Summit Peak Hoodie Fabric R equirements: 58” width fabric **Additional fabric may be required to match stripes or one way designs. Recommended Fabrics and Notions: Knit Fabric - (Stretch fabric with at least 25% stretch) Sweatshirt Fleece, French Terry, Cotton Lycra, Jersey, Cotton Inter- lock, Poly Blends, Medium-Thick Knits. (Pre-wash your fabric). Ribbing - (Stretch Fabric with 50% stretch) Ribbing, Cotton Lycra, Knits with at least 5% spandex and excellent recovery. (Pre-wash your fabric). Drawstring (Optional) Medium weight Fusible Interfacing (For use with drawstring) 2 eyelets (Optional) 1/4” center Separating Zipper (For zippered hoodie) Size Chart and Finished Measurements: Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main Pg. 2 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main Pg. 3 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 Stretch Gauge: Tips for Sewing with Knits: • Use a ball point needle or jersey needle in your serger or sewing machine. • If you’re not using a serger, use a stretch stitch on your sewing machine. It will look like this: • If your sewing machine doesn’t have a stretch stitch, use the zigzag stitch and low- er the width to 1 mm. • To allow for a greater amount of stretch on your stitch, lower your tension by one number; if you usually have your tension set at a 5, lower it to a 4. • When sewing with knits it is important to not stretch the fabric as you sew. If you’re experiencing wavy seams, try adjusting your presser foot to a lighter pres- sure. • When using a serger, set your differential feed to 1.5 with a stitch length of 2.5 for medium weight knits, 1.0 with a 2.0 stitch length for light weight knits and 2.0 with a 3.0 stitch length for thick knits. (All sergers are different, use this as a guide- line.) • For knits that roll at the edge, press with starch. • Use Wooly Nylon or stretch thread in the bobbin of your sewing machine for greater stretch and tunneling issues from a double needle. This also works well with a straight stitch for top-stitching, not hemming. • Use Wooly Nylon or stretch thread in the upper looper of your serger for fabrics with a great amount of stretch. Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main Pg. 4 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 Printing Instructions: To print the pattern, make sure page scaling is set to none and landscape is selected. Print off the page with the 2” test box (page 23) and adjust settings as needed to match size. Print off the rest of the pattern. Tape the pattern together with the num- bers in sequence to make this: Leave page numbers, text, and paper size selected. When taping the no trim pag- es together, each page will have a border on the bottom and right side. Overlap the adjoining pages to these bor- ders. There will be a small gap that won’t print. Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric following the grain. The grain will be the length of your fabric. Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main Pg. 5 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 Cutting the Hoodie: Bodice: • Cut 1 Front piece A on the fold. (Or 2 mir- rored pieces for zipped hoodie.) • Cut 2 Front piece B (mirrored image). • Cut 1 Back piece on the fold. • Cut 1 Hood piece on the fold. (Or 2 mir- rored pieces for zipped hoodie.) • Cut 2 sleeve pieces (mirrored image). • Cut 2 pocket pieces on the fold (Or 4 pieces not on the fold for zipped hoodie.) Hood Lining: • Cut 1 Hood piece on the fold. (Or 2 mir- rored pieces for zipped hoodie.) Ribbing: • Cut 2 cuff pieces. • Cut 2 Waistband pieces on the fold. (Or one piece on the fold and 2 with the added width for the zippered hoodie.) Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main Pg. 6 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 Sewing the Pullover: Seam Allowance is 3/8” unless otherwise stated. • Place one pocket piece right sides together with the Front Bodice A piece. Stitch in place using 1/4” seam allowance. • Using the pattern piece, mark the pocket openings with chalk or a marker. • Then take the other pocket piece and place it right sides together with the Front Bodice B pieces. Stitch together with 1/4” seam al- lowance. • Now take the Front Bodice B pieces and turn it so that the pocket is facing right side out. • With the Bodice A piece laid flat and the wrong side of the pocket facing up, place the Bodice B piec- es and pocket right sides together with the Bodice A piece. Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main Pg. 7 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • To place them right sides together, you’ll have to place the Bodice B pieces and pocket inside the Bodice A piece. Align the sides and pock- ets. • With the pocket pushed out of the way, use the 3/8” seam allowance and sew the side seam. Stop at the pocket opening and make sure to backstitch. The pocket seam allow- ance will be facing away from the bodice. Repeat with the other side. • Now with the pocket still pushed away from the bodice, align the bottom bod- ice pieces. Using 3/8” seam allowance, stitch together below the pocket open- ing, making sure to backstitch. The Close Up pocket seam allowance should be fac- ing away from the bodice. • Align the top of the pocket pieces and stitch together, starting and stopping at the side seams. Do not stitch through the bodice. Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main Pg. 8 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • Turn your bodice right side up. Press flat. (Optional, top stitch the princess seams on the bodice). • Stitch two small lines 1/2” wide, through all layers at the top and bottom of the pocket opening at each side. • Baste the pocket in place at the bottom of the bodice. • Take a sleeve piece and place it right sides together with the front bodice (markers are for the back bodice). Stitch in place. Repeat with the other sleeve. Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main Pg. 9 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • Align the opposite side of the sleeve with the back bodice. Match up the markers and stitch in place. Repeat with the other sleeve. Sewing the Hood: • For grommet application, cut 2 1”x1” squares of fusible interfacing. (I pre- fer thick interfacing for this). Using the guides on the pattern piece, mark the grommet placement and fuse the inter- facing to the wrong side of the hood. Repeat with the other side. • Follow the directions included with your grommets and attach them to the hood pieces. (Only needed for the exterior of the hood, not need- ed for the lining.) • Place the hood pieces right sides together and stitch along the top and back of the hood. Repeat with the hood lining. Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main Pg. 10 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • With one hood turned right side out, place it inside the other hood, right sides together. • Align the pieces and stitch together around the face opening. • Turn the hood right side out and press the seam flat at the face opening. Using a 1” seam allow- ance, topstitch around the face opening, creating a casing. • Align the bottom hood pieces and baste together with 1/4” seam allowance. Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main Pg. 11 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • Take the hood and insert it into the bodice, with the face opening right sides together with the front bod- ice. • Align the hood neckline to the bod- ice neckline. Match the center front and back of the hood to the cen- ter front and back of the neckline. Stitch in place. Finishing the Pullover: • Now place your bodice right sides together, aligning at the armpit, and stitch along the length of the sleeve and side of the bodice. Repeat with the other side. • Take the Bottom Band pieces and place them right sides together. Stitch the short ends together on each side. • Fold the band wrong sides togeth- er lengthwise. Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main Pg. 12 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 • Place the band around the bottom of the bodice, raw edges togeth- er. Make sure to match the band seams to the bodice side seams. Stitch in place. • Press the band away from the bod- ice, with the seam allowance facing towards the bodice. Topstitch in place on the bodice. • Fold the Cuff piece right sides to- gether widthwise. Stitch along the side. • Turn the cuff wrong sides together lengthwise, matching up the raw edges. • Place the cuff right sides together inside one of the sleeves, match- ing the seams. Stretch to fit and sew in place. Repeat with the oth- er sleeve. Size Chart Glossary Printing Cutting Guide Pull Over Zip Up Zipper Main Pg. 13 Summit Peak Hoodie © New Horizons Designs 2017 Sewing the Zip Up: • Place one pocket piece right sides together with the Front Bodice A piece.