Guadeloupedos 2018 - 2019 Www Guadeloupe Best Of

best of guadeloupeDos 2018 - 2019 www guadeloupe best of . petitfute

. uk English edition

2019 2018

PUBLISHING Collection Directors and authors: Dominique AUZIAS and Jean‑Paul LABOURDETTE Welcome to Authors: Nelly DEFLISQUESTE, SIMAX CONSULTANT-Christine MOREL, Patricia BUSSY, Johann CHABERT, Juliana HACK, Guadeloupe! Faubert BOLIVAR, Yaissa ARNAUD BOLIVAR, Jean‑Paul LABOURDETTE, Dominique AUZIAS and alter Publishing director: Stephan SZEREMETA Of all the "Lesser Antilles", the Guadeloupean Publishing team (France): Elisabeth COL, archipelago is the most surprising when it comes Silvia FOLIGNO, Tony DE SOUSA, Agnès VIZY to the variety of landscapes. A seaside destination Publishing team (World): Caroline MICHELOT, par excellence, Grande-Terre, with its crystal-clear Morgane VESLIN, Pierre-Yves SOUCHET, Jimmy POSTOLLEC, Elvane SAHIN water beaches and blue lagoons, delights lovers of sunbathing. In the coral funds, diving spots are STUDIO multiple, and even beginners, with mask and snorkel, Studio Manager: Sophie LECHERTIER assisted by Romain AUDREN can enjoy the underwater spectacle. But Mother Layout: Julie BORDES, Sandrine MECKING, Nature reserves many other surprises. Large and Delphine PAGANO and Laurie PILLOIS small wild coves for adventurers, lush tropical forest, Pictures and mapping management: vertiginous waterfalls, rivers with refreshing waters, Anne DIOT and Jordan EL OUARDI volcanic land, high limestone plateaus, steep cliffs, WEB fragile and mysterious mangrove… A biodiversity Web Director: Louis GENEAU de LAMARLIERE promising unique sensations. The future of ecotourism Web management and Development: Cédric MAILLOUX, Nicolas DE GUENIN, in Guadeloupe lies in its preserved natural territory Nicolas VAPPEREAU, Adeline CAUX located mainly on Basse Terre, a true attraction WEB Integrator: Mickael LATTES for hikers and nature lovers! The authentic face of Webdesigner: Caroline LAFFAITEUR Guadeloupe can be discovered in museums, but also Community Manager: Cyprien DE CANSON and Andrei UNGUREANU by going further into the inland, stopping in the quiet villages or in the Grands Fonds, to meet its people. NATIONAL PUBLICITY We can also experience a moment in one of the small Publicity director: Caroline CHOLLET Local publicity management: Michel GRANSEIGNE active cities, animated by a mosaic of cultures, with a Customer relations management: lively Creolian spirit. As for the pleasure of eating well, Vimla MEETTOO and Sandra RUFFIEUX you will be able to taste local products, or products Heads of National Publicity: Caroline AUBRY, reinventing French cuisine, and you will discover François BRIANCON‑MARJOLLET, Perrine DE CARNE MARCEIN and Caroline PREAU just how convivial it gets over a t-punch and acras Customer manager: Déborah Loichot in the Caribbean! To discover the archipelago, there INTERNATIONAL PUBLICITY is nothing like a boat. Les Saintes, Marie-Galante, Heads of Publicity: Jean‑Marc FARAGUET, and La Désirade are just a few hundred miles away Guillaume LABOUREUR assisted by Michèle MAYER but they do not look alike. According to the one you Publicity Best of Guadeloupe: Gilles MOREL choose, you will discover an authentic atmosphere CIRCULATION AND PROMOTION that will make you wish for one thing: coming back Sales promotion Director: Bénédicte MOULET to discover even more! assisted by Aissatou DIOP et Vianney LAVERNE The editorial team Sales Manager: Jean-Pierre GHEZ assisted by Nelly BRION wwTHANKS. Thanks to the various tourist offices that Press and sponsor partnership management: cooperate each year to provide the best information. Jean‑Mary MARCHAL We also thank all readers who participate in the ADMINISTRATION writing of this guide by expressing their comments, Chairman: Jean-Paul LABOURDETTE or by bringing us to discover new places that might Human Resources Director: Dina BOURDEAU assisted by Sandra MORAIS et Eva BAELEN have escaped our attention. Administrative and financial Director: Valérie DECOTTIGNIES Accounting: Jeannine DEMIRDJIAN, Christelle MANEBARD, Adrien PRIGENT Collection: Fabien BONNAN assisted by Sandra BRIJLALL and Belinda MILLE Information and Technology Manager: PRINTED IN FRANCE Briac LE GOURRIEREC Siwtchboard: Jehanne AOUMEUR n PETIT FUTE BEST OF GUADELOUPE n It is published by Les Nouvelles Editions de l’Université 18, rue des Volontaires - 75015 Paris. & 01 53 69 70 00 - Fax 01 42 73 15 24 Internet: www.petitfute.com SAS with share capital of 1 000 000 € - RC PARIS B 309 769 966 Cover: © cdwheatley Printing: GROUPE CORLET IMPRIMEUR - 14110 Condé-sur-Noireau Legal deposit: 01/04/2018 ISBN: 9791033178453 To email us, type the surname (lowercase) followed by @petitfute.com Write to the editor: [email protected] Table of contents

AN INVITATION GRANDE-TERRE  TO TRAVEL  The West...... 48 Guadeloupe’s assets...... 6 Pointe-à-Pitre...... 48 Technical data sheet...... 7 Transport...... 48 Stay ideas...... 9 Moving around...... 51 How to go?...... 13 Practical...... 51 Going out...... 52 Going on a package tour...... 13 Sightseeing...... 52 Travelling alone...... 13 Shopping...... 54 Staying...... 16 Morne-à-l’Eau...... 55 Districts...... 55 DISCOVERING Sightseeing...... 55 The South...... 56 GUADELOUPE  Le Gosier...... 56 Guadeloupe in 25 keywords...... 22 History...... 56 Survey of Guadeloupe...... 26 The city today...... 56 History...... 29 Touristic areas – Orientation...... 56 Politics and economy...... 36 Moving around...... 57 Politics...... 36 Practical...... 58 Economy...... 36 Sleeping...... 59 Population and languages...... 39 Knife & fork...... 61 Arts and culture...... 40 Going out...... 63 Guadeloupean cuisine...... 43 Sightseeing...... 64 Games, leisure and sports...... 46 Sports – Relaxation – Leisure...... 65 © VINCENT FORMICA VINCENT ©

Beach of Sainte-Anne. Table of contents

Sainte-Anne...... 66 Saint-François...... 71 The East...... 84 Le Moule...... 84 The North...... 88 DELFORGE CHRISTELLE © Petit-Canal...... 88 Port-Louis...... 88 Anse-Bertrand...... 90 BASSE-TERRE 

The East...... 92 Lighthouse of Anse à la Barque, Baie-Mahault...... 92 in Bouillante. Petit Bourg...... 94 Capesterre-Belle-Eau...... 96 LES SAINTES  The South...... 98 Les Saintes...... 126 Trois-Rivières...... 98 Terre-de-Haut...... 126 Vieux-Fort...... 100 Terre-de-Bas...... 129 Gourbeyre...... 100 Saint-Claude...... 100 La Soufrière...... 103 LA DÉSIRADE  Matouba...... 103 LA DÉSIRADE...... 132 Basse-Terre...... 104 La Désirade...... 132 the Leeward coast...... 106 Petite-Terre...... 134 Baillif...... 106 Vieux-Habitants...... 107 Bouillante...... 109 DOMINICA  Route de la traversée...... 113 Discovering Dominica...... 136 Pointe-Noire...... 114 Mabrika!...... 136 Deshaies...... 116 Dominica’s assets...... 138 The North...... 118 Technical data sheet...... 138 Sainte-Rose...... 118 Visit Dominica...... 141 le Lamentin...... 118 The West...... 141 Roseau...... 141 Salisbury...... 142 MARIE-GALANTE  Morne Diablotins National Park...... 142 Marie-Galante...... 120 The North...... 143 Grand-Bourg...... 120 Cabrits National Park...... 143 Capesterre...... 123 The East...... 143 Saint-Louis...... 124 Delices...... 143

FIND the Best visits interesting excellent unmissable Unforgettable 4 Pointe de la Grande Vigie Porte de l’Enfer Main Road lagoon 500 Road Trou GUADELOUPE Madame Coco Main City Anse-Bertrand ) 400 e City 300 Airport Altitud (Meters Pointe d’Antigues 200 Beach 100 Points of interest Port-Louis Voie ferrée du Pays de la Canne Distillery GUADELOUPE NATIONAL PARK Les Mangles Islet of Kohouanne Petit-Canal Pointe Allègre Pointe du GRAND CUL-DE-SAC MARIN Grand Abaque Pte Macou Can al Fajou des Rot s Grande Duzer Islet Vieux-Bourg our Le Moule Anse Sainte-Rose Porte d’Enfer LA DÉSIRADE Pointe du Reimonenq Morne-à-l’Eau Gros-Morne Ecomusée Distillery Pointe de la Damoiseau Grande Rivière Distillery Maison Zévallos Deshaies Musée du Rhum Goyaves Maison Coloniale re à iè Beauséjour v GRANDE-TERRE Deshaies Sofaïa i Anse à R Pointe Colibris botanical garden la Gourde

Domaine de de n beach Séverin a Les Abymes Pointe des Châteaux Distillery r G Lamentin St-François Baie-Mahault POINTE-À-PITRE Le Helleux Golf de St-François Pointe-Noire Ste-Anne Pointe des 768 m. Raisins Clairs Colibris Maison Marina Petit beach du Cacao Bas du Fort Gosier Pointe de Havre Ste-Anne la Verdure La Caravelle beach Terre-de-Haut Zoological and beach botanical park Ro Petit-Bourg Terre-de-Bas Pigeon Islet ute de la Traversée PETIT CUL-DE-SAC (Guadeloupe N.P.) Domaine de Islet of St Félix Valombreuse MARIN Gosier beach Les Mamelles Saut de Petite Terre Islands Malendure Cascade la Lézarde aux Ecrevisses Montebello beach Distillery Pigeon THE LESSER ANTILLES Pointe à Lézard Goyave ATL ANTIC OCEAN Bouillante BASSE-TERRE Anguilla Pointe de la Rivière St-Martin GUADELOUPE à Goyave NATIONAL PARK St-Barthélemy Barbuda er La Grivelière v i 1298 m. Saba R St-Kitts (Maison du café) Ste-Marie

t n Marigot a Longueteu Antigua t i Nevis b Distillery a Montserrat H - Morne du Col Musée du Café x u 1263 m. Vieux- Vie La Soufrière Capesterre- GUADELOUPE Habitants 1467 m. Belle-Eau Marie-Galante Les Saintes St-Claude Bologne Dominique Baillif Distillery St-Louis MARIE-GALANTE Bananier Basse-Terre Gourbeyre MARTINIQUE Bellevue Caraïbes Poisson Distillery Mountains Trois-Rivières Distillery Bielle Fort Exotic garden Distillery St-Lucie Archeological and Napoléon botanical park of Fort Joséphine Barbade Engraved Rocks Roches Percées Vieux-Fort Pointe à Launay Cabris Islet Grand Souffleur Capesterre-de- St-Vincent Grand-Bourg Marie-Galante Terre- Bequia de-Bas Terre- de-Haut Canouan Moustique Cariacou Union Pointe des Colibris Ronde Grenade 0 km 3,75 7,511,25 15 km LES SAINTES 5 Pointe de la Grande Vigie Porte de l’Enfer Main Road lagoon 500 Road Trou GUADELOUPE Madame Coco Main City Anse-Bertrand ) 400 e City 300 Airport Altitud (Meters Pointe d’Antigues 200 Beach 100 Points of interest Port-Louis Voie ferrée du Pays de la Canne Distillery GUADELOUPE NATIONAL PARK Les Mangles Islet of Kohouanne Petit-Canal Pointe Allègre Pointe du GRAND CUL-DE-SAC MARIN Grand Abaque Pte Macou Can al Fajou des Rot s Grande Duzer Islet Vieux-Bourg our Le Moule Anse Sainte-Rose Porte d’Enfer LA DÉSIRADE Pointe du Reimonenq Morne-à-l’Eau Gros-Morne Ecomusée Distillery Pointe de la Damoiseau Grande Rivière Distillery Maison Zévallos Deshaies Musée du Rhum Goyaves Maison Coloniale re à iè Beauséjour v GRANDE-TERRE Deshaies Sofaïa i Anse à R Pointe Colibris botanical garden la Gourde

Domaine de de n beach Séverin a Les Abymes Pointe des Châteaux Distillery r G Lamentin St-François Baie-Mahault POINTE-À-PITRE Le Helleux Golf de St-François Pointe-Noire Ste-Anne Pointe des Guadeloupe 768 m. Raisins Clairs Colibris Maison Marina Petit beach du Cacao Bas du Fort Gosier Pointe de Havre Ste-Anne la Verdure La Caravelle beach Terre-de-Haut Zoological and beach botanical park Ro Petit-Bourg Terre-de-Bas Pigeon Islet ute de la Traversée PETIT CUL-DE-SAC (Guadeloupe N.P.) Domaine de Islet of St Félix Valombreuse MARIN Gosier beach Les Mamelles Saut de Petite Terre Islands Malendure Cascade la Lézarde aux Ecrevisses Montebello beach Distillery Pigeon THE LESSER ANTILLES Pointe à Lézard Goyave ATL ANTIC OCEAN Bouillante BASSE-TERRE Anguilla Pointe de la Rivière St-Martin GUADELOUPE à Goyave NATIONAL PARK St-Barthélemy Barbuda er La Grivelière v i 1298 m. Saba R St-Kitts (Maison du café) Ste-Marie s

start! Indeed, the wealth of the Guadeloupean A safe destination seabed invites you to discover the Grand Bleu. You will not be frightened of animals here: no It is very easy to practice diving here, with sharks along the coasts, no snake or giant spider. mask and snorkel, bottles, apnea for the most Of course, centipedes (causing a painful sting) experienced or with an adjustable helmet, have to be avoided. At sea, be careful because especially in the nature reserve of Bouillante. the lionfish, with venomous spines, has been You can also rent all kinds of boats, sailing unfortunately present in the Caribbean for some with or without a team-mate, go on a cruise years now. Its venom remains active even after around the archipelago… Sportsmen will its death. In terms of health, you benefit from the French system. Remember to bring your carte vitale. enjoy wholesale fishing, windsurfing, surfing, jet-skiing, kitesurfing. Open-air leisure (flying by plane, paragliding, helicopter, ULM…) is also A destination "open" all year round an original way to discover the archipelago from It is customary to say that there are two another angle and to offer some new sensations. annual tourist seasons: high season, from Also discover the world of traditional agriculture, November to April and low season from May with sugar cane plantations, banana plantations, to October. But it is a sunny destination all year bonifieries (coffee factories), cacaotières… Let round, especially when it is cold in Europe! Of us end up with an Ecomuseum and Heritage course, there is the hurricane season (from June itinerary, which crosses the route of the rum to the end of November), when high depressions distilleries, colonial houses and Creole villas. and sometimes memorable cyclones can retain travellers. But these phenomena are constantly being monitored and anticipated before they An eco-tourism in full boom arrive. No doubt because of these climatic Leading economic sector of Guadeloupe, in variations, the season is much calmer in terms recent years, tourism is characterized by a of tourist attendance. However, if you stay on real search for balance and greater diversity. the islands during winter, the archipelago will In addition to the economy generated by seduce you anyway. seaside resorts more generally on the Grande- Terre, alternative accommodation systems have emerged in recent decades to develop Sun, beaches and farniente considerably; ecotourism is now booming. It is warm all year long, although heavy rains The establishments focus on sustainable can fall in addition to the winter. You can choose development and turn to solar power sources, between white, golden or grey sand if you are on the preservation of water resources and a volcanic beach. It’s perfectly possible to "take constructions made with ecological materials. it easy" in Sainte-Anne or prefer aqua-hiking in This diversification of supply is beneficial for tropical forest rivers, the ascent of the volcano the islands, both for entrepreneurs who invest or big-game fishing! in the green economy and multiply ecotourism initiatives as well as for travellers seeking more An island both distant and close rural and authentic stays. Both Region and French Overseas Department (971), Guadeloupe shares the same currency, The party spirit made in Guadeloupe the same language, and the same level of health The sun-rum-coconut trilogy is well known! and social benefits with continental France. Clichés or basic ingredients for partying? However, the change of scenery is present During your walks and excursions, you will when you arrive on the island for the first time. certainly notice this nice aspect of Guadeloupean This dual Franco-Caribbean identity has created character. The taste of party is not a simple a diversity of faces, cultures, mentalities and formula here. There is always an opportunity a different lifestyle from that of the Hexagon. to have fun, turn on music and learn dance steps. The patron saint fiestas calendar is also A profusion of open-air activities impressive, and there is also the Carnival period, Swimming, sports and water sports, adventures festivals, outdoor zouks… It is obvious that the at sea… Some of the activities revolve around TI-punch (real anti-stress cure) helps maintain the seaside. If you have never dived, it’s time to the atmosphere as well as champagne. Technical data sheet 7 Money Guadeloupe in short Currency The archipelago of Guadeloupe Practical, the same currency as in France is wwArea of the Archipelago: 1,703 km². used here, the euro! wwStatus: DROM (Overseas Department and Banks Region) and European outermost region. Contact your agency or on the Internet for wwPrefecture: Basse-Terre, 11,150 inhabitants. local branches. Payment cards are accepted wwSub-prefecture: Pointe-à-Pitre, everywhere. Beware, "off-site" cheques (issued 15,826 inhabitants. on metropolitan branches) are often refused. wwThe Grande-Terre is 590 km² and houses Take your cheque book with you, because some the Pointe-à-Pitre sub-prefecture and its airport. hikers and traders accept them, which can help if you are short on cash. wwBasse-Terre has 848 km² and is separated from Grande-Terre by a large sea. It hosts the Budget ideas Prefecture and the seats of the Regional Council First of all, you must know that the destination and the County Council. Guadeloupe is much more accessible at certain wwMarie-Galante. With an area of times. For example, from September to mid- 158 km2 and about 60 km from Pointe-à- December and from May to the end of June, it Pitre, it welcomes three communes (Grand- is possible to find a round-trip ticket at less than Bourg, Saint-Louis and Capesterre-Belle-Eau) E400 in economic flight. Conversely, during the and 13,000 inhabitants. year-end periods and school holidays, prices w are high and reach E1,500, still in economic wLes Saintes. The Archipelago of Les Saintes flight. It’s the same for the accommodation and consists of a chain of wild and protected islets car rental prices. and two inhabited islands: Terre-de-Haut (1,800 inhabitants over 6 km2) and Terre-de- wwSmall budget. As a general rule, low-budget Bas (1,100 inhabitants out of 6.8 km2). travellers will find accommodation (youth hostel, wwLa Désirade. 1,649 inhabitants for an area of rentals with local resident, unclassified hotels, 2 studios, bungalows…) for E30 per night 22 km (11 km long for 2 km wide). (excluding low season promotions) throughout wwPetite-Terre (attached to La Désirade). No the island. Independant rental companies or resident in Petite-Terre except the NFB guard some accommodations also offer car rentals at staying in the "lighthouse of the edge of the attractive prices. As for restaurants, you will find world". take away meals, trucks that sell sandwiches, bokits… for less than E10. Finally, many natural Population sites and hikes are available free of charge or at wwPopulation Guadeloupe and archipelago: discounted rates. approximately 402,119 inhabitants (January wwAverage budget. Its is possible to stay in 1,2013). a charming hotel, in seasonal rentals, luxury wwDensity: 248 inhab./km². gites for less than E100 per day for 2 people, wwAverage life expectancy: 77 years old (men) breakfast included in low season. Allow about and 84,1 years old (women). E150 in high season for the same type of services. If you can spend E25 per person and wwOfficial Language: French. per meal, you will be spoilt for choice for your wwSpoken language: Caribbean Creole. lunch and dinner. wwReligions: Catholicism, evangelism, wwBig budget. Guadeloupe, of course, has 4-star adventism, Hinduism. hotels. You can find standard rooms around E200 in low season. For suites with view, allow Economy E from 400 in high season. These establishments wwGDP/inhabitant: E20,163. offer quality services equal to the price. There are also beautiful luxury villas for rent by the week. wwGDP: EUR 8,033 million. Allow from E1,500 to E20,000 depending on wwUnemployment Rate (ILO): 23,7% in the week (yes, the range is wide but the range 2014 and 2015. This is the highest rate of DFA of benefits is also available!). (French departments of America). Technical data sheet

8 56,3% of people under the 25 years old are unemployed. The situation of women is more Climate precarious with a gap of 3,6% compared to men. Guadeloupe enjoys a tropical and oceanic Source: INSEE figures (June 2016). climate, with winds that usually blow from the east to the west (the famous trade winds), and which allow to withstand the heat. The sea Phone temperature (Caribbean side) is on average 27°C and can reach 29°C in summer. Water Numbering temperatures are slightly lower on the Atlantic Fixed numbers begin with 05 90 for Guadeloupe, side. 05 96 for Martinique, 05 94 for Guyana. There are two seasons: wwWest Indies to France. Subscriber number wwWintering (June to December) that (10 digits). corresponds to the hottest period with wwWest Indies to other countries. frequent intense rains and weak trade 00 + country code + subscriber number. winds. The thermometer can climb up to 35°C.From June to October, the weather w Subscriber number wFrance to Guadeloupe. is warmer and wetter: this is the so-called (10 digits). "cyclonic" period. wwTo call Guadeloupe from abroad, from a wwLent (January to May) is the dry and landline, you have to dial the 590 and the number "fresher" season. The temperature ranges from of your correspondent without the initial zero. 22 to 25°C during the day and may fall slightly Mobile telephony below 20°C in the south of Basse-Terre from December to February. Depending on whether Guadeloupe islands are covered by three mobile you live in Grande-Terre or Basse-Terre, you can phone networks (Orange Caribbean, Digicel see that everyone benefits from a micro-climate. and SFR). Metropolitan operators ensure the The Basse-Terre is more humid, because of its continuity of service (subject to optional special reliefs, its tropical forest. travel contract, to be asked before departure in general). Numbers start with 06 90 in wwWeather watch on the archipelago: Guadeloupe, by 06 96 in Martinique, and by www.meteofrance.gp. On this site, you will 06 94 in Guyana. be aware of the detailed weather forecast for each day of the week depending on the area wwSince May 2016, roaming costs no longer exist. This means that your phone operator where you live. You are also aware of ongoing can no longer charge extra costs when you phenomena that might lead to the triggering travel. You can thus call from the Hexagon to of the vigilance procedure by the Prefecture. the overseas (and vice versa) at the normal call tariff. Seasonality There are several tourist seasons: Time difference wwThe high season, from the end of December It is 5 hours earlier in Guadeloupe than in to the end of April, corresponds to the period France during winter time, 6 hours earlier during which airlines, accommodation, car during summer time. In January, when it is rental, etc., have the highest rates with a peak 6pm in Paris, it is 1pm in Guadeloupe; in July, for the New Year period. when it is 6pm in Paris, it is 12pm in Guadeloupe. wwThe low season corresponds to May, June, September, October, November Formalities and early December. At this time, rates Identity card required for French nationals and are the most accessible and almost all Europeans in general. Since January 2014, the establishments offer particularly interesting identity card has been valid for 15 years instead promotions. of 10 for adults. This extension concerns cards issued as of this date but also those issued since wwJuly and August alone are the average January 2004, which are renewed for another season, because even though there are fewer 5 years without any action on your part. For tourists, many locals come to join their family minors, the card is valid for 10 years. A valid for the holidays. Prices are rising again. passport is required for travellers from countries wwThe cyclone season runs from July to the outside Europe. end of November. AN INVITATION TO TRAVEL

- For the Several options for for options Several The crossing road takes you inland, in road serves very beautiful sites: the Day 5: sea getaway. Day 4: the crossing road and the Leeward Day 3: discovery ofthe east ofBasse- w w w w this day: opt for relaxation and sail for the day to Petite-Terre, Marie-Galante or Les Saintes: On the programme, swimming, meals on board and visit of the island for a few hours. Departure at 7:30pm and return to 6pm for a busy day. cascadeaux Écrevisses, the Guadeloupe Zoo, or further in Pointe Noire, the Côte-sous-le-Vent reach you Then cocoa house… the or house Bouillante,truea golden triangle of scuba diving. The Malendure site and its black sand beach housesthe underwater reserve called Réserve Cousteau. offered activities nautical are Many (big-gamefishing, glass bottom boat,classical diving or with helmet, swimming, aquarando…). Its is better to have booked beforehand. return, two routes are possible: take over the route of the Crossing or take the road along the Leeward coast to reach Deshaies, then Sainte- Rose north of Basse-Terre. The panoramic, along the route, is all the more superb at the time of sunset. If you have time, stop at the Deshaies Botanical Garden or at the Sainte-Rose ecomuseum. first inhabitants of the island, the Amerindians. Then, Saint Claude, the only commune of the archipelago that has no coastline, is the starting point for theSoufrière, the island’s highest point. can You go to the Volcano House and relax in the hot baths of Matouba. For those who are interested in climbing the volcano, you must plan half a day can or You a full also day. call on a mountain guide for an exciting tour off the beaten trails. Basse-Terre, capital of the department labeled City of Art and History, is interesting to visit.stopRecommended Fort at Louis-Delgrès, Botanical Garden, at the Bologna distillery. w Coast. large nationalpark where the Guadeloupe’s term lush vegetation makes perfect sense. This and then to the market of Sainte-Anne to taste products. local w Terre,from Petit-Bourg to the town Basse-Terre. of From Petit-Bourg, stop at the Valombreuse garden, the Montebellodistillery ora few kilo metres after, the Longueteau in Capesterre- Belle-Eau. The area is the starting point (Moreau Falls, Carbet if Falls…) the weather permits. In Trois-Rivières, the archaeological park of engraved rocks, remains of the presence of the

next The The tem- travellers: Stay ideas Stay municipality ideal for the seaside September. can You enjoy the

Day 2: The south of Grande-Terre. Day 1: arrivalDay 1: at Pointe-à-Pitre. w w w and the rest of the week in Basse-Terre to limit travel. Anne, Le Gosier or Petit-Bourg. can You also chooseto stay fewa days in Grande-Terre preferably,with an accommodation that allows youto easily visit theisland, eitheron Sainte- For a one-week stay, you will have to make a choice because you have a range of activities at your disposal. This type of circuit is designed, Guadeloupe in a week Short stay stop to the new artisan village of Saint-François Many beaches and panoramic restaurants are on Return your way. by the same roadwith a the easy climbing to the calvary for the overview of the torn coast and the peak planted in the sea. the sea come to shatter, its wild landscape is worth the detour and its panorama on the surrounding breathtaking. islands is Don’t miss ofthe town. As for the pointe des Châteaux, tongue of land where huge frothy waves from with its postcard decoration with crystal clear waters protected by the coral barrier on the beach Sainte-Anne. A pleasures with family, Sainte-Anneis very tourist exposure to the sun from the first Next, day. head south of the Grande-Terre with a view to the pointe des Châteaux in Saint-François via landmarks (nearest beach, shops…) and swim swim and shops…) beach, (nearest landmarks in the swimming pool or the sea. Avoid too long from April to cooler mornings! Start the day with a few is strong. In the West Indies, you get up early and you go to bed early as well. the sun disappears around 6pm from October to March and 7pm day, you areday, awake at dawn. At 6am, the sun is already shining in a blue sky and the brightness providers bring you to their depositproviders their to you location. bring w and transfer you by free shuttle to their premises located in a dedicated area. The other rental able to promote competition by comparing comparing by competition promote to able rates and saving time when you arrive. The national signs offer a welcome at the airport accommodation! A tip foraccommodation! Independent tip A Book your rental car in advance. will be You jet lag. Exhausted by the trip, you only have an idea: pick up your rental car and go to your you leave the air-conditioned airport! After 7 to 8 hours of flight, you will still have to resist 5 or 6 additional hours becauseof the perature difference seizes you as soon as

10 Stay Ideas

Another solution: sea trip in the famous natural southern area, the economic and tourist area, is reserve of the Grand Cul-de-Sac marin, to the Caret subject to traffic jams during peak hours. Relax islet, with a visit to the mangrove, and a diving with calmly. masks and snorkeling in the coral reef with the wwDay 2. You’re going to wake up at dawn, King Papyrus bateau-mouche (from Gosier) or with because of the time lag. Take the time to bath a smaller structure aboard a saintoise, a traditional in the swimming pool or in the sea without too boat. The departures are then from Petit-Canal or much exposure to the sun. Over two weeks, you Port-Louis. The visit of the islands of the archipelago have time to acquire a nice safe suntanning for (La Désirade, Marie-Galante and Les Saintes) can your skin or the tanning in crayfish version. Spot be performed by shuttle from Pointe-à-Pitre for the places to situate the shops, restaurants, Marie-Galante, from Trois-Rivères for Les Saintes or beaches nearby and using a map, visualize from Saint-François depending on your destination your future journey to optimize it. and the shipping company. There is a need to rent wwDay 3. Heading to South Grande-Terre with a car for Marie-Galante. La Désirade can be visited the Pointe des Châteaux in Saint-François. You by car, bike and hiking trails. Les Saintes can be will first pass through Sainte-Anne, renowned for visited on foot, by scooter, bicycle or electric car its beaches with fine sand bordered by coconut (all vehicle traffic is prohibited during the August trees. The municipal beach, with very calm waters, 15 celebrations). is ideal for families because it is protected by a wwDay 6: North of Grande-Terre. Go to coral barrier. You will find many restaurants there Saint-François with a dynamic marina (many and a market every morning on the beach shore. restaurants and shops), a golf course and a pier Then you arrive at Saint-François. Follow the for the islands (Marie-Galante, La Désirade). Then, direction to Pointe des Châteaux. This stretch of take the direction to Le Moule, one of the oldest land is worth a detour for its landscapes and small municipalities of Grande-Terre, with yet modernized coves on your right. The climb to the monumental infrastructure. On the road, several stops possible; cross is a must, where you will have a panoramic the Bellevue distillery, the Edgard-Clerc museum, view of the surrounding islands! There you will the house of Zevallos, which is said to be haunted find plenty of restaurants if you want to lunch on and deserves a stop for its special architecture site. Back to the centre of Saint-François to go (it comes from the Eiffel workshops). Towards to Le Moule. On your right, after the roundabout, Anse-Bertrand, spot of surfers, the pleasant road the statue of Martin Luther King, the house of runs along the bay and allows you to discover the Zévallos, built by Gustave Eiffel and which can magnificent natural sites: the lagoon of the Porte be visited some afternoons (it is better to inquire d’Enfer and the Pointe de la Grande-Vigie. To do by calling in advance). absolutely, a little hike on the trail of the ridges, one You can also stop at the Damoiseau distillery, of the wildest in the Antilles. Descent to Port-Louis, the only distillery in Grande-Terre. Finally, go a small quiet port and then to Petit-Canal from towards North Grande-Terre for Anse-Bertrand. where you leave the seaside to reach Morne-à- It is in this commune where are located Pointe l’Eau. The cemetery, monumental and in the middle de la Grande-Vigie and Porte d’Enfer, the main of the village, impresses. Then, return to Gosier. natural sites of which the famous cliffs stand, imposing and even frightening, hence their name. wwDay 7: prepare the departure! Flights to the metropolis are fixed in the late afternoon or in the wwDay 4. It would be a shame to have a stay in evening. Some accommodation facilities allow Guadeloupe without having a look at the special you to change before the airport by providing a mangrove ecosystem. This trip can take place luggage storage and showers. So, you can take full departing from the Le Gosier marina with the advantage of the activities until the last moments. Bateau Mouche King Papyrus, the port of Vieux If you are not too exhausted, why don’t you enjoy Bourg in Morne-à-Eau or Petit-Canal. Whatever a last sport activity on the beach (sea scooter the means of locomotion (fisherman’s boat, ride, canoe-kayak…) before departure. As for the electric boat, sea mountain bike, kayak), the shopping, for the omissions, the floor of the airport outing is as enriching as relaxing. dedicated to the departures is filled with shops, a As an alternative to the mangrove visit, you pharmacy, a snack… can also dive in North Grande-Terre. The dive spots enjoy a variety of impressive landscapes. The underwater architecture is completely Long stays different from that of the Réserve de Bouillante, especially thanks to caves, arches, ruins, cols, Stay of 2 weeks coral gardens, plane wreckage… wwDay 1. To limit fatigue and especially if your wwDay 5. A day of relaxation towards one of flight arrives late in the evening, choose an the many beaches of South Grande-Terre or accommodation in Grande-Terre because the more sportive if you wish. Water activities (sea Stay Ideas 11 scooter, paddling, towed buoy, flyboard…) are most important in Basse-Terre in the 19th century. available on the beaches of Pointe de la Verdure Next, stop at the Fort Louis Delgrès Museum. de Gosier, Sainte-Anne or Saint-François. For wwDay 11. Hiking at the Soufrière. Same the fans of strong sensations, an aerial flight by precautions as for the Carbet falls. At the top, plane, ULM, helicopter, a free fall jump are other the view is extraordinary. You see all the Lesser ways to discover the archipelago from the sky. Antilles in a single glance. You have a wide view wwDay 6. A day that combines heritage and of Marie-Galante, Les Saintes and La Désirade. shopping with the visit of Pointe-à-Pitre (its With binoculars, it is often possible to distinguish market, shopping streets, museums…). Ask La Dominique and even La Martinique. for information at the tourist office if you want wwDay 12. Heading towards Bouillante via to participate in a commented tour of the city the Route de la Traversée. This transversal that requires prior registration. The heritage departmental road in Basse-Terre (D23) serves AN INVITATION TO TRAVEL department organises fascinating guided tours on some of the most beautiful sites of the national various themes (20th-century architecture, places, park of Guadeloupe and offers many hikes. edge of quays, cemetery, traditional houses…). It steeply and narrowly goes forward in the wwDay 7. Explore one of the archipelago’s middle of lush vegetation. Easy walking tours outbuildings. If La Désirade can possibly visit are managed by the Forest Office. Stop at the in one day, it is advisable to spend at least two Cascade aux Ecrevisses (accessible to people with days in Marie-Galante but also in Les Saintes. Les reduced mobility, at the zoo of Guadeloupe, at the Saintes consist of several islets, only two of them of Maison de la Forêt… Next, Bouillante, the capital them are inhabited; Terre-de-Haut and Terre-de- of the dive, welcomes you between hot springs Bas. Each of these islands has in a very different and breathtaking dive spots. These sites can be atmosphere. Terre-de-Haut is the drop-off point of enjoyed by scuba diving, kayaking, on glass- most tourists. It can be visited by bicycle, scooter, bottom boat, water hike (you walk under water at electric car or on foot. More serene, Terre-de-Bas 4-5 m deep with a full-face helmet). The discovery is recommended for beautiful hikes and for its of cetaceans is a fascinating alternative that must authenticity. As for Marie-Galante, it has managed be booked in advance. to keep her rurality as well as La Désirade. wwDay 13. Last step of this journey, the North wwDay 8. Return to Guadeloupe main island Basse-Terre via Sainte-Rose and Deshaies. if you chose to stay one night on the island of The ideal is to take accommodation in this area to your choice to enjoy a two-day stay. Plan an avoid long journeys. The coast road and beaches accommodation around Capesterre-Belle-Eau are superb. Stop at the Creole Art Ecomuseum or Trois-Rivères, which are close to sites to visit in Sofaïa – Sainte-Rose, conservatory medicinal because the pace of the days will be accelerated. plants, arboretum and museum with several Make sure to prepare for future hikes by being spaces, the musée du Rhum and Domaine de sure of having all the necessary equipment (rain Dios, part of which done by train. In Deshaies, clothing, walking shoes, hat or cap, water, dried don’t miss the Botanical Garden, an exceptional fruit, charged phone…). Inform your host about site, both botanical and animal park on an area your destination. Heavy rains can quickly make the of 7 hectares that belonged to Coluche. route impassable or transform a small river into a wwDay 14. This is the day of return. Enjoy a violent stream, so remain vigilant and cautious. last swim, make your last purchases and plan wwDay 9. The Grand-Carbet river takes its source enough time to arrive at the airport without on the eastern side of the Soufrière. Its sulphur risking being late because there are always waters brighten up after the three falls to 11 km traffic jams at peak hours on the road to go lower in the Atlantic Ocean. Thanks to the aquatic there during the school period. power of these falls, the vegetation, regularly watered by tropical rain, is particularly lush. Thematic stays wwDay 10. Visit of the town of Basse-Terre with Maison de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine. Visits Nautical activities and diving and discoveries around town planning and history, Diving fans, whether beginner or experienced, military and administrative architecture with will be able to explore exceptional seabeds along the buildings of the architect Ali Tur, religious the rocks of the great coves, and by ascending buildings, Cours Nolivos and the urban facilities along the rocky coast. Water sports enthusiasts of the 18th century, the typology of the traditional know that the Caribbean is great for sailing. Creole house, the public and private cemeteries… Far from the seaside resorts of Grande-Terre, Reservations required.Continue your walk to the coasts bordering the sandy beaches of the Bologna distillery, located at the foot of the Basse-Terre and the offshore coral formations volcano. Created around 1665, it was one of the are wonderful marine observation grounds. 12 Stay Ideas

Surrounded by virgin landscapes, Guadeloupe Château, after Saint-François, or to the immense is a world-renowned "diving" destination. cliffs of the North, to the aptly named sites of Fragile corals still shelter aquatic gardens the Porte de l’Enfer or Pointe de la vigie. to preserve. You can also take a boat, then wwBasse-Terre, a paradise for hikers. shut off the engine to anchor near the coral Contrary to what the name might suggest, the reef. Hotels, hotel residences, cottages… all East Wing’s relief is steep, volcanic. Irrigated have partnerships with a diving club, which by wild rivers ending in torrents, waterfalls and usually allows to benefit from a preferential rate. freshwater basins, it offers refreshing bathing In some, a swimming pool initiation is offered as a reward for the small efforts. The ascent of to become familiar with the equipment. Local the Soufrière (1467 m, the archipelago’s peak) is diving clubs, located in seaside villages and essential, as the more demanding steps around towns, as well as independent divers (more or Morne Michot (with stops in its Creole gardens), less qualified), offer baptisms and sea trips. the discovery of the authorized areas of the Along the leeward coastline, there are many Carbet Falls (the jewel of Guadeloupe National panoramas on the Pigeon islets (nicknamed park) or a trip through the exuberant primary the Cousteau Reserve and the High place of forest. The water hikes in the river, in the heart scuba diving), and Bouillante (geothermal city, of the forest, invite the more adventurous to the hot springs) around Montserrat Island or from joys of canyoning between the playful slides on Pointe-Noire. For budding adventurers, take the rocks slides and high jumps in the basins, to fishing boats from Bouillante to the Pigeon Îlets, bivouacs in the rainforest… or those from Sainte-Rose to the Caret islet. w Follow Mask and snorkel are enough to see big fish! wThe most adventurous option. along the entire length of Basse-Terre the If you want to have the chance to see cetaceans, former GR G1, formerly a long-distance hiking you need to go off Deshaies or Anse-Bertrand. trail, decommissioned because too difficult to Hiking maintain. A feasible hike in 7 or 8 steps, well prepared (with or without guide), while having If most tourists prefer the blue of the Caribbean taken care to check the state of the trails and Sea, opt for stays focused on walking, and sites. Hikes are defined in 4 levels (level 1 or 2: spending exciting weeks in the heart of various very easy, family, on well-marked paths with less Guadeloupean landscapes is quite possible, easy passages; then level 3 or 4, means, used while getting into the eastern lands and for hiking with sporting passages to difficult mountains. In Guadeloupe, there are no fewer for experienced hikers). than 200 km of trails and hiking trails called traces. You can also get organized with a good map, and the helpful information of the Tourism Follow and understand committee and local offices. However, it is the "Traces-Mémoires" important to follow the recommendations of Heritage sites linked to the memory of slavery the receptionists before a hike: never go alone, and the colonial period in the Caribbean prevent one third of your journey, bring water mark out the landscape of the archipelago and food, etc.). All these tips are specified and can be a thematic of stay. These circuits on the National Park site (www.guadeloupe- of Guadeloupean history are dedicated parcnational.com). The status of the traces is to make you discover the places of memory regularly updated. Professionals offer escorted connected to this painful past. Historical sites outings for all levels. (the slave steps of Petit-Canal, Fort Delgrès wwMany trails on Basse-Terre and Grande- of Basse-Terre… houses transformed into Terre. The durations of the walks listed varies ecomuseums, agricultural estates, distilleries from 15 minutes walk to a good day. In Grande- abandoned or still in operation. So many Terre, the coastal road and the road of the economic and social testimonies, old and Traversée road houses several ridge paths that contemporary, which are often visited with great offer spectacular views, such as at Pointe du emotion. DOMINICA

- - - RE establish T unmissable place L CEN RA ULTU LL C LD MI E O building is perfect a example of the TH 767 449 +1 1804 up residence the beautiful on up beaches, some of which work with French-speaking staff. For divers, don’t miss the famous site of Rodney’s Rock, north of Mahaut, where you can explore wrecks, and admire purple coral and a wide fish. of variety cultural events, including local amateur theater artistic performances. other and performances But that is not all: young artists, pupils or students from take the also to island come courses in this space dedicated to Dominica’s cultural heritage. Right visit near, the school cultural on depending This division. ment, specializing in wood sculpture, offers handicrafts of great beauty. An forthose who love andare passionate about art modern). and (old Sports – Leisure – Relaxation Sports – Leisure Inthe vicinityof Roseau and on thebeaches of the west coast, several diving clubs have taken can follow the timeline of the island with the recovered objects. It also addresses the volcanic origins of the island. A very nice museum that will delight the big ones, like the small ones! Old Mill Canefield & [email protected] 5 minutes north of the capital, the Old Mill cultural center opens its doors to you… The 18th century architecture in Dominica. Originally, this establishment hosted sugar andrum production andis now hosting exhi bitions of local artists and artisans as well as ofarchives for permanentexhibitions of the museum (furnishings from colonial times, agricultural instruments and musical instru ments, species of fish and birds, indigenous art…) and the latter is now referring to the lives of Dominica. Onthe two floors that make up this building, you will also discover and photographs, of collections fascinating

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M ANCIEN 767 448 +1 01 24 340 3099 +1 514 F TH to circumvent. places sharing… And as in every market in and communicate exchange, the we world, sometimes negotiate. A where tourists landed. It indispensable spot for lovers of living and rich located right behind the Dominica Museum, in front of the sea and not far from the port and of wooden items, t-shirt souvenirs, domi niquain reggae, etc... This large market is O It was formerly the slaves market but today it gaveway to the saleswomen of basket makings Roseau also houses a museum on the history of the island. Sightseeing Rasta colours. Along the streets, you can also admire some old churches, whose founda tionsin large stones date back to 300 On the rest of the island, the houses are made of metal sheets, generally painted in geratedly complicated ornamentation (many shutters,blinds pierced through the walls). a curious mixture of simple and solid structure, designed to resist bad weather, and an exag tely in bad condition. These houses testify the Dominica. TheyFrench influence in Thesmall capital has some colourful creole wooden houses. The majority, not restored since the end of colonialism, are unfortuna ROSEAU has participated extensively in participatedhas extensively during the colonial period. The very famous historian of the island,Lennox Honychurch, in 1810. On twoin 1810. floors, the building with typical colours of Dominica was realized vicinity of the Roseau market, the Dominica Museum is a small orange building built Saturday from 9amSaturday from to 12pm. Located on theseafront andin the immediate & & 9amOpen 4pm to from on weekdays, and Dame Mary Eugenia Charles Blvd

142 Visit Dominica - The West SALISBURY Place The village of Salisbury is located in the center on our of the west coast between the two largest premises cities on the island: Roseau (20 km south) and Portsmouth (25 km north). You will find some accommodation facilities in various categories in the vicinity of Salisbury and diving centers that are directly on the black sand beach. The segment N° 9 of Waitukubuli National Train can be joined through Salisbury. TAMARIND TREE HOTEL & +1 767 449 7395 / +1 767 449 7007 www.tamarindtreedominica.com [email protected] Individual standard winter: US$ 104, double US$ 134, triple US$ 164, family US$ 201. Superior individual winter: US$ 134, double US$ 164, triple US$ 194, family US$ 246. Cheaper rates depending on the duration of the stay. Possible transfers and meals. On the west coast, overlooking Salisbury beach, the hotel offers a splendid view of the Caribbean Sea. A diving club is located below. The 6 superior rooms are air-conditioned. The 9 standard rooms have a fan. The accommodation is simple but comfortable and equipped Discover with a terrace overlooking the sea. No television, with the site is ideal for relaxation. Possibility of family suite (2 communicating rooms). Annette us speaks perfectly English, French and German and helps you to feel at home. The restaurant overlooking the bay is particularly pleasant Hike because you are very nicely welcomed. It is open midday and evening except Tuesday in with low season. On the menu, a snack carte for us lunch (hamburgers, salads and sandwiches), and local and tasty dishes in the evening. Also a pool and spa for guests. Free wifi. Plunge MORNE DIABLOTINS with NATIONAL PARK us In the north-west of the island, near Portsmouth, it surrounds the island’s highest point, the mount of Morne-Diablotins (1,447m). The trail Contact us starts at 579 m above sea level. The more The Tamarind Tree Hotel you approach the summit, the more the view Restaurant - Bungalows of Cabrits, Portsmouth and the surrounding villages is sub-lime. Salisbury/Macoucherie Tél: (+1 767) 449 73 95 Transport Skype: team.tamarind [email protected] How to get there and leave The main ways to reach the park are through www.tamarindtreedominica.com Dublanc, on the coast south of Portsmouth, or through the village of Glavillia.