Cons of shaping the armhole. AJso, although it other words, the short sides of the rectangle Pros can be worked in pieces and seamed, raglan are the sleeves, the long sides are the front For many knitters, one of the major construction lends itself quite well to being and back. The "yoke" of the garment is advantages to working a top-down raglan worked in one piece whether from the created by increasing two stitches at each design is the minimal amount of finishing. bottom up or the top down. When worked marker every other row. After knitting a Once the piece comes off the needles, it in o ne piece from the bottom up, the sleeve/ couple of inches, some additional stitches is almost complete. For those who don't body stitches arc joined when the length to may be cast on for the front neck and the like or are nol proficient at finish ing, this

12 Cast On • May - July 2010 design produces a great looking finished Cables can be incorporated into the raglan object. shaping. Extra stitches need to be cast on to accommodate the cables. Be sure to recheck Another advantage to working from the the math for sizing. Incorporating lace, t op ~ down is that the garment can be tried cables or any stitch pattern involving stitch on as it is progressing. In order to try it multiples can be a challenge. The stitch on, the stitches need to be moved to waste pattern should be centered over the front, yarn long enough to hold the stitches when back and tops of sleeves. Also, the type/rate they are stretched out. Once the sweater of raglan shaping needs to be harmonious has been tried on, it goes back onto the with the stitch pattern. knitting needles to continue working. Also, particularly relevant fo r children's Designing within the Framework, garments, sleeves and body length can be The raglan design is a great canvas for more easily lengthened as the child grows. playing with various types of increases/ Simply remove the bind off and the ribbing, decreases. Because this article focuses on put the stitches onto the needles and knit top-down construction, we will review Swatch 1 to the added desired length, finishing with increases and their visual appearance. As the edging. Children tend to grow taller knitters working through the Master Hand faster than they grow around. Being able to Kn itting Program learn, there are many lengthen sleeves and body will lengthen the different ways to increase stitches. The time a sweater fits. diffe rent methods of working increases resu lt in diffe rent visual appearances. As in Cons lace, using a yarn over increase will create a The diagonal lines running from neck to hole (see Swatch 2). When fl anking a center underarm have the effect of accentuating seam stitch, the hole adds visual interest the shoulders. This attention to the and decorative appeal to the seams. The shoulders is not troublesome for most yarn over increase is particularly sweet in children and men, however some adults children's garments and also complements may not want this focus on their sho ulders. an allover lace design nicely. The bar Also, not all adults are as angular in shape increase creates a small "purl bump" from the neck to the armhole (or the and also works nicely flanking a center armhole to the neck) and so the rate and/or seam stitch (see Swatch 3). Remember, placement of the increases (top down) or in working the bar increase, that the purl decreases (bottom up) need to be altered bump falls after the stitch in which it is for a more tailored fit. worked. In order for the bumps to fl ank the center stitch, one increase must be worked Placing markers at the beginning of the in the stitch just preceding the seam stitch cast on, for top-down, or at the point when and one in the seam stitch itself. Make One the sleeves are joined to the body for a increases are visually less noticeable than bottom-up is one of the more challenging the yarn over or bar increase methods. aspects of setting up the "seam" placement. They are worked in two different ways and If the markers are not properly placed, the are directional depending on the manner shaping Kill be off. in which they are worked (see Swatch 4). Some knitters prefer that the increases slant Stitch Patterns away from the seam (blended increases When designing for a top-down ga rment - as Swatch 4) and some prefer they slant in a sti tch pattern other than stockinette toward the seam (full fashioned increases) or garter stitch, one thing to keep in mind - this is a matter of personal preference, is that stitch patterns and color work are but be consistent. Because the increases necessarily worked upside down. Because are worked every other row in the raglan the garment grows from the neckline shaping, lifted increases are not the best toward the hem, the stitches are the inverse choice. of what they are when the garment grows from the hem to the neckline. As with any design adventure, swatching is a must. continued on page 14 a top-down construction are vertical and Child's Top-Down Pullover FASHION FRAMEWORK would consist of decreases. Waist shaping by Molly Ferrante happens by decreasing to the waist, working plain for an inch or so and then increasing Yarn Symbol: Medium (4) at regular intervals to the desired stitch Level of Experience: Easy continued from page 13 count for the hip measurement. While Sizes: Child 2-4 (4-6, 6-8, 8-10) most patterns work waist shaping where the side "seams" would be it could also be Finished Chest Measurement: The lifted increase is worked by pulling up worked as vertical darts as "princess seams". Chest: 26 (28, 30, 32)" a leg of the stitch from the previous row; Finished Length: 14 (15, 17, 18)" having fewer than three rows between The bottom of the sweater is another increases can result in the fabric puckering. stylization opportunity. Many basic patterns Materials: end the garment with ribbing. Seed or Cascade 220 (3.5oz/100g, 220yds/200m, As with most other types of garment con­ Moss Sti tch can be substituted for ribbing. 100% Wool): struction, raglan designs can incorporate Working a turning row and then reducing 3 (3, 3, 4) skeins #7823 Turmeric many types of necklines. Cardigan designs needle size to work an inch in stockinette Sizes 5 (3.75mm) dpns & 16" (40cm) circ are worked flat or steeked and the front sets the stage for a hem. Hemming the needle & 7 (4.Smm) dpns & 16" (40cm) & neck shaping is dictated by the type of garment increases the fini shing as it will 24" (60cm) circ needles or size needed to neckline desired. Because the back neck of have to be sewn in to place. V\Thatever fin ish obtain correct gauge pullovers needs to be higher than the front, is used for the bottom of the garment ca n Stitch markers most are worked fla t, or back and forth, be applied to the sleeve ends. Tapestry needle for a couple of inches while working the Waste yarn (wy) increases before the front neck stitches are The sleeve design can be altered as well. added and the piece is joined to be worked Top-down sleeves are traditionally worked Gauge: in the round. with regularly spaced decreases to the cuff. With larger needles in St st, 20 sts & 28 The sleeve stitches can be worked without rows = 4"/ l 0 cm. To save time, take time For crew necks, once the desired back neck any shaping which is perfect for babies and to check gauge. length has been worked, some stitches are toddlers. Or, decreases can be worked to the cast on fo r the front neck and the garment elbow and then regularly spaced increases Special Abbreviations: joined. For v-neck pullovers, neck shaping worked to create a bell-shaped sleeve. Beg of rnd - Beginning of round. is created by slowing the rate of increasing Kl , Pl Rib- *k l, pl; rep from * across. at both ends of the row (the front neck) to Top-down raglan's ease of construction kfb- Bar inc - knit into the front and the every other right side row or every 4th row. allows a great starting point for adding back of the st. A deeper v-neck can be created by further design personalization. Once a knitter is reducing the r;te of increasing to every 6 or comfortable with how they are worked, Preparation - Measuring Gauge 8 rows and when the front and back stitch top-down raglans can become the "go to" (See ga uge worksheet in box) counts match, the fronts are joined and the design for the busy person. The most important part of the general garment worked in the round. A turtle­ pattern information is the description of neck garment is worked as for a crewneck CHILD'S PULLOVER the expected gauge. Before beginning it is although the depth of the back neck is The pattern in this lesson is for an easy necessary to knit a gauge swatch even if you shorter so the neck opening is smaller. A child sized top-down raglan pull over. are using the recommended yarn. Using the turtleneck can be started either with a pro­ There will be an explanation of each step larger needle size and the project yarn, cast visional cast on, the live stitches from which of the construction preceding the pattern on at least 30 stitches and work at least 4" are used fo r the turtleneck, or the turtle­ section to which it pertains. Pattern in Stockinette Stitch. Because many knitters neck cast on straightaway. Square necklines instructions are in red to set them off from have different gauge when knitting in the start with more front neck stitches cast on the explanations. The pattern that follows round, it is a very good idea to knit your and are worked without increases at the incorporates more traditional design gauge swatch in the round. Using the dpns, neck front to the desired depth and then elements with bar increases, ribbing at the cast on enough stitches to provide 4" to stitches cast on across the front. Care must bottom of the body and sleeves as well as a measure.Thi.swill require a swatch with be taken with a square neck design. If it is ribbed neckl ine. The sleeves are decreased about an 8-1 0" circumference. Row gauge too wide, the front will droop. at regular intervals to the cuff rib. This is important for this pattern as it affects the simple design allows for many choices in depth of the armhole. The stitch increases Bust darts and waist shaping are terms of pattern and color. Don't make it combined with the plain rows worked occasionally used in women's garments too hard. It is simple and straightforward establish the framework of the sweater. and easily incorporated. Generally, darts in in design and easy to luiit. When faced with the cha.ice of matching

14 Cast On· May- July 20 10 the stitch gauge or the row gauge, the stitch Rep rows 2 & 3 until there are 8 (8, 10, 10) gauge is still more importan t to the size of sts in ea front section - before first marker your finished ga rment. However, if the row and after last marker. End having worked a GAUGE WORKSHEET gauge is o ff too much, it is best to wo rk in WS row - 78 (82, 98, 104) sts. a differen t yarn. Block the swatch as you Width: intend to care fo r the finished garment. Joining Around (l/8= .1 25, l/4=.25, 3/ 8=.375, I /2=.5, Work through the gauge worksheet below. When the appropriate number of stitches 5/8=.62 5, 3/4=.75, 7/8=.875) If you do not take the time to do this, there are on the needle, stitches are cast on for the center front neck and the yoke is joined is no guarantee that the garment will fi t as Number of Stitches: to be worked in rounds. A cable cast o n intended. (Don't incl ude the selvedge stitches) will give a firm yet flexible front neck edge. You can also use a backwa rd e loop cast Setting Up the Raglan Divide the number of stitches by the on for these stitches, but it will be looser. Choose a cast on that is fl exible. The long­ width. This gives you the number of For a cable cast on, p ut the right needle tip tail or Twisted German are good choices. stitches per inch. Do not round off between the first two stitches on the left The fi rst row aft er the cast on is a purl row. the num ber: needle. Draw up a stitch and place it back This purl row is the "set-up" row for the on the left needle. Continue in this manner stitch markers which are the raglan increase until yo u have cast on the requi red number Number of Stitches Per Inch: points. The increases are worked o n either of stitches. Knit to the end of the row and side of each marker, and in the fi rst and join without twisting. Mul tiply the number o f stitches by 4. second to the last stitch of each right side Round th is number up or down. row. In the first right side row there are not Working the Yoke enough stitches to use for increases at the CO 12 ( 14, 14, 14) sts at beg of next RS row Number of Stitches in 4": front. As a result, there will be two increases for center front neck. in the sleeves and back sections on that row, Joining Row: *K to l st before first marker Repeat this procedure to determine but only one made in the fron t sections. (this marker will become the beg of rnd the row gauge. Slip the markers as you come to them. The marker and should be a different color than firs t couple of inches of the sweater are knit the rest), kfb, sm, kfb; rep from * around to Length: back and forth in Stockinette stitch until last marker, knit to end of rnd. Join end of ( l/8=.125, l/4=.25, 3/8=.375, 1/2=.5, the back neck length measures between rnd to CO sts to work in rnds. 5/8=.625, 3/4=.75, 7/8= .875) 1-2". The first number given in the pattern Rnd l: KI rnd ending l st before beg of is for size 2-4. The numbers in parentheses rnd marker. Number of Rows: are fo r sizes 4-6 through 8- 10. If only one Rnd 2: ,. K to I st before marker, kfb, sm, (Don't include the cast on or bind off number is given, it applies to all sizes. kfb; rep from * around to last marker, knit edge) to end of rnd. Neck Edge Rep rnds 1 & 2 working St st in the rnd and Divide the number of rows by the working kfb inc on ea side of 4 markers With larger 16" circ needle, CO 40 (44, 50, length. This gives you the number of EOR until there are 58 (62, 68, 72) sts bet 56) sts. rows per inch. Do not round off the front markers (where front neck sts were Set up row (WS): PI , pm, p9 ( 10, 12, 14), number: CO. Change to longer needles when needed. pm, p20 (22, 24, 26), pm, p9 ( 10, 12, 14), End having worked Rnd 2. pm (this marker will become the beg of Number of Rows Per Inch: row/rnd marker and should be a different Try It On color than the others), pl. Multiply the number of rows by 4. At this point it is a good idea to try the Row I (RS) : Kfb, sm , kfb, k7 (8, 10, 12), kfb, Round this number up o!' down. sweater on the intended recipient, if sm, kfb, k1 8 (20, 22, 24), kfb, sm, kfb, k7 (8, possible. Using a tapestry needle and JO, 12), kfb, sm, kfb. separate pieces of waste yarn, place each Number of Rows in 4": Row 2 (and all WS rows): P across. "section" of the sweater on its own waste Row 3: Kfb in first st, ~ k to !st before the yarn - there will be fo ur. The sleeve sections If you are getting fewer stitches than marker, kfb, sm, kfb; rep from *. After last shoul d extend out beyond the edge of the the recommended gauge, try using a marker, k to second to the last st in row, kfb, shoulders, and the bottom of the sleeve smaller needle size. kl . You will be working an inc before and sections should meet comfortably together after ea m arker, and in the first st in the row under the arms. If you are getting more stitches than and second to the last st in the row - 10 sts the recommended gauge, try using a inc. The first time row 3 is worked, there larger needle size. will only be 2 sts at the end of the row, just work kfb inc in both sts. continued on page 16

www.TKGA.com 15 kl, pl, Rib for I 1/2". BO loosely in pat or the new color and work one round. When FASHION FRAMEWORK with invisible BO. you've come around to the stitch where the new color was started, pick up the right leg Sleeves of the first color stitch in the row below and Like the body of the sweater, the sleeves are place onto the left needle. Kni t that right continued from page 15 worked as a tube. Sleeve length is measured leg of the first color together with the right from the underarm. The sweater can again leg of the new color together. If the jogless be tried on fo r appropriate length. The join occurs on an increase round, work a If the piece is too small, you can continue sleeves are generally finished as the body for knit in front and back of stitch increase by to knit rounds without any increases as design continuity. To prevent holes at the knitting the two different colors together as needed. underarms, try picking up an extra stitch the front leg of the stitch but only the new between the stitches picked up from the cast color as the back leg of the stitch. In other Finishing the Ribbing on and the firs t/last live stitch from the yoke words, knit the two strands (one of each Looking ahead- an invisible kl, pl ribbing and decreasing those extra stitches away in color) as the knit in front of stitch and only bind off or a kitchener bind off creates a the first round. one strand (the new color) as the knit in very flexible and attractive edge. Although a back of stitch. little more effort than the standard bind off, Sleeves these bind offs provide a very professional Place sleeve sts on larger dpns, Join new References yarn at right side of underarm CO sts, finish. Bernard, Wendy, Custom Knits, STC Craft , pick up and k 4 sts, pm to indicate beg of New York, NY, 2008. Body rnd, pick up and k 4 sts across other half Buss, Katerina, Big Book of Knitting, Sterling Remove first marker. Put sts from here to of underarm CO sts. Knit across sleeve sts Publishing, Co., Inc. NY, NY, 1999. next marker (sleeve sts) onto wy. Using an to beg of rnd marker - 54 (58, 64, 68) sts. Caron, Cathy, Knitting Sweaters from the e-loop method, CO 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) sts to RH Knit sts for 3/4" (5 rnds). Dec l st on ea Top Down, Lark Books, New York, NY, 2007. needle, pm (beg of rnd marker), CO 4 (4, side of marker on next and every following Gibson-Roberts, Priscilla, Knitting In The 4, 4, 4) sts to RH needle. K across back sts 6th rnd, 9 (10, 12, 13) total dee rnds - 36 Old Way, Interweave Press, Loveland CO, to next marker and remove it. Put sleeve sts (38, 40, 42) sts rem. When sleeve meas 8 1/2 1985. onto wy. CO 8 (8, 8, 8, 8) sts to RH needle - (9 1/2, 11, 12 1/2)" or 2" less than desired Editors of Vogue Knitting Magazine, Vogue 132 (140, 152, 160) sts. Join in rnd, work in length, dee 6 sts evenly in last rnd to 30 (32, Knitting, Pantheon Books, New York, NY, St st until piece meas 12 (13, 15, 16)" from 34, 36) sts. Change to smaller dpns, work 1989. the top back neck or 2" shorter than desired kl, pl Rib for 2". BO loosely in Pat or with Jape!, Stephanie, Fitted Knits, North Light length. Change to smaller needles, work kl, invisible kl, pl BO. Work second sleeve to Books, Cincinnati, OH, 2007. pl Rib for 2". BO all sts in pat or with an match. Righetti, Maggie, Sweater Design in Plain invisible BO. Weave in all yarn tails using duplicate stitch. English, St. Martin's Press, New York, NY, Neck Edging Block. 1990. Working the neckline prior to working Walker, Barbara, Knitting From the Top , the sleeves provides a more accurate fit fo r Striped Version Schoolhouse Press, Pittsville, WI 1972. sleeve length. The stitches for the neckline Adding stripes is easy. Simply change colors Madrone, Heather, Knitting Outside the are picked up in the middle of the knit evenly spaced or randomly - two colors or a Lines: Top-Down Design Tutorial, October 4, stitch underneath the cast on edge. Doing parade of colors. Working a jogless join will 2009, www.knitoutlines.blogspot.com so makes the neckline appear to grow out reduce the "stairstep" that can occur when Soucy, Diane, Knitting Your First?, www. of the sweater fabric. The neckline must working stripes. To work a jogless join, start knittingpureandsimple.com be bound off loosely enough that it will go over the wearer's head. Again, an invisible or a kitchener bind off is a good choice. 2" ).______~ io- Working the Neckband ,,.: !£:, Using smaller 16" circ needle, beg at Back left raglan "seam': pick up and k 10 (10, BODY 12, 14) sts across top of left sleeve; 10 (l0, 10, 10) sts across left side of front; 12 (14, 14, 14) across center neck; 10 (10, 10, 10) across right side of front; 10 (10, 12, 14) across right sleeve and 20 (22, 24, 24) sts across back - 72 (76, 82, 86) sts. Work in 26 (28, 30, 32)"

16 Cast On· May- July 20 10