VIETNAM 9—2016

THE BLIND WRITER Meet MasterChef Winner Christine Ha PAGE 20

RIDE IN STYLE, SAFELY The Ultimate Motorcycle Jacket for Saigon PAGE 28

THE PROOF IS IN THE SAUCE Vietnamese Comfort Food With a View PAGE 60

A SEASIDE ESCAPE The Lesser-Known Side of Vung Tau PAGE 76 THE NEXT GENERATION

ẤN PHẨM CHUYÊN ĐỀ QUẢNG CÁO - MIỄN PHÍ Congratulations to ISHCMC’s Class of 2016!

Congratulations to ISHCMC’s Class of 2016 for setting a new ISHCMC highest average for their IB Diploma and Individual Subject Scores. Furthermore, 28 students were awarded the Bilingual Diploma. 19 nationalities were represented in the Class of 2016, representing ISHCMC’s truly international learning environment.

STUDENTS NATIONALITIES AWARDED CLASS BILINGUAL OF 2016 28 DIPLOMA 19

The International School Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC) is the city’s 1st International Baccalaureate World School for students aged

2 to 18 years old. We are proud to have the longest history of graduating IB Diploma candidates to leading universities worldwide,

including New York University, Seoul National University, University College London and University of Hong Kong this year.

Enrolling IB Students Now +84 (8) 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com Congratulations to ISHCMC’s Class of 2016!

Congratulations to ISHCMC’s Class of 2016 for setting a new ISHCMC highest average for their IB Diploma and Individual Subject Scores. Furthermore, 28 students were awarded the Bilingual Diploma. 19 nationalities were represented in the Class of 2016, representing ISHCMC’s truly international learning environment.

STUDENTS NATIONALITIES AWARDED CLASS BILINGUAL OF 2016 28 DIPLOMA 19

The International School Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC) is the city’s 1st International Baccalaureate World School for students aged

2 to 18 years old. We are proud to have the longest history of graduating IB Diploma candidates to leading universities worldwide, including New York University, Seoul National University, University College London and University of Hong Kong this year.

Enrolling IB Students Now +84 (8) 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com VIETNAM 9—2016

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4 SEPTEMBER 2016

Contents

WINE & DINE RESTAURANT REVIEWS It’s all about Asian cuisines this month as we showcase Korean, Japanese, Vietnamese, NGOC TRAN Chinese and Thai dishes that are surefire palate pleasers 54 BY IMAGE FEATURES P10 DATEBOOK P26 THE CITY OF TOMBS P28 RIDE IN STYLE, SAFELY With these events, you'll never Villagers compete to build Meet the man on a mission to create have to be bored again increasingly lavish and elaborate the ultimate motorcycle jacket tombs for their ancestors P16 TROI OI P32 WHO AM I? Find out why tree trimming, a missing P20 THE BLIND WRITER For the Tonkin 19.45 Collection iPhone 6 and emergency aid stations She's a blind chef, a cookbook Inspiration, it’s about the made it into our list this month author and winner of the third journey of self-discovery season of MasterChef P18 IN CONTROL Singer Tia Hai Chau opens P23 ONCE UPON A TIME up about maturing musically The ancient Vietnamese and her latest single Cinderella story comes to life

6 SEPTEMBER 2016 MEMORABLE HOTEL ROYAL HOI AN

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COVER STORY THE NEXT GENERATION Schooling and parenting the future generation in Vietnam 38 FEATURES COLUMNS P78 A SEASIDE ESCAPE P92 EDUCATION EVALUATION P31 TELL TAIL SIGNS Beyond the oil rigs and tourist A look at Vietnam’s growing How the Internet of Things can traps, there’s another side of options of international schools help take care of our pets Vung Tau worth exploring P94 LEVERAGING LANGUAGES P37 LEGAL EASE P82 UNDERWATER RELAXATION Is translanguaging the answer to 21st Keep calm and find an EXPLORATION century multilingual classrooms? alternative method to settling For a new wave of wellness-seeking legal disputes in Vietnam pleasure, lay back and enjoy P63 CHEERS! P84 DARJEELING In a cluttered wine landscape, A picture tells a thousand words, where so many seem the same, so let these photos of Darjeeling the Kiwis do it differently take you on a journey P96 THE SYLLABUS Social and emotional learning, teaching the heart as well as the brain

8 SEPTEMBER 2016 OI VIETNAM 9 Datebook What's on this month...

SEPTEMBER 7-10 SEPTEMBER 9 What: Heart Beat Presents Marco Shuttle What: International Travel Expo Where: The Observatory (5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4); 9pm (free Where: Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (799 Nguyen before 11pm, VND150,000 after) Van Linh, D7) About: Marco Sartorelli is an Italian artist who produces dark, About: The three-day event is expected to host over 30,000 abstract techno. While it's true that Italian techno is often rich international and local trade buyers, travel professionals and with these qualities, it's been surprising how much range this visitors, including for the first time, popular international loose formula has had. Sartorelli, who comes from the city of bloggers. It’s a prime platform for both local and international Treviso and now lives in London, has always been drawn to companies to collaborate and discuss inbound and outbound overcast shades, although the way this has been applied has tourism. always differed greatly. He started out making club tracks with Among the highlights of the expo is the ACMECS a focus on percussion and groove, but over the years his sound Responsible Tourism Forum on September 7, organized by developed an expansive quality, something best exemplified by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of Vietnam in 2011's The Vox Attitude, a creeping broken-beat number that collaboration with the People's Committee of Ho Chi Minh subtly subverted Ecstasy Passion & Pain's Touch & Go. Marco City. ACMECS refers to the Ayeyawady-Chao Phraya-Mekong will be supported by Chris Wolter and Oko providing a perfect Economic Cooperation Strategy, a political, economic and combination and a similar approach to their mixing with the cultural organization whose members include Cambodia, Laos, dance floor at their feet. Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam. Contact: Visit www.heartbeatsaigon.com for more info Contact: Visit www.itehcmc.com for more info SEP SEPTEMBER 9-17 9 What: The German Film Festival Where: CineStar (271 Nguyen Trai, D1); free About: A selection of eight films will be screened in five cities: Hanoi, Haiphong, Hue, Danang and HCMC. The film festival offers audience a versatile program for all ages and the chance to get an in-depth view into the German film scene. Eight films by renowned directors and famous actors deal with issues of human coexistence: love and pain, courage and fear, happiness and loss. As a special guest, director, scriptwriter and producer Norbert Lechner will present his film Fortune Favors the Brave in Hanoi and HCMC, and will be available to answer questions from the audience. Fortune Favors the Brave tells the story of an unusual friendship between Vietnamese sisters Linh, Tien and 11-year-old Pauline. Contact: Visit www.goethe.de for more info

SEPTEMBER 9 What: 22nd Anniversary Gala Concert Where: Saigon Opera House (7 Lam Son Square, D1); 8pm; VND200,000 About: The program will also present Antonin Dvorak’s Symphony No. 7 in D minor and Carnival Overture, op. 92. The performance will be led by Maestro Mer. A. Tran Vuong Thach. Nguyen Huu Khoi Nam became a member of the French National Symphony Orchestra in 1997. Together with the Impresa Quartet, he came in first place at the Luteceva FNAPEC violin competition in Paris. He will perform Camille Sain-Saens’ Concerto for Violin in B minor with the HBSO Symphony Orchestra. Contact: Visit www.hbso.org.vn for more info

10 SEPTEMBER 2016 SEPTEMBER 13-16 What: Everything Something Nothing Where: Saigon Outcast (118 Nguyen Can Huong, D2); 7pm; free About: A physical theatre performance transcending space and time in a show that will remind you of that forgotten place you've always lived in and what a funny thing it is to be alive. There are scheduled five pieces in 60 minutes. Pre-show Nomad Theatre will be bringing together the work of painters, sculptors, musicians, videographers, dancers and actors from around the city in a week long showcase of Saigon's best. Contact: Visit Facebook: nomadtheatrex for more info

SEP 13-16

OI VIETNAM 11 2016: A Transition Year SEPTEMBER 13 Paci c Cross Vietnam (Formerly Blue Cross Vietnam) What: Linden Fair ANNOUNCEMENT: We are happy to say that we are Where: Rex Hotel (141 Nguyen Hue, D1); 5pm-8pm About: now operating under our new name Linden Educational Services is dedicated to helping students from all over the world discover the numerous PACIFIC CROSS VIETNAM. educational opportunities available in the US. In each region, Thank you for continued support in 2016. through a series of carefully planned events such as college fairs All the best in the year of the Monkey! and presentations on US education, Linden connects students with representatives from accredited US institutions so that For more information please visit they can explore possibilities and pursue their goals in higher www.paci ccross.com.vn education. Contact: Visit www.lindentours.com for more info SEP 13

SEPTEMBER 15 What: Vietnam HR Summit Where: White Palace Convention Center (194 Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan); VND3 million About: The Vietnam HR Summit is an annual event with the goal of connecting HR professionals and leaders in Vietnam, focused on sharing and discussing policies, strategies and ways to improve performance in the workforce. Under the guidance of speakers with extensive experience in human resources management and organizational leadership, the event will sketch a broad picture of modern management methods, and tighten links between businesses, human resource management and workers. Contact: Visit www.vietnamhrsummit.vn for more info

SEPTEMBER 19 What: A Night of Romantic Songs Where: Saigon Opera House (7 Lam Son Square, D1); 8pm; VND200,000 About: The evening will feature famous works by Schubert and Schumann performed by top Vietnamese opera artists, and harpist, string quintet and woodwind quintet from the HBSO. Schubert and Schumann are two standouts of the Germanic Romanticism, known for their romance and art songs. Schubert alone had composed more than 600 songs and many artistically acclaimed and frequently performed works. Contact: Visit www.hbso.org.vn for more info

12 SEPTEMBER 2016 SEPTEMBER 25 What: The Distinguished Gentleman's Ride Where: To be determined About: Ho Chi Minh City is officially taking part in the world's largest charitable motorcycle event for owners of classic and vintage styled bikes. The Distinguished Gentleman's Ride brings together over 50,000 well-dressed gentlefolk on stunning motorcycles for Men's Health across 90 countries. The goal for 2016 is to raise awareness and USD5 million for prostate cancer research and suicide prevention programs. All participating riders must be registered on The Distinguished Gentleman's Ride website to unlock local ride details and to be in the running for prizes. Contact: Visit www.gentlemansride.com for more info SEPTEMBER 29 What: Network Girls Evening Event Where: Stoker (44 Mac Thi Buoi, D1); 6:30pm-9pm; VND500,000/person for free flow food and drinks About: Network Girls is a monthly event that gives expat and local female working professionals a channel to meet and connect, exchanging ideas on social life in HCMC, employment and business. Running over 10 continuous years, Network Girls continues to be a strong and reputable platform for women in Saigon. Network Girls meet on the last Thursday of every month for breakfast or cocktails & canapés. Contact: To RSVP (required) and to join the email list, email Van at [email protected]

OI VIETNAM 13 The Bulletin Promotions and news in HCMC and beyond...

EXPLORE SPA OPENED Located on the 9th Floor, Explore Spa by Le Méridien (3C Ton Duc Thang, D1; 6287 6697 or 6263 6688 ext. 6950) is an oasis of comfort offering a range of services from aromatherapy to signature massages using marine-based products and local ingredients across signature treatments. The ocean-themed spa takes inspiration from underwater seascapes, and begins with a journey across a bridge that allows guests to discover the coral reef-inspired Explore Bistro. Guests are invited on a peaceful underwater vacation when resting at the relaxation lounge, saunas and Jacuzzi rooms. Highlights include the signature Four-Hand Choreography—giving the feeling of waves flowing across the body by using choreo- graphed movements of two therapists. As a celebration of Explore Spa opening, the Underwater package is now VND1,176,000++ for a 95-minute session (a 30 percent discount on the regular rate) and includes a 35-minute marine body scrub and a 60-minute relaxing full body massage. All spa programs include full access to their relaxation lounge, sauna and Jacuzzi rooms. Promotion is valid for September, October and November.

NEW DIRECTOR OF CULINARY AT PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT Takahisa Erikawa was recently appointed as the resort’s new Director of Culinary Service. Takahisa commenced his culinary career at the age of just 18, and has since gained a wealth of experience at four- and five-star luxury hotels and resorts in Japan, New Zealand, China and Fiji. Having traveled around the world to learn global culinary techniques, he has now developed his own inimitable style, which combines international flavors and ingredients with the exquisite cooking methods of his native Japan. Visit www.pullman-danang.com for more info.

CARAVELLE SAIGON FOOD PROMOTIONS September 5–18: Elevate your casual get-togethers at Cafe de l’Opera (Ground Floor) with a selection of fine sashimi and seven kinds of imported sake. Unwind in splendid surroundings and allow your taste buds to roam over an array of fresh salmon, tuna, sea bass, mackerel and surf clams served sashimi-style with traditional Japanese condiments at VND450,000++ per person. September 9–30: Caravelle chefs are answering the call for burgers and more burgers with a smorgasbord of miniature tasting options. Cocktail-size burgers, beef cheese burgers, chili prawn burgers and tandoori chicken burgers—they’re all on order a la carte at Tapas Kitchen (Ground Floor) for VND368,000++ including hand cut potato chips and coleslaw salad. September 12-24: Reflections (Third Floor) is welcoming carnivores with a special menu of prime US beef. Tenderloin, rib-eye or Black Angus strip loin ranging in weight of 150–350 grams will be expertly cooked over a charcoal heated iron grill and presented with a choice of two side dishes, traditional condiments and sauces: Black Angus beef strip loin (VND580,000++/ 200g), Rib-eye (VND590,000++/ 200g), Beef tenderloin (VND490,000++/150g or VND650,000++/200g). Visit www.caravellehotel.com for more info.

14 SEPTEMBER 2016 OI VIETNAM 15 TROI OI! The country in numbers

woman in Hanoi, who has been going through menopause for the last three years, has given birth to a healthy, 3.2kg baby girl. According to Le Thi Thu Hien, deputy director of the hospital and head of the assisted reproduction department, 58-YEAR-OLD the woman had expressed her hope of having a baby against the backdrop of her old age. Despite doctors’ warnings of the potential risks and failure of in vitro fertilization (IVF) as well as her lack of the physical ability to raise the infant, the woman insisted on going through with IVF. Earlier in 2016, the Hospital of Posts and Telecoms in the Vietnamese capital reported that Tran Thi Phuc, 53, and her husband, Nguyen Van Manh, 54, had given birth to their first daughter, Tuong Vy, after undergoing IVF at the hospital.

fine was issued to a man for assaulting a flight attendant during his flight VND from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City. The business class passenger admitted 15 MILLION he had slapped the flight attendant because he suspected her of stealing his iPhone 6 Plus. The passenger said in a report that after waking up, he found his phone no longer lying on the folding table and believing that the stewardess had stolen it, he slapped her. “When I cleaned and folded the table as the plane was about to land, I did not see any phone there,” she said, adding that she and her chief flight attendant then began searching for the phone. “But he stopped the search and suddenly slapped my face.” The phone was eventually found 20 minutes later under his seat.

is spent every year on mowing grass and pruning VND trees in public places around the country’s 700 BILLION capital, according to the head of the municipal administration. Nguyen Duc Chung, chairman of the People’s Committee, stated that in order to prevent wastefulness, activities would be halted and the trimming work will only continue at gardens along Hoan Kiem Lake and a few other major sites. The People’s Committee has decided to restructure the Hanoi Green Trees-Park Limited Company, downsizing it from 21 to six subsidiaries. The company will be charged with planting trees, along with pruning grass and flowers in the city for better management.

emergency aid stations are scheduled to be erected in Saigon around areas with heavy traffic. The health department has proposed collaborating with an Australian university to train paramedics to man the stations, or an average of one per district. The emergency stations, which can use spare ambulances at district hospitals, would make sure patients get first aid promptly before they reach a hospital. Also, each emergency care station will be staffed and 25 equipped to provide first aid for people of all ages and various conditions, from injuries to strokes.

16 SEPTEMBER 2016 of the country’s daylight working hours will be lost by 2025 because of rising temperatures, according to the “Climate Change and Labor: Impacts of Heat in the Workplace” report from the UNDP. In 1995, when temperatures rose 0.74C, Vietnam lost 0.8 percent of daylight working hours. In 2085, if temperatures were 2.08% to rise 1.5C, 2.58 percent of daylight working hours would be lost. If temperatures were to rise 2.4, 2.7 or 4C, Vietnam would lose 5.09, 6.31, and 12.72 per cent of daylight working hours. “The lowest income-bracket work—heavy labor and low-skill agricultural and manufacturing jobs—are among the most susceptible to climate change,” the report noted. It estimated that 5.7 percent of Vietnam’s GDP would be impacted by rising temperatures. Fifteen to 20 percent of annual working hours in Southeast Asia have already been lost in heat-exposed jobs and this may double by 2050 as global warming continues.

graves found in central Vietnam. Vietnamese archaeologists have discovered 23 tombs and antiques dating back 3,000 years at the 3,000-YEAR-OLD Dong Ba Hoe (Lady Hoe’s Cave), an archaeological site in the central province of Binh Thuan. The discovery of the ancient tombs is the result of a month-long excavation conducted by the local museum and the National History Museum at Dong Ba Hoe in Ham Duc commune. Besides the tombs, scientists also found many ancient working tools such as stone axes, rudimentary grinding tables, and ceramic cups about 25 cm high, decorated with rope patterns. Archaeologist Truong Dac Chien, from the National History Museum, said this new discovery reveals development from the pre-Sa Huynh to Sa Huy culture.

OI VIETNAM 17 IN CONTROL

Singer Tia Hai Chau opens up about maturing musically and her latest single, Wasted JON ASPIN Text by DISTRICT 360 Image Provided by

IN THE PANTHEON OF but a continuation of the form she POP STARS, where twerking, had displayed since age five. That’s Let it Go Twitter feuds and a willingness to shed when her father, himself a multi- When we meet at Thao Dien's Park some celebrity skin are all but expected, instrumentalist, entered her in her Lane, although she looks more tousled Vietnam’s Tran Hai Chau appears to be first local singing contest. She won rock-chick than doe-eyed pop hopeful the exception. Having lived under the it, beginning a trend that continued now, Tia is nervous again. This time it’s glare of the media spotlight already, throughout her childhood, and not because she’s about to perform with and after a period of what can fairly be precipitated a move with her family to Brian McFadden, which she did at The described as ‘growing-up,’ the aspiring Ho Chi Minh City at 15. “I don’t know, Grand Ho Tram in December last year, singer more commonly known as ‘Tia,’ I just always won,” she says, a little or step onstage at the release of Out is now more comfortable than ever with embarrassed by the fact. From there the of Control, the ballad she recorded for where her career is going. competitions got bigger, culminating in Universal Music two years ago. For those unfamiliar, Tia became her televised win. The reason for her nerves is that public property back in 2013, following However, there was something this is her first interview in English. It’s her TV success on the first season about The Winner Is that didn’t sit no small deal, and marks a big step in of HTV’s singing game show The well with her. “When I became famous her development as an international Winner Is. A hybrid adaptation of because of the contest and had no songs singer. That’s what she wants to be, The Voice and Deal or No Deal, she of my own, I found it really hard to she says, and she's been working on entered the competition as a 19-year- answer the question of what to do next,” it in collaboration with a close friend. old, impressing with her composed says Tia, explaining that she thought He plays guitar, she writes melodies performances and a voice that belied the end of the show might also spell the and her manager Tania helps her with her stature. Taking on some of the end of her career. Now listing Lana del lyrics. “It’s very hard for artists singing biggest anthems in the world at the Ray and Coldplay as major influences, in English here to be famous,” she time including Rihanna’s Unfaithful she wasn’t always so sure. “On the show, explains. “I still write in Vietnamese, and Adele’s Rolling in the Deep, she I didn’t know what kind of music would but for me, it’s very difficult to find my took out the final with her rendition of fit me and suit my voice. I was so young voice, to express myself the way I want Jazmine Sullivan’s Bust Your Windows. and so innocent and everything was to in my own language.” It’s something Immediate comparisons to those artists new. I was very nervous.” you hear a lot about in an industry followed, particularly Adele, who she Tia is poised for a comeback with mired in rainy day ballads and K-Pop said she loves but “is nothing like me a new single out and an album in the clones. at all.” works. “To be an artist takes a lifetime,” Her ambition to become a For a girl from Gia Lai Province she says. It’s some distance from where legitimate artist might be seen as a in Danang, it was a surreal moment, she was at just a few years ago. microcosm of the new Vietnam she is

18 SEPTEMBER 2016 part of, one whose youth aspire to This might include what fans say 360 and Believe Digital. Seeing her fulfill their true potential on the world about her physical appearance. In potential, Adam flew to Vietnam stage, not locally. Whether she gets to an interview with daily newspaper recently to record the song. make the art she wants to or not, Tia’s Tuoi Tre published in July, she openly It’s a catchy tune about girls who firmly fixed on the long term, with a discussed her recent weight loss (she like falling for the (slightly) bad guy, maturity which has everything to do tells me it’s 7 kg, but the newspaper someone who’s “a little too nine-to- with a new found calm. “Many people quotes it at 10) achieved through five” during the week, but shows his who have met me before can’t believe yoga and healthy eating, after people true colors at the bar on the weekend. that I’m the same person.” criticized her for not having a ‘sexy Pop with attitude, and a departure Having gone from budding starlet body.’ “It’s normal,” she says, “a part of from her first release and singing with little idea of where she fit in to the job.” Again, Tia is unfazed. “Many covers that she’s known for. the more centered young woman people have their opinions, but I don’t Regardless of how Wasted she is now, she credits a lot of it to care what other people think, I just performs, Tia is now seeing her management, of learning what live.” everything in front of her as part it means to be a strong woman, and Occupational hazards aside, of the journey she is committed to, to reading about Buddhism. And Tia is hustling, promoting her new successful or otherwise. “The best all of this has helped her deal with single Wasted (available on iTunes), feeling is not money, not success, but some real-world challenges that have a song she recorded with Canadian love,” she exudes, “and I want people included moving out of her parents’ producer Adam Hurstfield. She met to know that through my music. If home, a problematic relationship with him through the Universal Music you do nothing, success will never a boy and generally taking care of contract she won on television and it come, so do the things that you never herself. “I’m able to ‘let go’ of things a is the first song from a debut album thought you would and success is lot better now too,” she says. she’s currently recording with District guaranteed.”

OI VIETNAM 19 SHE'S A BLIND CHEF, A COOKBOOK AUTHOR AND WINNER OF THE THIRD SEASON OF MASTERCHEF. IT'S CHRISTINE HA

TEXT BY MICHAEL ARNOLD IMAGE BY NGOC TRAN

FOR ANY WRITER, THERE IS A compelling joys. PROFOUNDLY tender relationship between thought The satisfaction of that drive unfolded rather dramatically and hand. Writing is a taming of that most apelike of all of our for MasterChef winner Christine Ha, popularly known as “The parts, where fingers built for clutching at boughs and running Blind Cook”—she was the first visually impaired contestant on through coarse hair are urged to focus the clutter of the mind the show, and her surprise victory has brought her celebrity not and build elegant structures of language on the page. That only for being a competent chef, but also as an inspirational creative process is somewhat similar for a chef, who must public figure. What’s not commonly known is that Christine is command the subtle literatures of flavor into perfect order with first and foremost a writer rather than a cook, and it was the steady flashes of the fingertips. Those skilled in both disciplines book deal that came with her prize package that she considered should find that there is a certain crossover in the mastery her greatest kickback from the whole experience. The resulting of food and words, and that the drive to communicate by cookbook became an international bestseller, and will soon be building these elements into pleasing forms is one of life’s most followed up by a memoir—which she hopes be ready for release

20 SEPTEMBER 2016 at some point in the not-too-distant future. I realize now that that’s obviously the link between food and “Food was something that I didn’t really enjoy doing until writing, it’s being able to create. Creating something, putting I went to college,” explains Christine, who now regularly visits yourself out there, making something to share yourself with Vietnam, having recently appeared as a judge on the local other people so that they can relate to you and understand you.” version of MasterChef. “I had to teach myself how to cook, Like many Vietnamese-Americans, Christine grew up because in college I had a kitchen and I didn’t have a dorm with parents who expected her to pursue a distinguished cafeteria anymore. So I started by buying a very cheap set of career in medicine or law; as a child, she would lock herself in pots and pans, and then I used a cookbook. I read it word for the bathroom to enjoy reading while they weren’t watching. word and just tried to execute the recipes. Once in a while I Eventually settling on the third-best option—studying business would cook something that was actually good and that other and entering the world of commerce—Christine’s path took a people would enjoy. That made me really happy, to be able to tragic turn when her vision began to fail in her early 20s. She create something and have someone else enjoy what I created. was soon diagnosed with NMO, an autoimmune disease that

OI VIETNAM 21 would inevitably rob her of her vision. It was partly having to reputation here—in a country that cannot resist taking Christine adjust to the reality of her illness that prompted her change Ha as their own culinary ambassador—but it has also filled in some of track toward creative writing, which provided a form of of the gaps in the personal stories that lie behind her own cooking therapeutic catharsis. She enrolled in a writing course at the background. “When my book was translated, the editor told me University of Houston, and as her condition deteriorated, she that ‘you use some strange ingredients!’ ” she laughs. “An example began working on an autobiographical thesis called A Literacy is, growing up in America, my parents didn’t have access to young of the Hands, which dealt with the process of learning braille, coconut. So to make something like thit kho, the braised pork belly, interwoven with the experience of the loss of her mother to you’re supposed to use young coconut, but while I was growing up cancer. It’s the material in this thesis that she is now developing in America, my mom only had access to coconut soda. So I grew up for her memoir. only knowing thit kho as made with coconut soda. Coming here, “I didn’t think that I would have to teach myself or learn the editor was like, ‘What is this? We use coconut!’ That’s when braille, because audiobooks are so easy to get your hands I learned that my mom had to adapt her recipe to whatever was on,” she says. “That’s what I did through graduate school— available to her over there.” everything I had to read, I read audio. Then I went to listen to “Every time I come here, other people teach me new someone who is visually impaired, and he was lecturing on how things,” she adds. “It’s always like, ‘oh, I’m scared to take you you’re not truly literate if you’re visually impaired and you don’t somewhere to eat or cook for you because you’re the master know how to read braille. So I thought, that’s true, because chef,’ but everyone has a unique story with their food. Who am when you listen to audiobooks, you’re taking in the different I to say what is wrong or right, good or not good, you shouldn’t tones or the different inflections that the reader is placing upon like this or that—so every time I come here, it’s a humbling the words. It’s not until you actually read the books yourself experience, an amazing experience. I think that as a chef, as a that you’re truly literate. So I told myself, if I’m going to be a writer, as any artist, you always need to stay hungry and you true writer and graduate with an MFA then I need to learn to always need to keep learning. You should never feel like you read! So I decided to do it.” know everything. I very much enjoy being told that I don’t Learning to read all over again with her sense of touch know anything.” was something Christine had to force. “I talk about that in the As an instant reality TV celebrity, it’s inevitable that essay,” she explains, “the scientific research behind how when Christine’s somewhat two-dimensional reputation as “The you read, you read with your eyes, so there’s a part of your Blind Cook” precedes her, whether that be here or back in the brain that understands literacy. Once you lose your vision and States. “I think reality television has a knack for doing that. read with your fingers, the nerves that connect to that part They can magnify certain aspects of you,” she admits. “At first it of the brain now come from there. So it reworks itself. It’s no was very strange for me, because I wasn’t in the entertainment longer connected to your optic nerves, but it’s connected to the field initially; I went to try out because I love cooking. But then nerves in your fingertips. Then that becomes the literary part I started understanding what the world of television was like, of your brain.” and being in the public eye, and then people watching you on MasterChef has represented something of a diversion for television and thinking that they know everything about you, Christine, albeit one that’s worked out particularly well for even though your TV image is only one aspect of you.” her. The chance to take hold of her ascendancy in the world Partly in response to becoming a caricature of herself, of cuisine and divert that back into her passion for writing Christine insists on maintaining her own blog (www. has been enormously satisfying. Her bestselling cookbook, theblindcook.com) and personally manages her celebrity social Recipes from My Home Kitchen, manages to explore the Asian- media streams to flesh out her public personality. “I guess I American comfort food she grew up with while combining her can’t say I’m uncomfortable,” she concedes: “That is an aspect love for food and writing. of me. For me, it’s almost like the flipside—there’s all these “It was very exciting for me to work on that,” she says. “I people online, and they’re my ‘fans,’ but they don’t seem real to had to submit a lot of recipes in a very short amount of time, me either. They’re a two-dimensional character to me as well, because they were trying to publish it in time for the next they’re these names online. It’s not until I meet people in person season. I had a very short deadline, so it was a lot of long late that I feel that these people are real, and it really touches me nights testing and writing recipes. But writing the stories that I’ve been able to affect so many people in a positive way.” that go behind each recipe—that was much more of a fun Regardless of how long her MasterChef spotlight shines, experience for me, because it got me to write.” Christine Ha’s direction in future will always be intimately The book explores the same Asian-American comfort involved with her dual creative passions. “People always ask, food that won her the MasterChef title: “Comfort food is very ‘why do you love food or cooking so much’,” she shares, “and I important for me, it’s food that tells a story,” she explains. “I’m say food is very universal; everyone has to eat in this world, so all about comfort food because I’ve eaten all sorts of things I think two people who don’t share the same political beliefs, in my life, from very humble street food to very expensive share the same sexual orientation, the same socioeconomic Michelin-rated restaurants around the world. But I think background, whatever it is, you both still need to eat, and you the food that brings me the most joy is when I eat food that can sit down at a table and share a meal together. I feel there’s brings back memories of childhood, or food that reminds me a love and understanding and mutual respect that is created of certain people who I love, certain people who I care about. by that setting. I think it’s the same thing with literature. I think that goes for everybody; if you ask a lot of chefs, even Everyone can relate to stories. Every story’s been told, but there the ones who create very high-profile progressive dishes, are different unique perspectives that a writer can bring to the oftentimes when they go home from work, they will eat their table with their particular story. There’s a certain sensibility, comfort food, whether it’s a taco or mac n’ cheese, or something I feel. Cooking is the same as writing, it’s about sharing your that just comforts them.” story, or your love, or whatever it is—and that’s your connection Bringing the book to Vietnam has not only enhanced her with other people.”

22 SEPTEMBER 2016 OnceTHE ANCIENT VIETNAMESE Upon CINDERELLA STORY a COMESTime TO LIFE TEXT BY MICHAEL ARNOLD, WITH ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY NPD KHANH IMAGES BY DUY DINH AND LUCIOLA

THE PAST DECADE has been time when there simply weren’t enough under her belt—and last month, she a period of phenomenal change for theaters to financially sustain a big-budget released her own major contribution to Vietnamese cinema. One of the most cinematic release, The Rebel proved that the evolution of local cinema with Tam significant drivers of that change has local movies could still attract sell-out Cam: The Untold Story. Part Hollywood- been the influence of returning Overseas crowds. Everything that has happened in style blockbuster, part Chinese kung- Vietnamese dramatic artists and Vietnamese cinema since that time has fu fantasy piece, and 100 percent filmmakers, who have been working to been touched by its success. Vietnamese in execution—the film is a bring a touch of Hollywood panache to the The Rebel’s leading actress was young beautifully-rendered treatment of the entire homegrown industry. This trend starlet Ngo Thanh Van, a Norwegian- traditional Vietnamese Cinderella fable was largely initiated by American Viet educated girl from Tra Vinh who had Tam & Cam. Kieu Charlie Nguyen’s 2007 martial arts returned to Vietnam to become a model, Tam Cam is something of a flick The Rebel, often regarded as the first actress and singer. Van now has her cautious epic. While it doffs its hat to true commercial Vietnamese-language own talent agency (VAA) and a decade’s international giants of the genre such film for coke-&-popcorn audiences. At a worth of experience in the industry as Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon,

OI VIETNAM 23 the film holds firmly to its Vietnamese speaking to Oi Vietnam just before the effective immortality of this character roots through its somewhat rural sense premiere of the film last month. “There has often drawn suspicion. “It’s said that of humor and conspicuous locally- was nothing for me to exploit in Tam, in the end, Tam boiled Cam and her inspired costume. One of Tam Cam’s I could have performed her with my mother alive,” says Lan Ngoc. “People riskier elements is its cast of mostly new, eyes closed, she was too easy for me. I’m sometimes think the cruelest character relatively inexperienced actors—while not afraid of villainous roles, I was just is Tam, because she was like a demon there are a few veterans taking supporting worried that I couldn’t adapt—so far, all that can’t be killed. I didn’t look at it roles (including distinguished entertainer of my characters have been ones with that way. When we do something cruel, Thanh Loc, as well as Ngo Thanh Van a sad destiny, essentially honest girls. there should be a kind of restlessness in herself, who plays the part of the evil Tam is even ‘lighter’ than my previous us that makes us wish we hadn’t done stepmother), the film is dominated by its characters; there’s no background something wrong or brought about bad ensemble of fresh-faced young leads. context, she’s always assisted by the fairy, consequences. I think Tam was reborn One of the film’s surprise whereas my previous characters were after she was killed in order to give Cam performances is delivered by rising taken from real life. They have to fight a chance to look back and rethink what talent Ninh Duong Lan Ngoc, who plays back when things get tough, they have she did—‘if I had a second chance, I Cam—the evil stepsister who conspires to suffer to overcome their trials. When wouldn’t kill you.’ But no, she didn’t. I see with her mother to murder Tam after Tam cries, the fairy just appears. But Cam Cam as being undeniably cruel. People she marries her handsome prince. Lan is different. There were many things I shouldn’t be able to say that her cruelty Ngoc has received several awards for had to change—in my voice, my manner, comes out of obedience to her mother her previous roles as heroines; she was my performance… I didn’t want it to be and that she’s actually a good person originally cast as Tam Cam’s protagonist, similar to anything I’ve done before.” underneath: Cam is bad to the bone, but switched as soon as the bad-girl part In the fairytale, the spirit of Tam inside and out.” became available after the original actress returns to life as a bird, and later in couldn’t commit to the project. other forms, to protect her beloved STANDOUT ROLE “When I heard that, I immediately prince in times of peril. In previous Now 26, Lan Ngoc has been asked to play Cam,” says Lan Ngoc, dramatic treatments of the story, the appearing in movies since she was 19.

24 SEPTEMBER 2016 role for her, and she is exceptionally proud of the production. “People rarely judge costume movies accurately,” she observes, “but we have our own way of thinking. For example, Blood Letter [Victor Vu’s 2012 martial arts drama] was set in a specific dynasty, while Tam Cam is in no specific dynasty or time. We always imagine that those characters would wear traditional simple costumes, but the costumes in the film were really amazing. No one could have ever thought of those details but Ngo Thanh Van—big headgear with huge flowers, the heavy brass armor worn in the castle—exceptionally beautiful. The costumes are gorgeous, they don’t need to match a certain dynasty. Our setting is similar to one you might see in China, there’s an old castle, but we weren’t as developed, and had no choice but to create one in 3D. There’s lots of 3D work in this movie. It’s still a stretch to compare it to Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon, but we can still suppose this is a blockbuster for Vietnamese people. There are many breakthroughs, such as the 3D work. It was supposed that those things couldn’t be done here, but we did it.” To Lan Ngoc, this production of Tam Cam still represents the Vietnamese culture at heart, despite the influences of international cinema and cinematic techniques. “Each place has its own culture,” she reasons. “In Cinderella, people look very elegant—even her stepmother, her two stepsisters. But in Tam Cam, they’re ordinary people, the typical Vietnamese countryside people of the past. Cinderella doesn’t have to do farm work or go fishing. She went to a great ball, while in Tam Cam, it’s just a local fair. There are many other added details, but in sum, it’s still the case that the good people are always rewarded, while the evil ones will be punished. The common story ends with Cam and She’d been attending casting calls since cried a lot.” the stepmother put in jail, while Tam her first year at the College of Theater The filming regime was tough. becomes a queen and lives happily ever and Cinema, but hadn’t had any luck “I wasn’t allowed to go home for two after with the prince. That’s for children, until she reluctantly attended a long- months, I had to stay in the studio at that’s why the fairytale gives only the shot tryout for a major project—Nguyen Long An,” says Lan Ngoc. “It was like an most beautiful parts. Only as adults do Phan Quang Binh’s Floating Lives—and isolated island. I wasn’t allowed to go we explore the other details.” scored a major role. “It was a huge project home because the director wanted me to Ultimately, Lan Ngoc recognizes the with a big investment that had been in nurture a certain mentality. My character long tradition that Tam Cam represents. development for three years,” remembers in Floating Lives, Nuong, is a girl who “There were versions of this story made as Lan Ngoc. “I realized that there was no suffers from an untold sadness deep in her play, cai luong opera… but never a movie way I could hope to be involved, but out heart; the director wanted me to cultivate until now,” she says. “Van is a foreigner, of respect to a good friend, I went for that mindset. Those two months were a lot of her friends are foreigners, so casting. Afterwards there was the usual very hard. I didn’t know how it would when producing movies, she also aims ‘OK, now you can go, we’ll call you if be perceived when it was released. Then at foreigners so that they can come to there’s anything.’ So I said to myself ‘Fine, when it did come out, people read the enjoy it, just as we Vietnamese go to back to my studies.’ At the time, I was character differently than I expected, watch Cinderella. That’s also part of considering another major, because my saying she was very good, very natural. our love toward our country. When we family background is in police work, and That was an opportunity for me to be do something, we expect it to be taken I wanted to follow that path—but before noticed by audiences. Now whenever overseas and made well-known. I think anything else happened, I was told I was my name is mentioned, people think of not only Tam Cam, but every Vietnamese chosen. In general, it was really tough to Nuong. Anything we do passionately movie shares that same expectation. We get that role, that opportunity. But when really does get rewarded in kind.” just want to promote and expand our film we actually started to produce it, there Lan Ngoc has delivered a number of industry.” were even more difficulties. A young other strong performances in her short Tam Cam: The Untold Story is actress without any experience knows career since playing Nuong, but the currently showing at BHD cinemas nothing. There was a lot of pressure. I character of Cam is certainly a standout nationwide.

OI VIETNAM 25 THE CITY OF TOMBS Villagers compete to build increasingly lavish and elaborate tombs for their ancestors TEXT BY NPD KHANH

IN VIETNAM, BELIEF OF THE AFTERLIFE and the importance of its preparation runs deep among the populace. “There’s a saying that’s really popular around here: “Life is fleeting, but death is eternal.” Everybody here knows it, and while some don’t agree with it, most do. Death is serious business for people in Hue,” says 82-year-old Luong Do, keeper of Hue’s An Bang tomb city. Located on the outskirts of Hue, An Bang village’s transformation from a former fishing community into the bustling city of the dead it is known as today began in the early 90s when a national economic uplift brought wealth to millions of Vietnamese. With their newfound windfall, the villagers used it plan for their afterlife or the death of their relatives. Before long, elaborate mausoleums and ornately gilded sepulchers started replacing rough-hewn tombstones and cheap markers made out of wooden sticks. Their sizes and beauty grew as the people accumulated more wealth. Singular tombs soon graduated into sprawling complexes of interconnected clan mausoleums. In ten years, the once unassuming An Bang graveyard ballooned from a small plot to overtake the village almost entirely. These days An Bang is known first and foremost for its thousands of tombs fit for kings and the almost single-minded dedication to the preparation of the afterlife of its residents. It has even appeared on Agence France-Presse, an international news agency headquartered in Paris, for the sheer majestic and wildly eclectic architecture of its cemetery. “People from other provinces in Vietnam often find this puzzling. They wonder why we spend so much money on grand graves when our own houses are in shambles,” says Luong Do. “But to the people of Hue and An Bang,

26 SEPTEMBER 2016 there is so much riding on a tomb. A tomb is not just the resting place of a singular person, at least not to us and not anymore. A tomb is forever. A grand tomb constructed as a symbol of the child’s love and respect for their elders will bequeath great fortune on their descendants. In An Bang, a shoddy tomb or even just a plain one can be taken as a sign that the children of the dead care nothing for them, and that is a mark of great shame upon the living.” Unlike nearby Hue, where UNESCO regulations are in place to preserve the 18th and 19th century buildings, locals in An Bang have been free to let their creativity run wild. From Buddhist-style temples to Gothic tombs, with a hefty sprinkling of Romanesque columns, the cemetery's aesthetic is anything goes. While traditional Vietnamese dragon carvings are popular, some graves also appear to draw inspiration from Hindu imagery, with others featuring Christian or Islamic symbols. A few of the tombs stand empty as some villagers have built them in advance of their own deaths, including one that was completed in 2005 and is now waiting for its owner. Because of the enormity and meticulous details on the tombstones, they require constant upkeep and this is where Luong Do, and other professional tomb keepers like her, come in. And in An Bang, even the tomb keepers are special, with some families claiming they are the descendants of the keepers of the imperial tombs. “I was not always a keeper,” says Loung Do. “I’ve been a keeper for 20 years, but before that, I was a construction worker, and before even that, a fisherman. My grandfather though, he was a keeper to the tomb of emperor Thieu Tri, and he taught my father the proper way to maintain a tomb, and my father in turn taught me. It was a position filled with great pride. But war took that from our family. For decades we did whatever we had to just to survive. It gladdens my heart that near the end of my life, I can return my family to their roots.” Luong Do is in the process of passing down the family business to his sons and grandsons. He says there is more that goes into the keeping of a tomb that just dusting. There are funeral rites to be observed and remembrance rituals to be carried out. And, above all, everything has to be kept in pristine condition and the cleaning must be carried out with the utmost of respect. There are even months when the keeper is required to live in the tomb itself and not with his family. This is a task that comes with a lot pressure according to Luong Do. “Not everyone can be a tomb keeper,” he says. “A proper one that is. One that is fit for the old kings. I have great hope NGOC TRAN that my grandsons will carry on the family’s legacy. I would hate for us to

IMAGE BY IMAGE stray from our calling again.”

OI VIETNAM 27 RIDE IN STYLE, SAFELY MEET THE MAN ON A MISSION TO CREATE THE ULTIMATE MOTORCYCLE JACKET TEXT BY TAYNE EPHRAIM

THOMAS GROVÉ, amongst other things, is a video game publisher, design consultant, cyberpunk aesthete, climbing enthusiast, and most recently, a man on a crusade to change the way people dress and protect themselves while riding their motorbikes. Not content with the poor choice of motorbike jackets available in Saigon, in terms of both protection and style, Thomas, decided the best course of action was to make one himself. His latest project is Séfu Fashion (Facebook: sefu. fashion) and, specifically, the Athena jacket. “I put strong stock in the axiom ‘action speaks louder than words,’ and so rather than just talk about my jacket—which I will do also—I thought it best to wear it and let the jacket speak for itself,” Thomas says. And it certainly is a distinctive piece: a little sci-fi, reminiscent of 90s cult films like The Matrix, but still minimal, sexy and sleek. Thomas wears the Athena prototype jacket everywhere, testing it on planes (“it makes the armrests more bearable”), dinner functions and even sailing in the Caribbean. “The girl’s version is sexier than the guy’s version,” he says. “There wasn’t originally going to be a guy’s version, more of a unisex option, but when you think about it, there’s nothing sexy about the word ‘unisex.’ You can put that in the piece, by the way. Sex sells.” After a year of intensive research and design, Thomas is ready to launch Athena, his first product, with only a few details left to finalize. He fills me in on his process and how he got started. “I do a lot of work inside my own head—putting things together, visual prototyping—mostly when I’m driving.”

IMAGE BY REGGIE J. DOAN MODEL: KIM B NGO

28 SEPTEMBER 2016 Making the daily commute downtown from across the bridge in Thao Dien gave Thomas plenty of time to think. He found himself paying attention to what people were wearing as they rode their motorbikes. “When you hit the streets here in Saigon, you notice all the people wearing hoodies,” he says. “The thing is, they’re not that good looking, they’re hot, and they’re not protective. It can tend to be uncomfortable riding your motorbike under the tropical sun. I felt like those people wearing hoodies must be feeling it a lot worse though, and so I started prototyping in my head some different solutions. I wanted something that would make the ride more comfortable, but still look good.” When the idea of jackets first came up, Thomas initially thought of importing them from the US, but nothing seemed right for Vietnam. “The problem is that the jackets on the market make you look like an American football player, and it’s a real mismatch with the Vietnamese aesthetic. I could import them, sure, but they’d be expensive and no one would want to wear them anyway because they’re so heavy and hot to drive in. So, we really had to go back to the drawing board. We sat down with a blank piece of paper and asked ourselves, what kind of jacket we would like to wear if we were starting out from scratch?” Inexperienced in fashion, manufacturing and fabrics, Thomas had to learn everything. “I could tell you more than you would ever want to know about nylons and polyesters,” he says. Thomas ended up sourcing a nylon fabric developed by DuPont during the Second World War for bulletproof vests, the same company who, along with producing the raw materials for parachutes, powder bags and tires, also had an important part to play in the Manhattan Project, constructing the plant that produced the atomic bomb. OI VIETNAM 29 creative minds to mingle. What I realized through dxSaigon, bringing together all these different disciplines into one space, was that if I were to talk to an architect or a fashion designer or a graphic designer, I was learning new approaches, new innovations which I could apply to become better in my own craft.” Through these events he met a young fashion designer from Denmark. New to Saigon, she was looking to collaborate. “I’d had this fashion project rolling about in the back of my head for some time,” he says. “And this was my opportunity.” It was around this time that Thomas had his first motorbike accident. “You could say that was a bit of a turning point. A revelation of sorts,” he says of the event. Picking himself up off the road, bruised and bleeding, it suddenly clicked. “After that I had it, the three pillars of my design. It had to be something that looked good, was comfortable to wear and was protective. And thus Séfu Fashion was born.” “Séfu” means “safe” or “fresh breeze” in Japanese and also comes partly from the name of Thomas’s son, Ryusei. Originally intending to market it as a luxury item, he and his team quickly realized that demographic, many of whom choose taxis or private cars over scooters anyway, was the wrong approach. “The goal of the project is to protect people, especially women,” Thomas explains. “But I also have to make the whole thing worth my time. Initially I had the idea that I wanted to target a niche market, and later if someone NGOC TRAN wanted to make something similar for cheaper than that’s great. Kind of like

IMAGE BY IMAGE the iPhone model, where the first iPhone comes out and it’s really expensive and then a year later something very similar “That’s the material of the patch peculiar advantages, especially when it that’s half the price comes out and now you can see on my elbow here, and the comes to bringing original concepts to the there’s something for everybody. That shoulders,” he says. I reach over and design table. Thomas’s first few years in was my original approach.” it feels tough enough, but whether it Vietnam were spent working as creative But Thomas found a better way to would be stopping any bullets remains director at Game Loft, a company that reach his goal. By selling online, through to be seen. “It’s pretty tough, eight times has been ranked amongst the biggest a website, Facebook and Instagram, stronger than denim. But you don’t want mobile game publishers worldwide, with direct to the consumer, he cuts out the too much of this stuff on you. It doesn’t a quarter of their worldwide workforce middle man and is able to bring it down breathe that well, just for padding, which based in Vietnam. to wholesale price. “My market is anyone is why I introduced the air mesh vents all “It’s quite common for people working who has an office job and rides a scooter, over the place. Initially it was just to get in video game design for a long period of which is lot of people.” more air into the sleeves, but it ended up time tend to get burned out, and that’s He also has other, more “classic” looking pretty damn cool.” especially true with a big company like designs in the works. A woman’s trench Game Loft; it’s a lot of pressure. And that’s coat and a men’s sport blazer, designed Safe, Fresh Breeze pretty much what happened with me. to be a little more high-end. Thomas has The fact that Thomas’s Athena jacket After two years of designing games I felt also started development on a hoodie. resembles something out of an anime film it was time for something new,” Thomas “The hoodie is already huge in Vietnam. is no accident. “My background is in game says. With all the research that’s gone into the design. I’m really into cyberpunk, like A lot of his innovation, including the Athena jacket, the concept is to add the Ghost in the Shell and Akira. I can’t escape ideas behind Séfu, Thomas attributes to same protective patches on the shoulders the 90s. Those are my formative years and Design Exchange, or dxSaigon, a project and elbows, and apply it to a hoodie. I’m you could say that I’m still there.” he started up after leaving Game Loft. very excited about it and I think it could This background offers its own “It started off as networking events for just end up being our bestseller.”

30 SEPTEMBER 2016 TELL TAIL SIGNS PET COLUMN

Pet Tech With a family that includes six cats, two dogs and a How the Internet of Things can couple of dozen fish, Wayne Capriotti is a zoo curator and, along with his wife, publishes Vietnam’s first pet help take care of our pets magazine Me Thu Cung (www.petmagazine.vn).

rain storms), and parasites (ticks and fleas). Apparel and bedding designed with ‘intelligent materials’ to combat elements from the environment. Check out Ruffwear (ruffwear.com) and Dog Amore (dogamore.net). Smart, connected pet collars with GPS tracking and smartphone app health monitoring. Security features include ‘virtual lease’ technology and positive reinforcements to control behavior remotely. Check out petpace.com, fitbark. com and whistle.com. Health and Wellness: Health and wellness tracking apps (apps and cloud-based software) allow you to input symptoms and receive comprehensive information on diseases through THE CONCEPT OF PET capabilities, facial recognition software communication with a veterinarian. TECH, or the Internet of Things and even the ability to take a selfie of Check out doggydoc.com and (IoT) for Pets, is all about connecting, our pets and sending it back to our caninejournal.com/dog-apps/. interacting and receiving real time smartphones. Diet and Feeding: Weight control, information of our dogs and cats In Vietnam, many owners are feeding and dehydration/hydration through intelligent, internet-connected concerned about the quality of pet care controls. Smart bowls and feeders can devices and software in the privacy of services they receive and the limited feed pets remotely, eliminating the need our home or in public spaces. availability of nutritious pet foods. One for full bowls of food and water that spoil It has only been a few years since inspiration in the development of pet quickly in the heat. The devices can be we first heard of the brave new world tech devices by the designers, many with remotely used for those short vacations of IoT—tracking apps, wearables and a background in veterinarian medicine, without your pets, and also eliminates devices designed to enrich people's was to develop devices to empower and daily overfeeding. Check out petnet.io lifestyle. Now there is increasing educate owners to use technology to and sureflap.com. attention focused on creating similar monitor a pet's health regularly and to Entertainment and Playing: devices for our pets. As the concept of be able to quickly take preventive action Interactive toys and training tools for pet humanization develops in Vietnam, if necessary. socialization. Interactive devices used where pet owners see themselves as ‘pet If we focus on the problems of remotely or at home and controlled from parents' and treat their pets as family pet ownership in Vietnam there a smartphone. Check out puppod.com members, pet owners will begin to are five areas of concern where pet and getshru.com. adopt devices that connect them to their owners can use pet tech intelligently Pet technology is a recent trend and favorite furry buddies through their and thoughtfully (iOS and Android many of these devices are still developing smartphones, anywhere anytime. compatible): and some only available as pre-orders. A This article provides a brief Behavior: Separation anxiety few will only work within the designer's introduction of three common (this home alone syndrome can proprietary internet networks in North categories of smart pet products and create fear, noise and commotion in America or Europe. But it is possible services to consider: pet wearables, pets) and training. These interactive to experiment and ‘hack' together a apps and cloud-based software, and video monitoring and treat dispenser solution using a combination of available connected interactive monitoring devices can comfort 'home alone devices, apps and with regular consulting devices. Devices include health and pets’ by allowing you to connect and with your veterinarian. Anything that wellness monitors, GPS trackers, communicate remotely, take selfies and increases the security and awareness smart interactive toys, training tools, dispense treats. Check out petbot.com of preventive health care of our pets is and remote-controlled cameras and and petchatz.com. warmly welcomed, insuring a richer feeders. The devices may have built-in Environment: Security and safety, and longer life with our ‘fur babies’ in WiFi, RFID or Bluetooth networking weather conditions (heat, humidity and Vietnam.

OI VIETNAM 31 WHO AM I ?

32 SEPTEMBER 2016 For the Tonkin 19.45 Collection Inspiration, it’s about the journey of self-discovery. When we grow older, we forget who we are and try to conform to society’s standards and traditions, therefore this collection was created with the message: We travel distances to find out who we are but we forget that where we started our journey, that is where we truly belong and our dream is always there, beside us.

OI VIETNAM 33 34 SEPTEMBER 2016 DESIGNER VANISTA CONCEPT (66/32 NHIEU TU, PHU NHUAN) PHOTOGRAPHER VIET TU NGUYEN MODELS TRAN THANH THUY HANG NGUYEN HAIR & MAKEUP XI QUAN LE STYLIST HOANG THU

OI VIETNAM 35 THE SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE (SIDL), PROUDLY SPONSORED BY TIGER BEER TEXT BY OI VIETNAM IMAGES BY HOANG KHANH LAI

THOUGH THE MUSIC Minh City. Now with over 300 members, Division 1: The Vinyls, played at Vinyl GROOVES in the background, and 20 bars serving as darts venues, bar; Division 2: The Bounced Checks, onlookers remain silent and still as the SIDL has become the largest regular played at Shrine Clubhouse; Division archer lines himself up and stares at the gathering of expats in the city. Although 3: The Nomads, played at Malt bar. The tiny red sliver underneath the number the league is comprised of expats from winner with the most personal trophies 20 at the top of the board. Standing around the world, they are eager to was Mr. "Guppy" Liem. perpendicular to his target, he sharply promote darts amongst the Vietnamese The second half of the season inhales before releasing the dart with as well. started on August 9 and will run until a smooth, swift movement below the December. Those interested in joining elbow, his body otherwise motionless. Competition nights are on Tuesdays at can check out their Facebook page: The dart arcs toward the board before 7pm. They currently have 3 divisions Saigon International Darts League or landing squarely in the center of the with 7-8 teams per division. The winners email [email protected] for sliver, denoting a score of 60—the from the first half of the season were: more info. highest score you can achieve with a single dart. He confidently proceeds to throw his remaining two darts into the same tiny space, as the previously breathless crowd erupts into cheers. In 2002 The Saigon International Darts League (www.thesidl.com) was officially founded with six teams and eight locations. A lot has changed in the last decade—the league has grown to include corporate sponsorships (Tiger Beer has been their official sponsor for five consecutive years now), charities and plans for major future expansion. SIDL has turned Tuesday night (7pm sharp) into a weekly event in Ho Chi

36 SEPTEMBER 2016 LEGAL EASE LEGAL COLUMN

See You In Court! Keep calm and find an alternative method to settling legal disputes in Vietnam Marijn Sprokkereef is an associate of Audier & Part- ners, an international law firm with offices in Vietnam (Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi), Myanmar and Mongolia. Audier & Partners provides advice to foreign investors on a broad range of legal issues. Dear Marijn, My name is Azad and I work for a Turkish manufacturing company. no appeal possible against an arbitral award. Furthermore, arbitration is We’ve been operating in Vietnam since 2008 and throughout the years usually private and confidential, and we’ve been involved in a few minor business disputes. Once, we even it is potentially faster and cheaper than court proceedings. Please bear started court proceedings in Ho Chi Minh City, but when we realized in mind, however, that arbitration that it could take a very (very) long time, we decided to drop the case may involve costs that you would not necessarily find in court proceedings, and we managed to find an amicable solution with the other party. I such as arbitrator fees, rental costs for wonder whether arbitration would have been a better option for our hearing facilities and travel expenses if you decide to hold the hearings company. Could you please tell me a bit more about that? abroad. Unfortunately, arbitration in THE ISSUE that you described is arbitration. In your case, I assume we Vietnam has yet to reach its full very common because not many foreign are talking about arbitration between potential. One of the reasons for that investors like to use the Vietnamese two or more private companies. is related to the so-called “recognition courts to settle their disputes. One of However, arbitration between a foreign and enforcement” of foreign arbitral the reasons for that are the lengthy investor and a host State is also possible. awards. Thanks to the 1958 New court proceedings in Vietnam, and the You can think of an expropriation York Convention, of which Vietnam (perceived) lack of independence of dispute relating to a big construction has been a member since 1995, the judges is another one. Compared project. When States arbitrate against foreign arbitral awards are generally to “traditional” proceedings at a court, each other, we are talking about “State- enforceable in most jurisdictions arbitration is considered an “alternative” to-State arbitration” or “interstate around the world. However, in method of dispute resolution. Other arbitration.” This kind of arbitration Vietnam it has proven to be extremely examples of such alternative methods often involves disputes over territorial difficult to enforce a foreign arbitral include: mediation, conciliation and and maritime boundaries, and the award, for example if one was expert determination. recent arbitration in The Hague about rendered by the ICC International Arbitration can be defined as a China’s territorial claims in the East Sea Court of Arbitration in Paris. process by which the parties agree to is a good example. An alternative option, which is submit a dispute to a non-governmental Now why would your company becoming more and more popular, decision-maker, selected by or for the choose to go with arbitration instead is arbitration at the Vietnam parties, to render a binding decision, of court proceedings? One of the main International Arbitration Centre resolving a dispute in accordance advantages of arbitration is that it offers (VIAC). Generally speaking, foreign with neutral procedures, offering each a neutral forum for parties to settle their investors consider that arbitration party an opportunity to present their dispute. Instead of having to choose at VIAC is more flexible, efficient case. I realize that this is a rather long between either the Vietnamese courts or and faster than proceedings at the and complicated definition, so let me the Turkish courts, you may now choose Vietnamese courts. Compared to try to break it down for you. The first to settle your dispute in a neutral place, international arbitration, VIAC important element to keep in mind for example in Switzerland, Singapore proceedings are potentially faster and is that arbitration is “consensual” by or in Hong Kong. A related advantage cheaper, which is especially attractive nature. In other words, the parties of arbitration over court proceedings is for smaller disputes. Furthermore, the must have agreed, for example via an that you would be free, at least to a large procedure for enforcement of a VIAC arbitration clause in their contract, to extent, to determine the rules of the arbitral award is more straightforward submit the dispute to arbitration. The arbitration and even to choose your own than the procedure for recognition second element is the involvement of arbitrators. In practice, there is a wide and enforcement of a foreign arbitral a non-governmental decision-maker, selection of specialized institutions, award. which clearly distinguishes arbitration rules and arbitrators available to from court proceedings. Finally, the fact tailor the arbitration proceedings to Every month, Marijn Sprokkereef that arbitration often results in a final your specific needs. Obviously, this answers legal questions from Oi and binding decision (in legal terms: is in sharp contrast with the fixed, readers. an “arbitral award”), separates it from and sometimes burdensome, court If you have any legal questions you mediation and conciliation. proceedings. Another key characteristic want answered, send them to There are various kinds of of arbitration is that there is normally [email protected].

OI VIETNAM 37 The Next Generation From pregnancy to parenthood and from preschool through to university, in this month's issue we speak to students, parents and educators to gain some insight into the complicated world of growing up in Vietnam.

COURTESYIMAGE OF BYAVANI NAM QUY QUAN NHON RESORT & SPA

38 SEPTEMBER 2016 OI VIETNAM 39 HAVING A BABY in Vietnam For the majority of prospective Hospital, Family Medical Practice and is becoming an increasingly common parents, finding the right hospital is the Columbia Asia. Keep in mind that while occurrence among expats from a variety most important step in planning for the local public hospitals may offer less in of countries. However, the decision birth of their child. In Ho Chi Minh City terms of desired services and facilities, to give birth here rather than in a the main maternity hospitals are Hanh top-end international hospitals may neighboring city such as Bangkok, or to Phuc Hospital (www.hanhphuchospital. occasionally tend towards over-servicing return home, is not a straightforward com), Tu Du Maternity Hospital (tudu. in the area of medical diagnosis and one—it involves careful thought com.vn) and the Saigon International treatment, perhaps in an effort to justify regarding a variety of issues, ranging (SI) Maternity Hospital (sihospital. their higher fees, and also to avoid the from how to find the highest quality vn). Highly rated obstetrics services possibility of litigation. care to a plethora of cultural and and maternity care for foreigners are Tu Du is by far the busiest maternity bureaucratic considerations. also provided by Franco-Viet (FV) hospital in the city. According to the

40 SEPTEMBER 2016 unless they have partners, family members or friends to translate. The quality of care at SI may be higher than many local hospitals, yet the cost is much lower than foreign-owned and managed hospitals. FV Hospital is promoted as the “premier” health facility in Vietnam offering international standard healthcare, which of course strikes a chord with those who would prefer Born in a foreign doctor, or are interested in five-star VIP services. Also, many of the staff speak some French and/or English, including midwives and maternity nurses. However, despite an excellent and progressive approach to pre-natal care and delivery, there have been reports from several parents of an unwillingness Vietnam to communicate clear information about Key cultural issues every foreign woman the condition of babies who are taken away to receive special neo-natal care. should know to have a safe and comfortable This situation is unacceptable to many foreigners, who may need to demand childbirth experience in Vietnam detailed explanation and justification for such action, and the right to veto any non-essential treatment which may TEXT BY JESSICA ANDERSON separate them from their baby. Smaller private clinics such as the Family Medical Practice generally provide an excellent standard of medical care with a high level of English, at a premium cost (which of course is much lower than private medical care abroad). And perhaps most importantly, they offer an understanding of Western attitudes and expectations concerning childbirth that is invaluable for many foreigners; because it’s not something that should be left to chance, it is important to meet all key staff as early as possible to ascertain the philosophy of the service provider towards maternal and infant care. It’s a… Lot of Paperwork! Despite high levels of training and experience at any hospital, certain

NAM QUAN cultural differences can present a variety of difficulties to overcome. For

IMAGE BY IMAGE example, the World Health Organization recommends that babies should be fed colostrum, the initial yellowish breast Deputy Director there, they perform an be suitable for most foreigners who can milk that contains protein, vitamins, average of 150 deliveries a day. As with afford to pay more. minerals and antibodies to boost infant many large public hospitals, it suffers The VND58 billion Saigon immune systems, within one hour of from limited funding which has resulted International Maternity Hospital was birth. However, it is common practice in inadequate staffing and facilities to the city’s first private hospital, and in Vietnam for this ‘dirty’ milk to be cope with overwhelming demands. And caters mainly for Vietnamese women, discarded and babies to be fed bottles while there is wide acknowledgement including the wives of foreigners. of formula until the mother’s ‘real’ milk that under these trying conditions the Although some staff, mostly doctors, comes in. Therefore, it is imperative to hospital manages to deliver an efficient speak English, the majority of nursing insist that breastfeeding be commenced level of medical service, the reduced and administrative staff speak immediately and to forbid the use of standard of care compared to that Vietnamese only, which can be an bottled formula by nursing staff if the offered by the private sector may not insurmountable barrier to non-speakers, mother wishes to breastfeed exclusively.

OI VIETNAM 41 When it comes to the birth itself, will not allow). Many Western women be registered as Vietnamese citizens, the principle should be the same. It is are concerned with the high level of you must also take a letter from your essential to ensure that perceptions of medical intervention which is prevalent own embassy or consulate stating your what is going to happen in the delivery in Asia, so it is critical to demand intention to register your child as a room are compatible. And the most that the necessity for procedures is citizen of your own or your partner’s effective way to guarantee this is the clearly explained and for consent to country (with a written Vietnamese preparation of a birth plan that outlines be gained before they are performed. translation). After the Vietnamese birth the parents’ wishes and for it to be This particularly applies to unnecessary certificate has been issued it must be discussed with doctors and midwives induction of labor and caesarean section translated into your own language, and early in the pregnancy. For instance, deliveries (which now account for more submitted with the above mentioned unless requested to do otherwise, some than a third of all births in Vietnam) if documents to your embassy. hospitals remove babies from their these are things you wish to avoid. The Choosing to have a baby in this mothers immediately after birth for key ingredient for successful planning is country is a complex, and at times extensive testing that could easily be to make sure that everyone is aware that difficult process, but it can be done, delayed to maximize bonding time. If it the lines of communication must be kept and it has the potential to be a hugely is not possible to find individuals who open at all times. enriching experience. The key to are sympathetic and prepared to respect And once you are holding your success is to do a thorough research, this ‘negotiation’ process, then it is time precious bundle safely in your arms, and arm yourself with adequate to explore alternatives. And while such there are other issues that must be information (and a comprehensive plans are routine in many countries, addressed. The children of foreigners insurance policy to cover any worst-case they are not so common here, so don’t be born here must apply for a Vietnamese scenario situations) before making your surprised if it’s a matter you have to raise birth certificate before they can register decision. Then you must find a health yourself. at their own embassy to be granted care service that is capable not only of Other requests that can be specified citizenship. This process involves taking meeting your medical requirements, in a birth plan range from preferred the hospital-issued birth certificate to but also of respecting your wishes and pain control methods to positions the Department of Foreign Affairs (with communicating effectively with you for laboring, and whether or not a countless copies of your own passports throughout your pregnancy, the delivery partner can be present for the birth and proof of residency documentation). of your baby and during the post-birth (which some Vietnamese hospitals As children born to foreigners cannot period. NGOC TRAN IMAGE BY IMAGE

42 SEPTEMBER 2016 Nanny State A how-to and a how-not-to guide to the world of nannies TEXT BY SOPHIA CHEN IMAGES BY NGOC TRAN

MOST PARENTS will tell you not want the job. Jason Liu, an expat nanny. “She left a couple of months that looking after kids is a full-time job. who has relocated here, has tried to hire ago. I found one person, but she didn’t Even without trying to juggle work and his sister’s former nanny for his own want me—she went with someone else an attempt at a social life, taking care children for 50 percent more than the as she preferred to look after a baby of your little ones can be as draining as wage she earned from a local restaurant. than older kids. Now it seems the help it is rewarding, so it’s unsurprising that She refused. is interviewing you, and from the 20 most expat mums and dads hire home “It’s also getting harder to find a live- women that applied, there’s only two help. An advantage of living in Vietnam in nanny,” he adds. “Now the only people that I would consider.” is inexpensive childcare: a space at a who want to do that are people from Like many others, Samantha agrees daycare center in the US or Europe the countryside, somebody that you find the best way to look is through word- can cost anywhere from USD600 to through someone else’s help, or a distant of-mouth. Another popular point of USD2,500 a month, and the cost of relative of yours. But if you can find contact is the notice board at the An private care infinitely higher; but in someone from the countryside who will Phu supermarket, where many nannies Vietnam a full-time nanny who works accept an average Vietnamese salary, for advertise their services, and Facebook the standard Monday to Saturday week most expats this arrangement is far from but the posts on there are hard to will receive approximately VND5 million ideal—if you can’t speak Vietnamese, quality check. Poaching your nanny to VND10 million a month. Two years you simply can’t communicate. from another family can be an effective ago that figure could be as little as VND2 Another factor driving higher method, although you may find yourself million a month—especially among wage expectations is foreigners’ large unpopular. local Vietnamese families—but as the disposable income and differing value “How long it takes to find a nanny economic boom continues, wages and system. “Expats that are hired overseas really depends on your requirements— local expectations are on the rise. This to come here have large allowances finding a nanny that speaks English well may be a big jump, especially when you for their cars, drivers and home,” adds can be very difficult, and there’s more consider a Vietnamese accountant will Jason. “It’s ridiculous. An acquaintance demand now as there are more and typically earn just over VND4million a told me he has a car allowance of more foreigners,” says Samantha. “If you month after finishing school, but VND10 USD1000 a month, so paid their driver don’t need a nanny fluent in English, million is hardly a pinch for most expat USD800. These people are driving the it’ll cost around USD250-USD350 for pockets. inflation.” live-in. For a working week of 40 to However, even if you are prepared to It’s understandable that if people 50 hours, the wages are a little lower. hand over more than the market price, think they can earn more, they’re going For a nanny that can speak English, finding your perfect Mary Poppins is to ask for it, and the increasing demand depending on availability the monthly becoming harder and harder. Nannies for nannies coupled with a deficit wage will be USD350+, but in every might be better paid than graduate of workers means it’s very much an case we will need to discuss if who will positions or sales roles, but changing employees’ market. pay insurance, provide meals, the 13th expectations and career aspirations Samantha is an expat mom who month salary etc.” mean that many Vietnamese simply do has found it hard to replace her former While local agencies can only

OI VIETNAM 43 provide Vietnamese nannies there is paying slightly more for Western help gone through a total of five nannies since an alternative—some expats prefer to is certainly food for thought, especially they had their child. They let the first hire foreign au pairs for the educational as foreign au pairs come with a relevant one go because she wasn’t that clean, the development and stimulation these au educational background and will often second because she wouldn’t feed her pairs give their children. One Spanish hold first aid certification. child who kept crying, the third because expat businessman explained how he Au pairs are relatively easy to of a personality conflict, and the fourth hired American or Canadian au pairs find—there are many websites that because she went about her work in too through www.greataupair.com as he offer an introduction service between leisurely a manner. The fifth resigned on wanted his young children to learn au pairs looking for work and families her own because she lived too far away. English at home. Then, once they started overseas, but while hiring a foreigner Tracy has a list of qualities that at a local English-speaking international comes with certain reassurances, the she looks for in a nanny. “Look for school, he hired Spanish-speaking au element of Vietnamese cultural contact intelligence, the ability to think for pairs so they could study their native many expats want for their child and themselves, and an independent Spanish language at home. the family as a whole is lost. For those character. Someone with a smiley happy “The point with a foreign nanny who do want to be able to communicate face, who will bring warmth and joy into is not just to look after the kids—the easily, employing an English-speaking family—she’ll be central to your life, so Vietnamese do this very well—but Filipina nanny at a local rate is another it’s important that your kids like her.” to make sure they don’t spend their option. If you are lucky to find the local afternoon watching TV or doing If you do opt for a Vietnamese equivalent of Mary Poppins, who’s nothing,” he says. “I want them to be nanny, the problem then is to determine practically perfect in every way, how can active, play games, do art and crafts, whether the person in front of you has you make sure she’s happy enough to sport… and foreign nannies understand the capability and personality to take stay? Nguyen Giang worked as an expat this better.” care of your children. For many expat nanny for many years, and while she lists Another important point is that the families the ultimate question is, can you a reasonable monthly wage is important, difference in wages is not particularly trust them? she ranks a good relationship and trust great. “The salary varies, but in the last “It’s the hardest thing in the world at the top of her priorities. “For me, I five years that I’ve employed au pairs, to do,” says Tracy, mother of three. “If tell them: ‘Believe that person and build I pay between USD200 and USD300 only someone has a formula for judging a relationship.’ When I went to my first a week,” he adds. “Of course on top it. You can only ask them questions. I family they opened their home to me, of that we have to provide food and try and get someone back for a second they made me feel welcomed. I didn’t accommodation as she lives with us and interview. I won’t employ anyone who get a high salary there, but I feel they is really part of the family. I’m guessing hasn’t worked for Westerners or hasn’t are my family. My advice is, even if your the wage of an experienced Vietnamese got children themselves.” nanny sometimes makes mistakes, don’t nanny is around USD400 a month, so American expat Grace says her head treat them badly—nobody is perfect. the difference is not that huge.” begins to ache at the mere mention of Most important is finding someone who With agencies charging USD400 a the process of hiring nannies. In the last is happy, good for children. If you love month for English-speaking nannies, two years, she and her husband have children, it’s not really a job.”

44 SEPTEMBER 2016 Someone Special

Teachers, charities and parents are fighting to improve education for children with disabilities TEXT BY LORCAN LOVETT IMAGES PROVIDED BY THE KIANH FOUNDATION

THREE YEARS AGO, a deaf- learning; her independence grew, she plague the hopes of families who blind toddler who self-harmed was was given high-powered hearing aids struggle to give their children brighter brought out of a psychiatric hospital and and is now beginning to express herself futures. Stigmas in Vietnamese society into The Kianh Foundation, a charity for through sign and some words. contribute to the problems, discouraging children with disabilities in the central Behind her success story are the parents from sharing their child’s province of Quang Nam. The bright failings of a woefully ill-equipped disability with the community. Although girl’s behavioural issues challenged public school system for children with the mountain of challenges is steep, a staff, but eventually her strength and disabilities. Under qualified staff, scarce handful of institutions and individuals determination were guided towards equipment and unsuitable classrooms are overcoming it.

OI VIETNAM 45 Parents in Ho Chi Minh City displayed an inspiring example by launching a non-profit school for autistic children eight years ago. They acknowledged, however, that it was an act of desperation: Vietnam has no public school dedicated to educating children with disabilities. Some public schools accept children with special needs—16 in Ho Chi Minh City, according to director of the HCMC Integrated Education Support Center, Nguyen Thanh Tam, in 2014—but they are put into general education classes. Private specialized schools in the major cities attract families from rural areas, which lack services, although these are often unlicensed, with hefty tuition fees and unqualified teachers. An undercover Thanh Nien News reporter exposed the heinous depths that specialized schools can sink to when he secretly filmed staff at the now-closed Vuong Special Primary School in Saigon. Their crimes included flogging a student with a coat hanger and smashing his head against a door. Nevertheless, educationalists have of the children had been successfully to school. Reliable statistics have seen positive developments over the included in general education classes. been rare since then, but the projects decades. Vietnam’s current tilt towards The schemes spread to three other helped change attitudes and policies on the inclusion of students with disabilities provinces and eventually 4,000 new disability, ultimately leading to greater in education began in the early 1990s students were enrolled in neighborhood efforts on inclusion. with two pilot projects, one rural and one schools, further integrating the children Special education specialist at urban. Awareness campaigns and house- into their communities. Despite its Saigon Star International School, Stacey to-house searches for children who success, a 2011 World Health Report Conner, says full inclusion can be “a were missing from school lists identified said that only two percent of preschool serious drawback” if executed poorly. 1,078 potential students with a range and primary schools in Vietnam are ‘There’s a danger that the child will be of impairments. An evaluation of the inclusive and 95 percent of children subjected to inclusion in a classroom schemes four years later found that 1,000 with disabilities still do not have access where they’re constantly unsuccessful,” NGOC TRAN STACEY CONNER IMAGE BY IMAGE

46 SEPTEMBER 2016 says Stacey, who is introducing a disabilities and encouraging children that the school is not legally qualified to pyramid-style system of support to through positive reinforcement also play diagnose—only to recommend outside ensure no student slips through the vital roles. service providers. cracks at her school. “You want to make sure that [an As a consultant outside of her role During her 10 years in the field, alternative curriculum] doesn’t alienate at the school, she has seen conditions Stacey has taught students with medical the child socially or emotionally because being stigmatized. “I’m hesitant to disabilities such as cerebral palsy, and they’re completely taking everything say people do believe this, but [some] intellectual disabilities; for instance, in that’s happening [around them]. say it’s sort of a punishment in a way, when a child has an IQ of 70 or lower. You don’t want them to feel like they’re a karmic comeback for someone who She alters the curriculum for children being socially and emotionally not at the has made mistakes or done something with special needs without removing appropriate grade level.” they shouldn’t have done, and now it’s them from main group: a class may read Explaining to parents of a student coming back on the parent in this form, a paragraph while the child who cannot in an international school that a child which is heartbreaking because these manage the task combs through the is showing a disability is a sensitive are beautiful, wonderful children that text and marks out a particular letter. task because “not everybody wants a you work with and you love. Often [the Improving the class’s understanding of diagnosis,” she says, hastening to add parents] don’t want to talk about it or reach out for help because if they reach out for help other people will know and it will get out in the communities.”

Parade of Promises The National Law on Disability (2010) dedicated a chapter to education for people with disabilities. It guaranteed monthly subsidies of VND180,000 for those with disabilities that prevent them from working and VND360,000 for those who can’t carry out daily activities. “If you are living on a local salary, it would be incredibly daunting [to make sure your child receives the appropriate education],” says Stacey. The law flaunted a parade of promises: the right to education for children with disabilities, reduction and potential exemptions on their school fees, and guidelines on teaching and assessing the children, to name a few.

OI VIETNAM 47 Stacey says there’s a discrepancy Nick said that they have received between policy and implementation of children who were initially accepted into that policy, an observation echoed by the school system but then asked to leave Vietnam National University’s Journal when there have been no clear signs of of Education Research (2013). The development. The charity aims to guide study interviewed local authorities, some of the children with behavioural sector departments, and people with issues or mild cognitive disabilities disabilities along with their families, back into the mainstream system. Early a third of whom said they could not intervention, a preference of Stacey’s afford to pay the cost of textbooks and from Saigon Star, has seen results at the transportation. charity. The study revealed that even in Young students are taught skills to the specialized schools families and prepare them for a structured, academic charities had to supply equipment such environment, so far sending five pupils as Braille and wheelchairs, but it favored back into the school system; the latest specialized schools over the inclusive being a five-year-old boy with high- approach and reported an increase in functioning autism who had spent two services for disabled children from 2009 years at the charity. to 2011. “We will be monitoring him closely Nick Keegan, director of Business but he is yet another example of how Development at The Kianh Foundation, early intervention really works,” said said via email that facilities for children Nick. He added that families of special with disabilities were “virtually non- needs children in rural areas are existent” when the charity began in forced to keep their children at home 2001. “There has been a noticeable because of ill-equipped local schools. increase in support and training “In particularly difficult circumstances, provided by foreign NGOs. However, families often give up their children to “Like many things in life, significant there is still a huge need for specialized an orphanage or similar institution, as improvements cannot result without services and support that has yet to be they simply cannot cope. There is a real significant investment,” he added. “Not adequately addressed.” and desperate need for special needs only financial investment but also time, The charity has helped at least 200 education and therapy support services, resources, effort and a willingness to 300 hundred children and their not just in rural areas. It is heart to improve. There is a lot of good families, and currently supports 100 breaking for families to be faced with foundation work being done in Vietnam children. Over the years, the most the decision of having to surrender their by the authorities and development common disabilities of children in the children to an orphanage.” partners. Funding and a long-term charity have been cerebral palsy and Nick recognizes that city services commitment are necessary to build on Down’s Syndrome although there’s been for children are improving and progress made to date and to bring about a rise in the number of children with increasing but still inadequate while the a significant scaling-up of the reach and autism. situation is far dire outside the cities. quality of services.”

48 SEPTEMBER 2016 School on a Hill In the world of international schools, the newly opened Anne Hill International School aims to stand out IMAGES BY NGOC TRAN & ANNE HILL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

ANNE HILL is owner and principal principal, I have actually invested my close attention to introducing creative of Anne Hill International School own money. I ran my own school in and outside-of-the-box learning (annehill.school)—a new International Singapore (called Tots & Kids) from activities, ensuring classes are engaging School in Ho Chi Minh City, which 1990 to 2000. At that time, private for the children. Hence, our motto: caters to children from 18 months to childcare education was becoming ‘Learn, Grow, and Play’ the AHI way. six years. Anne is a Singaporean who popular among Singaporeans and the We emphasize child-centered has lived and taught in many countries expat community. We started with 12 education as opposed to teacher-led with a long-standing career in early children and by the second year we had classes. Nowadays, children are often childhood development. In this article over 120 students. Many parents have focused on the digital and visual, and we she discussing upcoming plans for her asked me if I am a businesswoman. I am believe outdoor play, social interaction school and her views on pre-school an educator first, then a businesswoman and hands-on activities are just as education in Vietnam. with a long-term view. Our investment important. Children need to be engaged decisions are built on this fundamental with other children to learn core skills Why did you choose to start a school principle. such as sharing through physical games in Vietnam? Having been in early and outdoor activities, communication, childhood development for 27 years in What will convince parents to tolerance and basic reading. Responding various capacities—teacher, principal send their kids to your school? To to parents’ requests, we will also be and owner—for a very long time I have start, the curriculum we offer and running swimming programs and wanted to bring this all together in a our responsiveness in dealing with other physical activities such as Zumba meaningful way. It helped that I have changing needs. Our teaching methods classes. Secondly, we have a strong close relatives residing in Vietnam, incorporate the Maria Montessori emphasis on teaching quality, health, which gave me more reasons for coming Approach, the Jolly Phonics program safety and hygiene standards. It helps here. I have not only chosen to be the and thematic-based learning. We pay that we are a mid-sized school in a single

OI VIETNAM 49 been one year in preparation beginning with site location, construction and licensing requirements. Over the past several months, a lot of work has been put into preparing programs, teaching materials, staffing, meal planning and ensuring that the school runs smoothly from day one. Right now it is about applying the final touches and rehearsing for the start of school.

What is your view on early education in Vietnam? Rapid economic development along with demographics, technology and lifestyle changes are re- shaping educational needs of the middle class and the expat community. Parents location where everything is under one What are your current and future are a lot more involved in the education roof supervised by one principal. This plans for the school? We are process and seeking high-quality, allows us to pay close attention to quality, encouraged by the high turnout at our affordable education for their children. and we ensure a low student teacher open house on May 22. Since then, the Expats will be looking for the same ratio, something that is foremost on interest has been overwhelming. Our standard they have been enjoying in parents’ minds. Thirdly: our location and immediate focus is to ensure we are other countries. Regulations will evolve facilities. We sit on 20,000 square feet ready to accommodate students for our to meet this need and so will the services of land on Giang Van Minh in District first semester in August. This school has offered by existing and new schools. 2, walking distance from The Vista apartments and Villa Riviera compound. More than half of the land is dedicated to outdoor play areas. Our classrooms were purpose-built to fit our teaching methods and with comfort and space in mind. Aside from the traditional playground, we have introduced novel activities such as an outdoor water play area, an eco-garden, a mini putting green and a custom-built trampoline catering to young children, the first of its kind in Vietnam. Mothers and fathers play an important role in shaping a child’s well-being in the early stages of their development. We make every effort to engage parents, from weekly hand- written reports and personalized feedback, to workshops and joint child and parent activities. Finally, we want to ensure good quality education is affordable. We have pegged our pricing competitively to meet the needs of discerning parents, while at the same time providing additional value wherever possible, such as extended opening hours till 5pm daily.

What would you like your kids to take away from their time at your school? Our school emphasizes physical, intellectual, emotional and social development, abbreviated as PIES. Aside from providing children with a good foundation for mainstream school (such as a good command of English, phonetics and basic mathematics), we want our children to be gracious, civic and environmentally conscious, worldly, and to seek out fun and meaningful activities. Above all, we want the children to relish their childhood.

50 SEPTEMBER 2016 My Life as… a public high school student TEXT BY CLARA PHUOC NGUYEN IMAGE BY NAM QUAN

THERE’S NOTHING LIKE Shouldn’t literature be about how we his desk reading the newspaper. being a 12th grade student in public high feel and appreciate a novel or a poem? 12pm: I ride my scooter home for a school. OMG! It means a timed bomb 7am: The first subject of the day quick bite and a much-needed nap. The has been set for the university entrance is math. I like math. Math is clear and afternoon tutorial on math, literature exam and failure is not an option. What straightforward. Unlike literature where and physics is going to start real soon. would happen if I fail? My parents we are punished for thinking the poem 2pm: It’s the school’s regulation would get an earful from neighbors and sucks big time, math is fair. We calculate for all students to take tutorials in relatives. Just the thought of it glooms correctly, we get the points. the afternoon but what is the point my day. 7:45am: Another math period. The of extra studying time if the teachers It’s 6am and I am getting ready teacher gives us some exercises to do do not really teach the extra stuff? I for the day. History test is on and I and he is off somewhere. I think he is do not blame our teachers for saving am fearless as my friends and I have off for his morning coffee. The class is the ‘secrets’ of passing the university strategized on tackling it—writing the like a fish market now and I am sure the entrance exams for the evening paid answers onto our table and legs. Yes, teacher next door will come over in a tutorials since their salary do not make legs. Sometimes I think we’re so creative, second and shut us up. There she is and ends meet. and we always know when to pick the we are doomed now. 7pm: I am at my math teacher’s right moments to peek. The teachers will 8:30am: Break time. My tummy home for a private tutorial. He is well- never find out in a zillion years. is rumbling and I am running like the known for helping a good number of My name is Khanh Ha and I am an wind to the canteen for a banh mi. students pass the university entrance above average student. One thing about 9am: History test. No fear really. exam. me is I hate literature. The materials needed for the test are To be honest, my friends and I do not 6:15am: Riding my scooter to school either on the table surface or on my legs. know what we like to study in university. and wearing Monday’s uniform—an ao The numbers of airplanes taken down We just pick the easiest to get in. The dai. My older sister told me that in her and the number of soldiers captured are more intelligent ones might choose time, she had to wear an ao dai to school all… on my legs. I am so thankful for my more prestigious universities. I wish to every day, except when she had Physical mother who has given me such a long leg study baking and I would immediately Education. Perhaps because of that, to use now. apply for it if it is taught at university. there were more poems written about 9.45am: It’s time for English period. There are only vocational schools that high school then than now. We seldom have speaking exercises in offer cooking and baking courses, and 6:30am: Flag saluting ceremony. English class, only grammar, reading or wearing a vocational tag is not fondly 6:45am: 12th graders have to take writing lessons. The other day I went seen in society’s eyes and will make my a quiz every day at this time. Some days to the shopping center and was asked parents lose face. A degree is always are scheduled for history while others by tourists for direction. I know how more welcomed than a certificate; are for literature. Four unlucky souls to show the way. I learnt it already but even an irrelevant degree is still better are called up to the board and have to words kept sticking in my throat. regarded than a practical and useful write answers on the board as quickly as 11.15am: Phew, the last period of the certificate. they can. The ones with better memory day is biology. This year biology is not 12am: My eyes automatically shut get better grade. Today the quiz is about part of the graduation exam’s six subjects off. In my dream I see me in the exam literature. I cannot understand why so the teacher allows us to study any room with eyes open staring at the test we have to cite word by word a poem. other subject we want. And he just sits at paper, horrified!

OI VIETNAM 51 Fields of Study

Vietnam is becoming a destination for studying, whether online or on campus

TEXT BY TAYNE EPHRAIM IMAGES BY NGOC TRAN

SEVERAL YEARS AGO I Chris teaches on the side to support on here, I’m meeting new people all the overheard a conversation between two himself. “The city essentially becomes time. It’s not like I’m just sitting alone at expats and what struck me the most my classroom. I get to discover Vietnam home all the time.” was what one of them said: “Play in the while going to class at different coffee Textbooks are another issue that East, study in the West.” And while it shops. Sometimes it can get a little noisy, crops up when one elects to study a may have sounded like somewhat of a you know, maybe they play a little too degree on faraway shores. Getting them truism at the time, throwing up my own much Celine Dion, but other than that sent from overseas can be difficult, not university options, I’ve come to believe it’s pretty good.” to mention costly. But there are ways that the notion couldn’t be a more After moving to Asia, Chris realized around it. “I tend to download a lot of misleading one. With more options than fairly quickly that he liked it here and mine from online and get them printed before, whether they be online or in the wanted to stay. “But I wanted to do it out for cheap at a photocopying shop,” increasing numbers of internationally- professionally,” he explains. “And so Chris offers as a pro tip. “It saves a lot of recognized learning institutions located studying online seemed like the obvious money, and time.” in Vietnam, the glimmering prospect of choice. Mainly because I want to keep As it turns out, a lot of the having both your play and your study in traveling, try new things and new places, materials needed for online courses the East is now more viable than ever. Oi and studying online fits with that.” are conveniently found… online. The speaks to two students who are making But there are some definite reading materials, PDFs, pre-recorded that dream a reality, both online and on disadvantages, according to Chris. The lectures and slides can be downloaded campus. social aspect is the first thing and the by students as needed. Australian Chris is a long-time level of independence required to get When it comes to exams, major Saigon denizen and is midway through those assessments in on time. “I think it cities like Saigon set up special testing an online course. “I’m studying takes a certain amount of self-discipline, locations in conjunction with associated international relations through Murdoch definitely,” he says. “Studying over here learning institutions. “Once every three University, and I love it,” he says. “And, can be pretty solitary at times. It would months I go there and sit the exam. in fact, a lot of what I learn I can apply be nice to be able to hang out with other There’s someone in the room watching to what I see living overseas. There students studying the same thing and called the ‘invigilator’ whose job it is to are units on globalization, tourism, develop a connection with people on make sure you don’t cheat. They give you international business and a heap of your wavelength. But that can be hard to the test papers and then they take the other stuff. So it covers a lot of the get studying out here.” test papers back at the end. That’s it.” aspects of living here in Vietnam. The Chris adds that Saigon’s vibrant Chris makes a winning case for other thing is that what I’m studying expat scene makes up for the lack of people in similar situations, bitten by is quite broad and it gives me a lot student connection. “It’s really no the Vietnam bug but still needing that of options for living overseas after I problem for me. You’ve got all these cool degree, and uneasy with the prospect of graduate.” places and all the social events going relocating back home in order to get it.

52 SEPTEMBER 2016 For some the idea can be a difficult one. pretty happy with the way things have from the teacher.” Studying online may just offer a more turned out. But it wasn’t always that Some students struggle with the practical alternative. rosy. “In [local] high school I wasn’t transition, unused to the kind of active “The best part about studying online a good student at all. You never could participation encouraged at Western is the flexibility,” he adds. “You can study have imagined I’d be where I am now universities. “They trained for all their 12 months of the year if you want, or if you saw me back then. I’d just go to school years in the traditional education just one semester if you want to do that. class, zone out, come home and play system and find it hard to change,” he It’s up to you as the student as to how video games. School as I remember it says. “Some of them maybe enjoyed it big or small your study load will be. For was just a lot of sitting and listening, a that way and are doing well under that me, the advantages of studying online lot of remembering dates and facts—dry system. For the less confident it can be far outweigh the disadvantages. Finding knowledge. I got tired with all of that, more comfortable. Some students are a work schedule around my studying I stopped trying to get high marks and passive learners. But for other students is very easy. I don’t have to work 9-to-5 just sort of slid through the system.” who maybe struggle with the language here. It’s not at all difficult to find jobs The turning point came with a tour barrier, for example, can be afraid to teaching odd hours, which is really day at RMIT. “I saw that things were speak up. You have to keep in mind the beneficial when you’re studying. The totally different there,” he recalls. “In different cultures and mindsets that cost of living is much lower here so I can my imagination, the idea of going to affect people’s approach to learning.” have a much more comfortable lifestyle. university had always seemed quite But it’s not just Vietnamese students You work the study around your life, not boring. Vietnamese universities have opting to study here. Vietnam, Saigon the other way around. I’d say that’s a this traditional way of thinking. You in particular, has seen a burgeoning pretty big advantage.” sit in a hall with two or three hundred increase in the number of foreign other students and the lecturer crows students in recent years as more Students, Listen Up on and on.” It’s a system that hasn’t internationally-recognized learning Twenty-five-year-old Vietnamese Duc really changed all that much since the institutes open campuses here. graduated in 2012 from RMIT Vietnam mandarin schools of a thousand years “Before there weren’t a whole lot of with a Bachelor in commerce. He spent ago: The teacher speaks, the student foreign students studying in Vietnam,” two years working for JP Morgan before listens. says Duc. “And most of the ones who did deciding he wanted to change things “It’s very different at an institution were already living here, like Koreans up a bit, and headed back to school. like RMIT,” Duc explains. “In Vietnam, whose families had moved to Saigon Now he’s working with the university’s the university education system is like for business, but now there’s a lot more international student recruitment this. The student has to be quiet and students coming over from Europe. department and studying for his Masters obey the teacher. The student cannot They know Vietnam and Southeast there part-time. As part of his job, he ask questions without the teacher’s Asia is the next big thing in the global jettisons around the globe trying to lure permission. But here, you can just jump market and they’re coming here to find prospective international students to in the conversation anytime; you have opportunities, and to experience what RMIT’s campus in Ho Chi Minh City. the freedom to disagree with the teacher. it’s like to live in an Asian country. I’d “It’s a good job for me,” he laughs, There is an open conversation between wager more than 80 percent of them will having just returned from a university teacher and student, a much closer get a job related to Asia after graduation. fair in South Korea. He seems to be relationship. There is a real support That’s the trend.”

OI VIETNAM 53 Wine&Dine NGON ASIA HOUSE

54 SEPTEMBER 2016 IMAGE BY NGOC TRAN OI VIETNAM 55 FIVE FOR DINING AN AMBITIOUS PLAN TO SERVE KOREAN, JAPANESE, CHINESE, THAI AND VIETNAMESE CUISINES UNDER ONE ROOF, AND SOMEHOW IT WORKS

TEXT BY JOEL ZORRILLA IMAGES BY NGOC TRAN AND NGON ASIA HOUSE

NGON ASIA HOUSE (2nd-4th the result? A hugely diverse menu with passion juice (VND65,000) and a mojito floor, Saigon Garden, 99 Nguyen Hue, quality to back it up. There is, literally, (VND75,000), which was light, limy and D1) is the ultimate in Asian dining, something for everyone. not too sweet. with five separate kitchens and five We ordered dishes from each With such a delicious start, we trained chefs dedicated to five different country and started with Vietnam— continued onto Thailand. The Thai cuisines—Korean, Japanese, Chinese, grilled minced pork meatballs with rice red curry with roasted duck served Thai and Vietnamese—spread out over vermicelli (VND95,000). The tender with jasmine rice (VND95,000) was three floors. and succulent meatballs were served exactly what you would expect in I’m usually wary of restaurants with lettuce, noodles and rice paper. Thailand, evenly spiced throughout the that serve food from more than one We used the rice paper to wrap up the sauce and duck, with that great mix country, let alone five. With a menu of meatballs, lettuce and noodles and of sweet, spicy and creamy. The duck well over 400 items including drinks dipped it unceremoniously in a bowl was tender, complementing the sauce and desserts it was both overwhelming of sweet fish sauce. The taste was a in winning fashion. Next we explored and wonderful. However, here is the fantastic combination of sweet, salty, one of the trendiest cuisines at the difference between NGON and most tender and crunchy all in one. To further moment—Korean. Taking advice from tourist traps that tend to cater to enhance the flavors, I sipped on a glass my fellow diner (who’s a quarter Korean) everyone: NGON has five head chefs of their Cabernet Sauvignon house wine we ordered rice with grilled pork ribs specifically trained in their respective (VND95,000) while my two companions (VND85,000) served with lettuce, sticky cuisine supervising each kitchen. And indulged in a refreshingly pulpy mango rice, soybean paste, tiny dried fish and

56 SEPTEMBER 2016 kim chi. Following directions from the two items from the Chinese menu. One (VND45,000) was my personal favorite, expert, we placed the pork in the middle was the classic mapo doufu, or spicy doused in a layer of condensed milk, it of the lettuce leaf, added slivers of rice Sichuan tofu (VND75,000). Hailing was a creamy affair. The taro cassava and kim chi then sprinkled on tiny from the Sichuan province of China, green beans, seaweed, water chestnut dried fish—the only problem with this the dish was an awesome mix of tofu in coconut milk (VND35,000) was dish was that we wanted more. It was set in a spicy chili bean based sauce. exotic in every way you could think such a fabulous medley of flavors and It’s a classic of the province, famous for of, and as strange at its sounds it was textures I could have gone on all night its oily red sauces which rely heavily actually everything you want in a eating it, but we had to move on to the on the iconic Sichuan pepper. The dessert, sweet and satisfying with a last remaining countries: Japanese and other dish—a standout of the night— textural afterthought that is incredibly Chinese. steamed Shanghai soup dumplings memorable. And last, but not least, For Japanese, we ordered the sashimi (VND75,000). These artfully prepared glutinous balls in ginger syrup and rice bowl (VND95,000). When it comes dumplings have just enough thickness coconut milk (VND35,000) again, it’s a to Japanese food, the rule is: If it’s done in the dough to house inside a steaming great juxtaposition of satisfyingly sweet, properly, it’s one of the top five greatest mix of scrumptious broth and ground strangeness and a great way to end a cuisines in the world. And this was the pork. It’s an explosion of flavors when fantastic dinner. proof—sweet and vinegary sticky sushi you bite in; the richness of the broth As of June, NGON Asia House has rice blanketed in a heavenly assortment coupled with the tenderness of the pork eliminated the money card ordering of salmon, shrimp, tuna and crab. It’s is nothing short of spectacular. If you're system. The restaurant is now fully hard to imagine how such a simple dish a fan of dumplings, go here. If you’re not, staffed with waiters and the previous five can produce such astonishing flavors, go here and forever be a dumpling fan. separate menus have been incorporated but it does so prodigiously. For our last For desserts we tried three into one, reducing confusion among first hurrah before the desserts we ordered eccentric treats. The mango pudding time diners.

OI VIETNAM 57 RESTAURANT REVIEW

MOSHI MOSHI, MATCHA AND MOCHI FLAVORS OF TRADITIONAL AND MODERN JAPAN CONVERGE AT NEWLY OPENED MIYAMA CAFÉ

TEXT BY MARTIN ZORRILLA AND SONIA GREGOR IMAGES PROVIDED BY MIYAMA CAFÉ

OUR VISIT was welcomed Tokyo, the cuisine is a seamless by a soft “irasshaimase” as we blend of Japanese classics with approached Miyama Café inside Mediterranean and European the Takashimaya Saigon Center influences. All the set lunches came mall (L3-01, 65 Le Loi, D1). We with traditional sides of miso soup, settled in soft fabric seats, at a table rice, salad and pickles. The soup of pale cedar wood, soothed by the and rice were made with authentic minimalist Nordic-style interior. To dashi broth, a cornerstone of quality quench our thirst we opted for some Japanese cuisine. We chose set deluxe fruit drinks (VND198,000). lunches Ni Set D (VND228,000), These were made with fruit featuring hirekatsu, a crisp fried harvested at peak season then cutlet of tender pork, and Ni Set E flown to Vietnam. The Japanese (VND328,000) with steak sukiyaki. melon drink was wonderful—sweet, The side that most impressed aromatic and ice cold. The Provence came from Ni Set D, juicy pork pear drink tasted like sunshine in and scallop gyozas served in small the French countryside. steamer baskets. The sides included The savory dishes at Miyama some well-chosen international are the work of Chef Avi Sternberg, influences, such as the roasted red who trained in Japan for eight pepper and feta bruschetta in Ni years. Taking its cues from Set E.

58 SEPTEMBER 2016 The salads at Miyama deserve special pastry chef was trained in Japan, and the in specialty coffee or chocolate, Matcha attention. Large enough for a light premium matcha is imported straight should be on your list. Beginners can opt meal, they are made with four types of from Kyoto. We indulged in a selection for the oi-matsu matcha (VND198,000), vegetables, sourced from Miyama’s very of Japanese mochi (VND218,000) and a drinkable blend of asahi and gogou own farm in Dalat. Diners can select the maple chiffon cake (VND98,000). leaves. Matcha enthusiasts can treat chicken, shrimp or salmon, grilled with The mochi is made fresh daily, and had themselves to the tenka-no-mukashi seasonings like Japanese teriyaki sauce an ideal chewy texture, an indication of (VND398,000) featuring pure asahi or Jamaican jerk spices. The dressings the skill and patience required to craft leaves. The tenka-no-mukashi has such enhance this international fusion, with them. Each mochi was filled with a rich an ideal balance of umami, sweetness options like raspberry vinaigrette, Asian cream in a different flavor: Matcha, and bitterness that it is ranks among the ginger sesame or Mediterranean tzatziki. kinako, Valrhona chocolate and yuzu. best in Japan. Our big jerk salad arrived with freshly Our chiffon cake was not to be outdone. As it sits in a sharp corner of Saigon grilled shrimps (VND238,000), cherry Soft and cloud-like, its subtle sweetness Center’s second floor, any seat in Miyama tomato confit, cucumbers and punchy and strong maple aroma paired perfectly affords unusually verdant views of the black mint leaves. with whipped cream. treetops on Pasteur Street. “Miyama” The mains here are as light and If you haven’t experienced a means “beautiful mountain,” and in balanced as the Japanese cedar trays they Japanese tea ceremony, this is the the light cool space we indeed felt as if are presented on, intended to leave you perfect informal introduction for you. we were on a snowy peak gazing down satisfied but not stuffed. In traditional Finely ground matcha powder and 75°C on the urban landscape below. One Japanese tea ceremonies, a small meal water are beaten with a bamboo whisk. could spend a pleasant afternoon here, called ichiju-sansai is served, to leave The resulting cup is a layer of bright ordering trays of coffee and sweets. participants with room for tea. Miyama green foam over a strong drink that is Or you could take a culinary dive into also offers ichiju-sansai sets, which nutty, bitter and sweet. Drink it like an modern Japanese cuisine for lunch, include a choice of full dessert. And espresso, in small sips. The Japanese or try a tea ceremony at the spacious indeed, the tea and dessert menu is truly word umami is used to describe rich, marble bar. Whether you’re impressing spectacular. There are towering French even meaty flavors, and you can taste this friends, or just yourself, go to Miyama pastries and homemade ice cream. The in the tea, as well. For anyone interested Café.

OI VIETNAM 59 RESTAURANT REVIEW

The Proof is in the Sauce

Looking up to find delicious Vietnamese comfort food

TEXT BY SONIA GREGOR AND MARTIN ZORRILLA IMAGES BY NGOC TRAN

IF YOU’VE EVER made in house. Prepare for a culinary in Vietnam. For example, the District 4 WONDERED where your food tour of the Vietnamese countryside, with features passionfruit and gin, a nod to its comes from, then head to The Fish flavors that are comforting and hearty, or port location (VND85,000). More herbal Sauce (OCB Building, Rooftop, 6th new and unexpected. and complex, the Trang An is made floor, 41 Le Duan, D1) for the answer. The celebration of local flavors begins with white wine, lime and homemade All the vegetables are organic and locally with the cocktail menu, each inspired by fermented apricots (VND85,000), and is sourced, and the pickles and sauces are a district in Ho Chi Minh City or a city named after a UNESCO site in northern

60 SEPTEMBER 2016 Fishcake spring rolls with herbs, Fish Sauce signature taro cake and light lime cheesecake

Vietnam where fermented apricots are ginger dressing, providing a light crunchy bean, with a side of fiery ginger soy sauce. a popular snack. While we sipped, we backdrop for stronger flavors. Diners can also choose from an extensive admired the woodwork of the lofted A highlight of the menu is the many list of organic vegetable sides, we went ceiling and the lights that sprout like delicious soups. Out of all the tempting with a morning glory stir-fry with banana flowers from the ceiling. On all options, we chose the chayote squash fermented bean curd sauce (VND45,000) sides the clear glass walls allow diners to soup with minced pork (VND70,000). and were pleasantly surprised. take in views of the city skyline. The clear broth seemed both rich enough Traditional ferments of fish and soybeans The Fish Sauce’s fishcakes are made to serve on special occasions, and healthy translate to flavors that are meaty and entirely of real fish, not added fillings, enough to eat when you’re sick. Grated complex without being overwhelming. and we can taste the difference from the chayote ‘noodles’ gave the soup body Don’t leave without trying some supermarket versions when we ordered with morsels of pork and green tea buds desserts. We couldn’t resist the Fish their fishcake spring rolls with herbs swimming in each spoonful. Sauce signature taro cake (VND40,000) (VND80,000). Thick slices of springy We paused in awe when they brought when we heard that its caramel sauce chewy fishcakes tightly wrapped in rice out the braised howling fish in claypot was made with real fish sauce! It had a paper, accompanied by a dipping sauce (VND75,000). This showstopper smooth chewy texture like mochi. Our that features the restaurant's namesake, comes to the table still bubbling, with first impression of the caramel sauce which was fermented by small producers a caramelized sauce that smells like was simply butter and sugar, but on the in Phu Yen Province. It has the deep carnivore heaven. Fleshes of fish soaked third bite there was a faint whisper of amber color and complex nutty aroma of up the sauce, while crispy garlic and fish sauce. We kept eating, trying to taste the high-quality stuff, with an addictive tender cubes of pork fat surround them. it again. For the less adventurous, the umami twist. You definitely need some rice to temper light lime cheesecake (VND55,000) is The roasted duck salad (VND95,000) this indulgence and absorb the sauce perfect, fluffy and melts in your mouth. delivered perfectly caramelized fatty (side of white rice, VND10,000). The creaminess is complemented by a slices of duck. These decadent meaty After those rock star dishes, the crunchy salt and sugar crust, and fresh morsels were balanced by the fresh steamed farm-raised chicken with lime zest. crunch of sliced banana flowers, basil and steamed rice, mung bean, onion, The Fish Sauce impressed with green bananas. If you have any doubts coriander and greens (VND140,000) was their fresh local flavors and unfamiliar about the merits of banana flowers, a welcome dish of comfort food. Shreds ingredients. Rather than reinventing this is the dish to prove you wrong. The of succulent chicken and fresh green Vietnamese cuisine, it feels like they have freshly sliced flowers soak up the citrus papaya rested on a bed of rice and mung found the best parts of it to showcase.

From left: braised howling fish in claypot, fermented shrimp paste fried rice, roasted duck salad, and steamed farm-raised chicken with steamed rice, mung bean, onion, coriander and greens

OI VIETNAM 61 62 SEPTEMBER 2016 CHEERS! WINE COLUMN

Land of the Long White Wine Alfredo de la Casa has been organizing wine tastings for In a cluttered wine landscape, where so many over 20 years and has published three wine books, including the Gourmand award winner for best wine education book. seem the same, the Kiwis do it differently You can reach him at www.wineinvietnam.com.

Marlborough is New Zealand’s flagship wine region; actually it put New Zealand on the international wine map with its delicious Sauvignon Blanc. Some of the first pioneers to arrive to the country first planted vines in this region around 1873, however, it was in the 1970s when the sector boomed through the hands of entrepreneurs like Sir George Fistonich (founder of Villa Maria) who brought the wine making techniques from Croatia when his family emigrated to New Zealand, and who had the vision to do something different, something good, something unique. New Zealand’s, and in particular Marlborough’s, Sauvignon Blancs are considered amongst the best in the world. Quite different to those made in France and other world regions, they bring the minerality, purity and acidity, characteristic of the terroir in Marlborough. However, and even though most of its production is Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough is producing some amazing Pinot Noir, as well as other varieties like Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. Wine makers are experimenting with blends, as well as with new grapes, trying to make the most out of the particular land characteristics. Central Otago is another iconic NEW ZEALAND is far away, in them and provide a moderate maritime wine region in New Zealand. The fact so far away from everything that climate, benefited from long daylight region’s first world medal was it’s almost isolated from the nearest hours, ideal for wine making. awarded in Sydney in 1881 from vines country by over 1,500km. Such isolation, As a result of cool temperatures, the planted by Jean Feraud. Currently together with the climate and the grape ripening time is long, which allows its main production is Pinot Noir, particularities of the different soils that flavors to develop further while keeping which produces outstanding wines can be found in New Zealand, have good acidity (that makes wines last), characterized for ripe fruit and ripe helped the wine makers in this beautiful a balance that is characteristic of New flavors, with lots of complexity and a country stand out by with their different, Zealand wines. pleasure to the palate. but beautiful, wines. Grapes are grown on both islands, Many say that if you like Burgundy The “land of the long white cloud” with several differentiated wine wines, you cannot like New Zealand has a total land area of 268,021 square growing regions and sub-regions. Of wines, however, I love both. Although kilometers and because the country is these, perhaps the most famous is different, both styles have their own comprised of two narrow islands, the Marlborough, where around 75 percent characteristics and unique personality, vineyards are never more than 120km of all New Zealand wine is being different but equally precious, and a away from the ocean; this helps cool produced. pleasure to drink.

OI VIETNAM 63 THE LIST Wine&Dine BARS

Air 360 Sky Lounge - Events Chill Skybar - Dining La Vie En Rose This rooftop bar combines vibrant music, fancy designs A modern lounge, bar and dining space that is Combining sophisticated decor with live music and and 360 degree view of Saigon's skyline to make it one considered the first “Skybar” concept in Vietnam. It is a extensive vintage wine, La Vie En Rose is the go-to of the best spots for drinks, lounging and events. perched on top of AB Tower, exclusively on the 26th place to while away your worries. 0974 58 77 88 and 27th floor with views of the city's skyline. 0936 933 833 22-23 floor, Ben Thanh Tower, 0938 822 838 21st floor, Ben Thanh Tower, 136-138 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 136-138 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Level 26, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, D1 www.lavieenrose.com www.air360skybar.com www.chillsaigon.com

O’Brien’s The Deck Bar The Fan Club Two-storey Irish-themed bar and restaurant that offers The Deck Group is proud to announce The largest sports bar in Saigon, with all the live sports a relaxed, comfortable atmosphere. Known for its the opening of The Deck Bar, right available on 12 large HD screens, an exciting place excellent food menu, this is a fun place to socialize while next to its famous to watch your team win! A great selection of food & shooting pool or playing darts. They occasionally have pan-Asian sister restaurant The Deck Saigon in beverage. We also have a enclosed relaxing garden for live music. Thao Dien, District 2. the family. 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 38 Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 The Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, D2 [email protected] www.dtdentertainment.com 3744 6632 Facebook: The Fan Club

Game On Saigon Saigon Bar Game On is one of Saigon’s biggest sports This iconic bar is a great place to watch bar, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. the sun go down over the lights of The bar also has an extensive drinks menu the city and relax with friends. Live including coffees, juices, beers, wines, entertainment nightly, including their vodkas, and more. Game On also boasts resident Cuban band, Q’vans from 9pm a function room for corporate meetings or Wednesday to Monday. private parties. Rooftop, 9th floor, Also Try... 115 Ho Tung Mau, D1 19-23 Lam Son Square, D1 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com Broma Saigon Bar onTop Bar 11am till late Famously known for ‘not being a bar’ Broma Located on the 20th floor of Novotel Saigon is one of Ho Chi Minh City’s most popular Center, onTop Bar provides views over hangouts with prices ranging from VND30,000 Saigon from an expansive outdoor terrace. Xu Bar - VND500,000. Broma is a more upscale option The venue offers a menu with over 20 A cocktail hot spot with Coconut for those wishing to escape the cheap drinks in cheeses, cured meats and both Vietnamese Martinis, Cranelo Sparkles and Passion The Pham. and international-inspired tapas. Fruit Caprioska on offer along with 41 Nguyen Hue, D1 167 Hai Ba Trung, D3 a variety of tapas with DJs and drink 3822 4866 specials throughout the week. 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Donkey Bar www.xusaigon.com An open air, but well cooled bar in the heart of Purple Jade Bui Vien on the site of the once popular Stellar Lively and cosmopolitan, Purple Jade is a cafe. A cut above the regular backpacker haunts must on any nightlife agenda. The lounge in style and offer. Downstairs is a modern bar offers an innovative menu of tasty snacks with flat screen TVs showing sports, a huge and signature cocktails in a sleek and chic circular bar and tables, and outdoor seating for aesthetic to complement the chilled-out people watching. Upstairs are air conditioned vibe. rooms, pool table and outdoor deck. 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon 119 Bui Vien, D1 [email protected] 6pm until late 64 SEPTEMBER 2016 CAFÉS

Bach Dang Én Tea House & Restaurant MOF Japanese Dessert Cafe An institute that’s been around for over 30 years, Kem Én replicates the feeling of the old Saigon by Tet Yokoso New Menu Bach Dang is a short walking distance from The Opera modern Saigonese, complimented by authentic (12/28 - 3/13). Ring in the Japanese House and is a favorite dessert and cafe spot among Vietnamese cuisine and deluxe teas, for anyone & Lunar New Year with vibrant & locals and tourists. They have two locations directly who wants to look for Saigon’s sense of nostalgia wonderful flavors at MOF. Using traditional and all- across from each other serving juices, smoothies, and friendliness. natural New Year ingredients like rice, yuzu, and matcha. shakes, beer and ice cream, with air conditioning on the 308 - 308C Dien Bien Phu, Ward 4, D3 MOF is proud to present Tet Yokoso. Rush into MOF to upper levels. 3832 9797 try these auspicious & authentic desserts to help you 26-28 Le Loi, D1 Facebook: Enteahouse start 2016 with a lucky charm! Somerset Chancellor Court, GF, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai & Mac Dinh Chi Corner, District 1 , HCMC (08)38239812 www.mof.com.vn

The Library The Workshop The Library recaptures the romance of a bygone era The cafe is located on the top floor and resembles an while offering an all-day snack menu as well as the inner city warehouse. The best seats are by the windows finest tea, coffee, wine and spirits in an elegant setting. where you can watch the traffic zoom by. If you prefer Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, your coffee brewed a particular way, there there are a Corner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 number of brewing techniques to ask for, from Siphon 3520 9099 to Aeropress and Chemex. Sorry, no Vietnamese ca phe [email protected] sua da served here. 27 Ngo Duc Ke, D1

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Caffe Bene Du Mien Garden Coffee Masstige A brand new cafe in the heart of District 1, marking A 30 minute taxi ride from downtown, but worth the Another newcomer to the Vietnam cafe scene, Korean- the debut of a Korean coffee and dessert concept in effort, this unique cafe is renowned for its ‘treehouse’ based chain Masstige offers European style coffee at Vietnam. When it opened queues stretched out the feel. Set in lush gardens, it’s a world away from the competitive prices (40,000 VND for a mug of hot Cafe door with locals and expats alike eager to try the unique chaos of Ho Chi Minh City. A destination in itself, it Latte) and accompanying light snacks. For something offer of European style coffee, blended drinks and offers much more than coffee; open from 7am until truly original, try the Avocado coffee or their alcohol- sweet, creamy dessert and cakes. Modern, industrial 11pm, it attracts workers, travellers and romancers alike. free chilled mojito cocktails. The name Masstige is a designed interior spanning two floors, and with a corner The locals love it (20,000 likes on Facebook!) for the blend of mass and prestige, meaning ‘premium but site street frontage which cannot be missed! coffee, the meals and most of all the gardens. obtainable’. 58 Dong Khoi, D1 7 Phan Van Tri Phuong 10, Go Vap. 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 (behind Sunwah Tower). 3822 4012 3894 5555 www.facebook.com/masstigecoffee caffebenevietnam.com LightBox Cafe Mojo Cafe Ciao Café This stunningly designed cafe also doubles as an event This modern, chic café, restaurant and bar offers freshly There's rarely a tourist who's been through inner-city and photography studio, so make sure you dress to baked homemade cakes, pastries, wood fired pizzas, Saigon and hasn't stopped in on the super-friendly- impress at this location because you never know who light fare and superb coffee and smoothies for dine in looking Ciao Café. It stands up well as an expat might snap your picture. They also serve vegetarian or take away. mainstay too, with its fashionable décor that varies cuisine with prices ranging between VND300,000 - 88 Dong Khoi, D1 from floor to floor and its classic selection of Western VND500,000 08 3827 2828 cafe and bistro favorites. 179 Hoa Lan, Phu Nhuan ww.mojosaigon.com 74-76 Nguyen Hue, D1 3517 6668 3823 1130 www.lightbox.vn Vecchio Cafe A self-styled Little Italy that does a good job of looking the part, this venue’s interior features ornate Italian décor, dim lighting, and antique furniture enhanced by Italian music. Offerings include fine meals, delicious gelato and beverages. 39/3 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 6683 8618

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OI VIETNAM 65 CHINESE

Dragon Court Dynasty Kabin The well-heeled Chinese certainly go for luxury and this New World's own slice of Canton with a particularly fine Dine Cantonese-style by the river at the Renaissance venue has it in spades. Situated in a classy location just Dim Sum selection, Dynasty is a traditional lavishly- Riverside’s own Chinese venue decked out with opposite the Opera House, Dragon Court features a styled Chinese venue with flawless design. Authenticity flourishes reminiscent of classical Qing period tastes. broad selection of dishes from across the spectrum of and a sense of old-world China make this one of Kabin’s cuisine is known for presenting new takes on mainland cuisines, making this an ideal a-la-carte venue Saigon's more refined options for the cuisine. A number traditional dishes as well as for its more exotic fare. as well as the perfect spot for Dim Sum. of private rooms are available. Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 New World Hotel 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 3827 2566 76 Le Lai, D1 3822 0033 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com

Li Bai Ming Court Ming Dynasty Thoroughly traditional Chinese venue at the Sheraton The best in Chinese cuisine with a unique Taiwanese Ming Dynasty serves authentic Chinese food in a Hotel and Towers offering choice oriental delicacies focus in a Japanese hotel, Ming Court is classy in its setting reminiscent of an old Chinese palace. Specialties against a backdrop of fine Chinese art. This opulent precision and graceful without compromise. It’s certainly include dim sum, abalone and dishes from Guangdong. venue, open throughout the day, is one of the city’s one of the city’s most impressive venues for fans of the 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, D7 more beautiful restaurants in this category. cuisine, and nothing is left to chance with the venue’s Level 2, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 signature exemplary service standards. 3827 2828 3rd floor, Nikko Saigon Hotel www.libaisaigon.com 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1

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cuisine is just as eclectic with Hung Ky Mi Gia representative dishes from several Yu Chu An old mainstay on the Chinese Yu Chu is renowned for the quality major Chinese traditions. cuisine trail with well over a decade in and presentation of its authentic 12 Duong 26, D6 operation, Hung Ky Mi Gia is known Cantonese and Peking cuisines along 3755 1577 for its classic mainland dishes with a with its elegant décor. Watching the www.7kyquan.com focus on delicious roasts. Safe and chefs prepare signature dishes such tasty Chinese food. as hand-pulled noodle, Dim Sum and 20 Le Anh Xuan, D1 Shang Palace Peking Duck right in the kitchen is a Renowned as one of the finest 3822 2673 prominent, popular feature. restaurants in the city, Shang Palace 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana boasts mouth-watering Cantonese Saigon, Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Ocean Palace and Hong Kong cuisine served in A place for those who love Chinese Le Duan, D1 a warm and elegant atmosphere. food. The large dining room on the 3520 9099 Whether it be an intimate dinner for ground floor can accommodate up to www.intercontinental.com/saigon two or a larger group event, Shang 280 diners. Up on the first floor are six Palace can cater for three-hundred private rooms and a big ballroom that guests including private VIP rooms. can host 350 guests. With more than fifty Dim-Sum items 2 Le Duan Street, D1 and over two-hundred delectable 3911 8822 dishes to choose from, Shang Palace is an ideal rendezvous for any dining Seven Wonders (Bay Ky Quan) occasion. The brainchild of an overseas 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion Chinese/Vietnamese architect 17-19-21, Ly Tu Trong, D1 who wanted to build something 3823 2221 extraordinary in his home town, this venue combines the architectural features of seven world heritage structures blended into one. The

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66 SEPTEMBER 2016 SPANISH

Olé Tapas Saigon VIVA! Tapas Bar & Grill With all the warmth you’d expect from a decent venue Tasty tapas at Vietnamese prices not far from the center VIVA! Tapas Bar & Grill only uses the freshest in this category, Olé serves authentic and tasty Spanish of District 1. Fresh ingredients, broad menu with food ingredients, many imported from Spain, for the favorites with great tapas and highly-recommended prepared by a Spanish chef. Best washed down with most authentic tapas experience in Saigon, starting paella. Family-run venue with a passion for great food from under VND50,000/plate. Cool décor, indoors authentic house sangria. and outdoors eating areas, a well stocked bar, and and good service without undue fuss. Feel at home. 53/26B Tran Khanh Du, D1 great wines from VND60,000/glass (sangria just 129B Le Thanh Ton, D1 090 930 0803 VND130,000 per HALF liter). Delivery available. 012 6529 1711 90 Cao Trieu Phat, D7

WINE

RubyRed Italian Wine Store Wine Embassy Boutique The only one Italian wine store in Ho Chi Minh City, Established in the heart of Thao Dien since October with over 200 labels of wine from all regions in Italy, 2014, Wine Embassy aims to offer wines for all budgets Nardini grappas, Sambuca Molinari and Marsala, Passiti and from all over the world carefully selected by our and Bellavista Franciacorta (official sponsor of Armani, Resident Sommelier. Zegna, Gucci and La Scala Teatre of Milan). Cozy design 41 Quoc Huong Street, Thao Dien, D2 with friendly staff and professional expert of italian wines managers (Mr. Mirko and Mr. Christian Boarin). 206 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Also Try... lounge that serves breakfast, lunch, drinks An Phu Supermarket and early dinner. Veggy’s Large supermarket stocking a wide range A specialized grocery store carrying 41A Thao Dien. D2. well-known international brands of dry imported products, Veggy’s offers wine, a 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 goods along with fresh groceries, frozen wide range of international food imported meat and fish, fresh fruit and vegetables, from abroad and fresh produce grown in cheese, wine, toiletries and more. The Warehouse Vietnam. A premium wine importer, distributor, 43 Thao Dien, D2 23A le thanh ton, D1 and retailer supplying wines from all over the world, the Warehouse also offers Annam Gourmet spirits, wine accessories, glassware Vinifera An upscale deli and grocery chain offering Established in 2002, Vinifera is one of the and refrigeration to complement their gourmet groceries, cheese, organic most reliable wine distribution companies customers’ choices. products, gluten -free products, fruit and in Vietnam.Offering prestigious wines 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 vegetables, gourmet deli, wine and other from around the world at a a great value. beverages. All locations have a coffee 7 Thai Van Lung, D1

OI VIETNAM 67 FRENCH

Augustin La Creperie L'essentiel Augustin is a romantic and charming French restaurant The first authentic Breton French restaurant in the L’essentiel offers a quiet intimate dining experience with located just steps away from the Rex Hotel. Serves country, serving savory galettes, sweet crepes space for private functions and alfresco dining on an upper lunches and dinners and offers 10 percent discount on a with tasty seafood and some of the best apple cider floor. The food is fresh, traditional French, and the wine list la carte menu items. in Saigon. is carefully collated. 10D Nguyen Thiep, D1 17/7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 98 Ho Tung Mau, D1 www.augustinrestaurant.com 3824 7070 094 841 5646 [email protected] 11am - 11pm

Le Bacoulos Ty Coz Le Bouchon de Saigon Le Bacoulos is a French restaurant, bar and lounge that This unassuming restaurant is located down an Delightful, welcoming French bistro that really puts on serves French cuisine, bar food like burgers, fish and alley and up three flights of stairs. The charming a show of fine quality and service. With its small-village chips alongside vegetarian options like spinach soup French owner/chef will happily run through the atmosphere and exotic cuisine, this is one of the more and Greek salad. There’s also a garden to unwind in entire menu in details and offer his recommendations. atmospheric and high-aiming venues of the genre. with a glass of wine or enjoy a game of pool. An accompanying wine list includes a wide range 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 13 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 of choices. www.lebouchondesaigon.com 3519 4058 178/4 Pasteur, D1 www.bacoulos.com www.tycozsaigon.com

Also Try... La Nicoise Trois Gourmands A traditional ‘neighbourhood’ French restaurant, La Opened in 2004 and regarded as one of the finest La Cuisine Nicoise serves simple, filling French fare at exceptional French restaurants in town. Owner Gils, a French native, A cosy restaurant just outside the main eating strip on value in the shadow of the Bitexco tower. Most popular makes his own cheeses as well. Le Thanh Ton, La Cuisine offers quality French food in for its steak dishes, the restaurant has an extensive 39 Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 an upmarket but not overly expensive setting. Suitable menu which belies its compact size. 3744 4585 for special occasions or business dinners to impress. 56 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Regular diners recommend the filet of beef. 3821 3056 48 Le Thanh Ton 2229 8882 La Villa La Fourchette Housed in a stunning white French villa that was Small and cozy, La Fourchette is a favorite among the originally built as a private house, La Villa features French expat community. The vintage posters and outdoor tables dotted around a swimming pool and a wood paneling add to the charm of this French eatery more formal dining room inside. Superb cuisine, with located right in downtown, a stone’s throw from the staff trained as they Saigon River. would be in France. Bookings are advised, especially 11 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 on Friday and Saturday evenings. 3829 8143 14 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 www.lafourchette.com.vn 3898 2082 www.lavilla-restaurant.com.vn

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68 SEPTEMBER 2016 INDIAN

Ashoka Ganesh Natraj A small chain of slightly more upscale Indian Ganesh serves authentic northern Indian tandooris and Known for its complete North restaurants serving both Northern and Southern Indian rotis along with the hottest curries, dovas and vada from & South Indian cuisine, Natraj’s cuisine including curries, naan and tandooris. the southern region. specialty is its special chaat 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, D1 38 Hai Ba Trung, D1 & tandoori dishes. Parties, 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Thao Dien, D2 www.ganeshindianrestaurant.com events & catering services are available, with Daily Lunch Thali and set menus. Available for delivery. Complete menu on Facebook. 41 Bui Thi Xuan, D1 6679 5267 - 6686 3168 www.facebook.com/natrajindiancuisine

Saigon Indian Tandoor The Punjabi Saigon’s original Indian eatery is still going strong, Tandoor has recently moved to a new location. The Best known for its excellent tandoori cooking executed located in a bright, roomy upstairs venue in the heart of restaurant serves authentic South and North Indian in a specialized, custom-built oven, Punjabi serves the District 1. cuisine, with set lunches available, in a spacious dining best of genuine North Indian cuisine in a venue well 1st Floor, 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 area. Offers free home delivery and outside catering. within the backpacker enclave, ensuring forgiving menu Halal food. prices. 39A – 39B Ngo Duc Ke, D1 40/3 Bui Vien, D1 39304839 / [email protected] ITALIAN

Ciao Bella Inter Nos La Bettola Hearty homestyle Inter Nos means “between us” in Latin. Chef/owner Giuseppe Amorello combines sleek decor Italian food served Food amongst friends is exciting yet with traditional home cooking in this two-story centrally- with flair and excellent sincere. At Inter Nos, their dishes located Italian eatery. Expect creative dishes such as service. An extensive menu is complemented with daily represent the appreciation they have rucola e Gamberi as well as La Bettola that includes specials. Arriving guests are greeted with a free glass towards guests, who they consider shaved porchetta, focaccia and homemade mozzarella. of Prosecco. Diners sit in a cozy setting upstairs or on as family. Many of the ingredients There’s a wood-burning oven on the premises and they the ground floor for people-watching. Big groups should are handmade, from the cheese to the pasta, even the try to hand-make all their ingredients. book in advance. milk is taken directly from the farm. The emphasis is 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 11 Dong Du, D1 on handcrafting special ingredients so that guests can 3914 4402 3822 3329 taste the honesty in the food. www.labettolasaigon.com [email protected] 26 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 www.ciaobellavietnam.com 090 630 1299 [email protected] www.internos.vn Facebook: Internossaigon

La Cucina La Hostaria VIII Re La Cucina has opened on Crescent Promenade in Designed with an intimate atmosphere invoking VIII Re Eight King Italian restaurant is an open space Phu My Hung, with an open-plan kitchen that can something like an Italian town, this venue focuses setting serving grilled dishes, pastas and wood oven accommodate 180 diners. Enjoy top-end dining on traditional ethnic Italian cuisine (rather than the pizzas. Internationally known chef Roberto Mancini featuring the best of Italian cuisine and a wide selection ubiquitous pizza and pasta), creations of the skillful brings his vast experience at five-star hotels to his of imported seafood, prepared from the freshest executive chef – straight out of Venice. The place lights restaurant. ingredients, in a relaxed, rustic atmosphere with a wood- up on romantic Thursday evenings with candlelight and R432 Le Van Thiem, Phu My Hung, D7 fired pizza oven at its heart. light music. Block 07-08 CR1-07, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 5413 7932 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com

Also Try... Casa Italia Pendolasco Pomodoro Filling, hearty Italian fare served with a One of the original Italian eateries in Often unfairly mistaken as a purely tourist smile in the heart of District 1. Authentic Ho Chi Minh City, Pendolasco recently dining destination, Pomodoro offers an pizza and a comprehensive range of reinvented itself with a new chef and extensive range of Italian fare, especially pasta, pork, chicken and beef dishes menu, and spurned a sister eatery in seafood and beef dishes. The dining area offers something for everyone. Located District 2. Set off the street in a peaceful is in a distinctively curved brick ‘tunnel’ a stone’s throw from Ben Thanh garden with indoor and outdoor eating opening into a large room at the rear, Market. areas, separate bar and function area, it making it ideal for couples or groups. 86 Le Loi, D1 offers a wide-ranging Italian menu and 79 Hai Ba Trung 3824 4286 monthly movie nights. 3823 8998 87 Nguyen Hue, D1 Opera 3821 8181 The luxury Park Hyatt Saigon is home to Opera, an authentic Italian dining Pizza 4P’s experience open for breakfast, lunch It’s too late to call this Saigon’s best-kept and dinner. Try their famous lasagna secret: the word is out. Wander up to the and tiramisu. Head chef Marco Torre end of its little hem off Le Thanh Ton for learned his craft in a number of the most unique pizza experience in the Michelin-star restaurants throughout entire country – sublime Italian pizza pies different regions of Italy during a 14 with a Japanese twist. Toppings like you year career. Dine on the deck alfresco wouldn’t imagine and a venue you’ll be or inside in air conditioned comfort. glad you took the time to seek out. 2 Lam Son Square, D1 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, D1 012 0789 4444 www.pizza4ps.com For full review, please visit: www.oivietnam.com

70 SEPTEMBER 2016 JAPANESE

Gyumaru KESERA Cafe Bar Miyama Café Gyumaru is a quintessentially Café Bar KESERA is an ideal space to offer you fresh Miyama Café was born from an ambition to transport minimalist Japanese dining experience meals. We are here cozy and friendly serving specialist a truly modern Tokyo cafe into the midst of bustling rotating around the style of meat meal coffee, Japanese beers, fine wines, freshly baked Saigon. From grand desserts to inspired modern Westerners would be quick to link homemade cakes, bagels and delicious Western and Japanese food and service, Miyama Cafe's minimalist to a gourmet burger, but without the Japanese fusion foods. Live music every Saturday night. space and large glass windows allow diners to views of bread. Fresh, healthy, innovative cuisine in a relaxed, 26/3 Le Thanh Ton ,Dist 1. the bustling city below. They use the finest and freshest cozy environment and regular specials including quality 0838 270 443 ingredients to create beautiful and delicious set meals steaks. and desserts. 8/3 Le Thanh Ton Takashiyama Saigon Centre Mall 3827 1618 Level 3-01 [email protected] (08) 2253 1076 www.miyamacafe.com

Monde Sushi Dining Aoi Yoshino A Japanese whisky bar and grill serving some of the Sushi Dining Aoi is one such restaurant, where the The decor is straight out of the set of Shogun, with best Kobe beef in the city. The menu is Japanese with whole atmosphere of the place evokes the best of black wood, tatami mats, stencilled cherry blossoms a European twist. The venue is celebrity bartender the culture. With its typical Japanese-style decor – the and all the trappings of Japanese exoticism – tastefully Hasegawa Harumasa’s first foray into Vietnam, styled smooth earthen tones of the wooden furniture and done. While Ho Chi Minh City is certainly not short after his flagship operation on Ginza’s fashionable surrounds, the warmth and privacy of the VIP rooms – of fine Japanese eateries, this one is particularly whisky bar district in the heart of Tokyo. it's possible to believe you're in a more elegant realm. impressive. 7 bis Han Thuyen, D1 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D3 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 3930 0039 3823 3333 www.sushidiningaoi.com

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Blanchy Street K Cafe Inspired by London’s world-famous Nobu Restaurant, One of the larger Japanese restaurants in the city, this Blanchy Street’s Japanese/South American fusion exemplary sushi venue is an ideal choice for business cuisine represents modern dining at its best in and friendly gatherings. the heart of downtown, a truly international dining 74A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 experience in a trendy, modern and friendly setting. 3824 5355 Great sake and wine selection. www.yakatabune-saigon.com 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 3823 8793 Osaka Ramen www.blanchystreet.com This sleek, open-kitchen contemporary eatery serves up 11am - 10:30pm Japanese noodles starting from VND78,000. There are also set menus, individual dishes and a range of smaller, Chiisana Hashi appetizing sides. Serves authentic Japanese cuisine including sashimi, SD04, LO H29-2, My Phat Residential sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu. Complex, D7 River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 6683 5308

OI VIETNAM 71 KOREAN

Galbi Brothers Lee Cho Seoul House Superb casual BBQ venue focusing on every foreigner’s The venue may be upscale, but the service and feel of Long-standing venue serving Korean delicacies in this favorite K-dish: galbi. Home of the only all-you-can- this local-style Korean restaurant is very much down-to- city for many years, Seoul House is simple on décor and eat Korean BBQ in Saigon, GB is distinguished by its earth. Enjoy the pleasure of casual outdoor street-style strong on taste. Specializes mainly in Korean hotpot inexpensive lunch sets and unabashed enthusiasm for Korean dining without worrying about the proper and grills. Korean spirits. decorum for an international venue. Great Korean dishes 33 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 R1–25 Hung Phuoc 4, Pham Van Nghi – Bac, D7 at good rates. 3829 4297 5410 6210 48 Hung Phuoc 2, D7 5410 1086

Won’s Cuisine One of the city’s most important Korean venues – not for reasons of authenticity, but rather for straying from the norms. The restaurant’s proprietress has infused so much of her own quirky tastes into the menu she’s completely ignored the conventions of the cuisine, making Won’s a unique creation with an unforgettable taste. 49 Mac Thi Buoi 3820 4085

THAI Koh Thai The Racha Room Supremely chic Thai venue with all the Brand new fine & funky Thai venue with authentic burn you need – or without kooky styling and a great attitude – and if you prefer. An opulent, fashionable some of the most finely-presented decor with the cuisine to match – often signature Thai cuisine you’ll see in reported to serve dishes comparable this city, much of it authentically spicy. with those of Thailand itself. Long Live the King! Reservations Kumho Link, Hai Ba Trung, D1 recommended. 3823 4423 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Lac Thai 090 879 1412 Hidden away down a narrow alley in Tuk Tuk Thai Bistro the heart of downtown this unique Thai Kitch and authentic, Tuk Tuk brings restaurant boasts authentic flavours and the pleasure of street-style Thai food surprising character. Eat downstairs at into an elegant but friendly setting. tables in a cosy, themed environment Now a fashionable venue in its own - or be brave and climb the narrow right, Tuk Tuk’s menu features some spiral staircase to the attic and crouch unique dishes and drinks you won’t see on cushions in true Thai style while elsewhere. attentive staff serve plates to share. 17/11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi St. D1 3521 8513 / 090 688 6180 3823 7506

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72 SEPTEMBER 2016 STEAKHOUSE

Canada Steakhouse ​​Corso Steakhouse & Bar New York Steakhouse We are proud to be the first restaurant to The steakhouse boasts an open kitchen with New York Steakhouse is definitely in the upmarket serve imported Alberta beef in Vietnam. private dining areas. With an extensive wine menu, category and serves exclusive American imported beef Alberta beef is world renowned for its contemporary Western and Asian cuisines and a wide dishes, with a whole range of steaks from rib eye, New tenderness, flavor, and texture. Come try range of sizzling steaks cooked to your liking, this York strip steak and tenderloin being popular options. our steakhouse. You will be amazed! is the ideal choice for a special celebration or formal 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 219C Pham Viet Chanh, D1 business dinner. 6294 8787 Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.canadasteakhouse.com 3829 5368 Facebook: Canadasteakhouse219c www.norfolkhotel.com.vn 10am - 11pm

Nossa Steakhouse Pho 99 Wild Horse Steakhouse A stylish restaurant featuring Italian cuisine and Western Not a traditional steakhouse per se, but Pho 99 is The restaurant offers grilled pork, barbecued chicken steaks with a wide selection of imported steaks from known for its excellent filet mignon steaks made out of and steak dishes along with a wide selection of Australian and the US. Nossa brings food and decor Cu Chi beef. Also serves great pho. cocktails as well as a number of smaller dishes. 8a/1d1 Thai Van Lung, D1 together to create a cozy ambiance. With an attention to 139 Nguyen Trai, D1 S36-1 Bui Bang Doan, D7 www.wildhorsesteakhouse.com bringing authentic flavors, we provide good food, good prices and good taste. 36 Pham Hong Thai, D1 / www.nossa.vn

Baba's Kitchen 164 Bui Vien, District 1 49D Xa Lo Hanoi, District 2 Phone: 083-838-6661 & 083-838-6662 Open 11am to 11pm North & South Indian food Halal & vegetarian dishes Of course we can cater! order online at vietnammm.com & eat.vn "Baba brings India to Vietnam" OI VIETNAM 73 VIETNAMESE

Quan Bui Five Oysters Mountain Retreat Leafy green roof garden, upmarket restaurant with Five Oysters serves authentic Home style cooking from the reasonable prices and a wide menu of choices. Open and excellent Seafood & Vietnamese north in a quiet style kitchen advertises its cleanliness. Designer interior Vietnamese food with draught alley off Le Loi, Mountain with spotlighted artwork and beautiful cushions give an beer at VND10,000 as well as a promo of VND10,000 Retreat brings a rural vibe to oriental luxurious feeling – augmented by dishes served per fresh oyster daily. There’s also a rooftop, a great busy central D1. The breezy and unassuming décor on earthenware crockery. New Quan Bui Garden just place to start or end the night! Recipient of Certificate of nicely contrasts the intense northern flavors ideally opened in District 2. Excellence 2014 from Tripadvisor and Top Choice 2015 suited for the international palate. www.bui.restaurant by Lianorg.com. Recommended by VNexpress.net, Top floor of 36 Le Loi, D1 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Lonely Planet, Utopia and Saigoneers. +84 90 719 45 57 First Floor, 39 Ly Tu Trong, D1 234 Bui Vien, D1 55 Ngo Quang Huy, Thao Dien, D2

Red Door Time Bistro Red Door offers traditional Vietnamese Timebistro – a tiny little food with a contemporary twist. The restaurant is also a restaurant will bring you platform for art talk, science talk, and social talk; where back to Saigon 1960s. Visitors will be impressed by ideas and passions are shared. romatic atmosphere with elegant and simple style which 400/8 Le Van Sy, D3 is close to your heart. 012 0880 5905 44 Nguyen Hue, Ben Nghe, D1 Facebook: Reddoorrestaurant 09 8910 4633 www.en.timebistro.vn

Also Try... fresh beans, nuts, vegetables, flowers, hand-painted wall murals in an authentic Com Nieu and fruits. Food are complemented with propaganda style. Famous for its inclusion in the Anthony special drinks mixed from fresh fruits 21 Han Thuyen, D1 3T Quan Nuong Bourdain No Reservations program, the and vegetables. 3822 9048 Tasty BBQ venue situated above Temple venue is best known for its theatrics. 2 Thi Sach, D1 Bar. The venue has a traditional, rustic Every bowl of rice is served in a 3823 8920 Temple Club theme with old-style furniture and a terracotta bowl that is unceremoniously www.hum-vegetarian.vn Named after the old-style Chinese quaint Vietnamese decor, making this a shattered upon serving. Unforgettable temple in which the venue is located, nicely atmospheric restaurant and a great local food in a very pleasant traditionally- May the ancient stylings of this impressive place to dine with international friends styled venue. Fine Vietnamese fare served in a restaurant make for an unforgettable new to the cuisine. The menu features a 59 Ho Xuan Huong, D3 character-filled three-story rustic villa evening spent somewhere in Saigon’s number of local favorites. 3932 6363 located up a narrow alley, off the beaten colonial past. Beautiful oriental art that Top Floor, 29 Ton That Hiep, D1 [email protected] track. Watch the chefs prepare authentic will please all diners and great local 3821 1631 comnieusaigon.com.vn food from a varied menu in an open cuisine. kitchen. 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Banh Xeo 46A Cuc Gach Quan 19-21 Dong Khoi, D1 3829 9244 Fun Vietnamese-style creperie popular Deservedly one of the highest ranking 3910 1277 templeclub.com.vn with locals and expats alike for its tasty, Vietnamese restaurants in Saigon on healthy prawn pancakes, along with a Trip Advisor, this delightful restaurant Nha Hang Ngon Thanh Nien number of other traditional dishes. serves up traditional, country-style foods Possibly the best-known Vietnamese A favorite with tourists and locals for 46A Dinh Cong Trang, D1 and contemporary alternatives in two restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City, Nha many years, Thanh Nien behind the character-filled wooden houses located Hang Ngon serves up hundreds of Diamond Plaza is a buffet in a home Cha Ca La Vong on opposite sides of the street from each traditional local dishes in a classy setting, with a-la-carte dining available If you do only one thing, you'd better do it other. Unique food in a unique setting and French-style mansion. in the leafy garden outdoors. Relaxing, well – and this venue does precisely that, an unbelievably large menu. 160 Pasteur, D1 beautiful place to eat. serving only traditional Hanoian Cha Ca 10 Dang Tat, D1 3827 7131 11 Nguyen Van Chiem, D1 salads stir-fried with fish and spring onion. 3848 0144 www.quananngon.com.vn 3822 5909 Delicious. 8am - 10pm 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 Hum Propaganda Bistro Hum is a vegetarian restaurant where Spring rolls and Vietnamese street food food are prepared on site from various with a Western twist. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The restaurant features For full review, please visit: www.oivietnam.com

74 SEPTEMBER 2016 INTERNATIONAL

Bamboo Chic BoatHouse Cuba la Casa del Mojito Bamboo Chic serves an inventive With amazing views of the Bienvenido a Cuba, The first Cuban Bar, Restaurant menu of Japanese and Chinese Saigon River, the restaurant's & Lounge! Come enjoy some fine Cuban Cuisine, dishes and creative cocktails. Open for dinner, the open seating plan is the ideal Authentic Mojitos and flavorful ​​Cigars! Music and contemporary space features modern velvet chairs Ambience will transport you to the Old Havana where space for business lunches, Salsa never ends. with purple and plum pillows and dramatic beaded romantic dinners and lazy chandeliers inspired by the Saigon River along with live 91 Pasteur, D1 weekend brunches. The menu is international with music from the house DJ. 3822 7099 Level 9, Le Méridien Saigon Hotel focuses on Mexican and American comfort food. There's 3C Ton Duc Thang, D1 live music almost every night of the week. 6263 6688 40 Lily Road, APSC, 36 Thao Dien, D2 www.lemeridien.com/saigon [email protected] +84 8 3744 6790 www.boathousesaigon.com www.facebook.com/boathousevietnam

Eleven Latest Recipe Ngon Asia House Eleven is located in the center of town, a 5- minute walk Latest Recipe invites diners to an Contemporary three-storey from Ben Thanh Market.The Restaurant has a stylish international culinary experience bistro that welcomes you with vintage design with a friendly and cozy amosphere . set against views of the Saigon River. An open kitchen style and leads you into a house The Asian fusion menu combines Asian & Eropean is the focal point of this contemporary space, with chefs of sumptuous colorful food vegetables and spices, providing a unique and preparing an array of dishes to order. Every Sunday cultures, rich in both in flavors unforgettable experience. Latest Recipe serves an elaborate brunch buffet filled and inspirations. More than 29 Le Anh Xuan, D1 with tantalizing dishes from around the world. 350 savory street dishes from Level M, Le Méridien Saigon Hotel 08 38222605 Korea, Japan, China, Thailand 3C Ton Duc Thang, D1 Mail : [email protected] and Vietnam come together in 6263 6688 one designer space. The drinks Facbook : ElevenCafeVN www.lemeridien.com/saigon menu includes a great selection of wine, cocktails and Website : www.eleven.com.vn smoothies. If you can, grab a table by the tall glass windows overlooking the Nguyen Hue Pedestrian Walkway – a great spot for people watching. Facebook: "ngonasia" / www.ngon-asia.com 2nd - 4th Floors, Saigon Garden 99 Nguyen Hue, D1 08 3821 3821

Rose Garden twenty21one Villa Royale Treasures With it's main focus on Vietnamese cuisine, Rose A new casual dining venue with an innovative Villa Royale specializes in antiques from Europe and Garden also has an extensive international menu that Asia. Enjoy lunch or high tea while surrounded by includes pastas, sandwiches and wraps. Located with tapas menu divided into two categories: Looking treasures from around the world. Specializing in over 40 the backpacker district, the restaurant is a great spot flavors of luxurious TWG tea. for people watching and soaking up the city's vibrant East, and Looking West, with dishes such as Crispy shredded duck spring rolls and Bacon-wrapped dates 3 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 atmosphere. The freshly made juices come highly www.villaroyaletreasures.com recommended. stuffed with Roquefort blue cheese There are two 232 Bui Vien, D1 dining levels: an upstairs mezzanine and downstairs (08) 6680 0847 are tables with both private and exposed positioning Facebook: RoseGardenSaigon (open-air streetside; and a terrace by the pool out back). 21 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3

OI VIETNAM 75 Travel&Leisure VUNG TAU

76 SEPTEMBER 2016 IMAGE BY NGOC TRAN A Seaside Escape Beyond the oil rigs and tourist traps, there’s another side of Vung Tau worth exploring TAYNE EPHRAIM Text by NGOC TRAN Images by

VUNG TAU is a place I’d brushed alternatively, there is the refurbished out to sea. Some of these roads, however, over in the past and mentally scratched hydrofoil service departing daily from are military, as we unwittingly discover, off the list. So when asked to return and Bach Dang pier in District 1. following one into the back door of a give it another try, mid monsoon, I take I pack my camera and some books small military base with squat French- it as a chance to dig a little deeper and into my trusty satchel and head out of built bunkers cut into the face of the see what the city has to offer beyond a the big smoke (Saigon) to the beach. The face. Only as I’m about to dismount for a long strip of beach and a giant hollow minivan drops us off on the main beach photo opportunity do I realize my error, Jesus. And as it turns out: quite the bag strip and we waste no time in acquiring quickly backing out and away before of little delights, for those willing to go some wheels, renting a scooter from a alerting any personnel to our unwanted the extra mile. hotel in town and zipping out to explore presence. For the unfamiliar, Vung Tau, the peninsula’s lesser-known sights. Getting our bearings back, we somewhat like Italy (albeit on a much Beyond the hotel-lined beachfront head out for the lighthouse on Little smaller scale) juts out into the ocean and seaside restaurant strips the forested Mountain for some winning views over like a strangely shaped boot. At the hills of Vung Tau are honeycombed with sea and city. While nothing remarkable, foot of this boot lie two mountains, gorgeous little roads that snake their it’s a curious edifice, a stubby cylinder on Little Mountain (at the heel), and Big way across the promontory hills, leading the mountain top with the odd spectacle Mountain (at the toes). It’s a two-hour to old fortifications, shrines, grottos, and of birdsong recordings playing out of or so drive from downtown Saigon, with a lighthouse. The French put a battery loudspeakers at an amplified volume the newly built Long Thanh expressway atop each of Vung Tau’s mountains, and in the effort to attract the real thing. slicing a good hour off the old time. Or, the cannons are still there today, pointed Go figure. The views afforded from this

78 SEPTEMBER 2016 vantage point over the long finger of rollercoaster, comes complete with its coastline and brightly-colored houses own cable car to ferry up holidaymakers of the town nestled below make it well from Tran Phu Street below. Needless to worth the effort. Also of note are the old say, things change fast, awfully fast, in French fortifications and an overgrown Vietnam. Even in little Vung Tau. bunker, just down a set of steps from the lighthouse and its viewing platform. The See Food hilly topography at the tip of Vung Tau’s Another neglected gem offering scenic peninsula is teeming with such relics views is Doi Con Heo, or Pig Hill. and they make for an intriguing addition Located on a rocky outcrop above the to the city’s attractions. shell of an abandoned hotel project, Years back I’d road tripped out this secluded little spot overlooks Hon to Vung Tau with some friends. We’d Ba Island and offers beautiful photo found the trail that winds its way across opportunities. We reach it by small the top of Big Mountain and followed lane which winds its way up, passing by it to a bombed out radar installation, clucking chooks and curious children a relic from the war. But where once with monk-styled hairdos. Perched right stood only weeds and twisted steel, a above the city, the hill’s barren rockiness kitsch waterpark has sprung up. Mo makes it feel like a world away from the May, or Sky Park, which also includes bustle below, and an ideal camping spot on its premises a zoo, a zip line and a for the more adventurous.

OI VIETNAM 79 GREAT ESCAPES: VUNG TAU

Hon Ba Island is perhaps the as delightful, owing in no small most curious sight in Vung Tau. measure to its thriving expat This mysterious little outcrop of community, with highlights such land (technically an islet) is linked as the popular David Pizzeria and by a natural land bridge to the coast, stellar Bistro 9 worth making the accessible only when the tide is low trip for alone. enough to reveal it, which is about We venture on to the very tip of once a month. The temple crowning the peninsula, Mui Nghinh Phong, the islet’s tip was built back in the Cape of the Greeting Wind, and 18th century to appease the goddess wander up to the top of its little of the sea and bring good fortune to hill. Looking back, a small cove is the fishermen. It was also a French revealed, tucked away in the fold fort for some time, the remnants of of the cape; a hidden beach, devoid which can still be seen. When the of the tourist traffic, and a pleasant tide goes out long lines of pilgrims surprise. A little stairway leads clamber their way over the sharp down to the beach. An abandoned rocks and oysters to pay their restaurant hangs above and adds an respects. eerie, forgotten atmosphere to the Other than being a weekend place. There is a small yellow shrine playground and easy-to-reach to the ocean nestled in amongst the beach getaway from the big smoke, rocks. I watch its keeper lighting Vung Tau has much to offer the sticks of incense before stripping budding foodie also. Our appetites down to his jocks and wading into kick in and we go in search of the the surf for his afternoon swim. A local specialty, banh khot, a grilled local woman collects limpets and rice pancake topped with shrimp, oysters with her pants rolled up squid and chopped scallions. We to her knees. A swimming monk find ourselves on Hoang Hoa and a smiling lady move about the Tham Street, somewhat of a rocks—these are timeless images. central hotspot for the dish with It’s a magical little spot, with the no shortage of offerings to choose sun getting low on the horizon, and from, just as another squall moves one that I hope remains that way, a in over the city. The Western food sanctuary from the feverish rate of offerings in Vung Tau are equally development.

80 SEPTEMBER 2016 ADVERTORIAL Oasis Living in Nha Trang

UMA CONDOTEL Text and Images Provided by

NHA TRANG is a well-known to the river with wonderful mountain restaurants and even a private bus to seaside resort with a huge potential for scenery, then Uma Condotel is the take you directly to the beach. Uma tourism. It is not an exaggeration to perfect option for you. Uma Condotel Condotel – Cham Oasis will provide a say that nature has blessed Nha Trang is in a perfect location, connected to well-aired green space, which will bring with a beautiful landscape. After many the mainland by a bridge and principal wonderful relaxation to you and help years of development, Nha Trang is now roads heading directly to center of the balance your life and get your energy a dynamic city, brimming with vitality city, shopping areas and entertainment back. and newly widened roads and fantastic venues. In common with all the Nha Trang is quickly developing resorts. Many enterprises in Nha Trang comforts available on Champa Island, and will soon become one of the most are giving opportunities for those who such as excellent eating and drinking modern cities in Vietnam thanks to love all the excitement of a beach city to establishments, and all the best in contributions from many enterprises truly enjoy a modern lifestyle and live in health treatments and relaxation; Uma such as Uma Condotel and Kubera high-grade apartments, condos or villas. Condotel is gradually completing its Condotel. We hope you will join us to When talking about Nha Trang, entertainment areas, including a central enhance the development and future many think of the deep-blue sea with park, jogging paths around the island, prosperity in tourism of Nha Trang and banks of white sand. However, few a swimming pool, a gymnasium, a Vietnam. people know that the Cai River, which mini-mart, secured basement parking, Visit chamoasis.vn for more info flows into Nha Trang’s bay, is also full of poetics and charm. The Cham Oasis is incredibly lucky to be located in such a strategic position, where the Cai River directly flows into the sea of Nha Trang. It also benefits from being on one of two beautiful islands at the center of Nha Trang, contributing to the prosperity of the entire area. Travelers can easily make their way to Tran Phu Street and a variety of other attractions such as Cham Oasis, Ponaga Temple and the Stone Cathedral. Cham Oasis boasts high-class villas and apartments named “Uma Condotel” and “Kubera Condotel,” and have the first five-star villas close to the very heart of Nha Trang. Although Uma Condotel is already welcoming guests, Kubera Condotel is still being completed and will be open for business soon. If you are looking for a quiet space to live with modern security, situated next

OI VIETNAM 81 SPA REVIEW

Underwater For a new wave of Relaxation wellness-seeking pleasure, lay back and enjoy SONIA GREGOR NGOC TRAN Exploration Text by Images by

THE NEW EXPLORE SPA at curved boat-like desk. On the desk were my treatment, after the sea salt scrub. Le Méridien Saigon (9th Floor, 3C Ton mysterious bottles, salts and oils for Then my masseuse appeared and I was Duc Thang, D1) is an oceanic delight different spa treatments. I was offered whisked away to my own private massage for the senses. When the elevator doors a perfumed cup of iced tea, and asked chamber. The lights were dim, ethereal opened, I found myself in a large room to choose between several samples of music played and a small diffuser gave of iridescent tiles. Wooden arches massage oils. I chose the one called the room an enchanting smell. I was floating in midair beckoned me forward, Breathe, for its light herbal scent. This given a bathrobe and slippers to change over a small bridge, and to a seat at a would be used during the second half of into in private.

82 SEPTEMBER 2016 Having stepped out of my dirty turned on, and I leisurely washed the spa offers facials, massages and a range Saigon street shoes, I was thrilled to salty mixture from my body. of sea-inspired spa treatments. With a start the treatment with a rejuvenating The massages at Explore Spa are a Jacuzzi, sauna and steam room to help foot soak. Warm water filled with slices unique blend of Swedish and Eastern you unwind, this is truly the place to of citrus and lemongrass welcomed my traditions. They use natural essential oils escape. weary soles. As I breathed in these spicy to heal and remove toxins from the skin. The Explore Spa is a great space Vietnamese herbs, my whole body began At the start of my massage, I was asked to socialize, in addition to pampering to relax. Next my feet were scrubbed what level of pressure I preferred. You yourself. Beside the indoor pool is the with cinnamon-scented sea salt and can opt for a very deep tissue massage, Explore Bistro that serves up health- pumice stone. Newly clean and sweet- but I chose something less intense. My conscious fare like wraps and smoothies. smelling, my feet were toweled dry and massage began with strong pressure on They also offer sparkling cocktails, placed back in their slippers. targeted points along the spine, causing perfect for a spa day with friends. Group I lay down on the massage table, and my back to crack and relax. Then it bookings at the spa are encouraged, and a deliciously warm mixture of oil and changed into longer strokes that slowly there is a double massage room if you sea salt was smoothed onto my back. I wore away my tight muscles. A lavender would like to share the experience with had heard that this unique Le Méridien eye pillow relaxed my face while my legs someone. Whatever your needs, there is scrub contained not just sea salt, but and arms were kneaded and stretched. a treatment for you: detox, anti-cellulite extracts of pearl and algae as well, Finally, my favorite part, the head and and anti-aging therapies are all offered. imbuing it with all sorts of powerful face massage, stimulating my scalp and I’m especially eager to try the Four Hand oceanic health benefits. The circular softening the muscles along my jaw. Choreography, a 75-minute massage strokes of scrubbing moved in waves After being salted, scrubbed, with two therapists working in sync. along my back, not painful, like small perfumed and stretched, I awakened flashes of light going off. I was reminded from this dream-like realm, amazed to To celebrate their new opening, Explore of bioluminescent tides on the beach, find that only 90 minutes had passed. Spa is currently offering 30 percent when every wave flickers blue lights as I felt like I had journeyed to a kingdom off on the Underwater Spa Package it breaks on the shore. When I walked beneath the sea, and returned younger (90 minutes of a blissful foot soak, salt into the Explore Spa, my skin had been than when I left. My body was utterly scrub and massage) that I experienced, peeling from sunburn during a trip to relaxed and awake, shining and fresh. making it VND1,176,000++. If you Vung Tau, but soon that dead skin was I was offered a reviving cup of ginger hurry to Le Méridien Saigon (www. a distant memory. Once I had been tea. As I sipped, I listened to the happy lemeridiensaigon.com), they’ll scrubbed all over, legs and arms, a rain sounds of children playing in the pool help you forget about hurrying shower in the adjoining bathroom was next door. The calming, shimmering for the rest of the day.

OI VIETNAM 83 Darjeeling Images by JIMMY VAN DER KLOET

Chowrasta, Darjeeling’s main square, is where the town’s major roads converge, offering stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. From there you can walk to the Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park, the largest high altitude zoo in India. Walking a few kilometers further you can visit the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, featuring a telescope given by Hitler to the Commander-in-chief of the Royal Nepal Army in 1937.

84 SEPTEMBER 2016 OI VIETNAM 85 The train station is home to the “Toy Train,” a vintage British-built B Class steam locomotive dating from 1881.

86 SEPTEMBER 2016 Darjeeling train station is the last on the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway. A narrow gauge runs from New Jalpaiguri, climbing 2,100 meters over 78 kilometers.

OI VIETNAM 87 The List Travel

Ana Mandara Villas | Dalat Boutique Hoi An Resort Cham Villas - Boutique Luxury Resort vv Villas Dalat comprises 17 restored French- Explore the rich heritage of Hoi An at Boutique Hoi An Best resort in Mui Ne. Located right by the beach in one style villas from the 1920s and 1930s, preserving the Resort. Discover authentic Vietnamese cuisine and hectare of lush tropical gardens, this 18 villa property is original design, décor and charm; and set in the cool hospitality, unwind in the swimming pool surrounded ideal to get away from the hustle and bustle, to chill out and be pampered. Each villa has a bath overlooking a climate of the rural highlands of Central Vietnam. by lush tropical gardens or indulge in a massage at our private garden and a large private patio with comfortable Striking views of the surrounding town and countryside hotel spa. Our villas are directly on the beach facing the abound from all areas of the gently sloping hillside club chairs and a day bed. Two restaurants provide sea with large terraces for the ultimate in privacy and property. Some of the villas have been converted into culinary pleasures to round up a perfect holiday. 65 guest accommodations, with each villa comprising relaxation. 32 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Phan Thiet between three and five ensuited rooms. 34 Lac Long Quan, Cam An, Hoi An +84 62 3741 234 www.anamandara-resort.com +84 (0)510 3939 111 www.chamvillas.com www.boutiquehoianresort.com

Cham Garden Restaurant InterContinental Nha Trang Mia Cham Garden Restaurant is located inside Cham Villas InterContinental Nha Trang is a luxurious modern With its own private white sand beach, cliff-top ocean Boutique Luxury Resort. Set in the midst of a lush beachfront hotel where an enriching urban retreat views and jungle clad mountains as a backdrop, Mia tropical garden, this cozy and quiet restaurant serves harmonized beautifully with its surroundings. Right in resort has carved out its own little piece of tropical Asian Fusion, Vietnamese and Western Cuisine. The the heart of Nha Trang, a 40-minute scenic drive from heaven in Nha Trang. Mia features a variety of ideal place for a romantic and exquisite dinner. Cam Ranh International Airport, experience the perfect accommodation options, each with fantastic ocean 32 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Phan Thiet blend of local charm and nature. views, nestled among manicured gardens. There are +84 62 3741 234 32 - 34 Tran Phu, Nha Trang great dining options, a relaxing spa and gym. www.chamvillas.com (058) 388 7777 Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa www.facebook.com/chamgardenmuine www.nhatrang.intercontinental.com 0583 989 666 www.mianhatrang.com [email protected]

Pullman Danang Beach Resort Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa The Island Lodge Located on the stunning white sands of Danang beach, With 280 ocean view rooms and suites and six Newly-opened, The Island Lodge is a 12-room the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of signature restaurants and bars, including Altitude – the Indochine-themed lodge set on Unicorn Island activities and facilities for the modern traveler. With an highest bar in Nha Trang. Amenities include outdoor (Thoi Son). Mekong River view rooms and bungalows idyllic setting on the silver shores of Central Vietnam, are scattered around the grounds, but the jewel is this luxury resort is perfect for a family holiday or swimming pool with infinity edge and reflection pool romantic beach getaway. area, Shine Spa with 9 luxurioxus treatment rooms, the open air restaurant/lounge fronting 50 meters of Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Sheraton Fitness with 24-hour access, Sheraton Club riverfront along with a French restaurant. There’s also 0511 395 8888 Lounge, Link@Sheraton, Sheraton Adventure Club, and an infinity swimming pool and Jacuzzi. www.pullman-danang.com a purpose-built Cooking School. 390 Ap Thoi Binh, Thoi Son, My Tho 26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa 073 651 9000 058 2220 000 www.theislandlodge.com.vn www.sheratonnhatrang.com For full review, please visit: www.oivietnam.com 88 SEPTEMBER 2016 The List Health& Beauty DENTAL SKIN CLINIC Also try ...

2000 Dental Clinic Trung Tam Implant Established in 1999, 2000 Dental Clinic now has 65 dentists serving 3 locations offering the full range of dental care, including surgery, implants and extractions. 125 Le Thi Rieng, D1 Dr. Hung & Associates Dental Center Elite Dental Group A centrally located dental Elite Dental is an international and well-equipped clinic center that uses the latest that provides a wide range of dental services including modern equipment with a general dentistry, cosmetic dentistry, Implant, pediatric dentistry and orthodontics. Luxury design and their team of skilled specialists. dental experts will bring you an extremely comfortable Services include cosmetic, experience. Stamford Skin Centre implant, braces, prosthodontics, pedodontics and 57A Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Stamford Skin Centre is a Laser Dermatology Clinic more. Expect high quality service at a developed by Stamford Healthcare Ltd. We never cease reasonable price. to improve our quality of medical care. Building 244A Cong Quynh, D1 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Dist. 1, HCMC 08 3925 7526 (08) 3925 1990 or 0908 453 338 08 3925 7527 www.stamfordskin.com [email protected] www.nhakhoadrhung.com

SPA

Aveda Herbal Spa & Wellness Maison Mikio Boutique Salon Moc Huong Spa Aveda is an authentic Indian spa specializing in District 7’s Premium Boutique Salon. Two floors Moc Huong Spa is supported by top-ranking Ayurvedic and herbal treatments for revitalizing the providing full beauty services nestled in a quiet professional physiotherapists who combine Eastern body and soul in a clean, professional ambiance. Meet residential area in Phu My Hung’s Garden Plaza 2 with Western techniques resulting a full body wellness. qualified Panchkarma specialist to know your health Complex. Equipped with a café, nail bar, 2 VIP rooms, Reasonably priced with a wide range of services that history and body constitution through Ayurvedic and a spacious massage room - this boutique salon is include manicure, pedicure, facial, both body and for theories.Their Panchkarma expert will advise the best like no other in Ho Chi Minh City. your complete well being. treatments, dietary and lifestyle plan based on your Garden Plaza 2 Complex 9C Ton Duc Thang ,Dist 1 prakirti (body constitution). 8 Ton Dat Tien, D7 0839 117 118 Villa 1, Hem 21 (21/1) Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2, 5412 4773 2A Chu Manh Trinh ,Dist 1 www.avedaherbal.com 0838 247 433 (08)3519 4679 / 090 697 7110 [email protected] Facebook: avedaherbal/avedasaigon Also try ... Orient Skincare & Laser Center Sweet Spa Villa Aesthetica Cosmedi Spa & Laser Center The center offers non-surgery aesthetic treatments by The spa is intimate and beautifully decorated. The staff One of HCMC’s finest newly-established spa certified dermatologists as well as pampering services consists of both highly-skilled men and women. Serving and beauty centers, Villa Aesthetica is the only for any type of problem skin. A variety of treatments you from hand to toe to give real spiritual and physical venue in Vietnam to offer premium-class​ LPG includes: wrinkle removal, acne & scar treatment, relaxation. As well as sport injury therapies. After hours Endermologie treatments, erasing localized fat and rejuvenation & pigment augmenting treatment, slimming of meetings or full days of working, treat yourself to a imperfections. Also known for their unique Turkish treatments, permanent hair removal and massage relaxing massage or soothing reflexotherapy. Hammam massage. therapy. 204B/12 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 54 Ngo Quang Huy, Thao Dien, D2 244A Cong Quynh, D1 www.sweetspa.vn 6264 3388 3926 0561-62-63-64 Temple Leaf Spa www.villaaesthetica.com Saigon Dep Clinic and Spa Temple Leaf is located in the heart of District 1, and is YCK Beauty Spa and Hair Studio Saigon Dep offers cosmetic, acne and pigmentation staffed by a multinational team of skilled masseurs. The spa offers full relaxation massages, as well as treatments, as well as scar and rejuvenation services, In addition to foot and full body massages, Temple cosmetic care such as firming and collagen treatments. alongside a full reflexology suite. Leaf also offers cleansing green tea facial care and YCK Beauty also offers hair coloring and styling in a 90 Le Lai, D1 moisturizing masks. relaxing ambience. www.saigondep.net 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 178B Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.templeleafspa.com www.ykcspa.com

OI VIETNAM 89 The List Business INSURANCE Also try ... ACE Life Insurance IF Consulting McLarens Young International One of the world’s largest IF Consulting has for 20 years McLarens Young International is a multiline property and casualty provided advice to individuals and global claims service provider that insurers, insurance products businesses in assessing health/ helps our clients achieve timely include universal life insurance, accident risk and finding the best and equitable claims resolution. term life, whole life, riders, and suitable solution. The company is 9th Floor, Yoco Building global personal accident. independent and Vietnam-based. 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 21st Floor, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 90-92 Dinh Tien Hoang D1 3821 3316 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Baoviet Insurance Corporation Prudential Vietnam BaoViet is now the leading Liberty Mutual Insurance Prudential Vietnam is one of the financial insurance group in Liberty Mutual is a 100% US- leading life insurers nationwide, Vietnam with more owned general insurer licensed to also providing a variety of financial Pacific Cross Vietnam (formerly Blue Cross Vietnam) than 145 branches across 63 provide insurance services directly solutions, with over 200 customer Pacific Cross Vietnam provinces. to Vietnamese individuals and service centers, branch offices is a Medical Insurance 23-25 Thai Van Lung, D1 state-owned enterprises as well as and general agency and business Administrator specializing in motor insurance. partner offices. Health and Travel insurance 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre in Asia. Our competitive advantage is in our design and 39 Le Duan, D1 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 administration of modern travel and medical insurance 3812 5125 plans; plans built for people living and working in Vietnam. 4th Floor, Continental Tower, 81 - 83 - 85 Ham Nghi, D1 3821 9908 RELOCATION Also try ... AGS Four Winds (Vietnam) Global leader in international removals & relocations, with 128 offices in 78 countries, they can move you to/ or from any location worldwide. 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, D1 3521 0071 [email protected] www.agsfourwinds.com Crown Line Crown Line is a well-known Japanese moving firm now operating out of Ho Chi Minh City. SEAL Logistics 7th Floor, HPL Bldg Saigon Express Agency 60 Nguyen Van Thu, D1 Limited (SEAL) is an experienced and versatile relocations and logistics company. SEAL staff are experts in relocations and pet transportation and can deliver all your logistics requirements to your satisfaction at a competitive price! +84 8 39432853 [email protected] www.seal.com.vn VETERINARY CLINICS Animal Doctors International Offers the very highest levels of compassionate, New Pet Hospital & Spa competent and professional veterinary medicine and The clinic has two locations and offers boarding, 24- surgery to all pets in Ho Chi Minh City with international hour emergency care and grooming services such as veterinary surgeons. Upholding international standards, washing and nail trimming. the team works tirelessly to help clients with the 53 Dang Dung, D1 support of a dedicated surgical suite, digital X-Ray and www.newpethospital.com.vn comprehensive diagnostic facilities. 6269 3939 1 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 6260 3980 Saigon Pet Clinic www.animaldoctors.vn Founded in 2008, Saigon Pet Clinic’s goal is to open the best animal welfare veterinary clinic in Vietnam. K9 They combine skill and technology to ensure your pet A Vietnamese clinic that offers basic care. gets the best possible care. 192 Hoang Dieu, D4 33, 41 street, Thao Dien, D2 www.phongkhamthuyk9.com www.saigonpethospital.com 091 382 0812 3519 4182 AEC Pet Sasaki Animal Hospital Opened since 2012, the clinic staffs a team of The hospital is managed by a team of skilled doctors specialized veterinarians who are committed to offering from Japan and Vietnam. Services include grooming professional, caring and personalized services to their and general care. patients. 38-40-42 Nguyen Thi Thap, A12-A13 Nguyen Huu Tho, Him Lam, D7 Kim Son Project, D7 www.sasakihospital.com 6298 9203 2253 1179

90 SEPTEMBER 2016 Kids&Education

OI VIETNAM 91 FEATURE

Education Evaluation

A look at Vietnam’s growing options of international schools TEXT BY SAMI YOSEF

THE LOCAL REAL ESTATE leading city in Vietnam for international Vietnamese government on the number MARKET has been in a sort of “hon- schools, it is also one of the top of local children who can attend. eymoon” phase when it comes to foreign cities in the world for its selection of At these schools, enrolment of local investors, as the state allowed foreigners international schools, with a current children is capped at a maximum of 10 to purchase property for the first time in total of 64. Hanoi is the only other percent of the total student population July 2015. The fact that you see so many major city in Vietnam offering a for primary schools, and 20 percent for new projects showing up around the city significant range of international school secondary schools. There is speculation obviously shows that local developers options, with 32 schools. that these caps for local children may are expecting foreigners, and obviously Although originally established for be removed or relaxed in the future, locals, to pounce on their new supply of expats, it is no longer just these families but the government is yet to release any developments. who are today enrolling at Vietnam’s statement confirming this. As foreign investment in Vietnam international schools. An increasing There are no restrictions, however, expands and the country offers an number of local parents are now seeking at the locally-owned international increasingly favorable alternative them out over local schools because and bilingual schools where up to to China for many multinational international school students stand 100 percent of the students can be companies, so Vietnam is attracting a much higher chance of obtaining a Vietnamese. These schools do have more expat families and with it, a place at a reputable Western university to comply to certain government growing number of English-medium and, with it, a passport to good career requirements, including teaching international schools. opportunities and success both abroad Vietnamese culture and the Vietnamese These are schools for children and back home. language. Needless to say, this offers a between 3 and 18 years old, where As well as graduating from these particularly appealing solution for local learning takes place in English and schools with globally-recognized families, providing children with an typically follow a Western approach, qualifications, international school education that combines internationally- with globally-recognized qualifications students study all, or the majority, recognized curricula and examinations and good standards of teaching and of their subjects in English, ensuing with local cultural identity. learning. International schools in they develop a very high competence As a result of the lack of enrolment Vietnam vary in their size, orientation, of the language. They are also restrictions for locally-owned bilingual facilities, fees and demographics; educated in a way that prepares and international schools, many such attracting both Western and Asian them for the independent learning establishments have opened recently in expats, as well as an increasing number approach demanded by the world’s Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi to respond of children from local families. leading universities. With increasing to the growing demand from Vietnamese The International School competition for placements on families. Although some are achieving Consultancy (ISC Research), which university degree courses, particularly very high standards of teaching and tracks information on the world’s those in Britain, the US and Canada, learning, not all Vietnamese-owned international schools, lists 109 it is this combination of qualifications, international schools meet the standards international schools in Vietnam for skills and language ability that sets the that many parents expect. Accreditation pre-school, primary or secondary students apart. helps to identify reputable schools, and students. Most of them are either parents considering the Vietnamese- British or American-oriented in the owned international schools may want curriculum and qualifications they offer. Meeting Demands to look for schools that have achieved Ten of Vietnam’s international schools However, options for local families at WASC (Western Association of Schools offer students the chance to study international schools in Vietnam are and Colleges) or NEASC (New England the International Baccalaureate (IB), limited. Some international schools— Association of Schools and Colleges) working toward the IB Diploma. those that are 100 percent foreign- accreditation to guide them in their Ho Chi Minh City is not only the owned—have restrictions set by the choice.

92 SEPTEMBER 2016 The high density of international Middle Years Curriculum (IMYC). These schools in Ho Chi Minh City means that Learning Environment internationally-oriented curricula, the international schools have to remain Think about the learning environment which are relevant for all children in all competitive in the quality and range of you want for your child. With increasing countries wherever they are living and their education provision. Most of the school options available, you need learning, can be a badge of quality for an leading schools for educational standards to decide your priorities. These can international school and often suggest a are close to capacity or have waiting lists include the size of the school, student strong focus on the learning needs of all and are much in demand by both expats demographics, the learning resources children. and wealthier Vietnamese families. available in the classrooms, the number Also investigate the exam The potential lifting of local enrolment of native English-speaking teachers qualifications that a school offers. Some restrictions at many of these schools and school leaders on staff, the type of international schools take British GCSEs will be very good news for local families curriculum, the learning approach, sports and A levels, others study towards resulting in greater choice and more or arts facilities, proximity to your home, American High School Diplomas, and opportunities. support for special education needs others take more international-oriented Association membership and including gifted and talented children if exams such as the IGCSE or the IB accreditation are two ways of identifying necessary, and so on. Diploma. reputable schools. The leading Think about the curriculum that The curriculum your child will international school associations in you want your child to be learning. follow and the qualifications they can Vietnam include COBIS (the Council of Sometimes schools will deliver a national achieve may impact the higher education British International Schools), EARCOS curriculum (such as the National opportunities available to them. (East Asia Regional Council of Schools) Curriculum of England) but provide and FOBISIA (Federation of British a more international focus to make it Sami Yosef is the Southeast Asia International Schools in Asia). They have relevant for all children in the school. Consultant at The International School codes of practice that schools need to Children do benefit from learning within Consultancy. He is based in Bangkok and maintain. the context of the country they are surveys and interviews international Another good way to judge an living in as well as from an international schools throughout the region including international school is its accreditation. perspective. those in Vietnam, collecting data and Look for registered, accredited There are also a number of respected intelligence on the market. Much of this international schools. Some schools may international curricula now offered in research is used by the schools to support say they are in the process of applying many international schools including the expansion and new development. Sami for accreditation. In a situation like this, International Baccalaureate (IB) which is one of a team of regional research it’s worth investigating how long that has programs for all ages (PYP, MYP and consultants based around the world. has been going on for. No accreditation Diploma), or the International Primary More information is available at process should take more than two years. Curriculum (IPC) and International www.iscresearch.com

OI VIETNAM 93 While English is the main language at school, students in all grades are highly encouraged to learn additional languages such as German, French (from 3 years old), Spanish and Vietnamese (from 6 years old). Leveraging Languages

Is translanguaging the answer to 21st century multilingual classrooms?

TEXT BY NPD KHANH IMAGES PROVIDED BY EIS

IT IS HARD TO ARGUE tional schools. In recent years, however, better conceptual learning and overall against the importance of English as a new academic research and studies in academic performance. They often also truly world language. Used by almost the science of learning have suggested acquire English more quickly. The very 942 million people around the world, that this approach maybe a flawed one. same studies show that overly focusing and in five of the world’s top ten largest “I have seen children who, after a few on English over a child’s birth language economies, it is considered vitally im- years in international schools, are more may end up hobbling the child’s cogni- portant in global business, diplomacy, fluent in English than in their mother tive and emotional development in the politics, and even in science. For these tongue… and are praised for it by their long term.” reasons, international schools are enjoy- parents and teachers,” says Iain Fish, Citing research on the concept ing a phenomenal rise in popularity in Head of School at European Interna- of “translanguaging,” Iain goes on to Vietnam as parents around the country, tional School Ho Chi Minh City (EIS; explain. “Language is one of the most both local and foreign, perceive English www.eishcmc.com). “However, in the fundamental parts of our learning fluency as tantamount to the success of last 10 years, there has been a growing process. We are shaped by the languages their children’s future and their ability understanding, a growing recognition that we speak. We see the world through to navigate an increasingly globalized of the value and importance of children it, express ourselves through it, learn of world. For the sake of English fluency, maintaining their mother language new ideas and concepts through it. And students are often told to leave their alongside learning English. New studies we do this most comfortably and easily mother language at home and to speak have shown that children who maintain in our mother tongue. This is doubly only English while attending interna- their mother tongue often demonstrate true for multilingual children or children

94 SEPTEMBER 2016 in their formative age. When there is a languages used within the classroom. We ‘Oh no, you can’t speak Finnish at school. focus on English over the mother tongue are educating parents on how to support It’s an English-speaking environment.’ during a child’s formative years, it comes their children at home. We are reaching The message that is coming down all the at the detriment of cognitive develop- out to the wider community to seek ways time is that your native language is not ment.” to support multilingualism. We are set- important. English is important, your Adding: “What we are saying is that ting up structures in the school programs mother language is not important. And while English is very important and and timetables to allow space for mother that is not healthy for these kids. Simply yes we should still maintain English as languages to enter into what is previously by giving the students scope to use their the primary language of instruction in an English-only environment,” claims mother languages, we increase the value international schools, we should never do Iain. of their home language. At the end of the this at the cost of sidelining the student’s On the surface, these may seem small day, we want to create an environment in mother language. A strong grasp in tweaks to the established system, but to which a child’s English acquisition grows, the mother language is the foundation some teachers and parents, these chang- their mother language is supported, and of strong lingual skills and conceptual es go against decades-old traditions. For their cognitive ability grows unhindered.” learning.” years, the English-only environment Despite years of research backing According to Iain, as international has been synonymous with interna- up the advantages of a strong mother schools all over the country receive more tional schools. Many teachers speak language foundation and the growing and more children of diverse ethnicities only English. To them, allowing mother recognition of its importance, the kind and nationalities, the issue of preserving languages in the classroom means letting of development going on at EIS is very the mother tongues becomes increasingly go of control, of not knowing what their much in its infancy in international relevant and pressing. students are up to. And yet Iain speaks schools all over the world. It requires of going beyond even that. He talks of nothing less than a sweeping cultural possibly allowing students to do research change within the international school Change is Coming for homework in their native language. setting, and cultural changes take time. This academic year, change is coming He talks of setting up individual or small “It’s a long-term thing,” says Iain. “It’s to EIS. In a bid to bring research into group sessions where outside tutors can not going to happen overnight and it’s practice and attempt a better educational be brought in to work with the teachers not going to happen all at once. Things approach, the school is setting up a cam- in interacting with the students in their will have to be managed carefully. Right paign to reconnect and embrace mother native languages. now, we are just beginning to promote languages alongside its official language “It’s a leap of faith,” he admits. these concepts with teachers, parents of instruction. “Changing one’s mindset is a difficult and students and setting things up for “Obviously we cannot upturn our thing to do. We want our teachers to big changes in the future. So far, respons- foundation of English as the language know that this is about valuing lan- es have been promising. Our end goal of instruction. However, there are many guages and the cultures that come with is to have our students graduate as true ways we can support the students and them. Too often children come into an bilinguals with, ideally, a very strong provide them with opportunities to English-speaking environment, and third language. That’s going to take maintain and appreciate their mother because they are not given the chance to commitment from the school and from language within the setting of the school. speak their native languages at school, it the parents, but, in the interest of the We are encouraging teachers to be more belittles that language. It devalues that children and their development, I think open and flexible with non-English language. You have got teachers saying, it’s an investment worth making.”

Students went to 100% alimentaire, a French shop next to the school. They tasted different products, ordered food, played games and practiced French with French locals and EIS parents who can speak the language.

OI VIETNAM 95 THE SYLLABUS EDUCATION COLUMN

What Do You Teach? Social and emotional learning, teaching the heart as well as the brain

Stacey Conner is a specialist in Special Educational Needs. She joined Saigon Star International School as Class Teacher in August 2015.

go on school trips, and never goes to birthday parties or sleepovers. She is struggling in all subjects, and the other students describe her as a little mean. She is angry because she was happy where she was before. She does not have the skills she needs to adjust when life simply is not fair. She needs resilience, adaptability and positive psycholo- gy to overcome the challenge. There are no standards to measure these. “WHAT DO YOU DO to have answers for questions about I have to have an answer so I can FOR A LIVING?” punctuation and perimeters, but I also reach them. And by an “answer,” I “I am a teacher.” have to have an answer when the child do not mean a vague blanket state- “Oh! What do you teach?” who was picked last for the dodgeball ment of comfort. When I say “answer,” This is a more complicated ques- game feels left out. I have to have an I mean concrete activities a child tion than most people realize. I have answer for the student who asks me can employ in order to process their provided instruction on many things if he did something wrong since his emotions, the emotions of others, including, but not limited to, litera- parents are getting a divorce. I even and their choices. Concrete skills. cy, mathematics, science, geography, have to have an answer for the pains- When students feel disconnected, vocational training, community skills, taking silence coming from the girl who they detach from a school’s social net- occupational therapy, speech, art, just moved here from another country. work as well as their learning. Multiple music, languages, etc. Those are only The girl picked last is struggling studies have proven when a student is subjects though, and they change immensely in mathematics in spite of in emotional distress, their academic depending on where I am teaching. her aptitude for it. She does not have performance can decline significantly. What never changes is the fact that I the coping skills she needs to work Inversely, a study from Loyola Universi- teach students—that is what I teach. effectively during group activities. She ty Chicago demonstrated that students Traditionally, educators are charged feels isolated, alone and depressed. who received explicit instruction in with providing rigorous academ- Playground rules might ensure she is SEL at schools showed an 11 percent ic instruction in order to maximize a team player, but they do not pre- increase in academic achievement. I subject-based performance for all pare her for the rules of networking know that is just a number, but imagine students. This is what we measure with she will encounter in her adult life. an 11 percent increase in your sala- assessments and chart on our data She will need fortitude, the ability to ry, in the size of your house, and even trackers during a student’s education- advocate for herself, and fearlessness your time off. Now think about that al career. What we do not measure to overcome the challenge. There are 11 percent in schools. SEL programs in our pupils nor ask of our teachers no standards to measure these. are vital to the future of education. is how they will instruct and account The boy in the middle of the divorce The world is most certainly a smaller for Social and Emotional Learning used to be the class clown with his place, and all we have to do is turn on (SEL) in their classrooms. It is not a boisterous, playful demeanor. Now the news to know that even as adults we required course credit to earn most he never raises his hand and sits by can still be at a loss for words or actions diplomas, so how can we concern himself at lunch. He is on-target, but in the wake of tragedy. As educators, ourselves with, or even justify, dedi- he should be well ahead with his gifted we must ensure the next generation is cating instructional minutes to it? mind. He has developed a healthy academically prepared, but we must The answer is because I do not just fear of failure. “Nothing ventured, also take care to teach not only the skills teach literacy from 9am-10am and nothing gained” for most of us, but they need to pick themselves back up assume a child does not need me for for him, “nothing ventured, so I can’t when they fall, but also empathy to help the next 15-minute break. Teachers do be a disappointment to anyone.” He the person next to them when they do. not stop teaching when we are on the needs tenacity, a sense of self-worth, Going back to the original question: playground for duty or at lunch or on and the ability to forgive himself and What do I teach? I teach intellectual school trips. The reason for it has noth- others to overcome the challenge. There and emotional nourishment. I teach ing to do with professional eagerness are no standards to measure these. kindness, courage and relentlessness. I or a desire to get ahead in our careers. The girl who just moved here never teach people, hopefully, to follow their The reason is not only do I have turns in homework, never wants to hearts for the benefit of their minds.

96 SEPTEMBER 2016 The List Education INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Anne Hill International School ABC International School (ABCIS) EUROPEAN International School Anne Hill International School Inspected and judged an outstanding Ho Chi Minh City School is a school for children school by British Government The EUROPEAN International School from 18 months up till 6 Inspectors (October 2013), the ABCIS Ho Chi Minh City is an IB World School years old and its curriculum is one of the few schools worldwide offering an academic and supportive incorporates the Montessori awarded this Department for Education English language education for students Method, Jolly Phonics and rating. Progress of students puts the ABCIS among aged 2-18 years. EIS is committed enrichment programs. the top 8% of schools in the world. Providing to educating students to become creative critical Classes are conducted in spacious, safe and well- education for 2-18 year olds in a supportive and thinkers and problem solvers. Students are immersed equipped classrooms with a low student-to-teacher friendly environment, it delivers a culturally adapted in a multicultural learning environment which values ratio. version of the British National Curriculum supported multilingualism. Language programmes at Outdoor facilities include a large covered playground, by Cambridge & AQA IGCSE and AS/A levels. EIS include Spanish, German, French covered and gated swimming-pool, built-in water-play Students are prepared for Universities in the UK, USA, and Vietnamese. feature, mini-trampoline, mini-golf area, tent fun area, Australia, Korea and Canada. 730 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 sandpit, and eco-garden. Foundation & Early Primary Campus: www.eishcmc.com “Learning is a journey, not a race.” 4, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, 33 Giang Van Minh, An Phu Ward, HCMC Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, HCMC School ages: 18 months to 6 years old Primary & Secondary Campus: Website: annehill.school 2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Phone: +84 906 846 939, +848 3740 4019 Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, HCMC [email protected] 5431 1833-34-35-36 [email protected] www.theabcis.com

International School Saigon Star The American School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) International School The American School (TAS) is Vietnam’s only international Saigon Star is a student an international school that has school offering a U.S. curriculum focused international been accredited by the Western for children 18 months to 11 school offering a high quality, first class education. Association of Schools and years old within a 100% English Specialising in the British National Curriculum, all Colleges (WASC), representing 20 nationalities. TAS language environment. With a library containing over of the class teachers hold an international teaching provides an American-based curriculum with rigorous 13,500 English books and more than 60% of students qualification. In our Early Years programme, a performance standards and a variety of academic achieving above grade level English, ISSP graduates Montessori specialist works closely with the offerings including Advanced Placement courses, are well prepared for secondary school at ISHCMC or mainclass teachers to ensure a high rate of university credit courses through our partnership with ISHCMC – American Academy. progress and attainment. The school also provides Missouri State University, and an Intensive ESL Program 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh specialists for children requiring for English Language Learners. +84 (8) 2222 7788/99 additional ESL support. 177A, 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 [email protected] Residential Area No.5, 3519 2223 / 0903 952 223 www.issp.edu.vn Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 [email protected] 3742 STAR / 3742 7827 www.tas.edu.vn www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn

OI VIETNAM 97 The International School The International School Renaissance International School Saigon Ho Chi Minh City – American Renaissance is an International British School offering Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC) the National Curriculum for England complemented by ISHCMC is HCMC’s most established Academy the International Primary Curriculum (IPC), Cambridge international school and first IB ISHCMC – American Academy is a IGCSE and the International Baccalaureate. The school World School authorized to teach all U.S. curriculum secondary school, has made a conscious decision to limit numbers and 3 International Baccalaureate programs for students preparing students aged 11 to 18 keep class sizes small to ensure each pupil is offered 2 to 18 years old. ISHCMC is excited to launch a new years old for success at universities an education tailored to meet their individual learning secondary campus in 2017, featuring Vietnam’s first worldwide. Early university credits, through SUPA and needs. It’s a family school providing first-class facilities Innovation Center, a 350-seat professional theater, AP courses, a 1:1 University Counseling Program, and including a 350- seats theater, swimming pools, mini- NBA-sized basketball courts, 25m – 8 lane competitive an extensive EAL program sets our graduates on the pool, drama rooms, gymnasium, IT labs, music and swimming pool and sports field. road to success with 100% acceptance rate and U.S. $1 drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch. 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 million scholarship fund to overseas universities. www.renaissance.edu.vn +84 (8) 3898 9100 16 Vo Truong Toan, D2 [email protected] +84 (8) 3898 9100 Saigon South International School www.ishcmc.com [email protected] Founded in 1997, Saigon South International www.aavn.edu.vn School seeks to accommodate an increasing need for American education for both local residents and expatriate families. SSIS enrolls over 850 students in Early Childhood – Grade 12 from over thirty-three countries in a spacious six-hectare, well-equipped campus. www.ssis.edu.vn Also... The Montessori International School of Vietnam For children 6 months to 9 years old. A registered Australian International School (AIS) British International School (BIS) member of the American Montessori Society. The Australian International School is an IB World Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS Montessori uses an internationally recognized School with three world class campuses in District provides a British style curriculum for an international educational method which focuses on fostering the 2, HCMC, offering an international education from student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create a kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with sense of self and individuality through an encouraging Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council and learning environment. Available are Extra-curricular (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP). of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS Activities, Summer camp and immersion programs in Xi Campus (Kindergarten) is the largest international school in Vietnam. Vietnamese, French and Mandarin. www.aisvietnam.com www.bisvietnam.com www.montessori.edu.vn

98 SEPTEMBER 2016

“MUSIC IS TO THE SOUL WHAT WORDS ARE TO THE MIND.” MODEST MOUSE

www.aisvietnam.com/10thanniversary [email protected] +84 8 3742 4040 CELEBRATING YEARS OF ACADEMIC EXCELLENCE