Muhammet Akaydin, Yahya Can Pilling Performance and Abrasion Characteristics of Selected Basic Weft Knitted Fabrics Pamukkale University, Abstract Denizli Vocational Scholl, The aim of this study was the determination of the effects of dyeing, knit construction and Denizli, Turkey the thread yarn production type on the abrasion resistance and pilling performance of E-mail: [email protected] selected basic weft knitted fabrics. For this aim jersey and interlock fabrics were produced from 100% cotton ring and compact yarns. Some of the fabrics produced were dyed. The abrasion resistance and pilling performance of raw and dyed fabrics were measured. The results obtained were classified according to the knit construction, whether the fabric was raw or dyed, and the properties of the yarn from which the fabric was produced. According to the results obtained, the abrasion resistance and pilling performance of interlock fabrics were found to be higher than those of jersey fabrics, those of dyed fabrics higher than those of raw fabrics, and those of fabrics produced from compact yarns were higher than those fabrics produced from ring yarns. Key words: abrasion resistance, compact yarn, pilling, weft knitted fabric. Abrasion resistance and pilling perform- ported that 100 % cotton samples knitted ance are two of the most important me- from ring spun yarns tend to have lower chanical characteristics of fabrics. The pilling rates than those constructed from resistance of a fabric against the force of 100 % cotton open-end spun yarns [9]. friction is known as the abrasion resist- ance. In general, pilling is a fabric defect Akaydin studied basic knitted fabrics observed as small fiber balls or a group from ring combed and compact yarns and consisting of intervened fibers that are determined that the abrasion resistance attached to the fabric surface by one or and pilling performance of supreme fab- more fibers [1]. ric were lower than interlock fabrics. He ascribed this situation to interlock fabric There are many factors, such as the yarn being more stabile, thicker and volumi- spinning system, fabric construction and nous than supreme fabric and to the char- finishing operation, which affect the acteristic of knit construction [10]. abrasion resistance and pilling perform- ance. With certain precautions taken in Mavruz & Ogulata produced jersey, rib fabric production, the abrasion resistance knit and interlock fabrics from ring and and pilling performance of knit fabrics compact yarns in Ne 30 and Ne 40 num- can be developed positively. bers and examined the grams, bursting strength and pilling properties of these Many textile scientists have studied fac- fabrics. However, they did not determine tors that have an effect on pilling and the important difference between the pill- abrasion resistance [2 - 5]. ing properties of fabrics produced from ring and compact yarns [11]. Baird et al. stated that washing increases pilling tendency and speed [6]. Betran et al. stated that the pilling ten- Candan et al. studied the abrasion resist- dencies of woollen jersey and rib knit n Introduction ance of knitted fabrics from OE and ring fabrics can be predicted by looking at fibre, thread and fabric properties using Knit fabrics will find wider use in time spun yarns and found that knitted fabric artificial neural networks [12]. since they can be produced more eas- from ring spun yarns is slightly better than ily for a lower cost, and they are more knitted fabric from OE spun yarns [7]. flexible. However, knit fabrics are less The study by Nergis & Candan included stable than weave fabrics since they are Özdil et al. compared knitted fabrics the pilling performance and abrasion re- produced with low twist yarn and have from compact spun yarns with classic sistance of plain knitted fabric from che- a slack construction, as a result of which ring spun yarns and reported that knitted nille yarns. The results showed that yarn they have a low abrasion resistance and fabric from compact yarns demonstrated properties (component yarn count, pile pilling performance. Especially in gar- better pilling performance [8]. length) and laundering or dry-cleaning ments produced from knit fabric and gar- do not influence the pilling performance ments approaching a state of disuse does Candan & Önal evaluated the pilling per- and abrasion resistance of dry relaxed the pilling problem play an important formance of weft knitted fabric made of fabrics, whose component yarns tend to role. open-end and ring spun yarns. They re- decrease [13]. Akaydin M., Can Y.; Pilling Performance and Abrasion Characteristics of Selected Basic Weft Knitted Fabrics. 51 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2010, Vol. 18, No. 2 (79) pp. 51-54. Table 1. Properties of yarns used in the pro- warp knit double bar raschel (DNBR). As of E28 machine and interlock fabrics on duction of the knitted fabrics. a result of the experimental studies, they circular knitting machines of 30 inch determined that warp knit double bar ra- diameter and E24. Some properties and Yarn Characteristics Ring Compact schel showed the highest abrasion resist- fabric codes are given in Tables 2 and 3. Linear density (count), tex 14.78 14.78 ance, whereas flat woven, circular knitted The fabric sett, fabric weight, abra- Tenacity, cN/tex 17.31 20.54 flat and warp knit flat fabrics showed the sion resistance and pilling of the fabrics Breaking elongation, % 4.68 4.82 lowest [16]. were measured according to the relevant Hairiness, H 5.79 5.04 standards: ASTM D 3775–3a, ASTM Evenness, % CV 11.43 11.13 Jasińska, instead of the standard method D 3776–96, ASTM D 4966, ASTM D Thin places,- 50% km 0 0 currently used to evaluate pilling tenden- 4970–02 and ASTM 3786, respectively. Thick places, + 50% km 7 4 cy, developed a new method in which a Neps, + 200% km 14 11.4 more objective and uniform evaluation We processed all the grey fabrics of com- could be made. According to the method pact and conventional ring-spun yarns Omeroğlu & Ulku stated that fabrics wo- developed, the most subjective factors in in the same baths to eliminate any vari- the standard method are visual percep- ven from compact yarns had more pill- ations during these processes. The grey tion and the experience of observers. The ing resistance compared to those woven fabrics were first scoured with hydrogen from ring yarns. They ascribed this situ- new method allows to increase assess- peroxide, the bath ratio being 1/12. The ation to ring yarns showing more hairi- ment precision and the repeatability of following scouring, hot washing, acetic ness characteristics on the surface. In ad- pilling assessment. The main advantage acid processing and rinsing processes dition, according to abrasion resistance of the new method is the replacing of the were carried out in succession. Then all test results, they determined that fab- organoleptic technique of pilled surface the fabrics were dyed blue with reactive rics woven from compact yarns led to a assessment with a new technique using dyes in a jet dying machine. During the 19.3% - 43.0% less weight loss compared computer image analysis and the raster dyeing, we processed the fabrics at 25 °C to those woven from ring yarns [14]. graphics method to detect and calculate pilled changes on a fabric surface [17]. at the beginning and increased it to 60 °C Can, in his experimental studies, investi- for 45 minutes. Following cold rinsing, gated the abrasion resistance and pilling 0.5 g/l of acetic acid and 3% of softener of plain weave fabrics made from 100% n Material and method were applied, respectively. Afterwards, the tube slitting, drying and sanforing cotton ring carded, ring combed and OE In this study, ring combed yarns and processes were carried out. rotor spun yarns. He found that the abra- compact yarns in two different numbers sion resistance and pilling performance were manufactured from combed rovings of fabrics made from OE rotor spun yarns produced from the same cotton blend. The abrasion resistance was measured as had a maximum value. However, he de- The counts, tenacity, evenness and hairi- a cycle quantity which showed the break- termined that the abrasion resistance and ness of the yarns were measured. ASTM ing off of any yarns in that time. Pilling pilling performance of fabrics made from D 861-99, ASTM D 1422–99, ASTM D was measured as the pill number in a cer- ring carded spun yarns had a minimum 1578–93, ASTM D 1425–96 and ASTM tain area at 2000 cycles. There is a pos- value [15]. D 5647 were used respectively. Data of sibility of pouring pills according to the the yarns are given in Table 1. The yarn fiber and yarn structure at 5000 and 7000 Pamuk & Çeken researched the abrasion twist coefficient was selected as eα = 3.50. cycles. In addition, pill formations may resistances of 7 different types of auto- not be observed clearly at 125, 500 and mobile seat covers commonly used in au- RL-Jersey and RR-Interlock fabrics were 1000 cycles. For this reason, 2000 cycles tomobiles, after 10000 rubs of abrasion. produced from yarns, the properties of were chosen for the pilling test. A higher These fabrics were flat woven, woven which are given in Table 1. Jersey fabrics number means a higher abrasion resist- velour, circular knitted flat, circular knit- were produced on circular knitting ma- ance, whereas a lower number means a ted pile, warp knit flat, warp knit pol and chines of 32 inch diameter, and a gauge higher pilling performance. Table 2. Physical properties of jersey fabrics produced from 14.78 tex (Ne 40/1) yarn. n Results and discussion Weight, Wale density, Course density, Abrasion Pilling, Construction Code g/m2 wpc cpc resistance, cycle pills/area In this study, the abrasion resistance and Ring raw RJ1 101 13 21 16600 212 pilling performance of jersey and inter- Ring dyed RJ2 101 13 21 22700 161 lock fabrics produced from ring and com- Compact raw CJ1 102 13 21 20200 193 pact yarns in a raw and dyed state were Compact dyed CJ2 102 13 21 24300 149 evaluated.