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Visit Cochise Country Where Even JOHNNY REB Got a Taste of Apache Vengeance

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Visit Cochise Country Where Even JOHNNY REB Got a Taste of Apache Vengeance Backpack a Dizzying Descent to the Colorado River arizonahighways.com SEPTEMBER 2004 Visit Cochise Country Where Even JOHNNY REB Got a Taste of Apache Vengeance Drop in on Kingman A Family Place view the Little Colorado River Primeval Splendor Boy-artist Phenom of the Navajos {also inside} SEPTEMBER 2004 46 DESTINATION S an Jose de Tumacacori Mission Some 300 years ago, the mission was a “community” amid turmoil and danger in a primitive land, now southern Arizona. 42 BACK ROAD ADVENTURE COVER/HISTORY PORTFOLIO 34 Northwest of Prescott, a winding route takes visitors to Ambushed by Apaches 20 A Cool, Moist Mountain Place remnants of classic ranch country around Camp Wood. In 1862, Confederate soldiers may have overreached A photographer finds primeval beauty and tranquility 48 HIKE OF THE MONTH for territory into Arizona, where some fell during a along the West Fork of the Little Colorado River. A pleasant journey in the Huachuca Mountains turns a surprise attack by Indians at Dragoon Springs. rattlesnake encounter into a happy-go-lucky memory. FOCUS ON NATURE 2 LETTERS & E-MAIL Rider Navajo Indian ADVENTURE 32 Grand Canyon Canyon Reservation 6 Tracking the Tiger Rattlesnake 3 TAKING THE National Park Rim-to-River Trek Reclusive most of the time, this Sonoran Desert OFF-RAMP Camp Two hardy Grand Canyon backpackers pick their way species gets all worked up and on the move when it’s KINGMAN 40 HUMOR Wood through rocky and difficult Rider Canyon to reach an time to find a mate. West Fork of the isolated, historic spot on the Colorado River. Little Colorado River 41 ALONG THE WAY S O N O Blue River Teaching at a one-room R A PHOENIX N school on the Blue River D Saguaro PEOPLE ES TUCSON led to practical jokes, ERT National Park 28 a skunk episode and San Jose de Dragoon A Boy and His Art Tumacacori Mission Springs fond memories. Huachuca Dustin Rockmen, a 12-year-old Navajo painter, makes Mountains artistic statements in a unique way, using his disability POINTS OF INTEREST for creative expression. FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE {more stories online} 14 CITIES & TOWNS at arizonahighways.com A Visit With Kingman GENE PERRET’S WIT STOP Our writer casts himself as the cowboy hero in his first Wedged among austere mountains, this history-filled Western novel, but his wife-editor is skeptical. desert municipality’s dry landscape has a secret — life-giving springs — not to mention some interesting ONLINE EXTRA resident characters. Guru of Canyon Tourism John Hance was practically the father of Grand Canyon visitation, and many famous sites bear his name today. WEEKEND GETAWAY Grand Canyon Most visitors see the Grand Canyon from the South and North rims. The Hualapai Indian land offers another point of view — from the less-traveled west side. [THIS PAGE] The West Fork of the Little Colorado River meanders EXPERIENCE ARIZONA past the fallen skeletons of A listing of major events in the state is available online. streamside pine trees in this view near the headwaters on the flanks of 11,403-foot Baldy Peak in the Mount Baldy Wilderness. For more photos of this high mountain arizona highways on television waterway, see the portfolio on { } page 20. BRUCE GRIFFIN Watch for this independently produced television show inspired [FRONT COVER] In a scene virtually by Arizona Highways magazine. The weekly half-hour show airs unchanged since Cochise and his in Phoenix, Tucson and Flagstaff in both English and Spanish. Chiricahua Apache band roamed Robin Sewell, a veteran television news anchor and the area, sunset lights a soaptree yucca and the grasslands at the reporter, hosts the show. foot of the western Dragoon English show times: 6:30 P.M. Saturdays on Channel 12 Mountains. DAVID MUENCH in Phoenix and on Channel 2 in Flagstaff, and at 4:30 P.M. [BACK COVER] Sycamore, velvet ash Sundays on Channel 9 in Tucson. and cottonwood trees line rocky The show airs in Spanish on Channel 33 in Phoenix, Channel Cochise Stronghold Canyon East in the Dragoon Mountains. 52 in Tucson and Channel 13 in Flagstaff. Check the stations’ JACK DYKINGA listings for times. {letters & e-mail} Arizona Oddities, Attractions and Pleasures {taking the off- ramp } SEPTEMBER 2004 VOL. 80, NO. 9 Publisher WIN HOLDEN Editor ROBERT J. EARLY Back Road Across Arizona the rustlers’ vehicle over many miles of dirt roads Senior Editor BETH DEVENY cobalt blue accents, the buildings of THIS MONTH IN Managing Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN Your article, “Crossing Arizona on Back Roads,” (unique tires, not much traffic) and found the Research Editor MARY PRATT the hotel reflect the Spanish Editorial Administrator CONNIE BOCH ARIZONA (April ’04) by Charles Bowden and Jack Dykinga is remains of the rustled steer in the bottom of an Administrative Assistant NIKKI KIMBEL Colonial Revival style popular in one of the best. We all know that Dykinga takes abandoned mine shaft several miles from the the Southwest. Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER beautiful pictures, and he certainly did not let us Planet Ranch. Photography Editor RICHARD MAACK Greenway wanted to build a 1872A Prescott down in this issue. They then followed the “trail” to a small ranch Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY hotel where her guests, including newspaper But my reason for writing is to compliment house of two brothers, employees at the Planet Deputy Art Director BILLIE JO BISHOP the likes of Clark Gable, Eleanor urges an end to Art Assistant PAULY HELLER an exodus of Bowden for a fabulous article. I read the whole Ranch. They checked the flatbed truck parked near Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY Roosevelt, John D. Rockefeller and Arizonans article with interest, but when I got to the last the house and found the unique tire tread, plus the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, fleeing the Arizona Highways Books Territory for three paragraphs, for some reason I had tears in my bovine hair that ultimately matched that of the WitWorks® Books could enjoy “privacy, quiet and riches in the eyes. I think it was because of the poetry with stolen steer. Editor BOB ALBANO sunshine” — three things the silver mines of Associate Editor EVELYN HOWELL Sonora, which this man writes. No one can describe a place As they approached the house, they noticed the Associate Editor PK PERKIN MCMAHON luxurious Arizona Inn offers in Mexico. or a situation any better. dogs that were normally running free outside were Production Director CINDY MACKEY abundance. Judith Schooler, Tucson locked inside the house behind a screen door and Production Coordinator KIM ENSENBERGER To read more about the inn and Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON were scratching frantically to get out. A deputy Webmaster VICKY SNOW other buildings that enliven 1879The Los Angeles Put a poet and an artist together on the back roads approached the house and, during a conversation Arizona’s Heritage in Architecture Arizona’s urban and rural Express Circulation Director HOLLY CARNAHAN newspaper says of Arizona, and the result is the beautiful language with one of the occupants, managed to let the dogs Finance Director ROBERT M. STEELE hen Isabella Selmes a hotel,” says Greenway’s landscape, pick up a new travel about Tucson’s and stunning photography of Charles Bowden and slip out. The dogs immediately raced to the dry Greenway, Arizona’s first granddaughter, Patty Doar. “So guide by Ann Patterson and Mark festival: “Here Fulfillment Director VALERIE J. BECKETT nightly are Jack Dykinga. Having been on some Arizona back riverbed nearby where they began digging in the U.S. congresswoman she did.” Vinson, Landmark Buildings: gathered Information Technology Manager W roads with my sons and grandsons, my memo- sand and soon uncovered several quarters of beef CINDY BORMANIS (1933-36), started a furniture Standing at 2200 E. Elm St., Arizona’s Architectural Heritage, together one to two thousand ries and emotions were stirred and expressed so that had been buried there in the cool, damp sand FOR CUSTOMER INQUIRIES factory for disabled World War I 3 miles from downtown Tucson, published by Arizona Highways people of all wonderfully. to keep from spoiling. A rifle was found under the OR TO ORDER BY PHONE: veterans, she suddenly owned more the 86-room Arizona Inn opened in Books. The volume highlights 45 classes, nations and colors who Jane Sylvester, Whidbey Island, WA front porch of the house, which was the source of Call toll-free: (800) 543-5432 tables and chairs than she knew 1931 and has remained largely of the state’s most arresting In the Phoenix area or outside the U.S., walk, gamble, the bullet that killed the steer. Call (602) 712-2000 what to do with. unchanged since. Constructed of edifices. To order, call toll-free drink, dance Charles Bowden’s “Crossing Arizona on Back Roads” The two brothers were prosecuted for cattle Or visit us online at: “Someone told my grandmother fired clay brick, covered with (800) 543-5432 or visit and howl like a arizonahighways.com pack of left me breathless. His vivid descriptions of the rustling (grand theft). The exhibits were she had enough furniture to build stucco and painted rosy pink with arizonahighways.com. coyotes For Corporate or Trade Sales: .” intricate beauty of each detail of his journey were fascinating, including one of the beef quarters Sales Manager HELEN THOMPSON so clear that one could almost smell and taste the (refrigerated) and the hide that matched up. The Call (602) 712-2050 flavor of what he experienced. Bowden’s ability to jury found the brothers guilty, but the conviction of E-MAIL “LETTERS TO THE EDITOR”: 1898An elderly Nogales woman paint a living picture for the reader just filled my one of the brothers was overturned by the judge for [email protected] Forgotten Land Regular Mail: drowns in her soul with delight.
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