Sailors Guyana Get Away to C Ariben

KAY E. GILMOUR C See story onpage23 Seestory JULY 2011NO. 190 SAILORS GUYANA GET AWAY TO C ARIBEN

The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea&Shore

MPASS On-line JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 ...... 40 Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Martinique: 696 93 26 38 Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) [email protected] Puerto Rico: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo Olga Diaz de Peréz Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: (787) 863 5282 [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720 8432. [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Ad Sales & Distribution - Chris Bissondath, for each of the six months spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed Mob: + 590 690 760 100 [email protected] Distribution - Eric Bendahan Tel: (599) 553 3850, [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Bryan Lezama Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Distribution - Doc Leslie Tel: (784) 529-0970 Tortola/BVI: 787-504-5163, [email protected] Distribution - Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: (868) 222-1011, Cell: (868) 347-4890, [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] The Caribbean Sky ...... 34 Sky The Caribbean ...... 35 Book Reviews ...... 36 Cruisers Cooking with ...... 37 Readers’ Forum What’s on My Mind ...... 41 Calendar of Events .....42 Caribbean Market Place ...... Classified Ads 46 ...... 46 Advertisers’ Index Compass S/V Dolce Vita ctions ISSN 1605 - 1998 near you! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole DEPARTMENTS — Bill Bouchard ...... 32 ...... 32 We truly enjoy the Great job and thanks! covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, we are in the area each year. It is entertaining and a great we are in the area each year. It is entertaining and a great resource for all the cruising community. We also frequently do business with your advertisers — this is the way a publication should work, meeting the needs of all stakeholders. is published monthly by welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! noresponsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts and clarity.responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length this publication, except©2011 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of Ltd. short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Compass Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution - Doyle Sails can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. can use. We’re Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Caribbean Compass Info & Updates ...... 4 Info & Updates ...... 7 Business Briefs Eco-News ...... 11 Regatta News...... 12 ...... 22 Meridian Passage Sailor’s Horoscope Cruising Crossword ...... 33 Island Poets ...... 33Dolly’s Deep Secrets Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass 175 BQ,Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. 457-3410 Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Erdle Editor...... Sally [email protected] Ollivierre Assistant Editor...... Elaine [email protected] Hopman Advertising & Distribution...... Tom [email protected] Dederer Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred [email protected] Accounting...... Shellese Graigg [email protected] Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 720-6868 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Curaçao: [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Dominica: Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 [email protected]

SEWLAL nd the nd Inagua — Great! A salty Bahamian island...... 22 Tank U Holding tank for dummies...... 31 Click Google Map link below to ﬁ 15 JULY 2011 • NUMBER 190 JULY 2011 • NUMBER www.caribbeancompass.com ...... 18

The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore The Caribbean’s

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& Mystery Cruise Guess where...... 20 Fun and Tasty Eye on Anguilla What’s the Problem? The Caribbean yachting industry.. BURR HARNEY Cover photo: Veteran traveler Kay E. Gilmour’s portrait of the 251-metre (822-foot) Kaieteur Falls, one of Guyana’s major attra Cover photo: Veteran traveler Kay E. Gilmour’s portrait JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 Santa Martatodiscussdevelopingtheindustryalongthiscountry’sCaribbeancoast Colombian yacht-tourisminterestsmetinthenewlypopularcruisingdestinationof Now, Colombia’sMinistryofCommerce,IndustryandTourismreportsthatthisSouth a thousandparticipantsfromaroundtheworldgatheringinCartagenadeIndias. Organization’s GeneralAssemblywithmorethanahundredministersoftourismand &Updates Info

In 2007theGovernmentofColombiahostedUnitedNationsWorldTourism Colombia AimstoDevelopYachting CONSTANCE ELSON CONSTANCE Valeska Luckert,KassJohnson,LorraineTalmiandBrianDeher The St.MaartenMarineTradesAssociation’snewboard:fromlefttoright, —Continuedonnextpage Marine); MarkMingo(SimpsonBayLagoonAuthority)andGarthSteyn(AquaMania). (Yacht ClubPortDePlaissance);MichaelFerrier(Napa);RobbieFerron(Budget Sailor); SecretaryValeskaLuckert(PalapaMarina);andmembersPatrickBarrett President KassJohnson(DocksideManagement);TreasurerLorraineTalmi(TheWired meeting andelections.ThenewboardconsistsofPresidentBrianDeher(IGY);Vice ed todeveloptheindustryinColombiawithtenmarinasandothertourismservices. year, saidDiaz-Granados.HeestimatedthatmorethanUS$1billionwouldbeneed- There areapproximatelytwomillionpleasureboatsintheCaribbeanSeaeach tor, whichseektomakenauticaltourismendeavorsbothattractiveandprofitable. Granados, presentedpoliciesthathisagencyhasdesignedforbusinessesinthissec- and SouthAmerica.TheMinisterofCommerce,IndustryTourism,SergioDiaz- ing theColombiancoastincruisingroutesbetweenCaribbeanislands,Central the populartourismandyachtingdestinationofSantaMartawithaiminclud- to itsCaribbeancoast. American countryaimstodevelopitsnauticaltourismindustrybringmoretourists On May 26th the St. Maarten Marine Trades Association had its annual general On May26ththeSt.MaartenMarineTradesAssociationhaditsannualgeneral Welcome St.Maarten’sNewMTABoard! A jointforumbetweenpublicandprivateentitiesinthefieldwasheldMarch JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 —Continued on next page . Check out her June 1st explanation of magazine, and the book The Last Schoonerman. magazine, and the book The Cruising World http://deepbluehome.blogspot.com Caribbean’s Oldest Shipwreck Found? Caribbean’s Oldest Shipwreck company, Deep Blue Marine Inc., working A Utah-based underwater exploration “At this point we are unable to identify the actual The company’s website notes, of the Spanish treasure gal- The 16th century was the beginning of the golden age For more information visit www.alldeepblue.com. Cruisers Site-ings considers all things ocean- • Author and environmental correspondent Julia Whitty MALCOLM MAIDWELL Relatives and friends of Malcolm Maidwell are mourn- The CSA Newsletter reports: Eight Bells JOE RUSSELL in California. died of cancer in April Sailing writer Joe Russell Patsy Bolling reports: under contract with the Dominican Republic‘s National Office of the Ministry of under contract with the Dominican in “rediscovered” the oldest shipwreck ever found Underwater Culture might have coast of the Dominican Republic. “We have found a the Caribbean, off the north date back to 1535,” Deep Blue Marine CEO Wilf shipwreck that we can definitively journalist Matt Hopkins. Blum says, according to Utah located a ballast pile in the area of the reef, as well name of the ship… We initially cannon made of foundry iron. The wreck’s location as a small, corroded falcon-type who for years have occa- has been a well-kept secret amongst the local fishermen, that have worked their way sionally recovered cannons, coins, and ceramic pieces ourselves to be the discover- to the surface of the sandy bottom. We don’t consider a very historic ship- ers of this site, but rather the re-discoverers of what is potentially point, but we hope to gain wreck. The history of this wreck is not totally clear at this more insights as our recovery work continues.” One of their most frequented leons and the resultant rise of piracy in the Caribbean. Passage between shipping routes from Panama to Europe was via the Windward past the north shore of what Cuba and Hispaniola, and over the top of Hispaniola — is now the Dominican Republic. ic at why this will be an unusually active hurricane season. ing their loss as he passed away at age 73 on May 7th. He was born in 1938 and ing their loss as he passed away from Grenada where he met and married Liz Lyder came to St. Maarten in 1968 a 25-foot boat from South Africa. He made St. Maarten after crossing the Atlantic in boatbuilding yard in Cole Bay (Land Sea Air) with his home and started the first Peter Spronk. capital, St. George’s. These solar-powered lampposts complement the ambiance lampposts complement These solar-powered capital, St. George’s. sense of securi- and also give an additional of the Carenage, and natural aesthetics boaters are the harbour. However, an evening walk along ty to anyone enjoying or other ves- be used for tying up dinghies these lampposts are not to reminded that to preserve like to encourage everyone Board of Tourism would sels. The Grenada beauty of this unique waterfront. the integrity and Caribbean charter skipper, and author of cruising Joe was a bluewater sailor, guides, articles for

CHRIS DOYLE Continued from previous page Continued from For more information visit https://svrs.cbp.dhs.gov. Light Relief… thanks the general public for its kind assistance in The Grenada Board of Tourism Upon arrival in US waters, boat masters can then call Customs at the closest port Upon arrival in US waters, boat Once enrolled, boat owners file a small vessel reporting float plan prior to their Once enrolled, boat owners “The Small Vessel Reporting System allows boaters to pre-register with [Customs] in boaters to pre-register with Reporting System allows “The Small Vessel Small Vessel Reporting System for Puerto Rico and USVI System for Puerto Small Vessel Reporting availability of Protection announced the the US Customs and Border On May 25th, Visit Grenada’s pretty Carenage — but please don’t tie up to the lampposts! Visit Grenada’s pretty Carenage — but please don’t tie the preservation of the 31 solar lampposts on the Carenage waterfront in the historic lampposts on the Carenage waterfront in the historic the preservation of the 31 solar of entry with the float plan identification number they received when the plan was identification number they received when the plan was of entry with the float plan questions and receive clearance to enter the country. filed, answer a few Customs departure from the United States if the trip begins there or prior to their entry into departure from the United States elsewhere. that country if the trip begins order to obtain an expedited clearance upon arrival in the US,” executive director upon arrival in the US,” executive an expedited clearance order to obtain and faster.” reporting process easier said. “The [system] makes the John Wagner the Small Vessel Reporting System in areas including Puerto Rico and the US Virgin including Puerto Rico and Reporting System in areas the Small Vessel the entry program and will expedite reporting tool is a voluntary Islands. The online is open to back into US waters. The system boaters coming process for participating Canadian citizens. permanent residents, and US citizens and — JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Education Fund(CCEF).Andthinkaboutthis:comejointhefunandfund- the endofthismonth(July29th),sponsoredbyCarriacouChildren’s goods —leavethemattheCarriacouYachtClubforannualauction this: anysparepartsyoudon’tneed,cleanusedclothing,household your hauloutthishurricaneseason?Toomuchstuffonboat?Thinkabout of theLinskeys’livingexpenses. Across theSea,Inc.goestowardpayingforanyaspectofsailboatnor maintain theirsailboatwithownfunds;nopartofanydonationtoHands must gotowardyouradoptedproject.PleasenotethattheLinskeysownand site’s PayPal“Donate”buttonorinanotewithyourcheck)thatdonation for eachschoolislisted)byspecifying(eitherintheCommentsfieldoftheirweb- sea.net, findaprojectthatappealstoyou,and“adopt”it(thefundraisinggoal port —waswonderfultobehold.” for books,thepositivechange—allofitmadepossiblebydonors’generoussup- ing supplies,toruralschoolsdevastatedbyhurricanes,locallibrariesdesperate school studentsstarvedfornewbooks,toprincipalsandteachersinneedofteach- Caribbean children.Frompre-schooltokindergartenprimaryschoolhigh- hand thatHandsAcrosstheSeaisindeedmakingabigdifferenceinlivesof Dominica, St.Lucia,Vincent&theGrenadinesandGrenada,wesawfirst- local librariesandcommunitycentersonAnguilla,Antigua,St.Kitts&Nevis, rience workingon-siteintheEasternCaribbean.Wevisitedmorethan60schools, and USPeaceCorpsVolunteers. islands oftheCaribbean,workinghands-onwithlocalteachers,schoolprincipals fulfilling “WishList”requests,andthenspendNovembertoMaysailingamongthe Hands AcrosstheSea, Caribbean. In2007TLandHarrietsoldtheirhouseinMassachusettsbought ations forassistingchildren,schoolsandcommunitylibrariesintheislandsof dren byassistingschoolsandlibrariesinCaribbeancommunities. and HarrietLinskeydedicatedtoraisingtheliteracylevelsofCaribbeanchil- boat, crewandservicessiteforboaters,byboaters. for sailors. protest, uploadregattapictures,orevenfindacrew. brate everyfacetofthesport.Connectwithfellowsailors,discussarace,argue you’re acasualcruiserorcompetitiveracer,thisisplacewheresailorscancele- — Are youthinkingthatshouldbeplanningtoraiseyourwaterlineduring Carriacou Auction’sComing! For moreinformationvisitwww.handsacrossthesea.net. A greatwaytosupportHandsisgotheWishListsatwww.handsacrossthe- Of theirmostrecentcruise,Harrietsays,“ Hands AcrosstheSea Hands AcrosstheSeaisanon-profitcharitableorganizationfoundedbycruisersTL Helping HandsAcrosstheSea • Evenifyou’renotdesperate,checkout • HeadingforLosRoques?Visit • Singleandsailing?Visit • Continued frompreviouspage www.sailingspokenhere.com whichisnowtheirhome.TheLinskeysspendJunetoOctober , aDolphin460sailboat,istheLinskeys’mobilebaseofoper- LoveSail.com isawebsitelaunchedbyMt.GayRum.Whether http://losroques.org , anonlinedatingsiteandsocialnetwork Hands www.desperatesailors.com crewhadaveryproductiveexpe- . . It’safree

PAM SHANNON on page47. Integra MarineCoatingsofTrinidad,onpage9;andOceansWatchinternational to CCEF. raising! Don’tforgetthereisfreewirelessinTyrrelBay—justmakeadonation to theCCEFauction! Want toraiseyourwaterlinethishaulout?Donateunusedgear Good tohaveyouwithus! In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! For [email protected]. Caribbean Compass wewelcomeaboardnewadvertisers JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 AP , a comprehensive guidebook on Montserrat’s nature allows all WiFi enabled devices, such as laptops, iPods, iPhones, chart allows all WiFi enabled devices, uses most of the high-grade components of the original Wirie and is still high-grade components uses most of the

AP AP . AP The Wirie Red Frog Marina can handle monohulls and multihulls up to 180 feet with deep- Red Frog Marina can handle monohulls and multihulls For more information visit www.redfrogbeach.com. Montserrat Nature Guidebook Bargain A Guide to the Centre Hills For more information contact [email protected]. For more information visit www.thewirie.com. Announced New Inter-Island Ferry Service is announced every year or so, but few actually It seems that a new ferry service For more information visit www.express-des-iles.com. Panama’s Red Frog Marina new Red Frog Marina and Resort is located in Bocas Daniel Cranney reports: The The Wirie As a result of months of research, testing, development and collaboration with Alfa development and collaboration of research, testing, As a result of months Marine WiFi Perfected with The Wirie Marine WiFi Perfected fully waterproof, but contains a wireless access point (router). This “hot spot” allows the a wireless access point (router). This “hot spot” allows fully waterproof, but contains local wireless network on their boat. No Ethernet orcustomer to create his/her own unit is powered by a simple 12-volt DC electrical cable. USB cable is required and the water access all the way into the marina. All docks have floating decking with an water access all the way into the marina. All docks have is a workshop, secure stor- anchoring system engineered to 85 knots of wind. There weekly free transportation age for boat equipment, dinghies and outboards, and as well as an afford- into Bocas town. The resort offers luxury villa accommodations able jungle lodge for yacht crews. for the Protection of Birds, and wildlife written by Steve Holliday of the Royal Society 140-page full- is now available at a reduced price of EC$30. This comprehensive of the Centre Hills, which colour book provides an insight into the unique biodiversity the endemic are home to a dazzling array of plants and animals, including on the island’s eight main hik- Montserrat Oriole. The Guide also provides information ing trails and the main features on each trail. plotters and printers to connect to the local access point and share the long-range to the local access point and share the long-range plotters and printers to connect can also be shared among the different devices internet connection. Information the internet. without needing access to one does. L’Express Des Iles recently announced that get underway. We hope this begin on October 20th, offering travel between the Jeans Ferry Service will and Martinique, plus weekend charters to Dominica, St. Lucia, Guadeloupe and Nevis, St. Martin and St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Montserrat, Antigua, St. Kitts of miles from the Panama Canal on the leeward side del Toro, Panama, about 150 Isla Bastimentos. Network, Inc. (a leading provider of networking hardware), Island Consulting brings hardware), Island Consulting (a leading provider of networking Network, Inc. users: The of modern long-range WiFi that will fulfill the needs you a new product Wirie BVI offers the Caribbean’s only two-hole “chip and putt” golf course — and it’s free! “chip and putt” golf course Caribbean’s only two-hole BVI offers the a happy hour so when you enjoy by www.oceanbreezetours.com, It was donated “Thanks, Ocean Breeze!” please make sure you say, round or two, Charter Yachts: The Antigua Charter Register Now for Antigua Show Yacht Meeting has announced the opening of registration for the 50th Annual Antigua charter yacht show for agents, press, non-exhibiting vendors and yachts. Early registration discount for yachts only: yachts that register from now till August 31st will receive ten percent discount on their registration fee.

A Thinking Man’s Guide CHRIS DOYLE . This nearly 200-page that are available at www.free- that are available The Last Schoonerman, The Remarkable Life of Free Cruising Guides by Joe Russell. This history of the Atlantic and Caribbean com- by Joe Russell. This history of the Atlantic and Caribbean

, The Last Schoonerman

Free Cruising Guides Now Reformatted Free Cruising reports: The Frank Virgintino Now available is a new edition of For more information visit www.antiguayachtshow.com. New Company to Provide TTSA Training as an accredited A new local company, Marine Maven, has been appointed www.ttsailing.org. For more information visit www.marinemaven.com and Second Edition of For more information see ad on page 14. For more information see ad I am also pleased to announce the forthcoming release of I am also pleased to announce

For more information contact [email protected]. Free ‘Chip and Putt’ at Ali Baba’s located on Jost Van Dyke, Mark Denebeim reports: Ali Baba’s Restaurant and Bar BUSINESS BRIEFS BUSINESS training service provider to the Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association (TTSA). A range training service provider to the Trinidad & Tobago Sailing as part of the new of yacht and pleasure boat training courses are now available is aimed at all boat users, National Sailing Scheme in Trinidad & Tobago. The training to provide qualifica- including sailing, power and motor boating, and is designed by Marine Maven tions of an international standard. The training will be delivered Ocean Yachtmaster with (T&T) Ltd and headed by Hedge Shuter, an MCA/RYA yacht instructor at TTSA. many years experience in the training field and the senior are available from Both practical boating and shore-based navigation courses beginner to expert level. to Voyaging South: The many facets of Caribbean Cruising to Voyaging South: The many North America to the Caribbean and breaks the book covers all routes from with discussions of cruising in each quadrant. Caribbean down into four quadrants at www.freecruisingguide.com and also through the The book will be available free e-book. Amazon bookstore as a Kindle cruisingguide.com have now been released in newly formatted editions and can in newly formatted editions have now been released cruisingguide.com free. The guides PDF format — absolutely in EPUB format as well as be downloaded format at the Amazon bookstore. are also available in Kindle Captain Lou Kenedy mercial schooner trade documents the life of Captain Lou Kenedy (1910-1991), mercial schooner trade documents the life of Captain Barbados. The book has founder of the recently revived schooner race around and scores of photos. Fine been redesigned and updated with more historical detail orders for the second edition. Edge Nautical & Recreational Publishing is now taking JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 rest oftheday. got everyoneworkingparttimesotheycouldalsofixuptheirhomesduringthe After thestorm,backatstore,hemadesurehisstaffwereallaliveandthen gusts andallthepalmtreesinfrontofhousebeingrippedoutground. house whilehehadthechance,socouldwatchwindowsbowinginon behind awallbeforeitreachedhim,andtheninslightlullslipbackintothe water litteredwithscadsofdebrishurtlingtowardshim.Hemanagedtoduck side toclearsomefallengutteringwhenhelookedupandsawawallofwhite never toexperienceagain.Afterthefirsthardwinds,Jonathanhadslippedout- most intensestormever,anexperienceJonathanishappyhesurvivedbuthopes 2004, onFenella’sbirthday,andwhatapresent!Ivanturnedouttobethetenth hurricane belt.Heacceptedandstartedworktowardstheendof2002. thought. Grenadawasaverypleasantisland,andalsowaysouth,wellbelowthe when thejobofmanagingGrenadastorecameup.Jonathangaveitsome about ajobatIslandWaterWorldinSintMaarten,andwaswaitingforresponse ashore wherehecouldspendmoretimewithhiswife,Fenella.Hewasenquiring lent technicalbackgroundinracingcarsandbigyachts,butwantedsomething it, becauseJonathanisheadingbacktotheUK. half-hour beforethestoreopens.Wehavegotusedtoit,andwearegoingmiss office waybeforeanyoneelse,toanalyzetheweatherandgiveforecastagood then theoffshoreforecastforthosegoingtosea.” reports whichareintwomainsections:thefirstforthosestayingonisland, booms back:“Yes,thisisJonathanatIslandWaterWorldwiththeweather ler says,“Let’sgotoJonathanatIslandWaterWorldfortheweather.” made amajormarkonGrenada’scruising community,andwewillallmissyou. we knowyouwillfindsomethinginteresting toturnyourattentionto.Youhave where itbecameamajorattraction. home, butitsscreechingdroveFenellacrazy, soJonathanbroughtittothestore as duringthemonthswhenhelookedafter acruiser’sparrot.Atfirsthekeptitat more thandoubledinsizeandturnover. Hehasalsokepthiscustomersamused, yachts lovedit,itwasgoodforbusiness, andwhileJonathanwastherethestore to Grensave. kept abigbarrelinthestoresopeoplecoulddonatestufftheynolongerneeded bread. supermarket andLePhareBleuMarinapartneredbysupplyingthecoffee Foundation, whichhelpspeoplegetadvancedtreatmentintheUS.Foodland Wednesday ofeachmonth.TheideawastoraisemoneyfortheGrenadaHeart idea ofabook-swapcoffeemorning,whichbecamepopulareventonthefirst the store,wheresoonerorlatertheywouldspendmoney).Hecameupwith Water World(aservicethatwaswellappreciatedandbroughtmanypeopleinto boat partsoutthroughCustoms,evenwhentheydidnotoriginatewithIsland always gavegoodandknowledgeableadvice.Hewouldhelppeoplecleartheir the net! today wewillnotprosecute.”Thepartarrivedviaataxidriver.Oh,thepowerof who didit,buthaveitallonrecordourstorecamera.Ifthepartcomesback “We wantthepersonwhostolerefrigerationparttoknowwenotonly slipped outwithitintheirbag.Jonathoncameonthenextmorningandsaid, a valuablefridgepart.Theyhadtakentheitemintotoilet,unwrappedit,and proved usefulatdealingwithatheft.Someonehadwalkedoutoftheshop coordinate therescueofalocalfishingboatthatwaslostatsea.Anothertime it all overGrenadabutevendowntoTobagoandupSt.Vincent. big Grenadarepeaters,andeversincehehasboomedinloudclear—notonly munications man,hearinghispresenceontheair,invitedhimtoconnect co-opted intodoingtheweathereveryday.LeroyBaptiste,Grenada’smaincom- filling inonthesparedays.Hisdeliverywassoappreciatedthathequickly only operatingafewdaysweek.Jonathangothisradiosetupandstartedby He wasrightaboutthepleasantisland,wronghurricanes.Ivanhitin In 2002Jonathanwascruisingaroundlookingforsomework.Hehadanexcel- Most morningsJonathanhasbeengettingupatabout0500,sohecanbeinthe It is0730inGrenada,thecruisers’VHFnethasjuststartedandcontrol- Jonathan, youareheadingbacktotheUK, withitspensionsandhealthcare, Jonathan introducedIslandWaterWorld’s free,bay-wideWiFiservice.The Jonathan hasbroughttoIslandWaterWorldaclimateoffirstclassservice.He Having agoodVHFpresencehelpedinotherways.OnetimeJonathan When JonathanstartedatIslandWaterWorld,theGrenadaCruisers’Netwas

Over theyearsithasraisedmanythousandsofdollars.Jonathanalso Jonathan Fisher ‘Fair Winds’to Grenada Bids by ChrisDoyle JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9

JOHN EMMANUEL / SLTB SALLY ERDLE by Christy Recaii by Christy .

strategies projected are lengthening the stay of visitors from the average 28

From Uncharted to to Uncharted From Mainstream Waters Mainstream Other Ian Herman, Marketing Manager with responsibility for special markets, said that, But what exactly has made yachting and tourism officials confident that the local “The primary objectives are to develop and review the legislation and regulatory “The primary objectives are to develop and review the Cuthbert Didier, Director of Yachting for St. Lucia, highlighted that the yachting Cuthbert Didier, Director of Yachting for St. Lucia, highlighted It may be hard for avid yachties to grasp that the yachting sector in St. Lucia is to grasp that the yachting sector in St. Lucia It may be hard for avid yachties Christy Recaii is a Saint Lucian journalist who has a passion for sailing. She is a Christy Recaii is a Saint Lucian journalist who has a passion for sailing. She is a Above: Ian Herman, Marketing Manager of the St. Lucia Tourist Board, and Cuthbert Above: Ian Herman, Marketing Manager of the St. Lucia at increasing this country’s Didier, Director of Yachting, announced a project aimed yacht arrivals by 15 percent Below: More yachts mean more business opportunities with an expenditure by the yachting sector in 2010 estimated at US$60 million, another component of the efforts going forward is diversifying St. Lucia’s yachting beyond the ARC through marketing, particularly online. “We have identified critical websites or more important websites that we can put things like promotional ban- ners on. We will be presenting things like e-newsletters, which of course we can share with the media, but obviously they will be tailored for captains, boat charterers and crewmembers. It is critical to understand that both the captains and crew are the ones making the final decisions.” The decisions Herman is referring to are the coveted destination decisions, when keeping in mind the aimed-for 15 percent increase in yacht arrivals. yachting sector can go ‘bow to bow’ with more established markets? Certainly that can be credited to the increased figures over the past year. In 2010, a total of 32,052 persons arriving by yacht were recorded from the IGY Rodney Bay Marina — an increase of 0.2 percent from 2009, and a total of 6,383 yacht calls were made at the IGY Rodney Bay Marina — an increase of 4.3 percent from the previous year. SLASPA (St. Lucia Air and Sea Ports Authority) and SLTB only began recording data from the Marigot Bay Marina in January 2010. For that year, a total of 10,259 arrivals were recorded at that port, bringing the total number of persons arriving by yacht in 2010 to 42,311 and the total number of yachts calling at both ports to 8,446. Year to date data (January to April 2011) reveals that total arrivals for the four-month period is 18,196 — a three percent increase from 2010; 72 percent of that total (13,098) was recorded at the IGY Rodney Bay Marina. framework that can guide the yachting sector to be competitive. And when we say framework that can guide the yachting sector to be neighbors, we are looking at competitive, we are not looking at our immediate Monaco, Cannes — the Mediterranean market,” he said. sector is moving from a niche market to a strong vibrant yachting industry as the St. sector is moving from a niche market to a strong vibrant the number of visitors Lucia Tourist Board is embarking on a project to increase arriving by yacht by 15 percent. considered the underdog compared to the other aspects of the local tourism industry,considered the underdog compared its Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) has had particularly when the world-renowned for the last 20 years and the IGY Rodney Bay Marinafinish line in St. Lucian waters of the best amenities in the Eastern Caribbean. On Juneis considered to have some held by the St. Lucia Tourist Board to address just that.3rd, a press conference was St. Lucia Yachting: St. Lucia Hunter College graduate with a BA in Media Studies. You can find her either on the Hunter College graduate with a BA in Media Studies. You can find her either on the water or the docks seeking out the next marine scoop! She can be contacted at [email protected] days to three months and increasing business opportunities in areas such as boat repairs and waterfront condos. Another aspect officials are including on the agenda is what they describe as facilitating “a strong sense of law enforcement presence on the waters” as the numbers are expected to increase. JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 , Abel Centella, scien- Granma The TTGFA recently invited the popular Trini Eco Warriors group to a meeting with The TTGFA recently invited the popular Trini Eco Warriors The president of the TTGFA, Reginald MacLean, said that his committee will not The gamefishing industry has many players including the many tackle and bait Not to be forgotten are the many fishing villages all along Trinidad and Tobago’s Anyone with intimate knowledge of the subject of declining fish catch and willing to Extend your Anchor Rode! Extend your median sea levels around that Caribbean nation willCuban scientists calculate that report in the newspaper According to a June 17th Marcelino Hernandez warned of the need to protect Cuban Government scientist Demand Answers Trinidad Sportsfishermen of Trinidad and Tobago say that in recent Steven Valdez reports: Sportsfishermen NOAA’s two tsunami warning centers provide around-the-clock monitoring and around-the-clock monitoring warning centers provide NOAA’s two tsunami Sea visit http://ptwc.weather. warnings in the Caribbean For tsunami Ltd says Trinidad and Tobago consumes a very small amount of marlin, sailfish and Ltd says Trinidad and Tobago consumes a very small of marlin, sailfish, swordfish but notes that eight to 15 refrigerated containers to ten days. Wally said that swordfish and white marlin leave Trinidad every seven are approximately 15 tons when the Taiwanese boats offload in Chaguaramas, there for export and that there of billfish per boat being packed into refrigerated containers waiting to be offloaded. are more than three boats lined up at any given time & Tobago Yacht Club in TTGFA management committee members at the Trinidad to the fishermen’s cam- Bayshore, Trinidad to develop a strategy to bring awareness paign for more stringent laws relating to conservation. Both groups, along with the Tobago Game Fishing Tournament (TGFT) and the Southern Bill Fish Circuit will seek to identify the problems and meet with the relevant stakeholders to get action on this pressing matter. rest until something is done to reverse the current trend. “At the rate we are going we will not be in a position to host tournaments in years to come as there will be very few fish to catch,” he stated. TTGFA main tournaments are strict release tournaments. shops, boatbuilders and repair craftsmen, boat accessory suppliers and boatyard staff. They rely on a vibrant fishing community to pay their bank loans and earn their salary at the end of the month. coasts that rely on fishing to feed their families. Gary Aboud, President of the Fishermen and Friends Of the Sea (FFOS), which represents these fishing com- munities, adds that “for almost a decade fishermen in Tobago detected a distinct and significant drop in their catch rates during and long after marine seismic surveys were conducted. Seismic surveys involve specialized vessels towing an array of air guns and hydrophone streamers while steaming slowly along a series of pre- defined lines. The air guns create extremely loud sounds (loud enough to kill marine animals within a few metres of the source), while the hydrophones detect echoes of structures in the bedrock far below. In 2003, through the offices of the Food and Agricultural Organisation of the United Nations, FFOS became informed of scientific studies done to determine the impact of seismic surveys on bottom dwelling and pelagic (surface dwelling) commercial species. These technical studies done in Canada, USA, Norway, and the North Sea to name a few, all show a 30 to 80 percent reduction in the average abundance of catch rates during and after seismic surveys and some studies advise prohibition of seismic surveys in spawning areas, at spawning times and along migratory paths. Any seasoned fisherman will confirm that seismic surveys cause significant and unacceptable impacts on catch rates.” assist is asked to contact PRO of the TTGFA, Steven Valdez, at [email protected]. rise more than 30 inches by the end of the century due to global climate change. rise more than 30 inches by the Meteorological Institute, said that models predict tific director of the country’s centimeters) by 2050, and 33.5 inches (85 centimeters) sea will rise 10.6 inches (27 studies have projected sea levels will rise between by 2100. International scientific by the end of the century, fed by melting glaciers 30 and 75 inches (190 centimeters) will not be uniform worldwide due to currents, winds and ice caps. Sea level rises and other factors. is the effects of sea encroachment. “Right now it environments that can mitigate coral reefs, sea grass and sand beaches,” Hernandez urgent to preserve mangroves, the is a natural barrier to defend the coasts from said. “Each of these ecosystems they deteriorate, the consequences will be worse.” impact of climate change. If drop in their catch rate. Many of the fishermen that years they have seen a marked and Tobago Game Fishing Association’s (TTGFA) tourna- participate in the Trinidad say complain that it is the fault of the long-liners. They ments throughout the year our beautiful Twin Island that these mostly foreign vessels rape the waters around marlin, sailfish, kingfish and State of the pelagic fish (including but not limited to are allowed to operate in our wahoo). Many of them question why foreign long-liners and most of their catch is country since they create very little local employment of Reel Tackle and Seafood exported to foreign countries. Dominic “Wally” Wallace warning of tsunami threats for the United States and many other parts of the world. States and many other parts threats for the United warning of tsunami vast network of tsunami forecasts is a effort to deliver accurate Assisting in the transmit wave use satellite technology to detection buoys, which NOAA tsunami and water-level passes, and coastal tide warning centers as a tsunami height to the impact. to measure waves at near coastlines and harbors gauges positioned gov/?region=4.

ROD LLEWELLYN THE DOMINICA SPERM WHALE PROJECT magazine. Animal Behaviour

The tsunami threat is often overlooked in the Atlantic Basin, including the Gulf of The findings of the researchers were recently published in Caribbean Tsunami Warning Program Launched The US National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) recently According to Gero, “Just as we can tell our friends apart by the sounds of their For more information on the Dominica Sperm Whale Project visit http://whitelab. The pattern of clicks used by the sperm whales to communicate are known as The researchers have been closely following one group of sperm whales, called the The Dominican Republic and Colombia recently rejoined the IWC. The Dominican Republic and Colombia recently rejoined Researchers: Caribbean Whales Speak ‘Patois’ Project have determined A group of researchers from the Dominica Sperm Whale NGOs Support Venezuela’s Reintroduction to IWC from throughout Latin In late May, some 20 cetacean conservation organizations Caribbean countries are now able to enforce stricter standards on ships calling at Caribbean countries are now able to enforce stricter standards Disposal into the sea of food wastes shall be made as far as practicable from land, Disposal into the sea of food wastes shall be made as Now: Don’t Toss Even a Banana Peel! Now: Don’t Toss of pollu- a Special Area for the prevention Caribbean Sea became On May 1st the

New regulations will help reduce the amount of garbage in Caribbean waters New regulations will help reduce CARIBBEAN ECO-NEWS CARIBBEAN Mexico and Caribbean Sea, because catastrophic events in that region have been rare. However, in January 2010, an earthquake off the coast of Haiti generated a 10-foot high tsunami, and nearly 2,000 people were killed in 1946 when a tsunami struck the Dominican Republic. launched a new Caribbean Tsunami Warning Program, which aims to increase awareness and preparedness throughout the Caribbean. On June 10th, NOAA and its federal partners met with East Coast, Gulf and Caribbean state officials to dis- cuss tsunami warning capabilities and the need for better local preparedness. voices and the way they pronounce their words, sperm whales can identify each other by the different accents of the clicks. We also discovered that Caribbean and Pacific whales have different repertoires of codas, much like regional dialects.” biology.dal.ca/dswp. codas and the scientists realized they know which whale is speaking and they are able to recognize strangers from any region due to the sound of the codas. Codas can be heard up to one kilometer away. “group of seven”, made up of four sisters, their aunt and two juvenile males, as they fed, played and cruised off the coast of Dominica. The research team, which includ- ed Shane Gero, of Dalhousie University in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, determined that sperm whales use accents to identify themselves to others in their extended family group. Atlantic or Pacific — similar to Caribbean ‘patois’ or ‘creole’ being distinct from other regional human dialects. The researchers also discovered that baby sperm whales ‘babble’, just like human infants, before they have learned to ‘talk’ properly. that whales from the Caribbean have different ‘dialects’ than those from the North that whales from the Caribbean have different ‘dialects’ America demonstrated their support for the reintroduction of Venezuela into the America demonstrated their support for the reintroduction to the Venezuelan embas- International Whaling Commission by delivering petitions that Venezuela rejoin that sies in their respective countries. The petitions requested conservation of global whale international body, which regulates the hunting and a conservationist position, the stocks. The point was made that as a united bloc with to advance actions aimed at Latin American countries would have increased power the protection of cetaceans. ports and marinas or when they are transiting territorial waters. At the 60th session ports and marinas or when they are transiting territorial last March, it was agreed of the IMO’s Marine Environmental Protection Committee available in the Caribbean that adequate reception facilities for garbage are now area, and the provisions can be enforced. but in any case not less than 12 nautical miles from the nearest land; an exception but in any case not less than 12 nautical miles from a grinder (and are capable of being food wastes which have been passed through 25 millimetres), which shall passing through a screen with openings no greater than any case not less than three be disposed of as far as practicable from land, but in nautical miles from the nearest land. International Convention for the Prevention of Pollution from Ships, 1978 as for the Prevention of Pollution from Ships, 1978 International Convention From now on ships trad- amended, commonly known as the MARPOL Convention. from discharging any ing in the Caribbean, including pleasure craft, are prohibited products, rags, glass, metals, ship-generated garbage — including all plastics, paper sea. crockery, dunnage and packing materials — into the tion by garbage generated from ships in accordance with the provisions of the in accordance with the provisions generated from ships tion by garbage JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 Hunter 42, Carlisle Bayandracedupthewestcoast.JohnStill’s tough competition.InCruisingClassB,racesstartedin Class A,withthelocalBeneteau53 Legacy, to seeReggieWilliamsandhisSoverel43,thefamous Trudo helmingone.TheBajansailorswerealsohappy two boatsfromMartinique,withourveryfavoriteJean design fleet(15).RacingClasswashonouredtohave Cruising A(five),B(11)andtheJ/24one be foundracingineveryclass. youngest andoldestskippers,sailorsofallagescould with anagespreadofabout60yearsbetweenthe ing andfunlimingattheBarbadosYachtClub.And and MartiniquetojointheBajanboatsforgreatrac- boats fromTrinidad,Grenada,St.Vincent,Lucia Caribbean regatta,withcompetitorssailingtheir Barbados Regatta2011.ItwastrulyanEastern and westcoastsoftheislandinMountGayRum 13th through15thsaw35boatsracingalongthesouth NEWS REGATTA Four classesparticipated:Racing(fourentries), Renata Goodridgereports:TheweekendofMay Mount GayRumBarbadosRegattaaHit! sailupfromTrinidad,andracetowinCruising Perseverance, wonthatclass,enjoyingthe Rapajam giving

finishes exceptthepenultimaterace,whichhewon. the fleetandhadtobecontentwithallsecondplace place. BuswasunabletobreakBenoit’svice-likegripon Maarten’s mostsuccessfulsailor,FritsBus,intosecond Frenchman wineveryracebutonetonudgeDutchSt. ing theregattafromstarttofinish. Championships, sailingtheStandardriganddominat- ner ofthe22ndHeinekenLightCaribbeanLaser Benoit MeesemaeckerofSt.Barth’semergethewin- whole regatta. to theBarbadosYachtClub—hostandvenuefor Association, andBanksBreweries,withspecialthanks Barbados YachtClub,theSailing afternoons beforetheprizegivings. the beach,somethingsailorsenjoyedonboth coconut watervendorisalwaysabigtreatdownby sure —aswellaregattashirt!Andtherumand Mount Gayredcap—somethingthatallsailorstrea- that Vincent overRobertPovey’s place overallwenttoPhilipBarnard’s the pointspreadwasclose,andatieforsecond tight. AlthoughNeilBurke’s Grenadian andVincentiansailors,theracingwas south-coast coursesoftheotherfleets. west coastsceneryasachangefromtheBayand Superb concentration and tactical skill saw the Superb concentrationandtacticalskillsawthe In St.Maarten,thesecondweekendofJunesaw Meesemaecker isNewCaribbeanLaserChampion For fullresultsvisitwww.sailbarbados.com. Thanks gotothesponsorsMountGayDistilleries, One ofthecontinuingpleasuresthisregattais In theJ/24fleet,localboatssailedagainstTrini, every participatingsailorreceivestheregatta’s Impulse Hawkeye cameoutontop, Saltfish .

from St. PETER MARSHALL PETER

PETER MARSHALL —Continuedonnextpage on theboardwalk. racing tookplaceinfrontofTapasBarandRestaurant racing tookplaceinCarlisleBay,whileontheSunday races, allowingforoneracedrop.OntheSaturday, peted againstthelocalJ/24sailorsinatotalofeight crews fromTrinidad,GrenadaandSt.Vincentcom- Services J/24InternationalOpenRegatta.Boatsand ing andcamaraderieintheFirstCitizensInvestment racing inBarbados,withtwodaysofcompetitiverac- the hardworkthatgoesintoorganizingevent.” his ownLaser.“Itdoesgiveyouanappreciationfor another tobeaparticipant,”saidLeone,whoraced ticipant andsponsor.“It’sonethingsponsoring Leone hadtheunusualdistinctionofbeingbothapar- Yacht Club.Heineken’sManagingDirectorJohn Club OrientResortandorganizedbytheSintMaarten inter-island airfares. out tothegeneraleconomiccrisisandexpensive lowest turnoutinyears.FritsBusattributedthelowturn- could handleit,”saidRaceOfficerAndrewRapley. because everyonefromtheyoungesttooldest Sunday. “ItwasidealconditionsforLaserracing, leeward courseontheSaturdayandthree ten knots.Sixraceswererunoverthewindward- Sunday, producingasoutheasterlybreezeofabout Fondeur tookthirdplace. ular stalwartRienKortekniewassecondandHenry Ernst Looser,withStéphaneFerroninthirdplace. won theRadialClass,aheadofSt.Maartensailmaker Lehoux (16years),alsofromtheDominicanRepublic, Dominican Republic’s17-year-oldSebastianBros.Manuel to sailLasers.” good shapeandFritsisalsoin—needed would havepreferredmorewind,becauseI’min remarked Benoit,whofinishedsecondlastyear.“I The weekendofJune11thand12thsaw14J/24s Barbados HostsJ/24InternationalOpenRegatta The regattawassponsoredbyHeinekenLightand The regattasawjust15sailorsparticipating—the Light conditionsprevailedbothonSaturdayand Winners ineachclasswonAntoineChaponpaintings. François deCorlienwontheMastersCategory,reg- Third placeintheStandardClasswentto “I wasmoreconsistentthisyearthanlastyear,” JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 —Continued on next page Legs of this year’s regatta will take the fleet from regatta will take the fleet Legs of this year’s [email protected]. For more information contact Carriacou Coming ‘Just Now’: The 46th will celebrate its 46th The Carriacou Regatta Festival as a small racing event in This regatta started in 1965 Other aspects of the festival include donkey racing, established. The Saintoise must be unsinkable. Its over- Saintoise must be unsinkable. established. The beam 1.8 be 5.35 meters, maximum all length shall length 6.50 7.25 metres and boom metres, mast height than design is said to be less important metres. But hull a crew that sails the boat. Steering the five-person job in its stone ballast, is a tricky Saintoise, with unsheltered waters. Bouillante, Morne-à-l’eau, Sainte-Rose, Pointe-à-Pitre to St. François haut, Marie Galante (St. Louis), Baillif, Terre de at each destination. and Gosier, with celebrations Regatta Festival August 1st, with anniversary from July 24th through Carriacou sloops and races for international yachts, the Grenadines. The two- open boats from throughout for yachts is always handed round-the-island race a favorite. has now grown to Hillsborough Bay. The festival summer festival in the become the largest annual weekend each region. Held over the Emancipation variety of sporting and year, it now includes a wide race events focus main- cultural activities. The regatta built workboats with some ly on locally and regionally ranging from 14 to 35 or 12 different classes of boats, islands include sister more feet in length. Participating islands Grenada and Petite Martinique; also Antigua and Tobago; as well as Canouan, Mayreau and Bequia from the Saint Vincent Grenadines; and of course, host island, Carriacou. greasy pole, road races, Miss Wet T-Shirt, and the Miss Aquaval Queen Pageant, with participation from Trinidad, Tobago, Grenada, Barbados, Canouan, Union Island and Carriacou.

STEPHANE LEGENDRE in PM to AM to 1:00 AM on the Sunday. on the Sunday. PM and on the Sunday from 9:00 and on the Sunday PM The 10th annual Round Guadeloupe Race in tradi- The public is welcome to the event to meet the to the event to meet The public is welcome Tom Gerker at (284) For more information contact Traditional Sailing Canoes Round Guadeloupe Race in racing around the The revival of traditional boat Caribbean is a reminder of the nautical traditions of our islands, and also a beautiful way to get young islanders involved in sailing. tional “Saintoise” sailing canoes will take place from July 9th through 17th under the ISAF Racing Rules of Sailing, organized by the Comité Guadeloupéen de Voile Traditionnelle. Strict rating rules have been competitors and watch the action. There will be a VIP watch the action. There competitors and to see the out on the course boat to take spectators sailing up close. 340-8581 or Regatta 494-2830, John Lewis at (284) 494-1407. Chairman Brent Brydon at (284) 3:00 O’Neal, at the Welcome Reception at Peg Leg Welcome Reception at Peg O’Neal, at the Multiple Nanny Cay Resort & Marina. Restaurant at on the Saturday from 9:00 races will be run Drake’s Passage. The Awards Ceremony will take The Awards Ceremony Drake’s Passage. place at 3:00 Fully , whose Fadeaway and Bruce Bailey’s Banks Esperanza , with the former winning by just one point. Third, with the former winning by just [email protected] www.carriacouregatta.com [email protected] Continued from previous page Continued from Teams arrive the Friday afternoon, to be welcomed The event is the only youth team sailing event in the From July 8th through 10th, Kids And The Sea (KATS) From July 8th through 10th, For full results visit www.j24barbados.com. Youth Regatta 13th Premier’s Cup International Special thanks also go to sponsors First Citizens Special thanks also go to sponsors First and second place were tightly contested between place were tightly contested First and second Tapas’ second floor was host to the VIP lounge for floor was host to the VIP lounge Tapas’ second that evening by Premier, the Honourable Ralph T. Caribbean and brings together young people between the ages of ten and 18 for a weekend of fel- lowship and competition. This year nine teams will be attending, from Anguilla, Antigua, Grenada, Puerto Rico, St. Croix, St. Lucia, St. Thomas, Tortola, and the United States. BVI along with the Rotary, Rotaract and Interact Clubs BVI along with the Rotary, Rotaract Digicel, will host the of the BVI, and Platinum Sponsor International Youth 13th Annual Premier’s Cup Regatta at Nanny Cay Marina, Tortola. This Month Investment Service, Powerade, Banks Beer, the Investment Service, Powerade, Insurance, and to Barbados Yacht Club and United Anne Tindale and intrepid race committee members Peter Burke. Ian Mayers’ Covered place was taken by Russell Corrie’s the unofficial “Bump andskipper Charlie Gloumeau won of the breakers in front ofTack” award during a tack out the daily sponsorBlakey’s Boardwalk Bar and Restaurant, for Saturday’s racing in the Bay. spectators and sponsors. The Sunday racing was sponsors. The Sunday racing spectators and everyone Goodridge, allowing emceed by Renata was going to understand what along the boardwalk as there water. This was a great idea, on out on the sailors and positive feedback from both was plenty of racing watched the (very) nearshore non-sailors who from land. — JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 FREE CRUISINGGUIDES Compliments of Marina M www.caymanislandscruisingguide.com www.trinidadruisingguide.com www.jamaicacruisingguide.com www.haiticruisingguide.com www.dominicanrepubliccruisingguide.com Boca Chica, DominicanRepublic www.marinazarpar.com Cruising Guide Cayman Islands Cruising Guide Trinidad Cruising Guide Jamaica Cruising Guide Haiti Cruising Guide Dominican Republic Zar-Par Open boats Championship trophywillbeawardedtothewinningteam. second andthirdprizeswillbegivenineachclasstheCSADinghy Optimist (age11andunder),Sport16sOpen(twopersons)jibmainonly.First, unique toBelizesuchasthesandlighters,sailingdoriesandsloops. and GrandFleetSailingforyoungadultsolder,tosailthetraditionalcraft have beeninitiatedasfollows:ProjectOptimistfornineto14yearoldboysandgirls course. Twocoreprojectstoprovide“meaningfulactivity”foryouthandadults to developsailingasasportinBelizeandparticipateinternationaleventsdue universal codeofracingruleswasagreeduponandimplemented. ment thatneitherwouldchangeitsruleswithoutfirstinformingtheother.In1960,a North AmericanYachtRacingUnionwordeditsrulesequally,andreachedagree- Yacht RacingUnion(IRYU)wasformedbymostEuropeancountries.By1929,the Association developedasetofrulesforBritishwaters.In1906,theInternational ferent countriescouldnotcompeteonequalterms.In1881,theYachtRacing confusion overdifferentmeasurementstandards.Consequently,sailboatsfromdif- ing theabilitytoparticipateinglobalsailingeventsandutilizeallISAFservices. and theCaribbean.Belizenowhasfullaccesstoallbenefitsofmembershipinclud- Group O,whichincludes24countriesofNorthandSouthAmerica,CentralAmerica governing bodyforsailing.Belizehasbeenallocated,bygeographiclocation,tothe Sailing Association(BzSA)tobecomeafullMemberNationalAuthorityoftheworld Yacht Club. — Final RegistrationwillbeonAugust19thfrom9:00 Classes willincludeLaserOpen,RadialZoom8(age16andunder), The BelizeSailingAssociationwasformedonFebruary17th,2010,withaspirations Prior to1870,individualyachtclubsdevelopedtheirownsetsofrules,creating The CounciloftheInternationalSailingFederation(ISAF)hasapprovedBelize Belize JoinstheInternationalSailingFederation For moreinformationvisitwww.antiguayachtclub.com. Continued frompreviouspage Hurricane and Ace racinginCarriacou AM

to7:00 DAVON BAKER DAVON Sailing Association. tioned bytheCaribbean and theregattaissanc- the AntiguaYachtClub, The OrganisingAuthorityis through 21stinAntigua. be heldfromAugust19th Dinghy Championshipswill Championships forAugust see adonpage13. traditional festival. a trueCaribbean invites youtoexperience Festival Committee The 2011Caribbean 2011 CaribbeanDinghy For moreinformation The CarriacouRegatta PM attheAntigua JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 There are stakeholder-based security initiatives going onThere are stakeholder-based security initiatives going “ • “BUREAUCRACY!” — especially Customs clearance regulations — say cruising • “BUREAUCRACY!” — especially Customs clearance bureaucracy have not yet Perhaps shedding light on why the problems of crime and Addressing the Crime Problem • Is the problem of crime being addressed? If so, how? Hubert Winston says, Crime is identified as one of the Caribbean yachting industry’s biggest problems. Crime is identified as one of is increasing, but more needs to be done Stakeholders say awareness guide author Chris Doyle; John Duffy, Past President of the Antigua & Barbuda guide author Chris Doyle; John Duffy, Past President it up: “One point that can give Marine Association; and Isabelle Prado. Isabelle sums clearance procedures between yachting a big help would be a great reduction in the fees.” the different islands and standardization of the Customs Budget Marine been solved, Robbie Ferron, Group Manager of the Caribbean-wide people do not see the value chandleries, says, “The biggest problem is that Caribbean they have not experienced the of the industry, probably because with few exceptions in numbers to influence benefits of the industry. The beneficiaries are insufficient industry rhetorically.” governments any more than getting them to support the yards are jamming them in so close together that if a hurricane comes there will be that if a hurricane comes them in so close together yards are jamming marina liability selling yacht yard and boss asked me to investigate disasters. My ask my worst few exceptions I would not the Caribbean. With very insurance in insurance.” yacht yard or marina liability enemy to give Association of YachtCaribbean-wide, such as those provided by the Portsmouth are at small interest-groupSecurity and the Dominica Marine Association, but these security more seriously.” level. The local police and governments need to take tourist —Continued on next page Don warns that another sort of economic impact could be on the horizon. Don warns that another sort of economic impact Isabelle Prado of Mermer Location yacht charters in Martinique adds, “Airfares are Isabelle Prado of Mermer Location yacht charters in Martinique Dale adds, “The escalating cost of fuel is having a definite effect on the industry. Dale adds, “The escalating cost of fuel is having a definite Frank states, “The biggest problem facing the yacht service industry is the world- Frank states, “The biggest problem facing the yacht service • “THE ECONOMY!” say Frank Virgintino, a cruising guide author who is also • “THE ECONOMY!” say Frank Virgintino, a cruising • “CRIME!” chorused Robert Phillips, Managing Director of Doyle Sailmakers in the Phillips, Managing Director of Doyle Sailmakers in the • “CRIME!” chorused Robert The Big Problems is the biggest single problem facing the Caribbean We asked, “In your view, what Summer 2011 is a good time to look at the “big picture” of the time to look at the “big picture” of the Summer 2011 is a good “Increasing numbers of boats are stored ashore during hurricane season. Some “Increasing numbers of boats are stored ashore during very expensive and this is a brake to our development.” We are about mid-point between South Florida and the Panama Canal, and what We are about mid-point between South Florida and to the canal is now only a was once a continuous stream of motor yachts heading trickle.” wide recession. I have been in the marina and service business all my life, and reces- wide recession. I have been in the marina and service a luxury. This year at the sions hit very hard on boatowners as boats are considered and Canadian boats marina in the DR, US-flagged boats were almost non-existent marine service businesses in short supply. This represents a big problem for the loss of service jobs hurt the because fixed costs remain the same and vacancies and bottom line.” associated with Marina Zarpar in the Dominican Republic; Dale Westin, General associated with Marina Zarpar in the Dominican Republic; and yacht insurance broker Manager of Jamaica’s Errol Flynn Marina; and author Don Street. BVI; Hubert Winston, Managing Director of Dominica Marine Center; Ian Cowan, Director of Dominica Marine Center; Ian Cowan, BVI; Hubert Winston, Managing Water World St. Lucia; and Donald Stollmeyer, Managing General Manager of Island Yachts have a powerful communication network Director of Powerboats in Trinidad. is reportedly a problem have suffered profound eco- and destinations where crime nomic losses. yachting industry today?” Caribbean yachting industry — the enterprises that support recre- Caribbean yachting industry region. We asked several key figures in this ational sailing in the on its current problems and strengths. There sector for their views — had already given this much thought was no doubt that they all back almost immediately. Many thanks to responses were fired who participated. THE CARIBBEAN CARIBBEAN THE NOW INDUSTRY YACHTING the Problem? What’s the Strength?) (And What’s JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 com. GrenadaandSt.Vincent&theGrenadinesareholdingtalkstoseewhatthey and notfeelyouhavetoexpand,expand?” programs andspaceatthenorthernboatshows.” This canbedonebyhavinga—orthemarineassociationworkingonshared sort outtheirhurricaneseasonstorageandfire-fightingstrategiesthemselves.” only answer[totheproblemoffuelprices].” the Caribbean(inmostplaces)isveryaffordable.” to theCaribbeanbecausefinanceshavebecometight.Weneedshowthemthat displays atboatshows,notless.Manycruisershaveputofftheirdreamofcoming exhibitors fromtheCaribbean.Wheneconomydeclines,theremustbemore ers totheCaribbean.Lastyearatnorthernboatshowcircuittherewereveryfew insist thattheyardsandmarinashaveproperliabilityinsurance.” addressed, anditwon’tbeuntilthereisamajordisasterorthelocalgovernments industry doesnothavetheconsolidatedeconomicandpoliticalclouttoseekhelp.” countries candotoeducatetheirpopulations.” and allowthattobeusedasacourtdocumentinlatertrial.” suspect, withthetouristactuallytheretoprovideevidencebeforeajudge.” stakeholder-based securityteamstogivethemsupportandcoverage.” problem areas”andHubertwouldliketosee“localpoliceteamingupwiththesmall courts, pushingtheconceptofeconomicprosperitywhenthereislowornocrime.” various governmentstoprovideprotection.” value oftheyachtingindustrytotheireconomies,andarebeingmandatedby that “thepoliceandcoastguardarebecomingmoreawareoftheproblem be addressed,butnotmuchhasactuallybeendoneyet,”DonaldStollmeyerfeels — Chris Doylesays,“EntryprocedureshavebeenmadeabiteasierwitheSeaClear. • Istheproblemofbureaucracybeingaddressed?Ifso,how? Addressing theBureaucracyProblem Don: “Whynotjustdoareallygoodjobofrunningwhateverbusinessyouarein, Dale: “Morefolkswillswitchtosail[inreactionhighfuelprices].” Frank: “Themarineindustryneedstoagreeonhowproceedattractbusiness. • Don: “Tosolvetheproblemofdisasterrisk,yachtyardsandmarinasshould Dale Westin:“Alternativefuelsand/ornewmethodsofpropulsionareprobablythe Frank: “ThevariousCaribbeancountriescouldcreateadvertisingtobringcustom- • WhatIDEALLYcouldbedonetosolvetheeconomicproblems? Don Street:“Theproblemofdisasterriskintheyachtingindustryisnotbeing Frank Virgintino:“Theproblemoftherecessionisnotbeingaddressed,asmarine • Aretheproblemsrelatedeconomybeingaddressed?Ifso,how?” Addressing theEconomicProblems Bob urges,“Writearticlesaddressingtheissueandoutliningpositivethings Ian says,intheabsenceofnightcourts,“Acceptavideotourist’sevidence Donald andHubertfeelthattheiridealsolutionsarealsorealistic. • WhatREALISTICALLYcanbedonetosolvethecrimeproblem? Ian suggests“nightcourtstoprovidetheinstanthearingofcaseagainst Donald advocates“establishmentofmarinepolicetopatrolandtakeactionin Bob Phillips:“Thetouristboardsshouldbepressuringthepolicedepartmentsand • WhatIDEALLYcouldbedonetosolvethecrimeproblem? And whileIanCowansays,“Thereisanawarenessinthesystemthatcrimehasto Continued frompreviouspage What REALISTICALLYcanbedonetosolvetheeconomicproblems? greatest strength The warm,natural,famousCaribbeanitselfisrecognizedastheyachtingindustry’s

—Continuedonnextpage to Customs.ESeaClearmakesiteveneasier.” inward clearanceisalsoyouroutwardclearance:youcanleavewithoutgoingback and PortAuthority.Then,aslongyouarenotstayinglongerthantwoweeks,your Unless youarechangingcrewonlyvisitCustoms—theytakecareofImmigration and shouldhappeninall.”Chrisconcurs:“Dominicaiswayaheadofthegamehere. dealing withCustoms,ImmigrationandPortAuthority.Ithappensinsomeislands one islandallowingentrytoall.” is availabletothem.”JohnDuffytakesitastepfurther:“Havesystemofentry WORLD CRUISING CLUB can checkwhenyouleftbyseeingandwhereclearedinnext.Allthisdata Outward clearanceisalsoabitredundantontheeSeaClearsystem,asofficials able todispensewithoutwardclearancealtogetherforshortstays(saytwoweeks). account couldbeheldateSeaCleartomakethenecessarypayments.Weshould and neverhavetoactuallygointoCustomsunlessspeciallyrequested.Acreditcard can doaboutbecomingacommonyachtingspace.” John Duffy:“[Yachtsshouldbeabletoclearinwith]oneform,andperson • WhatREALISTICALLYcouldbedonetosolvethebureaucracyproblem? Chris: “WeshouldbeabletorunwiththeeSeaClearideaanddoeverythingonline, • WhatIDEALLYcouldbedonetosolvethebureaucracyproblem? JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 Caribbean working together at whole What could be done to optimize the strength of the Caribbean’s environment? done to optimize the strength What could be Don Stollmeyer: “[Ideally and realistically] the Caribbean Sea needs to be protected the Caribbean Sea needs “[Ideally and realistically] Don Stollmeyer: Service Sector Strength of the Yacht Optimizing the optimize the strength of the yacht service sector? If so, • Are steps being taken to as that the resource is noted for each place and put out Ian Cowan: “Only in as far that want to survive this tough economic cycle are Bob Phillips: “The companies to optimize the strength of the yacht service sector? • What IDEALLY could be done to see that there is a market for their services, and Ian: “Encourage local people private and public sector, would try to be more wel- Bob: “Ideally everyone, both John Duffy: “A unified approach from the • • What REALISTICALLY could be done to optimize the strength of the service sector? above lines. For example, it Ian: “Just try to do as much as possible along the venue will happen when Dale Westin: “Optimization of the Caribbean as a yachting answer: More advertising Frank Virgintino: “Ideally and realistically, it’s the same that can work to unify the John: “Make the Caribbean Marine Association a body the strengths of the Robbie Ferron takes us back to square one: to optimize through stringent antifouling laws, anchoring laws in sensitive areas, and education, laws in sensitive areas, antifouling laws, anchoring through stringent and realis- ecosystem.” Chris: “[Ideally local people, about the marine particularly of and think a serious look at their resources countries need to take tically] Caribbean for boating. in areas accessible more coastal land, especially about conserving we need to think and protected; now been successfully preserved Rainforests have all changed beyond recognition.” coastal areas before it has more about our what are they? effort is being made via the tourist boards and other as a public sort of display. Some the yacht magazines, but not by the local newspapers concerned entities, including and explain the sector’s benefits.” that could get to the population to keep the customers they have and to attract new ones. improving customer service I attitude change this year in Antigua, where everyone I was very impressed with the a of several visits, both marine and non-marine, had interacted with over the course me, and seemingly genuinely wanted to help. There positive attitude, smiled, greeted surveys at the airport in early June asking what visitors was even a group doing exit be doing to improve. Antigua is having a tough time liked and what the island could using the experience to improve their product.” since Stanford folded, but is direct to the yachts; just be certain that each business offer the services available has a good reputation.” services.” coming and provide better op as customer satisfaction repeatedly does not match up to expectations.” satisfaction repeatedly does op as customer Together, the Caribbean can shows, and with joint advertising and joint promotions. attract more yachts.” with a weekly column in the would not be hard to raise local awareness of the sector local papers.” the USA lifts its 50-year travel ban on Cuba.” costs, and participation in the for the Caribbean with regard to the climate and the to generate interest.” boat shows in the United States, Canada and Europe a very little funding from each Caribbean’s approach to the yachting world. With just island’s government, it would make a big difference.” problems; realistically they Caribbean yachting industry we need to “deal with the be that to deal with our prob- are not hard to identify.” And the consensus seems to industry will be the key. lems and optimize our strengths, unity in the yachting the islands — all of to “Our greatest strength is the Caribbean “Our greatest strength is the

“THE CARIBBEAN!” was a not surprising response, evoking its marine environ- “THE CARIBBEAN!” was a Continued from previous page Continued from Ian Cowan says, “The best thing that yachting has to offer Ian Cowan says, “The best the contrary, the brand is Robbie Ferron, on the Caribbean name, says, “No, on • “YACHT SERVICES!” As Don Street points out, “A double strength is the avail- • “YACHT SERVICES!” As preserve the natural beauty Chris Doyle says, “Some attempt has been made to Frank Virgintino: “The biggest single strength of the Caribbean yacht industry is single strength of the Caribbean yacht industry Frank Virgintino: “The biggest Optimizing the Strength of ‘The Caribbean’ Caribbean”, i.e. its environ- • Are steps being taken to optimize the strength of “the • strength is the branding ‘Caribbean’ when associatedRobbie Ferron: “The greatest the French islands’ yachtingInterestingly, Isabelle Prado adds: “The main strength of The Big Strengths The Big Strengths greatest single yachting industry’s your view, what is the Caribbean We asked, “In On the issue that Caribbean people generally do not see the value of the yachting indus- do not see the value of the Caribbean people generally On the issue that being allowed to be compromised by the many negative stories that inevitably devel- being allowed to be compromised by the many negative ability of gear and the availability of some of the finest tradesmen in the world (if the of some of the finest tradesmen in the world (if ability of gear and the availability out)” and Bob Phillips elaborates: “We have a wide sailor is willing to search them As the quality of services ranges from abysmal to world range of products to offer. the lot of effort to be in the top percentile, our strength is class and it doesn’t take a customer service.” ease with which we can improve Tobago Cays is an excellent both below and above the water with marine parks; are so strong that example. However, all too often the pressures for development will get covered in concrete.” more and more of the places we consider outstanding climate and competitive pricing (compared to the States, Canada and Europe)” and (compared to the States, Canada and Europe)” climate and competitive pricing “We have an excellent combination of lovely anchor- Chris Doyle underscores this: — which brings us to… ages and good yacht services” ment and name? If so, what are they? ment, its beauty and climate, and its fame. ment, its beauty and climate, with sailing.” However, it’s a very fragile situ- industry is that there is no important problem with security. If there are too many securityation and local governments must be very attentive to this. disappear in one season.” problems in our area, the good activity that we have now can strength today?” harbours, reefs, coastal areas, etcetera,” says Donald Sea, including the bays, to “The industry is lucky in that we are easy to get Stollmeyer. Bob Phillips says, and Dale Westin states, “Yachts in the Caribbean when the weather is bad elsewhere” in the world.” enjoy the most beautiful venue have a lot of people on them them — is the fact that yachts have to be cared for. They are very much more inclined who have to buy produce and products of all kinds and ship guests. They employ a to eat at a shoreside restaurant than any hotel or cruise directly in cash. These service large number of technical service guys, and pay them of isolated places with little providers are the breadwinners of their families in a lot hope of work other than on the yachts.” try and therefore do not influence their governments to support it, Robbie Ferron says, to support it, Robbie do not influence their governments try and therefore major efforts addressed is minimal. Ideally, which this problem is being “The extent to unsure of success but realistically this is to ‘sell’ the industry to the people, could be made John agrees: by investors are not present.” funding and motivation and the required More is being the value of yachting tourism. have been slow to recognize “Governments its value.” near enough compared with the product, but nowhere done to promote — JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 36-foot catamaransupposedlyholds18GTofcargo,thusImustpayUS$38perday than 35yearsago.Thus,catamaranscostmoremonohullsofequallength.My is ameasurementdesignedforcommercialvesselsandwasfirstimplementedmore displaces orweighs,itisthevolumeofyourhypotheticalinteriorcargospace.This permit bytheGrossTonnage(GT)ofyourvessel.GTisnothowmuchboat yacht feesofanyislandintheCaribbean.Theydeterminecostyourcruising visit soonandtellthemCaptainMarksentyou! is muchtoenjoy,including33beaches,onthistinysunnyisland,somakesure to moveheresoon,becauseofthepeopleandtheirenthusiasticlustforlife.There any boatofthatsizeincreation. tional woodenboatswithmovablesandbagandironballastmoresailareathan area. AnguillaDay,May30th,featuresanaround-the-islandraceon28-foottradi- cricket andgoodfood.Theircarnival,inAugust,isreputedtobethebiggest everywhere andareusedtopriceitemsherein. permitted. ThecurrencyisEasternCaribbean(EC),butUSdollarsareaccepted cane hole,andnolargecruiseshipscomehere.Jet-skisspearfishingarenot spirit remainswiththepopulacetoday.Thereisnomarinaonisland,hurri- Above andright:MakinglikeTheBachelor andjumpingoffthecliffsatLittleBay ‘There ismuchtoenjoy,including33beaches,onthistinysunnyisland…’ byMarkDenebeim Anguilla hassomearcaneandillogicalcruisingrequirementsthehighest Customs andtheCruisingPermit Many familieshavebeenvisitingforyears,andImetafewpeoplewhoareplanning Anguillians arefriendly,accommodatingpeoplewithaloveofsailing,music, A Captain Mark’s Cruising Guide government underEnglishrule,sortofacounter-revolution,andthis of about13,000inhabitants.In1967,Anguilliansfoughttokeeptheir British colony,Anguillaisasmall,low(peakelevation220feet)island Independent to Anguilla

DESTINATIONS C’mon over!’Theauthorand there (open8:00 island. Thus,thepreferredCustomsofficeisinRoadBay.Ifyouclearandout Point isadifficultandexposedcommercialanchorageonthesouthsideof days, inmycase2x$53=$106. approved overnightanchorageotherthanSandyGround,youwillbechargedfortwo and usethemooringsthereornot!IfyoustayovernightinCrocusBay,only $15 perdayfortheNationalMarineParkpermit,whetheryouvisitanyoftheirparks for theprivilegeofcruisingAnguillianwaters;over20GT,add$5.Allyachtsalsopay tie uptooclosetothebeachwhereitisshallow. dock; thenorthisreservedforcommercialboats.Bewaresternanchorsanddonot longer ridetothedinghydock.Dinghiesshouldtieupsouthsideofpolice bay, awayfromthemusic,butifthereisaswell,itmorenoticeableand where itgetsshallowabout100yardsout.Anchoringisokayonthewestsideof lasting pastmidnight(theyareclosedTuesdays).Don’tgettooclosetotheland Mist the cargoships,wheninport,makequitearacket;everyMondaymorning there areseveralbrightwhitelightsshiningfromthecommercialdockatnightand There isnogoodsnorkelinginRoadBay. close reachtoRoadBay,withashortstopatSandyIslandifyouhavethetime. and sailingonstarboardfivemileswesttoPricklyPearCays,visitthere,then large shoal-draftboatsdoincalmseas.Instead,Irecommendroundingthepoint to SandyGround.DonotattemptintersectAnguillitaandthemainlandas the corneratAnguillitaandeast-northeastwindsareonnoseforsixmiles accommodate thebigspenders! restricted anchoringrulesarenottoprotecttheseabottom,theydesigned waters. Withanagent,youmayanchoranywherebutthemarineparks.Thus, the commercialdockwillalsoclearyouinorout.) be chargednothing;that’sright, and don’tleavetheanchorageexcepttoarrivedepartAnguillianwaters,youwill —Continuedonnextpage anchoring ispermitted. visited, butitwasclearerwitheachsubsequentvisit.NextdoorisCrocusBay,where treatment. ThecoralwascoveredwithsandandthewatercloudyfirsttimeI ashore tothetinybeachrubmudfromwallsontoyourskinasanaturalspa shore. Youcanjumpoffthecliff,snorkelamongstturtlesandtarpon,go from RoadBay,andhasaboutsixmooringballsadinghycloserto overnight atanyoftheparks. large northerlyswellrunning.Beadvisedthatyouarenotallowedtoanchorormoor There areonlytwoplacestoclearinandout:BlowingPointRoadBay. This location,however,issubjecttotheloudmusicfromElvis’BeachBar,often In RoadBay,trytofindaspotclosetheSnakeHeadPointsideofbayas Sailing fromFrenchSt.Martin,itisanicefive-orsix-milereachuntilyouturn Cruising AnguillaWaters Mega-yachts canhireanagenttorepresenttheirinterestswhileinAnguillian • LITTLEBAY,whereTheBachelorjumpedoffthecliffwithhisdate,isthreemiles The marineparksareworthvisiting,ifyouwanttopaythefeesandthereisnota blastsitshornseveraltimesandoffloadscargo. AM to4:00 PM Sanctuary daily,withanhourofffromnoonto1:00 nada . (Iftheofficialsareoutsomewhere,thoseat inAnguilla PM forlunch), Tropic JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19

STEPHANE LEGENDRE at

in Cove Bay, has a live band sets up his excellent roadside ,

. ) Jazz on the Beach. Sammy’s, next door to Johnno’s, is home ) Jazz on the Beach. Sammy’s, , later on weekends. Call (264) 582-6688 to order out, or just , later on weekends. Call (264) PM PM as he sails throughout the Caribbean. For more information visit Sanctuary For more information on Anguilla, see www.anguilla-beaches.com, where a For more information on Anguilla, see www.anguilla-beaches.com, where a Anguilla is fun and tasty, and is worth at least a two-day trip from St. Martin. You Captain Mark Denebeim offers charters and is writing articles and his memoirs Other restaurants with beachfront views worth a look include The Sand Bar, worth a look include with beachfront views Other restaurants Murray’s Jamaican Jerk Centre, a relatively new spot, is a laid-back beach bar and a relatively new spot, is a laid-back beach bar and Murray’s Jamaican Jerk Centre, Along the road separating the salt pond from the bay are a few other places worth salt pond from the bay are a few other places worth Along the road separating the On Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, Kenny House, Dolce Vita, and Free WiFi can be found at Elvis’, The Sand Bar, The Pump Other Good Eats rib barbecue tents on week- The west side of Anguilla is home to D & B’s six-dollar For direct transportation to the St. Martin airport ($380) or to St. Barth’s ($1,800), Marine Supplies, Etcetera Ltd, on Dolly Hill (264 There is only one marine store, called Anguilla Techni-Sales Blowing Point, so fill Anguilla has no water or fuel dock, except cruiser-unfriendly your problem, but without For a mechanic, call Troy at (264) 235-5278 to diagnose not very low, prices. Albert Lake’s Hardware Store has the lowest, though but they have no gal- There is a good-sized Ace Hardware next to the roundabout though a new combination Albert’s, in The Valley, is the biggest grocery store of interest unless you Other than Irie Life and Why Knot, there is little shopping Valley, so it’s best to rent Taxis are expensive here, $20 from Sandy Ground to The Take time for a stop at little Sandy Island (264) 235-7902. www.oceanbreezetours.com and hats and the social scene has a nice mix of locals, visitors and regulars. There mix of locals, visitors and the social scene has a nice and hats and Bowl along with (I was there for the Super screen for watching sports is a six-foot TV serve passable on the beach. While they folks) and you are right about 200 other the best time to $16 chicken wings), so expensive ($14 hamburgers, food, it is a bit when a dinner (eat at Murray’s), especially and later at night after visit is at sunset a great guy who decent music and Elvis is It has a great vibe with band is playing. my cat many times. has sailed on young gal from Montreal covers many areas of the island from her and her young gal from Montreal covers many areas of the island from her and her family’s experiences. will easily make friends, both with locals and with visiting tourists from the resorts who often frequent the Sandy Ground bars. Make sure you tell them all that Captain Mark sent you! aboard where a former CuisinArt chef has created a nice upscale reasonably-priced ($7 to a nice upscale reasonably-priced CuisinArt chef has created where a former Johnno’s, which especially on weekends; that is very popular, $9) tapas restaurant is and has a thumping late-night band on Fridays, has been there for 27 years (average food), but is better known for the Sunday after- sometimes open for lunch noon (12:30 to 4:00 to good ribs on Friday and Saturday, domino-playing fanatics and sports a ring-toss Saturday, domino-playing fanatics and sports a ring-toss to good ribs on Friday and has The Barrel Stay, which is very intimate and pricey, game that I installed for him. soup, wahoo) on the island. Newcomer Dolce Vita offers some of the best food (fish or in the homemade pasta, try the $18 lasagna nice Italian food (duck reduction atmosphere and is open for lunch and dinner every seafood pasta) in a bright cheery is (great hamburger) never disappoints though this day but Sunday. Roy’s food catamarans take their guests when the swells make where the large St. Martin it is located right next to the commercial dock, which Prickly Pear untenable and can be annoying. ribs with Jamaican “Carnival” buns, $6 jerk chicken, restaurant, offering tasty $8 (stew), and other Jamaican specialties, and drinks, every exceptional $5 Goat Water day, noon to 10:00 show up! Look for the two flagpoles with the Anguillian and Jamaican flags flapping with the Anguillian and Jamaican flags flapping show up! Look for the two flagpoles in the breeze. grocery store (264 497-3180) and inn on the salt pond knowing about. Syd/An’s you get a rental car (Bass is (clean rooms for about $45 to $60 per night) will help from The Valley, and if you the best), find and deliver just about anything you need top up your Lime account, ask nicely, will do your laundry. Three C’s market can supplies. but both Syd/An’s and Three C’s have very limited grocery rack of ribs, $3 chicken legs barbecue takeout across from the police station, with $6 school, offers $3 chicken and $6 conch soup. The Recession Bar, behind the sailing me an offer” cocktails, pro- kebabs, $2 beers, $5 chicken or pea soup and “make white tent between the road vided by “Mama” Cassie and served from beneath a big and a reputation for good food and the beach. Ripples has a two-for-one happy hour though I didn’t eat there. a year so bring cash. Roy’s. The ATM in Sandy Ground hasn’t worked for over a bit expensive. The Klassic ends and there is fine seaside dining at Mango’s, though while seated in semi-enclosed Café has intimate quality dining at a reasonable price shutter and polished wood table enclaves. Smokey’s or just about anything else (with a fleet of six boats), contact Garfield’s Sea Tours every Saturday 1200-1600 (but pricey food). I didn’t get to the east side of the island every Saturday 1200-1600 (but pricey food). I didn’t get main road (George Hill Rd.) so I can’t comment on places there but if you are on the Hut for great $6 or $7 rotis overlooking the airport, check out Mala’s Cottage Roti and if you see Hungry’s coach (but add $5 for plantains and salad), Guyanese style, fish and meat pastas and $5 in The Valley, he makes nice low cost ($10 to $12) soups to go. for yachts. It is owned 497-2419), which has a limited supply of parts and supplies Rebel Marine boat builders. by Chris Carty, the brother of David Carty who owns up in St. Martin. to get it fixed. parts (check with Techni-Sales) it could take a few days and not marine grade. vanized or stainless fittings other than screws and bolts, El Dorado Plaza. department/grocery store has a nice selection in the not part of this guide. can afford the high-priced boutiques at the mega-resorts, a car (about $45 per day), ask An to help you. Dog Island is a good dive and snorkel day spot but

, an open motor boat, will take you there and back from , an open motor boat, will take you there and back from , the beers are $3, mixed drinks $6 with drink specials at the Happiness PM Scrub Island is very pretty but is only worth a visit in very calm seas and . Continued from previous page Continued from Ashore at Sandy Ground Road Bay, which is home to Sandy Ground, has many shoreside fun hangouts. My I did no diving this time around so you would best be served by consulting one of • OTHER CRUISING AREAS: • SANDY ISLAND, only a mile and a half west of Road Bay, is a small, remote, “one • SANDY ISLAND, only a mile and a half west of Road • PRICKLY PEAR CAYS offer a gorgeous horseshoe-shaped inner beach with lots of inner beach CAYS offer a gorgeous horseshoe-shaped • PRICKLY PEAR favorite night-time chillin’ spot is Elvis’ Beach Bar located at the far north end. Opening at 4:00 the cruising guides or calling Douglas Carty at (264) 497-4567. Call my pal Nature Boy at (264) 729-5587 for fishing and snorkeling trips. Chocolate takes people to Prickly Pear from Sandy Ground on his 35-foot catamaran for $80 per person; call (264) 497-3394. light winds and since you are not allowed there overnight, plan for the five miles back to Sandy Ground. There are anchorages on the south side of the island, particularly Maunday’s Bay where Cap Juluca resort sits, Cove Bay which has a small reef pro- tecting it from the easterly swells, and Rendezvous Bay, where CuisinArt Resort and Spa and the Dune Preserve exist side by side, providing a nice contrast of material excess and bohemian nature. Technically you are not allowed to anchor in these bays, but the mega-yachts do. Sandy Ground for $10 round trip; call JoJo at (264) 476-4104 or call VHF 16. You can take your dinghy there if you have a big outboard and enough gas. The snorkeling is fair at best, though Coral Island nearby is cool. then you must prepare to beat upwind (or motor) the ten miles back to Sandy Ground At Sandy Ground, Mark likes to munch at Murray’s, and then slide over to Elvis’s for the music tree” island with about five mooring balls, a couple of which have sawed-off pen- tree” island with about five mooring balls, a couple feet of water. The restaurant, nants, so attach your own or anchor in about 15 food though it’s a bit Crusoe’s (264 772-0787), is usually open and has excellent want to visit without paying pricey unless you consider the unique location. If you the cruising fees, catamarans out of St. Martin pack the beach, ruining the special nature of the catamarans out of St. Martin pack the beach, ruining by walking north along the island. You can escape the sunburned mass of humanity and dinghy in. The snorkel- beach. If a swell is running, it is better to tie up outside Tuesday through Saturday, ing is pretty good, though not great. The restaurant, open is pretty good too. Tired of glitzy resorts? The Dune Preserve will appeal to your bohemian side Tired of glitzy resorts? The Dune Preserve will appeal to coral heads. Outside are about eight mooring balls for deep-draft yachts or if the balls for deep-draft are about eight mooring coral heads. Outside entrance until hug the right side of the To get inside, you must inside is crowded. a left then a the reefs where you make opening between you see the light-colored Anchor in about balls that await your use. line with the three mooring quick right in the large day which is often the case when if the moorings are full, ten feet of water — carved-out boat-bar and large entertaining area. Elvis wears US sports team jerseys JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 ‘At ourfirststopthewaterswereclear,albeit withagreenishtinge’ be boughtandbroughtfromthemainland.Therearenogasstations,telephones, some goatsandchickens,therearemanywildiguanas,butmostthingshaveto There isnoagriculturetospeakof;thelanddryandbarren.Thelocalsdohave to stayafewdaysenjoythebeautifulwhitepowderbeachesandwaters. to signandfillinourboatdetails.Itisnotpossibleclearhere,butwewereallowed a coupleofbuildingsandhousesontheother.Thebeacheslookedstunning. anchored offthelargestislandwherewecouldseeamilitaryoutpostononesideand sighted anislandandaswedrewclosercouldseehalfadozenislands.We they certainlydon’tseemto‘lure’verymuchatallourboat!)Bymiddaywe these thingsaren’tpenalizedforcontraveningthetradedescriptionsact,because we’d caughtnothing,asisoftenthecase.(Ifailtoseewhycompaniesthatmake were tooclosetothemortheirnets. I wassuretheycouldseeourlightsclearlyenoughandwouldshoutorwaveifwe fishing boatsduringthenightandearlymorning;somehadlights,didn’t,but passage aboardour44-footHunterLegenddecksaloonsailboat.Wespottedafew ning. Theseawascalmandthewindfromnortheast,whichmadeforaslow ‘An inletledtoasmallfishingvillagereputedhavecharmingrestaurantsandbusynightlife’ It wouldseemthepeopleheresurviveonfishing;theymustdobetterthanwedo. We dinghiedashoreandspoketothefriendlycoastguardofficer,whogaveusabook As always,wetowedamagiclureinsearchoftheelusivefishandbymid-morning My wife,Yvonne,andIleftGrenadaonavaguelysouthwesterlycourseearlyeve- A RoundishTrip WORLD? IN THE WHERE by PhilChapman

DESTINATIONS —Continuedonnextpage such thing.ButtheseguyswereAmerican andAustraliansosufficientlymodest. being carefultoavoidthetimeofdaywhen theymightbeskinny-dippingorsome and acoupleofpalmtrees.Laterinthe daywedinghiedovertotheotherboats, were gorgeous,aswasthewater.Noonlookers hereeither,apartfromthebirdlife better, withturtles,octopus,squids,large angelfishandmore.Thebeachesheretoo end insidetworeefs,roomenoughonly for oneboat.Thesnorkellingherewaseven other boatsanchoredoffthemainbeach sowedecidedtoanchorthenorthern the westofisland,maybea90-minute sailtothenextanchorage.Thereweretwo sundowner ortwo,fellasleepinthecockpit. and abottleofwineincalmanchoragewithbeautifulbackdrop,and,after a snorkelling overandaroundtheexcellentcoral.Thateveningweenjoyedagoodmeal not toobothered;justtookourdetailsandsaid“haveagoodday”—whichwe did, route andsaidwewouldclearinatthefirstportavailableforsuchthings.Theywere tiful surroundingswithawell-keptgardenandparrotsinthetrees.Weexplained our two monthsoff.Theirofficebuildingandbarrackswerealittlebasicbutsetinbeau- these guysliveontheislandandsomeworkashiftpatternoftwomonths and two metresfromthesurface,sowecarefullyeyeballedourwayinandout so weheadedin.Thewaterwasinviting,buttherewerealotofcoralheadslessthan where forthenight.Theanchoragebelowtheirstationlookedabsolutelybeautiful, our intentions.Wesaidwewerepassingthroughandwouldbeanchoringsome- As wenearedamilitarycoastguardstation,theycalledusonVHFchannel16to ask towards thelargerflatterislandbehind. brother islandfivemilesdistant.Wepassedbetweenthetwogroupsandcontinued islands: twogroupsofthreesmallbuthighislandsthatstoodinfronttheir big allowing usagoodsailonbroadreach.Wesawinthedistanceanothergroup of dinner, adorado.Theeveningwindswerequitelightbutpickedupinthemorning, light. We’dtowedourfishingluresthousandsofmilesbutthisdaytheybroughtus sailing, farfromit,butbecausewewantedtoarriveatourdestinationingoodday- north ofwestthistime.Againwedepartedarounddusk,notbecauseenjoynight cowfish, twofeetlongatleast,andmanyangelfish. camera andappearedtosilentlygrowlasItookhispicture.Wespottedtwohuge a greenishtinge.AmorayeelstuckhisheadoutasIwaspassing;hedidn’tlikemy caught upintheratracedreamwecoulddowhenretire. choose tofish.Therearefarworseplacesbepoorin.Theyliveasmanyofus on themainlandorjoinfathersandgrandfathersasfishermen.Theboysoften children uptotheageof14,theythenchoosewhethercontinuetheireducation more planksofwoodforthefishingboattheyarebuilding.Thereisaschool their generatorsandoutboards,somestoresmaybe,iftheyhaveroomacouple twice aweekthemengetintotheirboatsfortriptomainlandbuyfuel newspapers orevenshops.Theydohaveelectricityfromtheirgenerators.Once Next day,afteraswimandbrunch,weupped anchorandcarefullyheadedoutto We dinghiedovertothebeachandwalkedupcoastguardstation.Some of Our guidebookshowsusfouranchorages,twotothesouthandwest. On thedayweleft,wavedgoodbyetocoastguardofficerandsetsail,alittle The snorkellingwasgood,asgoodinTobago;thewaterswereclearalbeitwith ‘The beachesweregorgeous,aswasthewater…’ . JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 Others , taking all valu- Boldly Go , crewed by Ellen Birrell and and fruit juice are available every- Boldly Go arepas for more detailed information on this coun- for more detailed information , the yacht AM Phil and Yvonne keep a blog at http://blog.mailasail.com/chaser2. They invite cruis- Editor’s note: In a two-month period late last year, there were two violent armed On October 15th, 2010 at 10:00 We found beautiful waters, gorgeous beaches, unpopulated islands, a wonderful We found beautiful waters, gorgeous beaches, unpopulated Our first anchorage southwest of Grenada was Islas Los Testigos. From here we was Islas Los Testigos. southwest of Grenada Our first anchorage our final destination at the end of the Gulf of Cariaco Medregal Village Marina was approximately 1,300 kilometres, westward then back So now we have travelled On December 12th, 2010, a yacht heading from Porlamar to Los Testigos was Because of these fairly recent incidents and others in the same general area in the past, In the past few years there have been relatively few yacht-related crime reports from Research your planned route for any current hot spots. ers wanting more information regarding their experiences in Venezuela to e-mail them at [email protected]. attacks on yachts transiting the waters between Los Testigos and Isla Margarita. hurricane-free climate, peace and tranquillity, uncrowded anchorages, and some hurricane-free climate, peace and tranquillity, uncrowded and eager to please; the cost high-life too if you want it. The local people are friendly to 50 cents for one hundred of living is economical for us foreigners. Diesel is equal steak for around three euros litres, rum can be found for about three euros and fillet per kilo. If you are a vegetarian, turnips, sell you bananas or “sail fast” where. There is no hassle from boat vendors trying to call the fishermen over if you T-shirts here. In fact, it’s quite the reverse: you need to here yet — there are few if want something. Foreign tourism hasn’t really reached as it was in the Windward any charter boats to be seen. This is the real Caribbean, there is year-round sailing and Virgin Islands before tourism took hold. Here though, along the 1,760 miles of coastline and more than 300 offshore islands. moved west-ish to Islas Los Hermanos and on to Isla Blanquilla. Later, we sailed and on to Isla Blanquilla. to Islas Los Hermanos moved west-ish — the main the archipelago of Los Roques military island of Orchila to west past the south to Roque. From here we headed streets being Gran village with sandy to help in water but with a staff pleased marina lacking in fuel and Caraballeda, the outside the was at Carenero, anchored can. Our next overnight stop any way they little area and 66°07.25W). It’s a busy to the mangroves (10”32.05N, marina adjacent the sunset and but a great spot to watch so good for swimming, the water is not at Islas Piritu night’s respite was birds at sunrise. The following listen to the village at the end onward to Mochima, a and then we sailed (10°08.99N, 64°57.50W) an excellent safe anchorage off the village (10°20.27N, of a three-mile inlet with 64°22.08W). nearest town is a 45-minute car drive and the sur- (10°32.01N, 63°47.55W). The with only the bird and animal life to keep you company. rounding area is peaceful, and community, comprised of Venezuelan fisherman Apart, that is, from the local bought a beach house here. Also on a busy day there some expat cruisers who have boats in the Medregal anchorage. When we arrived may be as many as 20 cruising huge anchorage has room for a hundred boats. Medregal there were only six, but the haul-out and adjacent accommodations where the swim- isn’t really a marina, but a the and restaurant are available to cruising boats in ming pool, table tennis, bar it would be thought impolite to use the facilities with- area. (There is no charge, but the We have used the haulout facility. Prices for out purchasing a meal or drinks.) etcetera are excellent. Restaurant and bar prices are good haulout, storage, painting, you are working on the hard and prefer not to live aboard, too as is the food served. If at a special price for sailors. air conditioned rooms are available cruisers should avoid Venezuela. If you do you will miss east. Some people say we and anchorages in the Caribbean. Read Chris Doyle’s some of the best sailing and Bonaire Cruising Guide to Venezuela Islands, Dominican Republic, try. During the past years we have sailed the Windward have decided to spend more Haiti, Jamaica, Cuba, Trinidad and elsewhere, but we and its offshore islands. time here in this undiscovered paradise of Venezuela able items they could carry away in their 16-foot piñero. attacked approximately 20 miles west of Los Testigos by five armed men (according to reports received by the Caribbean Safety & Security Net, four had pistols and one was armed with an assault rifle). Shots were fired into the yacht’s hull and bimini top, but the yacht’s crew drove off the assailants by firing a flare gun. some cruisers now advise those heading west from the Windwards to sail the 170 miles from Grenada directly to Isla Blanquilla, and begin a Venezuelan cruise there — avoiding the Los Testigos-Isla Margarita route and the ill-famed Peninsula de Paria entirely. advocate passing west of Los Testigos and south of Margarita and continuing non-stop to Puerto La Cruz, or stopping at Cumaná to check in and then proceeding to Medregal. areas such as Isla Blanquilla, Los Roques, Las Aves, the Venezuelan mainland west of Islas Piritu, and the Golfo de Cariaco. A notable exception is the death of Philippe Armand Leudiere, who died of gunshot wounds after attempting to defend his catamaran, which he and his wife were aboard, from boarding by three or four armed men while anchored off Caraballeda in September 2008. At that time, Melodye Pompa of the Caribbean Safety & Security Net recommended, “This incident adds Caraballeda to the list of those places, like Puerto Cabello and Carenero, where one should go into the marina rather than anchor out.” Jim Hutchins, was attacked about four and a half hours after leaving Los Testigos en route to Porlamar, at approximately 11°05.000 N, 63°23.000W. The couple were assaulted and held at gunpoint while the pirates ransacked

piñero has no and cooked. Chaser 2 Chaser , the fire fighters, brought which we’d obtained in Grenada. bomberos , planning to get in by midday, although a little earlier , planning to get in by midday, although a little earlier Caribbean Compass, PM At anchor just off the village, while enjoying a sundowner

Right: In this bay there are a lot of coral heads, so anchor carefully Right: In this bay there are a lot of coral heads, so anchor Continued from previous page Continued from The Reveal Those cruisers who have ventured to the southeast Caribbean will know, from the The following morning we continued east to an anchorage in the lee of two islands After a few weeks our journey took us south, 75 miles to the mainland and our The village was delightful, with many shops, small hotels and guesthouses, bars, The village was delightful, with many shops, small hotels This archipelago consisted of many beautiful islands and islets. After a couple of This archipelago consisted of many beautiful islands We departed around 4:00 When our relaxing stay came to an end, we saw on our AIS a ship travelling west, we saw on our AIS a ship stay came to an end, When our relaxing We spent two weeks anchored here and nobody seemed to mind. We flew our yel- nobody seemed to mind. We weeks anchored here and We spent two We introduced ourselves and told our brief stories and routes; they were heading stories and routes; they ourselves and told our brief We introduced During the early hours we passed a military base on an island we were not allowedDuring the early hours we passed a military base on an clues I have given, that we cruised from Grenada to a few of Venezuela’s offshore islands and returned eastward along the South American coast as far as the Golfo de Cariaco. The next day it was on to the final destination of our roundish trip. we looked through the bring-’em-nears for an enticing restaurant. We decided to dinghy ashore for an evening meal; the restaurant we spied looked good. As we arrived at the dock the shutters came down and the lights went out. Seems it was the low season and everywhere closed early! We dinghied back to just off the mainland. In the morning we continued on the same course to an inlet three miles long that led to a small fishing village reputed to have charming restaurants and busy nightlife. us water in their truck! How is that for service? The marina’s restaurant was excellent, too — an old fishing boat on land, using the forward cabin as a store, the saloon as the kitchen and the cockpit as a serving area. The transom was the sit-at bar and dining tables surrounded the boat. Restaurant prices were good, and although the marina prices seemed a little expensive for this part of the world they were cheap compared to anywhere else we had been in the Caribbean. We spent two nights, then moved eastward along the coast, day sailing in contrary winds enabling us to close reach along the coast to our next anchorage which was outside a marina in the mangroves. and water would be delivered in the morning. Sure enough, the fishing boat brought us 120 litres of diesel, and in the morning the first marina for a long time. Our plan: clear in, fill the water tanks, fill the fuel tanks, plug into mains electricity. Clearing in wasn’t a problem, getting fuel and water was more difficult. Floods and landslides had destroyed the marina 12 years previously. Since then, the marina has been under reconstruction but very slowly. The marina was now nearly finished, but the water and fuel docks were the last to be completed. Nevertheless the marina staff was eager to help. Fuel would be brought by restaurants, and even a bank. The streets are of sand, with no vehicles apart from restaurants, and even a bank. The streets are of sand, for beginners and, for the those that service the small airfield. There are dive schools supply of most things, so more expert, you can fill tanks too. Stores keep a limited you can stock up to a certain extent. Getting diesel and petrol is more a problem, but if desperate just ask a fisherman on the beach. Water is available on the main beach, by jugs. weeks visiting many anchorages, we sailed to the main island and anchored off the weeks visiting many anchorages, we sailed to the main assured ourselves the anchor village in a stiff breeze. After two or three hours, having group of islands is a national was solid we took the dinghy ashore. This picturesque have to check in (not clear park and various articles we read told us that we would a maximum of two weeks. We in), pay a rather large park fee, and limit our stay to but nobody came to board us still had our yellow flag flying to be on the legal side, the village none of the officers and when we walked past the coastguard station in that as they didn’t ask for asked for anything, just bid us good day. We decided money or papers we wouldn’t volunteer them. Above: This island’s village is delightful, with beachfront bars and restaurants Above: This island’s village is delightful, with beachfront 12 miles north of the island. We called her on channel 16 and asked the captain for on channel 16 and asked of the island. We called her 12 miles north 20 knots a little sea was good and wind at He told us that the a weather forecast. anchorage. We sail due west to our next — perfect for the 120-mile north of east us a pleasant voyage. thanked him and he wished low flag and went ashore every day, but there were no shops, people, buildings or there were no shops, people, ashore every day, but low flag and went our presence. officialdom concerned with that might have made any anything else to Grenada or Bequia, depending on the wind. Bequia, depending on the to Grenada or — or later would not be a problem. We motored out of the lee of the island for an hour or later would not be a problem. We motored out of the to charge our batteries. The or so, partly to see what wind we were to obtain and also twizzle rig, two identical wind was unusually good and we unfurled our downwind out with a couple of thin headsails mounted on the same twin-track furler, held coupling. whisker poles that connect to each other with a flexible to stop at; we could just see the glow of lights. The sail was good if not interesting untilto stop at; we could just see the glow of lights. The sail was of water in a small bay withwe sighted our destination. We anchored in five metres of motorboats. We loweredbeautiful waters, several other cruising boats and a couple coldies, relaxed in the cockpitour dinghy, tied her on our stern, poured a couple of and read our latest edition of backstay and consequently very swept-back spreaders. This design is not good for backstay and consequently very swept-back spreaders. could wipe the mast out. sailing downwind under mainsail: an accidental gybe even in strong winds. We Therefore our twizzle rig allows us safe sailing downwind, small handkerchief either side can furl the headsails and both sails come in, flying a if necessary with the whisker poles pointing forward. JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 charts. Fairtides! the tidefloodsfromwesttoeast.Timesgivenarelocal. and fromjustafteritsnadirtosoonrising,thetiderunswestward;i.e. From justafterthemoon’ssettingtoitsnadir,tiderunseastward; hour afterthemoonreachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward. running totheeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutan month, willhelpyoucalculatethetides. shows thetimeofmeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisANDnext Street, authorofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,which make yourpassagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDon For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestarts Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewill 0 0338 0256 20 0214 19 0129 18 0041 17 0000 (full) 16 2350 15 2255 14 2158 13 2100 12 2002 1906 11 1812 10 1720 9 1630 8 1540 7 1450 6 1358 5 1305 4 1211 3 2 1 DATE TIME July MERIDIAN PASSAGE OF THEMOON JULY &AUGUST2011 0 2143 2048 1952 10 1854 9 1758 8 1702 7 1608 6 1516 5 1425 4 1333 3 2 1 August 1148 31 1241 1053 30 0958 29 (new) 0903 28 0810 27 0719 26 0630 25 0545 24 0501 23 0419 22 21 0 1306 31 1400 1213 (new) 30 1121 29 1027 28 0933 27 0839 26 0745 25 0657 24 0600 23 0511 22 0424 21 0340 20 0257 19 0216 18 0134 17 0052 16 0019 15 0000(full) 14 2323 13 2234 12 11 nons ofFortOranje.Itwasthefirstformalacknowledgementindependent Eustatius decidedtoreturnthesaluteofavisitingAmericanbrigbyfiringcan- endary “FirstSalute”onNovember16th,1776,whentheCommanderofSt. America andmakingfirmfriendsintheprocess.Thisfriendshipresultedleg- Statia wassellingarmsandammunitiontotherebelliousBritishcoloniesinNorth Dutch madeitafreeport.WhiletheEuropeanpowersfoughtamongstthemselves, Islands, StatiawasEurope’sgatewaytotheCaribbeanin18thcenturywhen Caribbean tradingandisasrichinhistoryitmarinelife. walk tothePortofficepayportfees,whetheryoutakeamooringornot. Immigration areonthemaindockandverystraightforward*.Itisthenashort acceptable toanchor,andthebottomissandyoffersgoodholding.Customs we weretherelastseasonthemooringsnotingoodcondition.Itishowever anchorage andmooringshavebeenputinplacebythemarinepark,althoughwhen miles). Theislandissteep-towithlimitedprotectionforyachts.OranjeBaaitheonly between SabaandSt.Kittswithanareaofjust21squarekilometers(eight yachts mustleaveonthesamedaytheyclear outandmustdepartduringofficehours. being aspecialmunicipalityoftheNetherlands. UndernewImmigrationregulations, you havefoundabluebeadwillreturn totheGoldenRockagainandagain. pastime. Itissaidthatyoudon’tfindthe beads,butthebeadsfindyou,andonce into theseaasasignoftheirrelease.Hunting forthesebeadshasbecomeafavorite a signofwealth,butaftertheabolition slaverytheformerslavesthrewbeads Indians. Thebeadswereusedincolonial St.Eustatiusforbarterandwerewornas It issaidthat30ofthesebeadswereused inthepurchaseofManhattanfrom the DutchEastIndiaCompanysailedwithbeadsalloverworldin1660s. purpose oftradingwithnativepeoplesontheships’travels.Theseafaringships of owner oftheDutchEastIndiaCompanydecidedtohavethesebeadsmadefor the Middle Agesandearlier.Themysterywasfinallysolved:itdiscoveredthat the blue beadwasmisidentifiedformanyyearsandhadevenbeen“dated”backto the of theelusivebluebead.Foundinmuseumsthroughoutworld,unimposing protected asamarinepark. dens andwrecksoffStatia’scoast.AllofthewaterssurroundingSt.Eustatius are anchorage, OranjeBaai.Diverstravelfromafartodiveinthespectacularcoralgar- the oldquaywallhaveslippedintoshallowwatersofisland’sonlydecent the harbor. is FortOranje,whichstillretainsitsoriginalcannonsanddefensesasitoverlooks those whohavebeenlaidtorestthere. and damagedin1792byahurricane.Itisnowleftabandonedthecompany of ritual bathforwomen. The neglectedshellofthebuildingstillstands,alongwith Dutch ReformedChurch History buffswillwanttoexploretheruinsof Known astheGoldenRockforitsroleamajorseatradingportinLeeward Sailing intoday,itishardtobelievethatthismodestspeckwasoncethehubof St. Eustatius—orStatiaasitismorecommonlyknownatinyislandlocated * Another oftheappealsthatattractcruisersandothertouriststoStatiaisallure Snorkelers canalsoenjoyremnantsof18thcenturycolonialStatia,asportions of The remainsofmanyfortscanbeseenacrosstheisland.Perhapsmostnotable One ofStatia’sprettiestruinsisthattheDutchReformedChurchbuiltin1755 Statia has recently changed status from being a part of the Netherlands Antilles to Statiahasrecentlychangedstatusfrom being apartoftheNetherlandsAntillesto by Any OtherName Statia:Saint A

by RosieBurr ROSIE BURR ROSIE the westernhemisphere. ond oldestsynagoguein Honen Dalimisthesec- built in1739.The and asynagoguewas arrived ontheisland Jewish merchants years anumberof are ruins. remain ofitspast around. Today,allthat pleasure towalk of Oranjestadarea charm. Thetidystreets Rock retainsaquiet er ones,theGolden ute theirfuelintosmall- tanker vesselsdistrib- Caribbean, wherelarge ment portinthe major fueltransship- cial significance. island lostitscommer- tations shutdownthe sea tradediedandplan- the Dutcheconomy.As which wasdisastrousto Dutch War(1780–1784), in theFourthAnglo- Eustatius. Thisresulted United StatesandSt. trade betweenthe protested againstthe event veryseriouslyand (being British)tookthis America. TheBritish United Statesof During thegolden Now, despitebeinga mikvah , whichisa JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 , by Chris Doyle Follower The author’s yacht, on the Mazaruni River A catfish caught in the Essequibo Cruising Guide to Trinidad & Tobago plus Barbados and Guyana The English is the official language, with a Caribbean-style patois used by many, and English is the official language, with a Caribbean-style Guyana had a patchwork Like many of the other far-flung corners of the empire, Why Sail to Guyana? So, why should cruisers consider Guyana as a destination? It is certainly not granted in 1966. Guyana is a member of the Caribbean Community, commonly known as CARICOM. the Amerindians have a variety of dialects. The country carries its legacy of slavery the Amerindians have a variety of dialects. The country were brought here as slaves and indentured labour in its racial makeup. Africans now form the largest groups and Asian Indians as indentured workers, and these to be dominated by Asian — Amerindians are a minority. Politics and business seem at an official rate of 17 per Indians. Population is low, around 750,000 and draining in Canada, the USA, day. Guyanese are scattered around the world, but concentrate hard working but the local the UK and the Caribbean. They are well educated and economy cannot support them all. around 900 AD. The of modern history after the original settling of the Amerindians interest in the area, believing English, Dutch, Spanish and Portuguese — all had an the Dutch and English, with that gold lurked “in them thar hills”. It came down to wonderful dyke system on the the Brits waiting for the Hollanders to complete the 1814. Independence was coastal flats before moving in and taking over around is very useful, but we did find some of the information outdated and/or no longer applicable. This article is in no way designed to replace or supersede this excellent guide, and is more to share information, update some information and to provide a little insight into a great destination when you want to avoid the hurricane season and experience rainforests and large rivers, without going up the Amazon. geared up for us in terms of maintenance and spares; navigation is not hazardous, but it is challenging and the water in the rivers while fresh, is not clear and certainly not drinkable in raw form. It is hot, humid and rainy (well, it IS the rainforest after all!) most of the year, WiFi connections are patchy and goods generally more expensive than in Brazil. —Continued on next page Above: The excellent anchorage at friendly Baganara Resort Left: Vendors outside Bartica’s fresh produce market. Bartica is the main port of entry for yachts

by Peter Ward Part One: TO

. As a result, there was little to eat. Guyana is also bread

GUYANA! GET AWAY AWAY GET Navigating Up the Essequibo Navigating Of importance to us as cruisers are the river entry town of Parika, and the yachting The economy revolves around intensive agriculture on the coastal alluvial flats Guyana is a small to middling-sized South American country stuck betweenGuyana is a small to middling-sized South American For Guyana historians, there was also the Burnham Period. After Britain relin- For Guyana historians, there was also the Burnham Introduction Jonestown and the mass- Guyana brings to mind (for Baby Boomers anyway) port of entry Bartica, 40 miles up the Essequibo. The rivers provide the key to the interior, with few useable roads in the more remote areas. Small freighters, ferries and water taxis zip back and forth, and light aircraft are used by the wealthier busi- nesspeople and tourists. where the rich soil supports sugar, rice and other major crops, and gold, diamonds, timber and bauxite that are sourced from the interior. The capital is Georgetown, with a scattering of small towns and villages dotted around the coast and interior. type rainforest dissected by a network of rivers, the longest being the Essequibo; at about a thousand kilometres long, it is the longest river located between the Amazon and Orinoco. Guyana also has a highland and mountain zone, providing catchment for the huge rivers. The Kaieteur Falls on the Potaro River boast one of the longest sheer drops in the world and are a focal point for tourism. There is prolific wildlife, but without a guide, you will not see much in the dense jungle except birds and occa- sionally monkeys. However, the night sounds are impressive in remote areas. Suriname and Venezuela on the upper eastern bulge of the continent between one andSuriname and Venezuela on the upper eastern bulge of countryside is largely Amazon- nine degrees north, and bordered inland by Brazil. The known for its Demerara Rum, a potent contribution to alcoholism in the Caribbean known for its Demerara Rum, a potent contribution to offer has to live with negative Basin. It is a pity that a country with such a lot to give it a go…. connotations of the past as its introduction, but let’s quished its colonial ties in the 1960s Winds of Change, the new boss apparently was quished its colonial ties in the 1960s Winds of Change, those with “colonial” a little offbeat. Certain foodstuffs were banned, particularly connotations — such as induced suicide in 1978 of 913 people, at the time the single largest loss of American induced suicide in 1978 of 913 people, at the time the following Jim Jones’s civilian life. Apparently, the members of the cult believed, figure. teaching, that a nuclear holocaust was imminent. Go JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 closed, butyoucanstillcomeashoreaslongannounceyourpresence. and WiFiwhenitisswitchedon.Iftherearenoguests,thebarkitchen being thetoilets,bar,lounge,restaurant,games,kayaks,walks,beach,hammocks yourself, youarewelcomedasapermanentguest,withfreeuseofthefacilities,these are welcomeandthereisnochargeforanchoringoff.Onceyouhaveintroduced island resortwithgreatviews,trimmedlawnsandcolonialstylebuildings.Yachts visitors. Youpayformedicines,butatstatepharmacieseventhesearesubsidized. cies; seriouscasesgotoGeorgetown.Treatmentisfreeatstatehospitals,evenfor town way,buthasabuzz.Thereishospitalthatcanhandlemostminoremergen- stores, bars,foodplacesandsoon.It’sabitroughreadyinfrontiermining rum withyourmatesfornoapparentotherpurpose).Barticahasitall:banks,ATM, points alwaysreturningtoBarticaforresupply,internetor“liming”(drinkingbeer found allstafftobecourteousandhelpfulcheck-intooklessthananhour. Essequibo fromParika.RenewalshavetobedoneinGeorgetownatHomeAffairs.We carry allyourcashandcardsinonego,talktolocalpeopleothercruisers. you wouldanywhereelse:takeprecautions,lockup,beaware,dressdown,donot dust atgreatprices,justwalkaway.It’sgoingtobeatraporworse.Treatcrimelike go on.Oneruleforus:DoNotGetInvolved.Ifsomeoneoffersgold,diamondsorhappy of themtryingtoavoidgovernmentinvolvementintheirprofits,funnybusinessdoes comes downtheriversystemsthroughachainofminers,brokersandagents,some The gangwarsaremainlycentredaroundGeorgetownandcocaine,butasthegold habits, Guyanaisnoangelandthereareoccasionalgangbattles,theftsmurders. between atleasttwocountriesinvolvedactivelyindrugs,smugglingandothernasty thereof, butthatiscertainlynottosaythisacrime-freeparadise.Squeezed residential addressandthensignacontract,soit’sprobablynotviableoption. with internetcapacitydowork.YoucangettheG3-typedonglebutyouhavetoprovelocal have usedinternetshops,ourownsatphone,andWiFiatoneoftheresorts.Cellphones the peoplewhomakealivinginthistropicalenvironment. strong tidalcurrentsintherivers,andstartappreciatingnaturearoundyou foodstuffs, thebudgetcanhandleit.Itisonly300-oddmilestoTrinidad-Tobago. solve on-boardproblems.DieselcostsaroundUS$1.25/litre,andifyousticktobasic are nochandlers,localworkshopsandhardwarestoreswillgooutoftheirwaytohelp you’ll behappytoseeone!Checkinginiseasy,andnobodyhasslesyou.Evenifthere out forthehurricaneseasonorjustchillinanareathathassofewvisitingyachts, — ereoni utfrsgteig rcn h 87Hg or ulig Ab is astatueofQueenVictoria Georgetown isamustforsightseeing.Gracingthe1887HighCourtbuilding

[email protected] www.barefootyachts Our favouritehangoutisBaganaraResort,fourmilessouthofBartica,aprivate Bartica thenbecomesyourbaseforthearea,withmovementsbetweenvarious Check-in foryachtsisofficiallyattheminingtownofBartica,40milesup Crime hasbeen,forus,azeroexperiencewithnotsingleincidentorthreat Cellphones areGSM-based;youcanbuySIMcardshere.WiFiispatchyatbest,andwe The currencyistheGuyanaDollar,runningataround200toUSDollar. You soongetintunewiththesomewhatlaid-backattitudes,dailyrainstormsand But Guyanaisabeautifulcountrywithfriendlypeople,anditgreatplacetohide Continued frompreviouspage Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL

Tel.1-784-456-9526 /93349144Fax.1-784-456-9238 POBox39, BlueLagoon,StVincent,WestIndies eil etl •Soes •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurf Shop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant &Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation • QuiksilverSurfWear •RefrigerationWork • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters no lighthouses,sirens,bellsandflags. my, andsomeoftheseaffectnavigation. aspects oftheapproachtotakeintoaccount.Guyanahasproblemswithitsecono- are notencroachingonnight-timenettingareasoranyone’sprivacy. be goodetiquettetointroduceyourselfthenearestvillageelderandensureyou riverside homes.Ifyouaresettledonyourownanchornearanysettlement,itwould dents whowelcomevisitors.You’llrecognizethembytheyachtsparkedofftheir north ofBarticaontheMazaruniRiver,andtherearesomeex-cruisingprivateresi- ore bargesorfreighters.TheonlyotherlodgeintheareaisHurakabra,afewmiles own anywhereyoulike,makingsurearenotparkedinachannelusedbythe point. Asusual,ifyourunintoarock,bank,treeortruck: quate, andanydeviationsnotedarejustourpreferenceforananchorageorturn other cruisers,ferriesandlocalknowledge.TheDoylewaypointsprovedquiteade- and TobagoplusBarbadosGuyana limited foodsuppliesafteralongvoyage. whatever. Iftheyhavefish,doatradeorjusttellthemyoudon’tsmokeand from anytrafficanddidnotbotherafterseveralcallstryingtoannounceourarrival. sparse, maybeafreighterortwo. eral hundredmetresofnetwithonlyalittleflagmarkingtheend.Othertrafficis to seewiththeiroutriggerboomsandnets,butthesmallsmacksoftenputoutsev- small fishingsmackswithoutboardengines.Shrimpingtrawlersarewelllitandeasy past Parika,beforepickingupthenextrisingtideforup-riverrun. entrance totheEssequibo,andaimforanovernightatRoed-en-Rust,afewmiles your arrivaltopickupanearlymorningrisingtidegoinginpastParikaatthe is soshallowoutthere,youcananchorinanythingbutheavyseas.Tryandtime as tento15milesoffshore,andareun-marked,unlithardseeindarkness. seabed, betweenwhicharestrungsemi-permanentfishnets.Thesepilescanbeasfar become apparentwhenyouareinspittingdistance. Georgetown-Parika) thatyouwonderwherethelandhasgone!Theseawallsonly eyes, depthsounder,chartsanddiscretion. What aboutgettinghere?You’llfinditnoproblem,buttherearesomeserious HAZARDS Navigating UpriverfromtheMouthofEssequiboRiver The waypointsgivenareacombinationofChrisDoyle’s WAYPOINTS You maybeapproachedbyoneofthefastsmacksandaskedforcigarettesor Parika PortControlissupposedtolistenonVHFChannel16,butwedidn’thearapeep You willseethepilingsdottedaroundasyouapproachParika,andalsomany It isessentialtostandoffatleast20milesifyouarriveindarkness.TheAtlantic There aredozensofwhattheycall“piles”,whichlongthickpolessunkintothe The Caribbeancoastlineissolow(belowsealevelformuchoftheregionaround There areotherplacestoanchoroff,andyoucanreallyjustchooseaspotofyour There arenobuoys,lights,markers, (www.Doyleguides.com), downloadsfrom Youareonyourown,cruiser. Cruising GuidetoTrinidad don’t blameus oat withamessage .com . Useyour JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 (Use caution in this area!) Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware e-mail: [email protected] Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear . When you want to visit, just anchor anywhere close by and go ashore, . When you want to visit, just Anchor off Baganara anywhere except in line with the airstrip. We found the most line with the airstrip. We anywhere except in Anchor off Baganara to Hurakabra Lodge From Bartica to Hur 1 • Bartica Anchorage 2 • Hur 1 to Hur 36 81W 06 24 91N 58 3 • Hur 2 to Hur 4 • Hur 3 to Hur 5 • Hur 4 to Hur • Hur 5 to Hur 6 • Hur 6 to Hurakabra the island — there are extensive shallows here, and Stay well off the sawmill on 25 14N 58 36 97W 06 from Shanklands Resort so that you approach (The Doyle guide provides waypoints 06 25 46N 58 37 84W 06 25 70N 58 37 76W 06 27 02N 58 37 50W 06 26 28N 58 37 52W 06 26 62N 58 37 77W of Hurakabra; do not go far beyond the northern limit Anchor slightly upstream of 6, you will probably have seen Joyce Davis’s yacht, On your way in, at Waypoint Exiting Guyana through the Western Channel towards Trinidad & Tobago Exiting Guyana through the this route but we did experience some anxious We exited Guyana through • Bartica to WChan1 • Rattlesnake Passage • Church • Sail Rock/Makauria Island • Shanklands Resort 4 • Close inshore 06 27 90N 58 35 08W 58 36 70W 06 25 70N 06 26 30N 58 36 50W 3 • Close inshore 2 • Close inshore • Onward • Lanaballi 58 35 12W (Not operating in 2010) 06 29 37N • WChan 2 • WChan 3 • WChan 4 06 30 42N 58 34 58W 06 26 66N 58 35 30W • WChan 5 06 31 22N 58 34 57W • WChan 6 06 32 59N 58 35 05W • WChan 7 • WChan 8 58 29 831W To go to Supenaam, make a sharp left to 06 56 998N • WChan 9 06 34 20N 58 35 50W 06 36 25N 58 34 65W • WChan 10 06 41 04N 58 34 486W • WChan 11 58 34 29W 06 43 13N • WChan 12 06 45 69N 58 34 086W 58 34 303W 06 48 445N Next month, Part Two: Logistics for Cruisers in Guyana 06 49 345N 58 34 143W 58 32 159W 06 53 327N 06 56 751N 58 29 321W 07 01 5N 58 26 9W 07 08 8N 58 24 2W 07 10 400N 58 22 400W 07 23 000N 58 21 300W. pleasant place to be about 80 to 100 metres off shore, slightly past the huge bamboo off shore, slightly past to be about 80 to 100 metres pleasant place range of the and lodge. This is well within some privacy to both boat grove, giving WiFi transmitter. high tide. only use this route at a good the side. There are huge submerged rocks on Hurakabra from the northern and we preferred the Bartica-sawmill-Hurakabra Shanklands-Hurakabra approach approach, as given above.) rocks past there. You will see some mooring buoys the property as there are some in but anchoring is easy in good holding anywhere — you have to pay to use them, the channel nearby. Mood Indigo watching out for the little monsters, Duke and Ella — cute little dogs with an attitude Duke and Ella — cute little dogs with an attitude watching out for the little monsters, until they get to know you. is sounder showed the depth to be 2.4 meters (our draft moments, when the depth was a high tide. You also may need to make pro- 2.2 meters) – on what we thought the rising tides to get to the vision for two overnights in order to make best use of Atlantic (depending on the moon and resulting tides). Small passenger ferries are the busy ‘buses’ of the Guyanese rivers

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rock. The ore barges come through day and night and cannot stop or turn eas- rock. The ore barges come through day and night and Continued from previous page Continued from • Bartica Anchorage to Bag 1 • Bag 1 to Bag 2 06 23 25N 58 36 75W • Bag 2 to Bag 3 06 22 73N 58 36 77W 06 20 20N 58 35 92W From Bartica to Baganara Resort This is an easy leg, but there are some rocks and shallows and waypoints should When overnighting at Bartica, ensure your anchor light is distinct or put out more When overnighting at Bartica, ensure your anchor light If you do not have a dinghy engine, rowing to and from your yacht is going to be If you do not have a dinghy engine, rowing to and from When going ashore, look to the right of the power station for Kool Breezes, a river- When going ashore, look to the right of the power station At Bartica side a large shed-like When approaching Bartica, you will see on your starboard • Fort Island • Onward • To Baboon Island • Close to shore1 • Onward • Lanaballi • Onward 2 • Close inshore 3 • Close inshore 06 43 00N 58 32 40W 06 47 35N 58 30 02W 4 • Close inshore • Shanklands Resort 06 40 50N 58 33 75W • Sail Rock/Makauria Island 06 45 85N 58 31 26W • Church • Rattlesnake Passage 27 06 • Approach Bartica 06 32 59N 58 35 05W 38 70N 58 34 30W 06 06 36 25N 58 34 65W • Bartica 06 31 22N 58 34 57W 58 35 12W (Not operating in 2010) 06 29 37N floating or semi-submerged When navigating on the river, keep a sharp eye out for 06 30 42N 58 34 58W 06 34 20N 58 35 50W 06 26 30N 58 36 50W 06 25 70N 58 36 70W 06 26 66N 58 35 30W 24 07N 58 37 00W 06 WAYPOINTS FROM THE ATLANTIC TO BARTICA WAYPOINTS FROM • Stand-off point • Channel 1 • Channel 2 • Parika • Two Brothers Wharf • Roed-en-Rust to stand-off point or farther back, it may be better If you have come in from the 07 01 40N 58 11 40W 06 50 00N 58 27 70W (Overnight here) 06 51 45N 58 26 13W 06 57 00N 58 16 00W 06 54 50N 58 20 00W 06 51 90N 58 25 50W Always use the tides to your advantage, ensuring that if you do go aground at least that if you do go aground tides to your advantage, ensuring Always use the We use a Garmin GPS Map and the data card shows details up to and including card shows details up to GPS Map and the data We use a Garmin

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia

be adhered to until you know the area. lights, and if worried, move even farther off shore, being aware of the shallows and lights, and if worried, move even farther off shore, being that ily. Be seen, be safe! an exercise (in more ways than one!) in balancing tide and time. The current is an exercise (in more ways than one!) in balancing at least on the one leg. strong, but judged right, you can cut across diagonally (or up) stream from the boat Getting back may be a challenge as you are now down across again. Be aware that and may have to work close inshore until ready to cut to be able to fight back direct- if you miss the yacht on the first go, you are unlikely wave and shout — a taxi or ly in the teeth of the current. If you get into trouble, for the shore again! workboat is sure to come to your rescue. It’s that or head side bar and taxi terminal. Cruisers are welcome to tie their dinghies up at the small side bar and taxi terminal. Cruisers are welcome to tie the back or side of the pon- floating pontoon to the left of the bar; try to get around parkers. toon to avoid wash from passing traffic or inconsiderate or ferry terminal. Do not anchor anywhere near here as the ships need turning space or ferry terminal. Do not anchor anywhere near here as past the power station (die- and it is very busy with water taxis. Proceed farther up, market, a very big building sel smoke and noise apparent) and up to the municipal meters offshore around this with green roof and small wharf. Anchor at least 200 pass in the channel between area, allowing plenty of space for the huge ore barges to meters out and forward of the you and the market. There are some rocks about 400 them well. Anchor in good market position. Watch for them at low tide and mark holding at around six metres. building with wharf and probably some small freighters or a ferry. This is the building with wharf and probably some small freighters debris, especially logs and large palm fronds. If your eyes see a change in water debris, especially logs and large palm fronds. If your tend to be closer to the colour and you think shallows, then act shallows. Channels bank you are following than not. overnight at Roed-en-Rust, which although styled as a marina has no facilities for which although styled as a marina has no facilities overnight at Roed-en-Rust, will however get a warm welcome from Cleo da Silva who yachts whatsoever. You will expect to find diesel, ice, spares or expertise on hand. help where possible, but don’t but not put ashore here as you are still not checked in, Strictly speaking you should to to mind. Anchor off quite far (around 300 metres) if you have to, nobody seems taxi and ferry services. avoid the shallows and fast it won’t be for too long. The tidal range is up to three metres, and the tidal race and up to three metres, and the too long. The tidal range is it won’t be for diesel when against them and burning with little point fighting currents are fierce, loaded and we Our draft is 2.2 metres them and make like a Ferrari! you can ride around five metres. bottom. Average depths range never touched Bartica, but goes blank about a mile south of Bartica. Admiralty charts are good for rocks of Bartica. Admiralty charts blank about a mile south Bartica, but goes changeable. bars can be seasonal and but sand banks and and general navigation, — JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 of theislandsinBahamas,GreatInaguaisflat, coastal breezesthatblowacrosstheisland.Likemany hot, astherearenomountainstoblockthesoothing in thisareaislacking. ism fulltime,butthisdoesnotmeanthattheservice Matthew Town.Nooneontheislandworksinecotour- Fawkes, theisland’shistorianandformermayorof ments andparadingupdownthemainstreet. Junkanoo, beatingdrumsandotherhomemadeinstru- We werefortunatetoseesomepeoplepractisingfor was alsothetimeforJunkanoo(BahamianCarnival). island. Also,inadditiontoitbeingChristmastime restaurants wereonvacation,eitheroroffthe only about1,000peopleontheisland. demand forrestaurantmeals.Remember,thereare usually havetoorderaheadsincethereisnotagreat can call.Thesamethingwithrestaurants,andyou there isusuallyasignwithtelephonenumberyou nesses donotkeepregularopeninghours;instead prising whenyouarriveonGreatInagua:mostbusi- National Trust,whichyouhavetocallaheadvisit. and library.Thereisalsoalocalmuseumrunbythe within walkingdistanceofthegrocery,bank,postoffice were renovatingtheirownkitchenandrestaurant. was locatedinthetownandwheretogetamealasthey Pennerman, whoquicklyadviseduswhereeverything the MainHousefordurationofourstaywas who wereinvolvedwiththesaltcompany.Representing there werenotmanyvisitorstotheislandexceptthose our friendsandfamily.AsitwastheendofDecember, TV andinternet,sowewereneveroutofcontactwith North AmericaandEurope. annually tocountriesintheCaribbean,SouthAmerica, island, onaverage,exportsamilliontonnesofsalt income toislandresidentsissaltproduction.The Morton Salt’smainfacility,andthemajorsourceof our tablesatmealtime.GreatInaguaishometo that producesthesameMortonSaltendsupon operated byMortonBahamasLimited,thecompany operating formorethan30years.Itisownedand House. Thisstylishtwo-storeyguesthousehasbeen more todoonthistinyislandthanliethebeach. really quickly,anddon’tbedeceived—thereisalot such asmallpopulationyougettobeoneofthelocals reside inandaroundthecapital,MatthewTown.With is quitesmall,around1,000people,mostofwhom Bahamian archipelago.ThepopulationofGreatInagua of Floridaandisthemostsoutherlyisland Great Inaguaislocatedabout485milesoffthecoast biodiversity oftheisland.Shapedlikeateardrop, Bahamas, foralittlelessthantwoweeksstudyingthe island ofGreatInagua,thethirdlargestin and sunshine.Ihadthegreatfortuneofvisiting think oflyingonthebeachandenjoyingsea,sand

● ● ● ● ● ● TYRREL BAYYACHTHAULOUT Although thereislotsofsunshine,youdon’tgetvery Our contactontheislandwasCaptainStephen During ourvisit,mostoftheownerssmall This bringsmetoonethingthatyouwillfindsur- The MainHouseislocatedinthemiddleoftown The MainHousehassixhugeroomseachwithcable My colleaguesandIstayedattheMortonMain When youthinkofavacationintheBahamas,

New environmentallyfriendlyhaulout Chandlery Mini -Marina Do ityourselforlabouravailable Water 50-ton hoist,18ftbeam,8ftdraft www.carriacouboatyard.com VHF: [email protected] Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175 Dulcia Dulcia CARRIACOU Salting AwayMemories: GREAT INAGUA ALL ASHORE… B &CFUELSENTERPRISE Easily approachedfromCarriacou, UnionI.,PalmI.&PSV Tel/Fax: (473)443-9110email: [email protected] FUEL •OILWATERICE by Jo-AnneNinaSewlal Contact: GlennClementorReynold Belmar The bestfueldockintheGrenadinesfor: Cheapest pricesintheGrenadines Unobstructed dockincalmwater Suitable forLargePowerYachts 16-18 feetofwateralongside Petite Martinique Left: Conveyerbeltsmovethesaltat44tonsperminute and Europe to countriesintheCaribbean,NorthandSouthAmerica, Above: Saltistruckedtotheport,thenshipped seawater andsalt. with seawatersothatthereisaconstantsupplyof ther evaporationtooccur.Thepondsleftarefilled pumped intootherpondsandallowedtorestforfur- percentage ofthewaterhasevaporateditisthen left toallowthewaterevaporate.Whenacertain seawater ispumpedintoshallowpondswhereit water andprocessedbeforeitisexported.Firstthe Tours, whoexplainedhowsaltisextractedfromsea- house keeperwasnotin. some photos.Unfortunatelywhenwevisited,thelight- keeper isin,onecanasktogoupthetopandtake to thelighthouse.Ifoneisluckyandiflighthouse along themainroad,passingthroughtownandup hiking. Thatisexactlywhatwedid.Aneasyhike above sealevel,thusmakingGreatInaguagreatfor with thehighestpointreachingalittleover160feet We tookatourwithColinIngrahamofGreatInagua —Continued onnextpage JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 18.25.50N 18.25.50N 69.36.67W The Bahamas Boating and Fishing • Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, 24 hr security • Immigration office in the marina for clearance • Free WIFI and Free Internet • Dinghy Dock • 12 miles East of Santo Domingo & 7 miles East of International Airport at http://issuu.com/aircurrentsmagazine/ Things to Know • Matthew Town is an official port of entry. • Anchorages on Great Inagua include the waters • The Bahamas dollar is equivalent to the United • The tap water is desalinated and is safe for • There is no public transportation on the island • If you want to go diving or snorkeling, ask for • You can read FOCAL POINT FOR CRUISING YACHTSMEN FOR CRUISING POINT FOCAL

As I mentioned earlier, you have to call ahead to earlier, you have to call As I mentioned Year’s Eve on the island Although we celebrated New Bahamas they usually When people think of the is studying for her Jo-Anne N. Sewlal BSc., MPhil., just off Matthew Town, Lantern Head Harbour, and Man-O-War Bay at Northwest Point. Fuel and water are available at the Government dock in town. The private pier at Morton Salt can be utilized by prior arrangement. States dollar; you can pay for purchases in either the local or US currency. drinking. In the past, residents constructed under- ground tanks called cisterns. These were built on the property as a separate structure with its own roof, so that they look like very short houses. but one can rent a vehicle or hire a tour guide to take you around the island. I would recommend taking a guide to go anywhere past the outskirts of Matthew Town as the roads leading out of the capital form a confusing network. (Following them as hiking trails should also be done with caution.) Perry Fawkes, Stephen’s brother. Guide docs/bm.fishingguide2010?viewMode=magazine The prices are also very affordable — where else can also very affordable — where The prices are a US dollar? or a portion of fries for you get ice cream salad and on conch fritters, chowder, We also feasted thanks to Dulcia. cracked conch, goes for you visit and the same most stores before again and Dulcia came through souvenir shops. some of the Theresa Lewis who sells directed me to souvenir and affordable handmade most beautiful carved on plants and animals items, for instance, after the animal has been conch shells. This is done is no wastage and no harvested for food, so there solely for craft. Theresa is destruction of these animals so this is a part time job also a primary school teacher everyone — just ask for for her. She is known by “Resie” as she is also called. parties. This is because we did not attend any wild Night people attend church traditionally on Old Year’s one goes for eats from ten to midnight and afterwards — which can go on until and drinks at the church hall four o’clock in the morning. To me, Great Inagua is think of Nassau or the Abacos. the time to get here and an undiscovered gem. Take of both worlds: being a you will experience the best like a local. Great Inagua wide-eyed tourist and living like to visit again. is definitely an island I would doctoral degree at the Department of Life Sciences, University of the West Indies. THE iiiii Z

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and closes at around 9:00 AM S V After all that touring, hiking and relaxing, one needs You can also visit Conch Shell Point, on the south- visit Conch Shell Point, on You can also E will realize how it got its name as conch shells are lit- tered about the sand. The surrounding vegetation is classified as dwarf forest, where species of trees usually attaining a height of 15 feet or more are here only a little over five feet tall. to eat. We enjoyed the Inagua Island restaurant. Like most other businesses, it is located within walking distance of the Main House. It opens from around 11:00 on the southwest of the island, also known as Fawke’s of the island, also known on the southwest you will see drive along the west coast, Beach. As you where buildings including a church, some abandoned a small settlement. there was once and you A glance around the beach east of the island. as a mini cyber café. As soon as you walk in, the as a mini cyber café. As soon as you walk in, the friendly owners, Merlin and Ron, greet you. Merlin’s grandmother is from Great Inagua and was a principal of a nearby school and Ron is from the US. After living in Atlanta, Georgia for 40 years they decided to settle here on retiring. Their menu not only has local dishes, but some American dishes as well, such as nachos. N REPRESENTATIVE needs N I A A stainless steel I D C U

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BIMINI & DODGER SS Since the island is flat, it’s an easy hike to the lighthouse Continued from previous page Continued from

Of course, a trip to the Bahamas would not be com- Mr. Ingraham also took us to the eastern part of the The only thing that can throw a wrench into the salt that can throw a wrench The only thing Located opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) e-mail: [email protected] VHF Ch16/68 plete without a trip to the beach, and the closest beach plete without a trip to the beach, and the closest beach is just a five-minute walk from the centre of Matthew Town. Another great place you can visit is Devil’s Point island around Lake Windsor and to the border of the Inagua National Park where we saw flamingos, the national bird of the Bahamas. You might want to park and walk along the road to get closer to look at or photo- graph them, as the sound of engines scares them away. They visit the ponds near the road early in the morning and retreat to the farther ponds as the day progresses and the roads get more traffic. Besides flamingos, you can see herons, egrets, cormorants and parrots. table salt we are familiar with. It takes approximately table salt we are familiar with. It takes approximately two months to harvest salt for export after the process has started as saltwater pumped into the ponds. operations is rainfall, which will dilute the salt ponds rainfall, which will dilute the operations is produced production. The salt crystals and delay salt with us. we were allowed to take some are huge and produce the are washed and ground to These crystals — JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 metres. Theplatformwillbeoperatingduring allsea- margin formovementwithinadiameter ofabout100 thrusters, notalwaysverystillofcourse —thereisa above thedrillingholewith4,000-horsepower sion whileit’sconnected.Therigisheld positioned by ahugehydraulicgadgetthatprovides constantten- weighs 450tonswhenassembled,andis heldinplace mum depthof40,000feet,avastdistance. Thepipe ing atwaterdepthsof10,000feet,down toamaxi- stashed pipesforretrievingtheoil:rig willbedrill- around. Hereisa15-tonemergencyanchor.There,the are allNorwegianssono-nonsense?),showsme it sodistant. terns, houseslitup,streetlightsandneonsigns.Allof skyscraper: fluorescentglimmeringsofcarsandlan- below me,Curaçaobynight,asmightbeseenfroma electricity tomyfingertips.Theislandstretchesout now, theadrenalineinmybloodsendingasparkof again becomepainfullyawareofhowhighIamright wanders towhythissigncameexist,andIonce shelter afamilyoffour.Asign:“NoFishing”.Mymind hoses, pipes,boxeswithlifevestshugeenoughto tic, unexploredmilieu.Morelights,cables,oildrums, jerked awayfromtheCaribbeanintoastarklyfuturis- acute feelingthatIaminacompletelydifferentworld, sales increasedseveraltimesoverinjustafewdays. started tobelieveinsupernaturalforceswhenthe just walkingdistancefromSpaanseWater,musthave local pubsonCuraçao.Theownerofthenearestpub, get theirfeetondryland,spendingsometimeinthe 35-ton thrusterpropellers.Betweenwatches,thecrew for thework,whichincludesinstallationofeight Upon enteringtheCaribbeanSea,crewprepared Korea andshippedtoCuraçaobysubmersiblebarge. Bicentenario on anoilplatform. interest andinvestigatewhatit’sliketolivework Caribbean Compass Gulf ofMexico.Therewasjustenoughtimefor equipment fittedbeforemovingfarthertowardsthe below theisland;it’sjustmooredtheretogetsome Water thatit’salmostpossibletoreadbyit. such abrightlightintotheanchorageofSpaanse look likea130-metrehighChristmastree,anditcasts The thousandsofbrightlightsfromtheoilrigmakeit and definitelysoifyouhaverecentlybeentoCuraçao. Tobago oroffthelongCaribbeancoastofVenezuela, oil rig.Thecaptainstretchesouthishand. the stairwayendsandIfindmyselfondeckofan pounding. Myheadstartsspinninglightly,butfinally, This isalmostfourtimeshigher,andmypulse anchorage, whichseemslikeajokeincomparison. mast tocheckupontheriginaniceLeewardIsland then socanI.Thisisnotlikeclimbingmy16-metre our ofthestairs.Ifhecanhandlethisuntroubled, walking infrontofme,hiscoverallsmatchingthecol- ance inthesteadilysteppingheavybootsofman as myforearmnowappearthinthreadsfarbelow. see allthewaydowntowater.Mooringlinesthick of weldedthickmetalrods,andbetweenthem,Ican staircase ispaintedbrightorange.Thestepsaremade while Iamtryingfranticallynottolookdown.The throbbing inmyhead,theonlythingIcanthinkof, Bicentenario The captain,acasuallyclad,no-nonsenseman(why As Iwalkalongthelight-drencheddeck,have The brand-new37,600kWsemi-submersibleoilrig No, it’snotpumpingsomenewlydiscoveredoilfrom You haveprobablyseenthemnearTrinidadand I amdeterminedtoreachthetop,andfindreassur- Acrophobia Aboard theRig: , aGotaverkenGVA7500,wasmadein , avastsightjustofftheCuraçaobeach isthefearofheights.ThisLatinword

to comeaboardthislocalpointof inCuraçao

Bicentenario byLenaPadukova ALL PHOTOS: SERGEJ GRATCHEV SERGEJ PHOTOS: ALL time tochatwithhimabouthispersonal background. issue withthelightingsystemondeck), andIhave attending tosomeurgentbusiness:allpart ofhisjob. guide methroughthemonitorswhile captainis in asci-fimovie.Thetwogentlemencurrently onshift chain reaction,associatingthespacewith alaboratory is crispandclean,whichsendsawaymy thoughtsina catch aglimpseoftheseabelow,and atmosphere floor istiled,thewindowsaretilteddownwards to chart plotter,somemysteriousandmesmerizing.The monitors, somefamiliar,likearadarscreenand on aswell.Theoilrigbridgeisfullofdisplaysand the platformisbusywithactualoilretrieval. of theweather,seatrafficandlike,whilestaffon from theplatform.Whenoffshore,itdoesmonitoring standing byjustbeyondthedangerzoneof500metres “supplier ship”,istheveryvisibleaccessoryofanoilrig, letters, being liftedwithacranepositionedonboatwhite tion, theywillrunnon-stopforaboutfiveyears. thrusters areconstantlyengaged—aftertheinstalla- connected andmovedawayusingthethrusters.The sons, soifahurricanestrikes,theoilrigwillbedis- Signing in,asecurityprocedurecarriedoutbeforeclimbingthestairstofirstdeck The captaincomesback,thebusinesssettled (minor On therig,therearequiteafewthingstokeepaneye We lookdown,wheretheenormouspropellersare Buccaneer , on its side. This boat, a so-called , onitsside.Thisboat,aso-called

enjoying hisfour-weekshiftworkasthe life andcareer.CurrentlylivinginIndonesia,heis Born intoaNorwegianfishermanfamily,theseaishis fridge, noclutter,personalthingsexceptforsome and veryneat:abednicelymade,anarmchair,mini- opinion (beingusedtolivingonsmallsailingvessels), and asleepingspace.Quitespacious,atleastinmy There isastrictno-alcoholpolicyontheship. with sodas,lookinglikeyourregularofficekitchen. ley withacoffeemaker,cooler,andfridgepacked advance throughthecrewspace,wepassasmallgal- Sundays, abarbecueissetupoutondeck.Aswe there isalibrary,gym,cinema,evensauna!On there areavarietyofthingsonecanchoosetodo— working asengineers,doctorsandthelike.Off-shift, chores differingvastly,fromcleaningandcateringto places forabout200people,allworkinginshifts,their it, andstarttalkingaboutthisship’screw.Ithas able speed,keepinginmindthesizeofvessel. ing aboutsevenknots,butit’sneverthelessaconsider- rules arerules.Theoilrigwillnottravelveryfast,mak- high thatitwillnotbeseenfromtheseasurface,but the lanterns,acourtesyflaghoistedhigh—infact,so used toseeingonourownboats:asetofsignalflags, having alltheusualtrimmingsthatweyachtiesare the wayfromCuraçaotoitsfinaldestination),thus way onitsownusingthepropellers(andwilldothatall form. Theplatformisactuallyaship—itcanmake laughed. Maybesomeday…. stories andstories,enoughtowriteseveralbooks,he with asmile.Fromthattime,hesays,couldtell work —tenyearsatseawithsmallercargoships smoothly, hesays,butthenmentionshisprevious work, buthedoesn’tfindany.Everythingalwaysgoes situations. Iaskhimtotellsomecatchystoryfromhis to hire,andconstantlyalertreadyforallkindsof pating inthemeticulousprocessofchoosingstaff alities, delegatingdutiesandresponsibilities,partici- captain, interactingwithpeopleof29differentnation- —Continuedonnextpage final destinationisthehelicopterpad. keep themselvesneatandpolite. good effectontheirfellowcrewwhoaremale —theguys They positivelyaffecttheworkingclimate, andhavea positive tohavewomeninthecrew, captainsays. team, andtheotherahelicopterlandingofficer. It’svery there areinfacttwofemalecrew—one thecatering work hereatall.Yes,theyarerare,buton only seemen,andaskthecaptainwhetheranywomen nevertheless quickwithasmileandwelcomingnod.I code beingasecuritymeasure.Mostareverybusy,but crew passingby,dressedinorangecoveralls,thedress for allthecrewwhileoffwatch. cast whenoffshore.Thereisalsointernetfreetouse and seeaflatTVscreen—theentertainmentisbroad- clothes hangingfromthewallhooks.Ilookbehindme The captain’squartersconsistofaworkingspace We enteradoorwithbig“HABITATIONAL”signon He tellsmemoreaboutthedailylifeonoilplat- As wetalk,ourstrollaroundtherigcontinues. The Now, asIamvisitingtheplatform,haveseenseveral Bicentenario’s Bicentenario

JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29

a tour of the rig. Caribbean Compass reporter around Compass Continued from previous page Continued from Special thanks to Captain Steinar Larsen for giving And frankly, after seeing this fantastic, surrealistic hidden world of the oil rig by a I approach its edge and look down to see the dark waters of the Caribbean far, far the dark waters of the Caribbean edge and look down to see I approach its The bridge: the rig’s operational and navigational center The piping, disassembled and stowed Caribbean island, I find myself considering it. the short story of sailing off from cold Sweden, through the North Sea speckled with oil platforms very similar to the one we are standing on, towards southern Europe and across “the puddle” to the sweet Caribbean. I tell him about my plans ahead, sailing around in the tropics. He smiles, offers jokingly to trade jobs. below. The air is warm and moist, a contrast to the air-conditioned bowels of the rig. to the air-conditioned is warm and moist, a contrast below. The air that is, and I scream about how wrong a cigarette. My instincts The captain lights a smoke on an turns out to be fine to have query to the captain. It toss a tentative Who would have in action, of course. it or not, when not engaged oil rig, believe and I give him own Caribbean experience, The captain asks about my thought that? — Captain Steinar Larsen shows the JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 tinue ontoRodneyBaythenextmorning. the RockSideCaféandclearoutofCustomstocon- Wallilabou, St.Vincent.Weplannedtohavedinnerat on ourwaytoSt.Luciawithaplannedovernightat wonderful daysofsailingintheGrenadinesandwere six toninefeetlaterinthemorning. seas wereapproximatelythreetosixfeet,growing 20 to25knotswithoccasionalgusts27knots.The Union Islandat6:00 byTomScott close-hauled position.Withthemainsailsettofirst down theheadsailandadjustedmainsheetto rocking badlyandturningincirclestoport.Itook the sailsandtoattemptstabilizeboatasitwas pump hadnotactivated.SoIturnedmyattentionto did notseemtobeincreasingandtheautomaticbilge amount ofwaterinthesternsectionbilgebutit trol, sailsflappinginthewind.Therewasafair the bilgetosee.Bythistimeboatwasoutofcon- water?” Iimmediatelywentintothesternportionof the stern,myfirstconcernwas“arewetakingin hard enoughtoshaketheboatitscoreandliftup below thesurface. the waterbehindusandsawaflatorangeobjectjust the rudderisstuck!”Iwenttohelm,lookedinto just underthesurface.Peteryelled,“Icannotsteer, we hadhitsomethingverybigandprobablymetallic nowhere nearanyshoalwater.ConsequentlyIknew had nothitareef—wewerein1,000feetofwaterand this washappeningmymindracing.Iknewwe stern feltasifithadbeenliftedupafootortwo.As three gut-wrenchingseconds.Inthefinalsecond loud crunchingsound.Thislastedforapproximately pit, at thehelmandIsatonstarboardsideofcock- approximately 9:30 strength andoccasionallysquallscamethrough.At knots ofwind.Astimewentonthewindgrewin wind istoostrong. fact lightasopposedtodecreasingandreefingifthe comfortable toincreasesailareaifthewindsarein of anislandintheCaribbean.Ifinditeasierandmore wind untilyouareoutsideofabayandbeyondthelee to knowexactlywhatishappeningwithrespectthe two thirds.Thisismyusualprocedureasitdifficult second reefandtheheadsailrolledoutapproximately Beneteau. Ileftthebaywithmainsailsetto Container Encounter At approximately9:45 Everyone aboardwasinagoodmoodaswe’dhadsix On February14th,2011IdepartedChathamBay, Knowing thatwehadjusthitsomethingquitehard, The daystartedoutwithapproximately15to17 Monet II begantoshudderviolentlyandmakea AM thewindswereoutofeastat AM AM aboard , whilePeterChocholakwas Monet II , my47-foot Captain TomandArlen Below: Thecrew:fromlefttoright,Peter,Tu,Mylinh, in thecollision Above: Monet II’s rudderwasseriouslydamaged up alongside to manuallypumpthroughoutthenight. for theelectricbilgepumptohandleso we tookshifts boat hadbeguntakingonwaterandit was toomuch one thereatthathourtohaulusout.By thistimethe gency ruddersystem. believer inhaving“kickass”bilgepumps andanemer- Monet II secured andwewerebackonourwayagain. were prepared,andittookusverylittletimetogetre- It hadbeenchafingon About anhourandahalfintothetowropebroke. laughed, thinkingIwasbeingoverlypessimistic. going todoWHEN,notif,theropebreaks”.They water. Itoldmycrew,“Let’stalkaboutwhatweare place nearbywherewecouldhaultheboatoutof began totowusOttleyHall,St.Vincent,theonly had toletthelinegoandtryagain. in circlesandthelinegotcaughtupkeel.Sowe it uptothebowbutsureenough the mainsailandtheythrewusatowline.Wehooked okay andthat’swhathewantedtodo.SoItookdown going todriftincirclestheleft.Hethoughtthatwas it down.Iexplainedtohimifdidthat,theboatwas mainsail upforthetow.Howeverhewantedmetotake about sixmileseast.Afterfourhourshefoundus. and proceededtoheadCanouan,goingrightbyus Sparrow thoughtwewerejustoffthecoastofCanouan turned outtobeamistakeasforsomereasonCapt. tion usingbearingsfromCanouanandBequia.This having problemswithhisGPS,soIexplainedourposi- our position.Capt.Sparrowinformedusthathewas to whereverwewantedgo. Geronimo his firstnameisJack!),wasonwaytofireup Sparrow” (I’mnotmakingthisupandIdoknowif Guard aswell).Toosietoldmehisbrother,“Captain and satellitephone,notonlywithToosiebuttheCoast cell receptionandIwasalternatingbetweenphone cell phone(bythistimewewereonthevergeoflosing would beachargeforthat.IspokewithToosieonthe vessel tobringusin.Theyinformedthatthere Toosie, aguywhohadlargeenoughsalvage/towing don shipifneedbe. raft andtheprocedurethatwewouldfollowtoaban- on deck.”Wethenhadabriefinghowtousethelife your importantpersonalbelongingsandcomebackup I amwrong,getthelifevestsout,packasmallbagof we couldnotsteer.However,Itoldthem,“Justincase that Ifeltouronlyseriousproblemwasthefact the boatwasnotinimminentdangerofsinkingand icked crew.Itoldthemwhatsawunderthehull,that about that,butIdecidedthatwasbetterthanapan- selves, viewingitasanadventure.Iwasn’trealhappy haps alittletoomuch,astheywereenjoyingthem- dence inmyabilitytotakecareoftheproblem,per- further damage. I couldsee.Muchtomyrelief,thereappearedbeno shaft andpropeller,thekeelasfaruphull take alook.OncebelowIexaminedtherudder, ward atapproximatelyaknotandhalf,Idecidedto boat wasverystableinahovetopositionmovingfor- a verystrongswimmerandscubainstructorthe exactly wasgoingonbelowthehull.ConsideringIam action wastodoeverythingIcouldfindoutwhat and minusesdecidedthatthebestcourseof further damagemightbethere.Iweighedthepluses diving under,withlinesunderthehull,toseewhat wrestled withthethoughtofputtingamaskonand hole intheboatatsametime”. the rudderandmakeitsomewhatusablebutputa thought, “Maybenotsuchagoodidea:Imightloosen lodge therudder.HoweveralmostimmediatelyI attempt tostraightenthingsoutseeifIcoulddis- into thehull.Igotoutalargecrowbarandbeganto zen inaleft-rudderpositionandwasjammedrightup as wediscoveredlatertherudderwascompletelyfro- insert thetillerintoposition.Itdidn’tmatteranyway, ripped rightoutofthehullandtherewasnowayto was uselessastheruddershafthousinghadbeen board; theywouldhavebeenthereinfiveminutes!”) should havetoldthemyouhadfivetonsofcocaineon the storytoalocalsailor,hequipped,“Man,you utes, butdidnotarriveuntilfourhourslater.(Telling They gaveusanETAatourpositionof30to40min- to staynearusintheeventwebegantakeonwater. tow usin,howevertheywouldsendouta27-footskiff did nothaveavesselavailablethatwouldbeableto our situationtothemandtheyinformedusthat through totheSt.VincentCoastGuard.Weexplained Guard inSanJuan,PuertoRico.Theypatchedme with emergencyphonenumbersandcalledtheCoast to” position. the turningandactuallyhadusinaverystable“hove reef, thisconfigurationseemedtobeidealasitstopped Finally, thenextmorningatapproximately 9:00 We arrivedinOttleyHallatabout5:30 The secondattemptwassuccessfuland I toldhimwashovetoandsuggestedleavethe Finally connectedwithCapt.Sparrow,Igavehim Later ontheCoastGuardputusintouchwith My crew/passengersseemedtohavealotofconfi- Still veryconcernedaboutthedamagebelow,I I attemptedtousetheemergencytiller,howeverit I stillhadcellphonereceptionandgotoutmyfolder wasonthehardandsafe.Iamnowa firm fromBequiaandwasonhiswaytotowus Geronimo forthenight,astherewasno Geronimo’s Monet II sternramp.Butwe PM wasdrifting andrafted Geronimo AM ,

JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 or email: ST. MAARTEN ST. Parts - Repairs - Service FAX: (473) 444 2899 Duty-Free Engines for Yachts Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP NEW AFTER- MARKET LOWER UNITS PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 email: [email protected] [email protected] TOURS & CRUISES - CAR & JEEP RENTAL BUY FOR LESS THAN HALF BUY FOR LESS THE PRICE OF OEM. CALL 011 599 587 7469 for a price CALL 011 599 587 7469 for McIntyre Bros. Ltd. AFTERMARKET UNITS FOR: LOWER • MERCURY • YAMAHA • EVINRUDE ALPHA ONE • MERCRUISER 2 • GENERATION • BRAVO TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S, GRENADA W.I. YAMAHA I see no objection to It is just a question of Eliminating the pump- fecal matter ending up in the sea. The solution to pollution is dilution, and this is best achieved by depositing small amounts over a wide area in deep water. It is perfectly ecologically friendly; the sea, after all, deals with the feces from many more animals than humans — whales, dolphins, sea lions, fish and seabirds, to mention just a few. It all gets recycled. I remember once, while anchored in very still water in Trinidad, being curious about what happened after I pumped the head, so I went to the stern and looked. The effluent was quickly set upon by a school of sergeant majors, which seemed to find it the perfect breakfast snack. whether you dump effluent in an anchorage, or farther out at sea where there can be no logical objection. The idea of using pump-out stations does not make any sense, except for long-term marina guests. Anyone who wants to know where land-based sewage ends up can take a whiff of the water as they sail past Point Saline in Grenada or Pointe Plum in St. Martin. out mechanism makes the construction of a holding tank much easier. You can also forget the Y-valve and any extra hoses. , was built, I always intended , was built, I always intended Ti Kanot titled “Hold the Holding Tank.” My point at that time was that titled “Hold the Holding Tank.” by Chris Doyle Compass

Many years ago I wrote an article for Many years ago I wrote an years ago. I was cruising in I was influenced by an incident that happened many In searching for a design I do like having it. It makes me feel more comfortable when people are swimming around, and gives me more I do like having it. It makes me feel more comfortable when people are swimming around, and gives me I had lots of different ideas as to how to do this on my boat, but since it was new territory I opted for something I had lots of different ideas as to how to do this on my boat, but since it was new territory I opted for something In addition, more and more marine parks are asking us to have holding tanks, and I think it is time to comply. marine parks are asking us to have holding tanks, In addition, more and more the To make this work as a holding tank all it needs is a valve on top of the tank with an air vent. To deploy But these days, when there are so many more yachts, I look at it more from an aesthetic point of view. It would are so many more yachts, I look at it more from an But these days, when there It struck me that the simplest possible holding tank was a small tank plumbed right in line with the effluent A Holding Tank for Dummies: for Tank A Holding Hold it! This simple installation offers the option of discharging waste appropriately Sweden on a yacht with a holding tank. It was a complicated affair with lots of hoses and valves, including a holding tank. It was a complicated affair with lots Sweden on a yacht with a the wrong switch and create a how it all worked and somehow I managed to flip Y-valve. I did not understand — very embarrassing. I wanted the boat that did not move for hours in the calm water brown disturbance around something simpler and more foolproof than this. to have a holding tank, but it has taken some ten years to get round to installing one; plenty of time to think about it has taken some ten years to get round to installing to have a holding tank, but way of achieving it. to come up with the simplest, easiest, most dummy-proof how it should be done and like control over when to flush. The tank does take up space, but the top of it forms a handy place to store things and tissues and, in this installation, a towel on the towel rack completely hides it. It seems completely foolproof simple to use. I recommend it. In Search of the Perfectly Simple, Idiot-Proof Holding Tank Holding Simple, Idiot-Proof of the Perfectly In Search that I could see and remove easily if the project turned out badly. I had my friend Rolly in Trinidad build me a box of ply would fit in the space behind the toilet. It is 26 inches wide, 8 inches high and 6 inches deep. He built it out end and fibreglassed it inside and out. Before we glassed the lid on I installed a four-inch inspection hatch at each of the top, so if there were ever any blocks (so far there have not been) I would be able to deal with them. I plumbed com- the vent into a nearby rope locker. We gave the tank about a five-degree list to starboard to ensure it would pletely drain. We attached the hoses and it has worked perfectly up to now. I think of it as a way to be courteous to others. Ever since my catamaran, I think of it as a way to be flowing tank, just close the seacock and open the vent. Waste will now start building up in the tank instead of out through. To empty it, simply open the seacock. Gravity feeds it right out, then you close the air vent. To flush be that the tank, simply pump the head with the air valve closed and the seacock open. The tank does not have to big, just enough to hold a few flushes. be much better not to flush the heads if there is anyone swimming anywhere close, and there are times when it is the heads if there is anyone swimming anywhere close, be much better not to flush in Fort de France, Martinique; just when your effluent goes in the sea. For example good to be able to control the bay, among all the yachts, Gosier, Guadeloupe, many locals like to swim around Bridgetown, Barbados; and the slightest chance of meeting certainly be able to do this without even having in early morning. They should anyone’s discharge. of the hose. The effluent from the toilet goes into the top of the tank, flows through the tank and out of the bottom a tank tank, from where it goes straight into the sea. At this point you have a normally operating toilet with plumbed into it. And for much of the time you might well want to use it like this. there was no evidence that the small amount of waste from yacht toilets did any ecological harm, so why not just the small amount of waste from yacht toilets did any there was no evidence that can see there is none. The marine ecological damage has not changed; as far as I flush away? My opinion regarding effluent from yacht toilets. anchor in can easily deal with the small amount of environment that most of us JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 calm seasjustoverthehorizon. take, butkeepapositiveoutlookand you’ll find and youmayfindithardtoseewhat courseto as towheredirectit.Romancewillbefrustrating serve youwellinthefuture. and you’llmakeheadwaycontactsthatwill tion. decide whatareasofyourlifeneedthemostatten- ress. Youwillneedtoreviseyourprioritiesand on boardanditcouldinterferewithboatworkprog- time toinvestthisenergyinboatbusiness. energy, andwithSaturninyoursignit’sagood choppy seasyouwillfeelanupswingofwork ner withaspectsheadingyourway. batteries tobeprepareddealinapositiveman- and justvegout.Youneedtimetorechargeyour in somesecludedcoveawayfromtheusualvibes the firstweekfromanunexpectedsource. bal skillsandwillreceivehelpfulinspirationduring decks forgoodthingstocome. female friendwhowillassistyouinclearingthe way. Youwillfindunexpectedsupportfroma started lastmonthandyouwillmakerapidhead- in thefuture. aspects tothefullestandtheywillpayoffroyally the 11thandforseveralweeksafterthat.Usethese a goodopportunityforprogress,especiallyaround aspect toSaturn,theplanetofbusiness,sohere’s thinking thathavekeptyouinironsthepast. life. Itcouldhelpyoubreakoldhabitsofnegative you lotsoftimetoapplyitsbeneficialeffectsyour your life. smooth outanyroughwatersinthepublicareasof are withwordsandalsoasanopportunityto month. Usethisaspecttoshowhowtalentedyou comic wouldbeinorder. ative verbalskills.Perhapsastintasstand-up sails thismonth,therearegoodaspectsforcre- board onboththephysicalandemotionallevels. center youreffortsonmakingthingscomfortable You canmakegreatpositivewayforwardifyou is whereyourcreativityandromanceareanchored. You willbefullofenthusiasmbut ataloss Use yourincreasedenergyinmarinebusiness There maybeproblemswithyourmainsqueeze While creativityandromancearesurroundedby This willbeagoodmonthtojustsitonthehook You canmakecreativeheadwayusingyourver- Concentrate onthecreativeboatprojectsyou You willbeagaleofworkenergyandareingood Jupiter isinyoursignuntilnextJune.Thiswillgive Your verbalskillswillbeunderfullsailforthe Even thoughyou’llbefeelingnowindinyour There’s noplacelikehome,andthismonththat SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER JULY 2011 AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

Compass CruisingCrossword 32Downof______37) The 33Across+32Down 36) Shapeof4Downsonafull-rigged “boot”country 34) The top4Downs 33) 36Acrossrigged32Downwith 32) Institutionofeducation 31) “Hanghimfromtheyard___!” oftheUSSR +32Down,isfromthisformerpart 29) The thisformerrulerofthehighseas 28) The 1) The 1) ACROSS 27) H Scandinaviancountry 25) The locatedwestof28Across 22) The 19) The 16) The 15) Joined 13) Sea____:spacetomaneuver NovaScotia,southofNew______11) The 10) 36Acrossriggedvesselwithtwomasts 8) Abovethe26Down Scandinaviancountry 7) The 2 O Nippon Maru Kobenhavn Maple Leaf Amerigo Vespucci Sedov Juan SebastiándeElcano Najaden Sagres III Cutty Sark’s Asgard II Concordia © , oncethelargest32Across

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island nation island nation isfrom 18) The 17) Numberofyearssincelaunch a32Down 35) Unitofweightusedtodescribe 32) 4Downingvessel 30) Thetypeof27Acrossinthesea 26) ThewaistoftheEarth 25) Cadetsareyoung______24) Chartforlandlubbers thisnorthernEuropeancountry 23) The coastguardrunsthe 21) With15Across,thecountrywhose countrywhosecapitalisOslo 20) The southof9Down 14) The 12) HoratioHornblowercapturedtheship twobeingthesameheight 10) 32Downwiththreemasts,theforward 9) The 6) Affectionatepronounfora32Down BlackSea 5) The 4) Itcouldbe36Acrossortriangular Aztecemperorofthiscountry 3) The eastof23Down 2) The DOWN Belle Poule Le Rêve Stad Amsterdam Mircea Cuauhtémoc Dar Mlodziezy Mercator Alexander vonHumboldt Christian Radich Etoile , or , isfrom______Solution onpage33 The isfromthiscountryonthe , sister32Downofthe isfromthisnation _____ isnamedafterthe isfromthiscountry Eagle isfrom______isfromthis isfrom

[email protected] ’. Beneath the 12) DREAM 14) FRANCE 17) AGE 18) BELGIUM 20) NORWAY 21) STATES 23) GERMANY 24) MAP 25) SAILORS 26) EQUATOR 30) SALT 32) SHIP 35) TON hot spots 31) ARM 32) SCHOOL 33) TALL 34) ITALY 36) SQUARE 37) CANADA DOWN 2) POLAND 3) MEXICO 4) SAIL 5) ROMANIA 6) SHE 9) HOLLAND 10) BARQUE parlumps marooned parlumps Crossword Solution ACROSS 1) JAPAN 7) DENMARK 8) NORTH 10) BRIG 11) FOUNDLAND 13) ROOM 15) UNITED 16) IRELAND 19) ENGLAND 22) PORTUGAL 25) SWEDEN 27) WATER 28) SPAIN 29) RUSSIA

d s n t A scientist called J. Tuzo Wilson proposed a theory of ‘ The hot spot theory by itself doesn’t involve continental drift. It explains how The chain of volcanic islands that make up the US state of Hawaii are in the a VOLCANO EXPERIMENT Take a plastic soda bottle (with its cap) and half fill with vinegar. Add a large Earth’s crust is the hot liquid mantle. Wilson suggested that some areas under the crust are particularly hot. Convection currents in the mantle would move the hottest material upwards and, at these hot spots, the magma is forced up through cracks in the crust where it becomes known as lava. The lava continues to pour out and forms a volcano. At first, the volcano is under water but, as more and more lava comes out, the volcano height increases until the volcano breaks the surface and forms an island. ONE volcano might be formed in the middle of a plate but it doesn’t explain how a chain of volcanoes might be formed. That’s where continental drift comes in. Let’s look at an example. middle of the Pacific plate. The rocks of the northernmost islands have been found to be older than the rocks of the islands in the south. If you think of the Pacific plate moving slowly to the north over ONE hot spot, you can see that, over millions of years, the magma works its way to the surface in more and more southerly positions, forming new volcanoes as it comes up. The ‘Big Island’ of Hawaii is the youngest island of the chain and is currently over the hot spot. But as the plate moves on (at a speed of about 11 centimetres per year), the next volcanic island has already started to form. Lo’ihi is now only a few thousand feet under water and should surface in the next 100,000 years! l e spoonful of baking soda and rest the cap back on the top of the bottle. (Do not screw it down.) As the soda and vinegar react to form carbon dioxide gas, pressure builds up in the bottle until it pops off the cap and foam seeps over the top and down the sides, just like lava from a real volcano. This is how a volcano erupts, from the pressure of the magma beneath. IIslands o PPoets

— Nan Hatch . ly a l e o s

D e s h i t

e n i

y m

. Scientists theorized that, as the plates moved, magma

l plates m

n by Elaine Ollivierre a I do not like marine parks. I do not like the ‘greenies’, the I do not like parks. marine I do not like ‘inbetweeny’. an I’m these islands — maybe But I do love what is right. who tell us foreigners the I do not like and cause bitterness and fights. the locals, consult don’t They see really never imagination? Do they no they Have comments on our inadequacy That their constant scathing small and vexed? us feel demeaning? Make cruel and Are come with next. will what the fools shrug and wonder it, take But we away will all go they sure for one day mind, But never may we and then perhaps us our inheritance, And leave by, gone was in days Find the camaraderie there try could we and then maybe help each other, would When folks that garbage in the sea teach our kids to be aware To or me. help you and it won’t dirty, nasty, Is ugly, to pelt their plastics in disposal sites, everyone Train might then we for of fish, grounds and spawning the reefs And care be, meant we’d have Become the island people that God must the sea. the tides, of the winds, With pride and local knowledge ourselves for do things when we happen will only Progress on a shelf. our tendency to stuff our projects And discard peoples’ brains, young of drugs that rot our islands free Keep to the island chain. their contribution can make Then they is a must, me dreaming for I am a dreamer, Oh yes, all of us! for our kids, for our islands could be heaven For DOLLY’S DEEP SECRETS

How could this happen? Island Dreaming Island However, some volcanoes were found in the middle of the plates, not round the Geographers mapped the positions of known volcanoes. Their locations showed In order to explain what tsunamis are and how they are formed, we began by edge. from under the Earth’s crust could rise up at the plate edges and form volcanoes, just as it did under the Atlantic. that most volcanoes were concentrated in places around large areas of the Earth’s crust known as looking at the structure of the Earth and the theory of continental drift. One piece of evidence in support of this theory was shown to be the discovery of the Mid- Atlantic ridge with its active volcanoes and formation of new crust material. Where else are volcanoes found? JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 fast andlowinthesouthwesterlysky.Lookforitrisingnorthwestsetting top ofit! east fromthesunat2011hours(seeFigure2) is notrunningforoffice. chances tospotthislittleguy! byScottWelty THE SKYINJULY 31st -Brightsatellite:Genesis2risesat1959:08andsets2011:35*traveling 30th –NextNewMoon 27th -SeeMarsintheearlymorningtwilightwithcrescentmoonsittingon 19th -Mercuryatmaximumelongationfortheyear(seebelow)—settingfarthest 15th -FullMoon 4th -Earthataphelion!Farthestdistancefromthesun.(You’llnotnotice!) 2nd -CrescentmoonsettingwithMercury(seeFigure1) 1st -NewMoon Sky EventsThisMonth SATURN -Settingaround2300to2400hoursandridinginVirgo JUPITER -Risingbetweenmidnightand0100ridinginAries. MARS -Risingaround0315. EARTH -Contemplating,decidingtopickatentativedateperhapsannounceit VENUS -Risesaround0500earlyinthemonthmovingto0600latemonth. MERCURY -Risingafterthesunbutsettingaround2000hoursallmonth.Good The PlanetsinJuly is ataphelion The relativepositionsofSun,EarthandMercuryonthe19th.Notice FIGURE 3: Mercury settingonJuly19thjustunderthebrightstarRegulus FIGURE 2: Crescent moonandMercuryonJuly2ndat1845hours FIGURE 1:

THE CARIBBEANSKY:FREESHOWNIGHTLY!

FIGURE 2 FIGURE 1 FIGURE ward toperhapsseeingyouaswesailthewatersofCaribbean.Stopandsayhi!” Endeavour 40centercockpit where thatplanetwouldhavetobeand,BINGO,wediscoveredNeptune. outside ofUranus’orbitthatwasdisturbingthemotion.Telescopeswerepointedto exactly conformtotheNewtonianideal.Itwaspositedthattherecouldbeaplanet see. Thisissimilartowhenwecouldn’tinitiallyexplainwhyUranus’orbitdidn’t black holes,chubbyunicorns?),butitHAStobethereexplainthemotionsthatwe galaxies. Youcan’tseeit,we’renotsurewhatitismadeof(browndwarfs,neutrinos, tors besidesjustcamerastoanswerthosenaggingquestionsaboutMercury. and -300degreesonthesideaway.TheMessengerprobecarriesavarietyofdetec- Mercury itselfisawhopping800-plusdegreesFahrenheitonthesidefacingsun craft thatcouldsurvivetheextremeconditionsexistthisclosetosun. data ontheentiresurfaceofMercury.Ittookthislongtodesignandbuildaspace- Mercury alwayspresentsthesamefacetosun.Butnowwearegettingtonsof separation betweenthesunandMercurybecauseoftheirrelativepositions,plus Earth, MercuryandtheSunonJuly19th.Doublebonus:wehaveawideangular and beupforshorterduration. of Grenada. due south.Aroundthe2005-hourmarkitwillappearverynearSaturninskies Scott is cruising the Caribbean with Sue and Mismo the Wondercat aboard the 1983 Scott iscruisingtheCaribbeanwithSueandMismoWondercataboard1983 Scott Weltyistheauthorof OH, andthere’s“DarkEnergy”too…staytuned. Summer =MilkyWay(Figure4) To ContemplateWhileHavingaGlassofWineonDeck Good chancestoseeMercurythismonth.Figure3showstherelativepositionsof Tiny Mercury * FarthernorthintheCaribbean,Genesiswillrisealittleearlier,belowersky, FLIGHTS TO & FROMST. LUCIA S/V EneeMarie

The WhyBookofSailing

JURVETSON (FLICKR) JURVETSON FIGURE 4 FIGURE FIGURE 3 FIGURE

NEW JET ADDED TO THE FLEET! is MOSTofthegalaxyandevenspacebetween All explanationspointto“DarkMatter”.Darkmatter much liketheplanetsorbitoursun.Butthey’renot. should befairlysimpleorbitsaboutacentralhub the massofgalaxy. helium mostly)representsonlyabout0.4percentof to appreciatethatall‘stuff’(hydrogenand even giganticallybiggerthanourownsunitishard billions ofstars,eachonewithmassessimilartoor from theother.Asyoulookaboutandcontemplate from heresothatoureyescannotdistinguishone but thosestarsareconcentratedinspaceasviewed light yearsofspace.It’snotreallymilkycourse, dreds ofbillionsstars,spreadoutover100,000 out ononeofthespiralarmsacollectionhun- our sunisoneminormember.We’reabouthalfway the centralhubofourMilkyWaygalaxyinwhich southern skies.Insummeryouarelookingtoward the magnificentMilkyWaystretchupfrom much likeourmoonisaroundtheEarth.Thatis, the sameratethatitisorbitingaroundsun, synchronous orbit,whichmeansitisspinningat to seethe‘otherside’ofMercury.Mercuryisina became abitofmess.Sincethenwehaveyearned Then thatfilmhadtobetakenWalgreen’sandit basically photographedthesamesideofplanet. name!) probeanditonlymadethreepasses space probewasin1974bytheMariner(nice of Mercury.ThelasttimeMercurywasvisitedbya writing hascompletedmorethanahundredorbits Messenger probewaslaunchedinMarchandatthis craters? Toanswerthesequestionsandmorethe but notVenusorMars?Istherefrozenwaterinthe dense? WhydoitandEarthhaveamagneticfield mystery toplanetaryscientists.WhyisMercuryso far fromEarth,andyetMercuryhasremaineda sible valueof26.8degrees. sun), whichgoestomaketheangleitsbiggestpos- Mercury isataphelion(itsfarthestdistancefromthe That’s right.Themotionsofthestarsinourgalaxy What? Once again,mid-summeristhebesttimetosee Mercury istheclosestplanettosunandnotso AIR AMBULANCE . Scotttells New Services: , BurfordBooks,©2007. Compass readers,“Welookfor- JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 : mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccc ...... 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The letter an edu- Metivier to take abused Theo, psychologi- cated 12-year-old boy with scars, off his cal problems and physical to cope hands as the priest was unable with him. not talk anymore. He will not talk here. He cannot stay here. I believe that you can get him to talk. When he does, his This book is available via www.allisonandbusby.co.uk/book/night-calypso. Adding to the drama is the advent of an American base on El Caracol, when, after Be prepared to devote much time to this book. Make it a long leisurely read. You Theo mimics the voices of the characters he’s telling about as he sleeptalks/sleep- Mission accomplished: Dr. Metivier succeeds in getting the boy to talk, just as The drive for the improved rights of the people is taking place in another of The drive for the improved rights of the people is taking place in another of Krishna Singh, the El Caracol pharmacist, who is an admirer of the “black labour But Mother Superior has more than difference of opinion with the doctor. They are But Mother Superior has more than difference of opinion As Dr. Metivier and Sister Thérèse draw closer to each other, Mother Superior is As Dr. Metivier and Sister Thérèse draw closer to each It is 1938. Sister Thérèse’s father, a doctor who is a French Jew, sends her disturb- It is 1938. Sister Thérèse’s father, a doctor who is a French The relationship between Dr. Metivier and Sister Thérèse begins as one of mutual The relationship between Dr. Metivier and Sister Thérèse Meanwhile traffic on the side roads gets just as heavy as Theo’s solo rendition on Meanwhile traffic on the side roads gets just as heavy Dr. Metivier obliges. He brings Theo to live with him on the island. But what Father Dr. Metivier obliges. He brings Theo to live with him on the bombing of Pearl Harbor, Uncle Sam enters the war and makes a deal with the British, swapping destroyers for bases in Trinidad. will savour Scott’s prose describing the sea and landscapes. walks, and, as his story unfolds, Dr. Metivier learns that Theo’s mother was the black housekeeper of a white family, and that one of the family was Theo’s father. It’s a story that takes the doctor back to his youth. During his teenage days he, too, impregnated the daughter of his own family’s black maid. Father Dominic believed he would. Although Theo’s sleeptalk is the way back to the main road, it is slow and bumpy, and exasperating for readers. At times it seems as if Theo needs a map to get him there. Nevertheless, Scott has remained faithful to presenting a character with a psychological disorder and has created a realistic picture of Theo’s troubled personality. the side roads, spearheaded by Dr. Metivier and Krishna Singh, and aided by the side roads, spearheaded by Dr. Metivier and Krishna Singh, and aided by Jonah, the boatman who daily rows Dr. Metivier to and fro across the bay from the doctor’s house to the hospital. Meanwhile, Theo still renders his night calypsos in installments. insight into the leper colony off Trinidad’s west coast at the time. leader, Butler, who had been imprisoned for inciting riots in thirty-seven down South” is also frustrated by the lack of drugs and amenities for the people, as he called the patients. In a heated meeting with Mother Superior he told her, “Mother Superior, you can’t have people living in these hovels, these barrack rooms. You can’t have men living away from their women. These people are people, you know.” on opposite sides when it comes to administering care for their patients: theirs is an on opposite sides when it comes to administering care don’t have the drugs. But issue of faith versus science. Mother Superior said, “We in research, research, what we’ve got is prayer and faith.” Dr. Metivier believed showing love and affection for research, giving sulfa, the new wonder drug a try, and the younger patients. Mother Superior was on the side of decorum. “She was of the school of thought who believed, despite the evidence, that infection was easy. She believed in quarantines. Vincent’s new regime meant increasingly open nursing and proper education in hygiene.” on the lookout. She warns Sister Thérèse, “Dr. Metivier has his own ideas, Sister. on the lookout. She warns Sister Thérèse, “Dr. Metivier Order.” And she reminds the You, on the other hand, must follow the ideals of our doctor that her nuns are the brides of Christ. ing letters about unfolding events in Europe, the pogroms and the “little corporal’s” ing letters about unfolding events in Europe, the pogroms her father’s life. In the Gulf quest for world domination. Sister Thérèse is afraid for gleaming on the lit sea, its below her, “a German destroyer, gun-metal grey and at the pennant in the stern” Swastika appearing and disappearing as the wind tore did not make matters any better. respect and admiration for each other’s work. As they get to know each other better, respect and admiration for each other’s work. As they whenever they get a chance; they share confidences during conversations snatched Dr. Metivier confides they are not allowed to have personal conversations. Gradually, own worries and eventually his concerns about Theo to Sister Thérèse, who has her has a nervous breakdown. the way to the main road. Readers are right there, driving along with Dr. Metivier as the way to the main road. Readers are right there, driving to his patients with the help he makes his rounds on the wards, lovingly attending a researcher and one of the of his young assistant from France, Sister Thérèse Weil, prodigious attention to detail nursing nuns who worked at the hospital. Scott’s as in fact, are all the doc- makes the experience of the ward rounds unforgettable, tor’s encounters with his patients. Dominic did not mention was that the boy’s story takes forever to return to the main Dominic did not mention was that the boy’s story takes winner of the Commonwealth road. So, that’s how Trinidadian author, a previous Scott, sets up his readers to Writers Prize and former Benedictine monk, Lawrence in what is the main listen to Theo’s series of sleeptalks, namely “Night Calypso”, theme of the book. story will go in fits and starts, wander here and there, but it will return. It does story will go in fits and starts, wander here and there, return to the main road….” BOOK REVIEW BY J. WYNNER BOOK REVIEW JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 HOUSEOFSEAFOOD CHATEAU MYGO in thewater. tilt withthebroadendslightlyupward.Eggsseveralweeksoldwillstandupright to developanairpocketinthebroadendofshell,providingbuoyancyandwill will sinkandlieflatonthebottomofcontainer.Week-oldeggshavehadtime of water.Newlylaideggshavelittleairbuoyancyinthem,arerelativelyheavyand to amonth. up odoursfromfoodstoredintheirproximity.Fresheggscanberefrigeratedfor ton. Don’tunpackthemorputinyourrefrigeratoreggholder.Eggswillpick causes themtoloseagreatdealoftheirqualityveryquickly.Keepeggsincar- beaten asasimplefoodoranadditivetomanyrecipes. real eggs.Let’sfaceit,Godhasbeenmakingeggsforeonsandtheycan’tbe These imitationeggscontainnocholesterolbuthavealmostasmuchsodium prised ofeggwhites,starch,skim-milkpowder,vegetableoilandotheradditives. sophisticated eggsareinsmallsupplyandsomewhatexpensive. mainly tothemannerinwhichchickensarebredandfed.However,these terol eggsarenowonthemarket.Thesehavelessthan200mgofcholesteroldue of thesuggested300mgdailymaximumrecommendedforadults.Somelow-choles- D, cholineandphosphorus.Itistheeggyolkthatcontainscholesterol;about200mg of proteinandriboflavin.Eggyolksareagoodsourceprotein,iron,vitaminsA Eggs, inmoderation,shouldbeapartofyourdiet.Eggwhitesareanexcellentsource us somuchdifficulty.Thisappliestofood,resources,moneyandprobablysex. share aswell.Itisthisinsatiableappetitetohavemorethanwerequire,thatcauses people todaynotonlywanttheirshareofeverythinggood,butalsoneighbors’ years, moreandofusexpectdemandasmuchpossiblefromlife.Many BC, fowlwereraiseddomesticallyforeggsandmeat.However,inthepasthundred problems. Eggshavebeeneatenbymanforcountlesscenturies.Asearlyas2,500 often wegotoextremesintryingsolveaproblemanddoingsocreateother demning allsharksbecausesomehavebeenresponsibleforattacksonhumans.Too a BumRap Eggs Get Marigot Bay, St.LuciaPhone:(758)451-4772 VHF 16 Remember, don’tremoveeggsfromyourdietbutdoeattheminmoderation.Here An easywaytomeasureanegg’sfreshnessisplaceitunbrokeninadeepdish Remember tostoreyoureggsinarefrigerator.Storingatroomtemperature Egg substitutesareavailableinsmallcartons.Thisproductisusuallycom- Okay, enoughwiththephilosophy:let’stalkaboutcooking—getcracking! In myhumbleopinion,condemningeggsascholesterol-ladenkillersislikecon- Free watertaxipickupfrom your yachttoourdock! 5 &more people&Captaineats for free! Free dockingforyachtsdiningwithus! * Pizzas * Seafood * Steaks on cocktails&beer! All Day &Night Happy Hour BY ROSSMAVIS choice ofsalsa.Whatagreatwaytoenjoyeggs! up byliftingparchmentpaperfromnarrowendofpan.Becareful,aseggishot. set andcheeseisnicelymelted.Atthispoint,removefromovencarefullyrollegg oregano. Placebackintheovenforabouttwoorthreemoreminutesuntileggsare edges arepartiallydone,removefromovenandsprinklewithcheesechopped onto thebakingsheet.Placeinovenandcookforabout12to15minutes.When and pepperdicedsweetpepper.Mixwelltofullyincorporatepourmixture line thepanandspraywellwithnon-stickspray.) lightly withnon-stickspray.(Ifparchmentpaperisnotavailable,usealuminumfoilto benefit ofeggs. is auniquewayforyouandfewfriendsinvitedonboardbrunchtoenjoythe When rolled,letrestforacoupleofminutesandthensliceservewithyour In alargebowl,beateggswellandaddmilkcontinuetobeat.Addflour,salt Prepare a10x16inchbakingpanbyliningwithparchmentpaperandspraying Preheat ovento350°F. 1 teaspoonchoppedoregano 1 Cupgratedcheddarcheese 1 sweetpepper,diced 1/4 teaspoongroundblackpepper 1 teaspoonsalt 1/3 Cupflour 1 Cupmilk 10 eggs,beaten Egg OmeletRoll JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 ! The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Compass Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of are now back as DVDs. REMEMBER restaurants and hotels. Street’s videos, first made in 1985,

Street’s guides are timeless. Street’s Guides and DVDs are available NEW! With all these updates readily available, Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com. up-to-date Imray charts. Regarding marine information on tracking and securing for a storm. ☛ Full information on DVDs at www.street-iolaire.com up-to-date than any guide; similarly, the tourist or from www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com departments put out a free annual guide for bars, infrastructure, virtually every island puts out a free to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in marine trade guide every year, which is much more DVDs available at Imray, Kelvin Hughes, Armchair Sailor/ Rocks don’t move — or if they do they are shown on at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware, GOOD GUIDES ARE TIMELESS JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. Stock Up on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Hubbard’s HURRICANE TIPS! Real sailors use Street’s Guides for inter-island and harbor piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people, places and history. Street’s Guides are the only ones that describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. • “Transatlantic with Street” documents a sailing passage from Ireland to Antigua via the Cape Verdes. 2 hours • “Antigua Week ’85” is the story of the engineless yawl Iolaire racing round the buoys to celebrate her 80th birthday. 1 hour • “Street on Knots” demonstrates the essential knots and line-handling skills every sailor should know. 1 hour • “Streetwise 1 and 2” give tips that appeared in the popular video Sailing Quarterly, plus cruises in the Grenadines, Venezuela and southwest coast of Ireland magazine for Compass , back in 2001, I bought —Continued on next page Ti Kanot Readers, , Compass Compass Clearly by its own modus operandi, the Grenada There is no doubt about the huge contributions that The Grenada Board of Tourism expresses its grati- Sincerely, Edwin Frank Public Relations Officer Grenada Board of Tourism Dear When I saw this trashing, I went to one of the local trashing, I went to one When I saw this May 30th. These madmenMore dumping occurred on something like this hap- I am outraged. How could Please sign me, Concerned for a Clean Carriacou Dear Concerned, We passed your letter on to Edwin Frank of the Grenada CC Dear Further to being made aware of a letter of complaint Indeed, the Board is grateful that this opportunity is Kudos to Kyocera and Island Water World! When I built my cat, However as the years passed, it seemed to me I was I complained about this to Brian at Caribbean I think to myself, “It is now ten years later. I know it to express its total abhorrence of such behaviour, it to express its total abhorrence of such behaviour, and to make it known that the matter has been drawn to the attention of the Royal Grenada Police Force who are at present being aided in their investigations by the alleged culprits. It is important to note that there was an immediate reaction by one of the dive shops in Carriacou, Lumba Dive, who contacted the wardens of the Marine Protected Areas (SIOBMPA). Board of Tourism is aware of the need to constantly protect both the land and marine environment. It is therefore truly regrettable that unscrupulous individ- uals would have chosen to embarrass Grenada so wantonly by their actions. yachting visitors make towards the sustainable and balanced development of Carriacou’s tourism industry. Indeed the people of Carriacou are saddened to learn of this incident, since they pride themselves as being environmentally conscious and frown constantly on any form of littering. Just recently a group of 34 divers and non-divers on the island participated in a massive beach clean-up campaign, which is one of several such clean-up initiatives that are organized annually. tude to the visiting yacht personnel for expressing their disappointments and urges all yacht users to call (473) 405-7490 to report any illegal activity that they may witness. “his”. These guys’ behavior was clearly a danger to the behavior was clearly a “his”. These guys’ the feeling and we visiting boaters got environment, be a danger to us, too! that they might what was Tyrell Bay to let them know dive shops in a mile-long to make them aware that going on, and toward the sadly but surely traveling garbage line was Authority, The dive shop phoned the Port park’s reserve. As far as I stop this guy’s trashing. hoping they could up. from the Port Authority showed know, no one old rusty freezer that almostgot rid of more cans, plus an out of the anchorage. hit a catamaran as it floated do to watch silently? But pen? Was it all we could past, and we still have the these incidents are in the is at least one thing we can future. In the future, there to dumping trash into the do. These guys, in addition also sell wine to the boat- pristine waters of Tyrell Bay, one of them arrives at ers anchored there. Next time you want to support these your boat, you can decide if everybody who wit- litterbugs or not. I also encourage to mention it while clear- nessed any of this dumping hope that if enough people ing out at Customs. Let’s the Board of Tourism. spread the news, it might reach taken against such activity Then maybe action can be tourists. before it drives away all the Board of Tourism for his response, which follows. regarding the experience of dumping that was wit- nessed in Tyrell Bay in Carriacou, the Grenada Board of Tourism is both shocked and appalled that this behaviour was indeed factual. being provided by the popular enough 50-watt Kyocera solar panels from Island Water World in St. Maarten to take up the available space on my hardtop. At first these worked like a giant; I was delighted when my panels actually broke a 20-amp fuse, and they easily kept up with my small fridge, lighting and computer. getting a little less power each year. In order to keep up I added another solar panel (different make), and that got me by for a couple of years. Then even that was not enough, so I bought a windmill to try and make up the difference. But by last year, in full sun, the panels which once broke a 20-amp fuse almost never limped as high as ten amps even in the strongest sunlight. Marine in Trinidad and he told me, “The panels almost never go bad; it must be your system.” So I had him come and check everything and eventually he agreed — the panels were not performing as they should. He added, “Kyocera are an excellent company. You should contact them”. where I bought the panels, but I have no receipt or record of the purchase. I doubt I will get far.”

' S R E , , M is right on — except he uses too broad is right on — except he uses U D A R Compass Compass Compass E O Actually, one visiting boater, coming back to her We are liveaboards who have been traveling the Don Street Glandore, Ireland Dear What Stuart is describing as “yachties” the late Ross Dear The proper yachtsman or yachtswoman would not Stuart Dalgliesh’s Letter of the Month in the MayStuart Dalgliesh’s Letter of FFORUM READERS' RREADERS' yacht in her dinghy, did slow down and ask, “What are you doing?” One of the men loudly told her to go to hell and threw trash at her, yelling that the water was bay and off the coast of the new marine park, a deli- cate, supposedly “protected” area. But can we still call that a marine protected area if dumping goes on without any sanction? beautiful Caribbean for more than two years. Recently, beautiful Caribbean for more than two years. Recently, while anchored in Tyrell Bay, Carriacou, I was witness to the most shocking and sad event I’d seen in my whole trip. On May 28th two local men who are often aboard an old wooden sailboat at anchor in Tyrell Bay were cleaning their boat. One filled up a big cardboard box with trash and handed it to the other man on deck, who dumped all of its contents overboard, right in the middle of the anchorage in front of everybody. This was shocking enough, but they filled up the cardboard box again and dumped some more. The box must have held around four cubic feet of garbage. Not the biodegradable kind, either: mostly tin cans and plastic tied up in bundles. This dumping went on for about an hour under the eyes of many horrified boaters. By the time the two dumpers were finished, the floating garbage line stretched about a mile out the Lulley (1923 – 1991) would describe as “water people”. Lulley (1923 – 1991) would describe as “water people”. Ross founded a fishing supply shop in Bequia in 1950. I remember Ross saying, “I have been watching the yachting scene develop over the last 40 years. I spent 18 months in China right after World War Two on a navy ship in various harbors. We dealt continually with water people, so I know what water people are. As each year goes by, I see more and more water people and fewer and fewer yachtsmen.” be bringing garbage ashore and throwing it in the be bringing garbage ashore and throwing it in the mangroves, and when they saw the beach and mangroves being cleaned up would immediately pitch in and help. issue of The proper yachts- a term when referring to “yachties”. man or yachtswoman, of which there are all too few sailing today, when anchored in Saltwhistle Bay would be either moored bow and stern (with either bow or stern facing into the swell depending on the design of the boat), or anchored on a proper Bahamian moor as is described on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts. If anchored with a Bahamian moor — i.e. two widely spaced anchors set from the bow — the boat will swing to wind or current, but will take up little more space than a circle slightly larger than the length of the boat. JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 sent upanadditionaldelayedsurface marker buoy, directly overus.Toprotectmystudents I immediately the waterandtostayclear.Thecatamaran drifted used toindicateotherwater-usersthat diversarein with whitediagonalstripe)onourdive boat whichis repositioned outfromthereef. Eventually aftermuchshowtheyraised anchorand dismissed ourrequestforthecatamaran tobemoved. keel wasaboutonemetreoffthetopof thereef)and around here—Iknowthelaws”(obviouslynotashis boat thencameondeckandtoldus“Iknowthewaters if peopleanchoreddirectlyontoit.Thecaptainofthe I toldthemthatthereefwouldn’tbetheremuchlonger was alreadydamagetothereeffromtheiranchorand wanted tosnorkel.Wecouldseeunderwaterthatthere over thereef.Theyrespondedbysayingtheyonly an areawithnoreefandusetheirtendertocomeout and Iaskedthepeopleonboardtomovetheirboat international solosailor.MythreeDivemastertrainees company ascaptainandfirstmatetheotherisan candidates workforawell-establishedlocalcharter (no excusesfornotknowingitisthere).Twoofmy and hasthewestcardinalmarkeratcornerofit metre (15foot)pristinecoralreef.Thisreefisoncharts lots ofchainandtheiranchordirectlyontothefive when wewitnessedabigchartercatamarandropping scuba divingtoourthreePADIDivemastercandidates and workonBequiaasascubadivinginstructor. fantastic andhealthycoralreefsaroundBequia.Ilive get whatyoupayfor! can youasanownerexpectfromunpaidcrew?You tain witheveryrequestthatisasked.Buthowmuch water thateventheunpaidcrewwouldassistcap- Owners wouldexpectiftheboatgotintotroubled shit hitsthefan,theycouldprovetobeessential. experienced crew,buttheystillholdvalueandifthe enced crewshouldbepaid,perhapslessthanthe left thaninexperiencedandunprofessionalcrew. leave theindustrytheyloveuntilthereisnothingelse This mayinthelongrunforcebetterqualifiedto for ‘experience’andsomethingtowriteontheirCV.” newbies tobepaidnothingfordayworkinexchange dayworkers andsoitgoesonuntilis‘thenorm’for rates tocompete.Ownerswillreducetheirbudgetfor “Experienced dayworkerswillbeforcedtolowertheir ity ofthecrewdown.AsAlistairwritesonhisblog, industry asawholeitisbad,willforcethequal- get work.”It’snotgoodforyouortheindustry.For pery slopeforotherdayworkersthatarealsotryingto that countryissatisfied. kation ortheboatcanbehelduntilImmigrationfor to getaflightbacktheircountryorplaceofembar- deliveries andmoreover,thatthecrewhaveright (IMO), whichstatesthatrepatriationisrequiredfor down bytheInternationalMaritimeOrganisation forget toinformthecrewaboutregulationlaid the sailingindustry.Furthermore,oftenowners as Iknowthisisanunheard-ofphenomenonoutside exchange forworkandacoupleofseamiles.Asfar in Palma.Somecaptainsnowexpectyoutopay worse intheCaribbeanthanwhatAlistairdescribes Caribbean, andinsomewaysthesituationiseven times forced into working for free to gain experience. times forcedintoworkingforfreetogainexperience. newbies intheindustryMediterraneanaresome- Blogs.aspx?id=41054&blogid=33356), hedescribeshow — on crew labor.InablogwrittenbyAlistairLePoerTrench growing frustrationamongcrew-workersaboutfree crew workIcompletelyunderstandacommonand such excellentservicefrombothcompanies. power. Itisagreatpleasuretobeablereporton as muchtheoldones,onceagaingivingmeample new panels,wattforwatt,areputtingoutabouttwice (Kyocera paidforthefreight.) small job)whichhadtobereturnedKyocera. took careofallthepackagingoldpanels(no vice: theynotonlyreceivedthenewpanelsforme,but World alsowentbeyondtheboundsofreasonableser- Water WorldwhenIwasinSt.Maarten.Island decided, theyshippedthenewpanelstoarriveatIsland original sizewerenolongeravailable.Oncethatwas should replacetheoldoneswith,aspanelsof had alittleback-and-forthaboutwhichpanelsthey offered toreplacethepanelsatmyconvenience.We when theywerecompletelyhelpfulfromthestartand an e-mailtoKyocera.Iwasdelightedandsurprised We alsohadawell-displayed“diverdown” flag(red On June8thatDevil’sTablereef,Iwasteaching I’m writingthistotryandraiseawarenessofour Hello Karin RosenChristensen Best, I feelthateventheseinexperiencedorlessexperi- As pointedoutbyAlistair,workingforfreeis“aslip- Unfortunately a Having crewed on yachts myself and searched for Having crewedonyachtsmyselfandsearchedfor Dear Compass, Ti Kanot Chris Doyle Sincerely, I havebeenabsolutelydelightedwiththeresult.The Nonetheless, Itooktheserialnumbersanddropped Continued frompreviouspage

dockwalk.com (www.dockwalk.com/MyDockwalk/ Compass ,

similar situationcanbeseeninthe

Letters maybeeditedforlength,clarityand fairplay. name maybewithheldfromprintat your request. We donotpublishanonymousletters;however, your individual regattaresultscomplaints.(Kudosareokay!) e-mail) ifclarificationisrequired. address, andawaywecancontactyou(preferablyby ommendation forcruisers. feet, thehighestinCaribbean. mountains thatreachthesurprisingaltitudeof10,000 where weseelargepyramidsofsaltreadytobebagged. rant wallinaprominentplace. alcoholism. ApaintingofNataliaadornstherestau- much soshediedattheearlyageofsevenyears goat, whodevelopedastrongfondnessforbeer,so plantains Then theyprepareittoyourorderwithsalad,rice, are takentoarefrigeratorwhereyouselectyourfish. wonderful littlerestaurantnamedRinconMarino.You water areavailableforanextrafee. ing atthemarinaisonlyUS$10aday.Powerand Dominican specialtiesatareasonablepriceanddock- and helpwithallourneeds.Thehotelservesdelicious owner JorgeDomenechhasgivenusagreatwelcome comfortable lifeonboard. tected onallsidescreatingnice,flat,calmwaterfora coast oftheDominicanRepublic.Itisalargebay,pro- cruisers. ItiscalledSalinasanditonthesoutheast truly professionalcharterskipper. anchoring, eveniftechnicallylegal,isnotasignof death tothecoralpolypsandreef. a metalhookandthedraggingofchainoveritspell or nextyear.Coralisalivingorganismandthebiteof that you’llwanttobringyourguestsseenextweek you damagecoral,aredestroyingtheverybeauty ing insensitiveareassuchascoralreefs. toward puttingmechanismsinplacetopreventanchor- ing atrevisingtheexistinglegislationandmoving Ryan tellsusthattheSVGgovernmentis,infact,look- should alsobeillegal.ChiefFisheriesOfficerRaymond age oncoral—especiallyinConservationAreas corals, soitseemsobviousthatinflictinganchordam- the particularaimsofConservationAreasistoprotect ten permissionoftheChiefFisheriesOfficer),andone where inSVG’smarineenvironment(withoutthewrit- ing isnotprohibitedinConservationAreas. of marineprotectedareas,though,andcurrentlyanchor- Areas arethemostlightlyprotectedofvarioustypes and 61°15.6’W”isaConservationArea. and 13°00.9NbetweenLongitudes61°15.37’W known asDevil’sTablebetweenLatitudes13°00.5’N “the northwesterncoastofBequiaincludingthearea generations ofwater-userscanenjoythemtoo. breeding areassoyourfriends,familiesandfuture dive sitewithus. Baksh totakepromotionalunderwaterphotosatthis Snyderman and sent Emmy-awardwinningcinematographerMarty healthy reef.TheSVGDepartmentofTourismrecently Table reefisthebestsiteforbreeding,macrolifeand underwater photographerswhoclaimthatDevil’s ghies, etcetera).Ihavedivedwithmanyprofessional and theyaredesignedtoholdsmall-sizedtenders(din- welcome tousethem,alongsidetheDiveBequiaboats, ward coast,includingtwoonDevil’sTable.Everyoneis maintains buoysonallthereefsitesaroundlee- towards eachother. all needtobeawareofotherusersandconsiderate for boating,fishing,divingandotherwatersportswe dive boat’sflag.Withincreaseduseofthesameareas even thoughwewerewithintheareaprotectedby St. Vincent&theGrenadines Box 175BQ,BequiaVC0400 Readers’ Forum Compass PublishingLtd. or [email protected] Send yourlettersto: We donotpublishindividualconsumercomplaintsor Be suretoincludeyourname,boatnameorshoreside We wanttohearfromYOU! Dear Morgan 38 S/V Gaia Bill andSoonGloege We givethisanchorageabigFiveStarsandourrec- The bayhasabackdropofthehighDominican The mainindustriesherearefishingandsaltponds A former“client”oftherestaurantwasNatalia, In thesmall,peacefulpuebloofSalinaswefounda We areanchoredinfrontoftheSalinasHotelwhere We justfoundagemofbaymadeespeciallyfor Dear CC Meanwhile, chartercaptainspleasebeawarethatif However, itisillegalto“takeorcollect”coralsany- According tothelawsofSt.Vincent&Grenadines, Dear Polly, Bequia Polly Philipson Wishing yousafe,funandexcitingtimesonBequia. Please, pleaserespectthebeautifulcoralreefsand Dive Bequia(www.divebequia.com)hasinstalledand Compass Compass frito orfrenchfries.Thecost—around$5. Readers, Readers, Blue Caribbean magazine’sSolomon

Destructive JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 s s ’ e c d i v r r a e S

h s c St. Lucia cannot be matched. m Marine (758) 458-1505

o Insurance My claims settlement record n Efﬁ cient handling cient handling Efﬁ www.street-iolaire.com t Yacht Provisioning Yacht New Services: Fax: Cell: (758) 484-3170 Tel: (758) 458-1504 Tel: insurance. You never know how good s The insurance business has changed. insurance, but there is no good cheap No longer can brokers talk of low rates. Brokerage services and Brokerage Rather, the honest broker can only say, a your insurance is until you have a claim. There is good insurance, there is cheap “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” AIR AMBULANCE u l e-mail: [email protected] of all your import and export. of all your import and [email protected] Customs Services CCustoms I have been connected with the marine insurance BBlanchard’s www.blanchardscustomservices.cbt.cc business for 47 years. I have developed a rapport with brokers and underwriters at Lloyds and am able to introduce boat owners to specialist brokers in the Lloyds market. FLIGHTS TO & FROM ST. LUCIA LUCIA & FROM ST. TO FLIGHTS

in the past 18 on the mainland Cruising Guide to Venezuela and Bonaire (slum) areas; we took bona-fide taxis in the evening barrio Letter of of Letter Month the Moon Dog taxis; we avoided walking in known in 2011. A big reason for the reduction of crimes reported recently is undoubtedly the drastic in 2011. A big reason for the reduction of crimes reported none John and Ruth Martin Yacht 53’ Amel Super Maramu ketch por puesto We hope this helps fellow yachties make a more informed decision about visiting eastern Venezuela in the next We hope this helps fellow yachties make a more informed decision about visiting eastern Venezuela in the Regarding other cruising grounds in eastern Venezuela, the prevailing advice for the Mochima area and the Regarding other cruising grounds in eastern Venezuela, the prevailing advice for the Mochima area and We also spent several memorable weeks in the truly magnificent and very special Los Roques Archipelago, a a We also spent several memorable weeks in the truly magnificent and very special Los Roques Archipelago, The Margarita Customs, Immigration and Capitania offices are now all co-located there in Porlamar just a bit The Margarita Customs, Immigration and Capitania offices are now all co-located there in Porlamar just Puerto La Cruz is clearly the yachting capital of Venezuela. The Doyle Puerto La Cruz is clearly the yachting capital of Venezuela. labor-intensive projects done, such as paint, gelcoat and For our needs, PLC was ideal to get many long-needed Regarding crime, during our five-month visit, we never had any type of criminal incident, either in town or on Regarding crime, during our five-month visit, we never We thoroughly enjoyed our visit, to the extent that we have abandoned our earlier plan to continue westward (to visit, to the extent that we have abandoned our earlier We thoroughly enjoyed our Having recently spent five months in Venezuela (Puerto La Cruz, Los Roques, Tortuga and Margarita; February months in Venezuela (Puerto La Cruz, Los Roques, Tortuga Having recently spent five Venezuela for more than a year had all experienced some All this said, most yachties we met who had been in Margarita and Testigos seem to have the worst record for crime and yachts are behaving accordingly. We saw Margarita and Testigos seem to have the worst record few years. We have also submitted articles to both Noonsite and the Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) which few years. We have also submitted articles to both Noonsite and the Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) provide many more specific details on services, prices, etc, that would be helpful for a cruiser’s visit. western parts of the Golfo de Cariaco is to travel in groups of two or three boats and to be careful at night (no western parts of the Golfo de Cariaco is to travel in groups of two or three boats and to be careful at night removable gear on deck; prevent human access to the cabin; lock or raise dinghy). The eastern end of Cariaco, particularly the village of Medregal, is still regarded as very safe and also an affordable place for long-term storage on the hard. Venezuelan National Park. Crime continues to be unheard of here. Gran Roque is still not a port of entry and if and if Venezuelan National Park. Crime continues to be unheard of here. Gran Roque is still not a port of entry a yachts present themselves to the authorities without proper clearance into Venezuela, they will not receive 22.8 warm welcome. The current park fees (just increased in March 2011) are 152 Bolivares per person and the Bolivares per foot boat length for a 15-day stay. This can be renewed for a second 15-day period by paying same fees again. east of Marina Juan, thus making clearance a much easier process than before. You can clear in/out yourself, east of Marina Juan, thus making clearance a much easier process than before. You can clear in/out yourself, agent. although some knowledge of Spanish will be helpful, or Marina Juan can also be hired to serve as your Sigo Marina Juan still provides a secure dinghy dock and arranges a free shuttle bus several times a week to the no supermarket, which has a great grocery selection as well as the duty free shop. In February 2011, there was off longer any WiFi service in the anchorage although some yachts anchored on the western side could poach private signals from the beachfront hotels. fiberglass repairs. We were so pleased with the workmanship and affordability that we also now plan to get even and affordability that we also now plan to get even fiberglass repairs. We were so pleased with the workmanship boat more improvements done during hurricane season. Less skilled but still very competent laborers for general US cleaning, waxing and polishing can be hired for about 150 bolivars a day or you can contract by the job. bring name-brand marine products can usually be purchased, but at a premium price due to import taxes, so and your own or consider using similar Venezuelan (or other South American) brands that may be equally good much cheaper. if we went out to dinner. When anchored out, once the sun goes down, we always have our ventilated “burglar if we went out to dinner. When anchored out, once the and of course the dinghy is locked up. When travelling any bars” well secured in our companionway and hatches, attention to nearby or approaching vessels, and had our distance offshore or between islands, we paid special direct from Trinidad to Margarita, starting at night and response plan well rehearsed ahead of time. We sailed with lights to simulate a fishing vessel rather than a sail- staying 20 miles north of the Paria Peninsula, running as there was always a large ship within eight miles of boat. It was comforting to have AIS (receive only) on board, Although the ship wouldn’t have guns, it would have cam- us that we could hail by name to request assistance. if needed. eras and perhaps be able to render medical or other assistance the numerous marinas, major chandleries and marine ser- (3rd Edition, 2006) gives a pretty good summary of we are into 2011. For security reasons, yachts no longer vices available, although it’s becoming dated now that put into a marina in the El Morro Lagoon development anchor off the PLC downtown area (Paseo Colon); all yachts of American yachties, and still where most cruising yachts area. We chose Bahia Redonda Marina, once the favorite more European now that Americans have chosen to pass choose to stay although the cruising community is now cove, has floating docks, lovely grounds, a gorgeous Venezuela up. Bahia Redonda is located in a well-protected internet as well as two travel agents, a laundry, mini- pool, showers/toilets, barbecue area, cable TV and WiFi to the marina is a full-service boatyard with travelift. But market and a restaurant all located on-site. Directly next by 7, and several security guards are stationed around the best of all, Bahia Redonda has outstanding security 24 at the end of our pier, 20 feet from our stern). grounds, on-duty all night long (one was even stationed our boat. Yes, some of the prior crimes against yachties have been especially heinous, but they seem to be the our boat. Yes, some of the prior crimes against yachties crime”. A quick look at crimes reported on various websites small minority now compared to the amount of “petty few crimes against yachts (Safety & Security Net, Noonsite, WiFiGuy) show very spend the 2011 hurricane season in Curaçao) and now plan to keep our boat in Bahia Redonda Marina in Puerto season in Curaçao) and now plan to keep our boat in spend the 2011 hurricane situation in the country 2011. While crime remains a real concern, and the economic La Cruz (PLC) for the rest of and the Venezuelan people is much to enjoy in Venezuela. The climate is marvelous continues to be difficult, there and reasonably priced. Fuel is beef, chicken and seafood are outstanding lovely. Venezuelan fruit, vegetables, (June 2011), and mindful of care is good and very affordable. As of current writing extremely cheap, and medical prices are especially a bargain for anyone arriving with the ongoing 25- to 30-percent inflation rates, Venezuelan obtained, is about double the official rate. This black mar- US dollars, as the “black market” exchange rate, easily travel to South American destinations or for visiting the ket rate can also be a big advantage for planning inland and the black market rate is around 8.0B/US$. US or Europe. Currently the official rate is about 4.3B/US$ through June 2011), we’d like to offer our perspective on visiting these areas by yacht. Although many fellow cruis- to offer our perspective on visiting these areas by yacht. through June 2011), we’d like visiting Venezuela would be a big set foot in Venezuela) advised us adamantly that ers in Trinidad (who had never had three primary goals: spend risk-benefit trade-off and decided to give it a try. We mistake, we made our own boat, spend some leisurely time Cruz to get numerous long-needed repairs done to our several weeks in Puerto La up on duty-free wine and rum. Park, and make a quick stop in Margarita to stock exploring Los Roques National being the most common). Such street crime is unfortu- type of criminal event (purse/bag snatching or petty theft We were very careful travelling around Puerto La Cruz: nately also the case for almost all South American nations. the big central produce market in small groups, but using we never wore ”good” watches or jewelry; we went to the local Dear Readers’ Forum, to at least 100 when we visited there in 2003); a friend about 25 yachts in Porlamar in February 2011 (as opposed Venezuelan Coast Guard is patrolling very visibly around reported only 12 there in May 2011. However, the and we understand the Coast Guard station at Testigos is Margarita and also eastward along the Paria Peninsula, taking more assertive steps to prevent crime in that vicinity. months, and but the statistics are encouraging. reduction in the number of yachts visiting Venezuela, JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 appear in the SOUTH COAST ST. GEORGE’SAREA Ahoy, Caribbean Compass True BlueBay Turbulence Sails Spice IslandMarine Prickly BayMarina McIntyre Bros Martin’s Marina Le PhareBleuMarina Island View Grenada Marine Essentials Mini-Market De BigFish Budget Marine Tikal Port LouisMarina Marine World Island WaterWorld Grenada YachtClub Art Fabrik Compass bold PICK UP! ): Readers!WheninGrenada,pickupyourfreemonthlycopyof atanyoftheselocations(advertisersinthisissue the hotel and marina, and enjoyed another great day ashore in St. Thomas. the hotelandmarina,enjoyedanother greatdayashoreinSt.Thomas. assume thishappenswithtouristsquite often. Carproblemsolved,wedrovebackto 9:00 us thatweowedhim$5forleavingthe carthereovernight.Heonlyworksuntil your averagecoolReggaeman.Weexplained thesituationandhegraciouslyinformed was sittingthererightwhereweleftit.Lucky forus,thelotattendantonhandwas there inthemorning. nowhere. SowecaughtacabbacktoSapphireBeachandprayedthecarwould be the evening,anditwasobviousthatwithoutagateopenerourcargoing returned totheparkinglotforcar.Toobad—waslockedup for YOUR OWNRISK”.Butnaturally,wedidn’tpayanyattentiontothesign! for acoupleofhours.Idovaguelyrememberseeinglargesignthatread“PARK AT condominiums. Weparkedthecarandtookourchancesthatitwouldbeallright drag andpulledintotheonlyspacewecouldfind:aparkinglotattachedtosome that wasobviouslypaidparkingbutnolotattendant,sowedrovedownthemain Red Hooklookingforaparkingspotneartherestaurants.Therewas lot conscious oftheparkingsituationinRedHook.OnSaturdaynight,wedrovearound various typesofCaribbeandininginRedHook,soyouhaveplentyoptions. tainment andatwo-storeyviewofthewater.YouwillfindMexican,Italian,Thai, and are readyforanightout.MollyMalone’sisfuncasualrestaurantwithliveenter- Across thestreet,you’llfindagrocerystoreandsomecoollocalrestaurantsif you Latte’s, perfectforyourmorningcupofJoeandthebonuspeople-watching. and wellworththetrip.Thereisawonderfuloutdoorcaféonwaterfrontnamed ball inthewaterwithhisfinsandmask. up to.Ipreferjustloungingonthebeach,butitwasnicetoseeDominichavinga off thebeach—therearecolorfulcorals,fishandseaturtlesthatyoucanswimright and afabulouspoolarea.Bruno’s13-year-oldgrandsonreallylovedsnorkelingright they’re alwaysgladyoucame”. reminds meofthethemefromCheers:“Whereeverybodyknowsyourname,and Red Hook.However,wepreferamorelaid-backfeelandNiles’personaltouch,which You canalsotrytheAmericanYachtHarbourMarina,whichiscentrallylocatedin ideal ifyouwanttobeinthecenteroftownanddosomeseriousduty-freeshopping. For example,inCharlotteAmalie,theIGYYachtHavenGrandMarina(seephoto)is always aroundtolendahelpinghand.TherearealsolargermarinasinSt.Thomas. is themanager:NilesPearsalljustoneofnicestpeopleyouwillevermeet.He’s choose fromtosuityourtaste,andeveryislandhasitsownlocalcolor. for lunchordinner!Therearenumeroussafeanchoragesandavarietyofmarinasto What athrilltowakeupinthemorningandsailcoupleofhoursanotherisland ful scenicislandsoftheCaribbean,witheasyline-of-sightsailingevenfornewbies. to enjoyalloftheBritishVirginIslands—youwillsailpastsomemostbeauti- Painkiller. Fromthere,youcansailthecalmwatersofSirFrancisDrakeChannel ing ball,checkinwithCustoms,thendinghyovertoPusser’satSoper’sHolefora make yourcheckin/checkoutatthesametimetosaveyouatripback.Grabmoor- check inatBVICustoms.TheCustomsofficialstherearereallyhelpful,andcan to spendanightinSapphireBeachMarinacatchuponoursleepandregroup. takes uscloseto24hourssailfromPonceSt.Thomas.Whenwearrive,like Thomas nearRedHookandputsusrightintotheSirFrancisDrakeChannel.It convenient stepping-stoneonourwaytotheBVI.ItislocatedateastendofSt. way around—orsowethought! Beach MarinatwomonthspreviouslyfortheRolexRegatta,sowealreadyknewour the SapphireBeachResortandMarina.Wehaddockedourboatat family memberswhowerethereonvacation.Theyhadreservationsforacondoat around theCaribbeanwhilemakingPonce YachtandFishingClubtheirhomeport. third intheClassicsDivisionat2011 BVISpringRegatta.Theycontinuetocruise Shore Leave inSt.Thomas Bruno BruchandNanetteEldridgeof The next day, Niles gave us a two-minute dinghy ride to Red Hook to get the car. It The nextday,Nilesgaveusatwo-minutedinghyridetoRedHookgetthecar. It We wereinthemoodforfinediningandateatPesce.Afterawonderfuldinner,we We didnothaveacarwhenwevisitedSt.ThomasinMarch,soIadmittobeing The marinaislocatedjustashorttaxiridefromRedHook,aboutUS$5perperson At Sapphirethereisapleasantprivatebeachwithvolleyballnetalreadysetup Back onSt.Thomas,oneofthemainreasonswelikeSapphireBeachMarina From RedHookorSapphire,itislessthantwohours’sailtoTortola’sWestEndfor Our homeportisPonce,PuertoRicoandwethinkofSapphireBeachMarinaasa At theendofMay,BrunoandIspentMemorialDayweekendinSt.Thomaswith PM , and then the gates are closed for the evening. He was not too surprised, so I , andthenthegatesareclosedforevening. Hewasnottoosurprised,soI WHAT’S ONMYMIND by NanetteEldridge S/V Geronimo areactiveracerswhoplaced JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 2,000,000 $950,000 €340,000 $ 2007 50’ Catana 2007 50’ Catana 2000 47’ 2007 73’ Executive $78,500 Northeast Classic 38’ 1967 Le Comte Excellent Condition $749,000 $619,000 €4.900.000

2008 89’ Catana 2008 89’

2008 50’ Lagoon 2008 50’

1999 60’ Fountaine Pajot 1999 60’ Sail Power [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-4803 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 www.stthomasyachts.com Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, $74,500 C.G. Documented for 42 passengers 42’ 1971 Grand Banks ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES YACHT THOMAS ST. Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale Call, fax or visit our website for a complete 36’ 1980 Albin Stratus, daysail business separate cond. 38’ 1967 Le Comte, Northeast 38, classic, excellent 44’ 1988 Morgan Catalina, excellent cond. 50’ 1978 Nautor M Sailer, refit, excellent cruiser $80,000 37’ 1986 CML Trawler, Great liveaboard, needs engs. 28’ 1990 Cape Dory, Flybridge MY $45,000 42’ 1971 Grand Banks, Wooden classic, CG cert. 48’ 2004 Dyna Craft MY, 450 Cats, 3 strms $325,000 $20,000 $119,000 $89,900 $295,000 $45,000 (boat races, music)

went to press — but plans change, CALENDAR Compass to [email protected] and contact information of the organizing body this issue of so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. Tobago Heritage Festival. www.visittobago.gov.tt BVI Emancipation Festival Carriacou Regatta Festival. www.carriacouregatta.com Canouan Carnival, Grenadines Tour des Yoles Rondes, Martinique. www.tourdesyoles.com please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name Black Boaters’ Summit, BVI. blackboaterssummit.com Dominica Dive Fest. www.dominica.dm/site/divefest.cfm Traditional Sailing Canoes. Round Guadeloupe Race for French islands Bastille Day. Celebrations on www.caribbeancompass.com All information was correct to the best of our knowledge at the time Calabash Festival, Montserrat. BVI Billfish Tournament. Tournament. Billfish BVI Premier’s Cup, Tortola (IC24 youth sailing) KATS & Barbuda (Antigua Carnival) Public holiday in Antigua Carnival Windward Fête, Lorient, St Barth’s (boat races and fishing tournament) Grenada Vincent Carnival) Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines (St. Yacht Club (WEYC), Firecracker 500 Race, BVI. West End FREE Caribbean Compass On-line FREE Great Race (powerboats) from Trinidad to Tobago Fishermen’s Beach Fête, Castara, Tobago Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago (Independence Day) FULL MOON FULL Public holiday in Haiti (Assumption Day). Public Fête, St. Barth’s St. Barthélemy Day, Gustavia, St. Barth’s (boat races, music) St. Louis Fête, Corossol, St. Barth’s MOON Public holiday in the Bahamas (Independence Day) Clean-Up, Bonaire. Underwater FULL St. Croix, USVI. Cruzan Open One Design Regatta, BVI. Royal BVI Yacht Club (RBVIYC), Guy Eldridge Memorial Race/Cruise, Fund Barbecue, Carriacou. Carriacou Children’s Education Fund Charity Auction, Carriacou. Carriacou Children’s Education Cudjoe Head Celebrations, Montserrat. Lucia. SLYC, www.stluciayachtclub.com Emancipation Day Regatta, St. JULY If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar, Sloop Shootout, BVI Governor vs. Premier Island Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis (Culturama) Public holiday in the BVI (Festival Wednesday) Public holiday in Anguilla (Constitution Day) places (Emancipation Day) and Jamaica Public holiday in many Marigot Bay Race, St. Lucia. St. Lucia Yacht Club (SLYC), Bequia Fishermen’s Day Competition. www.bequiatourism.com Bird Sr. Day) Public holiday in Antigua & Barbuda (Vere Cornwall Day) Public holiday in the Cayman Islands (Constitution 27 28 31 2 2 3 Monday and Tuesday) and the BVI (Festival 5 8 8 – 9 13 15 24 25 AUGUST 1 1 – 2 Day). Kadooment Day celebration in Barbados (Independence 6 www.stluciayachtclub.com 6 – 7 8 – 17 9 9 – 17 [email protected] 10 10 www.dive-friends-bonaire.com/clean_up_dives 14 15 16 16 – 1 Aug www.beyc.com/index.php/bvi-billfish-tournament.html (SCYC), www.stcroixyc.com St. Croix Yacht Club 17 – 24 www.visitmontserrat.com/Calabash_Festival 22 – 6 Aug 8 – 10 17 – 20 23 www.rbviyc.org 24 – 1 Aug 27 [email protected] 28 – 1 Aug 29 [email protected] 30 31 31 – 7 Aug 1 1 - 3 [email protected] 4 and the BVI (Territory Day) 4 – 5

JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES • FILLERSSTAINLESSFASTENERSADHESIVES MARINE SERVICE Quality Services&theBest Prices • SPRAYPAINTSROLLERSBRUSHESTOOLS Incl. Pilots,Rigging Chandlery, Charts, • CLEANING SUPPLIES • TEL +351292391616FAX +351292391656 EMAIL: [email protected] BEQUIA VENTURE CO. LTD YACHT SERVICES Primer, Epoxy, Top Coat, Primer, Epoxy,TopCoat,

FUEL ICE WATER MID ATLANTIC St. Vincent & the Grenadines for St. Vincent&theGrenadinesfor Providing all vital services to Providing allvitalservices Email: [email protected] Tel: 7844583319•Fax:3000 www.midatlanticyachtservices.com Antifouling, Thinners PHONE: 1(784)5328006 EU-VAT (16%)importation Duty free fuel(+10.000lt) Duty free Caribbean CompassMarketPlace KINGFISHER Trans-Atlantic Yachts! PORT ELIZABETH,BEQUIA intheCaribbean appointed agents in appointed agentsin [email protected] •MOORINGS • GARBAGE DISPOSAL • WATER

FUEL • • NAILS • HOSE CLAMPS • CLAMPS HOSE • NAILS • KERRY’S MARINE SERVICES KERRY’S MARINESERVICES CARRIACOU REALESTATE McCOY ST,KINGSTOWN,ST.VINCENT M Property ManagementonCarriacou Jeff Fisher–Grenada(473)537-6355 LULLEY‘S TACKLEL SHOP E-mail: [email protected] Tel: (473)4438187Fax:8290 [email protected] and bluewatercruising. harsh environmentofthechartertrade well-built sailsthatarewellsuitedtothe for acompetitivequoteonruggedand Check outourwebsiteorcontactusdirectly SNORKELING &SCUBADIVINGGEAR SNO c ULL TEL: (784)458-3420/485-6255T e-mail: [email protected] COY ST,KINGSTOWN,ST.VINCENT EL: We alsohandleVilla Rentals& MARKET PLACEAD or contactCarolyn Alexanderat For fulldetailsseeourwebsite: Carriacou RealEstateLtd FRONT ST,BEQUIAISLANDFR RKELIN E-mail: lulle E-mail: [email protected] www.neilprydesails.com THIS COULDBE Tel: (784) 530-8123/570-7612 Tel: (784)530-8123/570-7612 ( Land andhousesforsale # 1CHOICEINFISHING& 784 E O YOUR Y‘ FAX: (784)458-3797 FAX: Y‘ NT www.carriacou.net C ) Grenada NEILPRYDE Sails 458-3420 UNION ISLAND UN H S VHF68“KMS” Mooringsavailable • Refrigeration • Welding/Electrical • Diesel/Outboardrepair Mechanical Service G & S O

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D EA R continuedonnextpage Zac artimer-LeMarin,MartiniqueFWI Tel: +(596)596650524Fax:053 tel: (473)[email protected] • wooden-warehammocks+moreuniquegifts [email protected] Port dePlaisance-NouvelleExtension - LeMarin Tel: +596666788 S.I.M.S. Boatyard,True Blue,Grenada stainless steelandaluminiumitems. TechNick Ltd. welding. Fabricationandrepairof Installation /Repair &Sundaymorning Engineering, fabricationand • rareexoticarts+crafts young streetst.george's Tel: (473)536-1560/435-7887 Nick Williams, Manager for yourboat,home+friends [email protected] [email protected] just stepsfromthecarenage Marine Electrics Mon-Sat8.30am5.00pm OUTDOOR CLOTHING Watermakers & SNORKELGEAR

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(range limited by the hills) Specialising in chilled, Specialising in chilled,

frozen & canned foods frozen PORT OF ENTRY HAPPY HOUR 5-6 TOURS ARRANGED MOORING FACILITIES E-mail: [email protected] YOUR BAR AND RESTAURANT WATER, ICE, SHOWERS THIS COULD BE CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED Experience our friendly service as always! CARIBEE BATIK - BOUTIQUE Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Provisioning for Yacht Charters, large or small orders large or small orders Charters, Yacht for Provisioning MARKET PLACE AD We are situated in Calliaqua, St. Vincent 456 2987 St. situated in Calliaqua, are We for Restaurants, Hotels, Villas or simply to enjoy at home. to enjoy Villas or simply Hotels, Restaurants, for Call us on VHF for our delivery service to your yacht Call us on VHF Ch 16 & 68 ANCHORAGE Great selection of Cold Meats, Salami, Turkey, Prosciutto, Prosciutto, Turkey, Salami, selection of Cold Meats, Great etc. Juices Cream, Cheese, Lamb, Fish, Salmon, & fresh smoked Prawns, Shrimp, Seafood, day. every freshly Baguettes baked Steaks, on made to order our popular Baguette Sandwiches Enjoy our Smoothies! Try or takeaway. or off the premises [email protected] WALLILABOU WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL WALLILABOU continued on next page

R I L S P E H C H A N D R A BBAR

T N A R U A Call KENNY T (758) 584- 0291 Furlex & Profurl S rigging, splicing, Agents for Doyle, cockpit cushions, E awnings, new sails, Tel: (758) 452-8648 or Sail repairs, biminis,

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CIRExpress CIRExpress COURIER SERVICES St. Maarten/ St. Martin, collect Martin, Maarten/ St. St. E Y T

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REMEMBER Compass ! JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 Tel (758)4528531 E-mail [email protected] 2009HUNTER45DS239.000US 1986OYSTER435135.000GBP 1987IRWIN44MKII119.500US 2001BAVARIA40/388.500US 1999BAVARIA38/355.000US 1997OCEANIS36CC61.000US 1982CATALINA3217.000US www.crackajacksailing.com Tel (868)739-6449 BOATS FORSALEINTRINIDAD com/belize location-catamaran-antilles. Lying MartiniqueDétailswww. BELIZE 43,2005 [email protected] row. USD189,999E-mail for youtostartcruisingtomor- located inTrinidad.Ready out theCaribbeanandnow maintained. Sailedthrough- pit, singleowner,lovingly CRUISER 46’ PETERSONPERFORMANCE (596) 696907429 Email [email protected]: OFFER!! LyingStLucia. US$179,000 orMAKEUSAN www.freewebs.com/venus46forsale Generator &more.Fullspecsat Air-Con, SolarPanels,Wind Pilot, EPIRB,SSB,WaterMaker, cruiser. GPS,RADAR,VHF,Auto 2007, excellentliveaboardand fiberglass, vgc,newengine YOUNG SUN46ftVENUS1984KETCH DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO G DETSR OAIN G AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATIONPG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER arao eat Cricu 13 36 Carriacou 31 MP 45 CIRExpress St. St.Lucia St.Maarten MP 38 Chateau MygoRestaurant 29 Trinidad Carriacou Regatta MP Guadeloupe Caribbean PropellersLtd. 7 41 Trinidad C/W Caribbean MarineElectrical Martinique Trinidad Caribbean MarineAssoc. Martinique 35 Maarten Carib Power 2 Tortola Caraibe Yachts MP Caraibe Greement SintMaarten 5 Caraibe Greement MP Capital Signal US BVI YachtSales MP Bequia Trinidad MP Business DevelopmentCo. Budget Marine Blue WaterSailing 24 Antigua 26 PetiteMartinique Blanchards Trinidad Bequia Venture St.Vincent Barrow Sails&Canvas Barefoot YachtCharters B &CFuelDock Art &Design Akwaba Martinique MP BOATS FORSALE www.caribbeancompass.com 1988 Centercock- Customs Services , 175,000Euros. t ui 39 St. Lucia [email protected] sell, askingUS$26KE-mail outboard. Sailaway.Must dinghy with2HPHonda Kiss windgenerator,Caribe condition, lyinginBarbados. 1996 HUNTER29.5 [email protected] Tel (784)457-4477E-mail Excellent Condition BOWEN 28FT/DIVEBOAT42FT [email protected] Grenada. £30,000.E-mail with manyextras.Lying pit sloop.Readytocruise Cruising yacht,centercock- 42' TYLERSLIPPER1979 Craig’s List Craig’s ListorCaribbean 0447 SeeVirginIslands St ThomasTel:(340)513- ready tosail$28,000,lying EDEL 33CATAMARAN1985, saw theiradin to tellouradvertisersyou ☛

REMEMBER Compass! oe aiie t ri 31 MP 25 MP St.Croix 48 Bequia St.Lucia 9 Grenada 27 SintMaarten Kerry’s MarineServices 8 MP Jones Maritime UK37/39 Trinidad MP Johnson Hardware Island WaterWorld Bequia MP 37 Grenada Island Dreams Bequia St.Lucia Iolaire Enterprises 14 Integra Coatings Grenada Trinidad Grenadines Sails 35 Grenada Marine Gourmet Foods C/W Golden Taste Gittens Engines 4 Free CruisingGuides C/W 39 29 8 Food Fair MP Electropics Trinidad International Edward WilliamInsurance MP Tortola Curaçao Martinique Trinidad Echo Marine-JotunSpecial Doyle's Guides MP Carriacou Doyle OffshoreSails Down IslandRealEstate Curaçao Marine Clippers Ship , good

RM 1200,2004CUTTER Tel: (246)271-2129 US$185,000. LyingBarbados. New 15KVAgenerator. 2 xG.M.6V92550HPeach. washing machineanddryer. fortably, largefridge/freezer, and cruising.Sleeps6/8com- Excellent condition,stillfishing Tel: (868)726-7567 [email protected] lying TrinidadE-mailmike. and dinghy.$60,000OBO Raymarine kit,newoutboard Yanmar 44,a/c,genset,full large aftcabin,twoheads, strong, fastcruiser,6berth, COCKPIT 1988 ENDEAVOUR 38CENTRE [email protected] Tel: 473-416-0067E-mail tains chair.EC$60,000 anchor, chainandrope,cap- fire extinguisher,WestMarine switch panel,15lifejackets, gps, vhfradio,electronic stroke,100 gls.fuelcapacity. Yamaha 115hp,Enduro2 beam: 8ft,draft:2’,2x2000, fiberglass roof,loa:32feet, Fiberglass, aluminiumt-top& BOWEN MARINEPIROGUE, [email protected] compass NKE.Ð155,000E-mail: hydraulic autopilotwithgyro- els, touringandwindgenerator, tour, alltoys,radars,solarpan- Lombard, readyforaworld Epoxy/kevlar, Frencharchitect 48 FT.VIKINGSPORTSFISHER1985 ADVERTISERS INDEX Fully equipped, Fullyequipped, CLASSIFIEDS CP/

[email protected] Caribbean.US$108,000 E-mail: anywhere southern and readytocruise,delivery aluminum. Fullyequipped 1989. Professionallybuiltin 39’ LAVRANOS Tel: (590)690-626258 E-mail [email protected] condition. SaintMartinÐ37,000 Suzuki 4-strokeOB’s,good KIWI 27FTCATAMARAN [email protected] Tel: (784)457-3962E-mail six, 2ensuitecabins.US$87,000 Autohelm, Windgen,sleeps 2002, newmain2005, er, 75hp.Forddieselnew tre cockpitbluewatercruis- cutter sloop.Substantialcen- YOUNG SUN43FT E-mail [email protected] ing andfishing.BDS$129,000. gps, flybridge.Setupfordiv- diesels. radar,fishfinder,dual er. Twin170Yanmarturbo 32 FT.LUHRS Exodus BoatCharters check usoutonFacebook, For moreinfoandpicturesplease [email protected] Tel: (758)485-3966,E-mail: 300hp enginesUS$68,750 Sportsfishing e evcs atnqe MP 44 Martinique MP MP 16 CW 12 St.Lucia Trinidad MP SeaSense C/W Sea Services 47 Aruba 17 Sea HawkPaints 38 Tortola Rodney BaySails Bequia MP Renaissance Marina Global Power Boats 41 22 10 Trinidad Porthole Restaurant Grenada Perkins Engines Peake YachtServices 31 Tortola Off ShoreRiskManagement Global C/W Ocean Watch MP MP 27 MP Neil PrydeSails 36 DominicanRep. Grenada Nature Conservancy Multihull Company Azores St.Lucia Mid AtlanticYachtServices Trinidad Bequia McIntyre Bros.Ltd MP Marina Zar-Par International MP Marigot BeachClub Marc OneMarine Lulley's Tackle Lesson PlansAhoy Bequia Kingfisher MarineServices 29FT BLACKFIN Opensportfish- Boat, 2xMercury Boat, 2xMercury Fastcruiser Masthead Masthead

2X140 2X140 [email protected] 0586/495-1849 E-mail tenance. Tel:(284)542- communications andmain- sales, inventory,language, folk, withskillsinmarketing, minded, positive,mature We arelookingforartistic to helpmanagestudio. ing foralive-aboardcouple ARAGORNS STUDIO TRELLIS BAY,TORTOLA, Wind Vanebestoffer - bestoffer,AriesCircumnavigator Westerbeke 12,5KW-needsrepair working conditionbestoffer, Yanmar 3HM35Fcompletein Barient, LewmarfromUS250, from US200,Winches,Barlow, Sail boatprops3blade13"to22" Tohatsu 30HPlongshaftbestoffer [email protected] (473) 459-6496E-mail: Griffith, IslandWindjammers, Asking US$1800.Tel:Scott ed inSt.George's,Grenada. new neverinstalled.Itemislocat- range, Defender401798,brand 4 BURNERFORCE10 Tel: (340)244-8170 E-mail [email protected] $40k inFt.Lauderdale,$80knew double motor24V300W.Asking lbs,Year 2006,armlength425cm, capacity of1000Kg/2200 BESENZONI DAVITG322 bean.com/specials.htm DEALS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL SAILS ANDCANVAS Tel (758)4528531 [email protected] email: [email protected] MISC. FORSALE athttp://doylecarib- accompanying classifiedsareUS$10. CLASSIFIEDS Pre-paid bythe15thofmonth. WANTED US 50¢PERWORD Include name,address and numbersincount. Line drawings/photos islook- propane propane E-mail E-mail aauMrn Vnzea 40 Venezuela MP 38 40 Trinidad YES Martinique Grenada MP Xanadu Marine MP WIND Martinique St.Barth Wild LifeExpeditions Martinique St.Vincent West PalmHotel 9 West IndiesRegatta 6 Wallilabou Anchorage MP 15 34 Voiles Assistance 26 MP St.Vincent MP MP VirginGorda Grenada Virgin GordaYachtHarbour St.Vincent Villamar GourmetFoods Carriacou Venezuela Venezuelean MarineSupply Grenada 14 Tyrrel BayYachtHaulout Turbulence Sails PuertoRico Transcaraibes St. Tikal Arts&Crafts 41 Technick Grenada SVG Air St.Thomas Sunbay Marina St. ThomasYachtSales Martin MP MP Lifting Lifting CW =Caribbean-wide MP =MarketPlacepages42to45

email: [email protected] term rates.Tel:(784)4951177 minimum, excellentlong- Internet, cableTV.2weeks stunning view,coolbreeze. Big verandahandpatio, or 1bedstudioapartment. Large 2bedroomhouseand/ LA POMPE,BEQUIA www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay. views overlookingSouthern multi-acre tracts.Great CARRIACOU LAND, [email protected] incumbent. MoreinfoE-mail to retireandseeksnew manager/shareholder wishes and localyachts.Current fessional servicetoforeign equipped toprovideapro- Chaguaramas, Trinidadisfully boating centreof rigging companyinthebusy Established in2000,thisyacht YACHT RIGGINGCOMPANY [email protected] 596 748832E-maildidier-et- Price 120000EurosTel:(596) machines (lessthan4years) Martinique. Newsewing Dockyard, LeMarin, 2002 locatedCarenantilles 100m2, establishedsince SAIL-LOFT, UPHOLSTERY Tel (758)452-0147/720-8432 night, allamenities. Marina, St.Lucia.US$30.00per Overlooking RodneyBay RODNEY BAY,2BEDROOMAPT PROPERTY FORSALE BUSINESS FORSALE RENTALS Lots and

JULY 2011 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 W

Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago