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An Investigation for Developing Local Knitting Industry and Formulation of Mathematical Relationships An Investigation for Developing Local Knitting Industry and Formulation of Mathematical Relationships Amna Yagoub Osman Ibrahim M.Sc. in Textile Technology, Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Science and Technology, University of Gezira, (1996) A Thesis Submitted to the University of Gezira in Fulfillment of the Doctor of Philosophy in Textile Engineering Technology Department of Textile Engineering Faculty of Textiles November /2013onth/Year i Investigation for Developing Local Knitting Industry and Formulation of Mathematical Relationships By: Amna Yagoub Osman Ibrahim Supervision Committee: Name Position Signature Prof. Dr. Eng. Abbass Yousif Abu Salma Main Supervisor ……… Dr. Fadl Elmoula Abdallah Idris Co-supervisor .......... ............................… ……………… Co-supervisor ……… Date of Examination: November /2013 ii Investigation for Developing Local Knitting Industry and Formulation of Mathematical Relationships By: Amna Yagoub Osman Ibrahim Examination Committee: Name Position Signature ……………………………. Chair Person ………………... ........................................ External Examiner ………………... ........................................ Internal Examiner ………………… Date of Examination: November /2013 iii Dedication Dedicated to my dear parents, family & friends iv Acknowledgements First I thank Allah for giving me ability to do this study. All majesty words to Prof. Dr. Eng. Abbass Yousif Abu Salma for his support and continuous supervision. I would like to express my sincere thanks to Dr Eng. Fadl Elmoula Abd Allah Idris the co-supervisor for his support. My particular thanks are to Syed Eng. Eltigany Mohamed Abd Allah the manager of Elhashmab factory, who assisted me for yarns collection and giving me permission to carry this study in Elhashmab factory. Also thanks are due to Syed Adil Ibrahim and Miss Amna Karrar, the staff of the textile engineering laboratory-Sudan University for Science and Technology for their great help, and to the staff of Faculty of Textiles - University of Gezira. Many thanks are to my family and all who supported this study. v An Investigation for Developing Local Knitting Industry and Formulation of Mathematical Relationships By: AmnaYagoub Osman Ibrahim Degree of Doctor of Philosophy Textile Engineering Technology (2013) Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Textiles, University of Gezira M.Sc. in Textile Technology University of Gezira, Faculty of Science and Technology (1996) Abstract Knitting industry was developed and made a competition for the weaving industry in many areas .The growing development has not found its way-out to the local knitting industry. Visiting to the local knitting factories showed that there was deficiency in solving such problems. The purpose of this study was to investigate knitting parameters and to formulate mathematical relationships. This was based on scientific and engineering approaches to achieve better knitting performance. A survey of local industry was carried out. It was found that, factories did not possess measuring instruments for measuring yarn tension; they rely on manual control which is subjected to mistakes. Beside problems encountered, are poor machine settings, particularly adjusting of loop length, tension control, and procurement of needles…etc. The experimental work was carried out in El Hashmab knitting factory, located in Omdurman. The bulk of the experimental work was carried out in a circular Terrot double knitting machine, having a diameter of 17″ and its gauge was 12. The initial machine setting had been checked before producing the required fabric samples. Producing fabric samples with different parameters was confronted with problems of yarn procurement according to required specifications, from local mills .Yarns were subjected to physical tests; the fabrics produced were tested in the Textile Engineering laboratory -Department of Textile Engineering- Sudan University of Science and Technology, the results were tabulated and analyzed. The impact of increasing the machine speed on yarn input tension was also investigated. The main findings of this work were represented in mathematical relationships relating to yarn count, loop length, yarn tension and waxing in order to achieve better knitting performance. These relationships will help in manufacturing knitted fabrics with regular engineered structure which conform to the market requirements. A slight increase in tension was found during high speeds but within the permitted limits. The measuring device for determining yarn tension helped in improving fabric quality due to accurate measurement of tension. More investigations are required to study the effect of yarn waxing in local knitting manufacture as well as the impact of very high speed on yarn input tension. vi المحلية وصياغة معادﻻت رياضية دراسة لتطوير صناعة التريكو إعداد الطالبة: آمنة عثمان يعقوب إبراهيم مستخلص تطورت صناعة التريكو وأصبحت منافسة لصناعة النسيج في مجاﻻت كثيرة. هذا التطور المهم لصناعة التريكو لم يجد طريقه للصناعة المحلية وأن هناك صعوبات تواجه تطور هذه الصناعة. أظهرت الزيارات إلي مصانع التريكو المحلية نقصا وقصورا في إيجاد حلول لبعض هذه المشاكل. الغرض من هذه الدراسة تحديد معلمات التريكو المناسبة وصياغة عﻻقات رياضية لﻻستجابة السريعة لعملية التريكو. فى هذا اﻻطار تم اجراء مسح لمتطلبات العمﻻء. و يستند هذا على النهج العلمي و الهندسي للوصول لﻷداء اﻻفضل من نتائج المسح أن كل المصانع لم تتوفربها أجهزة قياس شدد الخيط وأنهم يعتمدون على الضبط اليدوي وهو شامل لمصانع التريكو المحلية. ظهر معرض لﻻخطاء. ايضا المشاكل التي واجهت المصنعين تمثلت في ضعف ضبط ماكينة التريكو ﻻ سيما ضبط طول العروة و قوة الشد وايضا اﻹبر. تم تنفيذ الجزء العملي لهذه الدراسة بمصنع الهاشماب بامدرمان. وتم تنفيذ الجزء اﻷكبر من العمل التجريبي بماكينة تريكو لحمة دائرية لقد تمت مراجعة الضبط اﻻبتدائي للماكينة قبل استخدامها ﻻنتاج عينات اﻷقمشة المطلوبة. واجه انتاج (.Terrotقطرها 17 بوصة عيار 12 ) عينات البحث بمعلمات مختلفة مشاكل في توفير الخيوط بالمواصفات المطلوبة تم جلبها من المصانع المحلية وتم انتاج عينات من قماش التريكو مع معلمات مختلفة. تم اختبار الخيط واﻷقمشة المنتجة في معمل قسم هندسة النسيج - جامعة السودان للعلوم والتكنولوجيا. تمثلت النتائج الرئيسة لهذا البحث في العﻻقات الرياضية المتعلقة بطول العروة ونمرة الخيط وقوة الشد وسرعة الماكينة وتشميع الخيط من أجل تحقيق أفضل أداء للتريكو. هذه المعادﻻت تعين فى تصنيع أقمشة تريكو ذات بناء هندسي سليم ومنتظم. لوحظ ان قوة الشد)سنت نيوتن( تزداد مع انسياب الخيط من بكرة الخيط وعند المغذيات ﻷعلى قيمة لها في منطقة صنع العرو لكل من الخيوط المشمعة وغير المشمعة. فى اطار هذا البحث ايضا تمت دراسة أثر زيادة سرعة الماكينة على قوة الشد )سنت نيوتن( فى منطقة صنع العرو وجدت زيادة طفيفة فى قوة الشد اثناء السرعات العالية وايضا تسهل سرعة اﻻستجابة للسوق وفق مواصفات اﻷقمشة المطلوبة. وقد وضح ان استخدام جهاز قياس الشدد إﻻ أنها فى الحدود المسموح بها. القماش المنتج وذلك لدقة تحديد قوة الشد. لذا يلزم نصح المصنعين المحليين بالحصول على أجهزة قياس قوة الشد له أثر مباشر في تحسين جودة للتحكم في الشدد على الخيط. ويلزم المزيد من التحقيقات لمعرفة تأثير تشميع الخيط علي كفاءة صناعة التريكو المحلية، فضﻻ عن تأثير السرعة العالية جدا على زيادة شدد الخيط . - 7 - Table of contents Title Page Dedication iii Acknowledgements iv Abstract (Eng.) v Abstract (Arabic) vi Table of contents vii List of tables x List of figures xii Chapter one: Introduction 1.1 General introduction 1 1.2 Problem identification and Justification 3 1.3 Objectives 4 Chapter Two: Literature review 2.1 History of knitting technology 5 2.2 Hand knitting 5 2.3 Manual frame 5 2.3.1 Principle of the manual frame 6 2.3.2 Improvement of the manual frame 8 2.4 Powered knitting machine 9 2.5 High speed knitting machines 11 2.6 Electronic knitting machines 12 2.7 Advances in knitting technology 13 2.8 Factors determining economy and productivity of a knitting factory 14 2.9 knitting mechanism 14 2.9.1 Types of knitting machines 15 2.9.2 Local knitting machines 15 2.9.3 Weft knitting machine general feature 15 2.9.3.1 Knitting elements 16 2.9.3.1.1 Needles 16 2.9.3.1.1.1 Bearded needle 17 2.9.3.1.1.2 Latch needle 18 2.9.3.1.1.3 Compound needle 18 2.9.3.1.2 The holding down – knock over 19 2.9.3.1.3 Sinkers 19 2.9.3.1.4 The needle carriers (needle cylinder, needle dial) 20 2.9.3.1.5 Cams 20 2.9.3.1.5.1 Engineering cams 20 2.9.3.1.5.2 Knitting cams 21 2.9.3.2 Knitting cycle 22 2.9.3.2.1 Knitting cycle of latch needle 22 2.10 Basic knitted fabrics 24 2.11 Optimizing knitting performance and fabric quality 25 Chapter Three: Materials, method and equipment 3.1 Materials 29 3.2 Methods 30 3.2.1 Introduction 30 3.2.2 Survey of the local knitting industry 31 3.2.2.1 2. Primary data31 3.2.2.2 Layout and machinery arrangement 31 3.2.2.3 Activities 31 - 8 - 3.2.2.4 Technology and types of installed machinery 31 3.2.2.5 Type of yarns used 31 3.2.2.6 Type of products and production efficiency 31 3.2.2.7 Operating conditions and cleaning efficiency 31 3.2.3 Investigation of the knitting parameters 32 3.2.3.1 Investigation of effect of initial machine setting on performance 35 3.2.3. 1.1 Production of knitted rib fabrics by initial & adjusted setting 32 3.2.3.1.2 Fabric quality tests 32 3.2.3.2 Investigation of effect of varying loop length 34 3.2.3.2.1 Productions of fabric samples by varying loop length 35 3.2.3.2.2 Fabric quality tests 35 3.2.3.3 Investigating of effect of yarn count (Ne) 35 3.2.3.3.1 Production of fabric samples by varying yarn count 36 3.2.3.3.2 Fabric quality tests 36 3.2.3.4 Investigating of yarn waxing on knitting performance 36 3.2.3.4.1 Measurement of tension build-up at different zone 36 3.2.3.4.2 Production of fabric samples by waxed & un- waxed yarn 37 3.2.3.4.3 Fabric quality
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