Central Queensland University, Australia Jill Adams Creating the Cook

Adams Creating the cook Central Queensland University, Australia Jill Adams Creating the cook: cookery and creativity Abstract: Ken Robinson’s theories of creativity can be applied to creative cookery and the changes in how recipes were presented during both World War II and the immediate post-war period. He writes: ‘It is important to be clear about what creativity is and how it works in practice. There are three related ideas … imagination, which is the process of bringing to mind things that are not present to our senses; creativity, which is the process of developing original ideas that have value, and innovation, which is the process of putting new ideas into practice’ (Robinson 2011: 3). This paper looks at cooking in terms of these three elements – imagination, communication and creativity – during World War II and immediately after, when food shortages, rationing and coupons presented limited food options, and into the post-war period when home cookery, newly released from domestic drudgery, rapidly became a creative art. It argues that creative cooking relies on recipes and how they are written and presented, as well as the cook’s skill and creative intuition. Biographical note: Jillian (Jill) Adams (B Arts (Hons), Dip Ed, MA) is a qualified teacher, a graduate of Cordon Bleu École de Cuisine in Paris, has been the Training and Development Manager of Coffee Academy, a joint initiative of Douwe Egberts Australia and the William Angliss Institute, and is president of the Oral History Association of Australia. Her book, Barista: a guide to espresso coffee (2008) is used widely in coffee training in Australia and overseas while her A Good Brew: HA Bennett & Sons and tea and coffee trading in Australia tells the story of social and cultural change in Australia through the stories of people involved in our tea and coffee industries (to be published, 2013) After completing a Masters in Oral History and Historical Memory at Monash University, Jillian commenced her PhD on Australian culinary history post World War II at Central Queensland University in 2012. She has co-edited a special edition of MC Journal on ‘coffee’ (with Professor Donna Lee Brien), has published articles in numerous academic journals and presented papers at local and international conferences. Keywords: food writing – recipe writing – Australian food writers – creativity Strengthening learning and teaching leadership in the creative arts: createED 2009-2012 1 TEXT Special issue 16, Barbara de la Harpe, Thembi Mason & Donna Lee Brien (eds.) Adams Creating the cook Introduction: imagination, communication and creativity It struck me, as I followed a recipe for the ‘Rhubarb, Sour Cream and Cinnamon Sugar Cake’ from Belinda Jeffrey’s The Country Cookbook: Seasonal Jottings and Recipes (2010), that there are elements of cooking that cannot be learned from cookery books, magazines or recipes. Jeffrey’s recipe calls for four cups of rhubarb and, as I only had three, I substituted tart apple to make up the fourth cup. Rather than beating the sugar and butter with a hand beater as directed, I decided to use my food processor and, instead of timing the cooking, I waited until I smelled that cooked- cake-smell wafting through the house. Luce Giard reminds us that the process of cooking is based on cultural order, and is about creating one’s own style of cooking by ‘navigating through accepted, allowed and ready-made techniques’ (in de Certeau, Giard & Mayol 1998: 156). She also writes that cookery is based on women’s observation and (via the transmission of knowledge), the understanding of a series of techniques, and that it requires multiple memory, a ‘programming’ mind, sensory perception and creative ingenuity (157). Even with the help of books, a woman’s knowledge of cookery creeps into one, she says, making the observation when she finally took up cooking that it ‘was something that came to me from my body, and that integrated me into the great corps of women of my lineage, incorporating me into their anonymous ranks’ (153). Sir Ken Robinson writes about the creative process: It is important to be clear about what creativity is and how it works in practice. There are three related ideas … imagination, which is the process of bringing to mind things that are not present to our senses; creativity, which is the process of developing original ideas that have value, and innovation, which is the process of putting new ideas into practice (2011: 3). To cast this in terms of cooking creatively, first we imagine the dish or we see or taste it, and then we follow the recipe and, in the process of following the instructions, we tweak and change as new ideas or essential adaptations (when we don’t have the right ingredients or equipment at hand) come into play. During World War II and in the immediate post-war period, cooking (and learning to cook) changed for most Australian housewives. Increasingly, women dispensed with hand written recipe collections handed from mother to daughter, the large Anglo- Australian housekeeping manuals with their sections on basic cooking, and the extensive ‘standard’ cookery books that had been the mainstay of their mothers. Instead, they found a more creative inspiration for their cooking in popular women’s magazines such as Woman, The Australian Women’s Weekly (AWW) and Women’s Day and Home (later Woman’s Day), the women’s pages of newspapers, cooking demonstrations and cooking shows on radio. They were also inspired by a new style of cookbook that contained international dishes and that showed women how to cook and entertain with flair, using innovative presentation styles such as step-by-step photographic instructions and colour images of artistically arranged prepared recipes. By the mid-1950s – with new and exciting recipes and food ideas, and modern kitchens replete with timesaving devices – cooking was well on the way to becoming a creative art for those who weren’t trained chefs. Strengthening learning and teaching leadership in the creative arts: createED 2009-2012 2 TEXT Special issue 16, Barbara de la Harpe, Thembi Mason & Donna Lee Brien (eds.) Adams Creating the cook ‘Dom Sci’ and creativity Margaret Cole explained to me that she was never allowed to cook at home. Growing up in the inter-war period in Australia, her family was short of income and her mother could not afford any failures in the kitchen. Her first experience of cooking was, therefore, in her school Domestic Science classes in the 1930s. Creativity in terms of cookery, it appears, was not encouraged here either, training was systematic and work-focused. Sara Burstall writes in her preface to The High School Cookery Book first published in England in 1919 and used in Australian schools as a Domestic Science text in the 1930s: It is now generally recognized [sic] that systematic teaching in the Domestic Arts should have a place in the curriculum of schools for girls since we can no longer assume that training in household work and management will be given in the home itself (Bradshaw: iii). Cole remembers using this text at school in 1933. She underlined parts of the copy I cite from, most likely for an end of year examination, including instructions that, ‘All brass and copper utensils must be kept dry, clean and bright’ (21). She remembers: I had to study that! Miss Picard taught us Domestic Science we had a room to do our cooking in … the Dom Sci Room. I remember one of my friends came to me one day with an egg in her hand – we were going to make scones or something – and she asked me, ‘How do you break an egg?’ She had never been allowed. She came from a property and they had cooks and she’d never been in the kitchen. I used to try and help Mum in the kitchen at home and she wanted us to help but she couldn’t afford to let us go and make things because if we burned them or ruined them it cost more money. Things were not good we couldn’t afford to waste food (Cole: 6 June 2012). Cole remembers that she may have found this book helpful, especially when newly married and confronted by the old wood stove in the farm kitchen of her first home. But she did not cook from it. Instead, she found inspiration for her cooking in the pages of Woman magazine and Vesta Junior’s weekly article in The Argus newspaper. She tore these recipes out each week and saved them in a recipe folder. Margaret Fulton – undoubtedly Australia’s best known cook and food writer – remembers her domestic science days at school and wonders how she ever considered a career in cooking from what she was taught at school (2000: 20). ‘I learned how to cook awful food and to cook it badly. … Mad things were taught at school under the guise of Domestic Science’ (21). Even in the late 1960s, Australian schools did not encourage students to be creative with their cooking. The home economics textbook, Cookery – The Australian Way, was compiled by a group of home economists for Australian girls in 1966 and was reprinted twice in 1966 and 1967: an indication of its widespread use, but not of its popularity. The following poem appears immediately after the forward and just before the introductory chapter on ‘Nutrition and Diet’. I include it here because it suggests that any attempt at creativity can only result in failure: I guessed the pepper; the soup was too hot! I guessed the water; it dried in the pot! Strengthening learning and teaching leadership in the creative arts: createED 2009-2012 3 TEXT Special issue 16, Barbara de la Harpe, Thembi Mason & Donna Lee Brien (eds.) Adams Creating the cook I guessed the salt; and – what do you think? We did nothing else the whole day but drink.

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